When I was a kid, I used to take piles of hair ties and loop them together different ways. I made all sorts of things with it – my favorite was actually bracelets. But when I saw braided hair tie headbands all over my social media feeds, I knew it was time to revisit that!

Today I’ll be sharing FOUR fun ways to make these braided hair tie headbands. You’ll see presented in the photos and tutorial and another one in the embedded video tutorial. I just ran out of hair ties so I had to dismantle one to show you the last style!

That’s what’s so cool about theses hair tie headbands. There’s no gluing – it’s just looping. They are addictive and relaxing to make. They are inexpensive and look so cute with the different braids you can assemble. And you can even repurpose the hair ties a limited number of times (they do stretch out eventually).

Trying different methods of making braided hair tie headbands

I played with a few different methods of looping these. I wanted to show you just how much you can do with just two supplies. Yes, that is all you need. Two supplies and you have some really cool headbands with literally nothing else – not even glue!

1. The basic braid – front and top

The basic braid is the one that you may have seen the most. It requires a very basic looping method, where each hair tie is looped through the one next to it. You can make the braid portion (that’s formed by the looping hair ties) face forward or face up. We turned ours upward but I actually think it looks pretty cute facing forward, especially on hair that has more texture or volume.

2. The Cobra Braid – 2 Color

The Cobra braid looks like the classic cobra knot that I showed on these Gimp bracelets. They form the “braid” on both the front on the back, and on top you have a zipper-type look just like a Cobra knot would form. I like doing it with two colors – and specifically two shades of a single color – but you can definitely bring in more colors!

3. The Three Color Layered Braid

This method works best with three colors. You want an odd number so that you can cross over to the other side and get that criss-cross effect. And more than three will need to stretch too far.

Do it by looping each one with the next color, positioned on the opposite side of the headband.

4. The 3 Color ZigZag Braid

This one is pictured in the video only – I didn’t have enough ponies and wanted to try the style above as well so I did dismantle this one.

It’s accomplished by placing the ponies in two directions and looping each one over the next consecutive one on the other side for a zigzag braided effect. I did it with three colors but it can be done with any numer.

The best supplies to use for braided hair tie headbands

While there is some flexibility in the materials you use to make braided hair tie headbands, here are some pointers and key features for success.

Your pony holders

Your ideal pony holder is a no-crease small sized cotton pony holder that’s thick. This gives you good coverage while allowing for a tight “braid”.

While you CAN play with others (especially for the layered braid) you’ll want it to have these qualities.

The base headband

The base headband should be a rigid headband with a bit of width. While you can use metal headbands for this, you’ll need to go for a nice, wide one. My ideal headband for this is a rigid plastic one. You can also use satin covered ones.

I don’t recommend using one with teeth. It’ll be harder to move things around if you need to, and you’re anyway covering the teeth.

How to make braided hair tie headbands step by step tutorials

Supplies needed

• 32-35 hair ties per headband
• Rigid headbands

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos. The video shows four ways, the photos show three.

Process Breakdown

Method 1: Basic Braided hair tie headband

1. Wrap your hair tie around the headband in the spot where you want your braid to start. The headband should not go through the hole – you’re folding the hair tie in half over the headband.

2. Pull one side through the loop formed at the other side.

3. Pull through till it’s tight.

4. Continue adding hair ties this way until you reach the end of where you want the braid to be. All hair ties should be in the same direction for this style.

5. Start “braiding.” Pull your second hair tie through the loop of the first.

6. Grab the third and pull it through the loop of the second.

7. Continue doing this until you pull the last one through the loop of the second to last.

8. Pull that one over the end of the headband to sit next to the rest of that pony. Your “braid” is complete.

9. I find that when I make this style, I naturally make it along the side of the headband. This can look cute – it’ll face front when worn. But you can also turn it to sit on top of the headband.

Your basic braided hair tie headband is complete!

Method 2: two-color Cobra braided headband

1. Start looping ponies onto the headband in the same way. Only this time you’re alternating between two colors and alternating directions.

2. Keep going until you’ve covered the area you want your “braid” to cover.

3. You’ll be connecting the loops the same way you did above, only this time you’ll be doing it one side/one color at a time.

Finish it off the same way too.

Your cobra-style braided hair tie headband is complete!

Method 3: The Three Color Layered Braid

1. On this one, you’re alternating directions again, but alternating between three colors.

2. Work one color at a time and loop only the same colors together, zigzagging across the headband. Keep in mind that the first color you “braid” will show the least, and the last one will show the most, so choose which colors you want to be the most and least dominant.

Your layered braided hair tie headband is complete!

I really hope you enjoyed watching how to make braided hair tie headbands using these three easy methods! It’s such a fun addictive craft – perfect for sleepover parties, birthday parties (no dry time!) and just everyday accessory making.

If you enjoyed this, you can check out this DIY tiara headband tutorial too!

The post Braided Hair Tie Headbands – 4 ways! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A’s big brothers often have sleepovers, so when we were looking for a theme for A’s fifth birthday, a “sleepover” theme was the perfect choice! This unslumber party (or “sleepunder” party) was an absolute hit and such an adorable party.

The primary activity as well as party favor was sleep mask decorating with kids – we made this easy sleep mask craft that doubled as a party favor too.

This is a hit both as a party craft but also as something for kids to make at home, at sleepaway camp, or anytime this is a fit!

The kids absolutely loved it. It was very engaging, and they spent much longer on it than anticipated. In fact, they spent so long on it that I didn’t even have time to do all the planned activities!

And they wore them for the rest of the party, and some kids even wore them to school the next day (the kids ranged from 4-5 years old).

In this post, I’ll be sharing with you how to make this sleep mask craft (which isn’t much of a tutorial – it’s self explanatory) but also my tips for decorating them with kids and setting it up as a party activity.

Tips for sleep mask decorating with kids at a party

This makes such a good party activity because:

• There’s no dry time
• It’s open-ended – kids can really be creative
• It’s special – it requires specific supplies that are more affordable in bulk and isn’t just another thing they can make at home any time
• It doubles as a part favor.

Activity Setup and Guidelines

I decided to get a stick-on varsity initial to make it special and personalized for each kid. Make sure to get enough letters for each participant (I needed two packs of initials). You can purchase letters individually.

I also got a big pack of stick-on gems. These stuck really well and did make for a semi-permanent application (kids can pull them off but they won’t come off on their own.)

When the kids arrived, they each had a plate set up with their name, a mask, and the initial on it. The gem sheets were scattered across the table. Be generous with your gems – I regret not getting two packs. They’re great for other crafts too and inexpensive, and that way kids have more choices.

I find that having an open-ended (unguided) craftivity set up for kids right when they arrive is a great way to warm them up for an at-home birthday party. It helps them jump right in when they’re stil feeling a little shy and makes them excited about what’s to come.

Since everything is effectively a sticker, the kids just jumped right in and got VERY busy. They did not need any instruction at all. They were hypnotized by the activity, dedicating themselves fully to blinging their sleep mask crafts.

Just a quick seating tip: I seated the two friends who weren’t in her class next to A and the classmates together, just to make things less intimidating for those two.

Make sure to have a sample on the table for kids to follow (the upside down w “M” one you see was my sample).

Sending them home as favors

Especially when the activity doubles as a favor like by this Dog Man party – but even when it’s just a craft-heavy party – I like to have bags prepared in advance with the kids’ names.

That way, as they complete their crafts, I can simply slip it into their bags. Most of the kids wore their masks after but I did get bags for them regardless. The masks came in bags, but most of them tore when I took the masks out so I recommend getting separate bags.

Each bag was prepared with this laser heart keychain, and two scrunchies, and had plenty of space for the sleep mask crafts and the bookmarks they created (which I’ll share at a later date).

When they finished decorating the masks, they went to the reading corner (again, I’m going to share all the details in a later post) and I collected any masks that were left behind to put in their labeled bags.

The sticker was a Canva design (the same one I used for the invitation), printed on sticker paper.

You can see that the favor bags and labels were really inexpensive. While the sleep mask craft was a bit pricier, it was balanced out by savings in other areas, AND it was both the primary entertainment and the primary favor.

More tips for making a sleep mask craft

Whether you’re crafting this at home, at camp, at a party, or for any other occasion, I figured I’d share some tips and tricks for making this.

Embellishments and ideas

The only embellishments we provided were:

• An adhesive initial per person
• Sheets of adhesive gems.

That WAS enough, but if you’d like to offer more, here are some more ideas. Some are suitable for parties, and some should only be done in a one-on-one crafting scenario.

• Adhesive shapes – many initial sets come with more chenille style stick-ons. Those can be fun too, but you’ll still only want 1-2 per person.
• Adhesive patches – again, unless doing this at home, stick with adhesive, but you can get loads of embroidered patches for a cool look.
• Glue-on gems – you can do larger glue-ons but again, you’ll need more supervision with this and it’s best for when you’re just crafting at home.
• Buttons – bigger kids can sew on fun buttons.
• Paint markers or fabric markers – kids can color and decorate their sleep masks. Just test the markers in advance of the activity.

Favorite occasions and themes to make this craft

IF you spotted this craft not for a specific occasion, but just while browsing, here are some fun times to make them, besides for an unslumber party!

• An actual sleepover party
• A sleepover with one or two friends – you can get more detailed if you have an adult handling the hot glue gun.
• A take-home activity at a larger gathering, such as a school event
• This is so cool as a get-to-know-you icebreaker at sleepover camp
• Or if you’re having an overnight for day camp
• It’s cool for pajama day at any school or camp

How to assemble this sleep mask craft

The assembly process is very basic, but you’ll enjoy seeing the kids actually putting theirs together!

Pay close attention to my guidelines for the materials to use.

You’ll need

• Sleep masks: good quality satin ones make a big difference, especially if it’s a party favor. HOWEVER, the ones I got were adult sizes and too big for preschoolers. I did run them through the sewing machine for a second to take in the elastic at the back. You can also get adjustable ones.
• Gems: get enough gems in a good mix of shapes to go around – at least 2-3 sheets per kid. You’ll have extras for another project, but you want the kids to be able to choose.
• Initials: one for each kid. Double names still got one.

Tutorial

1. Stick the initial in the center of the mask.

2. Decorate with gems.

That is all! No dry time, just stickers. The kids had a blast! I hope you enjoyed!

The post Sleep Mask Craft – Decorating with Kids appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain is one of those tiny projects that makes everyday life feel a little more hands-free. A wristlet keychain is a short leather loop that slips over your wrist, with your keys attached at the end, so your hands stay free while you juggle coffee, kids, groceries, or all three.

It also makes keys just plain easy to find. Instead of fishing around in a bottomless bag, you’ve got a loop you can grab in one second. And because it looks polished (even when it’s made from scraps), it’s a sweet, practical gift that doesn’t feel last-minute.

If you’re new to leather or faux leather, don’t stress. This is a no-sew project that uses basic tools and scrap materials. You’re basically cutting a strip, folding it, and crimping hardware in place. It’s beginner-friendly and budget-friendly, I promise.

Before you start, choose a design that fits your hand and your hardware

The best wristlet keychain is the one that feels good on your wrist. Too small, and it’ll pinch, or won’t slide on easily. Too big, and you might just lose those keys. The “sweet spot” is usually a loop that slips over your hand without effort, then sits comfortably at your wrist.

Here’s the simple way to think about sizing: Start from your bangle size. Then, add a couple of inches. If you like it roomier (or you want it to slide on fast), go a bit larger.

Your hardware choice changes the whole build, too. A classic key ring is sturdy and simple. A swivel clasp (like I used) is great if you want to clip it onto a bag strap or switch key sets. Choose this if you’re selling your final product.

Leather thickness matters more than you might think. Stiff, thick leather can feel uncomfortable. If you’re working from a scrap bag, that’s fine. Just match your plan to what your leather can comfortably do. For mine, I chose two pieces of fun, colorful, and super soft leather. For more scrap-friendly ideas, this list of leather scrap crafting inspiration is full of quick wins.

Picking the right leather (scraps are perfect)

For beginners, look for leather that folds without cracking. You’ll usually run into two types: vegetable tanned leather (often stiffer and better for stamping) and chrome-tanned (often softer and more flexible); PVC or PU leather sheets make a great flexible alternative. Either can work here, as long as it bends nicely.

A good thickness range for this project is about 2 oz to 5 oz (roughly 0.8 to 2 mm). Very thick leather can be frustrating because it may not fit into standard ribbon crimps, and it can leave bulky ends.

Quick test: fold a corner over with your fingers. If it creases neatly and doesn’t show tiny cracks, it’s probably a good candidate.

How to size your strap so it feels good on your wrist

Measure around the widest part of your hand (usually over your knuckles with your thumb tucked in), or measure the loop size you want. Add a little breathing room, about 1-2 inches, so it slides on easily.

Add another half-inch for the hardware.

Example: if you want an 10-inch finished loop, cut about 10.5 inches of leather (then you can trim a touch shorter before crimping if it feels oversized). It’s easier to shorten than to magically add length, so don’t cut too aggressively at the start.

Hardware options and what to buy if you are new

The easiest hardware for a no-sew leather wristlet keychain is a ribbon crimp (also called a ribbon clamp), though advanced makers might prefer a saddle stitch using waxed thread. The width of the crimp should match the width of your leather strip. If your strip is 1 inch wide, buy a 1-inch crimp. The thickness matters too, since some crimps are shallow. You can also get dedicated key fob hardware.

If your crimp cuts it a little narrow, you’ll be able to work with it, by try to get as close as you can.

For the key attachment, you can use key fob hardware like a split ring, a lobster clasp, or a swivel clasp. A jump ring is optional, but handy if you want a little extra movement between parts.

Two mistakes to avoid: buying a crimp that’s too small (it won’t close cleanly), and using a flimsy key ring that bends open over time.

Tools and setup tips that make the project look clean

A clean result comes from two boring things that help a lot: a steady surface and a straight cut. Set yourself up at a table with good light, and put down a cutting mat. Leather can shift while you cut, so it helps to secure it with masking or blue painters tape and take your time.

You don’t need fancy leather tools to make a wristlet that looks giftable. At a basic level, you’ll want a ruler, a sharp blade, and pliers. That’s it.

If you enjoy the process and want to upgrade later, there are some nice extras: a strap cutter for perfect strips, a mallet if you decide to stamp the leather, a hole punch (useful if you ever add rivets), and edge paint or burnishing supplies. Even a tiny bit of leather conditioner can make scraps look richer.

One safety note from someone who’s cut “just one more strip” while tired: keep your fingers out of the cut path, and use slow, controlled pressure. Leather is tough, and blades slip when you rush.

If you want to see ribbon crimps used on a leather project in a slightly different way, this magic leather braid bracelet tutorial is a great visual reference for how crimps should close.

Cutting safely and getting straight edges without special tools

Tape the leather down to your cutting mat so it can’t wiggle. Use a rigid metal ruler if you have one, since plastic rulers can get nicked by blades. For even easier straight edges, try a rotary blade if available.

Make light passes with your craft knife instead of trying to cut through in one go. Think of it like slicing a bagel, gentle pressure, repeat, and you get a cleaner edge. Keep your non-cutting hand well away from the ruler edge. You can also score it with the ruler and finish the cut with scissors, but work slowly, with very sharp scissors if you do it like this.

Easy finishing touches that upgrade the look

Round the corners with scissors if you want a softer, store-bought feel. Rub the edges briskly with a cloth to smooth fuzz, then add a tiny dab of leather conditioner and buff it in. For a pro touch, run an edge beveler along the edges before burnishing them smooth.

If you have edge paint, use it, but don’t feel like you need it. A neat cut and rounded corners already do a lot.

How to make a DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain

This is the part that feels like magic. You start with a plain strip, and a few minutes later you’ve got a wristlet keychain you’ll use every day. Go slow on the cutting, and take two seconds to check the loop size before you crimp it shut. That tiny pause saves a lot of frustration later.

Supplies Needed

• Leather scraps (I’ve found good packs of this at Michaels and Blick)
• Cutting mat
• Cricut Maker – just make a rectangle to your chosen dimensions in Cricut Design Space (optional for precise digital cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Strong grip mat (for stabilizing leather during Cricut cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Knife blade
• Masking tape
• Rigid ruler
• Craft knife or rotary cutter
• Ribbon crimp (to match the width of your wristlet keychain) or dedicated key fob crimps
• Key fob hardware (key ring or clasp)
• Pliers – you can get specialized key fob pliers with crimps or just use chain nose pliers (for secure assembly of ribbon crimps)
• Optional: jump ring (additional key fob hardware), edge finisher, heat transfer vinyl, EasyPress Mini, etc.

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step tutorial

1. Choose a ribbon crimp that matches your strap width and has enough depth for your leather thickness (test-fit the leather inside before cutting everything).

2. Tape leather scrap to cutting board (or strong grip mat if using Cricut Maker).

3. Use ruler to cut to size (1 inch by the circumference of your final strap, plus half an inch); or send an SVG file through Cricut Design Space.

4. If your knife isn’t sharp enough to go through on one run, you may want to score it and finish the job using scissors.

5. Cut the corners a bit if needed to fit the ribbon crimp. Optional: Decorate the strap with heat transfer vinyl using an EasyPress Mini, or stamp it, before assembly.

6. Connect two ends with a ribbon crimp and attach the key fob hardware.

7. Before you fully flatten the crimp, slip the loop over your wrist to check the fit, then squeeze the crimp firmly with pliers until it feels solid and doesn’t gap.

Conclusion

A DIY leather wristlet keychain is one of those quick projects that feels like a little victory. It’s fast, forgiving, and a smart way to use scraps that would otherwise sit in a drawer. You’ll end up with something that’s actually useful, which is my favorite kind of making.

Once you’ve got the basic version down, try small upgrades: add a tassel, use leather letter stamps for initials, color edges with sharpie markers, or switch hardware colors (gold, silver, black) to match your bag. For care, keep it as dry as you can, and condition lightly if it starts to look brittle.

Make a second wristlet keychain while your tools are already out; it’s the easiest way to build a gift stash. If you want another keychain-style idea, grab leather needles and a stitching pony for sewn leather goods; or if you’re not up to that, this personalized leather keychain tutorial is a fun next project to try.

The post DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain (No-Sew, Beginner-Friendly) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Thinking about trying rug tufting at home? This Clawlab review covers the tufting gun, the aluminum frame, and a real project making tufted initials for my kids. When you’re done, check out my LaserPecker LX2 review too! The kit was gifted, and this post includes affiliate links.

In this Clawlab review, you’ll get a clear understanding of my take on setup, ease of use, and what to expect as a first-time tufter.

Some highlights of what you’ll see below include:

• Fast tension on the frame
• A one-hand gun that feels like a lot like a glue gun
• Smooth speed control
• Critiques of a few missing extras – like a yarn mount and a shearing tool.

If you want a compact setup that stores easily, this is a strong option for small rugs and wall decor. I’ll also share tips that saved my second take, like using latex carpet adhesive instead of thin craft glue.

First, you may prefer to watch the in-depth video review to see it in action:

What you get in the Clawlab tufting kit, and what you still need

The Clawlab tufting kit comes ready for a first project, and the differenet tools feel thought out. The frame focuses on tension and portability. The gun focuses on handling and – portability too! It all fits into a streamlined workflow you can pack away and use even if you do not have a dedicated craft room.

In the box: gun, frame, cloth, backing, yarn

• Tufting gun with USB-C to USB-C cable, a power brick, and an EU adapter
• Sturdy aluminum frame with side clamps and a rolling feed bar
• Starter piece of monks cloth (primary cloth), about 36 inches wide
• A piece of carpet backing
• 10 smallish balls of 8‑ply tufting yarn
• Several wire threaders
• A hard case for compact storage

The power cable is long, which helps if your outlet is not close by. The case keeps everything together between sessions.

If you want just one of the elements, you can get them individually – or as a set. Get the Clawlab Tufting Gun, the Clawlab Frame, or the all-in-one Clawlab Kit.

Supplies you’ll probably want to get in addition

• Latex carpet adhesive, not thin craft glue. I tried Mod Podge first. It was too runny, soaked in, and cost more per ounce than proper adhesive. The right glue makes a big difference. I used this latex carpet adhesive.
• Extra monks cloth. The Clawlab cloth gripped better than the generic roll I tried. If you can, get the tufting cloth from Clawlab.
• Backing materials: felt, or felt plus cardboard for stiffness – this is optional. The kit comes with rug backing cloth, but if making something like wall art or other small projects, felt is a great option.
• Fabric scissors, like these sharp fabric scissors
• Rug shaver or shears for finishing
• Markers for sketching your design
• Optional: a projector for transferring and tracing designs.

The included 8‑ply yarn are the ideal weight for your tufting, but it really just comes with a practice amount, so I recommend stocking up on much more yarns.

Thinner acrylic yarns from your stash can work if you double thread them. You’ll use more yardage when you do that.

Who it’s good for

This kit is a great fit for beginners, casual makers, and sellers of small rugs or wall art who want fast setup at home. It is great for small spaces since the gun packs into a case and the frame stores flat. It is less ideal if you need very wide pieces in one pass or want built-in yarn management. You can go long, but you’re limited to the width of the kit. It is good for pros too who don’t need anything wider than the existing width.

Clawlab Frame review: fast tension, solid clamps, easy storage

The frame is where setup stress usually lives when starting out with tufting. Clawlab’s easy to use frame eliminates that. It clamps to a surface, feeds the fabric with a rolling bar, and locks tension with simple knobs. That means you can get the fabric tension tight without wrestling nails or re-stretching again and again.

Setup and clamping in minutes

The side clamps grab a counter or table with a decent lip. Rubberized feet help the frame stand and prevent sliding.

Once it is clamped, it stays put under pressure – even if you’re pushing your gun into it. I mounted it on my kitchen counter and was tufting within minutes. If your desk has drawers right below the work surface, pick a surface with a few inches of depth so the clamps can have what to hold onto.

Tension knobs and rolling feed explained

The top bar has hook and loop to grab the monks cloth.

You roll the cloth onto the bar, seat the rod in the side notches, then feed it down through the upper and then lower bar slots. Pull about 7 cm of cloth through before you lock it. That little bit matters.

After that, crank the lower knob, make sure it clicks into place. Attach the fabric to the side bars and then crank the top knob. Keep turning until the fabric sounds tight when you tap it. You want that crisp, drum-like feel. It’ll take you a try or to to totally get the hang of it but once you do, it’ll be super easy.

Portability and build quality

The frame is thick aluminum, so it is sturdy but still light enough to carry with one hand. I could move it along with the gun in the other hand without a problem. It stores flat and slides behind a shelf or into a closet. If you do not have a craft room, that portability matters.

Limits to know before you buy

You need full-width cloth to get side-to-side tension, and you will use a few extra inches to lock it in. The width is fixed, not modular. If you plan to do very wide pieces in one pass, that is a constraint. The cloth edges can fuzz a bit when you clamp and release. That is normal for tufting and not a flaw in the frame.

Clawlab Tufting Gun review: one-hand control, quiet power, smooth results

The gun changed the way tufting felt in my hands. Most guns are bulky and two-handed. This one grips like a full-size glue gun, which makes it less intimidating. It is still weighty and solid, just simpler to hold and steer.

Ergonomics and handling

The plastic shell encloses the metal mechanism, so there are fewer exposed parts to catch on things. The one-hand grip is friendly if you deal with wrist or elbow issues. Tendinitis keeps me from lots of crafting experiences, and Clawlab makes tufting still be accessible for me.

Keeping the barrel straight does have a short learning curve, since two-hand models force that alignment. After a few practice passes, straight lines felt natural.

Speed dial and noise

A color bar on the back shifts from green to blue as you twist the dial. There is no numeric readout, but you can count clicks if you care. I outlined on a slower speed, then bumped it up for fills to get tight, even loops. The motor is quiet for a tufting tool. It gets louder when it hits the cloth, but it is still within pleasant ranges for heavy crafting.

Threading, yarn, and tension tips

You thread the gun with the included wire tool. Keep the gun off while threading – I kept forgetting to turn mine off but it seemed to power off on its own.

Leave plenty of yarn slack so the gun can feed smoothly. Before gluing, you’ll want to just yank out those hanging starting threads. 8‑ply tufting yarn fed best. If you use thinner acrylic, double thread it so the pile is full. There is a built-in tension adjuster on the gun, but beginners can leave it alone at first.

Real use: curves, outlines, and jams

Outlines were clean, and the gun handled tight curves nicely. A lighter one-hand body makes it easier to rotate your wrist around a bend without moving your whole body. I had no jams AT ALL while testing. Every hiccup came down to yarn issues, like a knot in the skein or not enough slack. I was absolutely amazed at how smooth the experience was for a beginner.

The hard case keeps the gun, threaders, and cable together so nothing wanders off between sessions.

Hands-on test: tufted kids initials, step by step

For the test project, I made letters for my kids to hang on their walls. I finished four letters total. The A used peach, purple, and orange blocks. The J used orange, green, and yellow to match my redhead’s vibe. I backed the letters with felt and used cardboard in some for extra stiffness.

Plan and sketch mirrored letters

Sketch letters on the back side of the cloth. The loops face the opposite side, so mirror anything directional, like J. Use a ruler for clean block shapes, or use a projector if you want perfect curves and angles. Mark color zones before you start if you plan a color-blocked letter – if you’d like to be very intentional with it. I just winged it.

Outline slow, fill fast for clean loops

Keep the barrel straight and move forward steadily. Do not tilt. Outline first on a low speed to stay on the line. Then fill on a higher speed in tight rows. Keep the rows close for a denser pile. Always keep a lot of the yarn pulled loose so it doesn’t resist the tufting and fail.

Glue, back, and trim for a clean finish

Use latex carpet adhesive and spread it with a scraper or a piece of cardboard. Let it dry fully before trimming. For wall decor, felt makes a neat back, and a layer of cardboard helps the piece stay flat. Trim strays with scissors. A rug shaver will clean the surface faster and crisper than scissors alone.

Results, timing, and cleanup

Each 10 to 11 inch tall letter took about 15 minutes to tuft once set up. Expect yarn fluff on the floor. That is normal. You will use more cloth than the letter size to lock in tension across the frame. That means that you might have some waste. I tufted a small project between the letters (which I’ll share with you) to avoid waste.

The final letters looked bright and bold. After glue and a quick trim, they were ready for hanging.

Conclusion

If you want an easy entry into tufting, this Clawlab review points to a smart pick for a beginner tufting gun and frame.

Pros include fast tension on the frame, portable build, one-hand lightweight gun, quiet motor, smooth results, tidy case. Cons include a fixed frame width (standard for frames but I’d love to see them make it adjustable), no yarn mount, and no shearing tool in the kit.

For first rugs, small wall pieces, and custom initials, it hits the sweet spot of simplicity and control. Add latex carpet adhesive, extra monks cloth, felt backing, and a rug shaver to your list. Ready to try it? Check the current price for the Clawlab Kit, or choose the Clawlab Frame or Clawlab Tufting Gun on their own.

The post Clawlab Review: Tufting Gun and Frame for Beginners (With Kids’ Initials Project) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I’ve been wanting to try crafts that turn plastic lids into sort of buttons, and I figured that winter is the perfect time to give this a try with a plastic lid snowman craft!

This is such a fun and forgiving craft. It’s open-ended, leaving room for creativity. It’s really easy – no special skills required. It doesn’t require you to be precise or get it perfectly right. There are no measurements, there is no template because there is no need for one!

Tips for crafting a plastic lid snowman

Since this is so open-ended, I figured I’d share some general tips for crafting plastic lid snowmen, and some fun ideas I had in mind for them.

Dressing it up

One of the most creative parts of this is dressing up your plastic lid snowmen. This makes it actually a really fun workshop activity, since you can teach the basic process of creating the plastic lid snowmen, and then offer various odds n ends to decorate it.

I created two of these to show you two different ways you can finish them off.

On one, I added earmuffs using faux fur scraps. I used felt to connect the two muffs, but you can also use a chenille stem. That might look cooler as you can allow it to stand up a bit.

For the nose, I used a flat bit of felt but you can also see how I did the nose on my snowman peg dolls for another way to craft a carrot nose from felt.

On the other one, I decided to make a beanie using a scrap of wintry fabric. I cut it into shape and rolled up the bottom, gluing it in place for the turned up rim. Pom poms make this project shine. The carrot nose is a “front view” – I used a tiny orang pom pom for that.

I definitely recommend getting creative with these and dressing them up as you see fit. You can also use a swatch of fabric for the scarf and beads or buttons fly for the buttons. I didn’t add a face (I wanted to keep it simple) but you can make that by gluing on small beads or drawing it on with a fabric marker. You may want to test the marker for bleed first.

Finishing it off

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen – and these are just a few.

Turn it into an ornament – glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.

Use it as a plush figure – I honestly had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini “pet snowman”.

Add it to a keychain – While it’s pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. I’d probably add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.

Put it in a winter sensory bin – I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

What you need to craft a plastic lid snowman

• Two sizes of plastic lids – I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonyfield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it – assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

How to make a plastic lid snowman

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you’d like (do this if it’ll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

I hope you enjoyed making a bottle cap snowman! What’ll you be using yours for? Comment below!

How to Make a Bottle Cap Snowman

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Beginner

Estimated Cost: $1

This adorable little bottle cap snowman is such a fun recycled craft to make for winter! Turn these into ornaments or little dolls for pretend play. They're easier than they look.

Print

Materials

• Two sizes of plastic lids - I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonefield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• White Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it - assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon - 1/4 inch grossgrain ribbon is perfect - or get bundled scraps for projects like these, like I do!
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

Instructions

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you'd like (do this if it'll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

Notes

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen - and these are just a few.

• Turn it into an ornament - glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.
• Use it as a plush figure - I had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini "pet snowman".
• Add it to a keychain - While it's pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. Add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.
• Put it in a winter sensory bin - I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Plastic Lid Snowman – Ornaments or Little Dolls! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

“Mommy, I really want a pickle necklace. A sour pickle necklace! Sour pickles are yummy. They’re not really sour. They’re yum.” is an unconventional request coming from a four-and-a-half year old, but…. challenge accepted!

My kids rarely ask me to make anything – besides for Cricut shirts, that they ask for all the time – and so if my child will present me with the ultimate challenge, how can I say no?

The cool thing about making a polymer clay pickle necklace is that it’s incredibly simple, and you don’t really need to have much experience working with clay to get it to look really good.

I did debate making this from air dry clay – but I wanted to have it done in one session (no drying time.) I will, though, share a basic air dry clay adaptation. If you’re more of an air dry clay person, check out my list of things to make with air drying clay.

One of the coolest things about this beginner polymer clay craft is that it really doesn’t require specialty equipment! It requires just polymer clay and basic hand tools for clay (which can really be improvised with things around the house of the correct shape.) Any clay tool that I recommend in the supplies list can be replaced if you really don’t want to invest in it.

Two ways to make a sour pickle necklace

My original idea was to make a cartoonish pickle necklace, with a “sour face”. And while it did come out quite cute, it’s not perfect (my technique isn’t 100% with working with tiny parts yet) and so I decided to try it again, but in simple. It also feels like not the thing I want my sweet little daughter to wear – and the simple pickle is just so much cuter.

I did include instructions for making both, though. You also have the choice of whether to add the “tail” or not. Again, I REALLY prefer the simple one.

It also lends itself to adding more realistic touches if you’d like, with finishes like chalk pastels. It can be mixed with classier jewelry for a quirky little touch without being overly tacky.

Tips for beginners making this pickle necklace

One of my things I always like to share before approaching a tutorial that I’m not an expert in is: I have a general expertise in crafting. I have done many different craft types in the past, and am at an intermediate level with most.

One of the advantages of teaching from this perspective is the ability to understand what the beginner needs to be taught, rather than what might be thought of as “understood” or a given with a teacher who’s deeper into the journey.

I do my best to do due diligence and not mis-teach anything. However, if you see a bigger expert than me teach something that contradicts my advice (especially since this is mostly about idea sharing, not technique sharing) definitely go with theirs – or at least try both!

However, as someone with a high level of experience in general crafting, there are some tips I can teach from experience here.

Mixing the right colors

I worked with a pack of clay that only had a bright green. While it might be tempting to pick up a pack of a zillion colors, you’re better off getting a high quality clay with fewer colors and mixing up your own. I used DAS Smart air dry clay, and wanted to get a much more muted clay.

This is where color theory comes into play. You can mix in black to get it darker, but it will give you a dull, muddy color. Instead, you mix in a complementary shade to majorly tone down your color. I mixed in too much red, so I pinched off a piece of that and mixed it with a fresh batch of green to get this pickle-perfect shade.

Connecting parts

One rookie mistake when crafting anything with clay is to assume that clay is adhesive and will stick to itself. In reality, you do need to use some sort of liquid clay to connect parts – and usually you’ll want to distress the connection points first. This can be challenging when working with very small pieces.

The basic pickle version of this necklace doesn’t require connecting parts, however the sour face pickle does.

The screw-eye that turns this pickle necklace into a pendant has something to hold it, but it can unscrew. I do recommend baking your clay with it inside, unscrewing it, and gluing it in place after.

Adapting this tutorial for air dry clay

If you want to stick to air dry clay for this, you definitely can! While you can definitely color your plain white air drying clay, you will get a more muted color that way. I recommend simply painting your finished project with craft acrylics!

You will definitely want to seal your project since acrylic paints can chip. You can use polymer clay sealers on air drying clay too.

You’ll also want to avoid very fine parts as air dry clay works better with thicker creations – so skip that tail!

How to make a (sour) pickle necklace

You’ll need

• Polymer clay – a deep green or green and red. I used this set from DAS
• Basic clay tools – I used this tool set from DAS
• An acrylic board
• If adding details, liquid clay
• Something to bake on (a clay-dedicated baking pan, for example)
• A screw eye
• A pendant bail
• Glue (such as Weldbond or E6000)

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Tutorial

1. If you don’t have the right color, mix it up. I added some red to bright green to get this pickle-y green.

As you mix it with your hands, you’re also conditioning it.

2. Take a small piece (about the size of a small olive). Place it on a smooth surface.

3. Use your acrylic board to roll it into a small cylinder. The benefit of using the board for this is that you avoid fingerprints. Avoiding using fingers to shape as much as possible helps to minimize prints.

4. Round off the ends (I did do this part with my hands.)

5. Use the acrylic board to roll very gently a little more on one end, tilting it slightly, to give you that slightly irregular shape.

6. Use your fingers to gently curve it and smooth any creases.

7. If you’d like to add a tail, form a little hole. Create a thin rope, dab a bit of glue into the hole, and insert the tail, using the pick tool to help you.

8. Use the ball tip tool to add texture.

9. If you’d like you can create a face. Make two tiny white balls (mine are too big!) Add them to the pickle using liquid glue. When you press it on, you’ll naturally form two tiny wells for the pupil.

10. Use the pick tool to fill those two tiny holes with two tiny black balls – of course, using liquid clay to connect it.

11. I did mess up a bit with the mouth (I should have taken it off and redone it) but it’s a rope, connected the same way. Use a smoother tool to connect that. The nose is a ball of the same color, formed as I connected it between the eyes. I pressed it in with the pick tool where the nostrils should be.

12. Screw in your eye hook. Bake according to package instructions, remove the eye hook, and glue back in.

Your polymer clay pickle necklace is complete! What will you make yours from? Comment below!

The post Sour Pickle Necklace from Polymer Clay appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

In the 90’s and early 00’s, before we had phones to keep our hands busy, we had “fidget” crafts. You know what I mean… Friendship bracelets. Boondoggle. Holographic pastel seed bead bracelets.

Among these crafts that work to keep the hands busy is the origami star from paper strips. A simple folding process makes a fun little puffy star – and is easy to make by the dozen.

The paper strips can be purchased pre-cut and glued together on one end so that they don’t make a mess. It may take a few tries to really get the hang of it, but the more you make, the more you’ll want to – and the better they’ll be coming out!

What to use your puffy origami star from paper strips for

So is this an exclusively “fidget” craft or is it actually useful? Honestly, most people make it just for fun. But yes, it can be useful, and here are some of my favorite ways.

To make it look really nice, use different shades of yellow (it’ll look like a solid color but give a little texture). Or choose a cohesive color scheme.

Confetti

If you’re decorating for Christmas, for a summer picnic, a fairy party, graduation, or anything where stars are a fit, you can use these as less-messy confetti. Team up to make piles of it and scatter them on the table, toss them in the air…

Fill a jar decor

On that note, you can also make them to fill decorative containers (such as candle holders, cylinder vases) as centerpieces. You’ll definitely need a lot of them to fill ‘er up – but this is one of those crafts that is addictive and fun to make a lot of!

“Pick a chore/activity/wish jar”

The stars can easily be folded, so you can write anything you’d like on it before folding! This is a fun way to do any “pick a” type jars – whether it’s for a family or a party! You can combine this with the idea above, writing a fortune or wish on each and having partygoers pick one from the centerpiece.

What you need to make an origami star from paper strips

• Paper strips
• A ready pair of hands

How to make puffy origami stars

I’m going to go into as much nitty gritty details as I can in case you don’t have access to the images, but the photos really say it best. First, if you’d like you can watch the YouTube video:

1. Start with a paper strip. Lay it flat on your surface.

2. Create a loose knot, leaving about 1cm on one side.

3. Flatten out your knot into a pentagon shape. This is the base of your origami star from paper strips. Proportionally, the piece sticking out should be slightly longer than the diameter of the pentagon.

4. Fold that extra bit over to the other side, so that it’s flush on the bottom of the pentagon and reaches the other side that connects to the bottom.

5. Tuck whatever is leftover between the layers of the knotted pentagon and the extra strip.

6. Now you’re going to start “wrapping” that extra bit of paper around your pentagon until it’s finished. Again, this is something that’ll become easier as you make more as it requires some “instinct” with the direction that you’re wrapping in. Fold over your paper so that it reaches the side opposite.

Fold it under again to the opposite side.

Fold it over and under again until you only have a little bit – not enough for a complete fold.

7. Tuck that little extra bit between the layers of your star. Crease into place.

8. Use your nail to poke the sides – between the corners – in, allowing the front and back of the star to puff out. Again, it might make a few tries to really get the hang of this, but once you do it a few times, you’ll “nail” it (ouch).

Repeat with all five sides to complete your origami star from paper strips!

What will you be using yours for? Comment below!

Yield: Dozens

DIY Origami Wish Stars

Active Time: 1 minute

Total Time: 1 minute

Difficulty: Easy

Estimated Cost: $5

Make these tiny origami wish stars from paper strips! Write a message on them first and fill a jar, use them as confetti, or just enjoy them as a fun fidget craft.

Print

Materials

• Paper Strips

Instructions

1. Start with a paper strip. Lay it flat on your surface.

2. Create a loose knot, leaving about 1cm on one side.

3. Flatten out your knot into a pentagon shape. This is the base of your origami star from paper strips. Proportionally, the piece sticking out should be slightly longer than the diameter of the pentagon.

4. Fold that extra bit over to the other side, so that it's flush on the bottom of the pentagon and reaches the other side that connects to the bottom.

5. Tuck whatever is leftover between the layers of the knotted pentagon and the extra strip.

6. Now you're going to start "wrapping" that extra bit of paper around your pentagon until it's finished. Again, this is something that'll become easier as you make more as it requires some "instinct" with the direction that you're wrapping in. Fold over your paper so that it reaches the side opposite.

7. Fold it under again to the opposite side. Fold it over and under again until you only have a little bit - not enough for a complete fold.

8. Tuck that little extra bit between the layers of your star. Crease into place.

9. Use your nail to poke the sides - between the corners - in, allowing the front and back of the star to puff out. Again, it might make a few tries to really get the hang of this, but once you do it a few times, you'll "nail" it (ouch).

Repeat with all five sides to complete your origami star from paper strips!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Origami Star from Paper Strips appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I had a very good reason to make a fresh DIY Tiara Headband this summer. I went to Sweet Suite, a toy show for content creators and influencers, and this year was their Sweet 16. That felt like a perfect excuse to go all in on sparkle.

I decided to make a crystal beaded tiara headband for myself, which I can then pass on to my daughter A. She is a full-on diva and never turns down a chance to dress up, so she was all over this project the second she saw the crystals.

Where you’ll want to wear your DIY tiara headband

This tiara isn’t just for pretend! It’s gorgeous and can be worn at an actual Sweet Sixteen party. Use it as a princess accessory for a costume or as a “birthday crown”.

This is elegant enough to craft for a flower girl to wear at a wedding. And while I wouldn’t quite put it on a bride, you can definitely adapt my tutorial to create a more mature design than the simple crown shape to make it for a bride.

Tips for making a DIY tiara headband

Wire gauge – striking the right balance

This DIY tiara headband uses wire as its structure, and to form the base. Wire comes in different sizes called gauge – the higher the gauge the thicker the wire.

I used two sizes.

• 18 gauge wire – I used this for the structure of the DIY tiara headband. It has good solid structure while still being quite pliable for beginners. It also fits nicely in the beads. Go too big and it’ll actually break the beads and be too hard to work with.
• 20 gauge wire – this still has good structure, but is a bit more pliable. I used this to wrap and add structure and strength to my tiara.

Choosing your beads

You can absolutely make a DIY tiara headband with just about any beads. I chose crystals because of their sparkle factor – and yes, there’s just something so compelling to it.

While you don’t need to stick to crystals, keep in mind hole size when choosing. While this would look fabulous with pearls, natural pearls are usually drilled much smaller. You can get special large-hole pearls for this, or use glass pearls (again, check the hole size.)

Really, this can be made with any glass bead, however, keep in mind that the gorgeous cut of the Swarovski crystal is what makes it so sparkly. I even used their AB coated ones that have an extra iridescent finish for bonus sparkle. FYI they are no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, just pick up another brand crystal.

Getting the “magic” look

One cool trick I used here was to put it on a black headband. Since both A and I have very dark hair, this makes the headband disappear and it looks like the flat crown is perched right on our heads and magically staying in place!

The look is really easy to achieve on darker hair. For lighter hair tones, try for bronze or gold toned headbands – whatever blends best with the hair color.

How to make a DIY tiara headband – step by step process

What you’ll need

• 18 and 20 gauge copper wire
• Wire nippers
• Jewelry pliers – I used a mix of chain nose pliers and nylon jaw pliers
• A metal base headband close to the wearer’s hair color
• Crystal beads – I used a mix of 8mm and 6mm Swarovski crystal round beads. Note: Swarovski is no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, get good quality crystals.

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Tutorial

1. Choose the beads you plan to use. I stuck with soft beige, blush, and light blue (almost silvery) beads.

2. String them onto the 18 gauge wire as follows: 5 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 5 6-mm beads. Don’t cut the wire from the spool just yet.

3. Take the tip of the wire Wrap it around the headband a few times. It should be a few inches off center (you’ll be able to reposition it a bit).

4. Snip off any excess from the open end that you wrapped if needed.

5. We’re going to start shaping our crown! The first five 6-mm beads form the left side of the crown. Pull that down so that the bottom one sits against the headband, and the next form a line going up.

6. Bend your wire back a bit right above those beads.

7. Bring your 8 mm bead down. Curve the wire down around it.

8. You should now have your first point with a bead inside it. Squish it with pliers right under the 8mm bead if you need to refine the shape. Now bring three of your 6mm beads up to form a triangle.

9. Bend the wire up right below those three beads to form the valley between the spokes of the crown. The next three 6-mm beads will form the other half of that V.

10. Keep on going with the rest of the beads, allowing the 8mm beads to be the spokes of the crown, the second set of six split in half to form another V, and the last set of five forming the right side of the crown.

11. Trim your wire off the spool to a few inches from the end of the beads. Wind it around the headband a few times to secure it in place.

You now have a basic crown shape formed on your headband. You can tweak it a bit if you’d like at this point to refine it. We’re now going to stabilize the whole thing.

12. Take the 20 gauge wire and cut about a 6-inch segment. Center it on the wire below the larger spoke bead.

13. Wind it around a few times in that space below the bead (and over it a bit if you need to). Wind one side at a time. When you’re happy with it, trim it.

14. Do this for all three spokes. Position your crown where you like it on the headband and use your pliers to squash the wire wrap down in those spots to secure the crown.

15. We’re now going to form a base for our crown. String about 6 6-mm beads (depending on the final width of your crown – it should fill that space at the base.) I used 20 gauge wire here because it’s anyway sitting on the headband.

16. Hold that bit of wire up against the headband at the base of that crown. Wrap it a few times around the headband on each side, so that it sits flush on the headband. Repeat with the other side.

17. Take another piece of wire (20mm) and wrap it around the beads – between each bead – and around the headband at the ends.

18. Trim that wire. Your DIY tiara headband is complete and ready to wear!

Who will you be making this DIY tiara headband for? Comment below!

The post DIY Tiara Headband – Wire Wrapped Crystal Crown appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I recently realized that I majorly neglect creating winter crafts. With this season so busy, and a lot of my energies directed into creating beautifully curated gift guides, I find that the season goes by too fast.

But I’m working on switching that this year, with a few new winter-focused ideas and today, I’m starting with snowman peg dolls that have been on my “to craft” list for years!

Ways to use snowman peg dolls

As with any peg doll, these snowman peg dolls are so versatile! I crafted these for use in with this 2-ingredient fake snow but you can make them for really just about any winter purpose. Here are some ideas:

• Peg dolls make great pretend play toys! You can use it with anything that comes with small figures, such as Little People play or small dollhouses. Bring these out to mix things up for winter-themed play.
• In sensory bins. Use this to play with Instant Snow or in any winter-themed sensory bin.
• Use these as a focal point in a DIY snow globe
• These make fabulous embellishments in any winter scene – a diorama, a Christmas village…
• Glue on a ribbon to turn them into adorable little ornament

There’s really so many things you can do with this – whether you’re popping it into the toy bin, or making it for something specific!

Tips for crafting snowman peg dolls

This is a pretty straightforward craft that can be crafted different ways, but here are some tips for getting it right the first time.

Choosing your peg dolls

Peg dolls come in many different shapes, sizes, and styles. You can actually get snowman shaped ones, but I wanted to add more texture to mine so I wanted it without the hat.

I got a multi-pack so that I have options for different crafts, and chose a larger sized one with a straight body as the closest match.

I like to get my peg dolls from Woodpeckers because I know they’ll be high quality, and support a New Jersey based small business. You can get them on Amazon, or directly from them. If purchasing direct, use code MOMSANDCRAFTERS for 5% off your purchase.

Dressing it up

To dress up your snowman peg dolls, pull out those fabric and felt scraps! You can also use ribbons, buttons, beads, and of course, markers.

Try using winter textured fabric, such as tweed, felt, fleece, and corduroy for your accessories.

On one, I made a beanie hat. I did this using scrap tweed that I bought eons ago to make a skirt. I made a scarf using soft corduroy I had in my scrap bin.

On the other, I made a felt top hat. I perched it at an angle for a little character. I also cut off the finished edge of a fleece blanket (that I purchased to cut apart for crafts) for the scarf on this one.

I used finished/crafting wooden branches for the arms, but you can also pick twigs from outside. I used wooden beads for the buttons, but of course, if you have small buttons, use those. And the nose was hacked from a small bit of rolled up/folded felt.

I drew on the face using a paint marker (this set is double sided, with the fine side perfect for projects like this).

Variations and more ideas

This is one of those crafts that you can make a zillion times and each time it comes out different! Here are a few ideas:

• As I mentioned, use twigs from outdoors for the arms
• Again, you can use buttons for the buttons.
• Pull out the pom poms! They are fabulous for winter crafts. Tiny ones can be used as buttons, and you can use one on the hat.
• Try making the hat from bits of an old knit sweater
• The scarf can also be made using ribbon.
• Want to make earmuffs instead of a hat? Cut two small circles of felt and connect them with a thin pipe cleaner.
• Use glitter paint as a top coat to add some snow-inspired shimmer.

The possibilities for these snow man peg dolls are really endless, so pull out all your craft stuff and get creative!

How to craft snowman peg dolls

Watch the video, or scroll down for the step by step tutorial.

Materials

• Peg dolls (see notes above)
• White acrylic craft paint
• Paint Brush
• Scraps of felt and fabric
• Odds and ends like buttons, beads, pom poms, twigs
• Detail scissors
• Hot glue gun – you can check out my rundown of the best glue guns for crafts. I used this one for this craft.
• Paint markers

Process

1. Paint your peg doll white. One layer will likely give it a stained look. A second layer will look opaque. Dry time should be pretty quick.

Making the beanie hat

2. To make the beanie, cut a small rectangle. It should be slightly wider than the circumference and higher than you want it to be.

3. Roll it up twice from the bottom, keeping it as small as you can, hot gluing in place.

4. Glue one end to the other to form a circle that will be the circumference of your hat.

5. Sew a running stitch around the hat at the point where you want the hat height to end. Pull it tight.

6. Wrap thread around that point to make it as tight as you can.

7. A few stitches back and forth through the hat should finalize the shape of the beanie.

8. You can either trim off the extra and glue on a pom pom. Or, cut fringe into the extra instead to make a pom pom.

To make a top hat

9. Cut a felt circle the size you want the brim of the hat to be – a bit wider than the head of the peg doll. Cut a felt strip the height you want the hat to be. The length should be big enough to form a circle smaller than the brim, with a bit extra for gluing.

10. Glue the strip, connecting both sides to form the main part of the tophat. Using hot glue sparingly, glue the ring on the center of the felt circle.

11. Measure the circumference of the ring and use that to create the top of the tophat. Again, using hot glue sparingly, glue that on top.

Finishing it up

12. Glue the hats on the peg dolls.

13. Create carrot noses by rolling up a tiny scrap of felt, gluing it in place. Use detail scissors to cut it into shape.

13. Glue it in the center of the face.

14. Glue on 2-3 beads as buttons.

15. Draw on button eyes and mouth. I didn’t use glue-ons for this because it’s so small and I felt it would be excessive.

16. Cut a strip of fabric for a scarf. Cut a bit of fringe on the side if you want.

17. Wrap it around the neck of the peg doll. Tie it or glue it in place.

18. Glue on sticks for arms.

Your snowman peg dolls are complete! Which peg dolls would you like to see next? Comment below!

The post Snowman Peg Dolls appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Looking for gift ideas for a creative person? These ideas will be a hit with any creative! Check out my full list of gift guides for all ages and occasions. This post contains affiliate links and gifted product.

When it comes to getting gifts for creatives there are so many different directions you can take! Not all creatives are alike – some prefer art, some crafts, and some are more advanced creators than others.

Some may stick to creating as a hobby, some may just be creative and not do much about it on the regular, and some might be career artists or crafters. Some might just have creative-adjacent careers.

This list of gift ideas for a creative person has something for all of the above!

Loads of Gift Ideas for a Creative Person

Creative-adjacent Gift Ideas for a Creative Person

Over the years, I’ve assembled a number of gift idea lists for creative people. One of my favorite things to include are gift ideas for a creative person that is not directly an art or craft material. Rather, it is fitting for a creative person’s lifestyle. These creative-adjacent gifts are super fun for creatives to receive.

CINCOM Hand Massagers

The hand fatigue is real! Many creatives experience hand problems, ranging from repetitive stress injuries to simple fatigue. CINCOM’s hand massagers offer comfort and relief for all of the above. I suffer from tendinitis specifically, which flares up from both crafting and writing this blog – and it’s been so comforting for me!

Probably most unique of these creative-adjacent gift ideas for creatives, this one is fabulous for crocheters, artists, tufters, or anyone who does things regularly that lead to hand strain.

CINCOM offers a few types of hand massagers so you can choose one that best fits the recipients needs. I recommend reading their buying guide for the clearest breakdown but in a nutshell:

• For a standard hand massager for average size hands, get the Classic 1.0 – Model CM-026H.
• For a more spacious interior, touch screen, better performance, and an upgraded more immersive massage, get the Comfort 2.0 – Model CM-088H.
• For a more personalized massage that includes individual fingers, a 4D massage head, adaptive pressure, targeted heat, and more, get SmartTouch 3.0 –  Model CM-096H.

All of them include different modes, intensity settings, and heat for a fabulous soothing experience. And they can be purchased using HSA & FSA!

Scribble Art – photo book with artwork

What do you do with kids’ artwork? What do you do with YOUR artwork?

Scribble Art has super cool technology that I got to test with my kids’ artwork. They create amazing quality hardcover art books to save those creations. You can photograph crafts, LEGO creations, or anything creative kids OR adults make.

We created books in a few sizes, and even included some photos of the artists in them – especially on the covers.

Simply scan the artwork and it removes the background, replaces it with a solid one for a pop of color, and straightens and enhances the image. We photographed A&J’s school projects, M’s origami, Y’s canvas and wood art. They even make custom wrapping paper with artwork (we put Y’s flamingo on it). The kids loved seeing their artwork in a “real” book!

If you want something more close to creativity but not an actual supply. Can get code if don’t have access to artwork, but super cool to surprise a friend with a social account where they share their artwork, or your kids.

Craft Kits & Quality Supplies

The go to gift ideas for a creative person are the tools of their creativity! Besides for being an endless niche, art and craft supplies are generally consumables and we can always use more. And even when we can’t use more, we still want more.

But which ones should you get? Especially if you’re not a creative yourself, but even if you are, it can be hard to navigate such a huge market. These gift ideas for a creative person are winners in our home and I’m sure your loved one will enjoy it too.

POSCA Water Based Paint Markers 16 Colors

Quality matters when it comes to art supplies. And there’s no question that POSCA are the leaders in paint markers – and my personal go-to when I’m creating something I actually care about. Their rich colors, reliable opaque coverage, and long lasting paint make for a premium experience.

The 16-pack offers plenty of color variety for both artists and crafters who are looking for a reliable paint markers. This is a classic “wishlist” item for so many creatives, it’ll be a win for sure. In fact, it’ll probably be a “how did you know it’s exactly what I wanted?” item.

Diamond Art Club Mini Dazzles – Diamond Painting Around the World

Diamond painting is a truly meditative process – one that’s relaxing to do with a podcast, music, or even as an at-home date. And it doesn’t require any learned skills. Here’s another one where quality matters. Diamond Art Club has drills (that’s the gems) with consistent sizes, gorgeous colors and specialty finishes, and adhesive that is top notch. Their kits come with everything needed – including the applicator and putty, trays, and this one even comes with multi-drill tips.

The Mini Dazzles are beginner-friendly kits, featuring small designs on canvas fabric. The square drills cover all the spots -meaning you’re really painting the picture with them. The Around the World series features landmarks (pictured here is part 1). Yes, there are SIX mini artworks to create with everything included for under 20 bucks at the time of publishing this! (Prices are subject to change).

My kids saw me doing this and got jealous, which was okay because there were kits for them too (see them in my gift ideas for 9 year old boys and 12 year old boys).

Save 20% off your first purchase with Diamond Art Club®. Use the first link below and the discount code MOMS20!

Pour Palz

For a super fun and dynamic crafting experience that requires absolutely no patience, Pour Palz is a win! It takes the pour painting trend and gives you a solid figurine to go to town on.

The kit comes with everything you need to mix and layer paints and pour it over the figure. Paints are pre-mixed and it comes with protection for the surface, hands, and clothing too. And if you’re looking for something smaller, they make keychains too.

I love how my bear came out. Pour painting requires some use of color theory, and the kit is well made in that respect. I used lots of layers and the colors blended nicely to soft purple tones, with the blues, pinks, and gold showing through. When it’s fully dry, I plan to take a permanent marker to it and doodle! It’s also reallyl fun to use as an autograph bear after crafting.

Mindware Run the Runway Fashion Design Set

I first got to learn about Mindware’s Run the Runway Fashion Design kit at a toy expo called Toy Fair and I was floored. It’s the gift of my fashion-sketching, crafting childhood dreams. The kit comes PACKED with loads of fashion odds and ends – from notions to fabric, from closures to decorations… And it comes with mini mannequins to set up the designs on!

Kids (and kids at heart) can then create scaled down creations. It does come with some patterns and ideas that are totally optional to use. The clothing can be arranged on the mannequin without permanently adhering it by poking it into the teeth at the back. Or, it can be sewn together permanently as fun fashion doll outfits.

It allows kids room for creativity while providing a structure and entry-level understanding of how patterns and garment making works.

Cahve Ring Carving and Casting Kit

You may have seen my pomegranate ring in some of my craft videos – did you know that I made it?!

Cahve is an incredible experience. Their kit includes everything needed to carve a model ring out of wax. The main kit includes a casting voucher as well. You send your carving back to them, along with any specifications, and they actually make it for you.

The photos elow include the kit, my carving, and the final cast ring.

Art Gift Ideas for a Creative Person

For those who aren’t creatives themselves, the distinction between art and craft might not be as clear. Although there is lots of overlap, art usually focuses on the expression and appearance of a creative work, and craft usually focuses on creating a functional end.

These gift ideas for a creative person really highlight the art aspect of it.

For Teens and Adults – Ohuhu Honolulu S (alcohol illustration markers)

For illustrators, art markers are a luxurious necessity. Alcohol markers are highly blendable markers that don’t soak the page so they can be layered seamlessly for gorgeous results. This is the kind of art supply where having a larger range of colors really makes getting the target result much easier.

Ohuhu is an amazing brand that strikes the balance of affordable price point with a high quality product. Their Honolulu S-range of alcohol markers features dual brush and soft chisel tips – the perfect combination for artists to get bold shadows and smooth blends.

It’s a fabulous gift for teens who are responsible enough to use an alcohol marker and adults. Go for the widest color range in your budget – pictured is the 60 color set.

For Tweens – Art Cafe Meditative Painting Kits

I love discovering new craft kits from small businesses and Art Cafe was another I learned about on-location. Their simple art kits feature a coffee theme and are relaxing and meditative.

Simply drop paint from the ready-made, fluid-art friendly mini squeeze bottles onto a rimmed coffee lid. The rim keeps everything neat and contained. Play around with pattern and shape and drag the paint into different blends.

Each kit comes with one base cup that stores the supplies, plus four lids to create artwork on. They can be mounted on nails easily due to the rim, but I hope to back mine and put a magnet on it.

The whole process art experience is very calming and unintimidating. It’s ready to craft right outside of the box and doesn’t require any existing skills.

For Younger Kids – OOLY Cat Parade

What about younger creatives? For kids of any age who love to make art, I recommend OOLY’s Cat Parade gel crayons. They can be used as standalone crayons, or as watercolor crayons if you blend them with a wet brush.

The color is rich but the crayons don’t melt, and the cute design makes this such a fun gift to give and to receive.

For Toddlers – Little Partners Easel

For the youngest artists in the home, a high quality wooden easel will get years of love. This one from Little Partners is durable and includes storage. One side is a whiteboard, and one side is a chalkboard.

It has a center mounted paper roll – pull it through the top center, down through the holder slot, and to the clips on the bottom of the whiteboard side. Plenty of space for art supply storage makes this folding easel a win in our house.

Craft Equipment and Tools

If you’re looking for mid-range or high end gift ideas for a creative person, it’s time to start thinking about serious crafting gear! These are perfect to purchase as a gift for a spouse or someone very close. Some of these are fabulous earners – that is, craft business tools!

3Doodler Pro

The 3Doodler pro takes the viral 3D printing pen to the next level. This model has many more features, temperature settings and is compatible with a huge range of materials.

I love making things like earrings, small sculptures, and more with it. You can go functional or artsy – it’s a real fusion of art and craft in one fun little gadget! And it comes with plenty of filament to get any artist creating.

Clawlab Tufting Gun and/or Frame

Rug tufting is an “on-trend” hobby now, and while this kit can totally make real rugs, I have lots of fun making smaller projects with it! I crafted these initials for my kids (they absolutely adore them).

Clawlab’s tufting gun and frame can be purchased as a set (which includes starter materials) or as standalone gifts.

They are unique and innovative – the gun takes tufting from heavy machinery to lightweight “glue gun” and the frame eliminates a lot of the work of getting the frame taught. I did a whole review and project demo on YouTube for this one, so you can watch it here:

LaserPecker LP5

If you have someone you want to get a really special gift for, a laser engraver is an incredible one. Besides for majorly upgrading any craft business with endless personalization opportunities, I personally find it just so much fun to craft things for myself.

The LaserPecker LP5 is a portable/small space laser engraver that has two laser types built in that allows it to engrave and cut much more materials. It’s great for entry-level engravers, for adding to a craft business for onsite craft-fair customization, or for small spaces.

Read my full Laserpecker LP5 review here to understand this device better.

Worx MakerX Rotary Tool

A good rotary tool is a must-have for every creative! This one from Worx is a hybrid system that can be connected to other tools from the line. It’s semi-cordless with a rechargeable battery that connects to the tool and has speed controls on the battery/base.

Craft Books: Activities Instruction

When you’re in doubt for gift giving, a craft book is usually a win! Whether it’s one that is actually an activity book, or one that teaches new skills, it’s an easy gift to add to any creative’s collection.

Drawing Dinosaurs: How to Draw Scientifically Accurate Prehistoric Creatures

We have more than one dino-obsessed person in this house, and Drawing Dinosaurs by Brian Vitocruz is a super cool book for kids and adults! It breaks down the drawing process of scientifically-accurate dinos so that it can be easily replicated.

Beyond teaching the specifics of drawing each dinosaur, it also shows fundamentals of drawing in general.

Tunisian Crochet: A Stitch Dictionary with 501 Stitches to Explore

This book by Lori Harrison is effectively a stitch dictionary, that offers over 500 new ones to try! It focuses on Tunisian crochet techniques and is fabulous for anyone who loves to crochet – and expand their skills.

This is not a pattern book – there are no actual projects, just new stitches to try, that can be used in any project. It’s great for those creators who like to actually be creative with their crochet and have a solid understanding of crochet concepts.

Each stitch comes with a chart with key as well as written instructions for each round.

Paint by Sticker Kids Trucks, Trains, and more

Paint by Sticker is an old favorite of ours and the concept is simple: match the shaped sticker to the correct numbered spot on the art page. This completes the puzzle. It’s perfect for kids who love stickers at any age where they can match numbers and have the dexterity to place the stickers.

The Trucks, trains, & more version is fabulous for that truck-obsessed kid. It’ll provide hours of tangible fun for kids who love to create something they can be proud of when they’re done.

Got any gift ideas for a creative person to add to this list? Comment below and let me know!

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