I made these when I first got my Clawlab tufting kit and discovered the hard way that you can’t really reuse all the extra primary cloth that sits around the main project. So when doing smaller project like the tufted initials I made in my Clawlab review, any extra fabric needs to be reused around the main fabric, befor removing it from the frame.

These DIY mini tufted hearts are perfect for using up that extra material. It can be fun to make, and even to finish off however well you want to do that.

I had these in mind at first as a party favor for my daughter’s birthday party. We did a sleepover themed party for her, and I thought the “rug” was kind of cool for that. But in the end I went with wooden heart keychains.

These are really fabulous for Valentine’s Day too as little Valentines to hand out, as filler sales items for craft fairs, and as small gifts.

Top Tips for making DIY Mini Tufted Hearts for Keychains

Here are some steps and strategies for making these keychains. Read through for successful crafting right off the bat.

Tips for making this using scraps around a project

Since this was born as a “primary cloth scraps” project, these tips focus on reusing those scraps.

• Don’t remove your primary cloth from your frame after you complete making your project. Leave it in place and work around the project.

• Leave a couple of inches of space around all the borders of your main project – and an extra inch around the hearts (each heart). I made mine too close on this one and learned that the hard way. You need some excess to cut it out and fold it over.
• Working on smaller pieces can actually be harder. Do this once you’ve practiced.

Of course, you don’t need to make this as scraps, but these rules generally apply even if you’re setting up a new project to make these mini tufted hearts.

Do you need a tufting gun to do this?

This tutorial DOES use a beginner-friendly and portable tufting gun setup. You can try similar methods using hook rug for a more hands-on and intricate craft.

Finishing the back

My Clawlab kit came with special rug backing fabric. I chose not to use this. I wanted mine to feel soft on the other side as well.

I finished mine off with soft felt. I definitely recommend using something like felt if you’re making keychains. For coasters, the backing fabric is perfect. I’ll share more variations below but definitely let me know in the comments if you have more ideas for finishing off mini tufted hearts.

Tips for success

I’ve shared some tips specific to using the border, but general tufting skills will help you go a long way here.

• Tension is everything. After you’ve worked a whole project on your cloth, you may want to re-adjust the tension before you start using your scraps.
• Work on a slow speed. Keep in mind that the smaller your design is, the more curves, and the harder it’ll be. While I always work slow for outlining, I often speed it up for filling. For these mini tufted hearts, I did not do that – I kept things relatively slow.
• Keep your tufting gun straight – don’t tilt it up or down.
• Since these are looked at right up close, you definitely want to keep your stitches tight. If you look closely at my images, you’ll find that a lot of them (especially the earlier ones that I made) have white gaps where the primary fabric shows through. To avoid this, make your lines of stitches tight.

Variations on these mini tufted hearts

There are so many different way to craft these. Here are just a snippet of the ideas I have. Definitely drop a comment if you have any others you’d like to share with the crafting community!

Not just keychains

I made these as keychains with little kids in mind. Here are a few more ideas:

• Glue magnets (keep these FAR away from children) to the back and then cover with felt for super cool “invisible” locker magnets.
• Make them in a 4 inch size and shave them flat to use them as coasters. Use carpet backing to make them non-slip.
• Make two identical / mirrored ones ones (you an cut a template from cardboard to trace – and mirror it). Glue them back to back or stuff them to make a cute little plushie.

Adding a little detail

I trimmed some in pink and filled them with purple since I ran out of pink yarn. They look so cute but they weren’t filled in enough close to the border. Adding a border trim is a cute idea if you do it right.

You can also add cute little features like button eyes, googly eyes, stitched or tufted mouths, patterns/stripes, and more!

I trimmed mine using a pair of fabric and detail scissors. If you have a carpet trimmer, go ahead and use that. On such a small project, the easiest way to really get that detail in and carve it is with scissors – by hand! Sit, relax, turn on music or a podcast and take your time with it.

How to make DIY mini tufted hearts

What you’ll need

• A tufting gun and frame
• Primary cloth
• A permanent marker
• 8 ply tufting yarn
• Latex carpet adhesive
• A spreader tool for applying your adhesive (I used a scrap of cardboard which worked for a small craft like this one)
• Good fabric and detail scissors
• Hot glue gun – read my recommendations for the best glue guns for crafts here.
• Felt
• Keychain – split ring, plus screw eye, and pliers to connect it.

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Directions

1. Start by outlining your hearts. Make sure to leave generous space both for finishing your hearts and your main project.

2. Carefully tuft the outline of your hearts.

3. And fill them in! Work slowly and make your stitches tight to avoid gaps.

Some of these are too close together – leave space on your hearts.

4. Pull out any long hanging starting/finishing strings. Carefully remove the tufting cloth and trim it. Apply generous glue to the back of your hearts.

Apply your glue in a thick, even layer.

5. Allow your glue to dry according to package directions. It should be dry but tacky. Separate your hearts leaving 1/2 inch to an inch border.

6. Cut notches around the excess fabric. Cut a notch at the bottom peak and the top dip of the heart. Cut small notches around the curves.

7. Work very carefully with your hot glue gun here – you may want to put on heat resistant gloves. Carefully fold over and glue down the border fabric.

8. It’s time to clean up your mini tufted hearts! I started by defining the outline shapes, and trimming any unevenness from the front.

9. Then, for those with a border, I pushed back the border color and trimmed around the inside color to define it.

10. When you’re happy with it, apply some glue to the part where you want the keychain, and glue a screw eye so that the eye sticks up and the screw is on the heart. The screw part provides resistance vs. using a regular eye pin.

11. Then, hot glue your heart to a felt backing. Put your glue right on the border of the tufting fabric so you completely cover it.

12. Fold back the felt and trim around the heart.

13. Attach the keychain hardware to the screw eye. Your DIY mini tufted hearts are complete!

What will you be making with your DIY mini tufted hearts? Comment below!

The post DIY Mini Tufted Hearts appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I’ve been wanting to try crafts that turn plastic lids into sort of buttons, and I figured that winter is the perfect time to give this a try with a plastic lid snowman craft!

This is such a fun and forgiving craft. It’s open-ended, leaving room for creativity. It’s really easy – no special skills required. It doesn’t require you to be precise or get it perfectly right. There are no measurements, there is no template because there is no need for one!

Tips for crafting a plastic lid snowman

Since this is so open-ended, I figured I’d share some general tips for crafting plastic lid snowmen, and some fun ideas I had in mind for them.

Dressing it up

One of the most creative parts of this is dressing up your plastic lid snowmen. This makes it actually a really fun workshop activity, since you can teach the basic process of creating the plastic lid snowmen, and then offer various odds n ends to decorate it.

I created two of these to show you two different ways you can finish them off.

On one, I added earmuffs using faux fur scraps. I used felt to connect the two muffs, but you can also use a chenille stem. That might look cooler as you can allow it to stand up a bit.

For the nose, I used a flat bit of felt but you can also see how I did the nose on my snowman peg dolls for another way to craft a carrot nose from felt.

On the other one, I decided to make a beanie using a scrap of wintry fabric. I cut it into shape and rolled up the bottom, gluing it in place for the turned up rim. Pom poms make this project shine. The carrot nose is a “front view” – I used a tiny orang pom pom for that.

I definitely recommend getting creative with these and dressing them up as you see fit. You can also use a swatch of fabric for the scarf and beads or buttons fly for the buttons. I didn’t add a face (I wanted to keep it simple) but you can make that by gluing on small beads or drawing it on with a fabric marker. You may want to test the marker for bleed first.

Finishing it off

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen – and these are just a few.

Turn it into an ornament – glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.

Use it as a plush figure – I honestly had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini “pet snowman”.

Add it to a keychain – While it’s pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. I’d probably add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.

Put it in a winter sensory bin – I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

What you need to craft a plastic lid snowman

• Two sizes of plastic lids – I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonyfield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it – assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

How to make a plastic lid snowman

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you’d like (do this if it’ll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

I hope you enjoyed making a bottle cap snowman! What’ll you be using yours for? Comment below!

How to Make a Bottle Cap Snowman

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Beginner

Estimated Cost: $1

This adorable little bottle cap snowman is such a fun recycled craft to make for winter! Turn these into ornaments or little dolls for pretend play. They're easier than they look.

Print

Materials

• Two sizes of plastic lids - I used one from a liter bottle of seltzer, and one from a Stonefield yogurt smoothie.
• White cotton fabric
• White Polyfil fiber
• Fabric scissors
• Washable fabric marker
• White thread and needle
• To decorate it - assorted fabric and felt scraps, buttons, pom poms, etc.
• Ribbon - 1/4 inch grossgrain ribbon is perfect - or get bundled scraps for projects like these, like I do!
• Hot glue gun (check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here)

Instructions

1. Place your plastic lid on white fabric and make a circle around it. Be generous. You want it to be larger than the cap all around by roughly the height of the cap.

2. Cut out your circles.

3. Create a running stitch all around the perimeter of your circle using a needle and thread.

4. Pull it slightly so that the circle cups.

5. Stuff some Polyfil into your bottle cap.

6. Place the cap open-side-down on the circle. Try to shove all that Polyfil under.

7. Gently pull your thread to fully cinch the edge of the circle around the cap.

8. Stitch in and out of the cinched threads a few times to secure the two sides together, knot and trim.

9. Repeat with the second bottle cap.

10. Glue the two bottle caps together, one on top of the other.

11. Tie a ribbon scarf around the neck. Glue to secure if you'd like (do this if it'll be getting any real active use).

12. Dress your bottle cap snowman up! I cut a triangle of felt for a carrot nose, bits of faux fur and felt for earmuffs, and beads for buttons.

On the other, I made a beanie using corduroy scraps (roll up and glue on the bottom) and a pom pom, added a tiny pom pom nose, and buttons for buttons.

Notes

There are so many different ways you can use plastic lid snowmen - and these are just a few.

• Turn it into an ornament - glue on a folded over ribbon to the top back to turn it into an ornament.
• Use it as a plush figure - I had it in mind originally just as a little toy that kids can play with, kind of like a mini "pet snowman".
• Add it to a keychain - While it's pretty large in size, I think it would make a fun addition to a backpack for the season. Add a keychain by gluing on a small loop made from felt to the top back and using that to connect to keychain hardware.
• Put it in a winter sensory bin - I ended up using this as part of a sensory bin featuring 2-ingredient fake snow.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Plastic Lid Snowman – Ornaments or Little Dolls! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This buffalo plaid bracelet pattern is not your childhood friendship bracelet! It’s sophisticated, modern, and oh, so cool – the perfect fall or winter jewelry accessory!

The idea popped into my head the other day: I MUST figure out how to make a buffalo plaid friendship bracelet! And so started a month long process.

First, despite my huge stash of strings, I simply did not have the correct colors.

Then, the original process didn’t quite cut it. And then finally, I LOST one of the bracelets I had worked on for a long time!!

I’m really excited to finally sharing with you this buffalo plaid friendship bracelet pattern.

This bracelet uses an alpha pattern with a running string that is used in every single knot and runs from left to right and then to left again.

It’s not an easy bracelet really, since you’re working with long strings and constantly switching off, however the concept is very simple with a basic set of rules that’s easy to remember.

One of my favorite features of this buffalo plaid bracelet is that it looks fabulous on both sides!! The back takes on a basket-weave look and is quite beautiful as well.

The textile look of this bracelet is so much more sophisticated than your typical friendship bracelet and makes it a fabulous fall or winter accessory.

I tried making it in three color schemes that are relatively neutral: tans, muted reds, and olive greens. You can also make it in very seasonal colors: bright red or green, pink, blue.

As long as you choose the correct color combo, it’ll look fab – and I offer tips on that below, so you’ll get it right!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

While I do outline step by step instructions below, I want to summarize the process for those of you who might be more skilled. I also share some of the crafting tips and decision making process that makes a big difference to the final bracelet here, so definitely skim it, even if you’re not a pro!

Choosing your colors

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

Just like when I created a 3d zig zag friendship bracelet and a 3D diamond friendship bracelet pattern, the color creates the effect. This might not be 3D but choosing the right colors is what makes it look like a Buffalo plaid bracelet.

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

If you look at classic Buffalo plaid, it often has a very bright “light”. That’s okay, as long as you can get a good medium for it. I purchased my strings individually in-store (at Michaels) from open-stock embroidery floss for this bracelet. This way, I could lay it out and choose.

DMC Colors I used (dark to light):

• Green bracelet: 500, 501, 504
• Red bracelet: 3371, 3830, 3779
• Brown bracelet: 3021, 3790, 3033

The Basic Rules to Making a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

To make a buffalo plaid bracelet, you do NOT need to sit with an actual pattern in front of you. Remember to follow these basic rules:

• You’re creating 4×4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot – either it’s being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium – it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you’re up to – a light row or a dark row.

And that pretty much sums up the rules of making a buffalo plaid bracelet! See? No pattern needed! But I’ll give you one anyway.

Buffalo Plaid Bracelet Pattern Summary (for pros)

This is for those of you who just want the process in brief, without step-by-step photos. There is a printable version at the end of this post.

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Starting and finishing your bracelet

When it comes to classier friendship bracelets like this one, I like to give it that kind of respect. Therefore, I used the ribbon crimp method to finish this off.

This not only gives it a polished “real jewelry” touch, but it also allows it to be taken on and off more easily. It also makes it fabulous to stack with real jewelry. Simply make sure to get the correct size crimp. This will depend in part on the size of your string and the tension of your knots. I purchased this package which has a few sizes that are close enough that you have what to choose from.

There are more traditional ways to finish this off – you can read how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

Step by Step Tutorial for a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Supplies needed

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Thread snips
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Clasp and jump rings

Starting your bracelet

1. Cut your string as follows: Light: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Dark: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Medium: 13 feet. It can be hard to work with a very long string, so you may want to wrap it around a scrap of cardboard with wider ends, to make a mini skein.

2. Arrange your strings as follows: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Tape them down with a bit of tape. I found it best to start this bracelet flat and NOT with a knot. It’s just clearer. To do this, I started it taped in order (closer than pictured) to a surface. after one round, I was able to remove it from the surface. You can also simply lay it on a flat piece of tape in order, and place another piece of tape on top, if you prefer not to work attached to a surface.

Knotting your bracelet

To make this, you NEED to know how to make forward and backward knots. It’s not really a total beginner bracelet (although it’s not very complex.) If you don’t yet, first learn how to make a friendship bracelet and then come back to this tutorial.

Rule: you’re always moving your ONE medium colored string along to the next knot.

Row 1:

Work this row from left to right, moving your medium string along to the next position with each knot.

1. Start with your left (medium) string. Forward knot it around the string to its right (light) and pull tight.

2. Forward knot the same (medium) string around the next light to the right.

3. Backwards knot the next string to the right of your medium (dark) around the medium. The next string to the right will again be a dark. Backward knot it around your medium.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the next four strings. Forward knot your medium around the light to its right. You’ll have another light to its right so forward knot medium around it. The next string is a dark so backward knot the dark around the medium and repeat with the next dark.

Row 2:

Row two needs to look exactly like row one, only you’re working from right to left since your medium string is at the right.

5. Forward knot the dark to the left of your medium around your medium. This IS the string you just worked with.

6. Forward knot the next dark around medium.

7. Backward knot medium around the right to the left of it. Repeat with the next light that’s now to the left of it.

8. Repeat: Forward knot dark around medium, forward knot dark around medium, backward knot medium around dark, and backward knot medium around dark until you’re back at your starting point and your original string order.

Rows 3 & 4:

Row 3 works left to right, moving the medium along as you did before and row 4 mimics row 3, working from right to left.

9. Backward knot light around medium. Repeat with the next light to the right: backward knot around medium.

10. Forward knot medium around dark. Forward knot medium again around the next dark.

11. Repeat: Backward knot light around medium, and the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then around the next dark.

12. Repeat row 3 working from right to left. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium.

Repeat this process until your bracelet is almost long enough to wear! Leave an inch for the clasp and crimps.

Finishing it off

13. Carefully remove the starting tape and hold your strings so that they form a row no wider than the width of your bracelet. Place a thin line of hot glue where the strings end. Repeat on the finishing point of your bracelet. When the hot glue is totally dry, flip it over and repeat on the back .

14. When your hot glue is dry on both sides, attach a ribbon crimp to each end. Attach a clasp and connector to your ribbon crimp – or read this tutorial for how to add a clasp to a friendship bracelet. Your buffalo plaid bracelet is complete!

I hope you love your gorgeous buffalo plaid friendship bracelet and wear it all year long! Which color combination will YOU try? Comment below!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to make a gorgeous, sophisticated buffalo plaid firnedship bracelet - or micro macrame! This stunning winter accessory is simple to DIY and fun for teens through adults.

Print

Materials

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Clasp and connector - I used jump rings

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Thread snips

Instructions

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Notes

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

This bracelet follows basic rules:

• You're creating 4x4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot - either it's being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium - it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you're up to - a light row or a dark row.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet Pattern appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking for pretty and simple printable leaf coloring pages, this set includes maple, oak, palm, aspen – and 8 more leaves! When you’re done, check out these mushroom coloring pages, too. This post contains affiliate links.

If you’re a fan of coloring of any age, leaf coloring pages are a must-try. Leaves are one of those wonders of nature: they are so similar in basic structure, yet so different! Virtually any plant can be identified by simply snapping a photo of its leaves.

That’s why these leaf coloring pages were kept simple: focus on the simplified shape of each leaf and have fun coloring!

And yes, grown-ups and kids can both have fun learning about leaf shapes and coloring in leaves with these. Kids can color them in more simply or get creative, and adults can practice shading and highlighting, and blending various art supplies on these.

Learn more about the Leaf Coloring Pages

A peek at the whole bundle

These coloring pages are sold as a bundle, ready for you to download and explore. They include the following leaves.

You have a magnolia, maple, ash, and palm. These are obviously not proportionate to each other and are designed to fill the page as much as possible.

There’s Linden, chestnut (note: the spelling has been fixed on your copy).

Finally, you get Lilac (did you know that’s a tree?) Birch, Poplar, and Holly.

While these are great for any time, they are fabulous for coloring and using in fall crafts – or even Christmas! Do them all at once or break them out for certain occasions.

Download the leaf coloring pages

This is a premium download, available in my shop, on Etsy, and on TpT. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Tips for coloring leaf coloring pages

What I used

I always like to share my best tips for coloring these when I can.

For these, I pulled out my Ohuhu alcohol markers. I pulled out sets of similar colors – and stepped a bit outside the expected bounds, going deeper, darker, yellower, and browner than the obvious.

I protected my surface using a sheet of plastic for backing. The markers I used were fine tip on one side and chisel on the other. I do find brush-tip alcohol markers easier to blend since they fade more naturally.

Alcohol markers are fabulous for layering and blending on projects like this one because they won’t soak the page and shrivel it – they just absorb right in.

Color theory in leaf coloring pages

When choosing your colors, don’t just stick with the obvious. Think of the variation in color in what you see, and step outside the box. On the red maple leaf, I added a splash of yellow that really made it pop more than the others.

The aspen would never be a flat yellow. It always has a brown tone to it.

Studying photos of leaves as you color your leaf coloring pages is a really helpful way to get a convincing effect.

More cool supplies for coloring leaf coloring pages

If you’re not up for using alcohol markers, or just aren’t in the mood for them, try this (and yes, you can follow the steps below roughly using these media too):

• Try this with chalk pastels instead
• Soft core colored pencils are a favorite! A good mid-range brand is Prismacolor Premiere.
• Trace the design onto a watercolor board using carbon paper and color it with watercolors.

You can also add highlights using a white gel pen, sparkle using a gold paint marker, or use your imagination to overlay it with doodles and mandalas!

How to color leaf coloring pages – step by step tutorial

I usually stick to basic tips and not an exact process for coloring pages, because you need to be the artist.

However, since this is a more nature-sourced and specific – “technical” – coloring page, I’ll follow a process – but do whatever YOU’D like!

1. Swatch each color you plan to use before you start, testing how they blend. For the maple leaf, start with a darker red. Fill in around the border, adding thicker blocks of color in some spaces.

Avoid making things too homogeneous.

2. Take a lighter and brighter shade of red and color over it, blending the colors together. I recommend coloring over your darker color, too, to get a better blend. Use light blending strokes as needed.

3. Keep going lighter and brighter. Don’t be afraid to go more orange and yellow. If you go too bright too fast, choose an in-between color to blend things better.

And remember, nature doesn’t have perfect blends either!

4. Keep going, overlapping and blending.

I often like to find a very light shade that I can use to go over the whole thing and set a specific “tone”.

5. For the aspen leaf, which I colored “yellow”, I started out with tans as my deeper color, working my way into golden tones and yellow. This one I left flat and less dynamic.

6. On the oak, which I colored green, I started out with deeper colors on the inside, working my way lighter. I did jump ahead a bit on this one, coloring the outline in the light shade first just because I wanted to block that in with neat strokes to allow me to then do more fast strokes on the inside.

I did then go over the whole leaf with the same process.

Have fun coloring your leaf coloring pages! And no, you don’t need to keep them realistic! You can color them in a rainbow spectrum, see how many shades of green you can discover, or just work with any fantastical color scheme!

And yes, this would make a FABULOUS classroom project – whether it’s a bulletin board or garland. Give everyone a leaf to color and see what they come up with!

In case you missed it, download your leaf coloring pages in my shop, on Etsy, and on TpT!

If you enjoyed this, you’ll definitely want to check out my tutorial on how to draw a maple leaf!

The post 12 Printable Leaf Coloring Pages – Maple, Oak, Palm, and more! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Felt baskets are just so sweet and there are probably a zillion ways to make it. Personally, I have at least four styles of (purchased) felt baskets throughout my house, which just shows you how many ways they can be made.

In this post, I’m teaching you how to make easy DIY felt baskets two ways:

• Sewing a square basket (you can also hot glue this style)
• A no-sew version that is designed to be no-sew, not just a hot-glued version of the sewed one. It supports itself without any sewing or gluing and can be folded flat when not in use.

These are two totally unique templates that I offer for free at the end of this post.

The size of this one is a few inches in each direction. It’s perfect for fitting a few treats, or for mini storage. For example, I store my sewing clips in one of them.

Tips for crafting a DIY felt basket

Making felt baskets in big

These baskets are very small, because I wanted to fit them onto a single page – and sheet of felt. If you want to make them larger, you can absolutely scale them up. The formula should work in any size.

To do this, simply print it at scale (200%, 500% etc) and assemble the combined template using mine as a guide.

You can also simply use my template as a visual guide – especially the sewn one. Just look at how I constructed mine and construct your own from scratch.

It’s made of five equal sides: the base, and four walls. They are arranged as a “plus”. Make your own larger template from poster board. You can then reuse it to trace multiple baskets. Make sure to purchase good quality thick felt yardage if you’re making these DIY felt baskets in big.

Your Handle Choices for crafting a DIY felt basket

On the sewn basket, I created a handle template that you can cut from felt. If you’re making this in larger, you can sew it on. If you want to sew it on the mini basket, do this before you craft the rest or it’ll be too hard to get in there with the sewing machine. I just glued mine on cuz why not.

You can really use these handles for both baskets, but on the no sew version I added a handle from ribbon. I cut it a bit too short for it to show up nicely in the photos but the idea is there.

You can really mix and match, use ribbon or rope as handles for any basket. You can do the handles how I did – as hand ones that fold over on one side, or as arm handles that go from one side of the basket to the other.

Two templates and ways to craft a DIY felt basket

The two baskets have two totally unique templates and processes but I decided to combine them into this one post so that you can easily see them side by side and choose which to craft.

The sewn version (can be glued too)

There are a few ways you can assemble this template – and no, it doesn’t have to be machine sewed!

You can:

• Machine sew it like I did. I used a cheap basic sewing machine for this – nothing fancy is needed for sewing felt.
• Hand sew it in pretty blanket edged stitch, using coordinating embroidery floss
• Hot glue it as if you’re sewing it along the seam lines. I find that this has its own advantage: the hot glue provides some structure.

I machine sewed my basket to be a perfectly solid structured basket, that totally holds its own shape. To do that, I also sewed along the bottom seams. You don’t have to do that. You can exclusively sew the four corners if you prefer, just watch the bottom corners to make sure you close them off.

No Sew No Glue Stashable DIY Felt Basket

The second one takes really seconds to assemble and can be easily dismantled for storage when not in use. (Please tell me I’m not the only person who needs storage solutions for my storage solutions!)

It is assembled with a simple knotted bit of leather or faux leather cording.

You can also glue it in place or stitch it down with a few simple stitches of embroidery floss.

I did not include holes on the template – personally I usually punch those holes so I didn’t think to do it.

You can mark these yourself on your template if you’d like.

How to Make a DIY Felt Basket

You’ll Need

Basic Supplies

• Felt – it should be thick and stiff enough to hold its shape
• The template downloaded at the end of this post and printed on paper or cardstock, cut out
• Straight pins OR a washable fabric marker
• Scissors (I recommend fabric and detail scissors – I have Singer’s)
• Hot glue gun – I used Surebonder’s Hot Glue Pen with Detail Tip (gifted)

To Sew it

• A sewing machine and coordinating thread

No sew version

• Flat leather or faux leather lacing
• A hole punch that’ll work through felt (recommended)
• Ribbons or rope for handles

Assembly Instructions

Watch the video, or scroll down for written instructions:

Sewn

1. Pin your template to the sheet of felt and cut it out. (Or trace your template using washable fabric marker and cut it out)

2. Remove the template.

3. Fold up your side towards the center (make no note of the fact that in the photo mine isn’t straight – just make yours straight. It’s pretty forgiving, though).

4. Sew along that fold – I left about 1/8 of an inch seam.

5. Do this for all four sides.

6. Now sew your four corners. Start by pinching together two sides.

7. And then sew along the side where they join to create an external seam. Keep your seam size consistent with the bottom.

8. Do this for all four corners.

9. Cut two handles from coordinating or contrasting felt.

10. Glue them down on one end on opposite sides so that they are directly across from each other – about 1/3 of the way from the edge.

11. Glue down the other end so that you’re gluing the same back side of the felt down, forming a flat surface on the top of the handle.

Note: you can sew this down too but if making a very mini basket, it can be hard to sew down now. You can do it on the flat template, but you may find the handles make the sewing harder. I found this to be the easiest way to add the handles.

No sew

1. Pin your template to the sheet of felt and cut it out. (Or trace your template using washable fabric marker and cut it out). Make sure not to miss those four slits.

2. Remove your template.

3. Prefold your basket.

4. Make two holes each on the four rounded ends. To do this, fold up the flat sides, and then the rounded sides. Bring the rounded sides around the flat to meet each other and mark where you want the holes. The rounded sides overlap – make sure that the holes you make on them match up.

5. Match those sides back up and thread a piece of leather lacing a few inches long through them, from the inside to the outside.

6. Tie an overhand knot on the lacing.

7. Add a handle if you’d like! Mine is made from ribbon.

Download your DIY felt basket templates

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

Your DIY felt baskets are complete. How will you be making yours and what will you be using it for? Comment below and then check out this fun DIY cardboard box storage bin.

The post DIY Felt Basket 2 Ways: Sewing and No Sew appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

New Year’s is such an exciting time! I love looking at the blank new calendar waiting to be filled with special occasions. This year’s calendar will be extra fun to look at because we’re decorating it with fuse beads!

Note: the images show 2024, but the download has been updated for 2025!

I have a confession to make about that.

I love fuse beads (also known as Perler or Hama beads). I love when my kids do fuse beads. It’s excellent for their fine motor skills, visual coordination, and focusing ability. I love making magnets, key chains, accessories, and toys out of fuse beads.

Here’s a totally fresh craft you can use your fuse beads for (assuming you already got some good use out of our last fuse bead tutorial – Fall/Thanksgiving napkin rings). We’re going to use fuse beads to give our new year calendars a major upgrade!

Each month will really pop with a cute, colorful, seasonal fuse bead symbol. Just follow the provided patterns to create the pictures, then glue them onto the calendar template. If some of the pictures aren’t relevant to your personal or family culture, feel free to swap them out for another design – you can create your own or find one online.

If you’re fuse bead fans, you might want to even give the Smart Pixelator a go – it converts any image into a fuse bead design (you can also use their images). Their beads are a bit smaller (it allows you to get more detail) so it’s not compatible with regular beads, but it’s totally cool if you want to make things like this without needing my templates!

We’re providing you with a free mini calendar of the whole year to go with the mini fuse bead icons. But you can also find a larger, monthly calendar to stick each picture to, if you find that type of calendar more useful. You can even do both! The calendar provided is for 2024, but you can reuse or re-do this project for any year by finding and printing a calendar with the correct dates and simply attaching your fuse bead projects to that.

You can do this project all at once, or you can print the calendar and then add the new picture each month. Or you can do the opposite – take one down each month, as a new “prize” to use each month for a magnet, keychain, bookmark topper, or what-have-you.

You’ll want to print the calendar on something firm like cardstock and/or glue it to a cardboard backing to make it strong enough to hold up the fuse bead icons. You could also consider laminating it for extra strength.

Because the individual pieces are small, they won’t take up a whole pegboard. That’s totally fine, just leave the extra pegs empty. If you’re using a large pegboard, you can even do a few shapes on the same board – but you’ll need to be more careful when ironing because it’s easy to knock over neighboring beads by mistake. It’s totally doable, though.

Let’s make it a great year!

What you need

• Fuse bead board, any size
• Fuse beads in assorted colors
• Parchment paper
• Clothes iron (or heat press)
• Glue or double-sided tape
• Templates (download and print at the end of this post)

Craft your fuse bead calendar

1. Print the template. If you’re planning to place your bead tray directly onto the pattern, make sure to print it at 100% scale and print a copy for each person doing the craft.

2. Using the dots on the template as a guide, copy the design by placing beads onto the little pegs. You can copy by matching the pattern, or you can lay your tray on top of the pattern sheet and place the beads directly on top of each colored dot as shown.

3. When all the beads are laid out, carefully cover them with a piece of fuse bead or parchment paper. It is helpful to cut the paper down to a size just a little larger than the peg board.

Preheat the iron to a medium setting, or the level indicated by the instructions on your bead package.

4. Place the iron carefully on top of the paper. Apply very gentle pressure while moving it in small circles to heat the entire project evenly. Do this for 30 seconds OR as indicated by the instructions on your bead package.

5. Gently lift a corner of the paper. Observe if the tops of the beads have become stuck together. If they seem loose, put down the paper and repeat the ironing for another 10 seconds, and check again.

When the tops of the beads seem to be stuck together, turn the project upside down and carefully lift off the peg board.

6. Cover the exposed side of the pattern with another sheet of the paper. Iron it the same way you did the first side. When done, the beads should be firmly fused together. Allow it to cool on a flat surface.

7. After completing all the patterns, glue or tape them to the calendar in the indicated spaces. Glue the calendar to a piece of firm cardboard for added strength.

Download the Fuse Bead Calendar Template

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

Who will you be making this calendar fuse bead template with? Will you be replacing any images? Comment below!

The post Calendar Fuse Bead Templates – 2025 Updated! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I’m always torn whether or not I should offer a free printable calendar each year. The problem is that for the work it takes, the life of the post is way too short!

However, I decided to do it this year anyway – with a bit of a creative twist!

The idea is that you can draw your own little image into each month! Do this all at once as a New Year’s Eve activity to help count down the hours. You can even draw a new image every hour starting at noon!

Or, celebrate each new month with a little sketch.

As an example, I illustrated January for you, with the classic snowman celebrating the snow image. The truth is, it is a small space to work with, but still a fun little sketch.

This 2023 Draw Your Own calendar *now updated with the 2025 calendar* is perfect for placing on a family bulletin board with important dates circled in red. It’s a fun thing for students to keep in the clear cover pockets – or inside/front – of a binder. You can even add it to your planner as an extra page for yearly reference if you’d like!

Download it in one – or all – of four colors, to suit your style. And when you’re done, just enjoy your small low-key pieces of artwork!

What should you draw for each month?

Here’s a quick list of ideas for adding to your calendar each month!

January – New Year’s – fireworks, fancy 2023 numbers, snowman, snowflakes

February – More snow! Hearts for Valentine’s, cupid…

March – Purim, Books for Read Across America Day, rainbows, St. Patrick’s,

April – Easter, Passover drawings. Rain/umbrella for April showers.

May – May Flowers, Lag Ba’omer drawings. Mother’s Day, anything outdoorsy, or springy like park benches, trees, etc. Print some step by step flower drawing tutorials.

June – bugs, bees, Shavuot drawings, Father’s Day, more flowers and outdoors! Learn how to draw insects.

July – Fireworks, flag, Uncle Sam for 4th of July. Summer things- bathing suit, beach, sunhat.

August – More summer things! Shining suns, sunglasses, picnics, vacation photos, camper.

September – Back to school images, Rosh Hashanah drawings, acorns, squirrels, beginnings of Fall – so leaves and pine cones. Learn how to draw an easy maple leaf.

October – Halloween or Sukkot, witches, fall leaves, bare trees, Jack O Lanterns, black cats

November – Turkey! Or anything Thanksgiving, more fall, harvest drawings such as corn, pumpkins, apples, etc.

December – Christmas or Hanukkah, a touch of winter too.

Download the free printable 2025 Draw Your Own Calendar

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

I hope you enjoy adding art to your Draw Your Own calendar! Got ideas for each month? Comment below!

The post Draw Your Own Calendar (Updated for 2025) – Free Printable appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Last year, while browsing the Dollar Tree, I bumped into the hula hoops which looked like they were large enough for… a one year old? But they were the perfect size for making a DIY hula hoop wreath!

It’s a large statement for a front door, but small enough to still fit on my oddly slim 1930’s single door too (they were built for horses and buggies it seems).

And it makes a gorgeous table centerpiece – just cluster some pillar candles in the center!

I made these as a fall wreath because I used fall flowers (yes, they were from the Dollar Tree too) but you can DEFINITELY make it for any season, of course.

Which flowers are best for a DIY hula hoop wreath

Something that’s important to know about faux flowers: it’s one of those “you get what you pay for” things. I got mine from the Dollar Tree because I was there (case in point: the hula hoop). Since you normally only see a wreath from afar it doesn’t really matter if your flowers look very fake.

But if you’re making these as a table centerpiece, you may want to opt for better flowers. I usually pick mine up from Michaels, and they often run sales. The quality of flower is definitely above and beyond – they look more real, are closer inspired to the real deal, have more color variation and shape variation like real flowers.

You’ll want a few bouquets in a cohesive color scheme. I went with burgundy, rust, and cream. You can get 5-10 varieties as long as you’re repeating the same 2-3 colors (and yes, you can vary the tone a bit).

Change up the scale a bit. Ideally, you have a few very large flowers, some medium sized ones, and loads of small ones to add dimension.

Look for flowers that can be pulled right off the stem and remain intact, and bonus points for those that’ll have usable leaves too (separate).

Using a hot glue skillet to make this (optional)

I crafted this DIY Hula Hoop Wreath using Surebonder’s hot glue skillet (they gifted it to me to share elsewhere) and I think it’s a great solution for this type of craft.

The skillet keeps the glue melted, and allows you to just dip your flowers and apply them to the wreath. You can get nonstick stirrers separately to help with application but you don’t need to.

It has variable heat settings and an on/off switch – just watch the edges – it’s hot.

I found that it helped me avoid the repetitive stress of the glue gun’s trigger with such a glue-intensive craft, and since the DIY hula hoop wreath doesn’t need precision in gluing, this really helped.

Otherwise, you can find my favorite hot glue guns for crafts here.

How to craft a DIY hula hoop wreath

The step by step process is written out with images/links here and repeated in a more printer-friendly “recipe card” at the end of this post.

Supplies

• Hula hoop – unless you have a huge place to hang it, aim for one on the smaller end. (Note: Dollar Tree has it seasonally)
• Faux flowers – I used about 12 small bouquets. Gauge this by having your hula hoop in-store, or you can do math!! based on the circumference of the hoop and the width of the flower heads (aim for 2-2.5 times to allow for some layering/overlapping)
• Glue gun – or hot glue skillet – see notes above
• Ribbon scrap for hanging (optional)

Process

1. Peel the outer decorative wrapping off the hula hoop if relevant, exposing the base hoop (this ensures that if any spaces show, it looks nice). If you can’t do this, you can spray paint your hoop instead.

Heat up your glue. Pull your first flower off the stem and dip the end in. I recommend holding the petals together to avoid them dipping in. If they dip a little, it’ll be fine – that part will likely stick to the hoop.

2. Place your flowers one at a time. Vary the scale. If you want a very balanced look, use a bouquet at a time starting with the largest, placing those at intervals, and create an imperfect pattern.

Keep placing flowers, ticking them between each other, overlapping them a bit, and making sure they look full until you’ve covered the front of your hula hoop.

3. Now pull off your leaves. Dip them and stick them on at intervals between flowers that can use a bit more green.

4. When you’re done, you may want to flip it over and see if there are any loose spots that need a bit more glue. Then, find a bare spot to loop a ribbon onto for hanging (skip this if using as a table centerpiece.)

You’ve successfully crafted a DIY hula hoop wreath!

How to Make a Wreath from a Hula Hoop

Print

Materials

• Hula hoop - unless you have a huge place to hang it, aim for one on the smaller end.
• Faux flowers - I used about 12 small bouquets. Gauge this by having your hula hoop in-store, or you can do math!! based on the circumference of the hoop and the width of the flower heads (aim for 2-2.5 times to allow for some layering/overlapping)
• Glue gun or hot glue skillet
• Ribbon scrap for hanging (optional)

Instructions

1. Peel the outer decorative wrapping off the hula hoop if relevant, exposing the base hoop (this ensures that if any spaces show, it looks nice). If you can't do this, you can spray paint your hoop instead.
Heat up your glue. Pull your first flower off the stem and dip the end in. I recommend holding the petals together to avoid them dipping in. If they dip a little, it'll be fine - that part will likely stick to the hoop.

2. Place your flowers one at a time. Vary the scale. If you want a very balanced look, use a bouquet at a time starting with the largest, placing those at intervals, and create an imperfect pattern.

Keep placing flowers, ticking them between each other, overlapping them a bit, and making sure they look full until you've covered the front of your hula hoop.

3. Now pull off your leaves. Dip them and stick them on at intervals between flowers that can use a bit more green.

4. When you're done, you may want to flip it over and see if there are any loose spots that need a bit more glue. Then, find a bare spot to loop a ribbon onto for hanging (skip this if using as a table centerpiece.)

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post DIY Hula Hoop Wreath appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A couple of years ago I shared a crochet sunflower pattern and knew I needed to revisit them once I saw how popular they were. So…

Check out these sweet crochet sunflower granny squares! They really showcase the beautiful colors and shapes of this popular flower. You can also change the colors to look like other flowers – or to use up leftovers from past projects. The classic crochet craft and soft yarn give this project a rustic feel that bridges both antique and contemporary styles.

Granny squares are a wonderful project for beginners to learn to crochet larger projects, or a relaxing activity for more experienced crocheters, because they are small and flat. You can feel the accomplishment of finishing a project quickly, even if your end goal is to produce more of them. Because they’re small, they’re a great way to use up smaller amounts of yarn if you don’t have enough for a bigger project.

They serve as the “building blocks” of larger project, and much like quilting squares, can be combined with different styles – such as this crochet flower granny square – to make something totally unique. 

Single squares can be used as coasters to protect a surface from a warm drink. Back it with cork to provide further protection from spills. A few squares stitched together can make a decorative wall hanging. And if you crochet enough squares, you can even connect them to make a whole blanket! Pretty much anything you can make out of fabric could also be made by combining crochet squares.

If your goal is to combine squares, you might choose to make them all the same for a uniform, repeating pattern, or you might want to make them in different colors for a whole different effect. 

You can alternate two or three colors in a pattern, or use a whole rainbow of colors randomly. You can keep the background color the same while making different colored flowers, or you can keep the flowers the same while changing the background – or change both if you really feel bold! 

You can even alternate squares of totally different designs, not only sunflowers, as long as they’re the same size. Add in some regular crochet granny squares too to balance things out. 

The possibilities are endless, but they all start the same way – grab some yarn in pretty colors, get a crochet hook, and let’s start crafting!

Sunflower Granny Square Crochet Pattern

Stitches Needed

SL- slip stitch

CH – chain stitch

DC – double crochet

TC – Treble/triple crochet

Materials

• Yarn – medium or medium-light
• Crochet hook – 3.5 mm
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle

How to crochet a sunflower granny square

1. Take the colored yarn you want for the center of the sunflower and tie a slipknot, without cutting it off of the skein. Make 6 chain stitches.

2. Work a slip stitch into the first chain stitch to form the chain into a ring.

3. Make one more chain stitch.

4. Start working double crochet through the base ring.

5. Work a total of 12 DC (double crochet) into the base ring. Work a slip stitch through the first top chain stitch to close the center part. Pull out the yarn by a few inches and cut it off.

6. Take another color of yarn for the sunflower petals. Make a slip knot with this new color.

7. Pull it through any of the stitches around the edge of the center.

8. Make 3 chain stitches.

9. Work a treble crochet through the same chain stitch but do not pull through the last 2 loops, keep them on the hook.

10. Work another TC and do not pull through the last loop. You should have a total of 3 loops on the hook.

11. Now, pull through all 3 loops at once.

12. Work 3 chain stitches.

13. Work 3 treble crochet through the next chain stitch, keep the last loops on hook like we did for the previous stitch. This time you should have 4 loops on the hook.

14. Pull through all 4 loops at once. 

15. Work 3 chain stitches again.

16. Repeat steps 9-15 until you’ve gone all the way around the center circle.

17. Work a slip stitch through the first top stitch and pull out a few inches of the yarn. Cut off extra yarn.

18. Select a color for the outside of the granny square. Start with a slip knot and join the slip knot with the sunflower part through a gap that was formed by the outer sets of 3 chain stitches (the gaps between the petals).

19. Chain 2 and work 2 DC through the same gap.

20. Work 3 TC through the next gap.

21. Work 2 chain stitches.

22. Work 3 TC through the same gap. This forms a corner of the granny square.

23. Work 3 DC through the next gap. Work another 3 DC through the next gap again. 

24. Then, work the corner stitch (3 TC, chain 3 and 3 TC).

25. Repeat this process until you’ve covered the flower through all 3-chain gaps.

26. Work a slip stitch through the first top chain stitch to close the granny square part.

27. Pull out a few inches of the yarn and cut it off from the skein. Use a tapestry needle to stitch the remaining end of the yarn over and under the back of the pattern. 

Your sunflower granny square is complete! What will you be making with yours? Comment below!

DIY Crochet Sunflower Granny Square

Print

Materials

• Yarn - medium or medium-light
• Crochet hook - 3.5 mm
• Scissors
• Tapestry needle

Instructions

1. Take the colored yarn you want for the center of the sunflower and tie a slipknot, without cutting it off of the skein. Make 6 chain stitches.
2. Work a slip stitch into the first chain stitch to form the chain into a ring.
3. Make one more chain stitch.
4. Start working double crochet through the base ring.
5. Work a total of 12 DC (double crochet) into the base ring. Work a slip stitch through the first top chain stitch to close the center part. Pull out the yarn by a few inches and cut it off.
6. Take another color of yarn for the sunflower petals. Make a slip knot with this new color.
7. Pull it through any of the stitches around the edge of the center.
8. Make 3 chain stitches.
9. Work a treble crochet through the same chain stitch but do not pull through the last 2 loops, keep them on the hook.
10. Work another TC and do not pull through the last loop. You should have a total of 3 loops on the hook.
11. Now, pull through all 3 loops at once.
12. Work 3 chain stitches.
13. Work 3 treble crochet through the next chain stitch, keep the last loops on hook like we did for the previous stitch. This time you should have 4 loops on the hook.
14. Pull through all 4 loops at once.
15. Work 3 chain stitches again.
16. Repeat steps 9-15 until you’ve gone all the way around the center circle.
17. Work a slip stitch through the first top stitch and pull out a few inches of the yarn. Cut off extra yarn.
18. Select a color for the outside of the granny square. Start with a slip knot and join the slip knot with the sunflower part through a gap that was formed by the outer sets of 3 chain stitches (the gaps between the petals).
19. Chain 2 and work 2 DC through the same gap.
20. Work 3 TC through the next gap.
21. Work 2 chain stitches.
22. Work 3 TC through the same gap. This forms a corner of the granny square.
23. Work 3 DC through the next gap. Work another 3 DC through the next gap again.
24. Then, work the corner stitch (3 TC, chain 3 and 3 TC).
25. Repeat this process until you’ve covered the flower through all 3-chain gaps.
26. Work a slip stitch through the first top chain stitch to close the granny square part.
27. Pull out a few inches of the yarn and cut it off from the skein. Use a tapestry needle to stitch the remaining end of the yarn over and under the back of the pattern.

Notes

Stitches Needed:
SL- slip stitch
CH - chain stitch
DC - double crochet
TC - Treble/triple crochet

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

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Prove me wrong: Craft sticks are literally the best. They’re cheap, easy to find, fun to work with, and the possibilities are endless. In this fun, quick craft, we’re going to dress up a few jumbo craft sticks with materials you can find at the dollar store (that is, if you don’t already have them at home!)

It’s so easy and cute that you might want to churn out a whole bunch – use them as decor, or glue notes on the back to give to special people in your life.

You can use these hearts to accent a tiered tray setup, a door or window hanging, a wall garland, or any shelf or surface. You can attach one to a gift, treat, or card to show some extra love.

This craft is fun and appropriate for any age. The youngest crafters might benefit from some small process adjustments – for you readers, I’ve instructed you to place the sticks at an angle, with sample pictures to guide you. For small children, you might want to provide a paper outline to guide the position of the sticks. 

Also, you’ll be using a cut-off piece of a craft stick to connect the other sticks together, but to avoid sharp edges for the youngest crafters, you might want to provide something else to serve as the connector, like mini craft sticks. And of course, I would recommend that the youngest crafters use liquid glue rather than a hot glue gun. Craft sticks are porous materials, so tacky glue, or even plain white glue can work.

I’ve suggested decorative elements that I was able to find at a local dollar store – in this case, it was sold as “table scatter” for party decor, which I repurposed as a craft embellishment. 

But as we all know, dollar store supplies vary – even the same store might not carry the same decorations from day to day. So shop around and use whatever you find; there’s sure to be something. If you specifically like the designs used here, you can try making your own by cutting out shapes from felt or craft paper. Otherwise, let your imagination go wild with buttons, stickers, pom poms, or any other embellishments you have.

What you need

• Jumbo craft sticks
• Felt heart and key table scatter (optional/varies)
• Iridescent glitter glue
• Baker’s twine
• Glue gun and glue sticks – low temp works best. Liquid glue is also OK.
• Acrylic craft paint (I used pink)
• Paintbrush
• Scissors

How to make a popsicle stick heart

1. To create the heart, line up four jumbo craft sticks at a slight angle on your work surface. Cut another craft stick to the width of the four lined up sticks, and glue it across the ends of the first four to hold them together. I recommend a low temp glue gun for this, but you can also use liquid glue if you have time to wait for it to dry.

Repeat this step for the second half of the heart, this time lining up the craft sticks at the opposite angle.

2. Lay one of the halves across the other, line up the bottom edges, and glue them together. Allow the project to dry.

3. Paint the front and sides of the heart with pink acrylic paint, or the color of your choice. Let it dry, and apply a second coat if desired.

4. When you are sure the paint is dry, squeeze out a small amount of glitter glue and spread it over the surface of the heart. The easiest way to do this is with your finger, but you can also use a plastic-bristled paintbrush or a spreading stick. Let it dry before continuing.

5. Select a heart and key shape from a variety pack of felt table scatter, or the embellishments of your choice. Attach them to the top center of the heart using the glue gun (or liquid glue). Tie baker’s twine (or the string of your choice) into a bow and glue it to the heart.

This is the end of my process for creating the heart craft as shown, but you can continue to decorate yours – maybe you’d like to use a permanent marker or paint marker to write the name of your loved one on the heart, or add your own name to show who it’s from.

Your popsicle stick heart is complete. What are you gonna make next? Comment below!

DIY Popsicle Stick Heart

Print

Materials

• Jumbo craft sticks
• Felt heart and key table scatter (optional/varies)
• Iridescent glitter glue
• Baker’s twine
• Glue gun and glue sticks – low temp works best. Liquid glue is also OK.
• Acrylic craft paint (I used pink)
• Paintbrush
• Scissors

Instructions

1. To create the heart, line up four jumbo craft sticks at a slight angle on your work surface. Cut another craft stick to the width of the four lined up sticks, and glue it across the ends of the first four to hold them together. I recommend a low temp glue gun for this, but you can also use liquid glue if you have time to wait for it to dry.
Repeat this step for the second half of the heart, this time lining up the craft sticks at the opposite angle.


2. Lay one of the halves across the other, line up the bottom edges, and glue them together. Allow the project to dry.


3. Paint the front and sides of the heart with pink acrylic paint, or the color of your choice. Let it dry, and apply a second coat if desired.


4. When you are sure the paint is dry, squeeze out a small amount of glitter glue and spread it over the surface of the heart. The easiest way to do this is with your finger, but you can also use a plastic-bristled paintbrush or a spreading stick. Let it dry before continuing.


5. Select a heart and key shape from a variety pack of felt table scatter, or the embellishments of your choice. Attach them to the top center of the heart using the glue gun (or liquid glue). Tie baker’s twine (or the string of your choice) into a bow and glue it to the heart.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

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