Making Signs With Cricut: HTV vs Infusible Ink on Canvas
Learn everything you need to know about making signs with Cricut machines, including which materials work best on stretched canvas, and a hands-on comparison of HTV and Infusible Ink. Make this post easier but checking out my post on what is Cricut BrightPad used for. This post contains affiliate links.
Almost since the day we moved into our current home over a year ago, I’ve been planning on making a black-on-white sign to prop on our bathroom shelves.
And I finally did it, grabbing the opportunity to compare two ways to make canvas signs with the Cricut: Infusible Ink and Iron-on or HTV (Heat Transfer Vinyl).
In this post:
- Is HTV or Infusible Ink better for Making Signs with Cricut?
- Infusible Ink on Canvas for Cricut Signs
- Can you use HTV on Canvas?
- What you need for making signs with Cricut
- Cricut Equipment and Tools
- Materials for Infusible Ink on Canvas
- Materials for HTV on Canvas
- How to Make Canvas Signs with your Cricut
- Making Signs with Cricut using Infusible Ink on Canvas
- How to Make Cricut Signs using HTV on Canvas
I did not have black Infusible Ink handy so I stuck with a textured dark blue.
There’s no question that the HTV won hands down for me. It’s less fussy to apply to a surface like canvas, much sharper, and much, much cheaper. It also comes in longer sizes, making large signs (like the 10×20 inch one) easier to create.
Another fabulous method for making signs is making Cricut stencils on a wood base. While this can be done on a canvas too, due to the heavily textured base, you will want to start with a layer of Mod Podge first.
But now for the methods that I’m comparing here with these two bathroom signs…
Is HTV or Infusible Ink better for Making Signs with Cricut?
Infusible Ink on Canvas for Cricut Signs
There is a major benefit to using Infusible Ink for making signs with Cricut: it becomes part of the canvas, rather than sitting on top. Infusible Ink comes as sheets with an ink on the surface that stains the base when extreme heat is applied.
However, there are a few major downsides to using Infusible Ink on cavas:
- First of all, Infusible Ink works best with simpler, larger designs. If you’re making something very text-heavy, it’ll be very challenging to weed your design and keep all the pieces. It’s also hard to control the weeded bits, especially without losing parts of your actual design. So for making larger wall art it can make sense, however, for text based designs it was not the best option.
- Second, Infusible Ink comes in 12×12 sheets. If you’re making a larger sign, you’ll need to split your design. HTV comes in longer sheets, and even large rolls (more on that soon).
- Infusible Ink requires high heat for a longer period, and zero movement, to transfer successfully. I found that the canvas burnt too easily for this. You also need to do a reverse canvas for this to work since you need too stable a surface to make supporting the canvas up to Infusible Ink standards practical.
Ultimately, I got a functional but imperfect design using Infusible Ink on canvas. It burnt (visible only from the back), I lost some details (that you might not know were there to begin with. And the part that might be fixed with more practice: I did have a bit of movement that resulted in an unsharp design, as well as a few stray pieces from weeding that got in the way.
So can you use Infusible Ink on a stretched canvas? Yes. Should you? If you’re a pro you might get better results. But if you’re in the position that you’re asking this question, you should expect to have to have lots of practice, trial, and error before you get polished results.
A good idea would be to start out with simpler designs on a canvas panel rather than a stretched canvas.
Can you use HTV on Canvas?
Yes! HTV, or Iron-on as Cricut calls it, is a fabulous choice for stretched canvas. Your main challenge will be supporting the canvas internally. You can also do this using the reverse canvas method, however, I wanted a very minimalist sign for my bathroom. I supported the canvas from the inside with a folded up towel, over my Cricut EasyPress mat.
I did have to re-press bits of it when I tried peeling my backing, but it wasn’t a big deal and the final result is gorgeous.
A few reasons I prefer using HTV on canvas for making Cricut signs:
- Larger sizes: Cricut Iron-on comes in sizes that are more compatible with sign-making. I wanted a 10×20 inch canvas to make use of the height of my powder room ceiling. The cut was 18 inches. I used Smart Iron-on in my Maker 3 to get this easily in a single cut.
- Easier to weed: Especially when using smart materials, weeding is so much easier! It took me five minutes to weed this relatively complex and detailed sign. And I did it while chatting with relatives…
- More cost-effective: Infusible Ink can get pricey. For many projects it’s worth it (such as mugs, coasters, and even these Cricut shirts that we made for my boys.) However, for making signs with Cricut, I didn’t feel that the results were “premium” like for other projects. Stenciling would be a better way to get those premium results.
- More predictable results, more foolproof: Iron-on gets you more consistently clean results – especially for non-experts. Note: I’m not even saying “beginners.” I’m just leaving the possibility out there that a true expert might nail down the perfect system for using Infusible Ink on canvas, however, for you and me and our typical crafting buddies, Iron-on is simply easier to work with and get pretty results.
At the end of the day, HTV is my go-to choice for making signs with Cricut, especially when I prefer NOT to stencil.
I hope you enjoy this bathroom sign inspiration while learning all about making signs with Cricut! You can grab my project right here.
What you need for making signs with Cricut
Cricut Equipment and Tools
- Cricut cutting machine – I used the Maker 3
- Fine Point Blade
- StandardGrip Mat (not needed if using Smart Materials)
- Brayer (not needed if using Smart Materials)
- Weeding tool
- EasyPress (I used the EasyPress 2 9×9) and EasyPress Mat
- Heat resistant tape
- Ruler
Materials for Infusible Ink on Canvas
- Infusible Ink transfer sheet
- Canvas (mine is 8×10 inches)
- Craft Knife (I used Cricut’s Truecontrol in Lilac)
- Staple gun
- Hanging nails
- Hammer
- String – I used simple white cotton twine
- Scissors
- Lint roller
Materials for HTV on Canvas
- Iron-on – I used Cricut’s Smart Iron-on in black
- If using a large Smart Iron-on roll, I highly recommend the roll holder too
- Canvas – I used a 10×20 inch tall and skinny canvas
- Towel to use as support for the canvas
How to Make Canvas Signs with your Cricut
Making Signs with Cricut using Infusible Ink on Canvas
1. For this one, I made a reverse canvas. To prepare it, cut around the staples on the back using a knife to remove the canvas from the frame.
2. Trim the canvas portion to fit behind the frame, leaving enough to staple it back on but not too much that’ll stick out around the frame.
3. Measure how big you want your design to be WITH the frame in place (don’t reattach it).
4. Set up your design in Design Space and send the design to cut. Make sure to mirror your design. Adhere the material well to the mat, ink side up, using a brayer. Load and cut.
5. To remove from the mat without curling, place it upside down on your surface and peel the mat away from the material.
6. To help you weed your design, bend back the material in the spots you’re cutting.
Don’t worry if it cuts like this. Next time I’ll need to use more pressure, however, as long as the inked portion is removed, the design in that spot won’t transfer.
7. Use a lint roller to clean your canvas. Any surface debris will interrupt the print transfer.
8. Tape your design on well using heat resistant tape. This step is important, as any shift or movement of your transfer sheet will result in ghosting.
9. Place the canvas with the design attached on the mat and cover with butcher paper (this comes with your Infusible Ink transfer sheets). Find the instructions on Cricut’s Heat Guide and set accordingly. I did mine at 385 for 40 seconds with light pressure.
10. Remove the design according to the instructions.
11. Staple the canvas onto the frame. Place the frame on the surface so that the ugly side with the staples and trim are face up. Place the canvas design-face-down on top. Staple at the corners, at the center of each side, and then add staples in between as needed.
12. Hammer in small picture hanging nails about 1-1.5 inches from each edge on the back of the top frame of the design. Make sure not to hammer it through to the front – it can stick out.
13. Knot a piece of string between the two.
Hang your beautiful bathroom sign!
How to Make Cricut Signs using HTV on Canvas
1. Set up your design in Design Space. I recommend adding a rectangle the size of your canvas and changing the line type to “guide” to get a good gauge of how the design will look on your finished canvas. Send it to cut, mirror it. Load your Smart Iron-on shiny-side-down and cut!
2. When your design comes off the mat, weed it. I love how easy Smart Iron-on is to weed beautifully (this is the front view, through the plastic carrier sheet.)
3. Make sure to use a ruler to center your design. For this sign, I used the spots with embellishments as my framework. I made sure the embellishments around please, and, and thank you were centered. Tape at the top and bottom using heat resistant tape to keep your placement.
4. Fold a towel so that it fits in the back of your canvas frame to give support all the way through. Cover with butcher paper (optional, but I like to do this just in case.) Press according to instructions on Cricut’s Heat Guide. I used the temperature for cotton canvas.
5. You know it’s pressed well when you can see the canvas’s texture through the iron-on material. When it’s cool to the touch, peel off the carrier sheet. If the iron-on lifts in some places as you remove the sheet, simply put it back on, press for another 15 or so seconds focusing on that area, and try again when it’s cool again.
I had to do one additional press in two spots. Because my EasyPress wasn’t big enough AND the towel inside isn’t a perfectly even solution, it’s prone to missed or under-pressed areas but it’s a very easy fix if you peel carefully.
Your bathroom sign is complete!
I hope you enjoyed learning all about different methods for making signs with Cricut! Which is your favorite method to use on stretched canvas? Infusible Ink or HTV?
How to Make Canvas Signs with your Cricut
Materials
Materials for Infusible Ink on Canvas
- Infusible Ink transfer sheet
- Canvas (mine is 8x10 inches)
- Craft Knife (I used Cricut's Truecontrol in Lilac)
- Staple gun
- Hanging nails
- Hammer
- String - I used simple white cotton twine
- Scissors
- Lint roller
Materials for HTV on Canvas
Tools
Cricut Equipment and Tools
Instructions
Making Signs with Cricut using Infusible Ink on Canvas
1. For this one, I made a reverse canvas. To prepare it, cut around the staples on the back using a knife to remove the canvas from the frame.
2. Trim the canvas portion to fit behind the frame, leaving enough to staple it back on but not too much that'll stick out around the frame.
3. Measure how big you want your design to be WITH the frame in place (don't reattach it).
4. Set up your design in Design Space and send the design to cut. Make sure to mirror your design. Adhere the material well to the mat, ink side up, using a brayer. Load and cut.
5. To remove from the mat without curling, place it upside down on your surface and peel the mat away from the material.
6. To help you weed your design, bend back the material in the spots you're cutting.
Don't worry if it cuts like this. Next time I'll need to use more pressure, however, as long as the inked portion is removed, the design in that spot won't transfer.
7. Use a lint roller to clean your canvas. Any surface debris will interrupt the print transfer.
8. Tape your design on well using heat resistant tape. This step is important, as any shift or movement of your transfer sheet will result in ghosting.
9. Place the canvas with the design attached on the mat and cover with butcher paper (this comes with your Infusible Ink transfer sheets). Find the instructions on Cricut's Heat Guide and set accordingly. I did mine at 385 for 40 seconds with light pressure.
10. Remove the design according to the instructions.
11. Staple the canvas onto the frame. Place the frame on the surface so that the ugly side with the staples and trim are face up. Place the canvas design-face-down on top. Staple at the corners, at the center of each side, and then add staples in between as needed.
12. Hammer in small picture hanging nails about 1-1.5 inches from each edge on the back of the top frame of the design. Make sure not to hammer it through to the front - it can stick out.
13. Knot a piece of string between the two.
Hang your beautiful bathroom sign!
How to Make Cricut Signs using HTV on Canvas
1. Set up your design in Design Space. I recommend adding a rectangle the size of your canvas and changing the line type to "guide" to get a good gauge of how the design will look on your finished canvas. Send it to cut, mirror it. Load your Smart Iron-on shiny-side-down and cut!
2. When your design comes off the mat, weed it. I love how easy Smart Iron-on is to weed beautifully (this is the front view, through the plastic carrier sheet.)
3. Make sure to use a ruler to center your design. For this sign, I used the spots with embellishments as my framework. I made sure the embellishments around please, and, and thank you were centered. Tape at the top and bottom using heat resistant tape to keep your placement.
4. Fold a towel so that it fits in the back of your canvas frame to give support all the way through. Cover with butcher paper (optional, but I like to do this just in case.) Press according to instructions on Cricut's Heat Guide. I used the temperature for cotton canvas.
5. You know it's pressed well when you can see the canvas's texture through the iron-on material. When it's cool to the touch, peel off the carrier sheet. If the iron-on lifts in some places as you remove the sheet, simply put it back on, press for another 15 or so seconds focusing on that area, and try again when it's cool again.
I had to do one additional press in two spots. Because my EasyPress wasn't big enough AND the towel inside isn't a perfectly even solution, it's prone to missed or under-pressed areas but it's a very easy fix if you peel carefully.
Your bathroom sign is complete!
