This winter, A got VERY involved with making paper snowflakes, and as the weather warmed up, she had a problem. What next? She approached me with this problem and I suggested that she learn how to make flowers using the same paper folding technique.

But when we sat down to do it, she just couldn’t get it. So I made her some templates. The running joke in our house is that she doesn’t even realize that it’s not so normal for your mom to just design you a template that minute when you can’t figure out a craft. But the good news is, other moms don’t need to, becauese I designed it for you.

Get the easy paper flower folding templates

Most of the templates that I found online using this technique were more complex – more “snowflake style”. I wanted to use the same method but with simpler petals. I figured I’d create a few styles (eight to be exact). Some of them look similar, but when you cut them they’re all different.

Crafting tips are below, but meanwhile, you can get your easy flower paper folding templates here. I decided to offer the basic shape I first designed for A for free, and the full bundle for a few bucks  in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT.

Get them all

The full bundle includes eight petal shapes. Each page has the same shape in three sizes. Two are very similar in size and one is significantly larger. This allows you to stack them or mix ‘n match.

The full bundle also includes a PDF with assembly instructions, so that you can have it handy.

This is a premium download, available in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Get the basic petal shape (free download!)

Get the most basic petal shape for free. This includes one size and is for those of you who don’t need much and just want a basic template for this craft.

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

Different ways to use these easy flower paper folding templates

I assembled my own flowers a few different ways. A liked to just cut them and do nothing with them – and that’s totally fine too! But I like to share some more practical ways to finalize it and turn it into something you can enjoy after you’ve crafted it.

Flat stemmed flowers

Some of my favorites are these “pinwheel” style flowers. To make these, I stacked two cut paper flowers using a brad pin. I then taped it (hot glue works more permanently) to a colorful dowel.

The result is a forward facing flower that is so much fun for display and doesn’t try to look too realistic.

I curled the petals on these to add some drama, and even made some extra cuts on one, showing how you can really play with the template within the provided framework.

A flower bouquet

Another favorite is this stemmed flower that can be arranged more naturally in a vase. It doesn’t try to look real, but it has that gathered vibe.

I used chenille stems to make stems and leaves, and added pony beads to the mix too. For these, I stacked 2-3 flowers, and I played around with curling the petals or leaving them flat.

Flat paper crafts

And finally, I wanted to show a scrapbooky use of the paper flowers. I went ahead and found buttons as the center, and glued them on a trimmed-down scrapbook paper background.

This is a great application for using the easy paper flower folding templates in scrapbook pages, but also as wall art/collages/shadow boxes, greeting cards, and as embellishments for any flat craft.

Tips for using easy paper flower folding templates

There are so many different ways to craft with this as it’s really just a basic template. I like to share ideas beyond what I tried, so that you can take it a few steps further – and because it’s impossible for me to physically try everything that can be done with this!

Adapting for different age groups

For younger kids, you may want to keep it simple. A, my main tester, is five. She really handled the simplest petal shapes in the largest size best.

This does make great cutting practice, as it can get pretty challenging. So go ahead and give them things that are a bit harder to try! My daughter tried it, skipped a few curves and grooves, and it still came out great!

You may need to help finish it for younger kids by separating the petals, if they don’t cut over the parts of the fold they were supposed to.

As for folding these correctly: I showed A how to do it once and she totally got the hang of it. So it’s definitely doable for most kids ages 6+ (she’s a relatively crafty 5.5 year old).

Either way, for younger kids I’d definitely focus on the larger flowers and then give smaller ones as they get more advanced. You can supply them with white glue and markers and they can decorate it and then glue the layers on each other.

For older kids, more advanced art supplies (as I’ll share in a bit), curling petals, and assembling it into stemmed flowers can be a cool finish.

The base flowers – paper, decorating, and more

To make these bright and colorful, I went ahead and printed the templates directly onto colored copy paper. I had the most fun with the post-cutting process. I pulled out automatic ink, easy to use paint markers and had fun adding doodles.

I also played with colored pencils – specifically these super soft oil-based ones which showed up really well on the medium blue paper.

You definitely want to print on regular paper (not cardstock) as it’ll make the folding and cutting process easier.

Some more ideas for decorating the base flowers include:

• Watercolor paints – since you’re using paper, you’ll want to go easy on this and allow for generous dry time. You can do this before cutting on the whole sheet, or after cutting, to make actual flower details.
• Paint sticks are a favorite for younger kids.
• Gel pens are fabulous for finer, more intricate doodles. Good quality gel pens are important as cheaper ones tend to be single-use.
• You can trace the template onto scrapbook paper or other fancy papers too! You really just need to main square template and the single petal. Just trace the square, fold it without the dashed lines, and use that single petal as a template on the final triangle.

There are so many more ways you can craft this, so if you have ideas, just drop a comment!

Playing with different materials

As you can see, I really did completely turn over my craft room pulling out a zillion different craft supplies. I experimented with layering different flower patterns. I really played.

I encourage you to do the same. Try buttons as the centers of stemmed flowers. Use large sequins as centers on flat crafts. Try crafting these with actual paper flower supplies. Pull pom poms into the mix.

There is really so much you can do here, and being creative with it will make it your own!

How to make a paper flower bouquet using easy paper flower folding templates

You’ll need

For the basic folded paper flowers

• The templates – get them  in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT, printed on (colorful) paper
• A bone folder for crisper folds (optional but recommended)
• Good scissors that have a smallish (and pointed if not working with young kids) blade

For assembling it different ways (all optional/as needed)

• Coloring supplies such as paint markers, colored pencils
• Hot glue gun (adults only) – my recommendations for best hot glue guns
• Tape/double sided tape
• Dowels
• Chenille stems/pipe cleaners
• Pony beads
• Buttons
• Brad pins

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Photo Tutorial

1. First, if you haven’t yet, print your templates. I used colorful copy paper.

2. Cut it out on the outer solid square.

3. Fold it on the full-width dashed line. A bone folder can help you get a good, sharp crease so that your end project goes smoother.

4. Fold it again on the new full-width crease (the one that went perpendicular to the previous crease.)

5. You have one final dashed line that’ll again fold it into even halves, but this time into triangles. Fold it on that line. At this point, make sure all your folds are nice and sharp.

6. Cut out your petal on the solid line. Make sure to go along your folds as needed, but to leave the center fully connected.

7. If you’ll be placing something through the center, you can snip off a tiny bit of the still-connected corner to make a center hole for later.

8. Open up your flower You’ll see that some flowers will have “grouped” petals – that’s okay. If petals that are meant to be separate are connected, just fix that now with your scissors.

9. To make a stacked flower, cut another size.

10. Decorate your flower! My favorite way is with paint markers, creating random or floral-inspired doodles.

11. Now assemble them as you’d like! If layering flowers, stagger the leaves so that the top layer(s) fill in the gaps on the bottom one.

I hope you enjoyed your easy flower paper folding templates! Got more ideas for how to craft this? Comment below! And in case you didn’t yet, get the template in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT!

If you enjoy fun, open-ended creative crafts like this one, you’ll also want to check out these paper clothespin butterfly templates, this origami tulip tutorial, and these viral paper clothespin puppets.

The post Easy Flower Paper Folding Templates – “Snowflake” Flowers Craft for Kids! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I love a really easy grab-n-go activity that keeps kids busy, doesn’t take up space, and can simply be discarded or passed on when we’re done with it! Craft stick puzzles are a win in this way: they’re so flat and easy to pack, they can even be kept in my slim shoulder bag!

This shape matching activity is ideal for classrooms, for road trips, for long plane rides, or any time you’ll enjoy something nice and compact for on the go.

Tips for making this shape matching activity

Before we start, here are some crafting tips and ideas for variations to get the most out of your shape matching activity.

Your Puzzle Base

I used craft sticks to make this shape matching puzzle, because it’s affordable, accessible, and flat! Go for jumbo tongue-depressor style ones, or, if you can find it, super jumbo craft sticks.

If you don’t have craft sticks, you can follow the same format using scraps of corrugated cardboard, or just cardstock. It just won’t be as neat and durable, but it’ll definitely work.

You can make an XL version for more permanent use as a playroom or classroom toy by using paint stirrers or similar wooden slats.

Adding the Shapes

In this tutorial, I show you how to create these craft stick puzzles using acrylic paint. You want something bright and opaque for kids to be able to see easily.

To do this, use a stiff-ish thin paintbrush. You’ll need to exercise some wrist control, and may want to keep things clean by outlining your shapes.

If you prefer to, you might have a much easier time using paint markers. I highly recommend POSCA markers if you can swing them – they’re opaque, long-lasting, and of superior quality. However, if you can’t, Ohuhu also makes a few versions of paint markers that work very well (their automatic ink ones are my favorite).

More shapes to draw & matchmaking tips

While this was absolutely created as a shape matching activity for basic shape recognition, don’t stop at that! Try creating other images for kids to match up, and think beyond the drawn shapes. Some ideas:

• Themed: florals for Spring, holiday shapes
• Unit-based, such as transportation/vehicles, animals, and more.
• Letter recognition
• Number recognition
• Color matching – use dot stickers split on two sticks
• Morse-style patterns for older kids
• Images clipped from magazines

You can see that with the basic format of this craft in place, the possibilities are endless.

Ways to use this shape matching activity

Here are some of my favorite ways to use any craft stick puzzles!

Taking it on the go

I love organizing simple activities in pencil cases in a travel binder, coupon file (see my ideas for a DIY travel activity kit here), or even in simple activity pouches.

This one is small and flat enough that it works in any of these settings – and even small enough to store in the car without too much clutter.

You can also attach magnets to the back and use it on a sheet pan as a magnetic activity.

Classroom lessons and applications

There are so many lessons to be learned from a simple activity like this:

• Counting
• Color identification
• Matching
• Pattern and sequencing
• Visual Perceptual Skills
• Fine Motor Coordination

Of course, you can add to the mix by swapping out the themes like I did above. You can add social skills by playing games with this (such as racing games, or give each kid a stack, and have them swap with friends the parts that they’re missing, like open-card go-fish style).

Since this is inexpensive, you can make a few sets and have it as a classroom center activity and quiet time toy.

How to make a craft stick puzzle shape matching activity

Here’s the step by step process to craft these. Of course, do it as you’d like.

What you’ll need

• 16 jumbo craft sticks
• Acrylic craft paints in black, white and primary/ROYGBIV colors (recommended for preschool kids for early color recognition.) Alternatively, use paint markers
• Washi, masking, or painter’s tape
• Paintbrush if using craft paints
• Pencil

Step by Step Instructions

1. Gather all supplies. Using a low tack paper tape, attach eight sets of two jumbo craft sticks together.

2. I recommend outlining your shapes on a separate paper to keep things consistent. I recommend: a circle, a square, a rectangle, a triangle, a heart, and a diamond. For big kids, you can add more complex shapes like hexagons, trapezoids, etc. Select one color of craft paint for each shape.

3. Using a pencil, trace three shapes onto each set of jumbo craft sticks. Make the combination of shapes random. Make the center of the shape (especially those with a distinct center point like diamonds and hearts) fall on the space between the sticks.

4. Basecoat the hearts with red acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary.

5. Basecoat the rectangles with orange acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary. Note: these are just color suggestions, as I did it. Feel free to adapt with your own colors.

6. Basecoat the triangles with yellow acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary.

7. Basecoat the squares with green acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary.

8. Basecoat the circles with blue acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary.

9. Basecoat the diamonds with purple acrylic craft paint. Let dry, then apply a second coat if necessary.

10. Once all the paint is dry, remove the washi tape or painter’s tape. Mix up the craft sticks and play the game.

Mix the sticks up and let your preschooler match them back!

And of course, pin the image below to share it with a fellow parent or teacher!

The post Shape Matching Activity – DIY Popsicle Stick Travel Toy for Toddlers appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

It’s amazing to me that I haven’t even finished sharing my daughter’s dress up party from last year (you can see our dress up station here) and I’m already working hard on sharing her next birthday – a sleepover party! I designed this heart keychain laser file as a fun and inexpensive party favor to hand out, however, I figured I need to share it in time for Valentine’s Day because it’s perfect for that!

These are so quick and easy to engrave, cut, and put together and they use inexpensive basswood plywood sheets. And yes, you can also use acrylic! But I’m getting ahead of myself – let’s go through the details of this heart keychain laser file so you’ll know how to use it well!

How to Use This Heart Keychain Laser File

Laser Cutting them

These are designed for laser engraving and cutting. I used myLaserPecker LX2 – my full-sized Diode laser engraver. You can read my full review of the LaserPecker LX2 here and of course, I’ll share full tips for how to do it below. Use code momsandcrafters at checkout at LaserPecker’s shop for an extra 5% off your machine!

Ultimately, laser engraving these gives you a ready-to-go result. You just pull them off the engraver, assemble them in minutes, and you have a finished product. It’s the best way – but not the only way to use this heart keychain laser file.

Cricut Crafting Variations

You CAN Cricut craft these! If you have a Maker, use the knife blade to cut it from wood. You can use a pen to draw the design right onto wood (I share how to do this in this or balsa wood Cricut tutorial). The design an outline so it’ll go over the whole thing twice – which will make it nice and bold.

Cricut cutting wood is quite inefficient but doable, so definitely opt for a laser if you can!

Some more ideas for how to Cricut craft this heart keychain laser file:

• Engrave leather bookmarks with the details, and cut them from leather. You may want to mirror the design as well to make it two-sided for added sturdiness.
• Cut the design from vinyl and attach them to round acrylic keychain blanks. You can make a two layer design with the details. You will need to remove the hole.
• Slice the details from the base design and make it from vinyl on a keychain blank. You’ll once again need to remove the hole.
• Same as the above – but try it from stiff felt and glue it onto a wooden keychain base.
• Engrave the design using your Cricut on an acrylic keychain blank (learn how to engrave acrylic on the Cricut here.)

There are so many ways you can use this heart SVG – you’ll just need to be a bit more creative!

More ways to finish them off

I added tassels that actually came with my acrylic keychain blanks to these. They are simple leatherette tassels – and yes, you can make your own leather tassels too!

Some more ways to finish this off and make it polished:

• Paint the wood before cutting and engraving. Use basic acrylic paint. I kind of regret not doing this.
• You can stain and/or seal your keychains after as well. If painting, use a thin wash and make sure it doesn’t fully color the insets.
• Leave it unfinished and let recipients color it themselves with paint markers (this is great if you’re making this for a party!)
• Use fun colorful keychains.
• Add hanging beaded charms to the keychians.

I made this on a whim with what I had but you can absolutely craft it cooler than I did!

Cutting this Heart Keychain Laser File on a Laser Engraver

I used my LaserPecker LX2 to engrave and cut these and I have so many tips for how you can do this. I used this laser as the best suited for the job, because it has a large bed, and as a gantry laser, you get good smooth cuts. In addition, the air assist feature helps minimize charring that often happens on wood.

Which type of laser can cut these?

Any Diode, CO2, or UV laser can cut wood. If crafting from acrylic, Diode lasers work beautifully on many shades of red and pink (read: which colors acrylic can a Diode laser cut for more tips on doing this).

A gantry style laser (the kind with a large bed and a module that moves around on a track) is better suited to cutting jobs than a galvo (the more compact kind where the laser moves around using mirrors – like the LaserPecker LP5 I reviewed here) because you get a straight-down cut, vs. the angled cut on a galvo.

It’s small enough that you CAN cut it on galvo lasers, and there are no parts that need to fit together. So it’ll cut very nicely on both types, although more efficiently on a gantry.

More cutting tips and tricks

While I made some mistakes on earlier rounds and did better on later rounds, I figured I’d offer you feedback on how to better cut this. If you’re new to laser engraving, I recommend you read my tips and guide for engraving wood with a laser where I share so much advice.

Meanwhile, here are some pointers:

• Score don’t engrave – on my earlier ones, I engraved the design. On later ones, I scored it. This moved so much faster and made a better line, while still retaining all the detail. Since the details are quite fine, it didn’t look outlined.
• Air assist – I sometimes forget to turn on air assist. If you have that feature, it can get you such a fabulous, clean finish, without charring.
• Secure your wood – If cutting multiples, it’s always worth taping or clamping down the wood you’re working with, just in case it shifts.
• Paint first – as I mentioned above, I regretted not adding a couple of coats of paint to the wood before cutting and engraving.
• Mask your wood – If you don’t have air assist, masking the wood with masking tape sheets first can help get you a cleaner cut. You may need to adjust your settings a bit to get the result you want through the tape.

How to make your keychains using the Heart Keychain Laser File SVG

This tutorial is based very specifically on how I crafted it. Of course, adjust for any of the variations I shared above.

Supplies Needed

• 3mm Basswood Sheets
• Laser Engraver (I used the LaserPecker LX2)
• Keychains
• Pliers
• Tassels

Process

1. Upload your file to your laser software and resize it to the size you want. Set the outline and hole to cut. Set the internal design to score.
2. Prep your wood as needed, load your wood, preview, and make sure that your environment is safe – properly ventilated, no laser light leak, etc. Engrave and cut your wood.
3. Remove your cutouts. Attach a tassel and keychain.

Your heart keychains are complete! I hope you enjoy this FREE heart keychain laser file and SVG!

Download your free heart keychain laser file

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Heart Keychain Laser File SVG (Free Download) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I recently realized that I majorly neglect creating winter crafts. With this season so busy, and a lot of my energies directed into creating beautifully curated gift guides, I find that the season goes by too fast.

But I’m working on switching that this year, with a few new winter-focused ideas and today, I’m starting with snowman peg dolls that have been on my “to craft” list for years!

Ways to use snowman peg dolls

As with any peg doll, these snowman peg dolls are so versatile! I crafted these for use in with this 2-ingredient fake snow but you can make them for really just about any winter purpose. Here are some ideas:

• Peg dolls make great pretend play toys! You can use it with anything that comes with small figures, such as Little People play or small dollhouses. Bring these out to mix things up for winter-themed play.
• In sensory bins. Use this to play with Instant Snow or in any winter-themed sensory bin.
• Use these as a focal point in a DIY snow globe
• These make fabulous embellishments in any winter scene – a diorama, a Christmas village…
• Glue on a ribbon to turn them into adorable little ornament

There’s really so many things you can do with this – whether you’re popping it into the toy bin, or making it for something specific!

Tips for crafting snowman peg dolls

This is a pretty straightforward craft that can be crafted different ways, but here are some tips for getting it right the first time.

Choosing your peg dolls

Peg dolls come in many different shapes, sizes, and styles. You can actually get snowman shaped ones, but I wanted to add more texture to mine so I wanted it without the hat.

I got a multi-pack so that I have options for different crafts, and chose a larger sized one with a straight body as the closest match.

I like to get my peg dolls from Woodpeckers because I know they’ll be high quality, and support a New Jersey based small business. You can get them on Amazon, or directly from them. If purchasing direct, use code MOMSANDCRAFTERS for 5% off your purchase.

Dressing it up

To dress up your snowman peg dolls, pull out those fabric and felt scraps! You can also use ribbons, buttons, beads, and of course, markers.

Try using winter textured fabric, such as tweed, felt, fleece, and corduroy for your accessories.

On one, I made a beanie hat. I did this using scrap tweed that I bought eons ago to make a skirt. I made a scarf using soft corduroy I had in my scrap bin.

On the other, I made a felt top hat. I perched it at an angle for a little character. I also cut off the finished edge of a fleece blanket (that I purchased to cut apart for crafts) for the scarf on this one.

I used finished/crafting wooden branches for the arms, but you can also pick twigs from outside. I used wooden beads for the buttons, but of course, if you have small buttons, use those. And the nose was hacked from a small bit of rolled up/folded felt.

I drew on the face using a paint marker (this set is double sided, with the fine side perfect for projects like this).

Variations and more ideas

This is one of those crafts that you can make a zillion times and each time it comes out different! Here are a few ideas:

• As I mentioned, use twigs from outdoors for the arms
• Again, you can use buttons for the buttons.
• Pull out the pom poms! They are fabulous for winter crafts. Tiny ones can be used as buttons, and you can use one on the hat.
• Try making the hat from bits of an old knit sweater
• The scarf can also be made using ribbon.
• Want to make earmuffs instead of a hat? Cut two small circles of felt and connect them with a thin pipe cleaner.
• Use glitter paint as a top coat to add some snow-inspired shimmer.

The possibilities for these snow man peg dolls are really endless, so pull out all your craft stuff and get creative!

How to craft snowman peg dolls

Watch the video, or scroll down for the step by step tutorial.

Materials

• Peg dolls (see notes above)
• White acrylic craft paint
• Paint Brush
• Scraps of felt and fabric
• Odds and ends like buttons, beads, pom poms, twigs
• Detail scissors
• Hot glue gun – you can check out my rundown of the best glue guns for crafts. I used this one for this craft.
• Paint markers

Process

1. Paint your peg doll white. One layer will likely give it a stained look. A second layer will look opaque. Dry time should be pretty quick.

Making the beanie hat

2. To make the beanie, cut a small rectangle. It should be slightly wider than the circumference and higher than you want it to be.

3. Roll it up twice from the bottom, keeping it as small as you can, hot gluing in place.

4. Glue one end to the other to form a circle that will be the circumference of your hat.

5. Sew a running stitch around the hat at the point where you want the hat height to end. Pull it tight.

6. Wrap thread around that point to make it as tight as you can.

7. A few stitches back and forth through the hat should finalize the shape of the beanie.

8. You can either trim off the extra and glue on a pom pom. Or, cut fringe into the extra instead to make a pom pom.

To make a top hat

9. Cut a felt circle the size you want the brim of the hat to be – a bit wider than the head of the peg doll. Cut a felt strip the height you want the hat to be. The length should be big enough to form a circle smaller than the brim, with a bit extra for gluing.

10. Glue the strip, connecting both sides to form the main part of the tophat. Using hot glue sparingly, glue the ring on the center of the felt circle.

11. Measure the circumference of the ring and use that to create the top of the tophat. Again, using hot glue sparingly, glue that on top.

Finishing it up

12. Glue the hats on the peg dolls.

13. Create carrot noses by rolling up a tiny scrap of felt, gluing it in place. Use detail scissors to cut it into shape.

13. Glue it in the center of the face.

14. Glue on 2-3 beads as buttons.

15. Draw on button eyes and mouth. I didn’t use glue-ons for this because it’s so small and I felt it would be excessive.

16. Cut a strip of fabric for a scarf. Cut a bit of fringe on the side if you want.

17. Wrap it around the neck of the peg doll. Tie it or glue it in place.

18. Glue on sticks for arms.

Your snowman peg dolls are complete! Which peg dolls would you like to see next? Comment below!

The post Snowman Peg Dolls appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Those last few days before the new school year starts can be long and empty, which is why they are the perfect time to craft things for back to school!

And what better way to get crafting than to use very basic craft supplies to make a clever little “first day of school” picture frame?!

This back to school picture frame is so simple and forgiving, and we made it look like notebook paper with a fun pencil detail. It uses a clothespin to hold the photo in place, making it simple, unfussy, and clever!

Tips for using craft sticks to make a back to school picture frame

The sticks: We used jumbo craft sticks to make this, but you can make it in smaller using regular craft sticks if that’s what you have handy!

Painting it: We used a mix of craft paint for the larger areas and Posca paint markers for the details. You can color the whole thing with paint markers or even washable markers if you’re okay with an opaque more child-crafted look. You can even use colored pencils on wood.

And if you want to spare the pricey Poscas, you can get a cheaper brand of paint marker, such as Ohuhu or Sharpie. In fact, Sharpie’s new creative markers don’t require any pumping, making them more puddle-resistant and easier to use.

Glue: Wood is a porous material, which means that it absorbs glues and attaches very easily. We used a hot glue gun because we don’t want to wait for it to dry. But you can totally use regular school glue – just leave it in place till it’s totally dry. Tacky glue or wood glue are even stronger options.

How to make a back to school picture frame

You’ll need

• Jumbo craft sticks
• Mini clothespin
• Wooden star (optional)
• Paint markers in blue, black, and red
• Hot glue gun (read my best hot glue guns for crafts here) or school, tacky, or wood glue
• Acrylic craft paint in: Pink, White, Yellow, Black, Silver (or Grey)
• Paintbrush – I recommend a fine round one and a smallish flat one
• Good scissors
• Pencil (optional – if you like to pencil things in first)

Instructions

1. To create the notebook paper, line up ten jumbo craft sticks on your work surface. Using scissors, trim additional jumbo craft sticks to the height of the combined craft sticks and glue on the back. I used a hot glue gun (adults only), but you can make it more kid friendly by using regular school glue. If you do that, you will have to wait for it to dry. Tacky glue holds together a bit better while you wait.

2. Basecoat the notebook paper with white acrylic craft paint. Let dry, and apply a second coat, if necessary.

3. Cut a triangle into the end of a jumbo craft stick with scissors to create a pencil tip. Note: craft sticks are a harder to cut, require strong scissors, and can produce some splinters. I recommend that a grown up do all cutting on this project.

4. Paint the pencil with yellow for most of the body. Add a pink eraser at the round end, and a silver band between the eraser and body. Paint the triangle shaped point with tan or white paint (or leave it the natural craft stick color) and then paint a black point. You can fine tune details on a second coat if you want.

5. I recommend using a good quality paint marker to make your notebook paper – you’ll have more control over the results! Draw horizontal lines with a blue marker at the nine intersections of where the jumbo craft sticks meet.

Draw one vertical line with a red marker on the left-hand side of the notebook paper. Use a ruler as your guide.

7. To add a fun little detail (optional) paint a wooden star with yellow acrylic craft paint, and let it dry. Draw a #1 on the star with a black marker.

8. When everything has dried, attach the star to the top and the pencil to the bottom of the notebook paper with your preferred gluing method.

9. Print the words FIRST DAY OF SCHOOL with a black marker on the pencil. Draw three holes on the left-hand side of the notebook paper with a black marker.

10. Attach a mini wooden clothespin to the top center of the notebook paper so that the open side is facing down. This clip will hold the photo.

What a wonderful way to celebrate the start of a new school year – and a fresh start for everyone!

The post Back to School Picture Frame Craft appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

You may have noticed… I’m obsessed with napkin rings. They are like jewelry for the table and there is just so much you can do with it from a crafting perspective.

I wanted a set of rustic modern wood napkin rings, with clean lines but an organic feel.

So obviously, I had to make them!

The challenge: Can I turn wood slice coasters into DIY wooden napkin rings?

Of course, the answer is a resounding… yes!

Tips for making DIY wooden napkin rings

My main strategy for making these was going to be to simply carve at them using a rotary tool.

I pulled out my MakerX rotary and got to carving. But it wasn’t that simple. I mean, it was AND it wasn’t…

I always try to be honest with you with the scope of a project. This one is a pretty big one. It’s not physically taxing, but it’s not just a quick make – you need some patience and you need to be able to handle a LOT of dust.

Safety first

Yes, there is a LOT of dust. I recommend having a vacuum handy to keep it under control as you go along.

You absolutely need a good respirator mask for this – or you’ll be inhaling the dust. And you’ll want goggles too – even if you wear glasses.

If this is too much of an ask for you, go ahead and try these copper wire DIY napkin rings instead – they’re much easier.

Choosing your coasters

First of all, most wood slice coasters, including the ones that I got, are cheap little things.

And yes, you should keep this project cheap.

I aimed for 3 inch coasters to try and start off closer to my final size. The problem is you need AT LEAST the 3 inches – if the size varies too much it’ll be a problem – not all will work. The standard coaster is 4 inches, and you’ll find much more in that size. You’ll probably even get better quality for a better price, due to there just being more options – and therefore an ounce of competition.

In fact, I went ahead after making this project and made more of them so I can serve up to 12, and used thicker, larger coasters. It’s much harder (more sanding, etc) but the grain was much prettier and I got the size I wanted more consistently.

The original ones I got had a foamy fake-feeling bark on it, which is fine – I was taking it off anyway, and it came off quite easily. But on some the bark was too thick, and the nicest napkin rings were the ones that had a bit more rim on them. So some just came out too thin.

Another thing is that we’re relying on the “spread” of the coaster to give the final napkin ring some style, and not the thickness. If you do find thicker wood slices (1 inch thick) then go ahead, get them. But it’ll be much harder to make the hole – unless you have more advanced power tools (more on that later).

So get 4 inch coasters, and look for quality if you can find it. And be prepared to sand. And if you can use power tools, do it.

The biggest challenge: making the hole

The absolute biggest challenge was starting the hole on these.

I knew this would be a challenge, but I was up for it.

I generally played with the drill bit on my rotary tool and my craft knife to nudge out the middle as messy as I can and it worked great – it just took some time,.

Eventually my husband suggested that I laser cut it out. Because, you know, I own a laser cutter. Haha. I forgot to mention that. Don’t run away!

I tested the process without a laser cutter on enough to know that it’ll work – it just takes a bit more time and patience. And after a few I was ready for a bit of a shortcut – mainly because I needed to get this post ready. But it’s totally doable with just the rotary.

The ideal way to make the hole would actually be using a 3/4-1 inch hole saw drill bit – it’s a bit of a small, delicate piece to work on, but that’s a cheap attachment to get!

So if you’re willing to go beyond the rotary, I totally recommend getting that. And if you do own a laser cutter, it’ll just zap that hole out.

You want everything on these DIY wooden napkin rings to feel organic and hand-carved anyway, so you really just need the starting hole to make it work.

And one final point: if you ARE using larger (3.5-4 inch) coasters, you might also want to expedite the edge removal a bit using either a laser if you have one, wood carving tools, or more efficient tools than just sanding as it’ll create a lot of dust.

Finishing it off

After you finished hand-carving your DIY wooden napkin rings, you’re going to want to finish it off somehow. My goal here was to get it as organic looking as possible – really, just a classy, beautiful, clean napkin ring.

But leaving it unfinished wasn’t an option – especially when placing it on the table with food.

I played with the following options:

• Gilding wax.This did retain the natural texture of the wood and added a bit of glam. I’d totally make a set like this if I find my courage to craft another!! But it wasn’t quite what I was looking for.
• White paint wash. I wanted a modern, light wood look and this wasn’t quite where I wanted it. Again, it’s an option for another set, and doable, but meh.
• Butcher block oil. I really really wanted to avoid spending more on this craft, but this was definitely the perfect choice and what I used in the final, staged images in this post.

In an nutshell: these DIY wooden napkin rings don’t require special skills to make. They don’t require advanced DIY tools but those would help. They do require decent crafting tools including a rotary and protective equipment. And they do require some patience and dedication to the cause (which I frankly had plenty of).

How to make DIY Wooden napkin rings from wood slice coasters

Watch the video tutorial

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Supplies needed

• Wood slices – Smaller ones will be much easier to work with, especially without advanced tools, but you’ll be limited in edge space. Quality tends to be poorer. Larger ones had a nicer grain in my experience, are a bit thicker, and will be harder to remove the outer edge without better tools.
• Rotary tool – I used the Worx MakerX. You’ll want angle grinder (the rotary bits, not the tool), sanding drum, and drill attachments. I got these drill bits to complement what the rotary came with. A cutting bit might help, especially if using a larger coaster.
• Craft/utility knife
• Optional: starting your project will be easier with a drill hole saw (not featured in this tutorial)
• Respirator mask and goggles
• Recommending: cut-resistant glove
• Butcher block oil and rag

Process

1. Start by making the hole in the center. You want it to be large enough to comfortably slide a napkin through, so keep one handy for reference. It might get dusty so use a junky one.

If you have a hole saw drill bit, use that, your life will be much easier. If you’re working with the rotary-only, start by drilling holes around the perimeter of your circle.

2. Use a craft knife to help you break through them. In hindsight, I wished I HAD tried a cutting bit for the rotary so if you have one, definitely try that!

3. Poke out the hole. This is just a starting hole – you’ll be carving it from here!

4. Next step is to remove the worst of the bark. You can use the craft knife for the flakey bits, but I found that the angle grinder attachment got it off in seconds.

5. It’s time to start carving! I found that the coarse sanding drum was just perfect for this. It got the job done meticulously, taking off plenty of wood when needed, especially when on a higher setting, and giving me more detailed work when I slowed it down.

Start by cleaning up your hole. Make it the size you want at this stage.

6. Next, shape the perimeter. Go for that “live-edge” look that has a slightly organic, uneven shape.

7. And as a final step, you’ll want to round off all your edges as well.

And that includes the inside edges. For this step, I recommend putting your rotary on a lower setting so you don’t take off too much wood.

Refine until you are happy with the shape, the smoothness, etc.

You can smooth things out further with a finer grit sandpaper too.

8. When you’re happy, clean it off and finish it off with butcher block oil according to package directions.

Your DIY wooden napkin rings are finished and fabulous! What kind of napkin ring tutorial do you want to see next? Comment below!

DIY Wooden Napkin Rings

Craft your own gorgeous DIY wooden napkin rings - made from wood slice coasters!

Print

No Ratings

Materials

• Wood slice coasters - the kind with a bark edge
• Craft/utility knife
• Respirator mask and goggles
• Recommending: cut-resistant glove
• Butcher block oil and rag

Tools

• Rotary tool - I used the Worx MakerX. You'll want angle grinder (the rotary bits, not the tool), sanding drum, and drill attachments. I got these drill bits to complement what the rotary came with.
• Optional: starting your project will be easier with a drill hole saw (not featured in this tutorial)

Instructions

1. Start by makin the hole in the center. You want it to be large enough to comfortably slide a napkin through, so keep one handy for reference. It might get dusty so use a junky one.

If you have a hole saw drill bit, use that, your life will be much easier. If you're working with the rotary-only, start by drilling holes around the perimeter of your circle.

2. Use a craft knife to help you break through them.

3. Poke out the hole. This is just a starting hole - you'll be carving it from here!

4. Next step is to remove the worst of the bark. You can use the craft knife for the flakey bits, but I found that the angle grinder attachment got it off in seconds.

5. It's time to start carving! I found that the coarse sanding drum was just perfect for this. It got the job done meticulously, taking off plenty of wood when needed, especially when on a higher setting, and giving me more detailed work when I slowed it down.
Start by cleaning up your hole. Make it the size you want at this stage.

6. Next, shape the perimeter. Go for that "live-edge" look that has a slightly organic, uneven shape.

7. And as a final step, you'll want to round off all your edges as well.

And that includes the inside edges. For this step, I recommend putting your rotary on a lower setting so you don't take off too much wood.

Refine until you are happy with the shape, the smoothness, etc.

You can smooth things out further with a finer grit sandpaper too.

8. When you're happy, clean it off and finish it off with butcher block oil according to package directions.

Your DIY wooden napkin rings are finished and fabulous! What kind of napkin ring tutorial do you want to see next? Comment below!

Notes

Ideas for Finishing off your Wooden Napkin Rings:

Gilding wax: This did retain the natural texture of the wood and added a bit of glam. I'd totally make a set like this if I find my courage to craft another!! But it wasn't quite what I was looking for.

White paint wash: I wanted a modern, light wood look and this wasn't quite where I wanted it. Again, it's an option for another set, and doable, but meh.

Butcher block oil: I really really wanted to avoid spending more on this craft, but this was definitely the perfect choice and what I used in the final, staged images in this post.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post DIY Wooden Napkin Rings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Today I’m going to teach you – hopefully – everything you need to know about engraving on wood with a laser. Wood is such a fabulous, versatile materials for laser engraving, and is perfect for beginners. It’s affordable and easy to use, and offers endless possibilities for customization because of the amount of blanks there are out there.

Today, I’m using the xTool F1 Ultra – read my review here and have one project done using the F1 – read my review here. You can use pretty much any Diode or CO2 laser engraver to do this – and you can read my comparison of the F1 vs F1 Ultra here to see which might be right for you.

Already have a laser? Let’s dive in!

The Basics of Engraving on Wood With a Laser

To start with, it’s important to know that not all lasers are the same. Unlike cutting machines (like your Cricut), laser engravers have lots of variability in their outcome and there’s no one-size-fits-all solution for engraving on wood with a laser.

But, I’m here to teach, and will share some basics to get you started.

Since wood is a soft material, it really engraves nicely and there are endless things you can do with it. There are so many blanks you can get in wood but some of my favorites are:

• Acacia cutting boards
• Wood and leather keychains
• Bamboo pens – these are so inexpensive and make fabulous handouts
• Coin-shaped bottle openers
• Coasters – especially wood slice coasters are a very popular choice too.

You can also cut your own blanks, but that’s for another time…

Safety tips

First of all, wood is a flammable material that sets off fumes.

Make sure you have a good air purifier or are venting outdoors. For me, the xTool SafetyPro air purifier is a game changer – read my review here.

It can also catch fire – and in fact, small flames are normal. Have a fire extinguisher handy. I keep a car fire extinguisher near my laser engravers.

Knowing your wood

Different hardness of woods burn/engrave at different paces and so start off by knowing which wood you’re working with. If you don’t know, you’ll just need to experiment more.

Woods with lots of variation in the grain might give you variation in the engrave as well – which can look great but catch you off guard if you’re not expecting it! So pay attention to the grain too.

Make test grids for EVERYTHING. Just do it. You’ll get the look you want that way and really have control over your outcome on a material where that is a built-in challenge.

Choosing the right settings

Choosing the right settings will include some trial and error. I WILL provide settings I used in this post just in case you’re using the same material and machine as me. However, I wouldn’t be teaching you if I wouldn’t share with you how I came to this setting, because every machine and environment is different.

I always start with the xTool recommended settings for that material or the material I think is closest to it. Make a test grid and choose which is best.

If I find that my wood is flaming up too much, the solution is really simple: do more passes at a higher speed. However, this will require some trial and error, so make sure you have a test scrap (or three) handy.

Different styles of engraving on wood with a laser

Not all engravings are the same – and when you create a test grid, you’ll see the options that are available! But I’ll break it down into three unique processes.

Simple engraving

I always recommend starting with a very simple name project when learning about engraving on wood with a laser: here, I engraved names of family members on bamboo wooden pens.

I did this one on the F1 – not the Ultra – and my settings were Power 90, Speed 200, 100 lines.

This basically just colors/burns the wood and doesn’t remove much material. It is also more susceptible to variations in the grain.

On the F1 Ultra, I made this “listen” keychain using default settings for walnut plywood.

You can see how the design is flush against the wood. This is great for basic personalization and a wood burned look. You can get really intricate designs with this.

The “Listen” SVG is included in a free download at the end of this post.

Deeper engraving

I crafted these wooden earrings on my F1 Ultra as well, and you can see that the engraving is MUCH deeper. It made an indentation that can then be filled with color like I did here.

It DID also darken the wood, giving a stained effect. Settings were 3mm Basswood default settings.

Deeper engraving gives an incredibly cool look – kind of like a carving. It goes beyond the wood burned look. I do recommend sticking to simpler designs with this. However, if you’re going intricate, like I did on this wood cutting board, keep the engrave lines thin and the in-between areas larger, so that the wood that sticks up isn’t too thin and brittle.

Layered Engraving

Once you get the hang of different settings, there’s another really cool trick you can try with laser engraving: layer your look! To do this, you need a layered SVG – which I include as a free download at the end of this post.

You’ll need to set each layer as a different setting. Because the image of the base flower is part of the layer below it as well, it’s repeating that burn, and comes out darker. You can also make the engrave settings on that one darker.

I also set a full layer of this project to “score” to create a much darker outline for a super cool effect.

My settings were as follows (chosen from the pine coaster default settings options):

• Base layer: Power 70, Speed 300, 100 lines
• Inner flower: Power 70, Speed 300, 100 lines (second pass over the base layer)
• Score outline: Duplicate the full base layer and apply settings Power 90, Speed 50
• Inner flower: I didn’t use this and just deleted it, but you can try making another layer if you want!

This flower is part of your free download, but you can get the full set here.

This is why you want to do a test grid for any material you will be engraving on wood with a laser – you can really gauge the look and dial in those settings correctly. And once again, practice on similar pieces – but be aware that the nature of wood is variation and no matter what, you’ll get some inconsistency. Embrace it as part of the beauty of nature!

Download your sample files for engraving on wood with a laser

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

What are your favorite things to engrave on wood with a laser? Comment below!

The post Engraving on Wood with a Laser appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I picked up these driftwood slices ages ago, because I saw ’em and had to have ’em and have been hoarding them since. Not long ago, I had a rare moment of crafting time with actual big people, not just littles, and I pulled out my box of wooden stuff and these paint markers to relax with some illustrations.

And then these DIY drift wood name keychains somehow appeared beneath my hands!

I started by writing my niece’s name on one of them, and then it evolved into making one as a Hanukkah gift for the nieces and nephews I’d be seeing, as well as my own kids. And yes, I wrote “breathe” on one just to show you that you can do random words too. Also, in case I forget to breathe, I guess?

Tips for making wood slice keychains

My driftwood slices came without holes, so yes I did drill holes. The truth is, you can make these name keychains with any blank – a more traditional wood slice, an ornament blank that comes pre-drilled, or even acrylic blanks.

The size of these, though, are really perfect for keychains, and the organic shapes add so much charm. The angled edges make them really easy to drill and hang but the thick body of them make them sturdy and durable. They’re smooth to the touch too.

Using paint markers is just a really easy way to make a craft a take-and-go tabletop, do-anywhere type of activity. It means you can do it as a party craft with kids making their own too.

However, you can, of course, also use paint and just use a marker for the name. You can also add the name using small alphabet stickers (look for nail stickers for longer names?) or designs cut on your Cricut.

Make sure you use sturdy hardware, especially the jumprings, as keychains get lots of wear and tear.

I sealed mine with matte Mod Podge to make it more durable, however that step is definitely optional. My kids have had them on their heavily-abused backpacks for a good six weeks so far and they are going strong. I have not received any repair requests… yet.

These make fabulous party favors, small gifts to hand-out, swag, or whatever… And yes! You can even turn them into ornaments and necklaces…

How to make Drift Wood Slice Keychains

I’m going to share the process to make it very specifically how I did, however, this is really a “do your own thing” kind of idea! So totally do it how you want and get creative.

Materials

• Driftwood ovals
• Paint markers
• Matte Mod Podge
• Foam Pouncer
• Soft paintbrush
• Good, thick jump rings
• Keychain hardware
• Pliers
• Drill or rotary tool (I have the Worx MakerX) with drill bit

Process

1. Start by coloring the base of your keychain. I made mine two-sided but left the sides natural. Use a metallic marker for the base.

2. Take a pastel marker in the same color as the metallic and add a border. It doesn’t need to be neat – it should have a natural, organic look like the driftwood does.

3. Add some detail to your border. I added a lacy edge to some and some comic-style lines to others.

4. Use the thin side of your paint marker to write the name once the background marker has dried. If you’re not confident in your lettering skills, you can pencil it in first.

Play around with both script and print fonts!

5. To seal it in, you’ll use Mod Podge or an acrylic spray sealer. An acrylic sealer doesn’t require dry time but you need space to work with. Especially if using Mod podge, make sure to allow your lettering to completely dry first! Give it some extra time! You don’t want to smear it.

Begin by gently pouncing on some Mod Podge. Then use a soft paintbrush to gently smooth out any texture the pouncer leaves. The main point in painting it this way is to avoid overworking the Mod Podge and smudging your name.

6. Drill a hole. Note: if doing this at an event or in a group, do this step in advance to prep it for the crafters.

7. Attach your keychain with a jumpring.

Your wood slice keychains are finished and ready to gift! What will you be writing on yours? Would you do anything different? Comment below!

DIY Wood Slice Keychains

Active Time: 15 minutes

Total Time: 15 minutes

Difficulty: Easy

Estimated Cost: $3

Print

No Ratings

Materials

• Driftwood ovals
• Paint markers
• Matte Mod Podge
• Foam Pouncer
• Soft paintbrush
• Good, thick jump rings
• Keychain hardware

Tools

• Pliers
• Drill or rotary tool (I have the Worx MakerX) with drill bit

Instructions

1. Start by coloring the base of your keychain. I made mine two-sided but left the sides natural. Use a metallic marker for the base.

2. Take a pastel marker in the same color as the metallic and add a border. It doesn't need to be neat - it should have a natural, organic look like the driftwood does.

3. Add some detail to your border. I added a lacy edge to some and some comic-style lines to others.

4. Use the thin side of your paint marker to write the name once the background marker has dried. If you're not confident in your lettering skills, you can pencil it in first. Play around with both script and print fonts!

5. To seal it in, you'll use Mod Podge or an acrylic spray sealer. An acrylic sealer doesn't require dry time but you need space to work with. Especially if using Mod podge, make sure to allow your lettering to completely dry first! Give it some extra time! You don't want to smear it.

Begin by gently pouncing on some Mod Podge. Then use a soft paintbrush to gently smooth out any texture the pouncer leaves. The main point in painting it this way is to avoid overworking the Mod Podge and smudging your name.

6. Drill a hole. Note: if doing this at an event or in a group, do this step in advance to prep it for the crafters.

7. Attach your keychain with a jumpring.

Your wood slice keychains are finished and ready to gift! What will you be writing on yours? Would you do anything different? Comment below!

Notes

Make sure you use sturdy hardware, especially the jumprings, as keychains get lots of wear and tear.

I sealed mine with matte Mod Podge to make it more durable, however that step is definitely optional. My kids have had them on their heavily-abused backpacks for a good six weeks so far and they are going strong. I have not received any repair requests... yet.

These make fabulous party favors, small gifts to hand-out, swag, or whatever... And yes! You can even turn them into ornaments and necklaces...

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Wood Slice Keychains with Names or Words appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

As you may have noticed from this previous post, I have a soft spot for rustic decor. My home has naturally rustic touches and I’m in love with them.

So when I saw these unfinished planks of wood at the dollar store, I just had to find the perfect use for them – and here it is! You can use simple small planks in any size to customize the scale of your tray – just use the process tow work with what’s available.

Use this wooden tray to display smaller decorative objects, corral toiletries in your guest room or powder room, or to display items in a buffet spread (I wouldn’t put food straight on this, though, unless you use a food-grade finish).

This tray is purely decorative – I wouldn’t use it for actual serving because there’s no lip to stop things from falling off and the handles aren’t very strong – they’re mostly for show. But it can help keep your table or buffet clean by placing dishes or drinks on top of it.

While the finished product looks sophisticated and even somewhat upscale, this craft is really easy to do and can come together in minutes. You don’t need to be artistic to pull off this classy yet simple look. Crafters and helpers of any age can participate (young crafters will need your help to attach the handles with tacks.)

An advantage of the rustic style is that imperfections are part of the look – so you can relax and jump right in without worrying about your level of skill or neatness. Just as no two trees are quite the same, no two wooden trays are, either! So don’t worry if the edges of your wood pieces don’t line up just so, or if the paint came on a little blotchy. It’s all part of the vibe.

This is a perfect craft to let your personal taste shine – if you’re not into the rustic farmhouse style, you can easily dress it up any way with different colors and types of paint. Try using a stencil to add a pop of design with paint, or add a glossy or semi-gloss finish if you prefer a sheen.

I’ve given you dimensions based on the materials I used, but feel free to go smaller or larger depending on what you have available and what you plan to use the tray for. This really is a super flexible, easygoing craft.

What you’ll need

• 4 pieces of wood, about 1 inch thick and 12 inches long – or combine multiple pieces to get your desired size.
• Glue (wood glue would be great, but other strong craft glues – such as Tacky glue – should work too)
• Paint – white or off-white
• Foam paint brush
• Rope – the rope you’ll choose will strongly influence the look of your final tray
• 4 thumb tacks
• Scissors

How to make a DIY wooden tray

1. Arrange the wood chunks side by side, in the shape of a tray. Glue them along the edges. If you have time, it  may be helpful to hold each piece firmly for a minute or two while it sets, before adding the next one.

2. Allow time for the glue to dry fully. Use the foam paintbrush to paint the whole tray. If you want to see the wood grain, use less paint and a light touch – you can even try wiping off the paint after applying it to see if you like that look. If you prefer an opaque color and don’t want to see the wood grain, consider adding a second coat of paint after waiting for the first one to dry.

3. Cut two pieces of rope about 7 inches long – the exact length isn’t so important, as long as they’re the same as each other.

4. Use thumb tacks to attach a piece of rope as a handle on each end of the tray.

Tip: you can also glue it in place for added security.

Your DIY wooden tray is complete – display and enjoy!

How to Make an Easy Wooden Tray

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5.0 Stars (1 Review)

Materials

• 4 pieces of wood, about 1 inch thick and 12 inches long
• Glue (wood glue would be great, but other strong craft glues - such as Tacky glue - should work too)
• Paint - white or off-white
• Foam paint brush
• Rope - the rope you’ll choose will strongly influence the look of your final tray
• 4 thumb tacks
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Arrange the wood chunks side by side, in the shape of a tray. Glue them along the edges. If you have time, it may be helpful to hold each piece firmly for a minute or two while it sets, before adding the next one.
2. Allow time for the glue to dry fully. Use the foam paintbrush to paint the whole tray. If you want to see the wood grain, use less paint and a light touch - you can even try wiping off the paint after applying it to see if you like that look. If you prefer an opaque color and don’t want to see the wood grain, consider adding a second coat of paint after waiting for the first one to dry.
3. Cut two pieces of rope about 7 inches long - the exact length isn’t so important, as long as they’re the same as each other.
4. Use thumb tacks to attach a piece of rope as a handle on each end of the tray.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Easiest Ever DIY Wooden Tray! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I recently pulled out my stash of peg dolls and wanted to make something unique – beyond just peg dolls!

I decided to go for windmills using a combination of color and texture to make a super cute craft.

This is a craft that is perfect for bigger kids, although younger kids can have a meaningful part in decorating the base peg doll. So it’s a great side-by-side craft for younger kids as well.

I played around with stripes and simple patterns but kids can really go all out with the base adding more details, their names, etc.

What to do with your wooden windmill craft

These wooden windmills are really a “just for fun” craft but you can use them as part of a small world or educational diorama.

They can also be a super fun part of seasonal display. And of course, they’re fun for kids to just display on their desk or dresser!

These are a fun workshop or summer camp craft as it’s relatively open-ended. Kids can really have fun with the patterns they create on the base and make it their own.

A few notes about supplies I used for this wooden windmill craft

The supplies you use in any specific project have a major impact on both the process and the result. This wooden windmill craft in particular is very specific in which supplies will work best, and that’ll depend on who you’re crafting with.

Where I get my peg dolls

I purchased the wooden base of these peg dolls from Woodpeckers Crafts on Amazon. They are a high quality New Jersey based small business that I love for wooden crafting blanks.

I bought mine on Amazon, however, you can also purchase directly from them. They have good bulk discounts, and you can get an additional 5% off using code MOMSANDCRAFTERS.

The pack I got is a big bulk pack with lots of different sizes. I used the larger ones – and larger ones do work best. If you want more specific sizes – that is, if you’re not stocking your craft room, rather want the big ones only for this craft – I recommend buying just the big ones.

The paint

I used good quality craft acrylics for this and recommend doing this with bigger kids. You can also use paint markers – again, quality matters. I used Posca but a classic craft brand can work as well.

Paint markers are a good choice for when you’re trying to turn this wooden windmill craft into more of a personalized art project. It’s easier to add detail more precisely and kids will have more control.

If you’re crafting this with young kids, or in any setup where there is a concern with ruining clothing, use washable paint instead. They tend not to be as opaque, requiring more than one layer, but they still are loads of fun.

Another great mess-free alternative are the tempera paint sticks. The two brands I’ve tried and found to be good quality (fast-drying, good coverage, doesn’t get all mushy) are Ooly Chunkies and Kwik Stix.

The biggest drawback of this is that it’s hard to use on something small. You can also use Kwik Stix’s thin ones. I haven’t tried those (I suspect they might crack easier than the thick ones) but you can also just use a large base peg doll instead.

How to make a wooden windmill craft

Watch the full video

Supplies needed

• Wooden peg dolls
• Acrylic paint
• Small flat and fine tipped paintbrushes
• Recommended: plastic paint palette
• Stiff felt scraps
• Glue: E6000 or hot glue
• Detail scissors
• Thumbtack (adults only)

Step by Step Instructions

1. Paint a base coat on your peg doll. When it dries, add some pattern in a contrasting color.

2. Cut a small piece of felt. Mine is about 1.5×1.5 inches, but yours should depend on the size of your doll.

3. The following few steps involve thumbtacks and non-kid-friendly glue. An adult should complete it.

Fold the felt in four. Stick a thumbtack carefully in the corner to mark the center. Unfold.

4. Place the thumbtack into the hole you just made. Cut from each corner to the border of the thumbtack (or a bit before).

5. You have four triangle sections now. Use your thumbtack to pre-poke a hole in each of the right corners of your triangles (or the left – but it should all be the same.) Leave enough space that it won’t tear to the end, but not too much space.

6. This is the hardest part: fold over your four corners so that the holes align and push the thumbtack through the existing hole one layer at a time.

7. Pre-poke a hole in your peg doll and dip the end of your thumbtack into hot glue, E6000, or similar. Push the thumb tack through the hole and hold in place until set. Let dry completely.

I hope you enjoyed making this wooden windmill craft! What kind of tutorial do you want to see next? What else do you craft using peg dolls? Comment below!

DIY Wooden Windmill from Peg Dolls

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Materials

• Wooden peg dolls
• Acrylic paint
• Small flat and fine tipped paintbrushes
• Recommended: plastic paint palette
• Stiff felt scraps
• Glue: E6000 or hot glue
• Detail scissors
• Thumbtack (adults only)

Instructions

1. Paint a base coat on your peg doll. When it dries, add some pattern in a contrasting color.

2. Cut a small piece of felt. Mine is about 1.5x1.5 inches, but yours should depend on the size of your doll.

The following few steps involve thumbtacks and non-kid-friendly glue. An adult should complete it.

3. Fold the felt in four. Stick a thumbtack carefully in the corner to mark the center. Unfold.

4. Place the thumbtack into the hole you just made. Cut from each corner to the border of the thumbtack (or a bit before).

5. You have four triangle sections now. Use your thumbtack to pre-poke a hole in each of the right corners of your triangles (or the left - but it should all be the same.) Leave enough space that it won't tear to the end, but not too much space.

6. This is the hardest part: fold over your four corners so that the holes align and push the thumbtack through the existing hole one layer at a time.

7. Pre-poke a hole in your peg doll and dip the end of your thumbtack into hot glue, E6000, or similar. Push the thumb tack through the hole and hold in place until set. Let dry completely.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

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