It’s amazing to me that I haven’t even finished sharing my daughter’s dress up party from last year (you can see our dress up station here) and I’m already working hard on sharing her next birthday – a sleepover party! I designed this heart keychain laser file as a fun and inexpensive party favor to hand out, however, I figured I need to share it in time for Valentine’s Day because it’s perfect for that!

These are so quick and easy to engrave, cut, and put together and they use inexpensive basswood plywood sheets. And yes, you can also use acrylic! But I’m getting ahead of myself – let’s go through the details of this heart keychain laser file so you’ll know how to use it well!

How to Use This Heart Keychain Laser File

Laser Cutting them

These are designed for laser engraving and cutting. I used myLaserPecker LX2 – my full-sized Diode laser engraver. You can read my full review of the LaserPecker LX2 here and of course, I’ll share full tips for how to do it below. Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Ultimately, laser engraving these gives you a ready-to-go result. You just pull them off the engraver, assemble them in minutes, and you have a finished product. It’s the best way – but not the only way to use this heart keychain laser file.

Cricut Crafting Variations

You CAN Cricut craft these! If you have a Maker, use the knife blade to cut it from wood. You can use a pen to draw the design right onto wood (I share how to do this in this or balsa wood Cricut tutorial). The design an outline so it’ll go over the whole thing twice – which will make it nice and bold.

Cricut cutting wood is quite inefficient but doable, so definitely opt for a laser if you can!

Some more ideas for how to Cricut craft this heart keychain laser file:

• Engrave leather bookmarks with the details, and cut them from leather. You may want to mirror the design as well to make it two-sided for added sturdiness.
• Cut the design from vinyl and attach them to round acrylic keychain blanks. You can make a two layer design with the details. You will need to remove the hole.
• Slice the details from the base design and make it from vinyl on a keychain blank. You’ll once again need to remove the hole.
• Same as the above – but try it from stiff felt and glue it onto a wooden keychain base.
• Engrave the design using your Cricut on an acrylic keychain blank (learn how to engrave acrylic on the Cricut here.)

There are so many ways you can use this heart SVG – you’ll just need to be a bit more creative!

More ways to finish them off

I added tassels that actually came with my acrylic keychain blanks to these. They are simple leatherette tassels – and yes, you can make your own leather tassels too!

Some more ways to finish this off and make it polished:

• Paint the wood before cutting and engraving. Use basic acrylic paint. I kind of regret not doing this.
• You can stain and/or seal your keychains after as well. If painting, use a thin wash and make sure it doesn’t fully color the insets.
• Leave it unfinished and let recipients color it themselves with paint markers (this is great if you’re making this for a party!)
• Use fun colorful keychains.
• Add hanging beaded charms to the keychians.

I made this on a whim with what I had but you can absolutely craft it cooler than I did!

Cutting this Heart Keychain Laser File on a Laser Engraver

I used my LaserPecker LX2 to engrave and cut these and I have so many tips for how you can do this. I used this laser as the best suited for the job, because it has a large bed, and as a gantry laser, you get good smooth cuts. In addition, the air assist feature helps minimize charring that often happens on wood.

Which type of laser can cut these?

Any Diode, CO2, or UV laser can cut wood. If crafting from acrylic, Diode lasers work beautifully on many shades of red and pink (read: which colors acrylic can a Diode laser cut for more tips on doing this).

A gantry style laser (the kind with a large bed and a module that moves around on a track) is better suited to cutting jobs than a galvo (the more compact kind where the laser moves around using mirrors – like the LaserPecker LP5 I reviewed here) because you get a straight-down cut, vs. the angled cut on a galvo.

It’s small enough that you CAN cut it on galvo lasers, and there are no parts that need to fit together. So it’ll cut very nicely on both types, although more efficiently on a gantry.

More cutting tips and tricks

While I made some mistakes on earlier rounds and did better on later rounds, I figured I’d offer you feedback on how to better cut this. If you’re new to laser engraving, I recommend you read my tips and guide for engraving wood with a laser where I share so much advice.

Meanwhile, here are some pointers:

• Score don’t engrave – on my earlier ones, I engraved the design. On later ones, I scored it. This moved so much faster and made a better line, while still retaining all the detail. Since the details are quite fine, it didn’t look outlined.
• Air assist – I sometimes forget to turn on air assist. If you have that feature, it can get you such a fabulous, clean finish, without charring.
• Secure your wood – If cutting multiples, it’s always worth taping or clamping down the wood you’re working with, just in case it shifts.
• Paint first – as I mentioned above, I regretted not adding a couple of coats of paint to the wood before cutting and engraving.
• Mask your wood – If you don’t have air assist, masking the wood with masking tape sheets first can help get you a cleaner cut. You may need to adjust your settings a bit to get the result you want through the tape.

How to make your keychains using the Heart Keychain Laser File SVG

This tutorial is based very specifically on how I crafted it. Of course, adjust for any of the variations I shared above.

Supplies Needed

• 3mm Basswood Sheets
• Laser Engraver (I used the LaserPecker LX2)
• Keychains
• Pliers
• Tassels

Process

1. Upload your file to your laser software and resize it to the size you want. Set the outline and hole to cut. Set the internal design to score.
2. Prep your wood as needed, load your wood, preview, and make sure that your environment is safe – properly ventilated, no laser light leak, etc. Engrave and cut your wood.
3. Remove your cutouts. Attach a tassel and keychain.

Your heart keychains are complete! I hope you enjoy this FREE heart keychain laser file and SVG!

Download your free heart keychain laser file

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Heart Keychain Laser File SVG (Free Download) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Today I’m sharing a personal perspective and feedback of the LaserPecker LP5 vs. xTool F1 Ultra since I’ve been privileged enough to thoroughly review both of these impressive machines. Each one is suited better to a specific user, so I figured I’d share the side-by-side so that you can know which is better for you! This post contains affiliate links. Both machines were gifted, however, I’ve long fulfilled my obligations to the brand and am writing this simply to help you choose.

xTool F1 Ultra vs LaserPecker LP5: Real-World Side-by-Side Guide

Trying to pick between the xTool F1 Ultra vs LaserPecker LP5 and feeling stuck? You are not alone. Both feature similar specs making them sound like identical twins – but their physical characteristics are different enough that there is probably one that’s more suited to our needs. My goal today is to help you figure that out based on my real-life testing.

Both machines have dual-laser technology, packing a 20W diode laser and a 20W fiber laser into one galvo machine, so on paper they look very similar – and indeed, they perform similarly. Yet, due to small differences in software, hardware, and accessories, they both have very specific advantages and disadvantages.

This guide is based on real-world testing, similar to what you’ll see in the full xTool F1 Ultra dual fiber & diode laser review and the detailed LaserPecker LP5 20W fiber & diode laser review.

We will put the two side by side and look at how they compare in size and safety, software experience, speed and batch work, metal cutting and engraving, portability, and price. By the end, you’ll know which one fits you better, whether you want a semi-stationary small “laser studio” with bulk production capabilities, or a compact portable setup for shelf storage or onsite engraving, that can still handle serious materials.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Quick Overview: xTool F1 Ultra vs. LaserPecker LP5 At A Glance

Before getting into deep specs, it helps to know who each of these dual-laser technology galvo machines is built for. The way you plan to use your laser will usually make the decision pretty clear, so we’ll start by exploring it from that perspective.

If you are also curious how the F1 Ultra compares to xTool’s smaller F1, you can check the full xTool F1 vs. F1 Ultra comparison later for even more context on their lineup.

Who Each Machine Is Best For

Let’s look at the kind of person or business that usually clicks with each machine, starting with how you plan to work day to day.

xTool F1 Ultra: Best For Large Orders and Batch Production

Small jewelry makers who want real metal capabilities in-studio, as well ad deep embossing

If you sell metal jewelry and want the ability to deep emboss and cut metal on a slightly larger machine, the xTool F1 Ultra is more efficient than the LaserPecker LP5. Its 20W fiber can cut thin brass and other metals, and it can carve metal deep enough for things like wax seal stamps, coins, or filled engraves. While the LP5 can do that, the F1 Ultra by default sends the file and maintains a better connection for longer tasks. The camera makes placement easier, with lower risk of ruining pricey materials. And I found that it was better at fine detail on complex embossments.

Etsy and event swag sellers who need fast batch personalization

The xTool F1 Ultra is for people who want to engrave a lot, very fast. The galvo head is tuned for speed, and the larger enclosed work area plus optional conveyer let you batch wood tags, coasters, keychains, and jewelry blanks. Think bit swag orders, or busy Etsy shops where you run the same design on dozens of items in one sitting. The conveyor with automatic camera placement is where this really shines, but features like “double tap to repeat task” help as well.

Crafters who want one enclosed “laser studio”
If you want one main machine that lives on your table and safely handles wood, acrylic, coated metals, leather, slate, clay, and more, the xTool F1 Ultra is a strong pick. The fully enclosed design by default, built-in safety features, and camera make it friendlier if kids wander into your space or if your work area is in a shared room. The LaserPecker LP5 has this with an optional add-on.

Side‑hustlers planning to grow
If you see your laser work turning into a real side business, the xTool F1 Ultra scales better for small business applications. The autofocus features, camera alignment, and batch tools help you move from “trying this out” to “running orders every week” without feeling stuck babysitting every job.

Users who care less about portability and more about scale
The xTool F1 Ultra is heavier and more of a semi-stationary desktop laser engraver. Its footprint is still quite small (without the conveyor, which can be easily removed as needed) You can move it if you need to, but it really shines as a compact, semi-permanent setup that trades portability for power, work area, and deep metal work.

LaserPecker LP5: Best For Portability, Smaller Spaces and Lower Budgets

People in small spaces who need a compact engraver
If you live in an apartment, use a tiny craft corner, or work from the kitchen table, the LaserPecker LP5’s small footprint and lighter weight are a big advantage. It can tuck onto a shelf when not in use and still give you dual laser power when you need it.

Users who want a handheld option for large or fixed items
One of the LaserPecker LP5’s standout strengths is the handheld mode. You can bring the laser to the object, not the other way around. That helps if you want to engrave furniture, wall signs, bricks, or anything too big or fixed in place. You set it on the surface using the cone or stand, then engrave right there.

Anyone who needs a travel‑friendly laser with a carry handle
If you go to markets, pop‑ups, maker events, or work between locations, the LaserPecker LP5 is easier to move. The carry handle and lighter body make it much more portable. It pairs well with a laptop and a compact purifier setup so you can engrave names or small designs on the go.

Crafters who engrave many materials but don’t mind manually placing items
The LaserPecker LP5 is great if you want to engrave lots of different materials like wood, black acrylic, leather, coated metals, and some metals with the fiber, but you do not need extreme deep embossing or thick metal cutting. You can still do beautiful metal marking and lighter engraving, which is enough for many gifts, tags, and jewelry top layers. While it can do thicker cutting and embossing, it doesn’t transfer the file automatically and hold the connection well for those kinds of jobs – you’ll need to export to a USB.

Users who like flexibility between enclosed and open setups
With its optional enclosure and open handheld mode, the LaserPecker LP5 can switch between safer, contained engraving and “anywhere” engraving on large pieces. The cover on the cone is magnetic and can easily be removed. If you want that flexibility more than a big fixed work area, it leans in your favor.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

In short, the xTool F1 Ultra fits best if you want a small but serious studio machine with deep metal ability and fast batching. The LaserPecker LP5 fits best if you need a compact, portable, and flexible engraver that still handles real materials without taking over your space.

The xTool F1 Ultra runs a generous few hundred dollars (or even a thousand – depending on sales) more for the baseline machine, with the main tradeoff being the LCD display with internal file storage and the camera.

Key Specs and Hardware: Power, Size, and Build Quality

Before you get into software, presets, or fancy accessories, you need to know what you are actually buying in hardware. On paper, the xTool F1 Ultra and LaserPecker LP5 look very similar with their dual-laser technology, but the way their power, size, and enclosures are put together makes them feel different in daily use.

Laser Power, Beam Type, and What That Means For Materials

Both machines give you a dual-laser setup:

• 20W blue diode laser
• 20W fiber laser (around 1064 nm)
• Both are galvo lasers, so mirrors move the beam instead of a gantry sliding a heavy head. That translates to very fast engraving over a relatively small area.

This setup provides strong materials compatibility across a range of projects. Keep in mind these numbers are based on user feedback and brand testing, it’s not a concrete number but it’s there to give you a general idea of what the LaserPecker LP5 vs the xTool F1 Ultra can do.

From real-world style tests:

• xTool F1 Ultra diode
  Handles typical diode jobs like wood keychains, signs, cake toppers, and black acrylic jewelry very well. Users have cut up to around 12 mm basswood and 12 mm black acrylic with multiple passes, which lines up with projects like detailed wood earrings and acrylic laser earrings.
• LaserPecker LP5 diode
  Also strong for wood, bamboo pens, leather, cork, and black acrylic. It can cut basswood up to about 20 mm and black acrylic up to around 15 mm, making it a solid choice if most of your work is non-metal materials with good materials compatibility.

Where the two really stand out is the fiber side:

• F1 Ultra fiber performance
  • Can deep engrave and emboss metals instead of just marking the surface. Automatic internal file storage supports this more efficiently than remote file transfer. Can cut thin metals, such as about 0.4 mm brass and very thin sterling silver. Great for:
    • Deep fill engraves on pendants and bracelets, wax seal bases and coins, thin metal inlays that sit inside wooden pieces
  It is not a heavy industrial metal cutter, but for small-scale jewelry and inlay work it hits a sweet spot.
• LP5 fiber performance
  • Also handles deep embossing on brass, including things like challenge coins or signet-style surfaces. Connectivity is an issue unless you transfer files to a USB (included).
  • Rated up to about 1 mm brass cutting, but the focus is still on precision engraving rather than production cutting.
  • Excellent for precision engraving:
    • Detailed line art and logos on stainless steel and brass
    • Marking and text on jewelry blanks
    • Clean metal tags and plates

If you mostly engrave wood, leather, and acrylic, both machines feel similar. If you care a lot about metal work, the F1 Ultra handles harder tasks better, with better connectivity for complex tasks.

If you are new to lasers and want a feel for how diode power behaves on wood, this guide to engraving on wood with a laser is a helpful companion read.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Work Area, Height Capacity, and Curved Object Support

The galvo heads are similar in speed, but how and where you can place items is very different, especially when considering the working area.

xTool F1 Ultra work area and height

• Enclosed workspace with a larger working area than the LP5’s standard setup.
• Plenty of room for:
  • Coasters and small signs
  • Stacked jewelry trays
  • Tumblers and mugs on a rotary
• The interior height lets you fit taller objects without removing the enclosure.

On top of that, xTool adds hardware to stretch its reach:

• RA2 Pro rotary lets you engrave bottles, tumblers, mugs, and other cylindrical items with wraparound designs.
• Conveyor accessory turns the machine into more of a mini production line. You can feed dozens of small items across the belt, which makes sense for larger batches of tags, tiles, or small panels.

The built-in camera and software tools help with:

• Visual placement on the bed
• Curved surface assists for cups and uneven pieces
• Auto-fill patterns to quickly populate multiple blanks

That combination makes the F1 Ultra feel like a fixed-bed production machine in a compact body. It’s really a powerhouse with bulk orders thanks to this.

LaserPecker LP5 work area and height

The story is different with the LP5:

• The base engraving area on the stand is smaller than the F1 Ultra’s internal bed.
• Height is more limited when you use it like a regular desktop machine.

However, the LP5 pulls ahead in flexibility of positioning:

• The head can be used handheld, with a cone that rests on the surface.
• You can place it on:
  • Furniture pieces
  • Large signs or doors
  • Bricks, walls, or floors
• As long as you can get the laser, venting, and power to the item, size of the object is almost unlimited. Only the engrave area is fixed.

With the optional enclosure:

• You gain a camera preview, which helps for placement on small items and safer enclosed work.
• The enclosure does not yet support automatic curve mapping. So engraving on curved cups or odd shapes inside the box takes more test runs and manual tweaks compared to the F1 Ultra’s curve-friendly features.

In short:

• Choose F1 Ultra if you want a larger fixed work area, taller object support, and strong camera tools, especially for batch work and curved drinkware.
• Choose LP5 if your priority is flexible positioning on big, awkward, or fixed objects, and you do not mind a smaller fixed bed.

Size, Portability, and Enclosure Design

Even with similar laser power, the two machines feel very different when you look at the bodies and enclosures.

xTool F1 Ultra: bigger desktop “laser studio”

• Larger desktop footprint with a full metal and plastic enclosure.
• Weighs more and has no carry handle, so it is meant to live in one place most of the time. Carrying it by hugging it around the body is possible but tends to displace the protective shield.
• You can still move it between locations if you:
  • Save the original packing foam
  • Treat it like a delicate but compact appliance

Because the fiber path is fully enclosed, you do not have an exposed glass fiber cable to worry about. That makes it safer to transport than many traditional open fiber systems, where one bad kink can kill the laser.

The enclosed body also pairs nicely with:

• The conveyor for batch production, turning it into a serious small-scale production tool.
• An external air purifier, which keeps fumes under control when you use it heavily on wood, leatherette, or acrylic. If you are curious about that type of setup, the post on laser engraving leatherette walks through a very similar environment: Laser engraving leatherette tips and ideas.

Overall, the F1 Ultra fits best as a semi-permanent desktop machine that focuses on power, work area, and safety rather than easy travel.

LaserPecker LP5: compact and travel-friendly

The LP5 goes in the opposite direction.

• Compact main body that takes up a small slice of desk space.
• Built-in carry handle, so you can pick it up like a small toolbox.
• Several ways to set it up:
  • Handheld cone for on-surface engraving
  • Adjustable desktop stand
  • Optional full enclosure for light-safe desktop work

That mix makes the LP5 shine if you:

• Pack it for markets, pop-ups, or craft fairs
• Offer on-site engraving at events
• Work from a kitchen table or a shared space and need to put it away when you are done.

When you add the full enclosure, a few things change:

• You get better eye safety and a cleaner desktop workflow.
• The unit becomes bulkier, closer to a traditional desktop engraver in footprint. It’s still a bit more transportable than the F1 Ultra.
• You lose some of that ultra-compact feel, similar to how the F1 Ultra is always a desktop unit and never truly “tiny.”

So in practical terms:

• Pick the xTool F1 Ultra if you want a sturdy, enclosed desktop machine that feels like a small laser studio with batch options.
• Pick the LaserPecker LP5 if portability, a carry handle, and flexible setups matter more than having a huge fixed work area.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Real World Performance: Speed, Materials, and Project Types

Specs look nice on a chart, but what really matters is how these two lasers behave once you start feeding them wood, acrylic, leather, and metal. Thanks to their galvo systems, engraving speed stands out right away for quick results on real projects. This section walks through practical use so you can picture what your own projects would look like on each machine.

Engraving Wood, Acrylic, Leather, and Everyday Craft Materials

Both machines use their 20W diode lasers for most classic “craft” projects, like signs, earrings, tags, and gifts. The big difference is how fast they clear a batch and how friendly they are for repeat work. How well connection is maintained/offline capabilities also is a big deal with deeper, tougher engraves.

On the xTool F1 Ultra, the diode:

• Cuts thick basswood and black acrylic cleanly with the right passes
• Handles simple wood shapes and earrings without trouble
• Engraves bamboo smoothly for things like tiles, bookmarks, and small signs
• Marks leather bracelets well, though genuine leather creates plenty of smoke and you’ll ideally want to choose tooling leather for best results.

Users have found that very complex wood cuts sometimes need dialed-in settings or an extra pass, but for basic shapes, stud earrings, and charms, it does a solid job. Pairing it with a good purifier, such as the system covered in the xTool SafetyPro AP2 air purifier review, makes a big difference when you run wood and leather often. The Ultra’s enclosed body plus external filtration helps keep fumes more contained than an open diode on a stand.

On the LaserPecker LP5, the diode side is also strong:

• Cuts basswood up to around 20 mm and thick black acrylic
• Engraves bamboo pens for quick gifts or event work
• Handles wood plaques and simple signs
• Marks leatherette patches and faux leather very nicely

Because the LP5 is often used in more open setups or handheld mode, you notice fumes quickly. Good venting or a compact purifier is just as important here.

For everyday craft materials, the two machines are very close in capability. Where the F1 Ultra pulls ahead is on speed batching flat pieces. The enclosed bed, camera, and workflow tools make it easier to drop in a tray of wood tiles or acrylic blanks and run fast, repeatable jobs. Even without the conveyer the “double tap start to repeat task” feature makes batch processing a cinch.

The LP5 can hit similar quality on single items, but feels more like a “one at a time” engraver for crafts.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Metal Engraving and Cutting: Jewelry, Tags, and Gifts

Metal is where these dual-laser machines start to separate in personality. Both have 20W fiber sources, so both can handle metal engraving on real metals, not just coated tumblers.

On the xTool F1 Ultra, the fiber laser is tuned for deep, detailed metal work:

• It can deep engrave aluminum bars, brass hearts, and sterling pendants so you can fill the recess with ink, enamel, or paint.
• Thin brass sheets can be cut into charms, inlay pieces, and small tags. Real-world tests show it handles around 0.4 mm brass well for jewelry-sized parts.
• With careful settings and good fixturing, it has cut very thin sterling sheet, especially in lighter gauges. Taping the metal down to the honeycomb or base is important so it does not warp as it heats.

This kind of deep engraving lets you create things like:

• Fillable name necklaces and bar bracelets
• Wax seal bases, coins, and medallions
• Layered metal over wood bookmarks or tags

You can see many of these project types in the in depth xTool F1 Ultra review, where tests focus heavily on jewelry and small metal blanks.

The main difference in functionality is that the xTool F1 Ultra automatically transfers files to the machine and works from that local storage. This makes it efficiently continue working your complex job, even when the laptop disconnects.

The LaserPecker LP5 holds its own on metal as well:

• The fiber laser can deep emboss brass, which is great for challenge coins or signet-style pieces where you want raised or recessed designs.
• It is rated to cut brass up to about 1 mm. That extra thickness is handy if you want more substantial coins, badges, or stiffer charms.
• It engraves stainless steel, aluminum, and silver cleanly for logos, text, and decorative patterns.

One practical point with the LP5: long, deep emboss projects run smoother when the file is loaded and run from USB, not streamed over Wi-Fi.

That avoids lag between layers and keeps multi-pass jobs more consistent. If power is lost in middle, you’ll need to restart the job. Whereas on the F1 Ultra, the file is sent to the machine’s internal storage automatically. And if power is lost immediately it continues the job. This is mostly relevant with longer, deeper projects and not noticeable on everyday tasks.

For both machines, it is important to set expectations. Neither one is a heavy industrial metal cutter. They are best at:

• Small jewelry pieces like pendants, bars, charms, and earrings
• Keychains, bookmarks, and luggage tags
• Nameplates, dog tags, and custom labels
• Personalized gifts and keepsakes that need engraving more than brute-force cutting

If metal is only part of your shop, and you also do a lot of wood, acrylic, leather, and coated tumblers, the xTool F1 Ultra’s dual laser inside one enclosed body is a strong advantage. You can stay on a single machine and switch between diode and fiber without changing setups.

If you focus heavily on metal embossing and do not mind a more open or portable setup, the LP5 offers very respectable depth and cutting on brass, with the bonus of handheld flexibility for larger objects.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Speed, Batch Production, and Business Use

Both machines are galvo lasers, so they move the beam with mirrors instead of sliding a heavy head around. That alone makes them feel fast, with engraving speed up to 10,000 mm/s. Text, logos, and simple art that might take minutes on a gantry laser often finish in seconds here.

The xTool F1 Ultra is built around batch production and production-style setups:

• The optional conveyor feeder accessory can feed dozens of small items in one run, like wood tiles, tags, or keychains. You set up the design once, align with the camera, then let the conveyor advance each piece.
• The built-in camera and Auto Streamline Production tools let you place one design, then auto-populate an array across a grid of blanks.
• The threaded grid bed with L brackets makes it easy to pin down jigs or use a simple corner fence. You drop your product into the brackets, tap the repeat task button, and run the same job over and over.

This combination turns the F1 Ultra into a compact production station for small business applications, such as:

• Name tags and place cards
• Wood or acrylic earrings in sets
• Wholesale batches of logo keychains or bottle openers
• Branded metal business cards

The LaserPecker LP5 is more about flexible small runs and on-site work, especially given its larger working area in certain setups:

• It also has a threaded base and L brackets, so you can jig items for repeat engraving, especially when using the stand.
• Its software can auto fill rows of items across the defined work area, which helps when you want to engrave several small blanks at once on the base.
• What it lacks is a conveyor-style system, so you still handle most batching by moving items manually.

Where the LP5 shines is live personalization:

• You can pack the compact unit, stand, and cone and bring it to markets, pop-ups, or store events.
• It works well for engraving pens, wallets, phone cases, and small metal items while customers wait.
• The speed from the galvo head means you can engrave short names or simple icons quickly enough to keep a line moving.

If your goal is factory-style batch output from your desk, the F1 Ultra is the stronger choice. The conveyor, camera-driven workflows, and enclosed bed all point to volume production, boosted by superior engraving speed.

If you care more about smaller runs, mobility, and on-the-spot personalization, the LP5 has the edge with its portable body and handheld engraving, even if you give up some of the high-throughput batch tools that make the F1 Ultra feel like a tiny production shop.

Software, Workflow, and Ease of Use

How each machine feels to use day to day depends a lot on the software, camera tools, and how quickly you can work safely without babysitting every step. This is where the xTool F1 Ultra and LaserPecker LP5 start to pull apart in real-life workflow, even though the hardware looks similar on paper.

xTool Studio vs. LaserPecker Design Space (Plus LightBurn)

Both brands ship their own software, and both are capable, but the experience is different, especially in terms of software integration. Just a heads up: both are constantly updating and releasing new software, and both recently overhauled to a completely new version. However, xTool does seem to be five steps ahead of LaserPecker where software is concerned.

xTool F1 Ultra: xTool Studio
xTool Studio is the main software and feels fairly friendly even if you are newer to lasers.

Key strengths:

• Helpful material presets for common woods, acrylics, leathers, and metals, so you are not guessing every single setting from scratch. They have a HUGE library of presets, so you’ll likely find what you’re looking for – or something similar enough as a starting points.
• Solid image conversion, so you can take photos or simple graphics and get engrave-ready art without needing a separate design app.
• Multiple project tabs, which is a big deal in real workflows:
  • Prepare the next project while working on the first.
  • Set up multiple names for separate personalization
  • Process a few clients at once.

Paired with the F1 Ultra’s smart camera, xTool Studio gives you:

• A live top view of the bed.
• Accurate drag-and-drop placement right on jewelry blanks, tags, or tumblers.
• Autofocus features based on the camera and distance, which cuts down on manual fiddling.

If you want a deep dive into software behavior on smaller galvo units, the in‑depth xTool F1 Laser Engraver review gives a good sense of how xTool’s software flows, and the F1 Ultra builds on that with a better camera and more tools.

Overall, xTool Studio feels like it was built for crafters and small businesses. You can still design in Illustrator or another program, but if you just want to set text, drop a logo, and engrave, xTool Studio is easy to live in.

LaserPecker LP5: LaserPecker Design Space

LaserPecker Design Space works, but it is not as polished, partly due to less seamless software integration. They are improving the software, and their latest version is vastly improved.

Where it does well:

• Good image conversion, especially if you are starting from photos or basic art.
• A surprisingly strong built‑in clipart library, which is handy for fast gifts, simple icons, and filler designs when you do not want to design from scratch.

Where it feels awkward:

• The settings panel is clumsy. Controls are packed into one side panel and the workflow feels a bit stop and go.
• Some important tabs and options are hidden behind extra clicks, so you spend time hunting for controls that you use often.
• During light preview (framing), you cannot move your artwork. You have to:
  1. Stop the preview.
  2. Adjust the design or position.
  3. Run the preview again. That back and forth adds friction, especially on detailed alignment jobs.
  4. Or move the product itself, which is frustrating if placement was just-just to begin with.

Their new software improvements did help and you’ll find that it’s much more usable than it was – they’re listening to feedback. They have a fledgling materials library, offering starting points for some materials, but they need much more for it really to be effective.

The software is very usable once you get used to it, but there is more of a learning curve. You will get your settings dialed in, you will learn its quirks, but it is not as smooth out of the box as xTool Studio , where software integration shines for everyday tasks.

LightBurn on both of them

There is a workaround to the LP5 issues: LightBurn compatibility for the diode laser.

• If you already know LightBurn, this is a comfort zone.
• You get more advanced layout tools, better node editing, and a familiar workspace.
• The catch: LightBurn only talks to the diode side, not the fiber. You still rely on LaserPecker Design Space for fiber projects and deep metal engraves.

xTool’s F1 Ultra is also LightBurn compatible.

So side by side:

If you want a smoother all‑in‑one experience, the F1 Ultra plus XCS wins. If you care more about portability and already live in LightBurn, the LP5 gives you that, as long as you accept that fiber jobs still go through LaserPecker’s software.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Camera Features, Framing, and Curved Surface Tools

Being able to see your work area is a big confidence booster, especially when you are engraving small, expensive blanks. This is one area where the differences show up quickly.

F1 Ultra camera and framing

The F1 Ultra has a built‑in 16 MP camera inside the enclosure. That gives you a sharp overhead image of:

• Jewelry blanks – especially small work.
• Bar pendants
• Coasters
• Tumblers or cups on a rotary

In xTool Studio you can:

• Drop your design right where you want it on the live photo.
• Zoom in to place tiny text on a small pendant.
• Use autofocus features so you do not guess height.

On top of that, the camera powers smart tools:

• Autofill for batch jobs, where you set one design and the software populates it over multiple blanks on the bed or conveyor.
• Software updates are rolling in features for curved surfaces, like cups and rounded items, including advanced 3D Curve™ Engraving capabilities. That means the system can better handle distortion and focus as the curve moves away from center.

In real projects, this matters when you:

• Align text on a skinny bar pendant without wasting blanks.
• Center a logo on a stainless cup without running three test cups first.
• Engrave a grid of tags or coins and trust placement from run to run.

Framing on the F1 Ultra also feels smoother. You can run a light outline, nudge the design, and frame again quickly, all without feeling stuck in one mode.

LP5 camera and framing

The LP5 handles this differently.

• The camera only comes into play when you use the full enclosure, since the camera is built into that accessory, not the core head.
• Inside the enclosure, you get a top-down preview image of your work area, which is very handy for placing designs on small items.

However:

• The current camera tools do not offer curve mapping or advanced curved surface support. If you want to engrave cups or rounded items, you rely more on test frames and careful positioning. The rotary extension is more important, even when doing a simple front-only design.
• The image is more of a placement aid than a deeply integrated system like the F1 Ultra’s camera.

Both machines offer light preview or framing modes, which outline where your design will land. The key difference:

• On the F1 Ultra, you can preview, tweak, and preview again in a pretty fluid loop.
• On the LP5, you must stop the preview before you move the design. That extra step slows down alignment, especially when you are trying to get small artwork centered on a narrow surface.

For real projects, imagine:

• Trying to center initials on a bar pendant.
  • F1 Ultra: drop the art on the live camera view, quick frame, small nudge, frame again, engrave.
  • LP5: preview, stop, adjust, preview again, repeat until happy.
• Placing a logo on a metal cup.
  • F1 Ultra: camera view plus rotary support gives you a good starting point with fewer dry runs.
  • LP5: still doable, but involves more trial framing and physical alignment.

If perfect placement on small items is a big part of your workflow, the F1 Ultra’s camera plus software feels more dialed in. The LP5’s camera inside the enclosure helps, but it is not yet at the same level in terms of curved tools and fluid framing.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Learning Curve, Safety, and Maintenance

Both machines are powerful lasers, not plug-and-play office printers. They are absolutely approachable for beginners, but you should expect some learning and a bit of care.

Learning curve on each machine

• F1 Ultra
  • xTool Studio is easier to learn for many crafters, especially if you have used design software or a cutting machine before.
  • Material presets, camera view, and autofocus features help you get usable results quicker.
  • You still need to run test swatches for your favorite woods, acrylics, and metals and record your own settings.
• LP5
  • LaserPecker Design Space works but feels less intuitive. Expect more trial and error with the interface itself.
  • The strong clipart library and image tools help you get designs running even if you are not a designer.
  • LightBurn compatibility for the diode helps if you already know that software, but you still have the brand app to learn for fiber jobs.

If you want a sense of how much testing goes into dialing in materials, especially acrylics on a diode, the post on which acrylic colors a diode laser can cut shows the kind of test grids and tweaks you will do on either machine.

Safety on F1 Ultra vs LP5

Both machines need the same basic safety steps:

• Wear laser-safe goggles any time the beam is exposed or accessories leave the cover open.
• Use good ventilation or an air purifier, especially for wood, leather, and acrylic.
• Never run them totally unattended, especially on long cut jobs.

How they handle light containment:

• F1 Ultra
  • Has a fully enclosed design with safety features like a laser-safe cover. I did experience a bit of light leak on this one.
  • This feels better for home studios or permanent customer-facing spaces where you cannot control who walks in.
• LP5
  • The head has a magnetic orange safety shield that blocks some light while you work. However, since it relies on the height of the laser head, which is set by the focus parameters, there is light leak.
  • There is an optional full enclosure with:
    • Magnetic front and back doors for longer items.
    • An auto stop if a door opens during a job.
  • In handheld or open-stand mode, there is more light leakage around the work area, so goggles are non-negotiable.

So if you want a set-it-on-the-desk, mostly enclosed setup, the F1 Ultra feels safer and more self-contained. If you need open, flexible setups, the LP5 can do that, but you must stay on top of goggles and line of sight.

Basic maintenance and care

Neither machine asks for complex maintenance, but a few habits keep results clean:

• Clean the lens regularly
  • Both come with a lint-free cloth.
  • Wipe soot and dust from the lens cone and any protective glass so the beam stays sharp.
• Check vents and fans
  • Make sure exhaust paths on the F1 Ultra and enclosure vents on the LP5 stay clear of dust buildup.
  • If you use an external air purifier, replace or wash filters on schedule.
• Secure materials well
  • Use honeycomb bases, pegboard-style plates, or L brackets.
  • Tape thin metals down so they do not curl as they heat during deeper cuts or embossing.
• Keep a settings log
  • Write down power, speed, and pass counts that work for your woods, leathers, and metals.
  • Both machines benefit from this, and it saves you a ton of time and scrap material over the long run.

Neither the xTool F1 Ultra nor the LP5 is truly plug-and-play. You will:

• Run test grids.
• Tweak focus.
• Figure out which woods burn darker.
• Learn how your favorite metals behave.

The good news is that both are very approachable for newer laser users. The F1 Ultra makes the early steps smoother with its software and camera, while the LP5 trades a little ease of use for portability and flexibility. If you are willing to learn and test, either can become a reliable workhorse in your setup.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Price Comparison, Value, and How To Decide Between xTool F1 Ultra and LaserPecker LP5

Once you understand what each machine can do, the next question is simple: will it actually earn its keep? Price alone does not tell the full story, so it helps to look at both upfront cost and long term value side by side.

Cost, Accessories, and Long Term Value

Both sit in the higher tier of hobby and small business lasers because you are getting two serious lasers in one body: a 20W diode and a 20W fiber. That dual setup is what lets you engrave wood, acrylic, leather, and coated items, then switch to real metal work on the same machine.

The F1 Ultra usually comes in higher on the price ladder, especially if you buy it as a full setup. Once you add the conveyor feeder accessory for batch work, the RA2 Pro rotary for tumblers and cups, and an air purifier, you are squarely in “small studio” territory, not starter toy. For a casual hobbyist that may feel like overkill. For a seller who wants to run lots of orders, those extras turn into real production value because they save hours of handling and setup on every batch – and allow you to take more jobs.

Of course, you can buy the initial unit first and accessorize later.

The LP5 is often the more budget friendly entry, especially if you start with the core unit and stand. The starting price on the base machine is significantly more affordable. You can add only what you need, such as the enclosure for safer indoor use or a slide extension when you are ready. That modular approach fits better if you are testing the waters or have a tight budget but still want real diode and fiber power. However, you won’t be able to add the more advanced file storage and camera features that the F1 Ultra affords you.

On either machine, running costs are not about the power bill. The lasers themselves are efficient. Most of your costs come from:

• Materials like brass sheet, sterling silver, hardwoods, and acrylic.
• Time, including design, setup, test cuts, and cleanup.
• Air filtration and venting, such as filters for a purifier or vent ducting.

This is why accessories that shorten your time per piece matter so much. The F1 Ultra conveyor and camera tools can cut the handling time per blank when you are engraving a tray of wood tiles, acrylic earrings, or metal tags. The LP5’s handheld mode does the same in a different way, because you can engrave items where they already are, like furniture, pre-installed signs, or large boards, without building complex jigs.

To figure out value, it helps to do some quick math on payback with real products, especially for small business applications. For example:

• Deep engraved brass hearts, stamp bases, or inlay pieces can sell at a solid margin, since you are adding both design and function.
• Sets of wood and acrylic earrings can be cut in batches, then finished by hand. A single sheet of quality acrylic can turn into many pairs.
• Personalized metal jewelry, like the pieces in this DIY mom necklace laser SVG tutorial, can command higher prices because buyers pay for both the material and the custom touch.

You do not need a massive catalog to make a laser pay for itself. If you choose 3 to 5 core products that you know sell well, then build your workflow around them, it becomes much easier to see whether a higher upfront cost makes sense. The F1 Ultra shines when you want to push volume on those products. The LP5 shines when you want flexibility and portability around them.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Decision Checklist: Which Laser Fits Your Space, Skills, and Goals

Choose the xTool F1 Ultra if you want an all in one, enclosed desktop laser engraver that feels like a compact laser studio. It fits best if your main workspace is fixed, you like the idea of closing the lid and keeping light and fumes contained, and you want a camera view that makes placement on tiny jewelry blanks and tags feel low stress. Its larger working area supports batch production on jewelry and metal work while still handling wood and acrylic without switching machines. The fiber side is strong enough for deep engraves on brass and thin silver, while the diode manages wood earrings, signs, and acrylic charms. If you plan to batch produce items for a shop, markets, or events, the conveyor, camera, and smoother software help you move from one-off gifts to real production.

Choose the LaserPecker LP5 if you have very limited desk space and need a compact engraver with a handle that emphasizes portability. It is easier to store, lighter to carry, and can move between home, studio, and events without a lot of fuss. If you like the idea of handheld engraving on large or already installed items, such as furniture, wall signs, or bricks, its cone and handheld mode make that practical. The base unit already covers a wide mix of materials for more engraving than deep metal cutting, and the optional enclosure gives you a safer desktop setup later on. This path fits better if your business is built around on-the-spot personalization, smaller runs, and mobility rather than heavy batch work on a fixed bed.

In the xTool F1 Ultra vs LP5 decision, remember that there is no single perfect laser for everyone. The “right” choice is the one that matches your space, your comfort level with software, and the kind of products you actually want to sell, whether that is metal jewelry, wood decor, acrylic keychains, or live engraving at events.

Conclusion

In the xTool F1 Ultra vs LP5 comparison, both machines harness dual-laser technology, with the xTool F1 Ultra leading in engraving speed, but they shine in different roles. The xTool F1 Ultra feels like a mini production station, with its larger enclosed work area, camera tools, conveyor option, and deep metal engraving that suits jewelry makers and small studios. The LaserPecker LP5 trades that fixed-bed production style for a compact body, handheld mode, and carry handle, which suits people who engrave on-site, work in tight spaces, or move their setup often. Side by side, the F1 Ultra wins on batch speed, enclosed safety, and smooth software, while the LP5 wins on portability, and flexible setups, as long as you are fine with a quirkier brand app.

Before you choose, look at your budget, space, and main project list. If you picture trays of tags, earrings, and metal blanks running from one place, the F1 Ultra fits better. If you picture engraving pens at markets, names on wallets at events, or designs on furniture and large signs, the LP5 is a better match. Pick the laser that fits how and where you plan to use it most, and you give yourself a tool that can grow with you, open new product ideas, and turn your favorite projects into real income.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Need more help? Let me know your unique circumstance and I’ll help you figure it out!

The post LaserPecker LP5 vs. xTool F1 Ultra: Which 20 Watt Fiber and Diode Laser is Better? appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This LaserPecker LX2 review is written to be all you need to know if this desktop laser cutter is the right one for you! I’m excited to share all the details and hope it’ll be helpful. If you’re looking for something smaller and more portable, check out my Laserpecker LP5 review too.

Today I’m going to dive deep into LaserPecker’s newest desktop laser engraver, with the goal of answering all your questions and really helping you understand the ins and outs of this machine before making this big investment.

Before we start, some disclosures: I received this machine free of charge for review. I spend weeks testing it, pushing it to the max. I also invest in test materials for this and the way I get compensated is through affiliate links. As you’ll see, I do my best to be thorough and honest and do right by you, despite it being gifted. If you do choose to purchase, using my affiliate link helps me do thorough tests beyond the included materials and spend many work hours on it.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

Important to know before reading this LaserPecker LX2 Review

When reviewers like me receive a machine like this, we’re often early testers. That means that we get it on early versions of the machine firmware, the compatible software. And so we run into issues as we go along. At the time of writing this, any issues I ran into are fully resolved by an amazing, highly responsive tech team. I’ll share more later, but I think it’s important for you to understand this before I dive in.

Another issue with reviewing engravers: Each thing you engrave isn’t just “pop it in”. It’s a project that you need to master. It’s a fact of laser engraving. So while I would like to test every capability, some things require a few takes and eventually I need to just write the review!

So while I tried to be as thorough as I can, feel free to pop questions in the comments and I’ll let you know how it does. Or just shoot me an email!

Exploring the LaserPecker LX2 Desktop Laser Cutter

First, let’s see what the LaserPecker LX2 actually is. This is the boring stuff – skip this if you’ve already explored the machine basics on their website. Opinions and material tests are coming!

Specs

Physical

• Dimensions: 779.5 mm × 609.2 mm × 281.15 mm (~ 30.69″ × 23.98″ × 11.07″)
• Weight: 22.5 kg (about 49.6 lb)
• Fully pre-assembled

Laser / Power

• Laser types supported:
  • Diode: 20 Watt, 40 Watt (and 60 Watt coming soon) via different modules
  • Infrared (IR): 2 Watt, 1064 nm
• Input Power: 24 V / 10 A (i.e., 240 W)

Performance

• Max working speed: 1,000 mm/s
• Max acceleration: 10,000 mm/s²
• Laser spot size:
  • 96 × 102 µm (20 Watt)
  • 135.9 × 103.3 µm (40 Watt)
  • 32 × 40 µm (2 Watt IR)
• Engraving density: 10–300 dpi (this is standard print quality.)
• Positioning precision: 0.01 mm

Work Area & Capacity

• Working (engraving) area: 500 mm × 305 mm (~19.7″ × 12″)
• Maximum processing height (Z-axis):
  • Without riser base: 45 mm
  • With riser base (sold separately): up to 150 mm
• Rotary engraving maximum diameter (with rotary attachment): 130 mm

Cutting / Engraving Capabilities

• Max cutting or engraving (one pass):
  • Up to 22 mm Paulownia wood
  • Up to 19 mm cherry wood
  • Up to 20 mm black acrylic
  • Up to 0.5 mm stainless steel
• Supported materials: stainless steel, aluminum, brass, silver, plastic, titanium, wood, acrylic, leather, glass, rock, paper, rubber, etc.
• With the IR (1064 nm) laser, you can mark metals like gold, silver, copper, platinum, aluminum, iron.

Positioning / Camera

• Built-in 12MP HD camera
• Positioning: “Point-to-Shape™” system + camera for precise alignment
• Auto-focus: 3D auto-focus probe that maps the surface, even curved or irregular objects, and adjusts in real time.

Safety Features

• Class 1 certified (fully enclosed) design. It will not work when open.
• Light-tight top cover to block stray laser light
• Emergency stop button
• Flame detection sensor (to stop in case of fire)
• Safety key control (prevents unauthorized use)- a small plug-in dongle that plugs into the back to allow it to work.
• Fire extinguisher system (detects & extinguishes fire automatically) – available separately
• Noise level: during operation, ≤ ~70 dB.

Software / Connectivity

• Software supported:
  • LaserPecker Design Space app
  • LaserPecker Design Space for PC
  • LightBurn
• Operating systems: Windows / macOS
• Connection: USB and Wi-Fi
• File types supported: G-code, JPG, JPEG, TIF, PNG, BMP, SVG, DXF, etc.
• Preview method: Rectangle preview

Safety Certifications / Compliance

• Certifications: CE, RoHS, FCC, FDA, NCC, KC, UKCA, TELEC, SRRC
• Supported languages for software / UI: English, German, Spanish, French, Japanese, Korean, Polish, Russian, Portuguese, Simplified Chinese, Traditional Chinese

Accessories

I explore these in more detail within the post.

• Modular laser head: you can tool-free swap between modules (20W, 40W, 60W diodes + 2W IR)
• Riser base to increase Z-height capacity
• Rotary extension (for cylindrical / round objects)
• Smart air-assist accessory to improve cutting / engraving quality, reduce charring

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

Unboxing

I created a full unboxing video for you to see it in action.

Here’s a peek at what was inside the box:

Assembly

The machine comes effectively ready-to-go, with minimal assembly required. The setup is quite smooth and straightforward. In fact, you can see it in action in this video:

Features

The LaserPecker LX2 has some truly standout features. Some I liked better than others. I’m going to break down each one for you so you can form your own take based on your crafting needs.

Swappable Modules

One of the coolest features of the LX2 is the tool-free swappable modules. Each module has its own laser capabilities and uses. Currently, there are 20 watt and 40 watt diode modules and a 2 watt IR module. They also have a powerful 60 watt diode coming out soon.

I absolutely detest having to pull out the right tool any time I want to switch something on a desktop laser engraver. I use strong language and I mean it. I JUST want to create. The modules here slide right in the back. It has a simple lever lock/unlock features and two little things that need to be plugged in.

It takes a grand total of one minute to swap modules.

Multi-function does NOT come at the expense of usability in this case so this was a big win as far as I’m concerned.

Slatted Base

Another standout feature: the slatted base. Most desktop laser engravers have a honeycomb style base for cutting purposes. When laser cutting, it’s important for air to circulate. A flat base will not cut it.

Instead of the typical honeycomb, the LaserPecker LX2 has slats that insert into little notches. Setup is SUPER easy but…

I personally don’t love it. The machine comes with four slats which isn’t enough. I will need to expand it. I also have seen users add in a third party honeycomb panel, so if you otherwise love this machine (I do) you can use that. It doesn’t connect in any way – it’s just something for the material to sit on.

There are, however, advantages to a slat system. It allows for far more air circulation. Honeycombs don’t really have space for material cutouts to fall out of the way while the rest cuts. Things get stuck, they’re hard to clean…

I think that a larger amount of slats will resolve this and make it more functional.

Safety

The LaserPecker LX2 has quite aggressive safety features. The lid doesn’t just shut with a laser-proof window, it shuts tight. And the machine will not operate with the lid or front open.

It pauses automatically when it detects a flame, and there’s an optional add-on fire suppression kit too.

Lights

The LX2 features both an upper light and strip lights on both sides.

Besides for being gorgeous, they do a fabulous job of lighting up the surface area of the engraver, allowing a clear view of what I’m working on. Since the engraver won’t work with the lid open, this is a must-have feature and it does its job well.

Camera

The camera on the LX2 is another must-have. It enables much easier precise placement. When I tested the LX2, I was on the alpha version of the software and ran into some camera calibration issues.

This was resolved (and again, tech support was extremely responsive and helpful). I didn’t manage to test all the camera-adjacent features, such as auto design placement, but those features do exist.

Regardless, I found the camera to be very helpful (especially after successful calibration) in placing designs efficiently.

Cutting vs. Engraving Efficiency

The LaserPecker LX2 is a gantry style laser. That means that it moves along a track – vs. a Galvo laser (like the LP5) where the laser light is reflected using mirrors.

This feature has its pros and cons that is generally a feature of laser engraving (and not specific to this machine). The major downside is that it works slower. This affects engraving the heaviest, as certain materials would engrave quite quickly with the LP5. A track naturally moves slower.

On the major upside, it cuts straight down. A galvo laser gives you a bit of a slant on the cut, noticeable mostly on larger cuts (well, really anything larger than an inch or two). It affects accuracy of multi-part cuts that need to connect. The gantry on the LX2 performs beautiful cuts that are straight and precise.

It also engraves beautifully, it just takes a bit longer on some materials.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LX2 Diode Laser Cutter Accessories Review

A machine is as good as its accessories and the LX2 accessories are top notch. I’m going to break down each one for you. Keep in mind that you can choose all your accessories at once (that usually offers the best value) but you can also add them on as needed.

Air Assist

Get it. That’s it.

Whenever I’m hanging around in laser groups, there’s always someone asking how to reduce charring. The answer is always air assist. Air assist basically adds airflow to the cutting location, reducing charring and making a visible impact on the quality.

LaserPecker’s Smart Air Assist is easy to use with a few modes, including auto. It’s a small little device that plugs right in in minutes (see my setup video above) and sits on the desktop separately from the machine.

I tried it on this little wooden cutout. On the darker engrave, I turned on air assist midway. You can see the side that’s charred, reducing the contrast on the border vs. the engraved part. The lighter engrave had air assist on the whole time.

Desktop Smoke Purifier

Unless you’re venting outdoors, an air purifier is a must. And even if you are, an air purifier is helpful. Engraving releases a lot into the air and you want to safeguard your lungs.

The LaserPecker Desktop Smoke Purifier for LX2 is a pretty basic and effective model. It’s an industrial-looking thing that needs to be turned on manually and has different strength settings. It’s quite loud – but also very easy to set up.

Riser Base

The riser base adds to the engraving depth of the LaserPecker LX2. It’s a screw-on (so semi-permanent) addition. This does need assembly and is definitely recommended if you’ll want to do more than engrave flat items. It’s also necessary when using the rotary.

The riser base opens on the front and allow you to slide in and out the base of the engraver. It’s really simple to use (the base doesn’t need to be re-screwed every time) and I’ve established it as a permanent part of my LX2.

Rotary Extension

I wish I’d had more time to thoroughly test the rotary extension but there comes a point, as I’ve mentioned, that I just need to share this review. See my introduction…

I did give it a quick go and found it very easy to use. It features easy angling, easy adjustment and three prong types. I tested it on a tumbler, and while I didn’t quite nail down my engraving settings, it worked beautifully. It’s plug-and-go (no required screwing) and doesn’t require an engineering degree to use.

The software (which I’ll explore in-depth next) did a great job of guiding me though placing my design accurately, with a full rendered preview.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LX2 Software

Once again, an engraver is only as good as its software is… and while I’ve had complaints about LaserPecker’s in the past, it looks like they’ve listened to all of us!

I’ll explore two aspects of the Design Space beta software (yes, it’s still in Beta mode) separately since both performed in separate ways.

Editing Features & Usability

LaserPecker majorly outdid themselves with this update. They took a software that I (and other reviewers) critiqued as cumbersome, lacking, and hard to use and flipped it on its head.

The new version – currently in Beta mode as of this writing – is user friendly, uses familiar placement and terminology for key features, and has loads of editing features. While I do most of my design off-app (I’m a graphic designer and usually design in Adobe Illustrator) I was happy with the process of doing simple processes – type, offsets, and more. The standard image editing features and Vector manipulation tools are there and once again, user-friendly.

In addition, they have a nice library of clipart ready to use.

Settings Features

One major addition is a material library. This allows you to choose an easy preset for common materials and auto-set settings.

Remember when I mentioned at the beginning of this post how each craft you make with a laser is its own learning process? LaserPecker loaded some materials and took the bulk of the work off our heads.

The library is still very limited with just a handful of materials. The ones they had in place had very good, accurate settings options. I’d rather them carefully test and put in solid recommendations than rush through it, but I would like to see much more common materials featured in the settings library.

They also have a new feature on their materials. These come with a QR code in place that the machine automatically scans and then loads the appropriate settings. For example, when you open the lid, place a sheet of their 3mm plywood with the barcode in place, close the lid, the camera refreshes. It sees the barcode and loads the settings. It’s futuristic.

Hitting problems

One big downside, as I’ve shared, of being an early reviewer is the use of alpha versions of software and firmware. As I tested, I ran into some major issues that got in the way of me using the machine and getting this review out.

However, when I reached out to customer service, they typically answered within 24 hours. They very smoothly guided me through new firmware updates and fixing my issues.

All the issues were related to compatibility of the firmware and the software, which, again, were in alpha modes. I’m sharing this with you here for two reasons:

1. My commitment to honesty in my reviews means that I need to share if I ran into issues.

2. Lasers are complex machines that are prone to problems, and so the customer service of a company will really make or break your purchase. I had a very positive experience specifically with tech support, so I figured I’d better share that here!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

Projects to make with the LaserPecker LX2

I’m going to go through the different materials and project types that I tested with the LaserPecker LX2. I don’t love sharing settings for specific projects since it varies so much by the exact nature of the product. In fact, even when the brand provides the settings, it’s usually for their brand materials – other brands still need experimentation. This is universal – not specific to LaserPecker.

Brand material settings are a great starting point – and that’s where I start even when it’s not an exact match.

If there is something specific that I feel will help, I will share. I always recommend testing and trying it out on your own before going all-in.

Project 1: Wood Earrings with Kraft Card

Module: 40 Watt Diode. To test how the machine cuts plywood, I made these fun and colorful earrings. The cut was really clean and beautiful, and the earrings are super fun to wear. I painted them with nail polish! Settings were default 3mm plywood.

I got the file for this project here.

The file comes with a few designs – and cards as well! I cut that from Kraft board. The settings for Kraft paper were great on the cut but I didn’t love how it scored the lines. I do think that’s a material side issue, and will stick to cutting Kraft paepr.

Project 2: Acrylic Keychain

Module: 40 Watt Diode. When I found the files for this layered heart, I knew I wanted to make an acrylic keychain. I had a vision but it didn’t come out great. Diode laser cutters are limited with which colors they can cut, and so I stuck to red and black. I do need to expand my stock of Diode-friendly laser colors to make projects like these come out better.

However, it was still a fabulous test project for intricate cuts on acrylic and it performed.

Project 3: Acrylic and Wood Pomegranate

Module: 40 Watt Diode. To take it to the next level, I decided to test an intricate wood cut – something that smaller scale galvo lasers can’t handle. I designed this wood pomegranate decoration (I’ll eventually be uploading it to my Etsy shop).

The frame is red acrylic – a fabulous diode-friendly color to cut. The center is 3mm basswood and with the help of air assist, it cut with minimal charring. The only post-processing I did on this was to finish it with butcher block oil. That’s it. No cleanup, no sanding…

Project 4: Leather Bracelet

Module: 40 Watt Diode. I’m always a bit torn with processing leather on a laser engraver – mainly because, as a natural material, the variation is so hard to get right. There’s no one size fits all solution for cutting or engraving it, unless it’s a very specific tooling leather.

The leather that I have handy is really just from scraps. I made a simple leather bracelet (you can download the files for this and the next cut on my post dedicated to laser engraving leatherette). It cut gorgeously. The engraving wasn’t the best. I recommend going for leathers that aren’t finished – in fact, tooling leather really is the best for this.

Project 5: PU Leather Cord Taco

Module: 40 Watt Diode. The cord taco that I made was from leatherette that came with the material kit in the box. It cut beautifully once again, but the engrave wasn’t the greatest. The machine CAN engrave PU leather but once again, it can vary. Definitely test grid this one if you’re engraving it.

Project 6: Anodized Aluminum Sign

The machine’s material kit came with a nice sized anodized aluminum sheet. I tested this using the 2 Watt IR module.

I made this using the Design Space app. I’m constantly frustrated with cleaning food waste in my basement. It engraved gorgeously and is one of my favorite projects that I made while testing this machine. The slow pace of the gantry laser is a pain point with this type of project, but as you get larger, a galvo often fades towards the end. The LaserPecker LX2 gave me a bright, consistent engrave.

Project 7: Monogram Dogtag

Module: 2 Watt IR. A 2 Watt IR is capable of marking many different metals. It can not do a deep engrave, but if you get it go really slow, you can get it quite dark.

I opted to do a lighter engrave for a more seamless integrated look. It worked just as expected and looks almost iridescent and blends in. The LP5 has a 20 watt fiber laser, making it a better choice for this type of project, so if this is what you focus on, you’re better off getting that machine.

But if you just want the function of a full-sized powerful diode laser cutter – that can mark metal as a side thing, this one is great for that.

Project 8: Slate monogram coaster

Slate coasters are quite popular, and I engraved a monogram (from the clipart library) on the one that came with the materials kit. I used the 2 Watt IR for this. A diode laser cutter CAN engrave slate, however, I find that IR gets it brighter and whiter.

Additional Tests on Wood

Since wood is a central material to this type of laser, I wanted to run more tests. I shared my side-by-side of the air assist on a simple basketball cutout before.

I also wanted to push it to the max with wood. I cut this circle out of a piece of 12mm wood. I wanted to test it on a more intricate cut but made a big “oops” that stopped me from testing it further.

It sliced through beautifully, and I do think it can go much thicker. However, I wouldn’t necessarily recommend overdoing the thick cutting on this type of machine. I do recommend doing it in multiple passes on a faster speed to avoid a flame – even if it CAN be done in one pass.

LaserPecker LX2 Review Summary

While I’ve interspersed my opinions and feedback throughout this LaserPecker LX2 review, consider this a consolidated summary of my take.

Pros

These standout features were a win for me, and make this machine one that I will allow to take up very valuable space in my very small craft room.

• Very safe: The safety features go above and beyond, allowing me to use it confidently.
• User friendly: Overall, I found the machine easy to learn and use. Software upgrades helped.
• Versatile: The different module options and the ease with which they swap out are fabulous.
• Camera: The camera was accurate right out of the box, and really helps with placement.
• Large bed: This is a generously sized machine that can accommodate larger projects
• Accessories: The riser base and rotary expand the use of the machine majorly, and both are well-made and easy to use.
• Air Assist: One of my favorite features of the LaserPecker LX2, the air assist really improves quality by reducing charring, and is a must-have for commercial applications, to offer a better product.
• Tech Support: LaserPecker’s tech support was responsive, timely, helpful, and very clear.

Cons

These are the things that I would love for LaserPecker to improve on in this machine and in the future:

• Slat system: I would love to see it come with a full bed of slats out of the box. You can purchase additional ones if you’d like.
• Purifier: I don’t love the purifier that comes with the machine. It’s noisy and doesn’t auto-sync. You can purchase third party options or vent outdoors. It does work however and is a solid option if you’re going for this class of industrial purifier.
• Material selection: I’m waiting eagerly for that majorly expanded library of settings.

Who it’s best for

As you can see, I have a lot of good to say about theLaserPecker LX2. It’s still in the early stages of release and there are some speed bumps along the way. I think it’s a fabulous machine for those who want a desktop laser cutter with the versatility of various laser power options, but also don’t have space for multiple large machines.

It’s a great beginner-friendly Diode laser cutter for small businesses, those looking to be able to cut larger projects, and those looking for a bit more metal marking capability.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

Got any questions or comments to add onto this LaserPecker LX2 review? Comment below!

The post LaserPecker LX2 Review – Diode and IR Laser Engraver and Cutter appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking into getting a laser engraver, you’ll find my thorough review of the LaserPecker LP5 laser engraver helpful! When you’re done, go ahead and try these fun wood and acrylic laser earrings. This post contains affiliate links.

Getting your first (or second, or third) laser engraver can be intimidating. When LaserPecker reached out to me to review their LP5 laser engraver, I decided that it’s a great way to help you approach this purchase with a bit more clarity.

They did send me a sample to review. Because I do not currently need another one with these specs, and so you can rest assured that my review is completely honest. In fact, when they reached out, I agreed to review it on the condition of complete and total transparency and honesty, and they agreed.

Below I’ll be sharing everything you need to know about the LaserPecker LP5 before purchasing, so that you can make an educated decision to purchase or not to.

I’m reviewing it from the perspective of someone who has some experience with laser engravers but wouldn’t be classified as a “pro” – so I’ll be able to evaluate usability from closer to your own skill level if you’re relatively new or an emerging laserengraver.

And one final note before I begin reviewing: all links to LaserPecker in this post ARE affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase, I ask that you do so through my link. I use lots of material while testing (including those I purchase myself, and pricey items too), and spend many many hours away from other work doing so. I also disable in-post ads on long reviews like this one, so your reading experience is smoother. Purchasing through my affiliate links is the only real compensation I get for this post, helps support my kids’ education, and costs you nothing extra. It is very much appreciated!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

About the LaserPecker LP5

Technical Specs – Know what you’re purchasing

The LaserPecker LP5 is a 20 Watt Diode and 20 Watt Fiber laser engraver. Those are fabulous, effective specs for a multi-purpose laser engraver.

It is a compact laser engraver, with some cutting capability. It is a galvo laser. That means that the laser is moved around via mirrors (and not physically). This typically results in much faster speeds – and a slight angle for thick cuts that are not in the center. This is the same across all galvo lasers.

Here’s a quick list of specs:

• Dual laser sources:
  • 20 Watt (Blue) Diode Laser (≈ 450 nm): this is ideal for materials like wood, black acrylic, leather (PU or real), slate, ceramic, paper, cork, and silicone.
  • 20 Watt Fiber Laser (≈ 1064 nm) – this is for metals, such as stainless steel, aluminum, brass, titanium, silver, platinum, and engraving plastics. This also performs really well on slate.
• Maximum working speed: up to 10,000 mm/s – thanks to the Galvo laser
• Cutting depth:
  • Diode: up to 20 mm Basswood, 15 mm black acrylic
  • Fiber: up to 1 mm brass, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium sheets
• Engraving Area:
  • Basic engraving area (ellipse): 120 × 160 mm (around 4.7×6.3 inches)
  • Square engraving area: 100 × 100 mm (3.9×3.9 inches)

The cutting and engraving area is expandable with a slide extension (which I have not tested)

• Laser spot size:
  • Diode: 0.08 × 0.1 mm
  • Fiber: 0.06 × 0.06 mm
• Positioning and motion accuracy: 0.0027 mm
• Image resolution options: 1K / 2K / 4K / 8K
• Software support: LaserPecker Design Space (mobile app and PC), and LightBurn (Diode only)
• Supported file formats:
  • PC: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG, DXF, etc.
  • Mobile: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG
• Connection methods: USB and Wi-Fi
• Supported operating systems:
  • Mobile: iOS 9.0+ (or 13.0+ per one page), Android 7.0+
  • Desktop: Windows 10+, macOS 10.15+
• Dimensions:
  • Laser Unit: 255 × 98 × 183 mm / 10.04 × 3.86 × 7.21 in
  • Electric Stand: 198 × 286 × 323 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
  • Conical Protective Cover: 167 × 231 × 160 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
• Weight:
  • Laser unit: 3.36 kg / 7.41 lb
  • Electric stand: 2.28 kg / 5.03 lb
  • Protective cover: 0.38 kg / 0.84 lb
  • Total: ~6.02 kg / 13.27 lb
• Preview Modes: Offers live preview options: Rectangle Preview, Outline Preview, and Center Point Preview
• Optional Accessories:
  • Slide Extension (expands working area)
  • Rotary Extension (engravable cylinders — 1 mm to 145 mm diameter)
  • Air Purifier
  • Safety Enclosure (with camera – reviewed below)

Unboxing – What you get

In the box, you get everything you need to get started including:

• The laser head – a separate unit that can needs to be supported in one of these ways:
  • With the cone attached, held against an object
  • On the stand
  • On the safety enclosure
• The stand base
• The stand
• A cone enclosure
• Manual
• Connection cables
• Ventilation ducts/connectors
• A starter material packet
• Safety goggles (win!)
• A toolkit in a case (win!)
• Positioning brackets with screws to use in the threaded base
• A cutting plate
• A USB drive

Feature rundown

The LaserPecker LP5 has loads of features, which I’ll outline here. This is not an exhaustive list – it’s a focus on the features I’ve been evaluating.

• Various engraving options – This is a PORTABLE laser engraver, which means you have a handheld unit that you can use anywhere. To make it doable, it has a cone attachment that connects around the laser head. Lean it on something and you can engrave. Or, use the stand, with the base for a desktop setup. You can also use it with larger items as it’s not “self-contained” – so there’s no limit on object size to engrave, just on engrave area. There’s also a full enclosure which is limited in size. I’ll review that separately below.
• Threaded base with brackets – You can easily position items for repeat engraving using the L brackets that are included.
• Up down physical buttons on the stand allow you to focus easily. Long press and it continues going, eliminating the need for repeated pressing.
• Engraving directly from USB – You will go through your device to run the engrave, but this allows for more fast and efficient engraving and reduces disconnect.
• Emboss, engrave, cut modes – You can deep emboss, engrave, score, or cut various materials.
• Easy carry handle – It features a handle on the top for easy transport and portability. Overall, the structure is one that’s easy to move around.
• Magnetic safety shield – You can remove the orange safety shield on the cone to give you access to the item you’re engraving, move it around. It is attached with strong magnets and comes on and off easily.
• Easy to remove side vent allows you easy access for cleaning and maintenance.

Software Overview

The brand software of LaserPecker is called LaserPecker Design Space. It is kind of a “known fact” that their software kind of lags behind others in user-friendliness.

You can use LightBurn with the LP5, however, only with the diode laser.

I found LaserPecker Design Space quite cumbersome to use, but also found that it had some features that were beneficial. For starters, they do have good image conversion features, especially for beginners. And while their design tools aren’t advanced, if you’re designing off-app (like me for the most part) that doesn’t matter.

What I did find most cumbersome was the whole panel where you work the settings. The workflow there isn’t very efficient, you can’t move around your artwork while framing, you have tabs that should always show but sometimes don’t… You get used to it after a number of uses.

One BIG advantage is that they do have an extensive clipart library.

In a nutshell: there is a learning curve, there aren’t good presets, but it’s definitely more than workable, can do what you need, and you WILL learn.

LaserPecker LP5 Review and Analysis of the Enclosure

What is the enclosure?

The enclosure is a full standalone unit that completely replaces the stand. You attach the laser head with the handle to the top opening, reconnect all those little cables, the exhaust, and then use it as is. It’s a self-contained unit that totally seals it off and has its own base that moves up and down.

Enclosure features

One of the biggest perks of the enclosure is that it allows your work to be fully enclosed – with no light leak. While the main unit has a cone cover, it moves up and down with the laser head, so you usually have a bit of a gap with light leakage there.

The enclosure is… fully enclosed. It has magnetic front and back doors so that you can engrave something longer – but then it’s not fully enclosed. It does have a stop feature that pauses engraving if the door is opened in middle.

The enclosure also adds a camera feature to the mix so you can preview your work area and blank from the screen.

More features/quick specs:

• Dimensions: 310 × 350 × 345mm / 12.20 × 13.78 × 13.58 in
• Weight: 8.9kg / 19.62 lb
• Automatic fill for engraving multiple items
• Optimal working area is the same – as it’s dependent on the laser output.

Enclosure vs. no enclosure

So do you want to use the enclosure or not?

The biggest advantage of the enclosure as far as I’m concerned is that it’s just so much easier to position your design using the camera. I did run into some hiccups with it and needed to calibrate it a few times before getting it right, and once again, the software for this is not intuitive. But once I had it set up, it was so much easier.

It also contains the fumes better and makes the air purification more effective, and of course offers no light leakage.

The biggest disadvantage of using it with the enclosure is that it’s just not compact that way. One of the biggest perks overall of the LP5 (which I will highlight below) is its compact size. It truly allows it to stand out in the market. You lose that with the enclosure. It turns it more into a full-sized laser engraver BUT you sill have the portability.

If you tend to use your laser engraver on your desktop but want the possibility to move it around, the enclosure is still a really cool optional feature to have.

Overall LaserPecker LP5 Review

This section of the LaserPecker LP5 review is designed simply to show you what I personally liked or didn’t like about it. When choosing a laser engraver, focus on your own needs, how much the pros meet those, and to what degree the cons don’t contradict your needs.

Pros of the LaserPecker LP5

• Compact size – is perfect for smaller spaces. Its footprint is very small and it can simply sit on a tiny corner of a desk.
• Portable – It’s not only small, it’s also lightweight and easy to transport with the carry handle. That means that for lighter use, it can even be stored up on a shelf, brought to markets…
• Enclosure – This fully enclosed zero light leak setup allows me to move around the room and do other things during longer runtimes without annoying goggles.
• Large item engraving – Since it can be placed on any surface, it can be used to engrave logos on handmade furniture, addresses on wall bricks, or anything anywhere really – as long as you can vent it and power it on. There is only an engraving size limit, no object/surface size limit.
• Individual previews – A more obscure feature that I loved that is not to be taken for granted is the fact that it shows each element as its own preview when you preview your engrave. That means that if you are engraving ten pens with different names, each one will show as a separate rectangle – not as one long rectangle. That allows me to position it for better engraving.
• Extremely accurate engraving with fine detail
• Galvo laser gives extremely high speeds – fabulous for batch processing, despite working area limits.
• Sturdy and solid – Its compact size and relatively light weight does not come at the cost of feeling cheep. It is a solid, metal piece and has weight to it – though a very manageable weight.
• Outline preview – the light preview can show a rectangle or outline. The outline mode is very stable and easy to use.
• Dual lasers open up a world of possibilities – and both have decent entry-level power. There are so many things this can engrave that it makes it a perfect machine for those who aren’t looking to set up a huge workshop with dedicated machines for each material type.

Cons of the LaserPecker LP5

• No adjustments in preview – when using the light preview feature, you can’t adjust your design. I do personally use that feature a lot but keep in mind that you CAN adjust your material.
• No curve map – I’d love to see them add software capabilities for curved surface engraving on the enclosure! It has a camera so that would be a great addition. Now, you’d need to use the rotary, which I haven’t tried personally, to do a tumbler.
• Software learning curve – As I mentioned above, the software is not very intuitive and has a steep learning curve, and some quirks.
• No good material settings library – While you’ll typically want to run your own material tests for things you plan to engrave and cut, a material settings library is a very good jumpstart. I found LaserPecker’s to be lacking and hard to understand. I recommend keeping your own spreadsheet, and finding starting points in their project library and Facebook groups.
• Slow file transfer – Unless you’re working from the USB, it sends each item individually – and is so slow. You need to combine every element on the design into one shape to enhance speed.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Material Tests and Results

When it comes to writing a laser engraver review, material tests are so helpful in indicating what you can or can’t do with your machine, and what it’ll take to get each material done, how well it performs, etc. It’s a great way to analyze whether a machine is right for you.

But it comes with a caveat: it’s endless. When working on this LaserPecker LP5 review, my goal was to get a good overview and sampling. If you want to know a specific material, feel free to drop a comment or email me and I’m happy to guide you on it!

Meanwhile, I tried my own top used materials and shared the results of some gifts I’m making too, and things I’m personalizing for my own kids.

Wood Engraving and Cutting

The LaserPecker LP5 can engrave different types of wood and can cut up to 20mm basswood.

Bamboo Pens (Diode engraving)

I love engraving these bamboo pens for gifts for everyone – counselors, teachers, family. They are also a very hot seller.

They engraved nicely and quicky, with the basic unevenness that you’ll pretty much always find in bamboo engravings. The trick is to keep the design small enough that it doesn’t curve and fade on the edges.

Wood Keychains (Diode engraving)

This is another blank that engraves beautifully. It’s easy to get a nice, deep engrave on these and they make fun swag and handouts. I engraved my husband’s logo on these.

Basswood Plywood (Diode engraving and cutting)

I tested the 3mm basswood plywood that came with the sample pack by engraving my own logo and cutting out a circle around it. The fine detail on this isn’t the greatest because my logo doesn’t scale well (note to the designer – me!) However, it engraved easily and quickly. It cut well as well – I personally prefer to do a few passes at higher speeds and get very little charring that way.

Metal Engraving, Deep Embossing and Cutting

Since I’m a jewelry designer, and the 20 watt fiber laser is a standout feature on the LP5, I focused a lot of my material tests for my LaserPecker LP5 review around metal.

It performed as expected for a 20 watt fiber. It performed best on brass. Sterling silver is a bit more complex to cut because of its high thermal conductivity.

The LP5 can cut up to 1mm of brass – which I did not test, but figuring that I embossed that deep, cutting should be a no-brainer.

Challenge Coin (Fiber Deep Embossing)

One of the coolest things you can do with a fiber laser is deep embossing… and challenge coins are quite popular. I am so not into them so I really honestly didn’t feel like trying it – but then I realized it’s a great test to see how it would perform on brass signet rings.

I should have just gotten a brass signet ring because the surface area is so much smaller, which makes the engrave time much shorter.

I ended up running it twice, once since one time it got disconnected. HOwever, it did do a great job and look forward to eventually trying a signet ring. I plan to keep designs simpler – just because that’s my style, rather than the complex designs. I ran the coin test to push it to the max.

Once I got to see this, I figure it’ll do even better on the simpler deep emboss projects I plan to run on brass.

I did polish these up with a rotary tool and a steel brush.

Aluminum Stamping Blank (Fiber Engraving)

Stamping blanks are a nice, soft metal and I wanted to see how well they engrave. I did this super quick heart and it zapped it in a second. This is a super fun, affordable customizable jewelry option.

Coated Tumblers (Fiber Engraving)

I engraved a monkey from the clipart library on my son’s tumbler, and once again, it went okay. However, I was very limited in the width of the design without the rotary, so if you plan to do these, get the rotary. I wish they had a curve mapping feature so I could do this without a rotary – I really only like to use a rotary extension for full wraps.

Coated Aluminum Sheet/Business Card (Fiber Engraving and Cutting)

These popular business cards go so fast with the galvo Fiber, however I never thought to cut them! The material sample pack came with a sheet version and it cut like a charm (no pun intended). I don’t think I’d use this for jewelry, however it can be fabulous for engraved inlaid plaques or any other inlay as it comes in many different colors. You can also do die cut aluminum business cards as a premium product, or even make clip-on bookmarks with it.

Since it’s a thin material you don’t have the slanted edge issue.

Brass (Engraving and Cutting)

Brass up to 1mm can be cut, however, I went a bit thinner to test it for brass inlays. I cut .2mm brass sheet and again, it just sliced right through it like butter.

It engraved beautifully as well, and once again, brass is a favorite material to work with.

925 Sterling Silver (Engraving and Cutting)

Sterling is more challenging with a laser engraver. I did manage to cut 24 gauge sterling. You always want to tape it down to secure it, as it’s lightweight and the fans can blow it out of place.

It engraves beautifully, and this charm was already claimed by my four year old!

Black Cast Acrylic Engraving (Fiber) and Cutting (Diode)

Acrylic is a popular material for laser crafters and while it can be cut using a diode laser, you’re really better off with a CO2 laser if you plan to dedicate yourself to different colored acrylic.

However, those are very pricey, harder to maintain, and the diode laser can cut many colors of acrylic. When it comes to a diode laser, black acrylic is really your best bet – and it can look adorable!

I made these name keychains for my son’s day camp counselors using 3mm black acrylic. It works quickly and effectively. I engraved using the fiber laser, which looks fabulous and gives a high contrast.

Cutting acrylic is tricky because of the angle, however, in small projects like this it doesn’t matter. It was centered vertically and the angling isn’t really prominent.

I engraved the thank you message in tiny on the back and it’s nice and sharp. I designed the whole thing in LaserPecker Design Space (the font is a system/self-owned font, not an app font).

Leather and Leatherette Engraving and Cutting

I’ve shared before that I’m NOT the biggest fan of working with a laser on leather just because of the fumes and the inconsistency between various leathers. However, I did test it here and it worked quite well, as expected.

Leatherette Hat Patch (Diode Engraving)

I engraved a black-to-silver adhesive hat patch with my logo. My settings were too strong and it engraved right through the coating, so yes, you’ll want to run tests and be very accurate with your focusing.

I like how the silver outline looks, though.

PU Leather (Diode Engraving and Cutting)

The sample pack came with a sheet of PU leather. I didn’t love how it engraved, but again, it’s leather dependent and you’ll want to test different PU leather types, run test grids, etc. so that you get the perfect engrave.

It cut beautifully and I was pleasantly surprised. I might rethink my whole attitude towards lasers and leather.

Genuine Leather (Engraving and Cutting)

I also engraved a piece of leather that I had at home and, well, the results are again the leather’s fault. It went beautifully through the top layer – but it’s too close in color to the surface to be visible. Colored leather or leather with a different core would look quite different. I need to try burning raw tooling leather now!

It cut nicely – I need to tweak my settings so it cuts a bit better – but again, I’m thinking that maybe I DO like laser cutting leather after all!

Slate Coaster (rock) Fiber Deep Embossing

I don’t think I am ever doing a deep emboss on slate ever again – the dust is next level – but it did a gorgeous job. Here’s where I ran into issues: I should have run it from the USB. After a few hours of embossing, it disconnected, didn’t manage t continue, and I was done. I had designed something special for it – I wanted to try for that layered water look with a resin fill – but I had to let it go so that I can get this review live, as it takes many, many hours to emboss slate of this size.

When it comes to any deep embossing, it’ll take much longer and majorly lag between layers if you don’t work from the USB. You’ll want to run these from the USB only. Trust me.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Final Review and Analysis

In a nutshell

To summarize: the LaserPecker LP5 is a dual laser engraver that’s a powerhouse for engraving loads of materials including metal, wood, slate, PU leather and genuine leather, and more.

It’s got a 20 watt fiber and 20 watt diode laser which is quite effective at engraving a variety of materials. Since it’s a galvo laser, its cuts tend to angle a bit. This matters more on larger cuts on thicker materials. For that reason, smaller cuts on thinner materials can still cut very efficiently, and cuts that matter less (that don’t need to join accurately) can still be done very effectively.

It’s a very compact laser engraver, with its small footprint, portability, and storability being one of my favorite perks.

The software has a steep learning curve but is learnable, and there’s no really good consolidated material library, so you’ll want to collect data and do full grid tests before starting your product line.

The unit with the stand has its own cover that does have some light leakage on some thicker materials, but that cover can be held up against surfaces to allow for protected engraving. The unit does come with safety goggles, a fabulous bonus.

It’s got loads of convenience and usability features and despite the steep learning curve it is a fabulous entry level, small business, on-site market, or secondary machine.

Is it right for you?

I always recommend that when making an investment purchase like the LaserPecker LP5, you start with a lists of musts and a list of “good to haves.” Once you covered those, here’s my advice:

If you’re looking for:

• a mid-market reliable laser engraver that’s
• perfect for small cuts, jewelry, and engraving or
• is portable and has a small footprint and doesn’t require a dedicated workshop and
• can cut and engrave a larger range of materials well rather than being highly specialized for a narrow range of materials

the LaserPecker LP5 is probably the right machine for you.

Feel free to drop a comment with your specific needs and I’ll let you know if I feel it’s the best fit for you – or just email me!

Get it here!

You can get the LaserPecker LP5 here and the safety enclosure here! Or, if you prefer, you can get it on Amazon!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

The post LaserPecker LP5 Review – 20 Watt Fiber and Diode Laser Engraver appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Of all the things I’ve engraved, leatherette is a favorite. It gives a luxurious vibe and allows you to craft some really nice gifts and easy sales items.

In this post, I’ll be teaching you everything you need to know about laser engraving leatherette! At the end of this post, I share with you the files I used in this project (which I created specially for it) – including the Super Mom Vibes SVG, the floral pattern on the bracelet, and the files for the cord taco and leather band bracelet.

To teach you about laser engraving leatherette, I used my F1 Ultra. You can read my review of the F1 Ultra here. This post will show settings for that machine; however, many of my settings were xTool defaults – which means you can just use their default settings for YOUR machine if you’re an xTool user.

And finally, you can also read my full comparison of xTool F1 vs. the Ultra here.

Laser Engraving leatherette – two types!

There are two main textures of leatherette that I’ll show you here: standard faux leather and suede.

Laser engraving textured leatherette blanks

To show you how to engrave on faux leather, I used laser engraving blanks. The main difference between that and using yardage of faux leather is that blanks will usually have an under-layer that is a specific color. When you engrave it, you’re removing the top coat to reveal a specific color – in this case silver.

There are advantages and disadvantages to this. The main advantage is extremely predictable and replicable results. That makes it perfect for fulfilling bulk orders with consistent outcomes.

The downside is that it can almost look like you took a marker to it! It doesn’t give you the more authentic “stained leather” look.

There are so many leatherette blanks out there – just keep your eyes open for which color you’re engraving to with those, and choose accordingly!

Laser engraving faux suede sheets

The other material I’m approaching is faux suede sheets. As you can see, you can engrave a subtle texture that’ll remove the top suede layer to reveal what’s underneath.

Sometimes that’s a bit unexpected – and that’s why you always want to test!

On this faux suede that I used, I got a subtle yellow look. I actually really like it – though I’d envisioned a slightly darker brown. Playing around with settings and trying test grids will get you the results you really want when laser engraving leatherette, and it’s always advisable to do that.

If you’re engraving a decorative pattern, subtle color-on-color results look really fabulous. If you’re engraving a name, quote, or specific imagery, you may want something darker. Play around!

Laser cutting leatherette

While this post does focus on engraving, I did create actual projects to show you too. And once I was at it I figured – why not address a common issue I see in laser groups – how to get rid of the char marks! This is especially pronounced when you have a specific texture you want to highlight.

Troubleshooting char marks

The going advice for avoiding char marks is always going to be to mask it. That is, you’ll want to cover your piece with masking tape so that any soot caused by the engraving falls on the tape.

In the image below, the bracelet on the right was masked. The cord taco on the left wasn’t.

Masking is always a good idea when you want professional, polished results. While some materials can be scrubbed clean, this leatherette is much more porous and post-processing didn’t really rid me of char marks.

The issue you may run into is with the engraved texture. That throws a curveball into the masking process. You need to engrave, remove it, and only then mask. So you can’t cut the pattern to fit only where you’re cutting, as you’re moving the material in between.

The best solutions would be:

1. Either engrave a full pattern into your whole sheet. I don’t like doing this as I may end up wasting material.
2. Or, engrave with overlap and be very careful with your masking that you’re noting where the engraving is.

Masking does, however, eliminate the char marks, leaving only slight darkening on the cut lines (which actually looks fabulous).

More tips and tricks

There are other things to keep in mind when cutting leatherette – and also when engraving it. Here are a few additional tips:

1. The most important thing is to know your material! If you are not cutting laser-specific materials, look for PU leather. Never laser cut or engrave PVC as it releases toxic gases. Your best bet is to buy materials marked for laser crafting.
2. When possible, tape your material in place, especially if cutting from smaller pieces. Since it’s a very lightweight material, any blowing on the part of your fan or ventilation method can make it shift.
3. It can cause quite the fumes, so ventilate properly! I HIGHLY recommend xTool’s SafetyPro AP2 Air purifier – it turns on automatically to the right levels based on what you’re cutting, and it’s very effective.
4. Make sure that if your machine isn’t fully enclosed, you wear protective goggles. I run into this when working with larger pieces of material.
5. Test grids are your best friend! If you need very specific results, do a test grid. Leatherette varies so widely by brand, type that you can’t really rely on other people’s settings fully.

Cool Ideas for laser engraving leatherette

To complement these tips, I figured I’d share some favorite leatherette items that you can craft and engrave!

Favorite blanks to customize

Customizing blanks is a great way to build or scale a craft or customization business. You can create in bulk and take larger orders, as the bulk of your time will be setup!

Here are some ideas for laser engraving leatherette blanks:

• Hat patches like the one pictured here are SUPER popular
• Notebooks and journals with PU covers are an upscale pick
• Customize PU fashion blanks like handbags, totes, wallets…
• Bookmarks – especially magnetic and corner bookmarks!
• Keychains – leatherette keychains are quite upscale, but go a step further and laser engrave airtag holder keychains!

Cool things to cut, engrave, and craft

Instead of just customizing existing blanks, try cutting your own. This approach is better if you’re selling as more of an artisan rather than just doing customization work. It’s also the perfect approach for hobby crafters (like me!).

1. Cord tacos – those are little taco-shaped (or similar) wraps that go around cords to contain them.
2. Bracelets and wristbands – you’ll get the files for these two in your download.
3. Wristlets/key rings – these are longer straps that connect at the end back-to-back instead of overlapping (like a bracelet). Attach a keyring at the end to hold keys!
4. Earrings – these are still quite popular – be creative with your shapes.
5. Bows – leatherette bows are SO cute and I’ve made so many for my daughter! The ability to engrave your own designs onto them gives you a leg up on the competition!
6. Wallets – if you’re more proficient at crafting, try cutting and engraving custom wallets!

If you’re looking for more laser tips, read my guide to which colors acrylic can a diode laser cut and then check out these super fun wood and acrylic earrings!

How to Laser Engrave Leatherette – step by step

You’ll need

• A Diode laser (such as the xTool F1 Ultra)
• Safety protective goggles
• Leatherette patches or faux Suede fabric
• If cutting: masking tape
• For finishing the cord tacos and bracelet: stud rivets

Step by step tutorial

Laser engraving leatherette patches (or blanks)

1. Place your leatherette patch on the bed of the laser. (You don’t need the cutting panel for this one). Line up the blue and red lights to focus your laser.

2. Take a snapshot of your background and upload your design. Resize it to fit and “frame” to make sure it’s right.

3. Set your settings. Mine is a 20 watt diode laser at power 70%, speed 1500 mm/s, 1 pass, 120 lines per cm.

4. Hit process and watch it work (through protective gear!)

Laser engraving and cutting faux suede cord tacos and bracelets

1. Upload your designs and separate them into appropriate layers. You can cut the engraving pattern down to go over your cut layers only, but you’ll need to be more careful to get it right while cutting, since you’ll need to remove your engraved suedette to mask it.

Place your design.

2. Focus your laser on the leather. You DO want it on the cutting panel now.

3. Set the ENGRAVE layer as “output” and uncheck output on the CUT layers. To engrave, I used 60% power, 1750 speed, 1 pass, 300 lines per cm.

4. Hit process. When it’s done, remove your design from the machine.

5. To ensure I can see where my design is, I cut out the piece that I engraved to the end of the engraving (I made sure it was larger than the space I need.)

6. Mask it on the engraved side.

7. Set your cut layer to output and disable the engrave one. Settings on this one are power 70, speed 100, 2 passes.

8. Since it’s such a small piece, I recommend taping it down on the base. Make sure you’re still focused and frame your design.

9. Cut your design.

10. Remove the masking tape carefully, attach a clasp and enjoy!

I hope you enjoyed learning everything you need to know before laser engraving leatherette!

Download your free SVG files for laser engraving leatherette

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Laser Engraving Leatherette – Tips, ideas, & free files! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Today I’m going to teach you – hopefully – everything you need to know about engraving on wood with a laser. Wood is such a fabulous, versatile materials for laser engraving, and is perfect for beginners. It’s affordable and easy to use, and offers endless possibilities for customization because of the amount of blanks there are out there.

Today, I’m using the xTool F1 Ultra – read my review here and have one project done using the F1 – read my review here. You can use pretty much any Diode or CO2 laser engraver to do this – and you can read my comparison of the F1 vs F1 Ultra here to see which might be right for you.

Already have a laser? Let’s dive in!

The Basics of Engraving on Wood With a Laser

To start with, it’s important to know that not all lasers are the same. Unlike cutting machines (like your Cricut), laser engravers have lots of variability in their outcome and there’s no one-size-fits-all solution for engraving on wood with a laser.

But, I’m here to teach, and will share some basics to get you started.

Since wood is a soft material, it really engraves nicely and there are endless things you can do with it. There are so many blanks you can get in wood but some of my favorites are:

• Acacia cutting boards
• Wood and leather keychains
• Bamboo pens – these are so inexpensive and make fabulous handouts
• Coin-shaped bottle openers
• Coasters – especially wood slice coasters are a very popular choice too.

You can also cut your own blanks, but that’s for another time…

Safety tips

First of all, wood is a flammable material that sets off fumes.

Make sure you have a good air purifier or are venting outdoors. For me, the xTool SafetyPro air purifier is a game changer – read my review here.

It can also catch fire – and in fact, small flames are normal. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I keep a car fire extinguisher near my laser engravers.

Knowing your wood

Different hardness of woods burn/engrave at different paces and so start off by knowing which wood you’re working with. If you don’t know, you’ll just need to experiment more.

Woods with lots of variation in the grain might give you variation in the engrave as well – which can look great but catch you off guard if you’re not expecting it! So pay attention to the grain too.

Make test grids for EVERYTHING. Just do it. You’ll get the look you want that way and really have control over your outcome on a material where that is a built-in challenge.

Choosing the right settings

Choosing the right settings will include some trial and error. I WILL provide settings I used in this post just in case you’re using the same material and machine as me. However, I wouldn’t be teaching you if I wouldn’t share with you how I came to this setting, because every machine and environment is different.

I always start with the xTool recommended settings for that material or the material I think is closest to it. Make a test grid and choose which is best.

If I find that my wood is flaming up too much, the solution is really simple: do more passes at a higher speed. However, this will require some trial and error, so make sure you have a test scrap (or three) handy.

Different styles of engraving on wood with a laser

Not all engravings are the same – and when you create a test grid, you’ll see the options that are available! But I’ll break it down into three unique processes.

Simple engraving

I always recommend starting with a very simple name project when learning about engraving on wood with a laser: here, I engraved names of family members on bamboo wooden pens.

I did this one on the F1 – not the Ultra – and my settings were Power 90, Speed 200, 100 lines.

This basically just colors/burns the wood and doesn’t remove much material. It is also more susceptible to variations in the grain.

On the F1 Ultra, I made this “listen” keychain using default settings for walnut plywood.

You can see how the design is flush against the wood. This is great for basic personalization and a wood burned look. You can get really intricate designs with this.

The “Listen” SVG is included in a free download at the end of this post.

Deeper engraving

I crafted these wooden earrings on my F1 Ultra as well, and you can see that the engraving is MUCH deeper. It made an indentation that can then be filled with color like I did here.

It DID also darken the wood, giving a stained effect. Settings were 3mm Basswood default settings.

Deeper engraving gives an incredibly cool look – kind of like a carving. It goes beyond the wood burned look. I do recommend sticking to simpler designs with this. However, if you’re going intricate, like I did on this wood cutting board, keep the engrave lines thin and the in-between areas larger, so that the wood that sticks up isn’t too thin and brittle.

Layered Engraving

Once you get the hang of different settings, there’s another really cool trick you can try with laser engraving: layer your look! To do this, you need a layered SVG – which I include as a free download at the end of this post.

You’ll need to set each layer as a different setting. Because the image of the base flower is part of the layer below it as well, it’s repeating that burn, and comes out darker. You can also make the engrave settings on that one darker.

I also set a full layer of this project to “score” to create a much darker outline for a super cool effect.

My settings were as follows (chosen from the pine coaster default settings options):

• Base layer: Power 70, Speed 300, 100 lines
• Inner flower: Power 70, Speed 300, 100 lines (second pass over the base layer)
• Score outline: Duplicate the full base layer and apply settings Power 90, Speed 50
• Inner flower: I didn’t use this and just deleted it, but you can try making another layer if you want!

This flower is part of your free download, but you can get the full set here.

This is why you want to do a test grid for any material you will be engraving on wood with a laser – you can really gauge the look and dial in those settings correctly. And once again, practice on similar pieces – but be aware that the nature of wood is variation and no matter what, you’ll get some inconsistency. Embrace it as part of the beauty of nature!

Download your sample files for engraving on wood with a laser

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

What are your favorite things to engrave on wood with a laser? Comment below!

The post Engraving on Wood with a Laser appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Craft this adorable and gorgeous one cake topper from the SVG! When you’re done, you’ll want to check out this DIY felt first birthday crown template and SVG too. This post contains affiliate links.

We are right back with Baby Jay’s first birthday party crafts and here’s one of my favorite things I designed for it: a one cake topper SVG!

As a relatively new laser crafter, I really wanted to try making a wood cake topper for a change. There are ramifications to this, which I will share below – feel free to use the table of contents to skim the post if you’re short on time but I do offer lots of valuable tips for making this first birthday cake topper.

Baby Jay’s first birthday party had a “soft theme” of “watch me grow” – meaning not everything was strictly themed. We had some gentle botanicals – particularly gender neutral eucalyptus – incorporated, but it mostly centered on the colors beige, gold, and sage.

The goal of this one cake topper was to be able to have a basic “naked” cake (a bakery babka in this case) while keeping with the color scheme. I left some wood exposed, painted some, but more on that later.

Download the One Cake Topper SVG

This is a premium download, available in my Etsy shop. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Your download includes two version of the one cake topper SVG – one that has holes to hang any kind of mini banner from it, and one without holes to leave as is.

Tips for Making a Laser Cut One Cake Topper

I try to leave crafts like this open-ended for you, while providing the structure to craft it easily. Here are some tips and variations, as well as advice on making it safe to stick into your cake.

Tips for laser cutting this cake topper

I cut this using my xTool F1 Ultra – you can read my F1 Ultra review here. I do also have an F1, and while it can technically be cut using that machine too (read my xTool F1 review here) you will be more limited with size. It can only really get a functional size at all using the slide extension. Again, you can read my rundown of the xTool F1 vs. Ultra here to understand more about which laser you need.

As far as laser type, you’ll want a Diode or CO2 laser for this one.

Wood is a flammable material, and I usually prefer to more passes on lower power to avoid charring. I did not do this while laser cutting this one cake topper SVG and you an see the charring on it. Later crafts, such as these earrings, were cut using this method with fabulous results.

Can you cut this with your Cricut?

The Cricut Maker 3 can officially cut wood up to 2.4 mm using the knife blade, but it’s the only model that can do so. I crafted mine from 3mm basswood, so technically the Cricut would NOT be able to cut it. You CAN make this with thinner wood – it’s not going to get heavy use.

It is MUCH more efficient to cut it using a laser cutter.

However, you can cut this using your Cricut as an even ideal tool if you make it form one of the following materials that SHOULD work:

• Chipboard
• Cardstock
• Cardboard
• Foam board

Or a mix of the above. The thinner materials may need to be stabilized with extra layers. You may also want to cut off the “prongs” that are part of the SVG and just glue on skewers.

Making it food safe

One big mistake I made while crafting the one cake topper was that I didn’t realize that cut plywood isn’t food safe! The top surface can be, but plywood is made from layers of wood glued together, and the glue is not food safe.

Some solutions include:

• Make it using acrylic – see my rundown of which acrylics a diode laser can cut here.
• Seal the prongs using a food-safe sealer
• Wrap the prongs with plastic wrap or foil before inserting into the cake

Tips and variations

The SVG is designed to be crafted two ways. There are two layers, one that says “one” in a script font and one that serves as an outlined background for that and has the skewers. That’s the base.

I got creative, painting the top with Glitterific paint with confetti sequins in it, and the background a sage color to match the party.

You also have a version with holes and a version without holes. I made a sweet little pennant banner for it. I did not include an SVG for this because it’s overkill: just cut scraps of paper into triangles and hot glue them onto a bit of string. If you REALLY want to machine cut it, just add a triangle from your device’s design software and cut that.

More ideas for banners include:

• Felt pennants
• Mini pom poms
• Mini circle banners
• Beaded banners (I did one like this for A’s birthday and hope to share it when I can!)
• Mini tassels

Or, use the SVG without the holes and omit the banner completely. But I gotta say, it sorta made the whole cake. Do it.

How to Make a One Cake Topper

I always write out the tutorial exactly as I crafted it, however, you can definitely vary it as I mentioned above.

Materials

• 3mm Basswood Plywood
• Diode or CO2 Laser – I used the xTool F1 Ultra
• Paint – I used DecoArt Americana in Aloe and FolkArt Glitterific Polka Dots in Beach Party
• Paint brush
• Wood glue
• Paper or cardstock scraps
• Scissors
• String/ribbon/twine
• Hot glue gun

The one cake topper SVG in case you missed it

This is a premium download, available in my Etsy shop. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Instructions

1. Resize your topper to the size you want it. Cut your two layers.

2. Paint your layers as you’d like them to be. Allow them to dry completely.

3. Glue the “one” on the background so that the holes line up.

5. Cut long triangles from cardstock.

6. Cut a length of string about twice the width of your topper.

7. Glue on the triangles far enough apart that just a teensy bit of string shows through. The pennant portion should be long enough to reach almost from hole to hole but with a bit of drape.

8. Tie it to the hole on one side.

And glue the knot in place.

9. Trim off the extra string.

10. Repeat it on the other side, tying it so that the banner drapes slightly, just below the “one”. You don’t want it to drape too much, or it’ll interfere with the cake. You can glue the pennant to the part where it hits the stakes if you want.

Seal the wood to make it food safe! Insert into the cake and enjoy!

I hope you enjoyed this one cake topper SVG! In case you missed it, you can get it here!

The post One Cake Topper SVG & Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you were wondering if xTool’s latest products are worth it, this xTool SafetyPro series review of the air purifier and inline fan will help you determine if these are the right devices for you! If you’re still on the market for a laser engraver, check out my review of the xTool F1 vs F1 Ultra. This post contains gifted product and affiliate links.

I am always careful when reviewing new products, especially gifted items, to be fairly critical. Nothing is perfect – ever – and so I try to remove my biases by asking myself “what would I change?”

I am struggling with that with this xTool SafetyPro series review. I share this because you will see a glowing review here that will hopefully answer some of your questions.

But if you visit prior reviews, such as my xTool F1 Ultra review or my xTool F1 laser engraver review, you’ll see that while I love those machines, I do share any concerns I might have so that you can fairly determine whether it’s the correct machine for you or not. However, on this one, I really don’t have hangups. It has been such a game changer for me (the air purifier more than the inline fan) and I have not really had any critique for either one.

Understand that if I would, I would absolutely share it here.

So why are these so awesome? Let’s go over it.

Before I say a single other word: I was gifted these to add to my original reviews – I chose to do a full review on my own because I loved them so much. I hope that you will find that it did not affect my review process. My goal is to offer you the details you need to make an informed decision based on my third party tests and your specific needs.

I also spend a lot on materials to enable me to test it to the best of my abilities, and spent many work hours testing it, so if you do choose to purchase, please do so through my affiliate links! It doesn’t cost you any extra and helps support the work that I do here.

What is the xTool SafetyPro series? Brief overview

I am not going to go over every feature here. That is what product listings are for. In this xTool SafetyPro series review, my goal is to share my perspective, so I’ll run through quickly what it is, what it does, and why it was such a game changer for me.

Air Purifier – AP2

The Air Purifier is an upgraded smart automated air purifier for laser engravers. It also works for other odor-heavy purposes.

Unboxing

xTool’s packaging always impresses me. It’s obvious that they have a high-end packaging engineer. everything is tightly packed in foam, and there are even straps to help lift the air purifier out.

The box comes with everything you need to connect it to an xTool laser engraver, with multiple options for different machine compatibility (you get it in the box and don’t have to order the correct model).

You do need to take all the filters out to remove various packaging components, but it took minutes to unbox and assemble.

What it does

Laser engraving produces some serious fumes, and needs to be vented. However, if you don’t have an outdoor source to vent to – or if you want even more protection – an air purifier does as its name alludes: it purifies the air by filtering out contaminants before letting it back out.

The reason this air purifier is so unique is twofold:

• It uses separated filters – with five layers of filtration. With most air purifiers, when a filter needs to be replaced, you replace the whole thing. Multi-layer filters are very pricey to replace. Separating the layers into multiple filters allows you the benefits of multiple types of filtration, however you can replace each one as needed. You can see in your Creative Space device settings where you’re up to with each filter.

• It is is fully a automated smart purifier that communicates with and connects with certain xTool laser engraver models seamlessly. Not only does that start it working so you don’t need to remember, but it also knows how much filtration you need for that specific type.

The SafetyPro AP2 comes with a bluetooth dongle for compatible machines, and once I set it up with my F1 Ultra, every time I used it, the settings for it showed up on my Creative Space app.

Inline Fan – IF2

The super-compact inline fan connects to the venting hoses between the xTool laser engraver and the purifier.

Installation

The xTool SafetyPro IF2 (Inline Fan) was incredibly easy to install. It simply meant adding a new portion of vent hose and placing the fan in between.

The box comes with optional wall mounts so you can tack it up on the wall if needed. On that note, my one issue with it is space – it does require you to have a bit more space to run the extra hose, however with a bit of wiggling around, I worked it out.

And yes, replacing my previous air purifier saved me so much space anyway!

What it does

The Inline Fan works like a vacuum cleaner, suctioning the fumes right into the vent hoses. The goal is to ensure less fume and particle leakage and for me, it’s especially helpful when doing larger projects with the cover open.

xTool SafetyPro Series Review & Feedback

As I mentioned, if you want more of a feature-by-feature review, you’ll want to check out the product listing. You don’t need me for that. xTool is very good at visually outlining the features and what their products do. Their website showcases each layer of filter, what it does, and to which degree. So go check that out.

My job is to share personal feedback and opinions, so here we go.

Overall analaysis

I was having a bit of an issue with my xTool F1 Ultra’s filtration. To be fair, it was a ME issue – not an xTool issue, but sometimes we need solutions to personal issues.

I have roughly 1-2 hours of crafting time daily, highly dependent on baby’s nap time. And I need to use that time to produce the bulk of the content for this blog. So every time I tried crafting my laser content, I was in a rush and forgot to turn on the air purifier – until I smelled that I forgot.

Besides for being a comfort issue, it’s a safety issue – especially if I had one of my older kids watching me!

The F1’s smaller purifier is automated (it turns on when the machine turns on) but it’s too small for the Ultra. So the xTool SafetyPro Air Purifier is a game changer for me.

It moves along super easily on casters and honestly looks so good compared to other industrial-looking models. It’s so sleek and modern.

In case you were concerned that so many layers of filters can be confusing and complicated, you simply aren’t familiar with xTool’s execution yet. Each filter features a color coded and labeled strap so that you can simply pull out what you need. And then a gorgeous, sleek cover goes over it.

And not only can each layer be replaced individually, but the AP2 Air Purifier features a first level of entry – a cyclone – which is a washable layer. This helps prevent the pre-filter from clogging, and helps prolong the shelf life of the filters by ten times according to xTool. So it’s a money-saving feature that is practical and reduces the waste involved with everyday use.

The inline fan works much like vacuum cleaner, and you can see it in action. As it’s working, I see much more of the smoke being pulled towards the fan in the back of the F1 Ultra.

I think this is a game-changer for larger, open-projects, and for use with the conveyer.

Project by Project breakdown: Testing it on high-odor materials

Please note that I am not a scientist, and I can’t measure odor levels in any scientific way. I am sharing my personal crafting experience and perspective.

Acrylic

Acrylic is one of my favorite materials to cut – as I shared in this post outlining which colors acrylic can be cut using a Diode laser – and can give off a plastic-y smell.

The AP2 Air Purifier definitely help improve the air quality as I worked. You can see the air being pulled back by the fans. I tried making some layered wood and acrylic earrings for you to see how high-fume projects can be improved with the xTool SafetyPro Series.

This is one where it hits me hard when I forget to turn on the air purifier. As I mentioned, this alone makes it a game changer for me.

Leather

In previous reviews I mentioned not really liking to use laser to cut leather – and I’m really not committed to that. I mean, it is somewhat cumbersome to set up leather for cutting machine processing – laser is much more straightforward.

One of my biggest reservations was the smell it gives off.

It was radically improved using the SafetyPro series tools. I actually shut it off in middle to remind myself how bad it was before – and it was bad without. I quickly turned the purifier back on.

Now I just need to get around the inconsistencies in thickness of leather, and figure out a go-to setting for cutting. And especially since leather is a beautiful material to engrave using laser, I plan to give this some more time.

Get the SVG for these earrings here.

Wood

As you can imagine, wood lets off a lot of smoke, and while other purifiers handled it well, the SafetyPro series handled it even better. Combine that with the Inline Fan pulling all the smoke in – and the fact that I usually do have the lid open, since I cut larger pieces of wood – it was once again, a game changer.

Wood also creates a lot of particle compared to the other materials I reviewed. Having the cyclone to reduce that, and multiple layers of filter that can be replaced more affordably, makes this a must-have for wood crafters.

Get the SVG for these earrings here.

Is the xTool SafetyPro Series worth it?

The air purifier

The SafetyPro AP2 Air Purifier seems to be the new default from xTool when purchasing larger machines – including the F1 Ultra and P2. The F1 seems to still come with the desktop purifier.

I highly recommend you get the bundle with the purifier. If you already own a standard air purifier, I personally think it’s worthwhile – because you can’t put a price on your health (or sometimes you could, when the bills start coming….)

I haven’t tested it with the F1 so I can’t really speak to how it automates with that, but just for the cost savings on filters, if you go through lots of filters, the AP2 is a win.

However, if you’re taking it on shows, you’ll probably also want the desktop purifier – at least to take along – since it’s more compact.

The inline fan

This is a much lower cost item that adds a visible benefit. Need I say more?

I recommend this if you have the space – or can make the space – to route it.

Who it’s best for

I always like to include a little synopsis in my reviews of who a product is best for, who it seems to be targeted towards – based on the benefit it provides, not necessarily based on brand advertising.

With this I’d like to say “anyone who uses a laser engraver!” However, more specifically:

• If you have a larger machine (too big for the desktop purifier) and do shows, this is much more portable – and looks nicer too!

• If you need automation – whether you do quick projects like me or just forget, this will be your savior.

• If you’re working indoors with no proper ventilation, or want to winterize your workspace, you’ll want a high performing duo to help improve your air quality – and this is a winner.

Got any questions on my xTool SafetyPro Series review? Comment below and I’ll try to answer ASAP!

The post xTool SafetyPro Series Review – Air Purifier (AP2) and Inline Fan (IF2) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking into laser engravers, or already own one and want to know its limitations, I’ve got you.

As a jewelry crafter who works with multiple materials, xTool’s F1 Ultra is a win for me. It can really do a lot with metal, as you can see from my xTool F1 Ultra review, and can work with many other jewelry materials as well: leather, black acrylic, wood, and more.

But what about colored acrylics? xTool’s Diode lasers are advertised as cutting and engraving black acrylic and they do a fabulous job. I decided to put it fully to the test.

How I ran the colored acrylics Diode cut tests

Testing parameters

I decided which colors to test based on those listed as Diode friendly. I wanted to see just how far I can push its limits and in fact, it went much further than I thought surprising me in some situations.

All of these were tested on the xTool F1 Ultra dual 20 Watt fiber and 20 Watt diode laser. They should work with the F1 as well – although the Ultra will work faster (you can read my comparison of the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra here)

For each color, I ran two side-by-side tests. One just cuts in a bit of a more interesting shape, and the other has an engraved design, a scored design, and is cut as well.

I started with xTool’s default setting for each of these and share my adjustments below. It’s important to note, when engraving and cutting ANY material on any machine that provided settings are just a starting point. You’ll want to take your own notes and run your own tests.

The right machine for the job

Before I even begin running you through my tests, I feel the need to issue a disclosure: a diode laser is NOT the laser you should get if your primary focus is acrylics.

Having the right tool for the job is important. The problem is, there isn’t really a single laser that does everything – the science just doesn’t work that way.

xTool got jewelry crafters pretty close with the F1Ultra, because it’s really two lasers. But for acrylics, a CO2 laser – such as the P2 – is really the correct tool to dedicate to acrylics.

However, if you’re a jewelry crafter who needs to invest in one machine for now, or doesn’t have the space for a large Co2 laser, knowing exactly what you can do with a diode laser can be incredibly helpful – which is why I ran these tests! I needed this info for myself!

In fact, if you’re not a jewelry crafter and are crafting larger projects, you’ll want something like the P2 that can craft on a larger scale than us jewelry crafters need as your primary machine.

Getting the right acrylic

Believe it or not, I’ve run tests in the past, with very poor results but today’s tests were far more impressive for one reason: I got the right acrylics this time.

Cast acrylic

The acrylic you buy must be cast acrylic. This might seem like a minor issue (just buy one that says “cast” however, I’ve found that many poor quality manufacturers inject inaccurate keywords into their listings.

All of the acrylics I’m testing today are from xTool’s cast acrylic lineup. I’ve found xTool to have consistently high quality results, making for much less wasted material, less trial and error, and more polished final pieces.

Whether you choose to get yours from xTool or not, make sure getting from high quality source. And I don’t mean Amazon. That’s where I got my bad acrylics from – multiple vendors means poor oversight.

Either way, I highly recommend xTool’s acrylics, and all the tests below were done on xTool’s acrylics.

Black Acrylic

Because I’ve tested 3mm black acrylics thoroughly before – including while making these lasered acrylic earrings and while reviewing the xTool F1 – I did not include it here in today’s tests.

Black acrylic is the most straightforward. It can be scored and engraved using the Diode or Infrared laser, and can be cut beautifully using the Diode laser.

Testing Acrylic Limitations by Color

The point here was really to see how far we can go with each color, so I’ll be running through them one by one to show you my results.

Again, all of these were run on xTool’s default settings. Some needed to be cut on fewer passes. Again, I recommend running test grids for both cut AND engrave to see if you need fewer passes.

Chrome Yellow

Chrome yellow cut and engraved beautifully. I did need to change the cut settings to three passes.

The score was not so nice but the engrave was beautiful. I’d imagine I just need to play with score settings (it seems to have burnt it a bit). Since I usually engrave and rarely score, I’m not concerned – if it engraved nicely, there’s no reason it wouldn’t score nicely with the correct settings.

I do love the darker yellow – it’s bright and cheerful without being tacky, and I’m excited to work with this one.

Dark Red

Red is an incredibly diode-friendly color – in fact, I think it should be listed alongside black as a default color for diode lasers!

I needed to change the settings to two passes but otherwise the settings were accurate. It cut, scored, and engraved beautifully and quickly. The results are gorgeous.

I chose dark red because it’s classier than bright red, but my understanding is that bright red would do exactly the same thing.

Brown

Brown is another color that is incredibly underrated when it came to cutting and I got lovely results. It’s a classy color that has so many uses, and looks gorgeous with gold in jewelry making.

The default settings were the correct ones. It cut, scored, and engraved quickly and smoothly, making it an optimal choice for jewelry crafts!

Grass Green

Stepping away from the warm tones, grass green also cut nicely, although with a few more passes. I did have to reduce it to 5 passes from the default settings.

With the success of this one, I am definitely wanting to try more greens – such as emerald green, and even venturing into teal – and seeing how close we can get to blue and still cut.

On that note: I did not try any blues. That’s because the Diode laser is a blue light that can not cut blue acrylic. I have heard of it cutting blue-adjacent colors in the past, but did not test those on this round.

More Specialty Acrylics

I was told and have head from many people that a diode laser can not cut or engrave translucent materials. But I’m a rebel at hear and tried it anyway – and I’m glad I did!

Here are my results.

Translucent Glitter (Red)

On both this one and the next, I had to frame a bit differently as the light did not show up on it. I had it already focused from a previous acrylic of the same thickness. And for framing, I just saw where the rectangle was on my cutting panel and placed the acrylic there.

The engraving on the translucent red glitter acrylic looks lovely. I’m not gonna lie – it could be a bit pebbly, maybe some people expect it to be smooth, but I love the look.

And the cut surprised me! It’s not the absolute cleanest, but I’d definitely consider it a success as it is totally TOTALLY workable. In fact, really all it has is slight ridges on the sides, which if you ask me, looks intentional. The top is totally smooth.

This is a big deal for those of you who like to create holiday jewelry or ornaments. I do NOT know if you’d get the same results on green or gold glitter, though.

The default settings were the correct ones.

Translucent Red

The translucent red one surprised me as well. First of all, it engraves nicely – it’s a bit raised/texured but looks good to me. It scores beautifully. That means that blanks in this color can definitely work. Note: I tested it both with the backing on the reverse and without – results were the same.

The surprise? It cuts through – but not neatly. It basically melted through it enough, bubbling up, and cutting through. So you have a complete cut but with rough, and uneven edges.

This is a solution to help you trim down larger pieces – but not for precision work. There were no settings in place for this at all, so I used regular red settings.

Now here’s the real kicker – I gave myself TWO MINUTES to sand the edges and see what we can do – and it came out fabulous! Using a rotary tool, I started with a slightly coarser disc, and then a slightly finer one.

I even rounded off the edges a bit for a more polished look. I would need a much smaller sanding option to do the inside of the pomegranate, but for more basic outline/shapes that is definitely a solution, as long as you’re willing to give it an extra couple of minutes for assembly time.

Since it DOES engrave nicely, that means that I can cut my blanks, sand them, and engrave beautiful pendants from translucent red acrylic.

Translucent Yellow

Here is where the biggest surprise happened. Translucent yellow is the most translucent color I tried by far. And it worked like a charm.

The laser actually created a neon reflective light on it and it cut, scored, and engraved beautifully! I’m so happy I tried it!

I used the default settings, but needed one less pass.

Thick (1/5 inch) Acrylic

While not actually a different color, I wanted to play with something beyond 3mm acrylics, so the next stage was 1/5 inch. It worked beautifully, allowing me to create better, stronger projects. I still haven’t tested the acrylic thickness to the max.

Frosted Black Acrylic

Here’s where I had a bit of a negative surprise – frosted (matte) black acrylic did not quite work nearly as smoothly as its glossy counterpart.

It cut beautifully using the default settings (although I’d see if one pass less works too).

However, I found the score and engrave didn’t works so well. The score hardly showed up (something that can be played with in settings but…) and the engrave wasn’t even – it had ridges in the middle.

It also sweated a bit, so the finish is no longer as nice.

It’s gorgeous, though, and a fabulous option for cut-only pieces.

Which colors acrylic can a diode laser cut? Final analysis.

Ultimately, the xTool F1 Ultra outperformed what I was told it can do with acrylics, and I do hope to work with them more using this machine! However, as expected, it did not do everything.

If you’re debating getting the xTool F1 Ultra you want a fiber (or the F1 for the infrared), but want to do acrylic, you can do A LOT – definitely more than its reputation allows.

However, if your dedication is to intricate, large, or multi-colored acrylics, you probably want the P2 CO2 laser.

You want to get the right tool for what you need. And keep in mind, if you’re setting up a business, you can start your line with some colors, and as you grow, expand your toolset, and expand your color lines as well.

And of course, whatever you choose, make sure to get good quality cast acrylic!

I hope this helped! Comment with any questions!

The post Which Colors Acrylic can a Diode Laser Cut (& Engrave) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This comparison of the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra is based on my personal experiences using both. I did receive test machines to facilitate other posts, however, I was not compensated for this post, and it represents my opinions only. This post contains affiliate links.

The moment I received my second xTool machine, the F1 Ultra I knew I had to make a post comparing the xTool F1 vs F1 Ultra.

Now that it’s been around for a few months, I am ready to share everything I know. Please note: I will try to avoid getting overly technical. I plan to zoom in on the comparison itself. First, I’ll share a brief overview of each machine and then I’ll outline the differences.

Before I say a single other word: I was gifted both machines – for the original reviews (I chose to do this post on my own). I hope that you will find that it did not affect my review process. I will be sharing a factual play by play of how each machine performed in different circumstances so that you can make an informed decision based on my third party tests and your specific needs.

I also spent a lot on materials beyond what xTool sent me, to enable me to show you what it can do to the best of my abilities, and spent weeks testing, so if you do choose to purchase, please do so through my affiliate links! It doesn’t cost you any extra and helps support the work that I do here.

Xtool F1 Vs. F1 Ultra Basic Machine Specs

xTool F1 Features

You can ready my full xTool F1 review here for more details and a thorough play-by-play of all the features, material tests, etc.

This review is really just focusing on the comparable features between the two machines.

The xTool F1 is a compact laser engraver that is fabulous for small spaces, to bring from place to place, and for a large range of materials.

• 10 Watt Blue Light/Diode Laser (for materials such as wood, black acrylic and some other opaque colors, leather, PU leather, plastics, paper, and more)
• 2 Watt Infrared Laser (for marking metals)
• Work Surface: 4.5 x 4.5 inch rounded rectangle (approximate). Expandable to 15.75 x 4.5 inches with slide extension for cutting and engraving
• Footprint: 7 x 9.25 x 13 inch (approximate)
• Max Working Speed: 4000mm/s (engrave, slower with RA2 rotary or slide extension)
• Focus: Manual (semi-automatic if you measure your blank)
• Weight: Work Surface

Additional features:

• Removable work plate

xTool F1 Ultra Features

Read my full xTool F1 Ultra review here for a full rundown of features and specs, plus thorough tests on loads of materials.

• 20 Watt Blue Light/Diode Laser (for higher efficiency with materials such as wood, black acrylic and some other opaque colors, leather, PU leather, plastics, paper, and more)
• 20 Watt Fiber Laser (for engraving, embossing metals, cutting thin metals, and embossing stone)
• Work Surface: 8.6 x 8.6 inch work surface square (approximate). Expandable to 220×500 with conveyer for engraving only.
• Footprint: 10.7×14.7×19.4 inch (approximate)
• Max Working Speed: 10,000mm/s (engrave, slower with RA2 rotary or conveyer)
• Focus: Automatic or manual
• Weight: 32.4 lbs (14.7 kg)

Additional features are listed below.

Machine Functionality of the xTool F1 vs F1 Ultra

At the end of the day, while specs are nice to see, your reall question when comparing the xTool F1 vs the F1 Ultra is – what can each one do? More importantly, what can the Ultra do that the flagship F1 can’t?

Here, I break it down bit by bit.

First of all, let’s talk size. If you raise the head of the Ultra, you can literally fit the F1 inside.

I’ll share more about cutting sizes below.

What the F1 Ultra can do that the F1 can’t

Deep Engrave Metal

While the F1, when run slow enough, can scratch the surface of metal, it mostly just marks it (a nice, dark, permanent print).

While this is a fabulous feature that can allow you to create beautiful personalized jewelry, the F1 Ultra not only does this more efficiently, but more effectively.

On the Ultra, you get a real engrave.

Embossing

On that note, you can actually emboss metal! Have you ever seen those “challenge coins” – that is, those commemorative coins that people like to collect in different themes? They have these fabulous embossings in different themes.

The F1 Ultra can go quite deep. I made a beautiful wax seal stamp with my logo, using a blank brass stamping blank. I’ve also seen people do reliefs for jewelry making (see Jack Jellies’ videos on YouTube)

And while the F1‘s 2 Watt Infrared laser can do a beautiful engraving on a slate coaster, the Ultra can emboss a gorgeous, intricately detailed 3D design.

Cutting Metal

And here’s the real whammy. The xTool F1 Ultra can actually cut thin metal (something that the F1 doesn’t even consider thinking of doing). The question is really – how far can you push it, how thick can it go?

I still haven’t gone as far as I think I can and the thickest I’ve tried on sterling silver is 24 gauge. I plan to eventually try even thicker.

But it still creates some rather impressive jewelry. The stainless steel and brass I cut are thick enough for actual jewelry pieces, but take time.

Thin brass cuts quickly and efficiently, and makes beautiful inlays in wood (a process I hope to share soon).

What the F1 is capable of that the Ultra isn’t

Let’s start with one premise: if the F1 can cut or engrave it, the Ultra definitely can. It has the same baseline specs plus much more.

But there are specific feature benefits to the original F1 that you don’t get with the Ultra.

Portability

The F1 Ultra is definitely more transportable than most other lasers, however the F1 is designed to be portable. xTool even makes a (separate) case for the F1!

It can be lifted by a simple handle on top, while the Ultra pretty much needs to be hugged all around to be lifted. It weighs less than 1/3 and is much less bulky.

Not only that, but the F1 requires only a desktop air purifier to clean the air that it lets out, while the F1 Ultra requires the larger version.

So while it totally is feasible to take the F1 Ultra onsite, it’s not designed for that and will require much more effort.

Space Saving

While the F1 Ultra is once again, much smaller in footprint than many other laser engravers, it does require more space. For reference, I have my F1 on a standing desk, and my F1 Ultra requires a small folding table.

Part of this requirement is because of the conveyer – it’s LONG compared to the slide extension – and the ventilation required in the form of a larger air purifier. If you are venting outside, and don’t plan to use the extensions, the only significant difference in space is really the height.

Expanded Cutting

Possibly one of my ONLY frustrations with the F1 Ultra is the fact that there’s no extension beyond the work surface for cutting. That means that the basic work surface is the maximum for cutting.

Since the conveyer doesn’t have a cutting protection it can only be used for larger engraving.

That said, I haven’t yet cut anything larger. The F1 series isn’t designed for large format cutting project. I did make an adorable cake topper on the Ultra for my son’s birthday, and it was large enough to cut that out of the box.

That being said, while it makes it wider (13 inches to the Ultra’s 8.5-ish), it still is only 4.5 inches high. So the F1 Ultra can cut up to 8.5×8.5 while the F1 can do 13 inches wide by 4.5 high.

Removable Surface Plate

Finally, the flagship F1 has a removable surface plate – that is, the work surface. That allows you to place the entire machine on a larger item to engrave it in that one spot, through the hole. That makes it easier than balancing a large item on the base of the machine, gives you better protection with the cover in place, and allows you to more easily engrave something large in increments.

Note: the inconsistencies in the engrave is due to inconsistencies in the bamboo material and is an issue across all laser engravers. I find that doing a darker/deeper engrave to begin with does mitigate some of the issue.

And finally, working hand-in-hand with the handle and portability, that allows you to engrave very large items that can’t be brought to the space. For example, you can hold it in place to engrave on a car, engrave a house number directly on the brick of the house etc.

Once again, this is a feature I haven’t really used. It’s not so practical to bring it out, hook it up to power, and then hold it in place while it works….

More functionality perks of the F1 Ultra vs. the F1

Once again, the premium price you’re paying for the F1 Ultra comes with perks that personally, I think that once you’re investing in a machine like this are worthwhile. They allow you to take more jobs, produce more and do more with one machine.

One of the major upgrades on the xTool F1 Ultra vs. the F1 is the camera. I always thought I wanted that feature to help me place my designs, but it actually adds loads of features beyond that.

First of all, it adds an automatic focus feature (just hit “focus” and it adjusts to focus). I didn’t highlight that much below because I tend to just manually focus anyway.

But it also adds other features, and you’ll see the camera mentioned in a few below.

Batch Production

There are two major upgrades on the F1 Ultra that allow for batch production:

1. The camera and accompanying software
2. The conveyer extension.

The camera can detect items on the surface that are the same as the “sample” item you set, and place your design on all of them. This works even without the conveyer extension – just fill what you can fit on the surface.

The conveyer allows you to use that function, constantly, adding more, and batch producing large quantities. The accuracy is impressive.

This means you can take on larger jobs – creating custom favors and swag, craft kit components, promotionals, in a very realistic amount of times. XTool calls it “factory level production” and in my opinion, it really is that.

Curved Surface Engraving

The camera on the F1 Ultra allows it to map out a curved surface, and adjust the focus to engrave along it. While you can get the RA2 Pro Rotary Attachment for BOTH to engrave around a cylinder, sometimes you don’t want to bother with that (if you’re just engraving the front anyway) – and some curved items aren’t cylinders.

The Ultra allows you to map out the inside of a bowl, the outside of a coffee tin, etc, getting a beautiful curved surface engrave.

(Note: the software for this hasn’t been formally released and is currently in invite-only beta mode.)

Larger baseline cutting surface

I’ve mentioned that the cutting surface on the F1 is wider with the slide extension, the baseline size of the Ultra is 4x the size – that is, double the width and double the height.

So when it comes to cutting something like a cake topper or letters for a sign (individually) your base size is much more “real”. (Note: you DO need to seal or wrap the sticks on your plywood cake toppers to make them food safe).

Higher focus range/taller

I had this napkin holder hanging around my house after I couldn’t really engrave it with the F1. While technically I could place the F1 on top with the plate removed to engrave, the hole was too small and it wouldn’t balance well.

When I got the F1 Ultra I was absolutely thrilled to be able to engrave it – and it did a beautiful job, twelve minutes on each side. I turned an ordinary napkin holder into a beautiful table centerpiece featuring my own artwork.

Straight Edges

One issue with the F1 is that, due to the nature of a galvo laser (that is, a laser that is bounced around with mirrors and not on a track, which makes it MUCH faster but limits surface size) is that if you cut too far out from the central laser, you end up with a bit of an angled edge on thicker materials. (Note: the below photo is an extreme example of something small and close up cut at the farthest edge).

The solution is obviously to place things closer to the center. That works beautifully for smaller items, but larger items need to be cut closer to the edges.

On the xTool F1 Ultra, because the laser is placed higher up, you get less angling on a comparable sized engrave. If you get close to the edges, you do end up with similar, but again, the edges are much further out, giving you better cut sizes.

While it might still not be the best option for creating actual build items that require flush edges, it does make your regular cuts much prettier.

More benefits

The xTool F1 Ultra was created with loads more features that work with the premium nature of the machine. They really thought of it all.

• Movable Screen – I find that the movable nature of the operation really helps my efficiency in the craft room. I can place it near where I am doing whatever I’m doing as the machine works.
• Storage/offline functionality – yes, the xTool f1 Ultra has actual storage space on it! That means that you can work offline as well if you’ve stored files! That actually adds to the portability and gives it a leg up over the xTool F1 in that respect, as long as you’re willing to schlep a little more.
• Double tap repeat task – Easily batch produce even without buttons, etc by double tapping on the green button on the screen to repeat the last task.
• Higher range/Better colors – While the F1 can get quite the color range on stainless steel, the Ultra has even more color capabilities.

Which machine is best for you – the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra?

Creating a comparison chart for yourself

The best way to choose a large investment like this is to make a list.

• Write your must-haves
• Write your love-to-haves
• Write your good-to-haves

If one checks all your must-haves and one doesn’t that’s your answer. If they both have all your must-haves, or both don’t, you can assign points, make a ranking system, etc. Choose that way.

I personally think that if you’re investing in a hobby, sticking with small orders, looking for an extra machine for onsite engraving, or really don’t have the budget, go for the xTool f1. It’s a tiny powerhouse of a machine, and I loved it from the first day I owned it.

If you can spring for it, and especially if this is any sort of business investment, the F1 Ultra is worthwhile. It’s much easier to recoup a larger investment with small orders than a smaller investment with small orders. The fact that it allows you to batch produce will help you get past the two-figures and into the three and four figure single orders, without working through the nights.

It also can create much more high quality engraves on metal, works much faster on all the materials that the F1 DOES do efficiently, and is a more fully-featured machine.

And the fact that it can do more than the F1 can do will allow you to say “yes” to more types of jobs.

Thinking long term

Finally, one thing that I see consistently when people purchase craft machines for business: if you start with a cheaper option that doesn’t quite do all you want to do, but is a good starting point, you often end up purchasing the more expensive machine eventually.

That’s not a bad thing necessarily – testing things out and earning back the funds on the first before springing for the larger investment – especially when it’s worthwhile to own both machines anyway (which it is if you do craft shows).

But you may prefer to first get the one that can do more.

Whichever one you choose, I am quite certain that you’ll fall in love with it. Feel free to comment or shoot me an email if you have any questions pertaining to your specific machine needs and I’ll try to answer ASAP based on my testing experience!

Which machine do you think is more impressive – the compact portability of the xTool F1 vs. the powerhouse metalwork of the xTool F1 Ultra? Comment below!

The post xTool F1 vs. F1 Ultra – Side by Side Comparison appeared first on Moms and Crafters.