This in-depth xTool DTF printer review of their apparel printer minus the oven will hopefully answer all your questions before purchasing! When you’re done, check out my rundown of the xTool F1 vs. the F1 Ultra too. This post contains affiliate links.

If you are tired of weeding vinyl, waiting on outsourced transfers, or watching print on demand profits disappear into fees, this xTool DTF printer review is designed to help you decide on your next investment.

The big question is a simple one: does the xTool Apparel Printer make sense if you buy the unit as a standalone machine and skip the professional shaker oven for now? While the shaker oven is a great time saver, it is a component that can technically be added to your workflow later as your business scales.

This xTool DTF Printer review examines the standalone printer from a beginner’s point of view, with a strong focus on setup, software, print quality, maintenance, and what it can do in a real home craft room – and a tiny one, like mine.

As someone who has been making apparel for years including HTV cutting, outsourced DTF and an extremely frustrating experiment with POD, or print on demand, I am so excited to share my thoughts on xTool’s Apparel printer, even though we’re trying it without the shaker oven that makes it even more instant.

Before we start, some housekeeping is important. XTool sent this to me to review. I have a very specific formula for reviews to help keep my bias in-check when evaluating an item like this: I try to address specific questions, who it is ideal for, and objective fact – play by plays of how different tests worked The goal is to help you make an informed decision based on my third party tests and your specific needs.

I also spent a lot on materials to enable me to show you what it can do to the best of my abilities, and spent weeks testing, so if you do choose to purchase, please do so through my affiliate links! It doesn’t cost you any extra and helps support the work that I do here.

If you prefer to watch this in video format, you can do so here! Or scroll down to read all about my thoughts, tests, and see photos of what I’ve made (and yes, I AM proud!)

Key Takeaways

Here’s a summary of what I’ll be addressing in this xTool DTF printer review.

• Scalable Investment: Buying the xTool Apparel Printer as a standalone unit can be a deal-maker for small businesses who need to budget in stages before committing to the full automated oven system.
• Professional Print Quality: The dual Epson I1600 printheads deliver vibrant, high-resolution prints that are superior to traditional hobbyist methods and competitive with professional outsourced services, and other similar desktop DTF printers.
• Simplified Maintenance: Integrated features like automatic cleaning and white ink circulation remove much of the intimidation factor usually associated with direct-to-film printing, provided the machine is used consistently.
• Improved Profitability: By bringing production in-house, artists and apparel designers can significantly increase profit margins compared to print-on-demand services, all while gaining greater control over quality and turnaround times. And that’s in addition to making bulk order fulfillment much more viable.

What the xTool Apparel Printer is, and who it is best for

The xTool Apparel Printer is a professional-grade direct-to-film printer designed to streamline the way you create custom garments. By using the xTool Apparel Printer for DTF printing, you can produce high-quality transfers that adhere seamlessly to fabric and various soft goods. This post examines the printer as a standalone unit, rather than the full bundle that includes an automated shaker oven. This distinction is vital for any small business owner who is interested in scaling their production capacity in more manageable stages.

For those already making custom t-shirts with a vinyl cutting machine or ordering transfers from external vendors, this device serves as a significant upgrade that brings professional-grade production in-house. It offers faster turnaround times, greater design control, and the ability to rectify mistakes immediately.

However, it is important to note that this is not a casual hobby tool for someone printing only occasionally. As an ink-based machine, it requires consistent maintenance, so if you are looking for a device that can sit idle for weeks, outsourcing may remain the better option.

To understand the workflow, it helps to break the process down. First, the printer applies your design onto PET transfer film. Next, you must apply adhesive powder, also known as hot melt powder, to the wet ink. The final stage is the curing process, which involves applying controlled heat to set the design so it can eventually be transferred to your apparel.

While the full xTool system with the shaker oven automates the powder application and heat curing (and is definitely the more powerful business tool), this standalone review explores the manual workflow, allowing you to see how the printer performs on its own.

Purchasing the printer without the full automation package might be a strategy for buyers on a budget. It allows you to master the basics of the technology, test your market demand, and determine your actual production needs before committing to additional equipment.

Whether you are an Etsy shop owner looking to improve profit margins or a crafter ready to move away from third-party suppliers, this staged approach provides a clear path to growth.

If you are buying the printer alone, plan your curing setup before your first print. The printer produces excellent output, but the transition from raw film to a finished transfer requires a dedicated curing process to avoid frustration and wasted materials.

By testing the printer as a standalone unit, I provide a more realistic perspective for small shops that prefer to expand their production line gradually rather than investing in a complete system all at once.

What comes in the box and how setup went from a beginner’s point of view

xTool, in my experience with them, always packs their machines really well, and that held true here too. The printer arrived with heavy internal protection, clear labeling, and the parts needed to get started the same day, without having to hunt anything down (other than your soft surfaces to decorate).

While the xTool Apparel Printer is not plug-and-play (like most crafting technology), the process is manageable if you go step by step and follow the manual. The core assembly is simple – just attach the film roll holder at the back, though the more technical aspects begin once you move into ink filling, film loading, and the first ink extraction.

Inside the box, you will find the main machine, the pieces for the rear film-roll holder, the output tray, ink bottles, moisturizing liquid, cleaning supplies, and maintenance tools. It also includes syringes for manual ink extraction, which proved to be essential during my initial setup. I recommend grabbing a small storage box right away for the spare parts you will not use every day, as this keeps your workspace organized and ensures you have what you need when you need it.

The consumables, including the film, inks, and maintenance fluids, were clearly packed separately. The color bottles are easy to identify, each featuring a bold letter (colorblind-friendly) and a shaped spout to prevent accidental mixing.

When installing the film roll and filling the inks, note that the printer utilizes a specific CMYKW ink set. You’ll want to stick to xTool’s inks since using third-party inks may affect your warranty. That is standard amongst most brands, as they can’t guarantee the quality of other brands with sensitive consumables.

The ink filling process is straightforward; open one tank at a time to ensure colors do not splash into nearby openings. The white ink tank is larger than the others, which is vital because direct-to-film printing relies on a heavy white backing to ensure designs appear vibrant rather than translucent on dark apparel. The moisturizing liquid also receives its own reservoir, a detail that highlights the importance of the maintenance-focused design of this machine.

Regarding technical specifications, the printer is powered by dual Epson I1600 printheads and achieves a high-quality resolution of 720 x 1800 dpi. It supports both Mac and Windows, with included software that consolidates design, layout, RIP (the software that translates the image for your printer into a high quality print), and printer controls into a single interface.

The one real snag I encountered during setup was during the initial ink extraction process. Air in the lines can cause the machine to fail on the first attempt. If this happens, do not worry; it is not a service-call-level problem. After about an hour of troubleshooting and checking xTool support materials, manual priming solved the issue. This experience provides a key insight into the learning curve of this device. The printer is designed to be accessible, but it remains a sophisticated ink-based system.

You may need to learn this maintenance task early on, which is a standard part of owning a professional DTF setup. Once the manual extraction was complete, the printer performed reliably, and a simple auto cleaning routine at startup kept everything running smoothly. Otherwise, it is a completely accessible machine for beginners, and I don’t think you need to be super techie to make this work.

Printer Specs and Features Overview

This is a very basic rundown of the printer specs and features in case you want it here – scroll past this if you’re just looking for my opinion.

• Prints on virtually any fabric type, including:
  • Cotton
  • Polyester
  • Cotton/poly blends
  • Denim
  • Canvas
  • Spandex
  • Nylon
  • Many other common apparel textiles
• Works on both light and dark fabrics without requiring different printing workflows for garment color.
• Supports highly detailed, full-color graphics, including:
  • Photographs
  • Fine text
  • Gradients
  • Complex illustrations
  • Multi-color logos
  • Intricate artwork
• No color limitations in a single print, allowing full CMYK artwork without the color restrictions associated with traditional screen printing.
• CMYK + White (CMYK+WWWW) ink configuration for vibrant colors and opaque white underbase printing.
• Dual Epson I1600 industrial printheads designed for commercial production with improved throughput and image quality.
• G7-certified color accuracy, helping produce consistent and repeatable color output across jobs.
• High-resolution printing up to 720 × 1800 DPI for sharp images and fine detail reproduction.
• 3.8 picoliter minimum ink droplet size, allowing smoother gradients and finer image detail.
• Printing speeds up to 50 sq ft/hour (at 720 × 1200 DPI settings), supporting higher production volumes.
• 14-inch print width for producing transfers suitable for most apparel applications.
• Maximum printable area of 14 × 18 inches (356 × 460 mm).
• Single sheet-fed printing workflow designed around individual transfer sheets rather than gang sheets.
• Integrated automatic film cutting, eliminating manual trimming after printing.
• Supports a wide variety of printable products, including:
  • T-shirts
  • Hoodies
  • Sweatshirts
  • Hats
  • Tote bags
  • Jackets
  • Canvas items
  • Shoes
  • Team apparel
  • Promotional merchandise
• Built-in AI-powered 16 MP camera used for automatic printer calibration and alignment.
• Automatic printhead cleaning system that performs maintenance without requiring frequent manual intervention.
• Automatic white ink circulation system (WIMS) to reduce pigment settling and help minimize clogging.
• Automatic white ink stirring as part of ongoing maintenance.
• Automatic printhead moisturizing system that helps keep printheads conditioned during idle periods.
• 24/7 self-maintenance capability while powered, reducing routine maintenance requirements compared with many traditional DTF printers.
• Designed to reduce printhead clogging through automated maintenance features.
• App-based remote monitoring, allowing users to check printer status remotely.
• Uses xTool Studio software, which combines multiple production functions into one interface.
• Built-in RIP functionality, eliminating the need for separate RIP software in typical workflows.
• Automatic nesting to optimize media usage by arranging multiple graphics efficiently.
• Integrated print layout tools for arranging artwork before printing.
• Compatible with both Windows and macOS, making it usable across major desktop operating systems.
• Compact desktop footprint measuring approximately 35.63 × 14.37 × 14.03 inches (905 × 365 × 356.5 mm).
• Printer weight of approximately 61.7 lb (34 kg). Use a team of two for first unboxing.
• Supports worldwide power standards with 100–120 V or 220–240 V AC input compatibility.
• 50/60 Hz electrical compatibility
• Typical operating power consumption of approximately 350 W.
• Low-power sleep mode, consuming approximately 23.5 W (about 0.5 kWh/day).
• Recommended operating temperature of approximately 68–89°F (20–30°C).
• Recommended operating humidity of 50–80% RH for optimal performance.

As always, brand specs are based on ideal testing conditions. Real results depend on your film, fabric, settings, and curing method.

Is the xTool DTF Printer Worth It for Beginners?

My favorite part of this printer is the overall picture of how it performed, as I explore in this xTool DTF printer review. It is the way the machine reduces little pain points that usually make beginners struggle with this type of equipment. Some examples are the auto maintenance system, the menu layout, the print-cost estimate, the easy access panels, and the software. None of those features are especially exciting, but together, they make the machine feel less intimidating and indicate a well-made, well-researched, solid machine. And the sleek, minimalist, but mature design doesn’t hurt either.

Auto maintenance and intuitive workflow

DTF printers live and die by maintenance, especially because white ink is heavy (it’s what makes the print opaque) and can settle. xTool puts a lot of effort into that side of the experience to simplify the process. The system features auto-cleaning maintenance routines to keep the printheads in top shape, and with proper care, the printheads in this all-in-one system are designed for impressive longevity.

The website lists automatic printhead cleaning and moisturizing as core features. More importantly, the integrated white ink circulation and white ink circulation systems ensure the pigment remains suspended, which is a massive help for clogging prevention. The printer monitors itself and performs upkeep when left plugged in, which significantly lowers the risk of clogs. I’ve been leaving it plugged-in, and coming back has been painless.

In day-to-day use, that translated into a simple routine for me. Turn the printer on, let it run its startup cleaning, and print a test image. If the test looked wonky, another cleaning cycle usually fixed it. This didn’t take more than five minutes total. That kind of routine is realistic for a home shop. It does not remove maintenance from the picture, but it keeps it manageable.

Order extra white ink from the start. It gets used faster than the colors because it backs almost every dark-garment print.

Generally speaking, I recommend having a month’s backup supplies at all times – minimum, so get a backup of each color, film, powder….

The printer’s built-in screen is easy to understand, providing access to tasks, maintenance, settings, and calibration.

Inside, the hardware is laid out in a way that makes upkeep less stressful. Ink lines are visible, the waste tank pulls out from the side, and the printhead area is easy to access.

When it comes to craft tech, software is also very important. If you already use xTool laser machines, you’ll love that you’ll be using the same xTool Studio for the apparel printer. Not only is it familiar, but it’s also great software…

The connection over Wi-Fi was easy, and xTool Studio handled layout, mirroring, quality settings, and cost estimates without a lot of fuss. You can create mockups using their software to get a general idea of sizing. Before printing, the software shows time and material cost, which is useful when you are pricing products and trying to figure out whether a custom item makes sense after accounting for blank goods and shipping.

Real test projects that show what the printer can do on different materials

My favorite part of every review is always the project testing, because it shows just how far you can stretch a device. I hope to give you new ideas to try to support your craft or design business.

Many of the tests were creative, a few were rough around the edges, and some of the misses were tied more to the curing process than the actual printing. Still, the range was impressive. Offering more than just t-shirts can give you a real edge on competitors, and having more ideas and options can help satisfy more challenging clients.

Apparel and fabric basics

xTool also says the printer works across a wide range of fabrics, including cotton and polyester, as well as denim, canvas, spandex, and nylon. A significant advantage here is that the process requires no pretreatment (even on dark garments), unlike DTG printing. Once the film is ready, you simply use a heat press machine to finalize the design.

I’m going to run you through my test so that you can see real examples of how the xTool Apparel Printer works.

A t-shirt for my toddler’s birthday

I designed a little moon motif for my son’s third birthday, and decided to try printing it on a black shirt.

The color is vivid and the edges are crisp, even though I did not run it at the highest quality setting. It can also be made brighter by increasing white to 100% as I had it at 75%. But I like it a lot like this, since it looks like it was printed directly on the shirt, but will last longer than DTG printing.

A Craft Event Apron

I sometimes run craft workshops, and wanted to create an apron to wear – mainly for the pockets, but also because I often dress up for the events and figured it’ll help with mess. The sage green apron with a linen-like texture is a perfect test case for clients like cafes, who want aprons for wait staff.

The apron test also showed one of the most useful small features in the software. Before printing, the program gave an estimated material cost of only $0.23 for that design. That is incredible for profit margins.

This design is an open design with no background and plenty of empty space, and it once again looks gorgeous. The more texture you have on your base fabric, the more important it is to press with a teflon sheet so that it looks like it’s part of the fabric. The colors show up true to the design thanks to the opaque white backing.

Socks

Socks were especially cute, and the small held up better than you might expect on a small, stretchy surface. This is such a fun promotional or hand-out, and since you can get the base for dirt cheap and the print is small, it’s another highly profitable option for businesses. The pair cost me under a dollar to make all-in.

Accessories and textured items

Small accessories are a fabulous option for craft fairs and local orders. Small prints usually make very affordable items, and for clients looking for bulk, or if you’re looking to grab the attention of first time buyers at a craft fair with impulse buys, these can make the whole difference. Just make sure to include a business card!

Sweaty Koozies + White Percentage Experiments

I used a sweating emoji from xTool Studio to make some fun koozies and test another black print. On this one, I did a side-by-side test with 75% white and 100% white. They turned out adorable, and the test also highlighted how much the white underbase changes the final look. The difference was easy to see side by side. The heavier white looked brighter and bolder on black, while the lighter white does seem more part of the fabric.

The transfer also held well on stretchy fabric, especially after the final press with a teflon sheet.

Can you print towels with the xTool Apparel printer?

Low-pile towels also took the print better than expected. The design still adhered well even without a perfect pre-press (I forgot – and it was a clean but used towel, grabbed from our guest bath), which says a lot about how forgiving the final transfer can be.

Tote bags

Textured canvas materials was one of the my favorite materials to use with the xTool Apparel Printer . Thanks to post-processing with a teflon sheet, they really kept the texture well.

A canvas tote offers opportunities for super-bulk orders, printing swag bags for events, shopping bags for stores, and more. DTF is a fabulous choice for branding, where color accuracy and durability is important.

Pencil pouches with zippers and fine details

Another “power test” that I did was on pencil cases. Here are three challenges that it stood up to with flying colors:

• I did not stress about the zipper and it held up fine, and did not interfere with the pressing either.
• The colors pop, even on the pitch black case.
• The black case has very fine lines on the design and no background. Every little dot, paperclip, pushpin tip came out flawless. Just think of all those lost parts you had while weeding HTV… you won’t have any of that here!

Canvas Panels

Another favorite (can I keep saying that?) are these canvas posters I made with my son’s birthday party – and then his bedroom – in mind. This duo was taken from xTool Atomm, modified to fit 8×10 boards, and printed. I then pressed it on the canvas boards.

Unfortunately, as I was pressing they shifted. I do look forward to revisiting edge-to-edge canvas printing (some bleed might help) but regarding the machine performance and the practicality of DTF on canvas: it worked seamlessly.

Meanwhile, I fixed these by sanding the edges for a distressed look. The print itself looks convincing, with the texture of the canvas showing through after a teflon press, opening up another monetization option: custom canvas prints. You’ll just need to figure out the edge-to-edge issue (which I’ll share here when I do). I think the WonderPress might help with this, but we’ll have to see.

I also did a no-background print of my logo on a smaller canvas panel to use in video content, and it worked flawlessly. I hope to use this method to print a logo on canvas to make a sign-in board for events, with the white area around the logo serving as a sign-in spot.

Custom planners and journals

In pushing the limits of the xTool DTF printer, I had to review printing it on something unconventional. I love notebooks, planners, and journals as custom gifts and event handouts, so I took an undated planner and labeled it “2027”. It worked so well.

Textured Throw Pillows

Throw pillows were one of those prints that I struggled with due to my curing limitations and the size, and I hope to revisit this (same print, other side) when I have the WonderPress oven module to try. But it did come out very very well on the pressing angle of things.

The print adhered beautifully to the very thick, almost burlap-y canvas fabric.

Creative materials and troubleshooting

I wanted to share some of my messups, as well as some raw crafting materials that I wanted to customize.

Printing on raw materials

This is where the review got really fun and totally in my zone. Faux suede took a print beautifully….

fabric would have been better with a negative space design instead of a white background, but overall it worked well….

and custom ribbon was a huge hit with my daughter.

I plan to add this to a clip to make her a hairbow, and I think this can be a really cool way to make team bows for cheerleaders.

Faux leather patches and sublimation patches

Once you can put something on a patch, you get a really upgraded look that is so open-ended. I added a just-for-fun emoji to a sublimation blank iron-on patch because I thought it would look cool, and it worked well. The embroidery did not interfere with pressing at all.

Then, I decided to try to repurpose a faux leather patch that I had messed up during laser engraving tests. It looks fabulous – the opaque print helped me salvage what was otherwise trash. Had I done 100% white I’d have gotten sellable results, but with 75% white you can faintly see the engraving through. It’s still great for personal use.

Branding and packaging

I mentioned canvas tote bags above, but you can do so much more with branding and bags! A burlap-style bag can be a shopping bag for more boutique-style businesses, and organza gift packaging, great for jewelry businesses, and also worked well.

The burlap shows the texture shows through beautifully (also thanks to a post-press with a teflon sheet).

The organza bag was a bit trickier. I did put a parchment in the center and had to peel the full print off. It does warrant further testing to see the best method and type of print for it (background vs. no background), but it’s absolutely workable.

The fails and what went wrong – wood, plastic-y materials, and larger prints

A few tests failed, and they are worth mentioning so that you have a good idea of what might be a bit trickier here. One nylon case melted, and some wood tests partly adhered before failing. A larger shirt transfer cured with a heat gun ended up wrinkled and messy because the backing film was hard to heat evenly without damage. I salvaged it to make it usable for my son.

While these issues might be important to share in the interest of transparency, they did not in this case point to a weak printer. They point to the limits of improvised curing. When a print came out of the machine, it looked great. Some of my curing was inconsistent, and I didn’t manage to play much with heat settings on later, more creative tests. That is important context if you are judging the standalone printer. The printer did its part far better than the workaround curing method did.

Print quality, color, and size limits you should know before buying

The print quality is incredible and had me floored. The colors are clean and bright, small details remain sharp, and black garments showcase strong contrast thanks to the consistent white underbase.

The website highlights the G7-certified color accuracy and dual Epson printheads, which are capable of delivering a resolution of 720 x 1800 dpi. Regardless of the technical backend, the practical takeaway is that the finished transfers look professional. When you prioritize high print quality, you ensure that every product you ship meets customer expectations. All logo prints were accurate to the companies’ branding.

Why the colors are so strong and clean

Even without selecting the maximum quality settings, the prints appear sharp. Fine lines on small graphics remain intact, text is readable, and solid color areas look smooth.

This level of professional output is vital when showing products to potential customers. A crisp, high-quality result helps you feel confident selling your apparel, as the finished item no longer looks like a homemade compromise. Ever get “imposter syndrome” when showing your work? xTool Apparel Printer is high quality and helps me avoid that.

xTool states that their tuned ink, film, and powder system is engineered to reduce clogging and improve final results. While this review did not compare official consumables against third-party alternatives (I don’t want to risk it myself), it is worth noting that xTool links specific performance claims and extended printhead warranty terms to the use of their official materials.

White ink levels and the final look on dark items

White ink deserves a dedicated mention because it changes everything when printing on dark blanks.

A higher white ink setting results in a brighter, more vibrant print, which is perfect when you want a logo or graphic to pop against black fabric. A lower white setting produces a softer aesthetic, which in some cases may blend more naturally with the material.

Neither choice is inherently wrong, as the result depends entirely on the specific item and the style you want to achieve. The important part is that the software provides granular control over these settings. If a print on a dark garment looks dull, increasing the white ink percentage is one of the first adjustments to make.

How much space the printer gives you for larger designs

The usable print area is quite capable for a home-based business. The xTool Apparel Printer offers a 14-inch print width and a 14 by 18-inch maximum area, meaning you can complete many adult-size, full-front or full-back designs without feeling restricted.

Large tote bags and pillow designs also work well, though some larger prints require a bit of creativity during manual curing. In some cases, separate design elements can be cut and positioned before pressing, provided there is enough negative space in the artwork.

If your workflow involves printing oversized designs daily, ensure your curing and pressing equipment matches the scale of your output. Overall, the hardware provides ample room for ambitious and professional projects.

Maintenance, cost, and business potential for home apparel sellers

While the cost of the printer is pretty high, it’s also a very powerful tool for one of the most popular items: custom apparel.

The economics are significantly better than print on demand for any small business owner who is already getting apparel orders and wants to keep more profit. In fact, if you’ve tried print on demand, you may have even lost on some orders, making this an investment that can really pay for itself quite quickly.

What routine maintenance looks like in real life

The basic routine is simple. Turn the printer on, let it clean itself, and run a test print. If needed, run another cleaning cycle and empty the waste tank occasionally. Keep an eye on ink levels, especially the white ink – but of course, you’ll get a warning if it’s low.

That is not zero maintenance, but it is a manageable system with very little time investment and learning curve. The easy access panels help a lot because nothing is buried or requires dismantling for basic upkeep. When you need to check ink lines or reach the print area, you can do it without taking the machine apart.

Long gaps between uses are not ideal, but you’ll just need to do a bit more cleaning to get it going again, should you choose to go on vacation for a change.

So what does it actually cost to run it?

One of my favorite features for a small business owner is the on-screen material estimate. In the test here, a small apron print came in at only $0.23 in printing materials. A small canvas panel was $0.16.

xTool says an A3 sized film print, including film, ink, and powder, costs about $0.80 in consumables. When you add a blank shirt in the $3 to $5 range, your total cost per print lands near $4 to $6 before labor, packaging, and shipping. Because typical US retail pricing for custom shirts often falls between $20 and $40, your potential profit margin is significantly higher than what you would see using third party services.

Why this can beat print on demand for home sellers

Print on demand is easy to start, but the margins are thin and heavy losses are common due to miscalculations of fees. Fees pile up, shipping takes time, and if the finished item arrives damaged, you are stuck trying to defend a product you did not make yourself. I’ve been there and it wasn’t fun.

Printing in house changes that. You see the item before it ships. If there is a crease, a bad transfer, or a placement mistake, you can reprint and fix it immediately. This level of quality control is a big deal for those running a custom apparel business who want to build a base of repeat buyers. And it’s critical to those of us who actually care about our work.

Should you buy the xTool Apparel Printer even without the shaker oven?

For the right buyer, yes. The xTool Apparel Printer is strong enough to justify the purchase on its own, even if you can’t swing for the oven right now, provided you have a plan for curing and pressing.

If you expect this standalone setup to be fully automatic, you will likely be frustrated. However, if you are willing to learn the nuances of direct-to-film printing, invest in a possibly less-expensive tool for curing (like the xTool WonderPress that is coming out soon) and use the machine consistently, it makes a lot of sense. You can always plan for the eventual addition of a shaker oven to streamline your workflow as your business grows – and still use the WonderPress to press your apparel.

Who should buy now, and who should wait

This is a smart buy for sellers who already produce custom apparel and want to bring production home. If you’re already using more tedious or pricey methods, and are selling, you’ll likely find that it’ll pay for itself quite quickly. It also is a powerful tool for crafters who are serious about adding printed products to a shop, especially if they are tired of weeding layered vinyl or paying to outsource transfers.

Existing xTool users who already know the software and want their apparel workflow to live in the same ecosystem as their other machines will absolutely love this.

On the other hand, very occasional users should probably wait. If you only need a few custom shirts a year, you are not likely to use the xTool Apparel Printer often enough to justify the cost and upkeep.

And if you can swing for the oven, you should. Although I can’t review what I haven’t tried, I definitely missed having it throughout the process.

Final pros and cons in plain language

The pros of this printer – what we loved:

• Print quality is excellent, even before you start fine-tuning every setting.
• The software is easy to use, especially if you already own xTool machines. Even if you don’t, we find it to be very smooth and high quality software. Software scores high on our importance list with craft tech.
• Built-in maintenance features make the printer less intimidating for beginners.
• Easy-access via magnetic panels make maintenence easier for the less technically inclined.
• The machine gives you real control over color, white underbase, and print size.
• It works on far more than shirts, which is great for craft fairs and custom orders.

The downsides are universal to DTF printers, but worth knowing before starting out.

• You still need a reliable curing plan if you skip the shaker oven.
• First-time ink priming may take patience and is a learning curve
• Regular use is important, because ink printers can clog if they are ignored.
• White ink consumption is high, so keep a close eye on your supply levels.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I really need to use the machine every day?

While you do not need to print daily, you should keep the machine powered on and perform regular maintenance cycles to prevent the ink from settling or drying out. Because this is a professional-grade ink system, ignoring it for weeks at a time can lead to printhead clogs that are difficult to fix.

Can I use third-party inks to save money?

While it is technically possible to source alternative inks, doing so voids your warranty and can lead to inconsistent print quality or hardware issues. The xTool system is tuned for specific consumables, and using their official ink and film is highly recommended to ensure the longevity of your printheads. They can’t quality control other brands and can’t stand behind their machines if you choose to use those.

What is the biggest challenge for a beginner using this printer?

For those buying the standalone unit, the biggest hurdle is the manual curing process. You must have a consistent and reliable method for applying heat to the transfer after printing, as improper curing is a big cause of washability issues and failed projects.

Is the software difficult to learn?

If you have any experience with the xTool Studio software, the learning curve is very minimal. The software handles everything from design layout and mirroring to cost estimation, making it much more intuitive than the complex, third-party RIP software often required by other commercial DTF printers.

Final thoughts

My biggest takeaway is how well the printer itself performs, even without the full attached oven system. The print quality is impressive and professional grade, thanks to the dual Epson printheads, the workflow is beginner-friendly, and the maintenance side is much less intimidating than many direct-to-film printing setups.

This is still a real production machine, so it does need regular use and a little care. In return, it gives you professional results, better margins, faster turnaround, and far more control than outsourcing or print-on-demand.

For a home seller who is ready to print often and grow into a fuller apparel setup over time, the xTool Apparel Printer – even if you’re not yet ready to go all-in on the shaker oven – is a solid place to start. Whether you are looking for a compact solution or a stepping stone for your small business, this xTool DTF printer review highlights a reliable tool for high-quality custom apparel production.

The post xTool DTF Printer Review – the Apparel Printer Without the Oven appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you want a friendship bracelet that looks bright, neat, and a little bit magical, the candy stripe pattern is the one I always come back to. It’s the classic diagonal stripe, the one that looks great in school colors, summer brights, or soft pastels, and it’s honestly so satisfying once you see those stripes stack up.

I love this pattern because it’s so brainless and calming to make. You get into a rhythm, your hands stay busy, and the bracelet starts to look “real” pretty fast. Plus, it’s beginner-friendly, so it’s a sweet win if you’re helping a kid learn. In fact, I consider it to be one of the foundational friendship bracelets for beginners, alongside the spiral (Chinese Staircase) friendship bracelet.

In this guide, you’ll get simple options for colors, sizing tips that actually help, and clear instructions to carry you through, from your first knot to your final tie. Keep it relaxed, your first one doesn’t need to be perfect, it just needs to be yours.

Since the goal of this post is to teach you everything you need to know about making and designing the candy stripe friendship bracelet, it got a big long. So I decided to include a table of contents so that you can find your answers quicker.

What a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Is (and Why It’s So Popular)

What is the candy stripe pattern?

The Candy Stripe friendship bracelet pattern is very simple: form diagonal stripes by repeating the same knot direction across the row. You’re knotting stripes – the diagonal line forms naturally, as you knot and the level of the knots go down.

With the candy stripe friendship bracelet, you get a clean, bold look even with simple color choices. It’s really hard to get wrong. It works in 2 colors, rainbow, or ombré color schemes. It’s easier than similar bracelets, like the flip flop friendship bracelet.

Why people love it

The candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern is arguably one of the most common ones for a few reasons:

1. The pattern is easy to memorize – once you get the hang of one line, you don’t need to refer to the instructions anymore.
2. It’s easy to personalize and “theme” by choosing colors that work for a particular subject.
3. Progress is quick, satisfaction comes almost immediately as the stripes form.
4. They come together quite quickly, making them great for gifting, swapping, and summer camp or classroom projects.

Quick Pattern Snapshot (For Busy Readers)

Here’s a quick overview of the pattern that’s skimmable:

• Skill level: Beginner
• Time: About 30 to 90 minutes (depends on length and how fast you knot)
• Best string: Embroidery floss
• Common setup: 6 to 12 strands
• Core idea: Forward knot across each row to form the diagonal stripe

Material Choices for the Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

Did you know that there are different strings you can use to create friendship bracelets? Here’s a quick overview of the best ones for this candy stripe friendship bracelet.

Embroidery floss

This is my go-to for most friendship bracelets. It comes in so many colors, has a delicate look when knotted, and comes in large affordable variety pack. It’s the correct scale for a bracelet like this. The friction is good and the knots hold well.

Standard embroidery floss is definitely what I’d recommend when doing the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern with beginners.

Other string options

You don’t have to stick to embroidery floss! Whether you’re looking to upgrade, availability is an issue, or you’re just wanting a change, here are some other options:

• Pearl cotton size 8- this finer embroidery floss gives a much thinner, realer, upgraded look. It’ll be harder to work with and produce smaller results for the same effort, but is a great option for a bracelet that looks more like real jewelry.
• Crochet thread – This is also quite fine, but tends to be cheaper. Get these in big spools in more limited colors rather than big mixed package sizes.
• Nylon cord – This satin-effect cord looks playful on bracelets. It won’t hold its knot as well, so pull tight and glue the finishing knots shut.

Tools that make it easier

While all you really need for friendship bracelet making is the floss you’ll be using and any pair of scissors you have handy, these tools can make things go more smoothly:

• Good fabric-dedicated thread snippers will give you a cleaner cut (with less fraying) than ordinary scissors that are also used for paper.
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard – Bracelet makers come in two types: “secure your bracelet” knotters and “knot in your hand” knotters. I’m the second type. But if you prefer to have your bracelet secured while knotting, use a safety pin to pin it to your pants/skirt, a clipboard, tape on a desk, or a binder clip and folder.
• Measuring tape or a ruler – of course, to get accurate measurements, you’ll want measuring tools.

Optional extras

• Beads – I’ve shared more beaded friendship bracelets in the past, but if you want a little glam in this bracelet too, adding beads is a great way to do it.
• Glue – I like to glue my final knots. It just makes things more secure, protecting my hard work.
• Clasps – I love to add clasps to my friendship bracelets – it really upgrades the bracelet, and helps it last longer by making it easily removable.

Tips for designing and planning your candy stripe friendship bracelet

When you have a friendship bracelet as simple as the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern, you know that your design choices and plans will make the whole impact.

Choosing Colors That Look Good in Candy Stripe

Color choice will be your biggest deciding factor for how this looks.

Easy color formulas

Here are some basic color approaches I take when choosing colors for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

• 2-color bold stripe – this high contrast effect chooses two colors with contrast to repeat through the whole design.
• 3-color balanced stripe – a classic and playful approach to color choice with more transition between shades.
• Rainbow stripe – Choose ROYGBIV colors in any shade for a more child-friendly and playful look.
• Monochrome stripe – One of my favorite approaches with any bracelet is to use the same color family in different shades for a gorgeous ombre.
• Themed scheme – Since the bracelet is so simple, choose different colors to fit a theme. Think: yellow, white, and green for a daisy vibe, red, green, and gold for Christmas, school or team colors…

Pastels are great for Spring, brights for Sumer , deep shades for fall…

How to order your strands

When choosing the order of your strands, consider the color wheel. I find that it’s simply the harmonious choice – the way the eye is used to seeing and the brain is used to processing colors.

Sizing and Measuring (So It Fits the First Time)

You want it to fit – adding strings to a bracelet can be annoying – but you also don’t want to be wasteful. These tips for sizing and measuring your bracelet will allow you to get it right the first time.

How long to cut each strand

Since each wrist size is different, the general guideline is to start with your “wingspan” – that is, the size when you spread your arms. Take the end of the string with one hand, then, using the other, unspool it until your arms are stretched and the string is taught. Cut it there.

But there are so many variables at play! Someone who is very short but has a wide wrist may want to add a few inches. 45inches is a very safe zone for cutting, allowing space for knots and extras..

Here are some more factors that will affect.

How wide the bracelet will be

More strands equals a wider bracelet. If you’re using a lot of colors, you may want to add a few inches just to be safe. Keep in mind that you’re also using more strands, so you don’t need that much more.

The same strand count using tighter knots equals a slightly narrower look and will use less string.

Planning for ties

I do have a dedicated post on how to start and finish friendship bracelets, but keep in mind that it’ll affect the length of your starting strings too. If you’re using a knotted loop, you’ll need to choose one color to add a good 6-8 inches to.

What you need to know before making this candy stripe friendship bracelet

Let’s walk you through the details of this bracelet beyond materials.

Setting Up Your Strings for Success

How many strands to use

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is that there are no rules with how many strings you can use!

The general guidelines are:

• 6 strands for a slim bracelet
• 8 to 12 strands for a classic width (you can double strands for fewer colors

Keep in mind that your bracelet will be one knot narrower than your strand count.

If you go too wide, you may start having curling.

How to fold or not fold

So do you double strings and fold them over or do you use one of each?

The general guideline is: Fold in half for a loop start and don’t fold for a tie start. If you fold, you’ll need half the colors of your strand count, so keep that in mind when planning.

How to anchor your work

You don’t need to anchor your bracelet as you work, but if you prefer to, here are some ideas:

1. Tape it to a table
2. Clip to a clipboard
3. Pin to a pillow or jeans (great for travel)

I usually work in my hands, but I do have a clipboard with storage inside in general for friendship bracelet making.

The Only Knots You Need: the forward knot

One of the cool things about this bracelet is that you only need ONE knot – the forward knot. Here are some tips for beginners.

Forward knot basics

A knot is made of two hitches – so it’s really a “double knot” as we’d know it. In a forward knot, you’re knotting the left string around the right string twice in the same direction. The working string travels from one non-working string to the next horizontally. You work one string across each row until you reach the next, and then start again from the left.

Common knot mistakes and quick fixes

• Knots loosening – if your knots aren’t holding, it could be because the string is too slick. You can wet them and tighten again before you put your work down, but otherwise, just make sure you tighten them back before “locking them in” with the next knot.
• Stripe looks bumpy – your rows should come out smooth. If not, it’s probably that you’re using different tension to knot each one. Tension refers to how tightly you knot and is heavily affected by your energy levels and mood. Consider doing each row in a single sitting.
• Holes near the top – the first row can really be wonky. Your strings aren’t straight yet. Don’t worry about that. Do make sure to pull that first row tight, but regardless, that’s not your core bracelet, so leave it be – you’ll figure that out when you gain some more experience.

Mini practice tip

Muscle memory is your fingers literally knowing what to do because they are used to make a certain motion. It’s what I’m now using to touch type this tutorial, it’s how you make your coffee before actually having coffee (because we know that’s NOT your brain doing it).

Muscle memory can be valuable with friendship bracelet making, and a key to keeping your knots in order and your tension even.

If you want your first bracelet to come out fabulous, consider building muscle memory by practicing the knots on some scraps first.

Taking your candy stripe friendship bracelets to the next level

Ready to upgrade your bracelets? Here are some ways to do this.

Candy Stripe Pattern Explained (How the Stripes Form)

Knowing the “science” behind how the knots form patterns was the key component I used to come up with my own designs – including knotted name bracelets, this open-weave ombre chevron, and more.

The core pattern rule

One working string travels across the row, creating the stripe color. The first hitch creates the top of the stitch. The second secures the bottom. These two create a stitch on the front of the bracelet. Moving along from left to right, you’re knotting (two hitches) around each string, creating a single stitch on the front of each vertical string.

What changes row to row

After each row, the working string moves to the far right.

The next row starts again from the left with the new first string. This “resets” it again, making a stitch in the next color on each string.

How to keep your place

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is how easy it is to keep track. Keep strands flat and in order and you won’t lose your spot.

Pause at the end of each row, then gently comb strings with fingers to avoid knotting and confusing strings.

Variations and Cute Add-Ons

Ready to make this candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern your own? Here are some quick tips for doing that in a beginner-friendly way.

Stripe width changes

Repeat one color more often for thicker stripes. Meaning, you can do two blues in a row, three pinks, and one orange for a sunsetty-vibe.

Use fewer colors for a bolder look when doing this.

Texture options

Try thicker thread for a chunkier bracelet. You can even mix thick with thin threads (carefully as it’ll heavily affect the final result).

Mix matte and shiny floss for subtle contrast. You can consider a metallic blue and a flat blue to be two different colors for a classy “color on color” look.

Personal touches

Adding beads doesn’t mean you have to add beading throughout. You can add a small bead section near the center for a simple, classy look.

Choose a decorative toggle clasp to add some glam. And you can even use fabric paint for a bold finish, such as vertical color blocking.

How to Make a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

As always, here is the step-by-step process for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

Supplies Needed

• Embroidery floss (6 to 12 strands total, about 36-45 inches each color, 54 inches doubled over on the 6-strand bracelet is perfect.)
• Scissors
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Optional: bead(s), needle for bead threading, clasp set

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Instructions with Photos

1. Cut and organize your strands

Choose your colors and lay them in the exact order you want the stripes to repeat.

2. Anchor the top

Tie an overhand knot, then tape or clip it down so it won’t move, unless you feel comfortable working in your hands.

3. Separate the strings

Fan them out so they don’t overlap, keep them flat.

4. Make forward knots across the first row

Use the leftmost string as the working string. Tie a forward knot onto the next string. You’re tying left-to-right twice around the same string.

5. Finish the row and reset

Knot the rest of the row, using the working string to make a forward knot around each string. After you knot across, the working string ends on the far right.

Slide knots up gently to keep the row tight and clean (if needed).

6. Start the next row with the new leftmost string

Your new leftmost string becomes the new working string. Repeat the same forward knots across the row again. Keep your tension even so the edges stay straight and your bracelet looks neat.

7. Continue until it fits

Repeat this process, knotting the leftmost string around each string to its right. Check the length around your wrist before you finish.

Stop a little early if you plan on adding any decorative clasps or loop closures.

8. Finish the ends

You can finish so many different ways, but here are a few:

Option A: split your strings into 2 groups and make braided ties.

Option B: Just knot the ends.

Option C: Tie it off and add a ribbon crimp and clasp.

Troubleshooting (Fixes for the Most Common Problems)

Here are some quick fixes in bullet-point format in case you’re still having issues.

• Tension problems
  • Too tight (bracelet curls, strings feel stiff)
  • Too loose (gaps, uneven edges)
  • Fix: adjust tightening motion, keep knots snug but not yanked
• Edge problems
  • Wavy sides
  • Fix: keep the outer strings straight before each knot
• Twisting and curling
  • Why it happens (normal spiral effect plus tension)
    • Fix: flatten as you go, keep tension even, blocking post-crafting
• Wrong stripe order
  • Cause: strand order changed mid-project
  • Fix: stop and re-sort strands before continuing
• String issues
  • Fraying floss
  • Fix: cut a fresh end, avoid over-twisting, knot with smooth motion

FAQs

• How many strings do you need for a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Anywhere between 4-12+ works great, with 8-10 being the sweet spot.
• How long should I cut embroidery floss for a candy stripe bracelet?
  • “Wingspan” – or from fingertips-to-fingertips when arms are spread is great. Or just cut 45 inches.
• What’s the easiest way to start a candy stripe bracelet, loop start or ties?
  • The easiest way to begin is just to knot the ends together, but I do share other ways in this post. My favorite way to start is using a ribbon crimp and clasp.
• Why is my candy stripe bracelet curling or twisting?
  • It’s probably a tension issue, combined with the natural effect of repeated forward knots. Try “blocking” it but wetting it when you’re done and securing it flat.
• How do you keep the edges of a friendship bracelet straight?
  • By keeping your tension even. It IS best to complete the bracelet in one sitting as tension is affected by things like mood and energy levels, but you can also just be conscious of those affects.
• Can you make a candy stripe bracelet with yarn instead of embroidery floss?
  • Yes, but your knots won’t glide as smoothly or be as even. The result will be more childish and less sophisticated. If you need to use yarn for whatever reason, go for a finer yarn if you can, and use fewer colors.
• What knot do you use for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern?
  • The only knot you need to know is the forward knot.
• How do you change colors in a candy stripe bracelet?
  • The color change comes naturally by arranging different color strings. f
• How long does it take to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Depending on how many colors you’re using, your experience level, and other factors, it can take as quick as half an hour or as long as an hour and a half – or longer.
• What’s the difference between candy stripe and chevron bracelets?
  • Candy stripe bracelets has you knotting from left to right to form a single diagonal. Chevron has you knotting from right to left and left to right to meet in the center and form a V-shape.

Conclusion

Congrats! You’ve officially learned how to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet – and even how to adapt it and make it your own. I hope you’ve found this to be truly helpful, and even a replacement for an in-person workshop.

I recommend that you start simple: go for 2-3 colors and 6 strands, then gradually add more colors and strands. See how wide you can stretch it before deciding on your limits. Craft the basics, then add beads and other embellishments.

Bookmark this post, or print out the steps for when you’re ready to actually start knotting!

The post Foundations: Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Pattern – Step by Step Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A’s big brothers often have sleepovers, so when we were looking for a theme for A’s fifth birthday, a “sleepover” theme was the perfect choice! This unslumber party (or “sleepunder” party) was an absolute hit and such an adorable party.

The primary activity as well as party favor was sleep mask decorating with kids – we made this easy sleep mask craft that doubled as a party favor too.

This is a hit both as a party craft but also as something for kids to make at home, at sleepaway camp, or anytime this is a fit!

The kids absolutely loved it. It was very engaging, and they spent much longer on it than anticipated. In fact, they spent so long on it that I didn’t even have time to do all the planned activities!

And they wore them for the rest of the party, and some kids even wore them to school the next day (the kids ranged from 4-5 years old).

In this post, I’ll be sharing with you how to make this sleep mask craft (which isn’t much of a tutorial – it’s self explanatory) but also my tips for decorating them with kids and setting it up as a party activity.

Tips for sleep mask decorating with kids at a party

This makes such a good party activity because:

• There’s no dry time
• It’s open-ended – kids can really be creative
• It’s special – it requires specific supplies that are more affordable in bulk and isn’t just another thing they can make at home any time
• It doubles as a part favor.

Activity Setup and Guidelines

I decided to get a stick-on varsity initial to make it special and personalized for each kid. Make sure to get enough letters for each participant (I needed two packs of initials). You can purchase letters individually.

I also got a big pack of stick-on gems. These stuck really well and did make for a semi-permanent application (kids can pull them off but they won’t come off on their own.)

When the kids arrived, they each had a plate set up with their name, a mask, and the initial on it. The gem sheets were scattered across the table. Be generous with your gems – I regret not getting two packs. They’re great for other crafts too and inexpensive, and that way kids have more choices.

I find that having an open-ended (unguided) craftivity set up for kids right when they arrive is a great way to warm them up for an at-home birthday party. It helps them jump right in when they’re stil feeling a little shy and makes them excited about what’s to come.

Since everything is effectively a sticker, the kids just jumped right in and got VERY busy. They did not need any instruction at all. They were hypnotized by the activity, dedicating themselves fully to blinging their sleep mask crafts.

Just a quick seating tip: I seated the two friends who weren’t in her class next to A and the classmates together, just to make things less intimidating for those two.

Make sure to have a sample on the table for kids to follow (the upside down w “M” one you see was my sample).

Sending them home as favors

Especially when the activity doubles as a favor like by this Dog Man party – but even when it’s just a craft-heavy party – I like to have bags prepared in advance with the kids’ names.

That way, as they complete their crafts, I can simply slip it into their bags. Most of the kids wore their masks after but I did get bags for them regardless. The masks came in bags, but most of them tore when I took the masks out so I recommend getting separate bags.

Each bag was prepared with this laser heart keychain, and two scrunchies, and had plenty of space for the sleep mask crafts and the bookmarks they created (which I’ll share at a later date).

When they finished decorating the masks, they went to the reading corner (again, I’m going to share all the details in a later post) and I collected any masks that were left behind to put in their labeled bags.

The sticker was a Canva design (the same one I used for the invitation), printed on sticker paper.

You can see that the favor bags and labels were really inexpensive. While the sleep mask craft was a bit pricier, it was balanced out by savings in other areas, AND it was both the primary entertainment and the primary favor.

More tips for making a sleep mask craft

Whether you’re crafting this at home, at camp, at a party, or for any other occasion, I figured I’d share some tips and tricks for making this.

Embellishments and ideas

The only embellishments we provided were:

• An adhesive initial per person
• Sheets of adhesive gems.

That WAS enough, but if you’d like to offer more, here are some more ideas. Some are suitable for parties, and some should only be done in a one-on-one crafting scenario.

• Adhesive shapes – many initial sets come with more chenille style stick-ons. Those can be fun too, but you’ll still only want 1-2 per person.
• Adhesive patches – again, unless doing this at home, stick with adhesive, but you can get loads of embroidered patches for a cool look.
• Glue-on gems – you can do larger glue-ons but again, you’ll need more supervision with this and it’s best for when you’re just crafting at home.
• Buttons – bigger kids can sew on fun buttons.
• Paint markers or fabric markers – kids can color and decorate their sleep masks. Just test the markers in advance of the activity.

Favorite occasions and themes to make this craft

IF you spotted this craft not for a specific occasion, but just while browsing, here are some fun times to make them, besides for an unslumber party!

• An actual sleepover party
• A sleepover with one or two friends – you can get more detailed if you have an adult handling the hot glue gun.
• A take-home activity at a larger gathering, such as a school event
• This is so cool as a get-to-know-you icebreaker at sleepover camp
• Or if you’re having an overnight for day camp
• It’s cool for pajama day at any school or camp

How to assemble this sleep mask craft

The assembly process is very basic, but you’ll enjoy seeing the kids actually putting theirs together!

Pay close attention to my guidelines for the materials to use.

You’ll need

• Sleep masks: good quality satin ones make a big difference, especially if it’s a party favor. HOWEVER, the ones I got were adult sizes and too big for preschoolers. I did run them through the sewing machine for a second to take in the elastic at the back. You can also get adjustable ones.
• Gems: get enough gems in a good mix of shapes to go around – at least 2-3 sheets per kid. You’ll have extras for another project, but you want the kids to be able to choose.
• Initials: one for each kid. Double names still got one.

Tutorial

1. Stick the initial in the center of the mask.

2. Decorate with gems.

That is all! No dry time, just stickers. The kids had a blast! I hope you enjoyed!

The post Sleep Mask Craft – Decorating with Kids appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I made these when I first got my Clawlab tufting kit and discovered the hard way that you can’t really reuse all the extra primary cloth that sits around the main project. So when doing smaller project like the tufted initials I made in my Clawlab review, any extra fabric needs to be reused around the main fabric, befor removing it from the frame.

These DIY mini tufted hearts are perfect for using up that extra material. It can be fun to make, and even to finish off however well you want to do that.

I had these in mind at first as a party favor for my daughter’s birthday party. We did a sleepover themed party for her, and I thought the “rug” was kind of cool for that. But in the end I went with wooden heart keychains.

These are really fabulous for Valentine’s Day too as little Valentines to hand out, as filler sales items for craft fairs, and as small gifts.

Top Tips for making DIY Mini Tufted Hearts for Keychains

Here are some steps and strategies for making these keychains. Read through for successful crafting right off the bat.

Tips for making this using scraps around a project

Since this was born as a “primary cloth scraps” project, these tips focus on reusing those scraps.

• Don’t remove your primary cloth from your frame after you complete making your project. Leave it in place and work around the project.

• Leave a couple of inches of space around all the borders of your main project – and an extra inch around the hearts (each heart). I made mine too close on this one and learned that the hard way. You need some excess to cut it out and fold it over.
• Working on smaller pieces can actually be harder. Do this once you’ve practiced.

Of course, you don’t need to make this as scraps, but these rules generally apply even if you’re setting up a new project to make these mini tufted hearts.

Do you need a tufting gun to do this?

This tutorial DOES use a beginner-friendly and portable tufting gun setup. You can try similar methods using hook rug for a more hands-on and intricate craft.

Finishing the back

My Clawlab kit came with special rug backing fabric. I chose not to use this. I wanted mine to feel soft on the other side as well.

I finished mine off with soft felt. I definitely recommend using something like felt if you’re making keychains. For coasters, the backing fabric is perfect. I’ll share more variations below but definitely let me know in the comments if you have more ideas for finishing off mini tufted hearts.

Tips for success

I’ve shared some tips specific to using the border, but general tufting skills will help you go a long way here.

• Tension is everything. After you’ve worked a whole project on your cloth, you may want to re-adjust the tension before you start using your scraps.
• Work on a slow speed. Keep in mind that the smaller your design is, the more curves, and the harder it’ll be. While I always work slow for outlining, I often speed it up for filling. For these mini tufted hearts, I did not do that – I kept things relatively slow.
• Keep your tufting gun straight – don’t tilt it up or down.
• Since these are looked at right up close, you definitely want to keep your stitches tight. If you look closely at my images, you’ll find that a lot of them (especially the earlier ones that I made) have white gaps where the primary fabric shows through. To avoid this, make your lines of stitches tight.

Variations on these mini tufted hearts

There are so many different way to craft these. Here are just a snippet of the ideas I have. Definitely drop a comment if you have any others you’d like to share with the crafting community!

Not just keychains

I made these as keychains with little kids in mind. Here are a few more ideas:

• Glue magnets (keep these FAR away from children) to the back and then cover with felt for super cool “invisible” locker magnets.
• Make them in a 4 inch size and shave them flat to use them as coasters. Use carpet backing to make them non-slip.
• Make two identical / mirrored ones ones (you an cut a template from cardboard to trace – and mirror it). Glue them back to back or stuff them to make a cute little plushie.

Adding a little detail

I trimmed some in pink and filled them with purple since I ran out of pink yarn. They look so cute but they weren’t filled in enough close to the border. Adding a border trim is a cute idea if you do it right.

You can also add cute little features like button eyes, googly eyes, stitched or tufted mouths, patterns/stripes, and more!

I trimmed mine using a pair of fabric and detail scissors. If you have a carpet trimmer, go ahead and use that. On such a small project, the easiest way to really get that detail in and carve it is with scissors – by hand! Sit, relax, turn on music or a podcast and take your time with it.

How to make DIY mini tufted hearts

What you’ll need

• A tufting gun and frame
• Primary cloth
• A permanent marker
• 8 ply tufting yarn
• Latex carpet adhesive
• A spreader tool for applying your adhesive (I used a scrap of cardboard which worked for a small craft like this one)
• Good fabric and detail scissors
• Hot glue gun – read my recommendations for the best glue guns for crafts here.
• Felt
• Keychain – split ring, plus screw eye, and pliers to connect it.

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Directions

1. Start by outlining your hearts. Make sure to leave generous space both for finishing your hearts and your main project.

2. Carefully tuft the outline of your hearts.

3. And fill them in! Work slowly and make your stitches tight to avoid gaps.

Some of these are too close together – leave space on your hearts.

4. Pull out any long hanging starting/finishing strings. Carefully remove the tufting cloth and trim it. Apply generous glue to the back of your hearts.

Apply your glue in a thick, even layer.

5. Allow your glue to dry according to package directions. It should be dry but tacky. Separate your hearts leaving 1/2 inch to an inch border.

6. Cut notches around the excess fabric. Cut a notch at the bottom peak and the top dip of the heart. Cut small notches around the curves.

7. Work very carefully with your hot glue gun here – you may want to put on heat resistant gloves. Carefully fold over and glue down the border fabric.

8. It’s time to clean up your mini tufted hearts! I started by defining the outline shapes, and trimming any unevenness from the front.

9. Then, for those with a border, I pushed back the border color and trimmed around the inside color to define it.

10. When you’re happy with it, apply some glue to the part where you want the keychain, and glue a screw eye so that the eye sticks up and the screw is on the heart. The screw part provides resistance vs. using a regular eye pin.

11. Then, hot glue your heart to a felt backing. Put your glue right on the border of the tufting fabric so you completely cover it.

12. Fold back the felt and trim around the heart.

13. Attach the keychain hardware to the screw eye. Your DIY mini tufted hearts are complete!

What will you be making with your DIY mini tufted hearts? Comment below!

The post DIY Mini Tufted Hearts appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Thinking about trying rug tufting at home? This Clawlab review covers the tufting gun, the aluminum frame, and a real project making tufted initials for my kids. When you’re done, check out my LaserPecker LX2 review too! The kit was gifted, and this post includes affiliate links.

In this Clawlab review, you’ll get a clear understanding of my take on setup, ease of use, and what to expect as a first-time tufter.

Some highlights of what you’ll see below include:

• Fast tension on the frame
• A one-hand gun that feels like a lot like a glue gun
• Smooth speed control
• Critiques of a few missing extras – like a yarn mount and a shearing tool.

If you want a compact setup that stores easily, this is a strong option for small rugs and wall decor. I’ll also share tips that saved my second take, like using latex carpet adhesive instead of thin craft glue.

First, you may prefer to watch the in-depth video review to see it in action:

What you get in the Clawlab tufting kit, and what you still need

The Clawlab tufting kit comes ready for a first project, and the differenet tools feel thought out. The frame focuses on tension and portability. The gun focuses on handling and – portability too! It all fits into a streamlined workflow you can pack away and use even if you do not have a dedicated craft room.

In the box: gun, frame, cloth, backing, yarn

• Tufting gun with USB-C to USB-C cable, a power brick, and an EU adapter
• Sturdy aluminum frame with side clamps and a rolling feed bar
• Starter piece of monks cloth (primary cloth), about 36 inches wide
• A piece of carpet backing
• 10 smallish balls of 8‑ply tufting yarn
• Several wire threaders
• A hard case for compact storage

The power cable is long, which helps if your outlet is not close by. The case keeps everything together between sessions.

If you want just one of the elements, you can get them individually – or as a set. Get the Clawlab Tufting Gun, the Clawlab Frame, or the all-in-one Clawlab Kit.

Supplies you’ll probably want to get in addition

• Latex carpet adhesive, not thin craft glue. I tried Mod Podge first. It was too runny, soaked in, and cost more per ounce than proper adhesive. The right glue makes a big difference. I used this latex carpet adhesive.
• Extra monks cloth. The Clawlab cloth gripped better than the generic roll I tried. If you can, get the tufting cloth from Clawlab.
• Backing materials: felt, or felt plus cardboard for stiffness – this is optional. The kit comes with rug backing cloth, but if making something like wall art or other small projects, felt is a great option.
• Fabric scissors, like these sharp fabric scissors
• Rug shaver or shears for finishing
• Markers for sketching your design
• Optional: a projector for transferring and tracing designs.

The included 8‑ply yarn are the ideal weight for your tufting, but it really just comes with a practice amount, so I recommend stocking up on much more yarns.

Thinner acrylic yarns from your stash can work if you double thread them. You’ll use more yardage when you do that.

Who it’s good for

This kit is a great fit for beginners, casual makers, and sellers of small rugs or wall art who want fast setup at home. It is great for small spaces since the gun packs into a case and the frame stores flat. It is less ideal if you need very wide pieces in one pass or want built-in yarn management. You can go long, but you’re limited to the width of the kit. It is good for pros too who don’t need anything wider than the existing width.

Clawlab Frame review: fast tension, solid clamps, easy storage

The frame is where setup stress usually lives when starting out with tufting. Clawlab’s easy to use frame eliminates that. It clamps to a surface, feeds the fabric with a rolling bar, and locks tension with simple knobs. That means you can get the fabric tension tight without wrestling nails or re-stretching again and again.

Setup and clamping in minutes

The side clamps grab a counter or table with a decent lip. Rubberized feet help the frame stand and prevent sliding.

Once it is clamped, it stays put under pressure – even if you’re pushing your gun into it. I mounted it on my kitchen counter and was tufting within minutes. If your desk has drawers right below the work surface, pick a surface with a few inches of depth so the clamps can have what to hold onto.

Tension knobs and rolling feed explained

The top bar has hook and loop to grab the monks cloth.

You roll the cloth onto the bar, seat the rod in the side notches, then feed it down through the upper and then lower bar slots. Pull about 7 cm of cloth through before you lock it. That little bit matters.

After that, crank the lower knob, make sure it clicks into place. Attach the fabric to the side bars and then crank the top knob. Keep turning until the fabric sounds tight when you tap it. You want that crisp, drum-like feel. It’ll take you a try or to to totally get the hang of it but once you do, it’ll be super easy.

Portability and build quality

The frame is thick aluminum, so it is sturdy but still light enough to carry with one hand. I could move it along with the gun in the other hand without a problem. It stores flat and slides behind a shelf or into a closet. If you do not have a craft room, that portability matters.

Limits to know before you buy

You need full-width cloth to get side-to-side tension, and you will use a few extra inches to lock it in. The width is fixed, not modular. If you plan to do very wide pieces in one pass, that is a constraint. The cloth edges can fuzz a bit when you clamp and release. That is normal for tufting and not a flaw in the frame.

Clawlab Tufting Gun review: one-hand control, quiet power, smooth results

The gun changed the way tufting felt in my hands. Most guns are bulky and two-handed. This one grips like a full-size glue gun, which makes it less intimidating. It is still weighty and solid, just simpler to hold and steer.

Ergonomics and handling

The plastic shell encloses the metal mechanism, so there are fewer exposed parts to catch on things. The one-hand grip is friendly if you deal with wrist or elbow issues. Tendinitis keeps me from lots of crafting experiences, and Clawlab makes tufting still be accessible for me.

Keeping the barrel straight does have a short learning curve, since two-hand models force that alignment. After a few practice passes, straight lines felt natural.

Speed dial and noise

A color bar on the back shifts from green to blue as you twist the dial. There is no numeric readout, but you can count clicks if you care. I outlined on a slower speed, then bumped it up for fills to get tight, even loops. The motor is quiet for a tufting tool. It gets louder when it hits the cloth, but it is still within pleasant ranges for heavy crafting.

Threading, yarn, and tension tips

You thread the gun with the included wire tool. Keep the gun off while threading – I kept forgetting to turn mine off but it seemed to power off on its own.

Leave plenty of yarn slack so the gun can feed smoothly. Before gluing, you’ll want to just yank out those hanging starting threads. 8‑ply tufting yarn fed best. If you use thinner acrylic, double thread it so the pile is full. There is a built-in tension adjuster on the gun, but beginners can leave it alone at first.

Real use: curves, outlines, and jams

Outlines were clean, and the gun handled tight curves nicely. A lighter one-hand body makes it easier to rotate your wrist around a bend without moving your whole body. I had no jams AT ALL while testing. Every hiccup came down to yarn issues, like a knot in the skein or not enough slack. I was absolutely amazed at how smooth the experience was for a beginner.

The hard case keeps the gun, threaders, and cable together so nothing wanders off between sessions.

Hands-on test: tufted kids initials, step by step

For the test project, I made letters for my kids to hang on their walls. I finished four letters total. The A used peach, purple, and orange blocks. The J used orange, green, and yellow to match my redhead’s vibe. I backed the letters with felt and used cardboard in some for extra stiffness.

Plan and sketch mirrored letters

Sketch letters on the back side of the cloth. The loops face the opposite side, so mirror anything directional, like J. Use a ruler for clean block shapes, or use a projector if you want perfect curves and angles. Mark color zones before you start if you plan a color-blocked letter – if you’d like to be very intentional with it. I just winged it.

Outline slow, fill fast for clean loops

Keep the barrel straight and move forward steadily. Do not tilt. Outline first on a low speed to stay on the line. Then fill on a higher speed in tight rows. Keep the rows close for a denser pile. Always keep a lot of the yarn pulled loose so it doesn’t resist the tufting and fail.

Glue, back, and trim for a clean finish

Use latex carpet adhesive and spread it with a scraper or a piece of cardboard. Let it dry fully before trimming. For wall decor, felt makes a neat back, and a layer of cardboard helps the piece stay flat. Trim strays with scissors. A rug shaver will clean the surface faster and crisper than scissors alone.

Results, timing, and cleanup

Each 10 to 11 inch tall letter took about 15 minutes to tuft once set up. Expect yarn fluff on the floor. That is normal. You will use more cloth than the letter size to lock in tension across the frame. That means that you might have some waste. I tufted a small project between the letters (which I’ll share with you) to avoid waste.

The final letters looked bright and bold. After glue and a quick trim, they were ready for hanging.

Conclusion

If you want an easy entry into tufting, this Clawlab review points to a smart pick for a beginner tufting gun and frame.

Pros include fast tension on the frame, portable build, one-hand lightweight gun, quiet motor, smooth results, tidy case. Cons include a fixed frame width (standard for frames but I’d love to see them make it adjustable), no yarn mount, and no shearing tool in the kit.

For first rugs, small wall pieces, and custom initials, it hits the sweet spot of simplicity and control. Add latex carpet adhesive, extra monks cloth, felt backing, and a rug shaver to your list. Ready to try it? Check the current price for the Clawlab Kit, or choose the Clawlab Frame or Clawlab Tufting Gun on their own.

The post Clawlab Review: Tufting Gun and Frame for Beginners (With Kids’ Initials Project) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I’ve been wanting to try crafts that turn plastic lids into sort of buttons, and I figured that winter is the perfect time to give this a try with a plastic lid snowman craft!

This is such a fun and forgiving craft. It’s open-ended, leaving room for creativity. It’s really easy – no special skills required. It doesn’t require you to be precise or get it perfectly right. There are no measurements, there is no template because there is no need for one!

Tips for crafting a plastic lid snowman

Since this is so open-ended, I figured I’d share some general tips for crafting plastic lid snowmen, and some fun ideas I had in mind for them.

Dressing it up

One of the most creative parts of this is dressing up your plastic lid snowmen. This makes it actually a really fun workshop activity, since you can teach the basic process of creating the plastic lid snowmen, and then offer various odds n ends to decorate it.

I created two of these to show you two different ways you can finish them off.

On one, I added earmuffs using faux fur scraps. I used felt to connect the two muffs, but you can also use a chenille stem. That might look cooler as you can allow it to stand up a bit.

For the nose, I used a flat bit of felt but you can also see how I did the nose on my snowman peg dolls for another way to craft a carrot nose from felt.

On the other one, I decided to make a beanie using a scrap of wintry fabric. I cut it into shape and rolled up the bottom, gluing it in place for the turned up rim. Pom poms make this project shine. The carrot nose is a “front view” – I used a tiny orang pom pom for that.

I definitely recommend getting creative with these and dressing them up as you see fit. You can also use a swatch of fabric for the scarf and beads or buttons fly for the buttons. I didn’t add a face (I wanted to keep it simple) but you can make that by gluing on small beads or drawing it on with a fabric marker. You may want to test the marker for bleed first.

Finishing it off

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen – and these are just a few.

Turn it into an ornament – glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.

Use it as a plush figure – I honestly had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini “pet snowman”.

Add it to a keychain – While it’s pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. I’d probably add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.

Put it in a winter sensory bin – I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

What you need to craft a plastic lid snowman

• Two sizes of plastic lids – I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonyfield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it – assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

How to make a plastic lid snowman

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you’d like (do this if it’ll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

I hope you enjoyed making a bottle cap snowman! What’ll you be using yours for? Comment below!

How to Make a Bottle Cap Snowman

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Beginner

Estimated Cost: $1

This adorable little bottle cap snowman is such a fun recycled craft to make for winter! Turn these into ornaments or little dolls for pretend play. They're easier than they look.

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Materials

• Two sizes of plastic lids - I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonefield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• White Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it - assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon - 1/4 inch grossgrain ribbon is perfect - or get bundled scraps for projects like these, like I do!
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

Instructions

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you'd like (do this if it'll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

Notes

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen - and these are just a few.

• Turn it into an ornament - glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.
• Use it as a plush figure - I had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini "pet snowman".
• Add it to a keychain - While it's pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. Add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.
• Put it in a winter sensory bin - I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Plastic Lid Snowman – Ornaments or Little Dolls! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I recently realized that I majorly neglect creating winter crafts. With this season so busy, and a lot of my energies directed into creating beautifully curated gift guides, I find that the season goes by too fast.

But I’m working on switching that this year, with a few new winter-focused ideas and today, I’m starting with snowman peg dolls that have been on my “to craft” list for years!

Ways to use snowman peg dolls

As with any peg doll, these snowman peg dolls are so versatile! I crafted these for use in with this 2-ingredient fake snow but you can make them for really just about any winter purpose. Here are some ideas:

• Peg dolls make great pretend play toys! You can use it with anything that comes with small figures, such as Little People play or small dollhouses. Bring these out to mix things up for winter-themed play.
• In sensory bins. Use this to play with Instant Snow or in any winter-themed sensory bin.
• Use these as a focal point in a DIY snow globe
• These make fabulous embellishments in any winter scene – a diorama, a Christmas village…
• Glue on a ribbon to turn them into adorable little ornament

There’s really so many things you can do with this – whether you’re popping it into the toy bin, or making it for something specific!

Tips for crafting snowman peg dolls

This is a pretty straightforward craft that can be crafted different ways, but here are some tips for getting it right the first time.

Choosing your peg dolls

Peg dolls come in many different shapes, sizes, and styles. You can actually get snowman shaped ones, but I wanted to add more texture to mine so I wanted it without the hat.

I got a multi-pack so that I have options for different crafts, and chose a larger sized one with a straight body as the closest match.

I like to get my peg dolls from Woodpeckers because I know they’ll be high quality, and support a New Jersey based small business. You can get them on Amazon, or directly from them. If purchasing direct, use code MOMSANDCRAFTERS for 5% off your purchase.

Dressing it up

To dress up your snowman peg dolls, pull out those fabric and felt scraps! You can also use ribbons, buttons, beads, and of course, markers.

Try using winter textured fabric, such as tweed, felt, fleece, and corduroy for your accessories.

On one, I made a beanie hat. I did this using scrap tweed that I bought eons ago to make a skirt. I made a scarf using soft corduroy I had in my scrap bin.

On the other, I made a felt top hat. I perched it at an angle for a little character. I also cut off the finished edge of a fleece blanket (that I purchased to cut apart for crafts) for the scarf on this one.

I used finished/crafting wooden branches for the arms, but you can also pick twigs from outside. I used wooden beads for the buttons, but of course, if you have small buttons, use those. And the nose was hacked from a small bit of rolled up/folded felt.

I drew on the face using a paint marker (this set is double sided, with the fine side perfect for projects like this).

Variations and more ideas

This is one of those crafts that you can make a zillion times and each time it comes out different! Here are a few ideas:

• As I mentioned, use twigs from outdoors for the arms
• Again, you can use buttons for the buttons.
• Pull out the pom poms! They are fabulous for winter crafts. Tiny ones can be used as buttons, and you can use one on the hat.
• Try making the hat from bits of an old knit sweater
• The scarf can also be made using ribbon.
• Want to make earmuffs instead of a hat? Cut two small circles of felt and connect them with a thin pipe cleaner.
• Use glitter paint as a top coat to add some snow-inspired shimmer.

The possibilities for these snow man peg dolls are really endless, so pull out all your craft stuff and get creative!

How to craft snowman peg dolls

Watch the video, or scroll down for the step by step tutorial.

Materials

• Peg dolls (see notes above)
• White acrylic craft paint
• Paint Brush
• Scraps of felt and fabric
• Odds and ends like buttons, beads, pom poms, twigs
• Detail scissors
• Hot glue gun – you can check out my rundown of the best glue guns for crafts. I used this one for this craft.
• Paint markers

Process

1. Paint your peg doll white. One layer will likely give it a stained look. A second layer will look opaque. Dry time should be pretty quick.

Making the beanie hat

2. To make the beanie, cut a small rectangle. It should be slightly wider than the circumference and higher than you want it to be.

3. Roll it up twice from the bottom, keeping it as small as you can, hot gluing in place.

4. Glue one end to the other to form a circle that will be the circumference of your hat.

5. Sew a running stitch around the hat at the point where you want the hat height to end. Pull it tight.

6. Wrap thread around that point to make it as tight as you can.

7. A few stitches back and forth through the hat should finalize the shape of the beanie.

8. You can either trim off the extra and glue on a pom pom. Or, cut fringe into the extra instead to make a pom pom.

To make a top hat

9. Cut a felt circle the size you want the brim of the hat to be – a bit wider than the head of the peg doll. Cut a felt strip the height you want the hat to be. The length should be big enough to form a circle smaller than the brim, with a bit extra for gluing.

10. Glue the strip, connecting both sides to form the main part of the tophat. Using hot glue sparingly, glue the ring on the center of the felt circle.

11. Measure the circumference of the ring and use that to create the top of the tophat. Again, using hot glue sparingly, glue that on top.

Finishing it up

12. Glue the hats on the peg dolls.

13. Create carrot noses by rolling up a tiny scrap of felt, gluing it in place. Use detail scissors to cut it into shape.

13. Glue it in the center of the face.

14. Glue on 2-3 beads as buttons.

15. Draw on button eyes and mouth. I didn’t use glue-ons for this because it’s so small and I felt it would be excessive.

16. Cut a strip of fabric for a scarf. Cut a bit of fringe on the side if you want.

17. Wrap it around the neck of the peg doll. Tie it or glue it in place.

18. Glue on sticks for arms.

Your snowman peg dolls are complete! Which peg dolls would you like to see next? Comment below!

The post Snowman Peg Dolls appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

The spiral friendship bracelet – often referred to as the “Chinese staircase” bracelet, is a foundational friendship bracelet that is one of the first tools to learning how to make a friendship bracelet that everyone should try!

It’s so easy and helps new crafters practice the very basic knots that will eventually be used to make insanely cool bracelets – including these name bracelets, diamond friendship bracelets, zig zag bracelets, and more!

And while all of the above are flat bracelets, this one is round. But unlike other round friendship bracelets (such as wrapped friendship bracelets and kumihimo bracelets), these spiral friendship bracelets actually use the same knots you’ll eventually be using to make elaborate flat bracelets.

Before we teach you how to craft your own, here are some tips for crafting success!

Tips for making spiral friendship bracelets

Practicing your knot

One of the cool things about making spiral friendship bracelets is that it’s a practice knot! It comes together quickly and so you don’t really need to practice making your knot in advance. If you don’t love the first bracelet, consider it a learning mistake and move onto the second.

The knot used here is a forward knot, that you simply repeat and repeat and repeat – and the spot where the string “moves down” to the next level is where your spiral is forming.

When you make a knot, tension matters. That is, how tight you pull it. Usually this can be influenced by things like mood, fatigue level, comfort or sitting position. For that reason, you’ll likely get the most naturally consistent results doing this in one sitting.

Again, it’s a quick bracelet, so you can. But you can also just keep your eyes open and make sure you’re pulling your string equally tight each time.

Choosing your colors

This bracelet, like many, is influenced heavily by which colors you choose. While for many bracelets I like to choose different shades of the same color, for spiral friendship bracelets, I typically like a little contrast.

Tip: choose your colors from a color wheel! Stick to a color scheme – such as analogous colors or complementary colors.

Another idea is just to spread out your strings and see what looks good, but focus on colors that have a similar tone. For example, all pastels, all muted colors, etc.

Crafting with it!!!

One of the coolest thing about spiral friendship bracelets is that once you master it, you don’t need to stick to bracelets! I mean, you can literally make knots around something. I’ve seen people do it around phone cords, and I have a tutorial for doing this around earring hoops in my book How to Make Jewelry Out of Anything.

You can try it around bangles, with thicker yarn around backpack handles, and even around a thin hairband!

How to make spiral friendship bracelets

You’ll need

• Embroidery floss – about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount – you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you’re adding) but don’t do less – it’ll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard – some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Knots used

The only knot you’re using here is a forward knot – that is where you knot a strand from left to right around the next one – or group of threads.

We’ll show you how to do it!

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by step instructions

1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you’re doubling colors)

2. If you’re doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

3. Choose which color you’re starting with and pull it to the left of your project.

4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left – over the top of your starting strand.

5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.

6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn’t be on top of each other. After a few knots, you’ll begin to see the spiral forming.

7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.

8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.

9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.

10. Repeat with your third color!

11. If you’re using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don’t run out.

12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!

13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.

14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.

15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.

16. Repeat on the other side and trim.

Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete!

You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands… You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make spiral friendship bracelets! Comment if you have any questions, or with which bracelet you want me to show you next.

How to Make a Chinese Staircase Friendship bracelet

This spiral friendship bracelet tutorial - otherwise known as the Chinese Staircase is the first bracelet I recommend that every new crafter make! It's easy, satisfying, and builds muscle memory for foundational knots

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Materials

• Embroidery floss - about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount - you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you're adding) but don't do less - it'll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard - some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Tools

Instructions

1. 1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you're doubling colors)
2. If you're doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.
3. Choose which color you're starting with and pull it to the left of your project.
4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left - over the top of your starting strand.
5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.
6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn't be on top of each other. After a few knots, you'll begin to see the spiral forming.
7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.
8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.
9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.
10. Repeat with your third color!
11. If you're using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don't run out.
12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!
13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.
14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.
15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.
16. Repeat on the other side and trim. Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete! You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands... You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Spiral Friendship Bracelets – the first bracelet you should make! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This buffalo plaid bracelet pattern is not your childhood friendship bracelet! It’s sophisticated, modern, and oh, so cool – the perfect fall or winter jewelry accessory!

The idea popped into my head the other day: I MUST figure out how to make a buffalo plaid friendship bracelet! And so started a month long process.

First, despite my huge stash of strings, I simply did not have the correct colors.

Then, the original process didn’t quite cut it. And then finally, I LOST one of the bracelets I had worked on for a long time!!

I’m really excited to finally sharing with you this buffalo plaid friendship bracelet pattern.

This bracelet uses an alpha pattern with a running string that is used in every single knot and runs from left to right and then to left again.

It’s not an easy bracelet really, since you’re working with long strings and constantly switching off, however the concept is very simple with a basic set of rules that’s easy to remember.

One of my favorite features of this buffalo plaid bracelet is that it looks fabulous on both sides!! The back takes on a basket-weave look and is quite beautiful as well.

The textile look of this bracelet is so much more sophisticated than your typical friendship bracelet and makes it a fabulous fall or winter accessory.

I tried making it in three color schemes that are relatively neutral: tans, muted reds, and olive greens. You can also make it in very seasonal colors: bright red or green, pink, blue.

As long as you choose the correct color combo, it’ll look fab – and I offer tips on that below, so you’ll get it right!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

While I do outline step by step instructions below, I want to summarize the process for those of you who might be more skilled. I also share some of the crafting tips and decision making process that makes a big difference to the final bracelet here, so definitely skim it, even if you’re not a pro!

Choosing your colors

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

Just like when I created a 3d zig zag friendship bracelet and a 3D diamond friendship bracelet pattern, the color creates the effect. This might not be 3D but choosing the right colors is what makes it look like a Buffalo plaid bracelet.

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

If you look at classic Buffalo plaid, it often has a very bright “light”. That’s okay, as long as you can get a good medium for it. I purchased my strings individually in-store (at Michaels) from open-stock embroidery floss for this bracelet. This way, I could lay it out and choose.

DMC Colors I used (dark to light):

• Green bracelet: 500, 501, 504
• Red bracelet: 3371, 3830, 3779
• Brown bracelet: 3021, 3790, 3033

The Basic Rules to Making a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

To make a buffalo plaid bracelet, you do NOT need to sit with an actual pattern in front of you. Remember to follow these basic rules:

• You’re creating 4×4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot – either it’s being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium – it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you’re up to – a light row or a dark row.

And that pretty much sums up the rules of making a buffalo plaid bracelet! See? No pattern needed! But I’ll give you one anyway.

Buffalo Plaid Bracelet Pattern Summary (for pros)

This is for those of you who just want the process in brief, without step-by-step photos. There is a printable version at the end of this post.

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Starting and finishing your bracelet

When it comes to classier friendship bracelets like this one, I like to give it that kind of respect. Therefore, I used the ribbon crimp method to finish this off.

This not only gives it a polished “real jewelry” touch, but it also allows it to be taken on and off more easily. It also makes it fabulous to stack with real jewelry. Simply make sure to get the correct size crimp. This will depend in part on the size of your string and the tension of your knots. I purchased this package which has a few sizes that are close enough that you have what to choose from.

There are more traditional ways to finish this off – you can read how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

Step by Step Tutorial for a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Supplies needed

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Thread snips
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Clasp and jump rings

Starting your bracelet

1. Cut your string as follows: Light: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Dark: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Medium: 13 feet. It can be hard to work with a very long string, so you may want to wrap it around a scrap of cardboard with wider ends, to make a mini skein.

2. Arrange your strings as follows: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Tape them down with a bit of tape. I found it best to start this bracelet flat and NOT with a knot. It’s just clearer. To do this, I started it taped in order (closer than pictured) to a surface. after one round, I was able to remove it from the surface. You can also simply lay it on a flat piece of tape in order, and place another piece of tape on top, if you prefer not to work attached to a surface.

Knotting your bracelet

To make this, you NEED to know how to make forward and backward knots. It’s not really a total beginner bracelet (although it’s not very complex.) If you don’t yet, first learn how to make a friendship bracelet and then come back to this tutorial.

Rule: you’re always moving your ONE medium colored string along to the next knot.

Row 1:

Work this row from left to right, moving your medium string along to the next position with each knot.

1. Start with your left (medium) string. Forward knot it around the string to its right (light) and pull tight.

2. Forward knot the same (medium) string around the next light to the right.

3. Backwards knot the next string to the right of your medium (dark) around the medium. The next string to the right will again be a dark. Backward knot it around your medium.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the next four strings. Forward knot your medium around the light to its right. You’ll have another light to its right so forward knot medium around it. The next string is a dark so backward knot the dark around the medium and repeat with the next dark.

Row 2:

Row two needs to look exactly like row one, only you’re working from right to left since your medium string is at the right.

5. Forward knot the dark to the left of your medium around your medium. This IS the string you just worked with.

6. Forward knot the next dark around medium.

7. Backward knot medium around the right to the left of it. Repeat with the next light that’s now to the left of it.

8. Repeat: Forward knot dark around medium, forward knot dark around medium, backward knot medium around dark, and backward knot medium around dark until you’re back at your starting point and your original string order.

Rows 3 & 4:

Row 3 works left to right, moving the medium along as you did before and row 4 mimics row 3, working from right to left.

9. Backward knot light around medium. Repeat with the next light to the right: backward knot around medium.

10. Forward knot medium around dark. Forward knot medium again around the next dark.

11. Repeat: Backward knot light around medium, and the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then around the next dark.

12. Repeat row 3 working from right to left. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium.

Repeat this process until your bracelet is almost long enough to wear! Leave an inch for the clasp and crimps.

Finishing it off

13. Carefully remove the starting tape and hold your strings so that they form a row no wider than the width of your bracelet. Place a thin line of hot glue where the strings end. Repeat on the finishing point of your bracelet. When the hot glue is totally dry, flip it over and repeat on the back .

14. When your hot glue is dry on both sides, attach a ribbon crimp to each end. Attach a clasp and connector to your ribbon crimp – or read this tutorial for how to add a clasp to a friendship bracelet. Your buffalo plaid bracelet is complete!

I hope you love your gorgeous buffalo plaid friendship bracelet and wear it all year long! Which color combination will YOU try? Comment below!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to make a gorgeous, sophisticated buffalo plaid firnedship bracelet - or micro macrame! This stunning winter accessory is simple to DIY and fun for teens through adults.

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Materials

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Clasp and connector - I used jump rings

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Thread snips

Instructions

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Notes

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

This bracelet follows basic rules:

• You're creating 4x4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot - either it's being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium - it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you're up to - a light row or a dark row.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet Pattern appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I absolutely love setting a gorgeous table every Friday night. As a Jewish mother, we always have a nice formal (but relaxed) family dinner, often with guests. Lately, I’ve been sharing some of the DIY table decor I make to help craft a pretty tablescape.

I’ve shared so many DIY napkin rings (these resin napkin rings are a favorite – but these super easy leather ones are also a hit).

But what about the napkins themselves? Today, I’m sharing how to make Shibori napkins using super-easy materials!

Basics of making Shibori napkins

What is Shibori

Shibori is effectively tie dye, but the Japanese method. Usually, we crafters call it that when we use the deep blue ink inspired by the natural indigo inks used in the Japanese craft.

Effectively, the way we usually do it, it’s just tie dye in deep blues. If you look at true Shibori, what we do is a far cry from it.

But it still makes for some gorgeous patterns, and using the deep blue inks associated with Shibori keeps it classy on the table! Since we’re beginners, we are sticking to relatively simple Shibori techniques.

Sourcing your materials

I confess: I cheated. I actually made these because I saw a kit at Target on clearance! I wasn’t going to share the tutorial (you know I should occasionally craft it just for me), but then I realized that Target no longer sells this kit (it WAS on clearance), so maybe I should share the how-to!

The funny thing is, I had purchased tea towels at Dollar Tree years ago to turn into napkins – and I never really did it. I felt like they were too big, intended to sew them down, found the material hard to work with, and turned some of them into rags. Then, I realized that the napkins that came with the kit were the same exact thing – just mesh tea towels! Whelp. They worked fabulously.

I would, however, prefer a more elegant base for this. Make sure it’s tie-dye friendly and absorbent. I think that a linen or woven cotton would be perfect. If I did this again, I’d buy an elegant white napkin to do it on.

The rest of the materials for this are pretty basic. Get Shibori dye (or just use dark navy tie dye). The kit came with ribbons and rubber bands – I found the rubber bands easier to work with. Real Shibori would use multiple methods beyond tying to create the resist (including stitches, clamps, and more).

How to make Shibori napkins

You’ll need

• White fabric napkins made from an absorbent material
• Shibori dye – either actual indigo powder or Shibori-inspired dyes
• Squeeze bottle(s) – You really only need one, but it won’t be enough to dye all your napkins. You can refill it, but that can be annoying. I had all my squeeze bottles lined up to do all at once. You can also create different dye strengths, and you may want a few bottles for that.
• Rubber bands – or if you want to go more diverse, you can mix it with other techniques
• Tarps or disposable tablecloths/garbage bags to protect your surfaces
• Lots and lots of paper towels (or towels you don’t mind ruining)
• Gloves so you don’t stain your hands

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! I also show a slightly different technique in the video. Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step-by-step process

Note: most dyes come with their own instructions. Since their makeup can differ, always prioritize package instructions over my own!

1. Tie up your napkins! If it’s your first time doing this, I’d recommend starting simple. I used the basic “Kanoko” method, which is most like tie dye. Simply hold the napkin from the center point and let the four corners fall. Hold the whole thing together as one bundle. Tie it in increments.

I did try some with string, but preferred how the rubber bands looked.

2. Prepare your dyes in squeeze bottles! You can do different dye strengths based on the water-to-powder ratio. I had bought enough kits to make 12 napkins, but I kind of regret not doubling the dye (and just purchasing more powder) as I got more of a denim blue than a navy.

Protect your surface well (it’s dye – it’s permanent). Lay out (paper) towels to absorb extra and avoid runoff.

3. Start pouring it on your napkins! You’re supposed to really soak it and let the tying do the work of creating a resist. Try not to miss any spots.

4. When they’re all ready, dump them into a huge plastic bag and close it. Let it sit for a while (I did overnight).

5. Wash off the excess dye. Cut off your bands. Open it up and enjoy the result!

Follow your package instructions WELL for post-processing, and make sure to wash your Shibori napkins on their own for the first few times, as they are not necessarily colorfast right away!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make shibori napkins! Which type of napkins would you like me to share next? Comment below!

How to Make Shibori Napkins

Prep Time: 10 minutes

Active Time: 20 minutes

Additional Time: 1 day

Total Time: 1 day 30 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Estimated Cost: 20

Craft these gorgeous Shibori napkins using the popular Japanese tie-dye method!

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Materials

• White fabric napkins made from an absorbent material
• Shibori dye - either actual indigo powder or Shibori-inspired dyes
• Squeeze bottle(s) - You really only need one, but it won't be enough to dye all your napkins. You can refill it, but that can be annoying. I had all my squeeze bottles lined up to do all at once. You can also create different dye strengths, and you may want a few bottles for that.
• Rubber bands - or if you want to go more diverse, you can mix it with other techniques
• Tarps or disposable tablecloths/garbage bags to protect your surfaces
• Lots and lots of paper towels (or towels you don't mind ruining)

Tools

Instructions

1. Tie up your napkins! If it's your first time doing this, I'd recommend starting simple. I used the basic "Kanoko" method, which is most like tie dye. Simply hold the napkin from the center point and let the four corners fall. Hold the whole thing together as one bundle. Tie it in increments.

I did try some with string, but preferred how the rubber bands looked.

2. Prepare your dyes in squeeze bottles! You can do different dye strengths based on the water-to-powder ratio. I had bought enough kits to make 12 napkins, but I kind of regret not doubling the dye (and just purchasing more powder) as I got more of a denim blue than a navy.

Protect your surface well (it's dye - it's permanent). Lay out (paper) towels to absorb extra and avoid runoff.

3. Start pouring it on your napkins! You're supposed to really soak it and let the tying do the work of creating a resist. Try not to miss any spots.

4. When they're all ready, dump them into a huge plastic bag and close it. Let it sit for a while (I did overnight).

5. Wash off the excess dye. Cut off your bands. Open it up and enjoy the result!

Follow your package instructions WELL for post-processing, and make sure to wash your Shibori napkins on their own for the first few times, as they are not necessarily colorfast right away!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make shibori napkins! Which type of napkins would you like me to share next? Comment below!

Notes

Note: most dyes come with their own instructions. Since their makeup can differ, always prioritize package instructions over my own!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Shibori Napkins – Easy Tutorial for Beginners appeared first on Moms and Crafters.