If you’re ready to up your small business game, stay tuned as I share with you how to craft gorgeous newsletters that subscribers will WANT to read, as well as a review and overview of how I use it. This post has been sponsored by Flodesk and contains affiliate links. It is a service that I personally use and pay for monthly!

Over the course of running this blog, I’ve built up an email list of over 90,000 subscribers that is now a core part of my business. Thanks to the generosity of Flodesk, my current email marketing platform that I’ve been with for a few years, I am now able to share some email marketing tips for creative entrepreneurs.

Whether you run a craft business, a blog, or any other type of small businesses, I’m excited to share with you why I’m still with it (my longest sticking with any newsletter service) as well as some tips.

Before we start, just a heads up: if you use my code MOMSANDCRAFTERS you get 25% off your first year of Flodesk!

Why your business NEEDS a GOOD email list

As a fellow creative, it can be so hard to reach people. We’re expected to be everywhere at once. And just when we think we made it big on a platform, the algorithms change.

The truth is that social media relies on virality. What small businesses need is consistency. Consistent cash flow. Consistent traffic. And while viral sellouts can be really cool, they are often unsustainable, misleading, and unreliable.

That is why I will swear up and down by having a solid email list. While your email list can be variable with reach, it does not depend on virality. It is a stable foundation to any business when powered by a reliable email marketing platform.

Why I’m using Flodesk since 2020 – and not planning on switching

Yes, I’ve been using Flodesk since 2020! Before that I used MailChimp and CovertKit for a couple of years each. I’ve been with Flodesk for the longest, and I hope this shines some light on why.

My experience switching

When I was first building up my email list with other services, I was told that my emails need to be “plain text”. That means, no frills bells or whistles. The truth is, as a creative, that is just the wrong approach for me. My readers are creatives too. They need pretty.

When I switched to Flodesk, I was amazed at how easy it was to create gorgeous email designs with the drag and drop builder and easy to use interface. But I was concerned with reach.

However, what I found was that as soon as I verified my domain (which was easy using their instructions) my reach only improved.

My newsletter model is mostly free printable crafts that readers download. I found that the forms were so easy to customize to look great on my website. My emails still mostly use the plain text format but within a pretty framework.

And when I do want to create a much nicer “specialty” newsletter I can do that too, within minutes, thanks to Flodesk’s beautiful templates and email templates.

Favorite features

There are so many cool features to Flodesk, and they’re constantly evolving. I’m going to highlight a few of my favorites.

Besides the extremely clean aesthetic overall, the uncluttered design and feel that keeps my scattered brain focused, here are some fabulous features.

Email marketing

There are so many email marketing tools within Flodesk. Here are a few favorites:

• Link Actions – when a reader clicks on a link I can add or remove them from a segment based on that (Flodesk’s Link Actions make this seamless). I use that to segment my readers based on craft interest with excellent segmentation capabilities, so that I know which ones like crochet, which ones prefer paper crafts, and which ones enjoy basically every craft I share.

• Integrations – Since I also use services like Grow, integrations make things work seamlessly.
• Automations – Flodesk features visual workflows that give you the ability to have automated workflows, all arranged in a very visual flowchart. This is a set-up-and-go strategy to work harder rather than smarter.
• Branding and Favorites – There are many tools to help assemble beautiful emails quickly, including branding features, the ability to save styles, and the ability to save blocks to favorites.

I’ll be sharing actual email marketing tips using these tools shortly.

Flodesk Checkouts

While I was already a Flodesk customer, they started offering Flodesk Checkouts. I was unsure about it but decided to give it a go, and yes, it’s at least paid for itself. It’s perfect for e commerce businesses selling digital products like subscriptions, digital products, freebies, services, courses, and more.

Some of my favorite features are:

• You have a tabbed view of the sales page, the product page, and the product delivery. Instead of having to set up each thing individually, it’s all in one tabbed view.

• Super fast transition for customers, one of the main reasons I use Flodesk Checkout for larger products that require more of a sales page to showcase them is to ease the customer’s workflow for better conversions. While I CAN create a landing page on my blog and link it to an e-shop listing, each time the page needs to load I risk losing the customer. Flodesk Checkout moves really seamlessly through the process.
• Plug-and-go templates, each sales page is really ready to go, including the post-sale download page. Just plug in the new info.
• Customization – There’s lots of low-tech, highly visual customization that can be done.
• Upsells, it also seamlessly integrates upsells (that is, “add-ons” that can be included in a product). On my e-shop I never converted upsells, no one actually bought them. On Flodesk Checkout, people often do if it’s planned to work well with the initial offer.

Practically Speaking: How I use Flodesk + Email Marketing Tips for Creatives

I use Flodesk almost daily, whether it’s setting up a form, sending out a newsletter, or offering a new bundled listing.

I’ll share below how I PERSONALLY use it but also some additional ideas for different business models using this email marketing platform.

Getting Subscribers

People always ask me how I get subscribers and there are two aspects to it: getting people to sign up for a newsletter, and the technical part of it.

Opt-in Incentives

Hands down the most effective way to get people to agree to have you in their inbox is to offer them some value in exchange! My personal strategy is by offering free downloads. Since I sell lots of templates in my Etsy and other ecommerce shops, I’m offering real value when I share something that’s free.

Email-blocking craft templates also serves as a copyright and hotlink protection to protect my intellectual property (and is in fact why I first started doing this.)

But what if you’re not a blogger like me? The trick is to offer something that directly solves the problems of your target subscriber.

Here are some more ideas for opt-in incentives:

• For those who own your own ecommerce site, consider a pop-up form with a small discount for those who join. You’ll see many retailers do this and it’s highly effective. In fact, it’s the reason I am personally on so many email lists! It allows you to retarget those who have been seriously considering buying (they wouldn’t have joined your list for a discount if they weren’t already thinking about it).
• For Etsy shop owners of digital products, offering a free sampling of what you might have in your shop. If you sell crochet patterns, offer one for free. This should be a good one but not a top seller; in fact, go for something relatively simple. I personally have craft templates and coloring pages as my incentive.
• For Etsy shop owners of physical products, while you CAN take the approach of a shop discount, it’s not as effective when you can’t just have a pop up on the site when people are already shopping. You can run giveaways via social media or advertising to encourage sign-ups.
• Overall, giveaways are a good strategy that I’ve used in the past as well. The trick is to offer things that aren’t universal; rather, those that are very specific to your product line or business.

Signup Forms and Landing Pages

Now let’s talk about the technical aspect: how people can sign up. Flodesk offers different types of sign up forms and landing pages.

The landing pages are really a key component here. For those who don’t have a dedicated site, having the ability to build a nice landing page helps you avoid all those technical details.

You can use both standard form pages or Checkouts to deliver a free download. Checkouts is ideal for higher-value offerings where you want to share more details about it. For on-site discounts, a pop-up is very effective.

Flodesk’s form styles include:

• Link in Bio (no need to pay for a separate service!) You can see mine here.

• Popups – my favorite for ecommerce discount opt-ins
• Inline – what I typically use for free templates on craft tutorials

• Full Page – this is like a mini landing page. I’ve also used it as a shorter opt-in for a free offering that isn’t necessarily attached to a blog post. It’s good to have just to refer people to a “sign up here” page. See mine here.
• Video Popup or Full Page – These are great for webinar offerings or to create a person-to-person message encouraging people to join.
• Spinner – Great for ecommerce – and you can do both a discount and a giveaway opt-in simultaneously.
• Countdown – for limited time or timed offerings. These create a sense of urgency that encourage signups.

There are so many options and each one is so easy to set up because of Flodesk’s plug-and-go options.

After you set up a form, you can choose from a “thank you” note, or direct subscribers to a specific page.

You’re previewing the form as you design it – no coding skills needed. Here’s what it looks like as I design it on the backend:

And here’s what it looks like on my site:

Crafting Gorgeous Newsletters

Of course, there’s the ability to craft newsletters – but again, with plug and go templates from Flodesk.

I send out newsletters every time I publish a new post. I also send out some seasonal updates. Since I share content in many different categories, I segment my readers based on which forms they signed up with, and when I send broader seasonal updates to larger parts of my list, I can also further segment them based on which posts they click.

So if I have someone sign up for an adult coloring page, I’ll send them adult coloring page updates. But when I send my winter newsletter and they click on a different paper craft, I can segment them as also interested in paper crafts.

Flodesk’s templates are actually sorted by goal of the email – not by style. I think that’s pretty cool. Categories include “share news, welcome, inspire, say thanks, make money…” I stick to plain text for my very content-focused business, but I also do add some visuals. I suggest using A/B testing on subject lines or visuals, by sending to different segments, to optimize open rates and engagement.

They have gorgeous signature options, and I always have an embed of my Instagram account at the bottom. I also use their buttons to allow those who don’t really want to read to easily find my post. I add things like this to my favorites and styles to let me craft newsletters quicker.

I set my brand colors as favorites so that I can stay consistent, and things like button styles, font styles can be saved to favorites to further streamline the newsletter creation process – even when designing from scratch.

The email creation works with a block-based format. Blocks include ecommerce embeds, countdowns, polls (which can be used for segmentation) and more.

I can keep on talking about how to use Flodesk’s email features for days but I’ll leave you to experiment more for yourself! It’s a standout email marketing platform for creative businesses.

Automation

An extremely powerful way to use Flodesk and in general to use email marketing for creative businesses is with automation. It’s called working smarter not harder.

Flodesk’s workflow automations are their automation tools. Once again, they have templates for delivering a freebie, re-engagement, abandoned carts, post-purchase, event follow-up and so much more. These automated workflows can power email sequences to deliver free downloads, onboard new subscribers and let them learn about your brand, or even remind them with the abandoned cart feature, which is great for improving sales in e commerce businesses.

One of the most powerful tools for sellers is the “abandoned cart” feature. This reminds potential buyers that they haven’t purchased yet, and offers an additional opportunity to get them to seal the deal with a coupon code. Flodesk’s seamless Shopify, Wix, and ThriveCart integration makes this even easier to set up even if you’re not using Checkouts.

It can also be used to let new subscribers learn about your brand and warm up to it a bit before starting to sell to them. And I use it a lot to deliver free downloads.

Using Checkouts for Bundle Offerings

I always found building sales pages for my digital product bundles to be SUCH a tedious task.

I like to bundle some of my digital products – offering it at a steep discount for a “buy them all” type of bundle on a specific topic. This is a win-win: it helps me convert larger sales than the small digital sales offer, and it allows those who use these crafts regularly an easy one-and-done download for big value.

However, to really educate potential customers on what they’re buying, I provide a detailed landing page with all the offerings. Creating this has always been a bane in the side of my existence – something I’d spend a fortune hiring out for subpar results.

Flodesk Checkouts solved that for me, and now that’s how I always sell my bundles. It’s really easy to set up and I’m able to offer more of my digital products bundled because of that.

It’s also a tool I plan to use in the future for a super easy subscription setup. Again, the logistics of setting it up is what has stopped me from creating this resource, and with Flodesk Checkouts it’s just so much easier.

How to Save while using Flodesk (Exclusive Discount Code)

Newsletters are one of those tools that should pay for themselves. However, if you’re starting out, Flodesk pricing offers an affordable way to get going, and you may need a little help at first.

The good news is that if you use my code MOMSANDCRAFTERS you get 25% off your first year of Flodesk!

You’ll find that Flodesk is a really valuable email marketing platform. It’s one thing to get a customer or reader for the first time. Once you have a person’s eyes and ears, keeping them is an efficient way to market. In fact, most people don’t purchase something until it’s familiar, that is, until they’ve heard of or seen it three times.

Having a newsletter allows you to remarket to the same people WITHOUT additional ad spend. But Flodesk also has tools to retain those who don’t actually sign up but just visit your built-in sales pages using Meta Pixel for retargeting.

So if you’re ready to easily craft beautiful business emails, whether you’re a YouTuber or blogger, a craft seller with your own site, an Etsy seller, or any creative entrepreneur, go ahead and give it a go!

I have a feeling that like me, you’ll be happy you did, especially as the algorithms change their mind once again.

Don’t forget to use my code MOMSANDCRAFTERS to get 25% off your first year!

The post How to Craft Gorgeous Newsletters – Flodesk Review appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking into getting a laser engraver, you’ll find my thorough review of the LaserPecker LP5 laser engraver helpful! When you’re done, go ahead and try these fun wood and acrylic laser earrings. This post contains affiliate links.

Getting your first (or second, or third) laser engraver can be intimidating. When LaserPecker reached out to me to review their LP5 laser engraver, I decided that it’s a great way to help you approach this purchase with a bit more clarity.

They did send me a sample to review. Because I do not currently need another one with these specs, and so you can rest assured that my review is completely honest. In fact, when they reached out, I agreed to review it on the condition of complete and total transparency and honesty, and they agreed.

Below I’ll be sharing everything you need to know about the LaserPecker LP5 before purchasing, so that you can make an educated decision to purchase or not to.

I’m reviewing it from the perspective of someone who has some experience with laser engravers but wouldn’t be classified as a “pro” – so I’ll be able to evaluate usability from closer to your own skill level if you’re relatively new or an emerging laserengraver.

And one final note before I begin reviewing: all links to LaserPecker in this post ARE affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase, I ask that you do so through my link. I use lots of material while testing (including those I purchase myself, and pricey items too), and spend many many hours away from other work doing so. I also disable in-post ads on long reviews like this one, so your reading experience is smoother. Purchasing through my affiliate links is the only real compensation I get for this post, helps support my kids’ education, and costs you nothing extra. It is very much appreciated!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

About the LaserPecker LP5

Technical Specs – Know what you’re purchasing

The LaserPecker LP5 is a 20 Watt Diode and 20 Watt Fiber laser engraver. Those are fabulous, effective specs for a multi-purpose laser engraver.

It is a compact laser engraver, with some cutting capability. It is a galvo laser. That means that the laser is moved around via mirrors (and not physically). This typically results in much faster speeds – and a slight angle for thick cuts that are not in the center. This is the same across all galvo lasers.

Here’s a quick list of specs:

• Dual laser sources:
  • 20 Watt (Blue) Diode Laser (≈ 450 nm): this is ideal for materials like wood, black acrylic, leather (PU or real), slate, ceramic, paper, cork, and silicone.
  • 20 Watt Fiber Laser (≈ 1064 nm) – this is for metals, such as stainless steel, aluminum, brass, titanium, silver, platinum, and engraving plastics. This also performs really well on slate.
• Maximum working speed: up to 10,000 mm/s – thanks to the Galvo laser
• Cutting depth:
  • Diode: up to 20 mm Basswood, 15 mm black acrylic
  • Fiber: up to 1 mm brass, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium sheets
• Engraving Area:
  • Basic engraving area (ellipse): 120 × 160 mm (around 4.7×6.3 inches)
  • Square engraving area: 100 × 100 mm (3.9×3.9 inches)

The cutting and engraving area is expandable with a slide extension (which I have not tested)

• Laser spot size:
  • Diode: 0.08 × 0.1 mm
  • Fiber: 0.06 × 0.06 mm
• Positioning and motion accuracy: 0.0027 mm
• Image resolution options: 1K / 2K / 4K / 8K
• Software support: LaserPecker Design Space (mobile app and PC), and LightBurn (Diode only)
• Supported file formats:
  • PC: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG, DXF, etc.
  • Mobile: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG
• Connection methods: USB and Wi-Fi
• Supported operating systems:
  • Mobile: iOS 9.0+ (or 13.0+ per one page), Android 7.0+
  • Desktop: Windows 10+, macOS 10.15+
• Dimensions:
  • Laser Unit: 255 × 98 × 183 mm / 10.04 × 3.86 × 7.21 in
  • Electric Stand: 198 × 286 × 323 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
  • Conical Protective Cover: 167 × 231 × 160 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
• Weight:
  • Laser unit: 3.36 kg / 7.41 lb
  • Electric stand: 2.28 kg / 5.03 lb
  • Protective cover: 0.38 kg / 0.84 lb
  • Total: ~6.02 kg / 13.27 lb
• Preview Modes: Offers live preview options: Rectangle Preview, Outline Preview, and Center Point Preview
• Optional Accessories:
  • Slide Extension (expands working area)
  • Rotary Extension (engravable cylinders — 1 mm to 145 mm diameter)
  • Air Purifier
  • Safety Enclosure (with camera – reviewed below)

Unboxing – What you get

In the box, you get everything you need to get started including:

• The laser head – a separate unit that can needs to be supported in one of these ways:
  • With the cone attached, held against an object
  • On the stand
  • On the safety enclosure
• The stand base
• The stand
• A cone enclosure
• Manual
• Connection cables
• Ventilation ducts/connectors
• A starter material packet
• Safety goggles (win!)
• A toolkit in a case (win!)
• Positioning brackets with screws to use in the threaded base
• A cutting plate
• A USB drive

Feature rundown

The LaserPecker LP5 has loads of features, which I’ll outline here. This is not an exhaustive list – it’s a focus on the features I’ve been evaluating.

• Various engraving options – This is a PORTABLE laser engraver, which means you have a handheld unit that you can use anywhere. To make it doable, it has a cone attachment that connects around the laser head. Lean it on something and you can engrave. Or, use the stand, with the base for a desktop setup. You can also use it with larger items as it’s not “self-contained” – so there’s no limit on object size to engrave, just on engrave area. There’s also a full enclosure which is limited in size. I’ll review that separately below.
• Threaded base with brackets – You can easily position items for repeat engraving using the L brackets that are included.
• Up down physical buttons on the stand allow you to focus easily. Long press and it continues going, eliminating the need for repeated pressing.
• Engraving directly from USB – You will go through your device to run the engrave, but this allows for more fast and efficient engraving and reduces disconnect.
• Emboss, engrave, cut modes – You can deep emboss, engrave, score, or cut various materials.
• Easy carry handle – It features a handle on the top for easy transport and portability. Overall, the structure is one that’s easy to move around.
• Magnetic safety shield – You can remove the orange safety shield on the cone to give you access to the item you’re engraving, move it around. It is attached with strong magnets and comes on and off easily.
• Easy to remove side vent allows you easy access for cleaning and maintenance.

Software Overview

The brand software of LaserPecker is called LaserPecker Design Space. It is kind of a “known fact” that their software kind of lags behind others in user-friendliness.

You can use LightBurn with the LP5, however, only with the diode laser.

I found LaserPecker Design Space quite cumbersome to use, but also found that it had some features that were beneficial. For starters, they do have good image conversion features, especially for beginners. And while their design tools aren’t advanced, if you’re designing off-app (like me for the most part) that doesn’t matter.

What I did find most cumbersome was the whole panel where you work the settings. The workflow there isn’t very efficient, you can’t move around your artwork while framing, you have tabs that should always show but sometimes don’t… You get used to it after a number of uses.

One BIG advantage is that they do have an extensive clipart library.

In a nutshell: there is a learning curve, there aren’t good presets, but it’s definitely more than workable, can do what you need, and you WILL learn.

LaserPecker LP5 Review and Analysis of the Enclosure

What is the enclosure?

The enclosure is a full standalone unit that completely replaces the stand. You attach the laser head with the handle to the top opening, reconnect all those little cables, the exhaust, and then use it as is. It’s a self-contained unit that totally seals it off and has its own base that moves up and down.

Enclosure features

One of the biggest perks of the enclosure is that it allows your work to be fully enclosed – with no light leak. While the main unit has a cone cover, it moves up and down with the laser head, so you usually have a bit of a gap with light leakage there.

The enclosure is… fully enclosed. It has magnetic front and back doors so that you can engrave something longer – but then it’s not fully enclosed. It does have a stop feature that pauses engraving if the door is opened in middle.

The enclosure also adds a camera feature to the mix so you can preview your work area and blank from the screen.

More features/quick specs:

• Dimensions: 310 × 350 × 345mm / 12.20 × 13.78 × 13.58 in
• Weight: 8.9kg / 19.62 lb
• Automatic fill for engraving multiple items
• Optimal working area is the same – as it’s dependent on the laser output.

Enclosure vs. no enclosure

So do you want to use the enclosure or not?

The biggest advantage of the enclosure as far as I’m concerned is that it’s just so much easier to position your design using the camera. I did run into some hiccups with it and needed to calibrate it a few times before getting it right, and once again, the software for this is not intuitive. But once I had it set up, it was so much easier.

It also contains the fumes better and makes the air purification more effective, and of course offers no light leakage.

The biggest disadvantage of using it with the enclosure is that it’s just not compact that way. One of the biggest perks overall of the LP5 (which I will highlight below) is its compact size. It truly allows it to stand out in the market. You lose that with the enclosure. It turns it more into a full-sized laser engraver BUT you sill have the portability.

If you tend to use your laser engraver on your desktop but want the possibility to move it around, the enclosure is still a really cool optional feature to have.

Overall LaserPecker LP5 Review

This section of the LaserPecker LP5 review is designed simply to show you what I personally liked or didn’t like about it. When choosing a laser engraver, focus on your own needs, how much the pros meet those, and to what degree the cons don’t contradict your needs.

Pros of the LaserPecker LP5

• Compact size – is perfect for smaller spaces. Its footprint is very small and it can simply sit on a tiny corner of a desk.
• Portable – It’s not only small, it’s also lightweight and easy to transport with the carry handle. That means that for lighter use, it can even be stored up on a shelf, brought to markets…
• Enclosure – This fully enclosed zero light leak setup allows me to move around the room and do other things during longer runtimes without annoying goggles.
• Large item engraving – Since it can be placed on any surface, it can be used to engrave logos on handmade furniture, addresses on wall bricks, or anything anywhere really – as long as you can vent it and power it on. There is only an engraving size limit, no object/surface size limit.
• Individual previews – A more obscure feature that I loved that is not to be taken for granted is the fact that it shows each element as its own preview when you preview your engrave. That means that if you are engraving ten pens with different names, each one will show as a separate rectangle – not as one long rectangle. That allows me to position it for better engraving.
• Extremely accurate engraving with fine detail
• Galvo laser gives extremely high speeds – fabulous for batch processing, despite working area limits.
• Sturdy and solid – Its compact size and relatively light weight does not come at the cost of feeling cheep. It is a solid, metal piece and has weight to it – though a very manageable weight.
• Outline preview – the light preview can show a rectangle or outline. The outline mode is very stable and easy to use.
• Dual lasers open up a world of possibilities – and both have decent entry-level power. There are so many things this can engrave that it makes it a perfect machine for those who aren’t looking to set up a huge workshop with dedicated machines for each material type.

Cons of the LaserPecker LP5

• No adjustments in preview – when using the light preview feature, you can’t adjust your design. I do personally use that feature a lot but keep in mind that you CAN adjust your material.
• No curve map – I’d love to see them add software capabilities for curved surface engraving on the enclosure! It has a camera so that would be a great addition. Now, you’d need to use the rotary, which I haven’t tried personally, to do a tumbler.
• Software learning curve – As I mentioned above, the software is not very intuitive and has a steep learning curve, and some quirks.
• No good material settings library – While you’ll typically want to run your own material tests for things you plan to engrave and cut, a material settings library is a very good jumpstart. I found LaserPecker’s to be lacking and hard to understand. I recommend keeping your own spreadsheet, and finding starting points in their project library and Facebook groups.
• Slow file transfer – Unless you’re working from the USB, it sends each item individually – and is so slow. You need to combine every element on the design into one shape to enhance speed.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Material Tests and Results

When it comes to writing a laser engraver review, material tests are so helpful in indicating what you can or can’t do with your machine, and what it’ll take to get each material done, how well it performs, etc. It’s a great way to analyze whether a machine is right for you.

But it comes with a caveat: it’s endless. When working on this LaserPecker LP5 review, my goal was to get a good overview and sampling. If you want to know a specific material, feel free to drop a comment or email me and I’m happy to guide you on it!

Meanwhile, I tried my own top used materials and shared the results of some gifts I’m making too, and things I’m personalizing for my own kids.

Wood Engraving and Cutting

The LaserPecker LP5 can engrave different types of wood and can cut up to 20mm basswood.

Bamboo Pens (Diode engraving)

I love engraving these bamboo pens for gifts for everyone – counselors, teachers, family. They are also a very hot seller.

They engraved nicely and quicky, with the basic unevenness that you’ll pretty much always find in bamboo engravings. The trick is to keep the design small enough that it doesn’t curve and fade on the edges.

Wood Keychains (Diode engraving)

This is another blank that engraves beautifully. It’s easy to get a nice, deep engrave on these and they make fun swag and handouts. I engraved my husband’s logo on these.

Basswood Plywood (Diode engraving and cutting)

I tested the 3mm basswood plywood that came with the sample pack by engraving my own logo and cutting out a circle around it. The fine detail on this isn’t the greatest because my logo doesn’t scale well (note to the designer – me!) However, it engraved easily and quickly. It cut well as well – I personally prefer to do a few passes at higher speeds and get very little charring that way.

Metal Engraving, Deep Embossing and Cutting

Since I’m a jewelry designer, and the 20 watt fiber laser is a standout feature on the LP5, I focused a lot of my material tests for my LaserPecker LP5 review around metal.

It performed as expected for a 20 watt fiber. It performed best on brass. Sterling silver is a bit more complex to cut because of its high thermal conductivity.

The LP5 can cut up to 1mm of brass – which I did not test, but figuring that I embossed that deep, cutting should be a no-brainer.

Challenge Coin (Fiber Deep Embossing)

One of the coolest things you can do with a fiber laser is deep embossing… and challenge coins are quite popular. I am so not into them so I really honestly didn’t feel like trying it – but then I realized it’s a great test to see how it would perform on brass signet rings.

I should have just gotten a brass signet ring because the surface area is so much smaller, which makes the engrave time much shorter.

I ended up running it twice, once since one time it got disconnected. HOwever, it did do a great job and look forward to eventually trying a signet ring. I plan to keep designs simpler – just because that’s my style, rather than the complex designs. I ran the coin test to push it to the max.

Once I got to see this, I figure it’ll do even better on the simpler deep emboss projects I plan to run on brass.

I did polish these up with a rotary tool and a steel brush.

Aluminum Stamping Blank (Fiber Engraving)

Stamping blanks are a nice, soft metal and I wanted to see how well they engrave. I did this super quick heart and it zapped it in a second. This is a super fun, affordable customizable jewelry option.

Coated Tumblers (Fiber Engraving)

I engraved a monkey from the clipart library on my son’s tumbler, and once again, it went okay. However, I was very limited in the width of the design without the rotary, so if you plan to do these, get the rotary. I wish they had a curve mapping feature so I could do this without a rotary – I really only like to use a rotary extension for full wraps.

Coated Aluminum Sheet/Business Card (Fiber Engraving and Cutting)

These popular business cards go so fast with the galvo Fiber, however I never thought to cut them! The material sample pack came with a sheet version and it cut like a charm (no pun intended). I don’t think I’d use this for jewelry, however it can be fabulous for engraved inlaid plaques or any other inlay as it comes in many different colors. You can also do die cut aluminum business cards as a premium product, or even make clip-on bookmarks with it.

Since it’s a thin material you don’t have the slanted edge issue.

Brass (Engraving and Cutting)

Brass up to 1mm can be cut, however, I went a bit thinner to test it for brass inlays. I cut .2mm brass sheet and again, it just sliced right through it like butter.

It engraved beautifully as well, and once again, brass is a favorite material to work with.

925 Sterling Silver (Engraving and Cutting)

Sterling is more challenging with a laser engraver. I did manage to cut 24 gauge sterling. You always want to tape it down to secure it, as it’s lightweight and the fans can blow it out of place.

It engraves beautifully, and this charm was already claimed by my four year old!

Black Cast Acrylic Engraving (Fiber) and Cutting (Diode)

Acrylic is a popular material for laser crafters and while it can be cut using a diode laser, you’re really better off with a CO2 laser if you plan to dedicate yourself to different colored acrylic.

However, those are very pricey, harder to maintain, and the diode laser can cut many colors of acrylic. When it comes to a diode laser, black acrylic is really your best bet – and it can look adorable!

I made these name keychains for my son’s day camp counselors using 3mm black acrylic. It works quickly and effectively. I engraved using the fiber laser, which looks fabulous and gives a high contrast.

Cutting acrylic is tricky because of the angle, however, in small projects like this it doesn’t matter. It was centered vertically and the angling isn’t really prominent.

I engraved the thank you message in tiny on the back and it’s nice and sharp. I designed the whole thing in LaserPecker Design Space (the font is a system/self-owned font, not an app font).

Leather and Leatherette Engraving and Cutting

I’ve shared before that I’m NOT the biggest fan of working with a laser on leather just because of the fumes and the inconsistency between various leathers. However, I did test it here and it worked quite well, as expected.

Leatherette Hat Patch (Diode Engraving)

I engraved a black-to-silver adhesive hat patch with my logo. My settings were too strong and it engraved right through the coating, so yes, you’ll want to run tests and be very accurate with your focusing.

I like how the silver outline looks, though.

PU Leather (Diode Engraving and Cutting)

The sample pack came with a sheet of PU leather. I didn’t love how it engraved, but again, it’s leather dependent and you’ll want to test different PU leather types, run test grids, etc. so that you get the perfect engrave.

It cut beautifully and I was pleasantly surprised. I might rethink my whole attitude towards lasers and leather.

Genuine Leather (Engraving and Cutting)

I also engraved a piece of leather that I had at home and, well, the results are again the leather’s fault. It went beautifully through the top layer – but it’s too close in color to the surface to be visible. Colored leather or leather with a different core would look quite different. I need to try burning raw tooling leather now!

It cut nicely – I need to tweak my settings so it cuts a bit better – but again, I’m thinking that maybe I DO like laser cutting leather after all!

Slate Coaster (rock) Fiber Deep Embossing

I don’t think I am ever doing a deep emboss on slate ever again – the dust is next level – but it did a gorgeous job. Here’s where I ran into issues: I should have run it from the USB. After a few hours of embossing, it disconnected, didn’t manage t continue, and I was done. I had designed something special for it – I wanted to try for that layered water look with a resin fill – but I had to let it go so that I can get this review live, as it takes many, many hours to emboss slate of this size.

When it comes to any deep embossing, it’ll take much longer and majorly lag between layers if you don’t work from the USB. You’ll want to run these from the USB only. Trust me.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Final Review and Analysis

In a nutshell

To summarize: the LaserPecker LP5 is a dual laser engraver that’s a powerhouse for engraving loads of materials including metal, wood, slate, PU leather and genuine leather, and more.

It’s got a 20 watt fiber and 20 watt diode laser which is quite effective at engraving a variety of materials. Since it’s a galvo laser, its cuts tend to angle a bit. This matters more on larger cuts on thicker materials. For that reason, smaller cuts on thinner materials can still cut very efficiently, and cuts that matter less (that don’t need to join accurately) can still be done very effectively.

It’s a very compact laser engraver, with its small footprint, portability, and storability being one of my favorite perks.

The software has a steep learning curve but is learnable, and there’s no really good consolidated material library, so you’ll want to collect data and do full grid tests before starting your product line.

The unit with the stand has its own cover that does have some light leakage on some thicker materials, but that cover can be held up against surfaces to allow for protected engraving. The unit does come with safety goggles, a fabulous bonus.

It’s got loads of convenience and usability features and despite the steep learning curve it is a fabulous entry level, small business, on-site market, or secondary machine.

Is it right for you?

I always recommend that when making an investment purchase like the LaserPecker LP5, you start with a lists of musts and a list of “good to haves.” Once you covered those, here’s my advice:

If you’re looking for:

• a mid-market reliable laser engraver that’s
• perfect for small cuts, jewelry, and engraving or
• is portable and has a small footprint and doesn’t require a dedicated workshop and
• can cut and engrave a larger range of materials well rather than being highly specialized for a narrow range of materials

the LaserPecker LP5 is probably the right machine for you.

Feel free to drop a comment with your specific needs and I’ll let you know if I feel it’s the best fit for you – or just email me!

Get it here!

You can get the LaserPecker LP5 here and the safety enclosure here! Or, if you prefer, you can get it on Amazon!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

The post LaserPecker LP5 Review – 20 Watt Fiber and Diode Laser Engraver appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This comparison of the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra is based on my personal experiences using both. I did receive test machines to facilitate other posts, however, I was not compensated for this post, and it represents my opinions only. This post contains affiliate links.

The moment I received my second xTool machine, the F1 Ultra I knew I had to make a post comparing the xTool F1 vs F1 Ultra.

Now that it’s been around for a few months, I am ready to share everything I know. Please note: I will try to avoid getting overly technical. I plan to zoom in on the comparison itself. First, I’ll share a brief overview of each machine and then I’ll outline the differences.

Before I say a single other word: I was gifted both machines – for the original reviews (I chose to do this post on my own). I hope that you will find that it did not affect my review process. I will be sharing a factual play by play of how each machine performed in different circumstances so that you can make an informed decision based on my third party tests and your specific needs.

I also spent a lot on materials beyond what xTool sent me, to enable me to show you what it can do to the best of my abilities, and spent weeks testing, so if you do choose to purchase, please do so through my affiliate links! It doesn’t cost you any extra and helps support the work that I do here.

Xtool F1 Vs. F1 Ultra Basic Machine Specs

xTool F1 Features

You can ready my full xTool F1 review here for more details and a thorough play-by-play of all the features, material tests, etc.

This review is really just focusing on the comparable features between the two machines.

The xTool F1 is a compact laser engraver that is fabulous for small spaces, to bring from place to place, and for a large range of materials.

• 10 Watt Blue Light/Diode Laser (for materials such as wood, black acrylic and some other opaque colors, leather, PU leather, plastics, paper, and more)
• 2 Watt Infrared Laser (for marking metals)
• Work Surface: 4.5 x 4.5 inch rounded rectangle (approximate). Expandable to 15.75 x 4.5 inches with slide extension for cutting and engraving
• Footprint: 7 x 9.25 x 13 inch (approximate)
• Max Working Speed: 4000mm/s (engrave, slower with RA2 rotary or slide extension)
• Focus: Manual (semi-automatic if you measure your blank)
• Weight: Work Surface

Additional features:

• Removable work plate

xTool F1 Ultra Features

Read my full xTool F1 Ultra review here for a full rundown of features and specs, plus thorough tests on loads of materials.

• 20 Watt Blue Light/Diode Laser (for higher efficiency with materials such as wood, black acrylic and some other opaque colors, leather, PU leather, plastics, paper, and more)
• 20 Watt Fiber Laser (for engraving, embossing metals, cutting thin metals, and embossing stone)
• Work Surface: 8.6 x 8.6 inch work surface square (approximate). Expandable to 220×500 with conveyer for engraving only.
• Footprint: 10.7×14.7×19.4 inch (approximate)
• Max Working Speed: 10,000mm/s (engrave, slower with RA2 rotary or conveyer)
• Focus: Automatic or manual
• Weight: 32.4 lbs (14.7 kg)

Additional features are listed below.

Machine Functionality of the xTool F1 vs F1 Ultra

At the end of the day, while specs are nice to see, your reall question when comparing the xTool F1 vs the F1 Ultra is – what can each one do? More importantly, what can the Ultra do that the flagship F1 can’t?

Here, I break it down bit by bit.

First of all, let’s talk size. If you raise the head of the Ultra, you can literally fit the F1 inside.

I’ll share more about cutting sizes below.

What the F1 Ultra can do that the F1 can’t

Deep Engrave Metal

While the F1, when run slow enough, can scratch the surface of metal, it mostly just marks it (a nice, dark, permanent print).

While this is a fabulous feature that can allow you to create beautiful personalized jewelry, the F1 Ultra not only does this more efficiently, but more effectively.

On the Ultra, you get a real engrave.

Embossing

On that note, you can actually emboss metal! Have you ever seen those “challenge coins” – that is, those commemorative coins that people like to collect in different themes? They have these fabulous embossings in different themes.

The F1 Ultra can go quite deep. I made a beautiful wax seal stamp with my logo, using a blank brass stamping blank. I’ve also seen people do reliefs for jewelry making (see Jack Jellies’ videos on YouTube)

And while the F1‘s 2 Watt Infrared laser can do a beautiful engraving on a slate coaster, the Ultra can emboss a gorgeous, intricately detailed 3D design.

Cutting Metal

And here’s the real whammy. The xTool F1 Ultra can actually cut thin metal (something that the F1 doesn’t even consider thinking of doing). The question is really – how far can you push it, how thick can it go?

I still haven’t gone as far as I think I can and the thickest I’ve tried on sterling silver is 24 gauge. I plan to eventually try even thicker.

But it still creates some rather impressive jewelry. The stainless steel and brass I cut are thick enough for actual jewelry pieces, but take time.

Thin brass cuts quickly and efficiently, and makes beautiful inlays in wood (a process I hope to share soon).

What the F1 is capable of that the Ultra isn’t

Let’s start with one premise: if the F1 can cut or engrave it, the Ultra definitely can. It has the same baseline specs plus much more.

But there are specific feature benefits to the original F1 that you don’t get with the Ultra.

Portability

The F1 Ultra is definitely more transportable than most other lasers, however the F1 is designed to be portable. xTool even makes a (separate) case for the F1!

It can be lifted by a simple handle on top, while the Ultra pretty much needs to be hugged all around to be lifted. It weighs less than 1/3 and is much less bulky.

Not only that, but the F1 requires only a desktop air purifier to clean the air that it lets out, while the F1 Ultra requires the larger version.

So while it totally is feasible to take the F1 Ultra onsite, it’s not designed for that and will require much more effort.

Space Saving

While the F1 Ultra is once again, much smaller in footprint than many other laser engravers, it does require more space. For reference, I have my F1 on a standing desk, and my F1 Ultra requires a small folding table.

Part of this requirement is because of the conveyer – it’s LONG compared to the slide extension – and the ventilation required in the form of a larger air purifier. If you are venting outside, and don’t plan to use the extensions, the only significant difference in space is really the height.

Expanded Cutting

Possibly one of my ONLY frustrations with the F1 Ultra is the fact that there’s no extension beyond the work surface for cutting. That means that the basic work surface is the maximum for cutting.

Since the conveyer doesn’t have a cutting protection it can only be used for larger engraving.

That said, I haven’t yet cut anything larger. The F1 series isn’t designed for large format cutting project. I did make an adorable cake topper on the Ultra for my son’s birthday, and it was large enough to cut that out of the box.

That being said, while it makes it wider (13 inches to the Ultra’s 8.5-ish), it still is only 4.5 inches high. So the F1 Ultra can cut up to 8.5×8.5 while the F1 can do 13 inches wide by 4.5 high.

Removable Surface Plate

Finally, the flagship F1 has a removable surface plate – that is, the work surface. That allows you to place the entire machine on a larger item to engrave it in that one spot, through the hole. That makes it easier than balancing a large item on the base of the machine, gives you better protection with the cover in place, and allows you to more easily engrave something large in increments.

Note: the inconsistencies in the engrave is due to inconsistencies in the bamboo material and is an issue across all laser engravers. I find that doing a darker/deeper engrave to begin with does mitigate some of the issue.

And finally, working hand-in-hand with the handle and portability, that allows you to engrave very large items that can’t be brought to the space. For example, you can hold it in place to engrave on a car, engrave a house number directly on the brick of the house etc.

Once again, this is a feature I haven’t really used. It’s not so practical to bring it out, hook it up to power, and then hold it in place while it works….

More functionality perks of the F1 Ultra vs. the F1

Once again, the premium price you’re paying for the F1 Ultra comes with perks that personally, I think that once you’re investing in a machine like this are worthwhile. They allow you to take more jobs, produce more and do more with one machine.

One of the major upgrades on the xTool F1 Ultra vs. the F1 is the camera. I always thought I wanted that feature to help me place my designs, but it actually adds loads of features beyond that.

First of all, it adds an automatic focus feature (just hit “focus” and it adjusts to focus). I didn’t highlight that much below because I tend to just manually focus anyway.

But it also adds other features, and you’ll see the camera mentioned in a few below.

Batch Production

There are two major upgrades on the F1 Ultra that allow for batch production:

1. The camera and accompanying software
2. The conveyer extension.

The camera can detect items on the surface that are the same as the “sample” item you set, and place your design on all of them. This works even without the conveyer extension – just fill what you can fit on the surface.

The conveyer allows you to use that function, constantly, adding more, and batch producing large quantities. The accuracy is impressive.

This means you can take on larger jobs – creating custom favors and swag, craft kit components, promotionals, in a very realistic amount of times. XTool calls it “factory level production” and in my opinion, it really is that.

Curved Surface Engraving

The camera on the F1 Ultra allows it to map out a curved surface, and adjust the focus to engrave along it. While you can get the RA2 Pro Rotary Attachment for BOTH to engrave around a cylinder, sometimes you don’t want to bother with that (if you’re just engraving the front anyway) – and some curved items aren’t cylinders.

The Ultra allows you to map out the inside of a bowl, the outside of a coffee tin, etc, getting a beautiful curved surface engrave.

(Note: the software for this hasn’t been formally released and is currently in invite-only beta mode.)

Larger baseline cutting surface

I’ve mentioned that the cutting surface on the F1 is wider with the slide extension, the baseline size of the Ultra is 4x the size – that is, double the width and double the height.

So when it comes to cutting something like a cake topper or letters for a sign (individually) your base size is much more “real”. (Note: you DO need to seal or wrap the sticks on your plywood cake toppers to make them food safe).

Higher focus range/taller

I had this napkin holder hanging around my house after I couldn’t really engrave it with the F1. While technically I could place the F1 on top with the plate removed to engrave, the hole was too small and it wouldn’t balance well.

When I got the F1 Ultra I was absolutely thrilled to be able to engrave it – and it did a beautiful job, twelve minutes on each side. I turned an ordinary napkin holder into a beautiful table centerpiece featuring my own artwork.

Straight Edges

One issue with the F1 is that, due to the nature of a galvo laser (that is, a laser that is bounced around with mirrors and not on a track, which makes it MUCH faster but limits surface size) is that if you cut too far out from the central laser, you end up with a bit of an angled edge on thicker materials. (Note: the below photo is an extreme example of something small and close up cut at the farthest edge).

The solution is obviously to place things closer to the center. That works beautifully for smaller items, but larger items need to be cut closer to the edges.

On the xTool F1 Ultra, because the laser is placed higher up, you get less angling on a comparable sized engrave. If you get close to the edges, you do end up with similar, but again, the edges are much further out, giving you better cut sizes.

While it might still not be the best option for creating actual build items that require flush edges, it does make your regular cuts much prettier.

More benefits

The xTool F1 Ultra was created with loads more features that work with the premium nature of the machine. They really thought of it all.

• Movable Screen – I find that the movable nature of the operation really helps my efficiency in the craft room. I can place it near where I am doing whatever I’m doing as the machine works.
• Storage/offline functionality – yes, the xTool f1 Ultra has actual storage space on it! That means that you can work offline as well if you’ve stored files! That actually adds to the portability and gives it a leg up over the xTool F1 in that respect, as long as you’re willing to schlep a little more.
• Double tap repeat task – Easily batch produce even without buttons, etc by double tapping on the green button on the screen to repeat the last task.
• Higher range/Better colors – While the F1 can get quite the color range on stainless steel, the Ultra has even more color capabilities.

Which machine is best for you – the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra?

Creating a comparison chart for yourself

The best way to choose a large investment like this is to make a list.

• Write your must-haves
• Write your love-to-haves
• Write your good-to-haves

If one checks all your must-haves and one doesn’t that’s your answer. If they both have all your must-haves, or both don’t, you can assign points, make a ranking system, etc. Choose that way.

I personally think that if you’re investing in a hobby, sticking with small orders, looking for an extra machine for onsite engraving, or really don’t have the budget, go for the xTool f1. It’s a tiny powerhouse of a machine, and I loved it from the first day I owned it.

If you can spring for it, and especially if this is any sort of business investment, the F1 Ultra is worthwhile. It’s much easier to recoup a larger investment with small orders than a smaller investment with small orders. The fact that it allows you to batch produce will help you get past the two-figures and into the three and four figure single orders, without working through the nights.

It also can create much more high quality engraves on metal, works much faster on all the materials that the F1 DOES do efficiently, and is a more fully-featured machine.

And the fact that it can do more than the F1 can do will allow you to say “yes” to more types of jobs.

Thinking long term

Finally, one thing that I see consistently when people purchase craft machines for business: if you start with a cheaper option that doesn’t quite do all you want to do, but is a good starting point, you often end up purchasing the more expensive machine eventually.

That’s not a bad thing necessarily – testing things out and earning back the funds on the first before springing for the larger investment – especially when it’s worthwhile to own both machines anyway (which it is if you do craft shows).

But you may prefer to first get the one that can do more.

Whichever one you choose, I am quite certain that you’ll fall in love with it. Feel free to comment or shoot me an email if you have any questions pertaining to your specific machine needs and I’ll try to answer ASAP based on my testing experience!

Which machine do you think is more impressive – the compact portability of the xTool F1 vs. the powerhouse metalwork of the xTool F1 Ultra? Comment below!

The post xTool F1 vs. F1 Ultra – Side by Side Comparison appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I’m thrilled to share with you this in-depth xTool F1 Ultra review, along with in-depth testing of what it can and can’t do and some free SVG files to cut. You can check out my original xTool F1 laser engraver review and material tests here. This post contains affiliate links.

Laser engraving can open up a whole new world for your small business. Whether you’re new to it or not, the xTool F1 Ultra might be the right machine for your. It’s got unique and innovative features, and it has limitations, all of which I’m happy to share in this xTool F1 Ultra Review.

Before I say a single other word: I was gifted an xTool F1 Ultra for the sake of this review. I hope that you will find that it did not affect my review process. I will be sharing a factual play by play of how the machine performed in different circumstances so that you can make an informed decision based on my third party tests and your specific needs.

I also spent a lot on materials beyond what xTool sent, to enable me to show you what it can do to the best of my abilities, and spent weeks testing, so if you do choose to purchase, please do so through my affiliate links! It doesn’t cost you any extra and helps support the work that I do here.

What you’ll find in this review of the xTool F1 Ultra

In this post, I plan to cover the basics. I spent many hours testing it, trying to nail down certain settings, and I learned the hard way: there’s no end to what I can test to thoroughly review the xTool F1 Ultra. So I had to call it a day at some point and share with you what I’ve learned so far.

I will be sharing with you:

• Machine specs and details

• Special features
• And loads of material tests
• My overview/opinion

Bear in mind that I do lots of hobby-level jewelry, so I definitely focused on that, but my material tests are broad and all-encompassing, so even if you don’t primarily do jewelry, you’ll find this xTool F1 Ultra review helpful.

I am also relatively new to laser engraving, so you’ll be getting this from the user-friendly, layman’s perspective, allowing you to understand how you might experience it even if you’re not a laser pro.

At the end of this post, you’ll find a form to download some of my test files for jewelry for free – all in SVG format.

xTool F1 Ultra Review – Basic machine features/analysis

I’m going to go over the basics quickly as this is all information you can easily find on their website.

In a nutshell, the xTool F1 Ultra is a first-of-its-kind dual 20 Watt Fiber and 20 Watt Diode laser, with a full enclosure. You can cut and engrave loads of materials because of the dual laser types, with Fiber focusing primarily on metals and Diode on most other materials. It’s a galvo laser – that means that it uses mirrors to reflect the laser across the surface – rather than a gantry that runs the laser module along tracks with a motor. That allows it to run super fast.

It’s much bigger than its predecessor, the F1, with a large work surface, multiple accessories for expansion, and better height. Yet, it still does not take up a large amount of desk space.

In the box

I am always floored by xTool’s packaging engineers. The product was packed in a way that even tossing it across the room wouldn’t ruin it (I think – don’t try it). It’s relatively easy to unload, thanks to the thought they put into every single step of the packaging process.

In the box, you have the main machine held together with hook and loop straps and another box. Inside the machine itself, you have two additional boxes with the touchscreen controller, screwdriver, USB C to USB cable, two “keys” (USB dongles that you need to insert for your device to work – a safety feature), an L shaped positioning piece and a lint free cloth to clean your lens.

In the other box, you have the power cable, tubing for smoke extraction, instructions, and a cutting base.

The machine also comes with a sample material package for you to start testing different materials. I don’t know if this is something that they keep consistent across the board, but mine came with some basswood plywood, slate coasters, a few aluminum business cards, a suedette jewelry pouch, two bone-shaped dog tags, a few stainless steel pendant blanks, scratch art paper (also used to calibrate the machine), kraft paper, and leatherette patches.

I love that they include such an exhaustive material sample kit with the machine – it gives more opportunity to learn what the machine can do.

Specs & Feature Rundown of the xTool F1 Ultra

• 20 Watt Diode Laser
• 20 Watt Fiber Laser
• Touchscreen attachment (included) for offline processing, 7 GB project storage
• Curved surface engraving
• 16 MP Camera – autofocus, easier project placement, autofill for batch processing

• Ultra HD Image engraving – Its Fiber has 0.03 x 0.03mm compression spot on fiber, and its diode galvo laser has 0.08 x 0.1mm compression spot.
• Laser-proof enclosure and smart cover: if opened while processing, the light power drops to harmless levels
• 220mm x 220mm work surface
• Emergency Stop Button
• Extraction Fan
• Fire Safety Alarm
• Adjustable frequency 30 to 60kHz

Optional accessories (reviews later in this post)

Conveyer – factory level productivity, plus larger engrave. This is a major perk of the xTool F1 Ultra, and I review it in depth below.

RA2 Pro Rotary attachment– 90% wraparound engraving (some creators reach basically 100% with it). This is cross-compatible with the original F1 and I reviewed it on that post in depth, but go through it again here.

SafetyPro AP2 Air Purifier – A must-have unless you’re venting outdoors. This is quite large, but sits nicely on casters under my folding table. It’s sleek and beautiful looking, and does an incredible job of keeping things odorless.

SafetyPro IF2 Inline Fan – This connects to the venting hoses and features a powerful fan – like a vacuum that suctions the fumes and debris faster than it can leak out to the room, pulling it towards the air purifier for filtration.

Foot Pedal or Button Switch – for easy operation, instead of the “start” button. These are both cross-compatible with the original F1 as well.

Common Material Cutting Max

Metals

• 0.4mm brass
• 0.3mm stainless steel
• 0.2mm aluminum sheet (including aluminum business cards)
• I tested it on 30 gauge sterling and it cut beautifully (more below…) and think it can go further. I’m not sure how much further.

Other raw materials

• Black acrylic – 12mm
• Basswood – 12 MM (really 15MM but it may cause flames at that thickness)

xTool F1 Ultra Review – Pros, cons

The xTool F1 Ultra’s fiber laser is a true fiber laser, on the lower end of the power spectrum, at 20 watts. This can do quite a lot that regular infrared lasers can’t. It CAN cut through thin metals as you’ll see below.

More complex tasks will take time.

It can also make incredible deep engraves and embossings, and I’m really excited to get started mixing this with resin crafting. I think it’s just begging to be used that way.

I think it can also be used to make molds – I’m not sure how the emboss feature will apply to silicone but I imagine it can be cool for making both clay and resin molds. I may have to be creative with the materials I use, finishing options, etc, and it’s definitely a feature I need to play with.

One of the biggest perks of the xTool F1 Ultra is the ability to do both diode and fiber laser engraving. The diode laser is great for photo marking, for removing the finish on coated metals, and for a large variety of materials.

The Fiber is great for metal, and actually removes some material, creating a true engraving, not just a marking.

Having both in one machine means that you can, for example, use the diode to engrave on coated metal and then the fiber to clean things up. Or, you can use the diode to remove the coating on an invisibly coated blank and then engrave the metal itself.

You can use a single machine to engrave a relief in wood, and then cut a brass inlay to place inside, as I’ll share below. In this respect, there is nothing quite like the xTool F1 Ultra.

Even without the conveyer, batch producing is easy with a corner bracket that has built-in screws (and requires no tools) that threads into the “pegboard” work base, and a “repeat task” feature built into the machine. Just double tap the start button to repeat your last task.

The biggest drawback is the strength. While you probably won’t need a stronger fiber laser unless you plan to do thick metal cutting, that is one thing that this machine does not do. It can cut quite functionally thin metals, as you’ll see in my tests below.

If that is the bulk of the work that you do, you may prefer a machine dedicated to that.

The Touchscreen

One of my favorite new features on the xTool F1 Ultra is the touchscreen attachment. This interface attaches to the machine and allows you to control the machine from this screen.

You can use it to access files, access external storage, recreate a project, frame, and focus, and the start button is there too. This allows for some fully offline processing.

The big green bar button at the bottom is the start button. It’s easy to use and intuitive. There’s no crazy learning curve and you don’t need to use it much, but you can use it heavily… Double tap the big green button to repeat the last task – a must for batch producing things!

And I like that it’s not built into the machine – rather, it’s a movable feature that you can place wherever is convenient.

The software: xTool Creative Space

xTool is compatible with leading laser engraving software, Lightburn, however, they also have their own native free software. I’ve been using this exclusively. As a graphic designer familiar with Adobe programs, I am impressed with what it can do on the basic design and editing level.

Features

• Generative AI – While I’m not a fan of using it to generate new images, I love that you can use it to generate depth maps for embossing!
• Material EasySet Library – they did the testing on loads of materials! For certain materials, you have a visual you can choose from for the result you’d like.

• Vector editing – including node editing
• Live trace to vectorize images
• Basic image editing features
• Built-in Library of a variety of shapes and images, including tasteful designs like leaves, florals, and more

Feedback

You can truly design what you’d like in XCS and edit things in a pretty advanced way. And since it’s built with your machine in mind, it’s easy to learn, with a more streamlined interface.

The more existing design knowledge you have, the easier it’ll be, but it’s clearly designed with the layman in mind.

In XCS 2.0, they added the ability to edit and process multiple projects at once. This is fabulous: you can literally edit the same project by minimizing the task, for example, to prep your final clean-up layer.

Or, if you’re using the same project to create multiple objects (for example, name pendants with different names, or multiple sides on an engraved pendant), you can really work efficiently.

Portability and Size

The machine size is 10.7×14.7×19.4 (approximate) inches or 273x273x492 mm. It weighs about 32.4 lbs (14.7 kg).

While not quite as portable as its predecessor, the F1, it CAN be transported with relative easy. It’s a large machine that needs to be packed and cared for, and not fully portable. 

However, it has a unique feature that makes transporting it more doable. Most fiber lasers have an external and very delicate glass fiber cable.

The xTool F1 Ultra is fully enclosed.

My recommendation is, if you plan to transport it, keep the beautifully engineered (as usual) foam packaging that it comes in and transport it in that.

With the surface/desk area being very roughly a square foot, it’s really easy to find the space for.

What the xTool F1 Ultra can and can’t do: material tests and projects

One of they keys to a successful and satisfying purchase of a high end machine is to understand its capabilities and limitations. Helping you understand this is my goal in this xTool F1 Ultra review.

I spent many many hours doing material tests, and yes, I did have to stop somewhere and actually share this with you! I’ll be giving a quick rundown of what I’ve tested, and will share the results with you, as well as feedback on how it performed and lots of opinions, of course.

Important: my purpose for material testing for the xTool F1 Ultra review is to show you what it can and can’t do – to help you make an informed purchase. It’s to give a general idea of its capabilities.

So you’ll want to run your own tests on your most-used materials. For the ones that are more complex and I had to test a lot, I included my results. However, for the ones that worked quickly I don’t simply because it’s not necessarily a best result – you’ll want to test yourself.

Cutting & Engraving Metal

Here’s the part you’re really wanting to know: how well does xTool’s 20 watt fiber laser work on metals?

I tested it in a few ways, trying to see just how far I can stretch it, with doing proper engravings, deep embossing, and even cutting metal.

I was floored by how well it handled brass. That is going to be my favorite material to use with the xTool F1 Ultra.

Emboss on metal: Custom wax seal stamp

It took me a number of tries to get this right but when I did, I was absolutely amazed (and the process is repeatable so I wont’ need to play with the next one).

To cut a wax seal stamp with my new logo, I created a depth map image. You can do this with xTool creative space, however, I found that for a high-contrast image like a logo, it makes more sense to do it myself. The deepest areas are black (the ones you want raised on the seal) and the border is white. You can soften edges using grayscales, however, I kept it simple.

I cut it using emboss feature and the following settings: Fiber, 256 layers, 90% power, 900mm/s, 1 pass, 260 lines per cm, descend at z axis every 25 layers by .01 mm. It took about 1.25 hours.

Stainless steel pendant – engrave and cut: One hour.

I cut and engraved this 0.3mm stainless steel disc pendant (free SVG for the irregular circle shape at the end of this post).

The cutting took about 35 minutes.

It’s fabulous for those who like to make their own designs and can sit around and do other things while it cuts. I am actually writing up the review of each material as it cuts. So it is very time consuming, however, it’s active time, not passive (kind of like when your cake is in the oven…)

That being said, if you’re looking to do this for onsite customization (such as name necklaces in-store) it’s on the slow end of things. I cut a very simple shape, but in a nice size to demonstrate it.

The max depth it can cut isn’t very deep at 0.3mm – it’s enough to make a simple piece that is functional. I did need to use pliers to pull it out of the border but this can probably change by tweaking my settings.

The engraving was really just to give it some chic texture and it’s fabulous! I’m going to try it with animal print textures next. I chose engrave the settings based on a test grid array.

Brass

You may have noticed based on the deeper maximum cut of 0.4mm that brass cuts nicely on the xTool F1 Ultra.

I’m obsessed with what I can do with brass.

I cut 0.2mm brass to create a metal inlay on wooden pieces, as I shared above. I hope to do a dedicated post for that process (adding it to the list of 1000 posts I plan to write – no joke!)

I also cut 0.4mm brass to make a brass pendant. Settings were power 100%, speed10 mm/s, pass 200.I hammered the final piece. SVG is included in the download at the end of this post.

And the engraving is just gorgeous – one of my more successful engravings right off the bed. Settings were Power 100 speed 80 Pass 2, lines 300, then a cleanup pass of the same design (my default cleanup pass is Power 20, speed 4000, Pass 1-3 depending how much it needs).

Sterling Silver – Deep Engrave & 24+30 Gauge Cut

Since I’m on a budget, I started off very conservative with testing a sterling silver cut and tried it on 30 gauge (0.225 mm) dead soft sterling silver for this.

I managed to cut a 3/4 inch circle with hole in a minute including engraving time! On the first test I almost engraved through to the back of the piece…

Settings for engrave: Fiber IR, 90%, 100mm/s, 3 passes, 300 LPC. Deeper engraves can be done with more passes, however be wary of your material depth.

Settings for cut: Fiber IR, 100%, 30mm/s, 10 passes.

A note: a sheet of metal must be fixed for more efficient cuts. It can shift and warp as it heats up. I taped mine on the edges to the cutting base using masking tape.

While 30 gauge is a bit thin for cutting an actual piece of jewelry, the fact that it took only a minute and cut in ten passes makes me think I can do thicker.

At this thickness, it can already be used in larger jewelry projects – whether for layering pieces of silver and soldering them, forging larger pieces, or even creating sterling silver inlays on jewelry.

Update: Since that test was successful, I went ahead and purchased 24 gauge sterling silver. I can’t give you final settings yet as I need to perfect it, but it cut it in about 24 minutes for a small (3/4 inch) letter cutout and engrave. I’ll keep updating here as I test further.

One note I see among crafters is that it’s quicker to saw cut thicker metals – and that is true. However, I do NOT count passive time (the machine is working) the same as active time (me working) because I can do other things in the room while it’s going. Setup takes minutes, and it’s much easier to produce in bulk.

Color Engraving Plated Dog Tag

To color engrave, the first thing you’re going to want to do is to create a grid array and play with the colors. My range was speed 12-50mm/s and power 10-30%.

I would like to play around more to get even more color options, however, I was already able to get a gorgeous range.

Color engraving will require you to set different settings for each item. The first time, it can take time but once you have your favorites, save those settings with the color name.

I tested this on a plated dog tag using my new logo. The colors definitely need some adjusting but they’re there… and it looks fabulous!

Aluminum Business Cards

12 Seconds. Yup, that’s how long it took to each side of these business cards!

And batch producing it is a breeze. While the conveyer – which we’ll discuss below – can nail one side of it, if you’re doing a second side, it won’t necessarily do it in the same direction. However, by using the corner bracket, you can simply double tap the “start” button and it repeats the last task.

So to make this small pile of cards, I simply engraved the first as needed, placing the bracket and doing all the setup on that one. Then I sat in a comfortable chair in front of my machine, placed a new card against the L bracket, hit the green button twice, and let it run.

I removed it and did the next. I repeat – each one took about 12 seconds.

Then, I moved onto the back design, making sure to place the card in the right direction and repeated the process…

More Jewelry Material Tests for the xTool F1 Ultra Review

I engraved a tiny heart anklet in one second. Yes, you heard right – 1 second.

I had to test engraving on 14kt gold for those of you who customize fine jewelry, so I found a single earring that’ll need to be scrapped anyway, and it worked beautifully on the first take.

I wanted to nail that stainless steel photo engrave, but it’s going to require lots more tests than I have time for. I found that what I tried either looked okay or looked great from the side but not straight-ahead. For photo engraves, coated aluminum might be a better option to use.

I had to try a gemstone bead as jewelry crafter, because I can just imagine the possibilities if you can engrave beads! I did it two ways: one was a deep emboss and one was a surface engrave. Both worked beautifully. Tip: start with slate coaster settings for this and work from there.

Clay was also an important one for me, and while I’m far from nailing those settings, it’s clearly something that works well on both polymer clay and air dry clay. That means that you can create simple blanks from clay to use in personalized jewelry.

An aluminum metal stamping blank was deep-engraved beautifully as was a plated bar pendant with my kids birth months and years

Quick tests on 14kt gold filled and copper yielded decent results – obviously more testing is needed.

Deep Emboss – Relief – Slate Coaster

I was hoping to do a full slate coaster for you, but many other reviewers have done this, and it takes a long time. I instead focused my time on testing things that others haven’t tested.

I did however do a small spot to see how far we can push the boundaries of detail with the xTool F1 Ultra.

The detail is insane. I mean I’m truly impressed with what you can do with this. When I do find the time to do a large coaster, I plan to resin fill it for a true work of art.

Curved item

Sept 2024 update: This feature has finally been released and I’m excited to share the results of engraving a fun design on the water bottle that lives in my craft room!

Instead of using a rotary to get even results on a curved item, the xTool F1 Ultra uses its camera to map out the visible portion of a curved surface, and engrave along the curve. This is a much more efficient – and easy – way to engrave curved items that don’t require a full wrap! And the results were incredible.

In just four minutes, the F1 Ultra engraved a nice sized design. I used the default settings in XCS for a coated tumbler in the closest colors I could find and it was spot on. It used the fiber laser for this.

Most of it was good to go right off the machine. The left side needed a few seconds of cleanup – however, I was able to detect that it was outside the safe zone already when I was framing.

In a nutshell, if you need to produce custom water bottles in minutes, this is the way to do it – and yes, you can get a nice sized design done quickly.

Cutting & Engraving Wood

Cutting and engraving wood uses the diode laser.

Wood keychains

One of the first projects I did was to emboss my old logo into a wood keychain. I didn’t realize what I was doing as I was first learning my machine and quickly stopped it before it went completely through!

I then went ahead and engraved a few more of these pretty wooden keychains. Even an engrave went quite deep!

I made these as backpack tags “return to” IDs for my boys, and a photo keychain for their “Supa Daddy”.

I hope to at some point experiment with embossing and resin filling these.

I used xTool XCS default Basswood settings for this.

Bamboo Napkin Holder

Another project I did was to engrave a napkin holder that I had sitting around with some artwork that I’ve created. It is absolutely gorgeous. Again, a simple engrave has a bit of depth so I hope to paint the design to help it stand out even more.

I had wanted to engrave this same napkin holder with the original xTool F1, however, it was too high. I’d have had to figure out a way to hold up/prop my machine and engrave through the open base on that one. I was delighted to be able to complete this on the Ultra.

Mango wood cutting board

This mango wood cutting board was purchased just to test the Ultra on different woods. This one already has a pretty high contrast grain, making it a bit harder to see the design (also an illustration of mine).

However, the detail is gorgeous and accurate, as you can see.

To bring it out even more, I used silk screen stencil cream to fill it in, scraping and wiping off the excess.

I used XCS’s default basswood settings for this, however, I do think I need to play a little and maybe increase it for next time.

Cutting and Embossing Wood Earrings

My final project with wood (for now…) was to cut out a simple earring with a rose that I illustrated (SVG for this is available for free at the end of this post) from 3mm basswood.

Because it’s a galvo laser, you get a slight angle on cuts with thickness, if they’re removed from the center of your cutting surface. However, this issue is much less of a problem on the xTool F1 Ultra than it is on the original F1. That’s because the laser is positioned higher, meaning it needs to angle out less.

It cut smoothly, with minimal flame.

I do want to figure out if this one can do more complex cuts (I had some issues completing complex cuts on wood with the F1) but that wasn’t my top priority for the xTool F1 Ultra review.

The engraving is a beautiful, deep engrave, that can easily be filled with paint like I did on these laser cut earrings.

I used the XCS settings from their materials library.

Cutting and Engraving Acrylic

Acrylic is a favorite to cut using diode lasers, and I’ve had fabulous results both cutting and engraving using the xTool F1 Ultra. I tested the same 3mm black acrylic and it worked beautifully, using XCS settings.

SVG for this earring is available for download at the end of this post.

I did not try colored acrylic. In general, I found xTool’s acrylic to be reliably high quality (and no they did not ask me to say this) vs. the random companies I purchased on Amazon that did not cut nicely.

I only tested black acrylic for this. Presumably other opaque colors can work, besides for blue.

Cutting and engraving leather

I used the diode laser for all of these projects.

Faux suede jewelry pouch

Included in the material kit that came with the machine was a sweet little faux suede jewelry pouch. This is fabulous both as a travel jewelry bag and as upscale packaging for a jewelry business.

I branded mine with my husband’s logo because I discovered that it’s the perfect size for business cards too.

Using xTool’s built-in settings, it engraved beautifully in a minute and 3 seconds. These can make beautiful branded products, party favors for a jewelry-making party, gifts…

The built-in camera was a fabulous tool for placement and sizing, and seeing how it’ll look at scale.

Cutting and Engraving Leather Bracelet

Leather cut very nicely using the xTool F1 Ultra. It engraved nicely as well, with lots of messy residue. I do need to run some more tests to get my settings to the ideal range, but it does do a great job.

However, I will note. When it comes to laser cutting genuine leather, it cuts very nicely, but I do prefer to cut it using my Cricut or even a knife for simpler shapes, for the very simple reason that it just makes so much smoke. It cuts okay other ways, so laser cutting feels a bit like overkill.

I would really only be recommended for very intricate designs or if batch processing (as other methods take a lot of time…)

Laser cutting leather causes a lot of smoke. And since leather can be so different from piece to piece, unless you’re always using the same leather (and can run extensive tests to nail down the perfect setting) you probably prefer to just machine cut it and not laser cut it.

Update – the new SafetyPro series purifier and inline fan mitigates this issue significantly!

The exception is faux leather (PU) which engraves and cuts nicely, and can be easier to find in consistent weights.

I included the SVG for this leather bracelet at the end of this post.

Accessory tests

xTool’s accessories are a game changer, allowing you to make the most of the machine’s engraving powers while batch producing or working on cylindrical shapes.

RA2 Pro Rotary

The RA2 Pro rotary was tested further in my previous post featuring the xTool F1. I love that it’s cross-compatible with other machines.

Here, I used the prongs to engrave a stainless steel ring with the words “This too shall pass” (inspired by King Solomon’s legendary mood ring). It can be hard to get the placement right on something like this, but it worked beautifully and quickly.

You can use it to engrave both smaller and larger cylinders, with multiple chuck options, easier-to-use rollers, and loads of placements and sizes.

Conveyer

The conveyer is a game-changer with the xTool F1 Ultra. It is the key to earning your investment back quickly by being able to batch process and take large orders.

One of my biggest hurdles that prevented me from selling my own jewelry designs was the tediousness of working with small orders, and individual products.

The conveyer allows you to pretty much run a factory. Combined with the camera, it reads the shape of your blank, identifies it on the conveyer, and automatically places your design on subsequent products. It connects easily to the base of the xTool F1 Ultra in minutes.

Make sure to use laser-proof goggles when using any accessory that leaves the cover open.

To test it, I ran a trial of a product idea I have: Hebrew “scrabble tile” wood pieces for language learning. I placed about 50 of these high quality tiles on the conveyer and placed one letter on them. I placed a random wood star as well, to see what will happen. It got all of them besides for the ones in “border” zones on the edges of batches – for a total of 44 with six misses – in 42 seconds!!

And it did it right!

Note that I did a very light engrave on this – deeper engraves will take longer. The inconsistencies in strength is something that you often see in wood due to natural variations, and can be corrected to a degree with a darker engrave.

In other words, for me, larger orders and the ability to do batch work is the key to monetizing a laser engraver with less hustle and more satisfaction. Being able to mass-produce product ideas is a game changer.

Another huge business/large order idea for me is event favors or corporate gifts. As a joke (because I don’t have a real one to work with) I tried anodized aluminum bone-shape dog tags. I engraved them with “Buddy’s Bark Mitzvah”. It did a beautiful 100% perfect job.

Using the xTool F1 Ultra with the conveyer is a game-changer in setting up a laser business and being able to properly monetize via large orders in a realistic way.

The conveyer can also be used for larger engravings (although I wish it could have a back-and-forth feature and an attachment for large cuttings too).

Button and Foot Pedal

xTool also released some add on buttons that can be used instead of the “start” button on your machine. I find this convenient for the original F1 more than the Ultra – as the F1 has a button fixed on the machine, so if I’m sitting at a slight distance I have to get up to press it.

Since the Ultra has the screen detached, I can have that a bit removed from the machine, closer to where I’m working. I do however like the foot pedal as a hands-free tool for when I’m multi-tasking.

They are both fabulous tools and work well if it’s something that you are missing and was on your wishlist. I’d stop short of calling them “must-haves”.

New! SafetyPro Series AP2 Air Purifier

xTool has recently launched their latest air purifier – one that automatically syncs with the F1 Ultra to optimize purification settings.

The AP2 Air Purifier comes with a bluetooth dongle that allows your machine to send settings to the purifier based on the material you’re cutting. And yes, it starts up when you need it to! Not only that, but it actually is smart enough to know what level of filtration you need for your specific material – because it’s a beautiful syndication of device, laser engraver, and purifier.

It comes with five layers of filter, clearly labeled, that are easy to swap out individually as needed, allowing you to change it in parts. It has a washable first layer (the “cyclone”) that stops the prefilter from clogging and helps to cut replacement costs.

I tested it out on wood, leather, and acrylic and it was a game changer. Both of those are odor-intense and the difference was there. Combine that with the inline fan – that works like a vacuum to suction the fumes and debris as you’re cutting or engraving right into the purifier – it really is a much safer – and more pleasant – way to craft.

You can read my full xTool SafetyPro Series review here.

What can the F1 Ultra do that the F1 can’t?

You can check out my full comparison of the xTool F1 vs F1 ultra side-by-side, but meanwhile, here is a point-by-point overview of what you’d be upgrading:

Size – The xTool F1 Ultra is much larger, and can cut and engrave taller objects as well as larger objects without any add-on accessories. It’s officially two times the size, but it’s actually that in all directions, making the bed pretty much four times the size.

Deep engrave metal – not mark. While the F1 can do slight engraves if you get the settings right, the Ultra can properly engrave and even do fillable deep-engraves.

Deep emboss on metal, rock, etc – This is transformative allowing you to create molds, coins, wax seals/stamps, resin craft bases, signet rings, and more.

Cut metal – The F1 can’t cut metal at all. While the Ultra isn’t a “metal cutting powerhouse” exactly, it is capable of cutting thinner metals for thin jewelry, inlays, stacked designs, and other crafts.

Double power for Diode – With more Diode power, you get much faster speeds and efficiency.

Camera – This is a feature I personally missed on F1 (and shared that in my review). The camera on the F1 Ultra not only allows for easier design and placement, but it also comes with features such as auto-fill, auto-focus, and in the future, curved object mapping.

The only drawback is in portability – however the Ultra can still be transported. There is no exposed fiber cable to break. It’s much heavier, and doesn’t have a carry handle, but you can pack it safely and carefully in a suitcase and bring it to events as needed.

xTool F1 Ultra Review Summary: So is it worth it, does it live up to expectations, etc

There is nothing like the xTool F1 Ultra on the market. Not only does it do diverse jobs, but it works incredibly on metal and is my recommendation for jewelry makers who don’t plan to dedicate a separate laser for every project type.

It is insanely fast, giving you the ability to personalize items for clients in minutes, allowing you to take on more clients.

It is not the right choice for highly specialized metal work. It is the right choice for diverse crafters who want multiple options and opportunities for taking on larger projects without investing insane amounts for each separate laser.

While some are concerned with the cost for a 20 Watt Fiber laser, it does much more than that, and is essentially at least two lasers combined in a very well-made package.

Uniqueness of this specific Fiber

Not only is this dual machine a device that allows you to cut more materials because of its dual nature, it also allows you to process certain things more officially. For example, for materials that perform best with two types of lasers, you can accomplish it using one machine.

It also has an enclosure, which means it’s safer to use in public settings an on-location (make sure you order the smoke purifier with your machine and vent it properly – even if you’re using it at home.)

And once again, because the fiber cable isn’t exposed, it’s easier to transport.

Who it’s best for

I like to finish off any review with sharing who I think this machine caters to the best – because it’s all about finding the right one for your needs.

If you need an all-in-one machine that can do as much as possible, rather than highly specialized equipment to really nail a specific material, the 20 Watt Fiber and 20 Watt Diode laser is perfect for you.

If you have limited space and want a powerful diode laser or a fiber laser that won’t take up too much desk space, this is spot on for you.

If you’re looking for a safer machine with less laser light leakage – whether it’s kids who pop into your craft space, or front-facing customers, the enclosure on the xTool F1 Ultra is a game changer.

If you’re looking for a transportable fiber laser that can be moved from place to place safely, the xTool F1 Ultra is definitely the best choice I’ve seen.

If you’re looking for a way to monetize more easily by taking on larger orders, the ability to batch produce using the xTool F1 Ultra’s fast speeds, powerful diode and fiber, and the conveyer is exactly what you need.

Final Project Gallery

Got any questions about the xTool F1 Ultra review? Comment below!

Download my free xTool F1 Ultra Review SVGs

This includes the brass heart pendant (in two to make earrings), the stainless steel circle pendant, the rose wood earrings, and the filigree acrylic earrings.

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

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The post xTool F1 Ultra Review – Dual Fiber and Diode Laser appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of Cricut. The opinions and text are all mine.

If you’re hunting for a Cricut Explore Air 2 review to help you figure out if it’s the right machine for you, I hope you enjoy my first impressions! In this post, I share how I’m getting to know my machine and what I love best about it, how to use the Cricut Explore Air 2, what kinds of projects you can create and which materials you can cut, and more! This post contains affiliate links.

A Cricut cutting machine has always been at the top of my wish list and this year, I finally had the chance to get this machine for review.

I always wondered if the Cricut Explore Air 2 would be enough for my crafting needs. My main crafts are jewelry making and paper crafting but I craft in many niches.

I love personalizing gifts.

I do hand lettering and love making signs, mugs, and decorating anything.

I am a graphic designer and incorporate 3D design into my crafts.

And I absolutely love creating felt toys for my kids.

I have never tried the Cricut Maker so I’m not going to compare machines, but I was so thrilled to find out just how versatile the Cricut Explore Air 2 machine is. It DOES cover all of my crafting needs.

The only things it doesn’t do is cut thicker materials – like wood, and it doesn’t cut unbonded fabric or soft felt. So if you sew from patterns or want to create wooden toys and decor, you’re better off with a Maker.

And now I’ll share with you an in-depth Cricut Explore Air 2 review.

How to Use Cricut Explore Air 2:

Cricut Explore Air 2 Review – Getting Started:

The Cricut Explore Air 2 is a pretty straightforward cutting machine.

On the left, you have:

• A tool cup to store your most-used tools
• A place to put physical cartridges (not needed, but if you’ve been using older Cricut machines, you may already have some)
• An “Open” button to open up your machine.

On the right you have:

• The power button
• The dial to set your material. You can do this on the machine, or you can leave it at “custom” and set a much wider range of materials from Design Space.
• A load/unload mat button
• A Cricut “C” button – that’s your Cut button
• A pause button

In the center, when the machine is open, you have:

• Two tool holders with clamps:  A is for pens and B is for your blade
• The rollers and slots to load and hold your mat
• Two storage compartments for tools. The left has a magnet that’s perfect for spare blades.

In the back you have the technical power and connectivity stuff.

Speaking of connectivity: your Cricut Explore Air 2 connects to your device using bluetooth or USB.

So how does your machine work? What is the process of creating with the Cricut Explore Air 2?

Cricut Explore Air 2 Review – Step by Step Operation:

1. Design:

The Cricut is all about design so if you’re already a designer like me, you’ll go crazy over the ability to take your ideas from paper to digital and then watch them become an actual object.

If you’re not a designer, you’ll find that it really doesn’t matter. You have so many assets that other designers have created at your fingertips and you can make something insanely cool – even if you’re not so crafty!

Your options for the design process include:

• Upload a  design: this can be an SVG file or an image that you downloaded somewhere, or something you designed yourself. I had fun designing some Hanukkah napkin rings that I’ll hopefully share the files for next year.
• Create a design in Cricut Design Space from scratch: You don’t even need any additional software to create something new! Cricut has their own design app that works on your browser, as a separate program on your computer, or even as a phone app! Even if you upload or buy a design, Design Space is where you’ll finalize it for cutting.
• Cricut Access: You can purchase project elements and images directly within Design Space. There are some free designs you can use. You can pay per design for those that aren’t free. Or, you can get Cricut Access – Cricut’s subscription-based resource library. This includes fonts, projects, and cut files in many categories. Let’s start with that Lotus flower in the top row.

Design Space works with layers. Each layer is either a cut, score, or draw layer. This flower has the petal texture drawn on!

Once you have your files set on your Design Space grid, and you’ve made your changes, you can click “make”. Design Space will then sort your designs by color onto different mats. Choose your materials and any other specifications for your project.

2. Prep Mats as shown and load:

You can now prepare your mats as Design Space shows you. I recommend using the scraper from the Basic Tool Set to smooth your material.

When the double arrow button is blinking and your machine tells you to, you can load your mat.

You can also load your blades now, and your pen if need be.

3. Watch the Machine Cut!

The boys love watching the Cricut Explore Air 2 cut! Okay, I do too.

How long it takes will depend on your project. With such a huge range in complexity, it’s hard to give an estimate.

The Cricut Explore Air 2 has a fast mode for cutting if you’re in a rush.

4. Remove your design carefully:

Once again, the tools in the Basic Tool Set help you remove your design slowly and carefully. Use the spatula to lift, the weeder to remove small elements, the tweezers to lift up edges…

You can then assemble your project as needed.

Things you can make with the Cricut Explore Air 2:

When making your first project, start in your comfort zone.

Your machine comes with the materials to make a free project you can find in Design Space: a basic card. It’s the perfect starting point because it teaches you how to use both the pen and blade.

I started by cutting some leaf shapes I found in Design Space. I glued them onto floral wire and stuck them into mason jars as a fun Thanksgiving centerpiece.

It took me minutes to put together!

Once you’re comfortable with how the machine works, start exploring crafts you never thought you could make before.

What you can make with the Cricut Explore Air 2:

So who is the Cricut Explore Air 2 for? Which crafts can you make with it?

The truth is, the best way to see is to simply search for Cricut ideas online and you’ll see just how far you can go. But here are a few crafting niches that the Cricut Explore Air 2 can really transform:

• Cardmaking and scrapbooking – you won’t need to buy embellishments anymore! You can cut letters, shapes, and more, “hand-letter” your cards, add elements like vinyl and felt.
• Jewelry making – Whether you want to make faux leather drop earrings, or a layered paper pendant, the Cricut gets you an accuracy and sharpness that’s hard to get otherwise.
• Customized apparel – With iron-on vinyl being a huge thing for Cricut crafters, you have probably seen customized shirts, bodysuits, and more.
• Home decor and housewares – Customize mugs, plates, pillow cases, and more using iron-on vinyl. Make DIY stencils to paint custom signs, or  to use with fabric paint on home textiles.
• Planner stickers – Cricut’s “Print then cut” feature (see below) allows you to print and then cut your own planner stickers! This is a HUGE money-saver, plus you can have just the stickers you want!
• Labels and decals – Label your pantry, your kids’ toys, your life with vinyl. Print on vinyl and make removable car decals or wall decals.
• Paper flowers – This highly popular craft can be radically transformed with a Cricut Explore Air 2. Better precision and the complete elimination of one of the most tedious aspects of paper flower making gives you more time and energy for the fun, creative part!
• Paper toys – once again, you get more precision when you cut templates, allowing you to make better – and easier – paper toys.
• Adult coloring – Using the pen feature, you can actually “draw” coloring pages onto 12×12 card stock or multi-media paper, and turn it into beautiful paintings by filling it in yourself with paint.

This is just a drop in the bucket of what you can make with the Cricut Explore Air 2. Want to know if it works with your craft? Drop your question in the comments.

Cricut Explore Air 2 review- What you can cut:

There are so so many things you can cut that I’m not going to list them all here. The point of this Cricut Explore Air 2 review is to help you decide if this is a machine that’s worth it for you. So here are some of the more popular materials, with a few unique and obscure ones, so you can get an idea.

How you cut each one is different. You’ll get guidance as to which mats and which tools to use as you create your projects, but I’ll include some at the end of this Cricut Explore Air 2 review.

• Paper
• Cardstock
• Sticker paper
• Aluminum foil
• Duct tape
• Faux leather
• Felt
• Bonded fabric
• Burlap
• Vinyl
• Iron-on and HTV (heat transfer vinyl)
• Cricut Infusible Ink products
• Vellum
• Freezer paper
• Craft Foam
• Magnet sheet

How to print with the Cricut Explore Air 2:

Whenever I try to craftsplain to people what the machine can do, they always ask “is the Cricut also a printer?”

The answer is no.

But it does coordinate with your printing needs so that you can cut out printed items precisely. This feature is called “Print then cut”.

Print then Cut works hand-in-hand with your home printer through the Design Space software.

Cricut Explore Air 2 Review – How Print then Cut works:

To Print then cut, you’ll need to upload your design as a print then cut file. Cricut Design Space will then send your file to your printer first. It’ll add “registration marks” in the form of a box around your design.

Registration marks are the Cricut machine’s calibration guide to know where exactly your design will be on the paper and how to cut it.

Because of this, the size that you can “print then cut” is limited so you’ll need to think smaller with your sheet size.

Print then Cut is perfect for creating your own labels, planner stickers, and more.

Is the Cricut Explore Air 2 worth it? Which tools and accessories should I start with?

Is the Cricut Explore Air 2 worth it?

I very much regret that I did not get this machine sooner.

Not only is it money-saving in that I can create personalized gifts and decor out of dollar store items, but it would have saved me so many hours of work in projects I’m creating anyway.

If you’re earning money off your crafts in any way, time is money, and it may even pay for itself.

If you’re not, but you like to DIY gifts, it’s definitely worth it.

If you tend to spend on seasonal decor that you can easily make yourself, the Cricut Explore Air 2 is for you.

And finally, if you don’t like the tedious parts of your craft but spend a lot of time on it, and want to spend more time creating, then the Cricut Explore Air 2 is perfect for you – even if you’re not selling your craft.

Cricut Explore Air 2 review: What should I get with my first machine?

The accessories you’ll want will depend on what you plan to make. Here are some top accessories to get with your first machine, or to bundle the Cricut Explore Air 2 with if you’re gifting it:

• The Basic Tool Set – a must-have for any type of craft!
• Mat variety pack – your machine comes with the Lightgrip mat. I’d recommend getting the 3-pack of light, medium, and heavy, especially if you craft across niches. If you’re only paper crafting, the light grip is enough, but you may want a couple of extras so that you can prepare the next color while the first is working, in case one needs cleaning, etc.
• Deep point blade – if you plan to cut thicker materials like faux leather.

• Solid color packs of your top materials – whether you plan to cut vinyl, felt, or card stock, I’d recommend starting with a couple of solid multi-packs.
• Scoring Stylus – If you’re a paper crafter this is a must to make your projects easy to fold!
• Pens – once again, if you plan to do lots of paper crafts, card-making, or any kind of writing, you may want to toss in a pack of pens in different colors.

Stay tuned for some Cricut projects coming up and more helpful articles!

Do you have any questions or anything to add to my Cricut Explore Air 2 review? Which projects are your favorite to make? Check out the whole Cricut lineup here and comment below!

The post Cricut Explore Air 2 Review and How to Use it appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

The last in my series of sewing machine reviews, this list is designed to help you choose the best sewing machine for professionals. Not to be confused with heavy duty fabric use – for those look for the best heavy duty sewing machine – these were chosen for durability with heavy use, consistency and professional stitching, and the ability to be specialized to your product and needs. Tip: find my best sewing machine reviews of individual needs to find the machine that best suits yours! This post contains affiliate links.

When searching for professional machines, most of them are designed to be more specific to a purpose. They don’t have beginner functions, and are purely functional. Most professionals will have more than one machine with specialized functions for each machine.

So if you’re looking for a more multi-purpose commercial grade machine check out my list of the best semi professional sewing machines.

I chose five top picks at different price points and with different key features. I truly hope this helps you find the best sewing machine for professionals- whether it’s for your home sewing business, your shop, or whatever you need it for!

Many professional sewing machines are straight stitch machines, so make sure that’s good for you before buying.

Since there is a lot to absorb when comparing machines, I highlighted the main selling point for each machine as well as the price point and the SPM – the stitches per minute sewing speed.

Each machine has majorly different features, so if there’s something important to you that wasn’t mentioned here, just click through and read through the features!

I’d also recommend if you’re looking for a professional machine primarily for quilting to check out my list of the best sewing machine for quilting since that needs its own set of features.

I also provided links for Sewing Machines Plus and Amazon where relevant so that you can compare descriptions, features, and of course prices.

Price guide:

I’m trying something new for this post and including a general pricing guide so you can know which range each best sewing machine for professionals falls into. I don’t like to share exact prices because they can change and there’s no way I can keep it 100% up to date, so this is a great way to know if it falls into your general budget.

$: 0-499

$$: 500-1499

$$$: 1500-4999

$$$$: 5000-9999

$$$$$: 10,000+

The best sewing machine for professionals – top 5:

TheSINGER 191D-30 Complete Industrial Commercial-Grade Straight-Stitch Sewing Machine:

Price: $$

Speed: 4000 SPM (stitches per minute)

Main Selling Point: Complete assembled machine with table, at an affordable price point. It’s got a suepr fast stitch speed too.

Description: Ideal for medium-to-heavy fabrics, this rockstar machine has a heavy duty motor that also tackles multiple layers with ease. It self-lubricates and has a large sewing space for larger projects.

Get it on  Amazon

Brother PQ 1500SL High-Speed Quilting and Sewing Machine

Price: $$

Speed: 1500 SPM

Main Selling Point: The price and the multi-function features. It’s great for large-scale projects and problem fabrics.

Description: This might belong more in the semi-professional category, but I had to include one more affordable option here for those of you who simply wanted something more durable that’s appropriate for commercial use – but don’t have a huge budget.

It also comes with the Brother exclusive pin-feed mechanism for improved fabric management.

Get it on Sewing Machines Plus   |   Amazon

Juki DDL-8700 Servo Motor Straight Stitch Sewing Machine

Price: $$

Speed: 5500 SPM

Main Selling Point: Price and Servo Motor

Description: A hardcore, rugged, no frills machine, the Juki DDL-8700 is considered one of the best walking ideal for medium to heavy materials on a tight budget. It’s got a large throat and can be purchased fully assembled with a table and Servo Motor.

Get it on Sewing Machines Plus (assembled)   |   Amazon (not assembled)

Juki DDL8700-7-WB AK CP18 Auto Backtack Thread Trim Foot Lift Machine/Stand

Price: $$$

Stitch Speed: 5500 SPM

Main Selling Point: Flexible sewing that responds well to different material types. This is a great choice for professionals who need something a bit more versatile!

Description: An industrial lockstitch machine with a high speed, generous throat, and automatic adjustments to different fabric types, this machine is the perfect mid-range best sewing machine for professionals! Its consistent tension features give quality stitches. It comes fully assembled with table and motor.

Get it on Sewing Machines Plus   |   Amazon

Juki DNU-1541-7 Single Needle Lockstitch Machine with Table & Servo Motor (Table Comes Assembled)

Price: $$$$

Speed: 3000

Main Selling Point: Its advanced features allow you to sew multiple layers of thick fabrics without losing your consistency. Basically, it does the heaviest duty jobs without a hiccup.

Here’s a quick demo:

And a more in-depth review:

Description: This top-of-the-line single needle machine doesn’t have as fast speeds as some of the other industrials but it does have more versatility  and advanced features. IT’s considered one of the best industrial walking foot sewing machines. It’s got Juki’s unique rectangular feeding motion that allows it to climb up layers of fabric, greatly reducing gathered stitches.

Get it on Sewing Machines Plus   |   Amazon

Which do you think is the best sewing machine for professionals? Got any questions to ask the community? Comment below!

The post Best Sewing Machine for Professionals appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When looking for the best semi professional sewing machine for this list, I focused on machines that might look standard or at least be a more moderate sized, streamlined machine – but have the features that professionals need.

For sewing machines for beginners, I focused more on affordability, ease of use, and crafty features. For the best semi professional sewing machine, the more important features are good foot pressure, lower thread tension, the variety of feet for the projects you’ll need, as well as the capability to produce better, more professional seams.

This is not to be confused with the best heavy duty sewing machines – focusing on features for sewing heavier fabrics.

However, sewing machines are so nuanced, you’ll need to really look into your specific needs. The candidates for the best semi professional sewing machine were chosen because they’ll fit most semi professional needs, produce professional results – and you won’t need to take out a loan to buy them! You also won’t need an extra room in the house for these.

I love Sewing Machines Plus for purchasing machines – they have experts ready to answer your questions, find the machine for your specific needs, and they are tax free in most areas – which can save you a LOT!!

They also offer free shipping over $49, ship quickly, offer financing options in case you can’t front it right away, and have a 60 day money back guarantee.

1. BASIC PICK: Consew 7360R-7DD Sewing Machine with Assembled Table and Motor

Want something sturdy, industrial, without all the bells and whistles? I decided to start with a machine that’s all work and no play – a sturdy straight-stitch machine with basic automation features, a powerful motor, and high speeds.

This machine is the best semi professional sewing machine that’s more heavy duty too that won’t take over your home! It’s a high speed straight stitch machine perfect for sewing all sorts of garments in different fabric weights.

It has automatic reverse and automatic lubrication makes it easier to maintain. It can handle light to heavy weight fabrics.

Key features:

• Noise and vibration absorbing table mounting
• Automatic reverse
• Treadle controlled foot lifter
• Included motor type: Servo motor
• Electric thread clamp (holds thread after thread trim)
• Maximum speed: 5000 SPM
• Digital stitch counter
• Comes with a fully assembled table and motor

For more details, check out the detailed product specs and features on the listing itself:

Sewing Machines Plus

2. TOP PICK:  Juki DDL-9000C Series Industrial Sewing Machines with Table and Motor – FMS:

Prefer ALL the bells and whistles?

This is on the higher end of the best semi professional sewing machine options, with the ability to go fully digital. It’s feature-rich with an industrial build. This is the priciest option on this list but you get the best of all worlds here in a solid, high speed machine that has all the features you want to complete a variety of tasks. It’s as fast as the Consew above (5000SPM) but has way more features.

This fully-featured semi-professional sewing machine is perfect for when you want something sturdy that’ll do all your most difficult tasks. It’s a wonderful investment for dressmakers, tailors, and seamstresses who value precision and workmanship.

It also takes the brainwork out of things for you by computing the optimal settings for your task, detecting the material thickness using a sensor, and allowing you to save settings for later use.

All these fancy features accomplish the one thing you need in the best semi professional sewing machine: consistent seams and sewing quality.

If you’re looking to set up shop professionally, have stellar workmanship, and need something that’ll really work well for everything you need, this is the semi-pro sewing machine of choice.

Key Features:

• Make sure you choose the right model. the FMS is full digital, with digital control of all features. The SMS is digital type. The features listed here are for the FMS.
• Sensor detects your material thickness!
• Save sewing data and settings from project to project.
• 4.3 inch touch color LCD panel
• Needle thread tension: active
• Presser foot pressure is electronically controlled
• 517×178mm bed
• Digital feed horizontal and vertical
• Adjustable feed locus
• Optional table comes fully assembled

For more details, check out the detailed product specs and features on the listing itself:

Sewing Machines Plus   |    Amazon

Watch the video:

3. AFFORDABLE PICK: Janome Memory Craft 6300 Professional Sewing & Quilting Machine:

If you’re looking for a feature rich, basic computerized sewing AND quilting machine, this is the machine of choice. You can say it takes a little bit from each of the first two options on the list – more features, but not fully digital. It’s less heavy duty than other options but perfect for those getting started with professional sewing, who want quilting features too.

This is great if the Juki above was appealing to you but want to spend less. 

It’s also great if you want to spend less and have on machine that can do more types of tasks – more of a “do it all” than a “specialized” machine.

Key features:

• Features a generous quilting extension table
• 66 stitches + four buttonholes
• Your main buttons are conveniently placed so that you can snip threads, control speeds, and more easily
• Maximum speed – Straight stitch: 1,000 spm; Zigzag stitch: 700 spm
• Automatic thread cutter with memory
• Stitch editing
• Speed control lever and visible pressure gauge for better accuracy
• External feed balancing dial

Notable review:

“This sewing machine has been a dream! It has a zigzag stitch (which is rare for a long arm machine), will handle very thick layers of fabric, has enough room in the work space to sew a decent sized project, and is very intuitive. It is easy to figure out, comes with every foot you could imagine (except the piping foot and gathering foot), and is very quiet. Overall I would recommend this machine to someone who sews a lot of large projects but doesn’t need hundreds of decorative stitches. It does everything I need it to do and I have not had a single problem with it yet!”

For more details, check out the detailed product specs and features on the listing itself:

Sewing Machines Plus   |   Amazon

Which is your top pick for the best semi professional sewing machine? Which features are you looking for? Comment below!

The post Best Semi Professional Sewing Machine appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

In this article, I will share with you some ideas, some tips, and some extremely valuable resources to help you launch your online handmade shop. You can also check out my top crafts to make and sell online for some inspiration.

Disclosure: this post contains commissioned links.

But it’s not as easy as it sounds…

Here’s a classic scenario. Sam is a stay at home mom/dad. (S)he has been creative all of his/her life. (S)he was the crafter and artist of the family, always knitting someone something, going through a scrapbooking phase, and handmaking every birthday gift.

Sam sees some really adorable knit baby photo props on Etsy. (S)he knows (s)he can make them just as well if not better. So Sam knits up five, lists them on Etsy, and waits for them to sell.

I can pinpoint roughly 8 mistakes that Sam made when researching selling crafts online:

1. (S)he started with something (s)he saw online.
2. (S)he chose a craft that is not efficient to produce (more on that later.)
3. (S)he may or may not be a parent – but even if (s)he is, his/her baby will soon no longer be a baby.
4. (S)he looked on Etsy for inspiration, instead of on his/her friends social media accounts.
5. (S)he is limiting his/her scope of how (s)he can make it to quality.
6. (S)he started with five.
7. (S)he started by listing them on Etsy.
8. (S)he waited instead of taking further action.

Now before we elaborate on Sam’s mistakes, I’ll walk you through the process that you should take instead. Then we’ll revisit Sam’s scenario and discuss how (s)he SHOULD have done it.

 Tip: Read through this and take notes. And then bookmark it. Treat it like a step-by-step course, and revisit this post as you complete it. Comment below with any questions you have along the way.

You’ll see that this post on selling crafts online includes links to various articles. I summarized each one in short for you but do read through each one in-depth! It  was simply too long to include in one post.

Choosing the right craft for selling crafts online:

Most crafters, when choosing their inventory for selling crafts online, don’t think too much about what they’ll sell. They just take whatever their crafting comfort zone is, and sell that.

However, when it comes to labor vs. market value, there are certain niches where craftsmanship isn’t valued in the same way, and where pricing scales for non-designer markets can be very limited.

So sometimes you need to think outside the box.

If you’re a crafter who is used to creating different types of crafts (like me) you can adjust the craft you choose to sell accordingly.

If you really have a niche specialty, you may need to think outside the box. For example, you can sell patterns for your knits, create quick knit accessories (such as bows) that others can use in their crafts, etc.

There’s more to it than just pricing: there’s repeatability. While I used to take pride in one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces, my one listing went to bed the second someone bought it, and I spent too much time on just creating Etsy listings.

I ended up focusing on my graphic design and illustration skills in my Etsy shop. Today, I sell items that require no order fulfillment on my part on multiple websites (Etsy, Gumroad and my own website craftwithanything.com, as well as various Print on Demand websites)

You can read all about the best crafts to sell online as well as how to choose which craft to sell in your Etsy shop in-depth here.

Setting up your shop for selling crafts online:

The next step is to set up your Etsy shop for success. Listing an item is not something that’s likely to lead to a sale – unless you’re directly driving your friends and family to the shop, in which case, the well will dry up quickly.

You want to think of your Etsy shop the same way as anyone who is setting up a storefront – you’re building a whole storefront.

Start with 40 free listings from Etsy (for new shopowners).

Build that up to at least 100 listings.

Now, consider your brand. Consider your shop, what it looks like, and how people can trust you as a company selling crafts online.

Read in-depth on how to set up an Etsy shop for success!

Making it sell:

Once your shop is set up, your job isn’t done. Running and maintaining an Etsy shop, or any online shop, is a full-time job (or whatever you make it – but it’s not a “set up and go” endeavor).

You want to build up a brand off Etsy and create a social media marketing plan.

My best advice is to work up a strong email list. One disadvantage of selling on Etsy is that they don’t exactly allow you to cultivate an email list through their platform, even among those who have already purchased from you. This makes it harder to retain customers.

Building up an email list through a platform like ConvertKit (the tool that I personally use) is a wonderful way to cultivate a community of true fans of your product. This works especially for niche products, or audiences.

You should definitely read my tips for selling on Etsy and marketing your shop in depth.

Two final tips for selling crafts online:

1. Protect yourself!

If you’re new to conducting serious business online, you may not have looked into digital protection much. In this post I share some tips for how to stop hackers.

2. Make sure you price well.

Pricing is a biggie. To help you through it, I created some crafting calculators as well as tools to help you strategize how you build your shop. You can get my full Etsy shop planner below:

Let’s revisit Sam’s experience selling crafts online:

Remember our good friend Sam? Let’s rewrite his/her story now that we know the right way to go about selling crafts online.

Sam is really good at designing home decor from upcycled pallets. (S)he knows that it’s hard to find those with a bit of glam, so (s)he adds some shiny copper touches to his/hers.

Sam finds a source that can supply pallets to him/her regularly at a low price and a source for his/her copper findings. (S)he makes a few samples of planters, end tables, and shelves and posts them on his/her personal Facebook page and in a few home decor and interior design groups that (s)he’s already in.

People like the end tables and shelves but not the planters, so (s)he realizes the finishes might not be a match for those types of products. (S)he designs a few more shapes and styles of shelves, adds some hammered brass to the mix, and creates a serving tray, a dining table, and a desk. (S)he realizes that the dining table isn’t sustainable to repeat regularly and that she needs to focus more on lower ticket items with the occasional piece of furniture. (S)he posts these in groups, gets the right feedback, and is ready to set up his/her shop.

(S)he tweaks her product until (s)he has 50 repeatable designs to list. (S)he knows (s)he can’t create 100 totally different products, but (s)he can change sizes and placement or color of the fittings so (s)he makes it to 50. Since his/her product is larger, it’s harder for him/her to do the full 100 I recommended and maintain quality, so Sam correctly chooses to stick with something (s)he CAN manage, while maintaining a solid shop.

Now, Sam brainstorms a name with friends and family, buys the domain name, reserves the Instagram handle and Etsy shop name, and designs a few logos. (S)he narrows it down to one (s)he loves and starts building a rustic-chic interior design inspiration group. (S)he is ready to start selling crafts online!

(S)he builds her Etsy shop, takes care of the sales tax logistics and all the other legal stuff, and is ready to start selling. (S)he sets up his/her website and features a beautiful gallery, a link to her shop, and possibly a blog for updates and for newsletter opt-ins.

(S)he sets up a website with ConvertKit and creates a series of emails for people who opt-in for the discount code, as well as one for a “free printable room design cheat sheet” opt-in.  (S)he adds a pop-up form to his/her site, offering a 20% discount code for those who subscribe for updates. (S)he adds a blog post with the opt-in for the printable cheat sheet.

(S)he reaches out to a few home decor bloggers whose homes would fit and offers them a beautiful tray (one of her easiest products to reproduce) in exchange for an Instagram post, tagging his/her handle and disclosing with the #ad hashtag that it’s sponsored. In his/her pitch, (s)he does mention that (s)he sells on Etsy so that they can earn a commission off any sales, providing additional benefit to the bloggers.

Sam keeps on marketing his/her product and slowly builds his/her handmade business, sending regular “style guide” newsletters featuring his/her products and offering value to his/her ideal consumer.

Sam is a happy, successful crafter who has quit his/her 9-5 to stay at home with the kids, and loves doing what (s)he does – selling crafts online!

Isn’t that the dream?

What are your best tips for selling crafts online? Comment below!

The post Selling Crafts Online: How to Earn Money off your creativity appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When pricing handmade goods, I used a basic formula:

1. I set an hourly rate for myself.
2. I figured out roughly how much it cost me to make it (in bulk). I multiplied that amount by 2 (my markup rate). This is $$ amount #1.
3. I timed a crafting session and figured out how long it took me to make that bulk amount. I also figured out the average time it took to manage this (make Etsy listings, fulfill each order, etc). I converted that into a dollar amount by multiplying the amount of time it took me to make it by my hourly rate. This is dollar amount #2.
4. I added the two dollar amounts for my bulk price.
5. I divided the bulk price by the quantity I produced in that time. That gave me my individual product cost.
6. Now that was NOT my final rate for a simple reason: it doesn’t take into account market values. At this point, I looked at the number and I made up a price.

So I’m sure you have a question now. Why use a crafting calculator at all?

If I’m going to make up a price anyway, why go through the hassle of doing all that freaking math?!

The answer is simple: you have to have a handle on what it costs you, both time and supplies-wise to be able to make up your price. You also have to have a handle on market rates, what people pay, and what your bottom line will be.

When I first started selling stuff, I didn’t bother with a handmade jewelry price calculator.

Here’s what happened:

I figured I can make a cheap pair of earrings. It cost me roughly 50 cents in quantity supplies and took me an hour to make ten pairs.

So if I sold it for $5 I was cutting a good profit, right?

I nearly went nuts with this. I wasn’t taking into account the cost of trial and error, the fact that I was investing in supplies, not all of which gets used. This is why I now markup the cost and charge a bigger hourly rate.

I also didn’t calculate running time and costs:

• Packaging/shipping supplies
• Customer service
• Making Etsy listings
• Etsy’s take and listing costs
• Time it takes to package and ship
• Occasional sales and markdowns

You’re getting my drift.

And here’s the thing. There’s always going to be something that you’ll leave out of your crafting calculator.

Complaining customers. Remaking an order that got lost in transit. The price of craft show tables. Variables that you can’t predict.

So if you’re going to calculate a rate that’s going to pay off for your, you’ll have to double up: have an hourly rate and a supplies markup rate. You’re going to have to bump that rate up a few bucks to make up for unpredictable variables, especially on smaller items.

And here’s where the questions comes in: What if the crafting calculator prices just. don’t. add. up? What if it tells me to charge $150 for a pair of gloves?

Here are a few crafting calculator tips:

1. If the time cost is what’s ruining you, bump up the quality of the materials for a more premium product. Make those gloves cashmere… Even if it means raising your prices even more. You can’t afford to make a budget product with that time cost.
2. Take the opposite approach. Bump down the production of the product. Make what I’d call micro-products. For example, if you crochet wire jewelry, and make elaborate creations, try filling your shop out with more inexpensive chain crochet jewelry instead or as a more budget-friendly alternative.
3. Focus on education. That’s what I personally started doing – selling my jewelry making book, selling crafting printables and coloring pages and most of all, focusing on this blog. It’s also a personal preference (even once I started seeing success, I didn’t enjoy selling jewelry. I’d rather teach people how to make jewelry.)

I elaborated more on how to choose a craft to sell online here.

Meanwhile, I created an extremely valuable resource for you. This crafting calculator has got two versions:

1. The Freebie: The Pricing Calculator Chart:

Every time I design a freebie I end up getting out of hand, and creating something so big I can’t possibly offer it for free. However, I haven’t forgotten your free download!

This simple formula is a list/table format so you can have it all at a glance. Use it according to the guidelines in this post.

It’s designed to use with bulk production, but you can do it for single products by skipping the quantity column.

• Column 1: list your products, indenting variations below the main product.
• Column 2: write the number you came up with as your “time cost” for that product (hourly rate x hours it took).
• Column 3: write the number you came up with as your “materials cost” for that product (actually supplies cost x markup rate).
• Column 4: add up column 2+3 for your bulk production cost.
• Column 5: write down the amount of product you created in that time – how much bulk you based your time and materials on.
• Column 6: divide column 4 by column 5 for the individual product cost.
• Column 7: jot down a price based on column 6, similar products in the market, and any other variables in place.

2. The Full Pricing Guide and Crafting Calculator:

This full bundle includes a more comprehensive workbook for creating your product line and pricing it. I created all this on a dot grid because I personally LOVE using dot grids for planning. They are much more open with how you can use them, but still neat enough for those who can’t just keep a straight line without guides.

Here’s how the crafting calculator works:

• Use the individual product pricing calculator to do invaluable research on what the cost is for you, research other niche products.
• Use the table to list the results and breakdown of your products so you have it ready at a glance. I offer this for free above, however it works so much better when you have the worksheet for the individual products as well, so that you can refer back to your research if needed.

• Use the brainstorming sheet to… brainstorm. I take you through the full process of figuring out how to choose products from the problem solving angle too, not just the pricing calculator.
• I also included a bonus notes sheet with a plain dot grid. I like this for more visual planning and jotting down anything that doesn’t’ fit on the other pages.

• I also included a 2-page use guide.

>>>GET THE FULL CRAFTING CACULATOR AND WORKBOOK HERE!<<<

How to use the crafting calculator:

• Print out one page of the individual pricing calculator for each product (I recommend you aim for 100 listings to really establish a solid Etsy shop).
• Print 1 table for every ten products/every shop section, or however you want to organize it.
• Place them in a binder in or out of sheet protectors.
• Add a brainstorming page and a note page for each table page.
• Add dividers for each section/set of ten.
• Keep this binder handy. Check in on sales monthly, see how to adjust it, how to plan new seasonal goods.

 I shared more tips for selling on Etsy, so definitely read through those too! I also shared a post on how to set up an Etsy shop for success, where I share more about listings, and more that’ll help you use this crafting caculator the best way possible.

>>>GET THE FULL CRAFTING CACULATOR AND WORKBOOK HERE!<<<

The post Crafting Calculator – Handmade Jewelry Price Calculator appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This is a sponsored post written by me on behalf of Kaspersky Lab for IZEA Worldwide. All opinions are 100% mine.

As a “creative entrepreneur”, a work at home mom who has made crafting my full-time-job thanks to the power of the internet. It is always a concern for me to make sure I know how to stop hackers from destroying everything I’ve worked so hard for. In this post, I will share with you some tips for protecting your small business. This is a continuation of my Selling Crafts Online series that you have all been enjoying!

As a crafty entrepreneur, digital safety is a huge issue for me.

The vast majority of my business interactions happen online, and if one hacker successfully takes over this website, a good chunk of my family’s income is at stake. Social media is also a large factor in my crafty business, and so I am always concerned with social media hostage situations.

For that reason, I have taken a few easy extra steps to protect myself and my family from cyber risks and wanted to share with you some tips on how to stop hackers and do the same.

Kaspersky Lab, The World’s Most Awarded Security, is a brand I trust to protect my business. Between the Password Manager application and the regular scans, detection of suspicious (phishing) links and sites, and data encryption of my important documents, my digital life and my family’s income is much more secure.

How to stop hackers – know what the risks look like:

The first step to working out how to stop hackers is to recognize where they catch you. Here are a few examples of where risks can come from.

1. Email Links

I recently heard a fellow creative entrepreneur share how she clicked on an email link that looked legitimately like those she receives dozens of a day.

That link prompted her to insert a password on what looked like a clone of a social media website, but essentially recorded her login information.

A hacker then gained access, locked her out, and held her social media hostage. She had to pay a huge fee to have it released. The social media website wouldn’t help her despite proof of ID, and the hacker threatened to delete the account if the ransom wasn’t paid.

To protect her business, she had to pay a large fee.

Hackers get cleverer every day, and they disguise their emails and websites to look like brands we trust. This leads me to the next digital safety concern:

2. Scare tactics

Hackers use scare tactics to bully their victims into paying exorbitant ransoms. They are aware that when your income relies on these accounts, it’ll be worth your while to pay their fees.

They also use scare tactics to get your login information. The classic scare tactic comes in the form of a private message from a clone account of the social network you’re on. They let you know that if you don’t click a certain link (which then prompts you to “re-enter your password”) your account will be deleted.

Often, the scare looks just like the “real deal” so if you’re working through things quickly you might not realize it’s a clone.

3. Risky Websites

Using some of the same methods as above (emails, and scare tactics), scammers might try to get you to visit an infected, unsafe website to insert malware on your device.

4. The silent threats:

As a self-employed entrepreneur, you probably need to fill out lots of tax forms, W-9 forms, and other forms with your social security information.

Storing it locally on your computer without proper protection puts you at risk of identity theft.

You also probably do a lot of online banking and transactions.

Sometimes you can’t even see the leak or the threat until it’s too late!

5. Saved passwords in your browser:

The more websites we use, the more services we use, the more we store in our browser… because who can really remember all those passwords?

And I dunno about you, but I’m pretty obsessed with getting the “green” on password strength for each new one I create…

But having our passwords stored locally leaves us at risks. And since craft sellers like me do a lot of online transactions and banking, we’re especially at risk if our accounts are hacked.

How to stop hackers – Internet security tips and steps to take:

All it takes is a few easy steps and tips on how to stop hackers and your business is much more secure! Now that you know the risks, you’re equipped to stop them.

1. Install Kaspersky Security:

Every creative entrepreneur needs an internet security provider they can trust. It’s one of the most critical steps I’ve taken in protecting my online business, and the most critical tip on how to stop hackers.

Kaspersky Total Security or Kaspersky Small Office Security can:

• Protect from ransomware
• Stop data leaks
• Block spyware from viewing online transactions
• Do complete scans to detect any kind of malware that compromises our privacy
• Block bad websites
• Prevent creepy webcam spies

2. Set strong passwords and use a secure password manager:

No more browser-stored passwords! Kaspersky Password Manager encrypts them and stores them locally, so you just need to remember one master password.

It syncs between your devices, and is easy to set up.You can import all your stored passwords from your browsers, and use it with the same ease.

3. Setup 2 factor authentication on all social media channels:

Always set up “2 factor authentication” on all your email and social media channels to give hackers a harder time. This requires you to approve from an already approved browser any time someone tries to log in from a new one.

It’s an extra layer of protection, although not foolproof if they manage to get hold of a code sent to your phone.

That’s why you need to protect your phone as well, with anti-theft features, in case it gets stolen. Kaspersky helps with that as well, allowing you to mark it “lost” from your My Kaspersky account. This will activate any anti-theft features that you chose including:

• Locking your device and turning on location so that you can track it
• Turning on an alarm
• Taking photos from the phone so that you can catch that theif
• Hiding personal data such as contacts and… text messages!
• Wipe personal information that you don’t want the thief to view.

4. Utilize File Encryption to protect your personal information:

Speaking of personal information, how about all those W-9s with your social security info you have stored on your computer?

Kaspersky allows you to create encrypted folders that can only be accessed with a password. You can lock up your tax forms, or any other personal data that you don’t want to share with the world.

5. Cover all your bases:

Kaspersky Security Cloud brings these features to the cloud, and also helps protect your WiFi network. It also helps optimize your devices so they run smoothly and efficiently.

It helps you be safer on the go, turning on secure VPN while you email from that airport lounge, and protecting your device if you misplace it.

6. Keep everything up to date:

Update everything! Whether it’s plugins on your website, or apps on your phone, plugins are often there to stop leaks.

Hackers often look for a way in via out-of-date software so make sure you keep your life up to date.

Got any additional tips for creative small business owners on how to stop hackers? Comment below!

The post How to Stop Hackers – Digital Security for Creative Entrepreneurs appeared first on Moms and Crafters.