Thinking about trying rug tufting at home? This Clawlab review covers the tufting gun, the aluminum frame, and a real project making tufted initials for my kids. When you’re done, check out my LaserPecker LX2 review too! The kit was gifted, and this post includes affiliate links.

In this Clawlab review, you’ll get a clear understanding of my take on setup, ease of use, and what to expect as a first-time tufter.

Some highlights of what you’ll see below include:

• Fast tension on the frame
• A one-hand gun that feels like a lot like a glue gun
• Smooth speed control
• Critiques of a few missing extras – like a yarn mount and a shearing tool.

If you want a compact setup that stores easily, this is a strong option for small rugs and wall decor. I’ll also share tips that saved my second take, like using latex carpet adhesive instead of thin craft glue.

First, you may prefer to watch the in-depth video review to see it in action:

What you get in the Clawlab tufting kit, and what you still need

The Clawlab tufting kit comes ready for a first project, and the differenet tools feel thought out. The frame focuses on tension and portability. The gun focuses on handling and – portability too! It all fits into a streamlined workflow you can pack away and use even if you do not have a dedicated craft room.

In the box: gun, frame, cloth, backing, yarn

• Tufting gun with USB-C to USB-C cable, a power brick, and an EU adapter
• Sturdy aluminum frame with side clamps and a rolling feed bar
• Starter piece of monks cloth (primary cloth), about 36 inches wide
• A piece of carpet backing
• 10 smallish balls of 8‑ply tufting yarn
• Several wire threaders
• A hard case for compact storage

The power cable is long, which helps if your outlet is not close by. The case keeps everything together between sessions.

If you want just one of the elements, you can get them individually – or as a set. Get the Clawlab Tufting Gun, the Clawlab Frame, or the all-in-one Clawlab Kit.

Supplies you’ll probably want to get in addition

• Latex carpet adhesive, not thin craft glue. I tried Mod Podge first. It was too runny, soaked in, and cost more per ounce than proper adhesive. The right glue makes a big difference. I used this latex carpet adhesive.
• Extra monks cloth. The Clawlab cloth gripped better than the generic roll I tried. If you can, get the tufting cloth from Clawlab.
• Backing materials: felt, or felt plus cardboard for stiffness – this is optional. The kit comes with rug backing cloth, but if making something like wall art or other small projects, felt is a great option.
• Fabric scissors, like these sharp fabric scissors
• Rug shaver or shears for finishing
• Markers for sketching your design
• Optional: a projector for transferring and tracing designs.

The included 8‑ply yarn are the ideal weight for your tufting, but it really just comes with a practice amount, so I recommend stocking up on much more yarns.

Thinner acrylic yarns from your stash can work if you double thread them. You’ll use more yardage when you do that.

Who it’s good for

This kit is a great fit for beginners, casual makers, and sellers of small rugs or wall art who want fast setup at home. It is great for small spaces since the gun packs into a case and the frame stores flat. It is less ideal if you need very wide pieces in one pass or want built-in yarn management. You can go long, but you’re limited to the width of the kit. It is good for pros too who don’t need anything wider than the existing width.

Clawlab Frame review: fast tension, solid clamps, easy storage

The frame is where setup stress usually lives when starting out with tufting. Clawlab’s easy to use frame eliminates that. It clamps to a surface, feeds the fabric with a rolling bar, and locks tension with simple knobs. That means you can get the fabric tension tight without wrestling nails or re-stretching again and again.

Setup and clamping in minutes

The side clamps grab a counter or table with a decent lip. Rubberized feet help the frame stand and prevent sliding.

Once it is clamped, it stays put under pressure – even if you’re pushing your gun into it. I mounted it on my kitchen counter and was tufting within minutes. If your desk has drawers right below the work surface, pick a surface with a few inches of depth so the clamps can have what to hold onto.

Tension knobs and rolling feed explained

The top bar has hook and loop to grab the monks cloth.

You roll the cloth onto the bar, seat the rod in the side notches, then feed it down through the upper and then lower bar slots. Pull about 7 cm of cloth through before you lock it. That little bit matters.

After that, crank the lower knob, make sure it clicks into place. Attach the fabric to the side bars and then crank the top knob. Keep turning until the fabric sounds tight when you tap it. You want that crisp, drum-like feel. It’ll take you a try or to to totally get the hang of it but once you do, it’ll be super easy.

Portability and build quality

The frame is thick aluminum, so it is sturdy but still light enough to carry with one hand. I could move it along with the gun in the other hand without a problem. It stores flat and slides behind a shelf or into a closet. If you do not have a craft room, that portability matters.

Limits to know before you buy

You need full-width cloth to get side-to-side tension, and you will use a few extra inches to lock it in. The width is fixed, not modular. If you plan to do very wide pieces in one pass, that is a constraint. The cloth edges can fuzz a bit when you clamp and release. That is normal for tufting and not a flaw in the frame.

Clawlab Tufting Gun review: one-hand control, quiet power, smooth results

The gun changed the way tufting felt in my hands. Most guns are bulky and two-handed. This one grips like a full-size glue gun, which makes it less intimidating. It is still weighty and solid, just simpler to hold and steer.

Ergonomics and handling

The plastic shell encloses the metal mechanism, so there are fewer exposed parts to catch on things. The one-hand grip is friendly if you deal with wrist or elbow issues. Tendinitis keeps me from lots of crafting experiences, and Clawlab makes tufting still be accessible for me.

Keeping the barrel straight does have a short learning curve, since two-hand models force that alignment. After a few practice passes, straight lines felt natural.

Speed dial and noise

A color bar on the back shifts from green to blue as you twist the dial. There is no numeric readout, but you can count clicks if you care. I outlined on a slower speed, then bumped it up for fills to get tight, even loops. The motor is quiet for a tufting tool. It gets louder when it hits the cloth, but it is still within pleasant ranges for heavy crafting.

Threading, yarn, and tension tips

You thread the gun with the included wire tool. Keep the gun off while threading – I kept forgetting to turn mine off but it seemed to power off on its own.

Leave plenty of yarn slack so the gun can feed smoothly. Before gluing, you’ll want to just yank out those hanging starting threads. 8‑ply tufting yarn fed best. If you use thinner acrylic, double thread it so the pile is full. There is a built-in tension adjuster on the gun, but beginners can leave it alone at first.

Real use: curves, outlines, and jams

Outlines were clean, and the gun handled tight curves nicely. A lighter one-hand body makes it easier to rotate your wrist around a bend without moving your whole body. I had no jams AT ALL while testing. Every hiccup came down to yarn issues, like a knot in the skein or not enough slack. I was absolutely amazed at how smooth the experience was for a beginner.

The hard case keeps the gun, threaders, and cable together so nothing wanders off between sessions.

Hands-on test: tufted kids initials, step by step

For the test project, I made letters for my kids to hang on their walls. I finished four letters total. The A used peach, purple, and orange blocks. The J used orange, green, and yellow to match my redhead’s vibe. I backed the letters with felt and used cardboard in some for extra stiffness.

Plan and sketch mirrored letters

Sketch letters on the back side of the cloth. The loops face the opposite side, so mirror anything directional, like J. Use a ruler for clean block shapes, or use a projector if you want perfect curves and angles. Mark color zones before you start if you plan a color-blocked letter – if you’d like to be very intentional with it. I just winged it.

Outline slow, fill fast for clean loops

Keep the barrel straight and move forward steadily. Do not tilt. Outline first on a low speed to stay on the line. Then fill on a higher speed in tight rows. Keep the rows close for a denser pile. Always keep a lot of the yarn pulled loose so it doesn’t resist the tufting and fail.

Glue, back, and trim for a clean finish

Use latex carpet adhesive and spread it with a scraper or a piece of cardboard. Let it dry fully before trimming. For wall decor, felt makes a neat back, and a layer of cardboard helps the piece stay flat. Trim strays with scissors. A rug shaver will clean the surface faster and crisper than scissors alone.

Results, timing, and cleanup

Each 10 to 11 inch tall letter took about 15 minutes to tuft once set up. Expect yarn fluff on the floor. That is normal. You will use more cloth than the letter size to lock in tension across the frame. That means that you might have some waste. I tufted a small project between the letters (which I’ll share with you) to avoid waste.

The final letters looked bright and bold. After glue and a quick trim, they were ready for hanging.

Conclusion

If you want an easy entry into tufting, this Clawlab review points to a smart pick for a beginner tufting gun and frame.

Pros include fast tension on the frame, portable build, one-hand lightweight gun, quiet motor, smooth results, tidy case. Cons include a fixed frame width (standard for frames but I’d love to see them make it adjustable), no yarn mount, and no shearing tool in the kit.

For first rugs, small wall pieces, and custom initials, it hits the sweet spot of simplicity and control. Add latex carpet adhesive, extra monks cloth, felt backing, and a rug shaver to your list. Ready to try it? Check the current price for the Clawlab Kit, or choose the Clawlab Frame or Clawlab Tufting Gun on their own.

The post Clawlab Review: Tufting Gun and Frame for Beginners (With Kids’ Initials Project) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I absolutely love setting a gorgeous table every Friday night. As a Jewish mother, we always have a nice formal (but relaxed) family dinner, often with guests. Lately, I’ve been sharing some of the DIY table decor I make to help craft a pretty tablescape.

I’ve shared so many DIY napkin rings (these resin napkin rings are a favorite – but these super easy leather ones are also a hit).

But what about the napkins themselves? Today, I’m sharing how to make Shibori napkins using super-easy materials!

Basics of making Shibori napkins

What is Shibori

Shibori is effectively tie dye, but the Japanese method. Usually, we crafters call it that when we use the deep blue ink inspired by the natural indigo inks used in the Japanese craft.

Effectively, the way we usually do it, it’s just tie dye in deep blues. If you look at true Shibori, what we do is a far cry from it.

But it still makes for some gorgeous patterns, and using the deep blue inks associated with Shibori keeps it classy on the table! Since we’re beginners, we are sticking to relatively simple Shibori techniques.

Sourcing your materials

I confess: I cheated. I actually made these because I saw a kit at Target on clearance! I wasn’t going to share the tutorial (you know I should occasionally craft it just for me), but then I realized that Target no longer sells this kit (it WAS on clearance), so maybe I should share the how-to!

The funny thing is, I had purchased tea towels at Dollar Tree years ago to turn into napkins – and I never really did it. I felt like they were too big, intended to sew them down, found the material hard to work with, and turned some of them into rags. Then, I realized that the napkins that came with the kit were the same exact thing – just mesh tea towels! Whelp. They worked fabulously.

I would, however, prefer a more elegant base for this. Make sure it’s tie-dye friendly and absorbent. I think that a linen or woven cotton would be perfect. If I did this again, I’d buy an elegant white napkin to do it on.

The rest of the materials for this are pretty basic. Get Shibori dye (or just use dark navy tie dye). The kit came with ribbons and rubber bands – I found the rubber bands easier to work with. Real Shibori would use multiple methods beyond tying to create the resist (including stitches, clamps, and more).

How to make Shibori napkins

You’ll need

• White fabric napkins made from an absorbent material
• Shibori dye – either actual indigo powder or Shibori-inspired dyes
• Squeeze bottle(s) – You really only need one, but it won’t be enough to dye all your napkins. You can refill it, but that can be annoying. I had all my squeeze bottles lined up to do all at once. You can also create different dye strengths, and you may want a few bottles for that.
• Rubber bands – or if you want to go more diverse, you can mix it with other techniques
• Tarps or disposable tablecloths/garbage bags to protect your surfaces
• Lots and lots of paper towels (or towels you don’t mind ruining)
• Gloves so you don’t stain your hands

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! I also show a slightly different technique in the video. Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step-by-step process

Note: most dyes come with their own instructions. Since their makeup can differ, always prioritize package instructions over my own!

1. Tie up your napkins! If it’s your first time doing this, I’d recommend starting simple. I used the basic “Kanoko” method, which is most like tie dye. Simply hold the napkin from the center point and let the four corners fall. Hold the whole thing together as one bundle. Tie it in increments.

I did try some with string, but preferred how the rubber bands looked.

2. Prepare your dyes in squeeze bottles! You can do different dye strengths based on the water-to-powder ratio. I had bought enough kits to make 12 napkins, but I kind of regret not doubling the dye (and just purchasing more powder) as I got more of a denim blue than a navy.

Protect your surface well (it’s dye – it’s permanent). Lay out (paper) towels to absorb extra and avoid runoff.

3. Start pouring it on your napkins! You’re supposed to really soak it and let the tying do the work of creating a resist. Try not to miss any spots.

4. When they’re all ready, dump them into a huge plastic bag and close it. Let it sit for a while (I did overnight).

5. Wash off the excess dye. Cut off your bands. Open it up and enjoy the result!

Follow your package instructions WELL for post-processing, and make sure to wash your Shibori napkins on their own for the first few times, as they are not necessarily colorfast right away!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make shibori napkins! Which type of napkins would you like me to share next? Comment below!

How to Make Shibori Napkins

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Active Time: 20 minutes

Additional Time: 1 day

Total Time: 1 day 30 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Estimated Cost: 20

Craft these gorgeous Shibori napkins using the popular Japanese tie-dye method!

Print

Materials

• White fabric napkins made from an absorbent material
• Shibori dye - either actual indigo powder or Shibori-inspired dyes
• Squeeze bottle(s) - You really only need one, but it won't be enough to dye all your napkins. You can refill it, but that can be annoying. I had all my squeeze bottles lined up to do all at once. You can also create different dye strengths, and you may want a few bottles for that.
• Rubber bands - or if you want to go more diverse, you can mix it with other techniques
• Tarps or disposable tablecloths/garbage bags to protect your surfaces
• Lots and lots of paper towels (or towels you don't mind ruining)

Tools

Instructions

1. Tie up your napkins! If it's your first time doing this, I'd recommend starting simple. I used the basic "Kanoko" method, which is most like tie dye. Simply hold the napkin from the center point and let the four corners fall. Hold the whole thing together as one bundle. Tie it in increments.

I did try some with string, but preferred how the rubber bands looked.

2. Prepare your dyes in squeeze bottles! You can do different dye strengths based on the water-to-powder ratio. I had bought enough kits to make 12 napkins, but I kind of regret not doubling the dye (and just purchasing more powder) as I got more of a denim blue than a navy.

Protect your surface well (it's dye - it's permanent). Lay out (paper) towels to absorb extra and avoid runoff.

3. Start pouring it on your napkins! You're supposed to really soak it and let the tying do the work of creating a resist. Try not to miss any spots.

4. When they're all ready, dump them into a huge plastic bag and close it. Let it sit for a while (I did overnight).

5. Wash off the excess dye. Cut off your bands. Open it up and enjoy the result!

Follow your package instructions WELL for post-processing, and make sure to wash your Shibori napkins on their own for the first few times, as they are not necessarily colorfast right away!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make shibori napkins! Which type of napkins would you like me to share next? Comment below!

Notes

Note: most dyes come with their own instructions. Since their makeup can differ, always prioritize package instructions over my own!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Shibori Napkins – Easy Tutorial for Beginners appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

My favorite trick for setting a pretty table: accessorize! One of my favorite ways to dress up my weekly Shabbat table, or any holiday tablescape, is using pretty fabric napkins with napkin rings. I’ve created so many different types (these resin napkin rings are one of my favorites, and these clay napkin rings are pretty cool too).

I decided that I needed to try to crochet napkin rings so that I can offer you a free pattern – and for a bit of a different vibe! While most napkin rings add a bit more glam or work as “jewelry” for the table, these crochet napkin rings are totally sweater chic!

How to set a cozy fall table with crochet napkin rings

Tablescaping Tips

My vision for these crochet napkin rings was to make a little sweater to go on each napkin. While I’ve shown it to you in two different colors, I’d recommend sticking with one.

Stick to neutral napkins or ones with a bold print. If using a printed napkin, go for a solid colored plate.

These pair beautifully with tables that are full of texture: think pampas instead of flowers, deep nature-derived colors, and a textured tablecloth instead of a patterned one.

Styling the napkin rings

The napkin rings are not stiff like some others. If you want another great fall option that has more structure, these DIY leather napkin rings that open flat might be a better option for you.

These need to be shaped on the napkin itself. Wiggle the napkin through (it has traction, so you’ll need to feed it on, like stockings). Then shape the ring around the napkin.

Depending on how smooth or visible your seam is, you may want to place the seam on the bottom.

Tips for making your own crochet napkin rings – perfect crochet for beginners!

One of the reasons that these crochet napkin rings are such a great crochet project for beginners is that they’re SO forgiving. Missed your count? Just make it the right size!

And since you need to make a set, it’s a fabulous practice craft for new stitches that you want to get the hang of before investing in a larger project. Just make napkin rings until you get the hang of the stitch!

Ready to learn? I’ve used a rib stitch in this tutorial, and it’s easier than you think, but first, some tips.

Tension and sizing

When it comes to crochet, tension and the weight of your yarn make a very big difference to the final result. On this one, the yellow was made using very loose tension, because I was leaving things open to show you clearly in the tutorial.

The burnt orange one was made using tighter stitches. That allows it to hold and shape the napkin better and is ideal.

Choosing your yarn

I chose a very basic “super saver” worsted yarn for this, but you can go with anything! If you’re a true beginner, stick to simple. If you’re used to crochet, you can go for something fuzzy like a chenille yarn to up the cozy factor. You won’t see the ribbing as well on that.

For a more elegant look, go for a finer and smoother yarn.

Rib stitch crochet

I used a very easy rib crochet stitch to add a bit more texture to these crochet napkin rings. Don’t run now!

The way you rib stitch crochet is by simply stitching into one loop instead of two! We did a single crochet since it’s a small project. You know how each row creates a row of chain at the top? And your next row goes into both loops of those chains? Instead, we’re just using the front row. It’s that easy.

Adapting the tutorial

I’ve shared a specific pattern for these crochet napkin rings, but you’ll find that you really don’t need to follow it! You may want yours narrower or wider, very small, or big enough to hold a very thick napkin.

The concept is so simple: just crochet a long rectangle, connect the ends, and you have a crochet napkin ring!

And since I didn’t add anything to it – it’s just a ring, try the following ways to dress it up:

• Sew on buttons
• Add beads to the center stitch of each row (do an odd number).
• Crochet a simple flower to add to the front – or maple leaves.
• Add stitching/yarn embroidery with initials or fall motifs

Crochet Napkin Rings Pattern

Supplies Needed

• Medium-weight yarn. I used size 4 worsted Super Saver yarn
• Crochet hook – I used a 5mm hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Stitches Used

You can do this with any stitch, and I did teach you how to do each stitch, but if you’re following my tutorial, I recommend you know the following stitches first:

• CH – chain
• SC – single crochet (we did a ribbed version of it, I’ll show you how)

Watch the YouTube video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos. I highly recommend you also watch the video for this one – I added some tips as I worked.

How to make crochet napkin rings – step by step

1. Create a slipknot and insert your hook.

2. Chain 7. This will determine the WIDTH of your crochet napkin rings, so feel free to adjust accordingly.

3. Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook.

4. Single crochet: yarn over, pull through the first loop so that you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull it through both loops so that you’re left with one loop on the hook.

5. Repeat this four more times (you have a total of SIX single crochets – the turning one, the one we did to show you, and now four more.)

6. Chain one turning chain.

7. Now we’re going to switch things up again. We’re still single crocheting, but we want to create a ribbed texture. So instead of inserting the hook through BOTH loops of the stitch, we’re only inserting it through the FRONT LOOP. Skip your turning stitch and start from there.

8. Single crochet five times across in the front loop only.

9. Keep repeating this process: chain 1, single crochet in the front loop only five times (skipping the first chain). Do 5-8 rows. This will depend on your tension, your preferred ring size – just keep adding rows until you have enough to form a ring the size you want it.

10. Leave about a foot of yarn and trim it from the spool. Pull the loop open, pulling the tail through until it’s hanging and no longer a loop.

11. You’ll now want to connect your ends. Attach a darning needle to your tail.

12. There are many ways you can choose to do this, but I decided to simply sew the ends together flat, to keep it as seamless as possible. Match up your first and last rows of stitches, and stitch one or two times in each of the corresponding stitches.

13. Weave in your ends and trim.

Your crochet napkin rings are complete! Now go ahead and crochet sunflowers to attach to them! Or try this free crochet daisy pattern for a lighter look.

DIY Crochet Napkin Rings

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $8

Learn how to crochet napkin rings for some cozy fall table decor!

Print

Materials

• Medium-weight yarn. I used size 4 worsted Super Saver yarn
• Crochet hook - I used a 5mm hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Create a slipknot and insert your hook.

2. Chain 7. This will determine the WIDTH of your crochet napkin rings, so feel free to adjust accordingly.

3. Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook.

4. Single crochet: yarn over, pull through the first loop so that you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull it through both loops so that you're left with one loop on the hook.

5. Repeat this four more times (you have a total of SIX single crochets - the turning one, the one we did to show you, and now four more.)

6. Chain one turning chain.

7. Now we're going to switch things up again. We're still single crocheting, but we want to create a ribbed texture. So instead of inserting the hook through BOTH loops of the stitch, we're only inserting it through the FRONT LOOP. Skip your turning stitch and start from there.

8. Single crochet five times across in the front loop only.

9. Keep repeating this process: chain 1, single crochet in the front loop only five times (skipping the first chain). Do 5-8 rows. This will depend on your tension, your preferred ring size - just keep adding rows until you have enough to form a ring the size you want it.

10. Leave about a foot of yarn and trim it from the spool. Pull the loop open, pulling the tail through until it's hanging and no longer a loop.

11. You'll now want to connect your ends. Attach a darning needle to your tail.

12. There are many ways you can choose to do this, but I decided to simply sew the ends together flat, to keep it as seamless as possible. Match up your first and last rows of stitches, and stitch one or two times in each of the corresponding stitches.

13. Weave in your ends and trim.

Notes

You can do this with any stitch, and I did teach you how to do each stitch, but if you're following my tutorial, I recommend you know the following stitches first:

• CH - chain
• SC - single crochet (we did a ribbed version of it, I'll show you how)

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Crochet Napkin Rings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

You may have seen the “gypsum” trend online and wondered what it is and how to craft it! I’ve seen it done primarily with rimmed oval trays, often used for trinkets. When I got this duo cleaner and lotion dispenser to keep in my kitchen, I knew that tray would fit it perfectly, so I decided to give making a plaster tray a go.

But first, let’s explore the general idea of crafting with “gypsum” and offer you all the tips you need to craft this successfully!

Tips for crafting with Gypsum

What is gypsum?

When I first saw people crafting with gypsum, I had to look into this “new” material and, well, turns out it’s basically the main ingredient in Plaster of Paris. In other words, Plaster of Paris, yes, that white powder we felt so cool casting as kids, is a modified version of gypsum, which is a naturally occurring mineral.

Add water to gypsum-turned-Plaster of Paris, and it hardens.

Pros and Cons of plaster vs. resin.

Plaster of Paris is incredibly easy to work with. I find it much easier than working with resin, but I confess, the results are not quite as durable.

You get a faux ceramic type of look but, it is, in fact plaster. So yes, it’s kind of like a drywall-like final result. It’s not close to as durable as resin.

Plaster DOES cure much quicker – while resin takes days, Plaster of Paris generally takes under an hour. This makes for much faster turnaround time but much less working time. It also requires much less stirring – one of the more tedious elements of resin crafts.

For my DIY purposes, it’s fabulous. It’s not necessarily the best way to make a high-quality final home decor piece, in my opinion. But it looks cool and is so easy, so let’s get crafting!

Coloring and finishing the plaster tray

You can easily color wet (uncured) plaster using acrylic paint. Simply mix a few squirts in before casting it. Keep in mind that plaster sets FAST, so you don’t want to add to the crafting time.

My best trick is to mix the color into the water before adding the plaster, so that you are basically mixing it with tinted water.

A common way to color a plaster tray is to get that false Terrazzo look. I didn’t want to start making color chips for that, so I decided to splatter paint on the final, demolded, cured tray. I kind of messed up at one point, just painted the whole thing over, and started again… So my final try is actually surface painted.

The big advantage of surface painting your plaster tray is that you get a much better finish. While the color doesn’t “integrate” as well as if you mix it into the wet plaster, you remove that chalky/dusty feel that plaster sometimes has.

If you’re selling your final product, you probably DO want to totally seal it, whether it’s with paint or a hard finishing acrylic or Mod Podge sealer.

How to use your plaster tray

These oval trays are the perfect size for making with plaster – and they are so useful! They’re typically trinket trays, great for dropping jewelry on a dresser or vanity table. But they’re also a FABULOUS size for glasses, making them great for bedside tables or entryways.

I made mine to fit a cleaner and soap dispenser (that I use for hand lotion) duo in my kitchen. Again, it’s a fabulous size for that. I love it when something like a mold is more versatile than just the intended project, and this oval tray mold is just that.

You can also use it for things like pencils on a desk, and as a horizontal drop zone for various office supplies. Since Plaster of Paris is considered to be fire resistant due to gypsum’s natural properties, it makes a great base for small candlesticks or tea light holders. I wouldn’t put heat directly on it, but it’s a great barrier/base.

You can also use these as larger-sized coasters for couples’ drinks, although avoid using them in contact with food as it is NOT food safe.

Caring for your plaster tray

Plaster is a highly porous material, and so if you’re going to even want to wipe it clean, you’ll want to seal it first.

If unsealed, keep it away from any moisture and dust it or wipe it with a dry cloth as needed.

If you do seal it with something waterproof, I recommend sticking to wiping it down with a damp cloth or sponge, just in case you have an unfinished spot – you don’t want to risk ruining the whole thing.

How to make a plaster tray

Materials needed

• Oval tray mold
• Plaster of Paris
• Measuring cup
• Mixing cup
• Water
• Paint stir sticks or large popsicle sticks for mixing
• Acrylic paint
• Paintbrush
• Optional: sealer such as acrylic spray sealer or Outdoor Mod Podge

Watch the full-length video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step-by-step tutorial with pictures

1. When mixing plaster of Paris, follow the directions on your package for things like ratio and work time. Start by measuring out your water and pouring it into your mixing cup.

2. Squirt in some acrylic paint and mix it together. How much you need will depend on the intensity of the paint, how dark you want it, etc. Start with a generous squirt, and follow your instincts to add more. Keep in mind that the white of the plaster will make it opaque and creamier looking.

Mix it until it’s fully incorporated.

3. Add your plaster. A ratio of 2:1 plaster to water is standard, so if you’re unsure, start with that, but of course, first, reference your package instructions and prioritize that.

4. Mix it together until smooth. You should have a batter-like consistency without lumps. It should be totally pourable, but hold some ripples.

5. Pour it into your mold, starting by filling a base layer in the deeper parts.. Run a stick through it to push it to the corners.

Fill your mold completely. To make sure it reaches all the edges, pull out the corners of the mold and tap it to let the plaster run to those areas.

6. Use a stick to smooth out the top as much as you can.

7. Allow it to cure completely according to package instructions (usually like half an hour or so).

8. If you prefer, you can paint over it using glossy acrylic paint. If you want the look I got, splatter it with paint.

Seal it for durability (optional). Your plaster tray is complete!

I hope you enjoyed crafting this DIY Plaster of Paris tray! Do you enjoy using gypsum as a crafting medium? What do you enjoy making with it? Comment below!

Yield: 1

DIY Gypsum Trinket Tray

Active Time: 30 minutes

Additional Time: 1 hour

Total Time: 1 hour 30 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: 20

Learn how to make a plaster tray perfect for Trinkets or sink-side caddies using gypsum - or Plaster of Paris!

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Materials

• Oval tray mold
• Plaster of Paris
• Measuring cup
• Mixing cup
• Water
• Paint stir sticks or large popsicle sticks for mixing
• Acrylic paint
• Paintbrush
• Optional: sealer such as acrylic spray sealer or Outdoor Mod Podge

Instructions

1. When mixing plaster of Paris, follow the directions on your package for things like ratio and work time. Start by measuring out your water and pour it into your mixing cup.

2. Squirt in some acrylic paint and mix it together. How much you need will depend on the intensity of the paint, how dark you want it, etc. Start with a generous squirt, and follow your instincts to add more. Keep in mind that the white of the plaster will make it opaque and creamier looking.

Mix it until it's fully incorporated.

3. Add your plaster. A ratio of 2:1 plaster to water is standard, so if you're unsure, start with that, but of course, first, reference your package instructions and prioritize that.

4. Mix it together until smooth. You should have a batter-like consistency without lumps. It should be totally pourable, but hold some ripples.

5. Pour it into your mold, starting by filling a base layer in the deeper parts.. Run a stick through it to push it to the corners.

Fill your mold completely. To make sure it reaches all the edges, pull out the corners of the mold and tap it to let the plaster run to those areas.

6. Use a stick to smooth out the top as much as you can.

7. Allow it to cure completely according to package instructions (usually like half an hour or so).

8. If you prefer, you can paint over it using glossy acrylic paint. If you want the look I got, splatter it with paint.

Seal it for durability (optional). Your plaster tray is complete!

Notes

What is gypsum?

When I first saw people crafting with gypsum, I had to look into this "new" material and, well, turns out it's basically the main ingredient in Plaster of Paris. In other words, Plaster of Paris, yes, that white powder we felt so cool casting as kids, is a modified version of gypsum, which is a naturally occurring mineral.

Add water to gypsum-turned-Plaster of Paris, and it hardens.

Pros and Cons of Plaster vs. Resin:

Plaster of Paris is incredibly easy to work with. I find it much easier than working with resin, but I confess, the results are not quite as durable.
You get a faux ceramic type of look but, it is, in fact plaster. So yes, it's kind of like a drywall-like final result. It's not close to as durable as resin.

Plaster DOES cure much quicker - while resin takes days, Plaster of Paris generally takes under an hour. This makes for much faster turnaround time but much less working time. It also requires much less stirring - one of the more tedious elements of resin crafts.

For my DIY purposes, it's fabulous. It's not necessarily the best way to make a high-quality final home decor piece, in my opinion. But it looks cool and is so easy, so let's get crafting!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Plaster Tray – DIY Trinket Tray Using Gypsum appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When I needed a new trivet, I pulled out the air dry clay and made one really in minutes (with plenty of dry/waiting time of course). But instead of focusing this tutorial exclusively on the very simple process of making the trivets, I decided to focus it on answering a simple question:

Can you use watercolor on air dry clay?

The answer, as you can imagine from the start of this post, is yes – so let’s explore!

Can you use watercolor on air dry clay? Tips & tricks

Air dry clay is a very soft, porous material and absorbs watercolors nicely. They will eventually dry and give a very cool look to the clay. In fact, as an artist/crafter, I really do enjoy the process of using watercolor on air dry clay – as it can be quite meditative.

However, there are a few hiccups you may face.

When working with watercolors on air dry clay, you’ll see that the more it sits on the surface, the more it absorbs, but once it absorbs, it really becomes part of the clay.

For this reason, my favorite outcomes for watercolor on air dry clay is to fill a deliberate texture. That means, use a piece that has some kind of imprint, and the watercolor it. The paints then pool in the imprint, really highlighting it.

While I’ve used watercolors on air dry clay in other projects, I do find that this is the best way to do it. On others, you may get a bit of a messy look until you work loads more layers in. You can get nice effects still, but it’s not as easy.

If you are working with clay that does NOT have an imprint or a texture you want to highlight, you can use acrylic paints for a solid, bold finish. Or, work with VERY smooth clay.

The watercolor paints will highlight any crease or imperfection. So if you have something more pinch-pot style, instead of getting a great, organic look, you’ll be outlining all the blemishes.

But if you get it right, watercolor on air dry clay gives you a gorgeous soft look, allowing you to add color while keeping things classy.

Another thing I need to point out: you’ll need to add re-drying time to your clay crafts. It’ll absorb and really wet the project, meaning, you’ll want to give it another few days to really absorb before sealing your project.

And a final note: you WILL want to seal it, as anywhere where the watercolor paints sit a little thicker, it’ll rub off easily.

Tips for crafting an air dry clay trivet

Crafting an air dry clay trivet is super easy.

The process is simple: roll out your clay, and cut a shape large enough to suit the hot item you need to place on top. In my case, it’s the perfect size for a small Pyrex dish.

I cut mine in a freeform shape, but you can trace any shape (cut from a paper template) – a flower, a pomegranate, a butterfly – as long as the end result is a a functional size to use as a trivet.

Clay brand matters

When it comes to air dry clay, brand does matter. I do not recommend getting a no-name brand.

Crayola’s air dry clay is a decent brand, and especially kid friendly. DAS is the one I used here since I know that brand to be flame resistant and I originally got the clay to make air dry clay Menorahs. Sculpey is a brand that I find to be great too and is particularly lightweight I believe.

Adding texture

Adding texture is the perfect way to watercolor on air dry clay, as I mentioned above. Not only is clay super fun to texture, but for watercoloring, it allows the paint to pool in those areas, camouflaging imperfections and highlighting the texture.

For this, I used an open-weave mesh table runner. Some more ideas for adding texture:

• Coarse sandpaper is a classic
• Burlap for a more closed-weave design
• Crumpled and uncrumpled foil
• Leaves – either one large one in the center or a few smaller ones arranged into a pattern
• A branch with a pretty formation

Look around your house for anything that doesn’t have TOO much depth but has a pretty pattern and texture.

Finishing it off

While you can leave your air dry clay trivet a rolled-out blob, there are definitely ways to polish it off and finish the look!

First of all, when using watercolor on air dry clay, you DO want to seal it. Especially in areas where it pools and doesn’t absorb as much into the clay it can scratch off. It can also leave a bit of a dusty texture. I used Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge, but any hard-finishing formula can work here, since you’ll really only wipe it clean.

Other ideas include resin or an acrylic spray sealer.

You can also gild the edges using a gold paint marker if you want to highlight them or add a little touch of glam.

And finally, to really make it a finished product, you can tack on some felt furniture sliders to the base, or back it in cork sheet.

Care instructions

To care for your trivet, you’ll primarily want to wipe it clean with a damp cloth. It doesn’t usually get more than the occasional drip.

If you have a deep texture and didn’t allow your sealer to smooth it out, you may need a little help from a dish brush to get things out.

Unless you used a few thorough coats of dishwasher safe mod podge or resin, I don’t recommend soaking it or scrubbing too hard.

How to make a trivet using watercolor on air dry clay

You’ll need

• Air dry clay – I used DAS brand
• Height guides or two books of the width you want your trivets to be
• A rolling pin dedicated to clay
• A surface to work on – I find this silicone mat from Surebonder to be a game-changer
• A craft or utility knife dedicated to clay
• Mesh runner or other fabric to use as an imprint
• A little water in a dish or jar
• A scrap of coarse sandpaper (besides for your imprint if you’re using it for that)
• Watercolor paints – I used Prang for this and find it to be a rich, high quality and affordable option for crafts like this one
• A watercolor brush (they’re usually very absorbent – I used a water brush)
• Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge
• A flat paintbrush
• Felt furniture sliders

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Instructions

1. Place clay thickness guides at the height you want your trivet thickness to be (I used two). Roll out your clay.

2. Roll your texture into it.

3.Use a craft knife to cut out the shape.

4. Use the craft knife as you go along to help you remove excess clay.

5. Dip your fingers into a little water to help you smooth out the edges – but don’t overdo it or you’ll ruin your design.

6. Allow it to dry thoroughly on one side, and then flip it over so that it can finish drying. Don’t flip it too early or it’ll crack.

Use coarse sandpaper to gently smooth it out. Again, just a little touching up is needed.

7. Use watercolor paints to paint your air dry clay trivet.

Don’t overwork it, and let it pool inside the texture.

8. Allow it to redry – not just the paints, but also the trivet itself. Paint on a layer or two of dishwasher safe Mod Podge.

Once the sealer is complete, add felt sliders to the bottom and your clay trivet is complete! Have you ever tried watercolor on air dry clay? How did you find the results to be? Comment below!

Clay Trivets with Watercolor

Learn the trick to using watercolor on air dry clay with this beautiful DIY trivets craft!

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Materials

• Air dry clay - I used DAS brand
• Height guides or two books of the width you want your trivets to be
• A rolling pin dedicated to clay
• A surface to work on - I find this silicone mat from Surebonder to be a game-changer
• A craft or utility knife dedicated to clay
• Mesh runner or other fabric to use as an imprint
• A little water in a dish or jar
• A scrap of coarse sandpaper
• Watercolor paints - I used Prang for this and find it to be a rich, high quality and affordable option for crafts like this one
• A watercolor brush (they're usually very absorbent - I used a water brush)
• Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge
• A flat paintbrush
• Felt furniture sliders

Instructions

1. Place clay thickness guides at the height you want your trivet thickness to be (I used two). Roll out your clay.

2. Roll your texture into it.

3.Use a craft knife to cut out the shape.

4. Use the craft knife as you go along to help you remove excess clay.

5. Dip your fingers into a little water to help you smooth out the edges - but don't overdo it or you'll ruin your design.

6. Allow it to dry thoroughly on one side, and then flip it over so that it can finish drying. Don't flip it too early or it'll crack.
Use coarse sandpaper to gently smooth it out. Again, just a little touching up is needed.

7. Use watercolor paints to paint your air dry clay trivet.

Don't overwork it, and let it pool inside the texture.

8. Allow it to redry - not just the paints, but also the trivet itself. Paint on a layer or two of dishwasher safe Mod Podge.

Once the sealer is complete, add felt sliders to the bottom and your clay trivet is complete! Have you ever tried watercolor on air dry clay? How did you find the results to be? Comment below!

Notes

Adding texture is the perfect way to watercolor on air dry clay.. Not only is clay super fun to texture, but for watercoloring, it allows the paint to pool in those areas, camouflaging imperfections and highlighting the texture.

For this, I used an open-weave mesh table runner. Some more ideas for adding texture:

- Coarse sandpaper is a classic
- Burlap for a more closed-weave design
- Crumpled and uncrumpled foil
- Leaves - either one large one in the center or a few smaller ones arranged into a pattern
- A branch with a pretty formation

When using watercolor on air dry clay, you DO want to seal it. Especially in areas where it pools and doesn't absorb as much into the clay it can scratch off. It can also leave a bit of a dusty texture. I used Dishwasher Safe Mod Podge, but any hard-finishing formula can work here, since you'll really only wipe it clean.

To care for your trivet, you'll primarily want to wipe it clean with a damp cloth. It doesn't usually get more than the occasional drip.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Watercolor on Air Dry Clay – DIY Trivets appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

You may have noticed… I’m obsessed with napkin rings. They are like jewelry for the table and there is just so much you can do with it from a crafting perspective.

I wanted a set of rustic modern wood napkin rings, with clean lines but an organic feel.

So obviously, I had to make them!

The challenge: Can I turn wood slice coasters into DIY wooden napkin rings?

Of course, the answer is a resounding… yes!

Tips for making DIY wooden napkin rings

My main strategy for making these was going to be to simply carve at them using a rotary tool.

I pulled out my MakerX rotary and got to carving. But it wasn’t that simple. I mean, it was AND it wasn’t…

I always try to be honest with you with the scope of a project. This one is a pretty big one. It’s not physically taxing, but it’s not just a quick make – you need some patience and you need to be able to handle a LOT of dust.

Safety first

Yes, there is a LOT of dust. I recommend having a vacuum handy to keep it under control as you go along.

You absolutely need a good respirator mask for this – or you’ll be inhaling the dust. And you’ll want goggles too – even if you wear glasses.

If this is too much of an ask for you, go ahead and try these copper wire DIY napkin rings instead – they’re much easier.

Choosing your coasters

First of all, most wood slice coasters, including the ones that I got, are cheap little things.

And yes, you should keep this project cheap.

I aimed for 3 inch coasters to try and start off closer to my final size. The problem is you need AT LEAST the 3 inches – if the size varies too much it’ll be a problem – not all will work. The standard coaster is 4 inches, and you’ll find much more in that size. You’ll probably even get better quality for a better price, due to there just being more options – and therefore an ounce of competition.

In fact, I went ahead after making this project and made more of them so I can serve up to 12, and used thicker, larger coasters. It’s much harder (more sanding, etc) but the grain was much prettier and I got the size I wanted more consistently.

The original ones I got had a foamy fake-feeling bark on it, which is fine – I was taking it off anyway, and it came off quite easily. But on some the bark was too thick, and the nicest napkin rings were the ones that had a bit more rim on them. So some just came out too thin.

Another thing is that we’re relying on the “spread” of the coaster to give the final napkin ring some style, and not the thickness. If you do find thicker wood slices (1 inch thick) then go ahead, get them. But it’ll be much harder to make the hole – unless you have more advanced power tools (more on that later).

So get 4 inch coasters, and look for quality if you can find it. And be prepared to sand. And if you can use power tools, do it.

The biggest challenge: making the hole

The absolute biggest challenge was starting the hole on these.

I knew this would be a challenge, but I was up for it.

I generally played with the drill bit on my rotary tool and my craft knife to nudge out the middle as messy as I can and it worked great – it just took some time,.

Eventually my husband suggested that I laser cut it out. Because, you know, I own a laser cutter. Haha. I forgot to mention that. Don’t run away!

I tested the process without a laser cutter on enough to know that it’ll work – it just takes a bit more time and patience. And after a few I was ready for a bit of a shortcut – mainly because I needed to get this post ready. But it’s totally doable with just the rotary.

The ideal way to make the hole would actually be using a 3/4-1 inch hole saw drill bit – it’s a bit of a small, delicate piece to work on, but that’s a cheap attachment to get!

So if you’re willing to go beyond the rotary, I totally recommend getting that. And if you do own a laser cutter, it’ll just zap that hole out.

You want everything on these DIY wooden napkin rings to feel organic and hand-carved anyway, so you really just need the starting hole to make it work.

And one final point: if you ARE using larger (3.5-4 inch) coasters, you might also want to expedite the edge removal a bit using either a laser if you have one, wood carving tools, or more efficient tools than just sanding as it’ll create a lot of dust.

Finishing it off

After you finished hand-carving your DIY wooden napkin rings, you’re going to want to finish it off somehow. My goal here was to get it as organic looking as possible – really, just a classy, beautiful, clean napkin ring.

But leaving it unfinished wasn’t an option – especially when placing it on the table with food.

I played with the following options:

• Gilding wax.This did retain the natural texture of the wood and added a bit of glam. I’d totally make a set like this if I find my courage to craft another!! But it wasn’t quite what I was looking for.
• White paint wash. I wanted a modern, light wood look and this wasn’t quite where I wanted it. Again, it’s an option for another set, and doable, but meh.
• Butcher block oil. I really really wanted to avoid spending more on this craft, but this was definitely the perfect choice and what I used in the final, staged images in this post.

In an nutshell: these DIY wooden napkin rings don’t require special skills to make. They don’t require advanced DIY tools but those would help. They do require decent crafting tools including a rotary and protective equipment. And they do require some patience and dedication to the cause (which I frankly had plenty of).

How to make DIY Wooden napkin rings from wood slice coasters

Watch the video tutorial

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Supplies needed

• Wood slices – Smaller ones will be much easier to work with, especially without advanced tools, but you’ll be limited in edge space. Quality tends to be poorer. Larger ones had a nicer grain in my experience, are a bit thicker, and will be harder to remove the outer edge without better tools.
• Rotary tool – I used the Worx MakerX. You’ll want angle grinder (the rotary bits, not the tool), sanding drum, and drill attachments. I got these drill bits to complement what the rotary came with. A cutting bit might help, especially if using a larger coaster.
• Craft/utility knife
• Optional: starting your project will be easier with a drill hole saw (not featured in this tutorial)
• Respirator mask and goggles
• Recommending: cut-resistant glove
• Butcher block oil and rag

Process

1. Start by making the hole in the center. You want it to be large enough to comfortably slide a napkin through, so keep one handy for reference. It might get dusty so use a junky one.

If you have a hole saw drill bit, use that, your life will be much easier. If you’re working with the rotary-only, start by drilling holes around the perimeter of your circle.

2. Use a craft knife to help you break through them. In hindsight, I wished I HAD tried a cutting bit for the rotary so if you have one, definitely try that!

3. Poke out the hole. This is just a starting hole – you’ll be carving it from here!

4. Next step is to remove the worst of the bark. You can use the craft knife for the flakey bits, but I found that the angle grinder attachment got it off in seconds.

5. It’s time to start carving! I found that the coarse sanding drum was just perfect for this. It got the job done meticulously, taking off plenty of wood when needed, especially when on a higher setting, and giving me more detailed work when I slowed it down.

Start by cleaning up your hole. Make it the size you want at this stage.

6. Next, shape the perimeter. Go for that “live-edge” look that has a slightly organic, uneven shape.

7. And as a final step, you’ll want to round off all your edges as well.

And that includes the inside edges. For this step, I recommend putting your rotary on a lower setting so you don’t take off too much wood.

Refine until you are happy with the shape, the smoothness, etc.

You can smooth things out further with a finer grit sandpaper too.

8. When you’re happy, clean it off and finish it off with butcher block oil according to package directions.

Your DIY wooden napkin rings are finished and fabulous! What kind of napkin ring tutorial do you want to see next? Comment below!

DIY Wooden Napkin Rings

Craft your own gorgeous DIY wooden napkin rings - made from wood slice coasters!

Print

Materials

• Wood slice coasters - the kind with a bark edge
• Craft/utility knife
• Respirator mask and goggles
• Recommending: cut-resistant glove
• Butcher block oil and rag

Tools

• Rotary tool - I used the Worx MakerX. You'll want angle grinder (the rotary bits, not the tool), sanding drum, and drill attachments. I got these drill bits to complement what the rotary came with.
• Optional: starting your project will be easier with a drill hole saw (not featured in this tutorial)

Instructions

1. Start by makin the hole in the center. You want it to be large enough to comfortably slide a napkin through, so keep one handy for reference. It might get dusty so use a junky one.

If you have a hole saw drill bit, use that, your life will be much easier. If you're working with the rotary-only, start by drilling holes around the perimeter of your circle.

2. Use a craft knife to help you break through them.

3. Poke out the hole. This is just a starting hole - you'll be carving it from here!

4. Next step is to remove the worst of the bark. You can use the craft knife for the flakey bits, but I found that the angle grinder attachment got it off in seconds.

5. It's time to start carving! I found that the coarse sanding drum was just perfect for this. It got the job done meticulously, taking off plenty of wood when needed, especially when on a higher setting, and giving me more detailed work when I slowed it down.
Start by cleaning up your hole. Make it the size you want at this stage.

6. Next, shape the perimeter. Go for that "live-edge" look that has a slightly organic, uneven shape.

7. And as a final step, you'll want to round off all your edges as well.

And that includes the inside edges. For this step, I recommend putting your rotary on a lower setting so you don't take off too much wood.

Refine until you are happy with the shape, the smoothness, etc.

You can smooth things out further with a finer grit sandpaper too.

8. When you're happy, clean it off and finish it off with butcher block oil according to package directions.

Your DIY wooden napkin rings are finished and fabulous! What kind of napkin ring tutorial do you want to see next? Comment below!

Notes

Ideas for Finishing off your Wooden Napkin Rings:

Gilding wax: This did retain the natural texture of the wood and added a bit of glam. I'd totally make a set like this if I find my courage to craft another!! But it wasn't quite what I was looking for.

White paint wash: I wanted a modern, light wood look and this wasn't quite where I wanted it. Again, it's an option for another set, and doable, but meh.

Butcher block oil: I really really wanted to avoid spending more on this craft, but this was definitely the perfect choice and what I used in the final, staged images in this post.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post DIY Wooden Napkin Rings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Every weekend, my family celebrates Shabbat, and I love setting a beautiful table. Since we do this weekly, I like to switch things up and I’m a big fan of napkin rings.

I have a large collection of napkin rings that I myself have crafted and I get so much enjoyment seeing something DIY on my own Shabbat table.

I have already shared a few of those I created. I shared these leather napkin rings – that I’ve since created another rustic brown set of. When I wanted something bright and white, I crafted a set of clay napkin rings – but also shared ideas for finishing them.

As part of my resin 101 series, I wanted to create a set of napkin rings. While this is not a baseline project for most people, there were a few beginner skills that needed addressing here that shows some creativity in the process of creating resin crafts.

In this post, I’m going to share some basic skills including:

• Using a resin mold that has a center portion as well – it presents its own challenge
• Different finishes (not just high gloss) on resin
• Using metal leafing properly in resin
• Using acrylic paints for resin coloring
• Finishing off rough ends neatly (I really just touch on this because I cared a bit less about this as I’m making it for me, and not to sell)
• What to do when you can’t find a mold for your project

So as you can see, making a resin napkin rings tutorial was an opportunity for beginner resin crafting lessons.

But first: finding a mold.

Finding a Mold for Resin Napkin Rings

I stared off my idea of making resin napkin rings the way most resin processes start: looking for a mold. I couldn’t find one.

I thought, maybe I’ll make my own mold for epoxy resin crafting. Problem: mold-maker silicone is pricey. Problem 2: I need something to cast and none of my existing napkin rings were a good candidate.

Then I bumped into some shot glass molds… in the baking/candy making department! Note: the one that I used is discontinued, but this one from Wilton is most similar.

I figured that I can partially fill them and make resin napkin rings! But first we have a pressing question: can baking molds be used for resin?

Using a baking mold for resin

There is really no reason not to use a silicone baking mold for resin. The resin pops out nicely – and even with baking in mind, it’s designed for various fillings. Some people fill it with cake batter, some use it with chocolate, and some with candy.

Important to note: most baking molds have a satin or matte finish. Most resin molds have a glossier finish. That means that you probably won’t get that gorgeous shiny finish that you’re used to with resin.

For these DIY resin napkin rings it didn’t really matter. It’s just something to be aware of when using baking molds for resin. You can embrace the matte texture (I LOVE it) or you can polish it after (not so practical for more complex projects)

Another catch: you can’t use it for baking after. While the resin that I used is food safe, the fillings weren’t. I didn’t care about this because I purchased this mold special for this project. I may use it to make resin shot glasses in the future, but not chocolate ones.

And finally, I did find out that baking molds don’t last as long. I haven’t tested this and can’t really speak from experience. I do wonder if it’s something in the composition of the mold, or the constant long-term exposure to high temperatures that degrades the silicone. This is an important distinction, as you won’t have that with resin. We’ll see.

More ideas for resin napkin rings molds

The shot glass molds were slightly small for resin napkin rings – something I found out after. They work wonderfully with paper napkins, or these gorgeous thin, guazy napkins that are my favorite anyway (and they look fabulous with).

So it was a perfect solution for me. But what if you want one for thicker napkins?

The idea here is to think outside the mold (haha). So if you’re looking to make resin napkin rings and need something other than shot glass molds, here are some more ideas.

• Try different sized jewelry molds and see if any work. I’d imagine that a bangle mold would be too big but you can try…
• Modify an existing round or square mold (if it’s otherwise the correct dimensions) to have the hole portion using mold putty.
• Make a beaded napkin ring using resin bead molds to make beads.
• Or just make your own by casting a portion of a shot glass in 2-part silicone!

Tips for crafting DIY resin napkin rings

Here are some of the tips that I used that will be helpful for resin beginners – if you are just that, read one. If not, you might want to skip to the step-by-step process.

Coloring resin with acrylic paint

Yes, I used acrylic paint to color this resin! You can totally do that! The possibilities are endless!

I find that it’s a great solution for when you want a totally opaque color. It’s affordable, accessible, and versatile – not just for your resin crafts.

Here, I used a gorgeous mint color and just love the results. As in, I’m totally obsessed in an unhealthy way. It’s hard for me to find the same color to recommend – so find a shade that you like (the one I had came in a kit).

The caveat (there always is one)? It’s not food safe. Most resin colorants aren’t (you can use food color if you want it food safe). However, since napkin rings aren’t used in contact with food (and the napkins they touch aren’t either) I didn’t feel that it was important in this case.

It’s just something to know if you are using acrylic paint to color resin for food-contact items. You need to make sure that your items are food safe. In the worst case, you can simply coat it with a layer or two of food safe resin (I used Alumilite clear cast epoxy). It’ll make it glossy.

Embellishing it

When it comes to deep, closed molds like I used for these DIY resin napkin rings, it’s hard to see what you’re doing.

I chose to add bits of copper leaf to the outside so that I have more control of the results. To do this, you simply flip the mold inside out and add bits of copper leaf directly to the mold in small amounts.

It looks incredible. It has that random arbitrary look that gives it a natural, interesting vibe.

On that note: adding metal leaf flakes in resin will not have the result you want here – the paint is too opaque, and in general they tend to “disappear” into the resin.

Your other choices are to use mix-ins in the resin itself rather than layering the design in the mold, sticking to a simple colored resin, or just praying it comes out nice!

Another thing to keep in mind: if you’re using a totally opaque mold (like I did) it’s hard to gauge the height of your resin. So if making a layered design for resin napkin rings, you may have some variation. To me, that’s just artsy. You might not like it. Be warned.

Some other ideas that can look fabulous:

• Mix undrilled stone chips into a bottom layer of clear resin. (Add the resin first and then mix in an equal amount of stones so you don’t have air bubbles). Add a white layer of resin once that one has hardened.
• Do a marbled design by marbling two colors loosely in your resin mixing cup.
• Mix pebbles or shell fragments into clear resin.
• Make it a solid color, and gild the edges using a gilding marker after.

Finishing the edges

When you partially fill a mold, you tend to get a concave end with sharp edges. You can fix this one of the following ways:

1. Sanding it down and then polishing it. I don’t like doing this – it’s just too much work. I just sanded off the worst of it.
2. Doming it. The right way to do this is to mix up fresh resin to match, tape off the edges so you don’t have spillover, and drop it in gently with a pipette. I did it the lazy way: I used clear UV resin straight from the bottle. It did the job.
3. Embracing it – I could have done this and probably will when I make another batch (service for eight is not always enough for us when we have guests!)
4. Deburring – You can also simply using a deburring tool to get rid of the worst of the sharp edges, but let it curve inward.

How to make resin napkin rings

There are many ways to do this, which is why I wrote the whole spiel with details and ideas above. The tutorial is specifically written in the very specific way that I crafted it.

Watch the YouTube Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Materials Needed

• 2 part epoxy resin (I used Alumilite Clear Cast Epoxy)
• Shot glass mold
• Mint colored acrylic paint
• Copper leaf sheets
• Silicone mixing cup
• Resin measuring cups
• Silicone stirrer
• Heat gun
• Respirator mask
• Nitrile gloves
• A scrap of coarse sandpaper
• To finish it off: UV resin, masking tape, UV resin curing lamp

Process

1. Flip the molds inside out.

2. Carefully put copper leaf on portions of the mold. You only need to put it on the outside – so on the wider portion. Less is more and let it be abstract.

3. Flip them back the right way, making sure they’re fully positioned, without any ripples or crinkles.

4. Mix up your resin according to package directions.

5. Pour in your acrylic paint and mix until thoroughly incorporated.

6. You’ll need to visualize how high you want your resin napkin rings to be at this point. Fill your mold that high – as long as the top of that center bit is not covered in resin, you’ll have a ring and not a cup!

7. Slide your stirring tool around the edges of each one to make sure there are no air bubbles. Squish the sides, making sure they go down into all be cracks. Make sure the center bit is actually centered (if it’s not perfect, it’ll just have that artsy handcrafted look, but you don’t want it way off).

8. Zap your resin napkin rings with a heat gun to pop air bubbles, moving it around so that you don’t flash cure your resin.

9. Allow the resin napkin rings to cure completely (according to package directions and pop them out by inverting the molds.

You’ll see that the side that was in the mold is nice and rounded.

And the other side is sharp and inverted, with some possible copper leaf spilling over.

10. Gently sand off the extra bits of copper foil.

11. Tape around the edges (recommended – no I did not do this, still recommend it, I was VERY careful and had some drip). Gently and carefully, tip with a small amount of UV resin. You may need to use a toothpick to move it where you want it.

12. Cure your UV resin.

Aren’t your resin napkin rings gorgeous? I hope you enjoyed crafting them – and comment below with any tips, ideas, or questions!

Yield: 8

DIY Resin Napkin Rings

Active Time: 30 minutes

Additional Time: 2 days

Total Time: 2 days 30 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $30

Craft these gorgeous napkin rings from resin using a shot glass mold! Shot glass molds are easier to come by than napkin ring molds, and while designed for use with chocolate, they work fabulously with resin too.

Print

Materials

• 2 part epoxy resin (I used Alumilite Clear Cast Epoxy)
• Shot glass mold
• Mint colored acrylic paint
• Copper leaf sheets
• Silicone mixing cup
• Resin measuring cups
• Silicone stirrer
• Heat gun
• Respirator mask
• Nitrile gloves
• A scrap of coarse sandpaper
• To finish it off: UV resin, masking tape, UV resin curing lamp

Instructions

1. Flip the molds inside out.

2. Carefully put copper leaf on portions of the mold. You only need to put it on the outside - so on the wider portion. Less is more and let it be abstract.

3. Flip them back the right way, making sure they're fully positioned, without any ripples or crinkles.

4. Mix up your resin according to package directions.

5. Pour in your acrylic paint and mix until thoroughly incorporated.

6. You'll need to visualize how high you want your resin napkin rings to be at this point. Fill your mold that high - as long as the top of that center bit is not covered in resin, you'll have a ring and not a cup!

7. Slide your stirring tool around the edges of each one to make sure there are no air bubbles. Squish the sides, making sure they go down into all be cracks. Make sure the center bit is actually centered (if it's not perfect, it'll just have that artsy handcrafted look, but you don't want it way off).

8. Zap your resin napkin rings with a heat gun to pop air bubbles, moving it around so that you don't flash cure your resin.

9. Allow the resin napkin rings to cure completely (according to package directions and pop them out by inverting the molds.

10. Gently sand off the extra bits of copper foil.

11. Tape around the edges (recommended - no I did not do this, still recommend it, I was VERY careful and had some drip). Gently and carefully, tip with a small amount of UV resin. You may need to use a toothpick to move it where you want it.

12. Cure your UV resin.

Notes

Some other ideas that can look fabulous:
- Mix undrilled stone chips into a bottom layer of clear resin. (Add the resin first and then mix in an equal amount of stones so you don't have air bubbles). Add a white layer of resin once that one has hardened.
- Do a marbled design by marbling two colors loosely in your resin mixing cup.
- Mix pebbles or shell fragments into clear resin.
- Make it a solid color, and gild the edges using a gilding marker after.

When you partially fill a mold, you tend to get a concave end with sharp edges. You can fix this one of the following ways:
- Sanding it down and then polishing it. I don't like doing this - it's just too much work.
- Doming it. The right way to do this is to mix up fresh resin to match, tape off the edges so you don't have spillover, and drop it in gently with a pipette. I did it the lazy way: I used clear UV resin straight from the bottle. It did the job.
- Embracing it - I could have done this and probably will when I make another batch (service for eight is not always enough for us when we have guests!)
- Deburring - You can also simply using a deburring tool to get rid of the worst of the sharp edges, but let it curve inward.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post GORGEOUS Resin Napkin Rings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Today, I’m excited to be teaching you a really fun resin craft that is fabulous for those of you who have already made a craft or two with resin: How to make a resin tray – with or without handles.

In this post, I’ll be addressing important things to remember, and tips for getting the results you want. I’ll be sharing how I like to attach my handles (I know that’s a biggie for many of you here). And I’ll share all about getting creative with your fill-ins – because with trays you have that much more surface area.

The resin tray is the DIY epoxy resin coaster’s second cousin but so much more fun, if you ask me! Not only do you have so much surface area to explore and fill in, but you’re only making one, not a set, making it much less… boring?

Tips for making a DIY resin tray

There are two main types of resin trays that I’ll be crafting with you but first… let’s offer some general tips that are critical to the success of learning how to make a resin tray.

Critical tips for making resin trays

Level your surface

Yes, I made this mistake. Since the tray is a larger item, variations in surface – that is, a slight tilt – will make a MUCH bigger difference.

You WILL want to level your surface first. While this might not have been an issue with smaller crafts like DIY resin earrings or pendants, you might have a very shaky tray that’s spilling out of the mold on one end and only half full on the other if you neglect this step.

To do this, work on a wood board of sorts instead of directly on your surface. This should be a scrap board that you don’t mind ruining, as if resin gets on and cures, you’ll need to sand it off to remove it.

Place a bubble level on the surface. Use notebooks or old magazines (again, those you don’t mind ruining) to prop your surface on either side as needed to make it level.

Mix your resin slowly and take your time with air bubbles.

Especially when it comes to trays with a bit more of a rim, you really need to take your time with it to avoid air bubbles. While smaller crafts can be zapped with a heat gun (and you’ll do the same with this one) you’ll find that there is so much surface area to go over, you’ll want to be careful from the get go.

First of all, mix slowly. Second, pour slowly. The more you do, the more you’ll need to correct. Third, take time to go over it slowly with a heat gun. And fourth, if there’s a rim, first fill the rim, remove heat bubbles from there, then fill the rest and zap bubbles again.

Protect your project

More surface space means more space for lint and other debris to get in. Protect your project while curing – just sticking an empty and totally clean storage container over it while curing can work.

Two types of DIY resin trays

Resin trays can come in all sorts of forms and shapes, however for the sake of this post I’m going to make focus on two main types:

• A rimmed tray – This is typically a small oval, and great as a trinket dish or small tray to corral cosmetics.
• With handles – This is normally a larger rectangular tray, and is very popular with irregular edges for a “geode” look.

In this tutorial, we’ll focus less on the exact design you choose and more on getting this design right.

How to make a resin tray with a rim

When you have a rim, even if it’s a low one, think of it as another layer to your project. If you’d like to do it as a separate color, you can, allowing it to cure or partially cure before adding your main base layer.

You also need to make sure your resin reaches all the corners of this rim – the deeper the corners in a mold, the more likely you are to trap air bubbles, and your rimmed resin tray mold has corners all around…

And finally, as I mentioned, you’ll need to make sure to pop air bubbles in the rim before proceeding to pour the rest of your project, just to make sure they don’t get too deep and embedded.

How to make a resin tray with handles

There are three ways to add handles to a resin tray:

1. Fixing them in place on the mold and pouring around them.
2. Inserting them when the resin is partially cured.
3. Drilling holes and screwing them in after the resin has cured.

Each one has its advantages. Inserting handles as part of the process allows you to have less of a job finishing it up. The first way means you’ll have the metal part of the handles showing on the bottom. It’s also another step of the process to work in and you’ll need to work around it with your design.

The second, partially curing and then adding, allows you to skip the hardware, but you’ll need to get to know your resin well to see when the ideal time is to do this. It’s ideal for a totally fluid design, not one with fixed elements.

Drilling holes and adding the handles after feels the most professional to me, which is why I did it. You need to make sure you don’t add anything difficult to drill in the spots where you’ll be doing that, but you can totally work around your existing design other than that. You’ll also need to make sure to get your placement right. It’s a bit more work, but looks so good.

How to Make a Resin Tray

Ready for the step by step tutorial? Just a reminder: this will vary based on what your specific project is! I’ll share based on what I did.

What you Need

Materials

• Epoxy resin
• White or black resin dye
• OR glitter
• For resin tray with handles: Rectangular tray mold
• Two cabinet or resin tray handles – many tray molds come with handles included. However, if you’re making this with a mold you already have or want a different style, you’ll want to get this separately.
• For resin tray with rimmed: rimmed oval resin tray mold
• Mix-ins and decorations if doing a fixed design tray. Ideas: dried flowers, sprinkles, etc.
• Disposable gloves
• Felt sliders or regular adhesive felt for tray with handles
• Optional: raw rice (to measure how much resin you need – can be eaten after)

Tools & Equipment

• Respirator mask
• Heat gun
• Measuring cup
• Mixing jug
• Sticks for stirring
• Drill
• Screwdriver

Crafting the Tray Itself

Rimmed tray

On this one we’ll be showing a more fluid design with glitter and pigment.

1. Optional: to gauge how much resin you’ll need, you can add rice to your mold and then measure how much it takes to fill it. Keep in mind, you’ll need to clean your mold after.

2. Mix up your resin. Stir it slowly to avoid air bubbles. Mix according to package instructions.

3. Slowly mix in any glitters or pigments you plan to use.

4. Fill your base layer and pop air bubbles using a heat gun. Note: I HIGHLY recommend first filling the rim, popping those bubbles, and then filling the base.

5. I allowed my transparent glitter layer to cure overnight and then added a layer with black pigment.

6. When fully cured, demold.

Note: my sample has LOTS of air bubbles because I did not follow the above advice on this tray. The next one was much better….

Flat Tray

On this one, I’ll be using a fixed design.

1. Measure and mix up your resin. Spread a thin layer on the bottom of your tray, zap air bubbles, and allow it to get tacky (timing will vary based on resin.

2. Place your design on your tacky surface. I used Hanukkah candles to make a Menorah tray. You’re doing it when your first layer is tacky so that it stays fixed in place.

3. Allow it to cure and pour your next layer. If you want it to be fully clear around the design, first do a clear layer and then a backing layer. I did a translucent white backing layer, then swirled in small amounts of straight white pigment with a toothpick to add a subtle marbled effect.

When it’s totally cured, demold it and we’ll then add handles…

Adding Handles to a Resin Tray

1. Mark the location of your holes. Note: using masking tape to make a template on your hardware and applying it to your resin tray might help.

2. Drill your holes.

3. Partially screw in your screws from back to front so that they just hit the surface of the front of the resin.

4. Place your handle where it belongs and holding it in place with your weak hand, screw the screws into the hardware.

5. Add felt sliders to cover the screws and serve as “legs” for your tray.

You’ve learned how to make a resin tray with handles or a rim! Which do you prefer and what will you be using yours for? Comment below!

DIY Resin Vanity Tray Tutorials

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 25 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Learn how to make DIY resin vanity tray in two styles - with handles or with a rim! Either way it's a fun, easy resin craft for beginners to try.

Print

Materials

• Epoxy resin
• White or black resin dye
• OR glitter
• For resin tray with handles: Rectangular tray mold
• Two cabinet or resin tray handles – many tray molds come with handles included. However, if you’re making this with a mold you already have or want a different style, you’ll want to get this separately.
• For resin tray with rimmed: rimmed oval resin tray mold
• Mix-ins and decorations if doing a fixed design tray. Ideas: dried flowers, sprinkles, etc.
• Disposable gloves
• Felt sliders or regular adhesive felt for tray with handles
• Optional: raw rice (to measure how much resin you need – can be eaten after)

Tools

• Respirator mask
• Heat gun
• Measuring cup
• Mixing jug
• Sticks for stirring
• Drill
• Screwdriver

Instructions

Rimmed tray

1. Optional: to gauge how much resin you'll need, you can add rice to your mold and then measure how much it takes to fill it. Keep in mind, you'll need to clean your mold after.

2. Mix up your resin. Stir it slowly to avoid air bubbles. Mix according to package instructions.

3. Slowly mix in any glitters or pigments you plan to use.

4. Fill your base layer and pop air bubbles using a heat gun. Note: I HIGHLY recommend first filling the rim, popping those bubbles, and then filling the base.

5. I allowed my transparent glitter layer to cure overnight and then added a layer with black pigment.

6. When fully cured, demold.

Flat Tray

1. Measure and mix up your resin. Spread a thin layer on the bottom of your tray, zap air bubbles, and allow it to get tacky (timing will vary based on resin.

2. Place your design on your tacky surface. I used Hanukkah candles to make a Menorah tray. You're doing it when your first layer is tacky so that it stays fixed in place.

3. Allow it to cure and pour your next layer. If you want it to be fully clear around the design, first do a clear layer and then a backing layer. I did a translucent white backing layer, then swirled in small amounts of straight white pigment with a toothpick to add a subtle marbled effect.

When it's totally cured, demold it and we'll then add handles...

Adding Handles

1. Mark the location of your holes. Note: using masking tape to make a template on your hardware and applying it to your resin tray might help.

2. Drill your holes.

3. Partially screw in your screws from back to front so that they just hit the surface of the front of the resin.

4. Place your handle where it belongs and holding it in place with your weak hand, screw the screws into the hardware.

5. Add felt sliders to cover the screws and serve as "legs" for your tray.

Notes

Critical tips for making resin trays

• Level your surface
• Mix your resin slowly and take your time with air bubbles
• Protect your surface

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to Make a Resin Tray with Handles appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I love setting my table with napkin rings, and for that reason, I’ve shared tutorials for leather napkin rings as well as these gorgeous and ridiculously easy copper and ceramic bead napkin rings.

But I wanted an option that’s cleaner, more neutral, and brightens up the table more for when the occasion calls for it, so I crafted some pretty air dry clay napkin rings – that anyone can make!

Clay napkin rings are relatively easy to make. You want to keep the shape organic, so you don’t want to do it too perfectly, which lends itself to a forgiving crafting experience.

You WILL want to shape it around something. I thought a cardboard tube was the way to go, but I wanted something a bit flatter, plus I found it hard to work with. I ended up shaping little rings in the size I wanted out of plastic dividers and it worked fabulously. They were easy to remove from the center by simply opening the taped ring.

Adding style to clay napkin rings

As you can see, I left my clay napkin rings plain. I made them specifically as a more minimalist option for when I wanted something clean, to let the rest of the table setting shine.

But I’ve got loads of ideas to add style or color these, some of which can be done wet and some can be done after it’s dried.

Ways to color it

I wanted mine to look fresh and white, so again, I didn’t color it. But here some ways I’ve painted other clay projects.

• Painting it afterward – this gives you the cleanest, most polished look and you can go in any direction with this. Paint it in pops of color, or even paint it white for a more even finish than the clay itself gives you.
• Painting with special finishes – I’ve used brushed metallic paint to make it look almost like metal. You can also paint stone or concrete finishes – and I’m sure there are lots more out there! You can also add sand to paint for texture to really make it cool.
• Mixing paint into the clay – You can mix various paints and pigments into uncured air dry clay to turn the clay a color. The look is totally different (see these seashell necklaces for reference).
• Watercolor dip or painting – Watercolor paints make gorgeous effects on air dry clay – see this DIY clay seder plate – but you do need to leave it extra time for the clay to cure as it makes it very wet.

Adding cool details

Again, clay gives you endless opportunities for making it your own. You can add details both externally or within the texture of the clay napkin rings themselves.

• Pressed Flowers – Add pressed flowers to the clay by gluing them on and then sealing them. Or, roll large leaves into the wet, flat clay and remove before forming them into rings.
• Rolling in texture from texture sheets – There are so many texture sheets you can get in cool finishes. Roll these on before forming rings. Note: you’ll probably have something of a seam without the texture.
• Pressing with a ball-tip tool for a “hammered” look – I’ve done this many times, including on this air dry clay Menorah. It looks fabulous! You may need to do this before forming rings.
• Gilded edges – Paint the edges only with gold paint or paint marker for a hint of glam! I’m considering doing this on mine. It’ll combine well with the watercolors. You can also use gilding wax.
• Chalk Pastel – I’ve used chalk pastel shavings in the past to add a fabulous finish to my clay projects. You will need to seal them if you do this – see below.

Sealing clay napkin rings

Leaving clay napkin rings unsealed leaves them with a matte look, but also vulnerable to getting stained and ruined.

Sealers come in many different types and finishes – and it’s the finish that will really influence how it looks. One of my favorites is satin or matte for understated elegance, but something high gloss will make it look more ceramic.

Some ways to seal air dry clay include

• Mod Podge – Since this is a craft room staple, easily available, and affordable, it’s a fabulous option. The biggest downside is that the classic varieties – that come in more finishes – aren’t very hard sealers. The fix is to use one of their hard finishing formulas, such as hard coat (which has a satin finish), dishwasher safe, or super gloss.
• Acrylic Spray Sealer – This spray sealer is relatively easy to use and a good way to protect added finishes.
• Clay Sealer (also acrylic based)- This is my favorite way to finish air dry clay napkin rings, and it’s because of how solid it feels. I do believe it’s the priciest option of the lot. It goes on thicker than the spray, which is why I put it as a separate option.
• Polyurethane varnish – I have not tried this, but it is a great option to try as well.
• Resin – Sealing with resin would be the most durable, hard-wearing option, however, it’s very finicky. You’ll probably want to mount the rings on a horizontal dowel to work with them and keep it to a thin layer so that it’s not drippy. If you have experience with working with resin-coated tumblers this’ll probably be a cinch for you. Otherwise, be prepared to figure things out – and maybe even ruin a couple of rings before you get it right.

How to make clay napkin rings

Supplies

• Air dry clay
• Plastic sheets such as acetate or plastic dividers
• Scissors
• Tape
• Craft knife
• Clay roller
• Recommended: rotary tool such as Dremel or MakerX
• Optional: acrylic paint, watercolors, etc to color and finish it off
• Preferred sealer (see above) such as Mod Podge, resin, polyurethane sealer, acrylic spray sealer, or clay (acrylic) sealer.
• Cup or jar with water

Process

1. You’ll want to start by detemining what size you want your napkin ring to be. You can measure a pre-existing napkin ring or form a ring with a tape measure and eyeball it.

Roll out your clay to about 1/4 inch thick to minimize cracking.

Cut it into a rectangle in the size you need. Mine was about an inch in height. Note: you can make a cardboard template if you want to be exact – I like the organic feel.

2. Create your internal molds. Cut strips of plastic wider than your napkin rings, and a bit longer as well. Form them into rings a bit smaller than you want your rings to be – this will determine the internal size. Tape shut.

3. Use your finger and water to wet the edges. Do this to all edges to smooth them, but in particular the edge that’ll be connected – the short edge.

4. Form a ring with the clay around the plastic mold you created. Smooth the edges together, using water as needed.

5. Place your napkin rings down on a flat nonstick surface (parchment paper works great) to fully air dry. The bottom will flatten a bit due to gravity, and the whole shape will form more into an oval than a ring naturally.

You may need to flip your rings over after a day to allow the bottom some air to dry it.

6. Sand the edges for a cleaner finish (but don’t try to make it perfect -you’ll ruin it!

Color and seal your DIY clay napkin rings as you see fit! Set your table and enjoy!

DIY Clay Napkin Ring Tutorial

Print

Materials

• Air dry clay
• Plastic sheets such as acetate or plastic dividers
• Scissors
• Tape
• Craft knife
• Clay roller
• Recommended: rotary tool such as Dremel or MakerX
• Optional: acrylic paint, watercolors, etc to color and finish it off
• Preferred sealer such as Mod Podge, resin, polyurethane sealer, acrylic spray sealer, or clay (acrylic) sealer.
• Cup or jar with water

Instructions

1. You'll want to start by detemining what size you want your napkin ring to be. You can measure a pre-existing napkin ring or form a ring with a tape measure and eyeball it.

Roll out your clay to about 1/4 inch thick to minimize cracking.

Cut it into a rectangle in the size you need. Mine was about an inch in height.

2. Create your internal molds. Cut strips of plastic wider than your napkin rings, and a bit longer as well. Form them into rings a bit smaller than you want your rings to be - this will determine the internal size. Tape shut.

3. Use your finger and water to wet the edges. Do this to all edges to smooth them, but in particular the edge that'll be connected - the short edge.

4. Form a ring with the clay around the plastic mold you created. Smooth the edges together, using water as needed.

5. Place your napkin rings down on a flat nonstick surface (parchment paper works great) to fully air dry. The bottom will flatten a bit due to gravity, and the whole shape will form more into an oval than a ring naturally.

You may need to flip your rings over after a day to allow the bottom some air to dry it.

6. Sand the edges for a cleaner finish (but don't try to make it perfect -you'll ruin it!

Color and seal your DIY clay napkin rings as you see fit! Set your table and enjoy!

Notes

Leaving clay napkin rings unsealed leaves them with a matte look, but also vulnerable to getting stained and ruined.

Sealers come in many different types and finishes - and it's the finish that will really influence how it looks. One of my favorites is satin or matte for understated elegance, but something high gloss will make it look more ceramic.

Some ways to seal air dry clay include:

- Mod Podge - Since this is a craft room staple, easily available, and affordable, it's a fabulous option. The biggest downside is that the classic varieties - that come in more finishes - aren't very hard sealers. The fix is to use one of their hard finishing formulas, such as outdoor, dishwasher safe, or ultra gloss (I think).

- Acrylic Spray Sealer - This spray sealer is relatively easy to use and a good way to protect finishes.

- Clay Sealer (also acrylic based) - This is my favorite way to finish air dry clay napkin rings, and it's because of how solid it feels. I do believe it's the priciest option of the lot. It goes on thicker than the spray, which is why I put it as a separate option.

- Polyurethane varnish - I have not tried this, but it is a great option to try as well.

- Resin - Sealing with resin would be the most durable, hard-wearing option, however, it's very finicky. You'll probably want to mount the rings on a horizontal dowel to work with them and keep it to a thin layer so that it's not drippy. If you have experience with working with resin-coated tumblers this'll probably be a cinch for you. Otherwise, be prepared to figure things out - and maybe even ruin a couple of rings.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

Did you try this craft? Did you enjoy making air dry clay napkin rings? Got any tips or variation to share? Comment below!

The post Air Dry Clay Napkin Rings Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

As you may have noticed from this previous post, I have a soft spot for rustic decor. My home has naturally rustic touches and I’m in love with them.

So when I saw these unfinished planks of wood at the dollar store, I just had to find the perfect use for them – and here it is! You can use simple small planks in any size to customize the scale of your tray – just use the process tow work with what’s available.

Use this wooden tray to display smaller decorative objects, corral toiletries in your guest room or powder room, or to display items in a buffet spread (I wouldn’t put food straight on this, though, unless you use a food-grade finish).

This tray is purely decorative – I wouldn’t use it for actual serving because there’s no lip to stop things from falling off and the handles aren’t very strong – they’re mostly for show. But it can help keep your table or buffet clean by placing dishes or drinks on top of it.

While the finished product looks sophisticated and even somewhat upscale, this craft is really easy to do and can come together in minutes. You don’t need to be artistic to pull off this classy yet simple look. Crafters and helpers of any age can participate (young crafters will need your help to attach the handles with tacks.)

An advantage of the rustic style is that imperfections are part of the look – so you can relax and jump right in without worrying about your level of skill or neatness. Just as no two trees are quite the same, no two wooden trays are, either! So don’t worry if the edges of your wood pieces don’t line up just so, or if the paint came on a little blotchy. It’s all part of the vibe.

This is a perfect craft to let your personal taste shine – if you’re not into the rustic farmhouse style, you can easily dress it up any way with different colors and types of paint. Try using a stencil to add a pop of design with paint, or add a glossy or semi-gloss finish if you prefer a sheen.

I’ve given you dimensions based on the materials I used, but feel free to go smaller or larger depending on what you have available and what you plan to use the tray for. This really is a super flexible, easygoing craft.

What you’ll need

• 4 pieces of wood, about 1 inch thick and 12 inches long – or combine multiple pieces to get your desired size.
• Glue (wood glue would be great, but other strong craft glues – such as Tacky glue – should work too)
• Paint – white or off-white
• Foam paint brush
• Rope – the rope you’ll choose will strongly influence the look of your final tray
• 4 thumb tacks
• Scissors

How to make a DIY wooden tray

1. Arrange the wood chunks side by side, in the shape of a tray. Glue them along the edges. If you have time, it  may be helpful to hold each piece firmly for a minute or two while it sets, before adding the next one.

2. Allow time for the glue to dry fully. Use the foam paintbrush to paint the whole tray. If you want to see the wood grain, use less paint and a light touch – you can even try wiping off the paint after applying it to see if you like that look. If you prefer an opaque color and don’t want to see the wood grain, consider adding a second coat of paint after waiting for the first one to dry.

3. Cut two pieces of rope about 7 inches long – the exact length isn’t so important, as long as they’re the same as each other.

4. Use thumb tacks to attach a piece of rope as a handle on each end of the tray.

Tip: you can also glue it in place for added security.

Your DIY wooden tray is complete – display and enjoy!

How to Make an Easy Wooden Tray

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Materials

• 4 pieces of wood, about 1 inch thick and 12 inches long
• Glue (wood glue would be great, but other strong craft glues - such as Tacky glue - should work too)
• Paint - white or off-white
• Foam paint brush
• Rope - the rope you’ll choose will strongly influence the look of your final tray
• 4 thumb tacks
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Arrange the wood chunks side by side, in the shape of a tray. Glue them along the edges. If you have time, it may be helpful to hold each piece firmly for a minute or two while it sets, before adding the next one.
2. Allow time for the glue to dry fully. Use the foam paintbrush to paint the whole tray. If you want to see the wood grain, use less paint and a light touch - you can even try wiping off the paint after applying it to see if you like that look. If you prefer an opaque color and don’t want to see the wood grain, consider adding a second coat of paint after waiting for the first one to dry.
3. Cut two pieces of rope about 7 inches long - the exact length isn’t so important, as long as they’re the same as each other.
4. Use thumb tacks to attach a piece of rope as a handle on each end of the tray.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

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