“Mommy, I really want a pickle necklace. A sour pickle necklace! Sour pickles are yummy. They’re not really sour. They’re yum.” is an unconventional request coming from a four-and-a-half year old, but…. challenge accepted!

My kids rarely ask me to make anything – besides for Cricut shirts, that they ask for all the time – and so if my child will present me with the ultimate challenge, how can I say no?

The cool thing about making a polymer clay pickle necklace is that it’s incredibly simple, and you don’t really need to have much experience working with clay to get it to look really good.

I did debate making this from air dry clay – but I wanted to have it done in one session (no drying time.) I will, though, share a basic air dry clay adaptation. If you’re more of an air dry clay person, check out my list of things to make with air drying clay.

One of the coolest things about this beginner polymer clay craft is that it really doesn’t require specialty equipment! It requires just polymer clay and basic hand tools for clay (which can really be improvised with things around the house of the correct shape.) Any clay tool that I recommend in the supplies list can be replaced if you really don’t want to invest in it.

Two ways to make a sour pickle necklace

My original idea was to make a cartoonish pickle necklace, with a “sour face”. And while it did come out quite cute, it’s not perfect (my technique isn’t 100% with working with tiny parts yet) and so I decided to try it again, but in simple. It also feels like not the thing I want my sweet little daughter to wear – and the simple pickle is just so much cuter.

I did include instructions for making both, though. You also have the choice of whether to add the “tail” or not. Again, I REALLY prefer the simple one.

It also lends itself to adding more realistic touches if you’d like, with finishes like chalk pastels. It can be mixed with classier jewelry for a quirky little touch without being overly tacky.

Tips for beginners making this pickle necklace

One of my things I always like to share before approaching a tutorial that I’m not an expert in is: I have a general expertise in crafting. I have done many different craft types in the past, and am at an intermediate level with most.

One of the advantages of teaching from this perspective is the ability to understand what the beginner needs to be taught, rather than what might be thought of as “understood” or a given with a teacher who’s deeper into the journey.

I do my best to do due diligence and not mis-teach anything. However, if you see a bigger expert than me teach something that contradicts my advice (especially since this is mostly about idea sharing, not technique sharing) definitely go with theirs – or at least try both!

However, as someone with a high level of experience in general crafting, there are some tips I can teach from experience here.

Mixing the right colors

I worked with a pack of clay that only had a bright green. While it might be tempting to pick up a pack of a zillion colors, you’re better off getting a high quality clay with fewer colors and mixing up your own. I used DAS Smart air dry clay, and wanted to get a much more muted clay.

This is where color theory comes into play. You can mix in black to get it darker, but it will give you a dull, muddy color. Instead, you mix in a complementary shade to majorly tone down your color. I mixed in too much red, so I pinched off a piece of that and mixed it with a fresh batch of green to get this pickle-perfect shade.

Connecting parts

One rookie mistake when crafting anything with clay is to assume that clay is adhesive and will stick to itself. In reality, you do need to use some sort of liquid clay to connect parts – and usually you’ll want to distress the connection points first. This can be challenging when working with very small pieces.

The basic pickle version of this necklace doesn’t require connecting parts, however the sour face pickle does.

The screw-eye that turns this pickle necklace into a pendant has something to hold it, but it can unscrew. I do recommend baking your clay with it inside, unscrewing it, and gluing it in place after.

Adapting this tutorial for air dry clay

If you want to stick to air dry clay for this, you definitely can! While you can definitely color your plain white air drying clay, you will get a more muted color that way. I recommend simply painting your finished project with craft acrylics!

You will definitely want to seal your project since acrylic paints can chip. You can use polymer clay sealers on air drying clay too.

You’ll also want to avoid very fine parts as air dry clay works better with thicker creations – so skip that tail!

How to make a (sour) pickle necklace

You’ll need

• Polymer clay – a deep green or green and red. I used this set from DAS
• Basic clay tools – I used this tool set from DAS
• An acrylic board
• If adding details, liquid clay
• Something to bake on (a clay-dedicated baking pan, for example)
• A screw eye
• A pendant bail
• Glue (such as Weldbond or E6000)

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Tutorial

1. If you don’t have the right color, mix it up. I added some red to bright green to get this pickle-y green.

As you mix it with your hands, you’re also conditioning it.

2. Take a small piece (about the size of a small olive). Place it on a smooth surface.

3. Use your acrylic board to roll it into a small cylinder. The benefit of using the board for this is that you avoid fingerprints. Avoiding using fingers to shape as much as possible helps to minimize prints.

4. Round off the ends (I did do this part with my hands.)

5. Use the acrylic board to roll very gently a little more on one end, tilting it slightly, to give you that slightly irregular shape.

6. Use your fingers to gently curve it and smooth any creases.

7. If you’d like to add a tail, form a little hole. Create a thin rope, dab a bit of glue into the hole, and insert the tail, using the pick tool to help you.

8. Use the ball tip tool to add texture.

9. If you’d like you can create a face. Make two tiny white balls (mine are too big!) Add them to the pickle using liquid glue. When you press it on, you’ll naturally form two tiny wells for the pupil.

10. Use the pick tool to fill those two tiny holes with two tiny black balls – of course, using liquid clay to connect it.

11. I did mess up a bit with the mouth (I should have taken it off and redone it) but it’s a rope, connected the same way. Use a smoother tool to connect that. The nose is a ball of the same color, formed as I connected it between the eyes. I pressed it in with the pick tool where the nostrils should be.

12. Screw in your eye hook. Bake according to package instructions, remove the eye hook, and glue back in.

Your polymer clay pickle necklace is complete! What will you make yours from? Comment below!

The post Sour Pickle Necklace from Polymer Clay appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I had a very good reason to make a fresh DIY Tiara Headband this summer. I went to Sweet Suite, a toy show for content creators and influencers, and this year was their Sweet 16. That felt like a perfect excuse to go all in on sparkle.

I decided to make a crystal beaded tiara headband for myself, which I can then pass on to my daughter A. She is a full-on diva and never turns down a chance to dress up, so she was all over this project the second she saw the crystals.

Where you’ll want to wear your DIY tiara headband

This tiara isn’t just for pretend! It’s gorgeous and can be worn at an actual Sweet Sixteen party. Use it as a princess accessory for a costume or as a “birthday crown”.

This is elegant enough to craft for a flower girl to wear at a wedding. And while I wouldn’t quite put it on a bride, you can definitely adapt my tutorial to create a more mature design than the simple crown shape to make it for a bride.

Tips for making a DIY tiara headband

Wire gauge – striking the right balance

This DIY tiara headband uses wire as its structure, and to form the base. Wire comes in different sizes called gauge – the higher the gauge the thicker the wire.

I used two sizes.

• 18 gauge wire – I used this for the structure of the DIY tiara headband. It has good solid structure while still being quite pliable for beginners. It also fits nicely in the beads. Go too big and it’ll actually break the beads and be too hard to work with.
• 20 gauge wire – this still has good structure, but is a bit more pliable. I used this to wrap and add structure and strength to my tiara.

Choosing your beads

You can absolutely make a DIY tiara headband with just about any beads. I chose crystals because of their sparkle factor – and yes, there’s just something so compelling to it.

While you don’t need to stick to crystals, keep in mind hole size when choosing. While this would look fabulous with pearls, natural pearls are usually drilled much smaller. You can get special large-hole pearls for this, or use glass pearls (again, check the hole size.)

Really, this can be made with any glass bead, however, keep in mind that the gorgeous cut of the Swarovski crystal is what makes it so sparkly. I even used their AB coated ones that have an extra iridescent finish for bonus sparkle. FYI they are no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, just pick up another brand crystal.

Getting the “magic” look

One cool trick I used here was to put it on a black headband. Since both A and I have very dark hair, this makes the headband disappear and it looks like the flat crown is perched right on our heads and magically staying in place!

The look is really easy to achieve on darker hair. For lighter hair tones, try for bronze or gold toned headbands – whatever blends best with the hair color.

How to make a DIY tiara headband – step by step process

What you’ll need

• 18 and 20 gauge copper wire
• Wire nippers
• Jewelry pliers – I used a mix of chain nose pliers and nylon jaw pliers
• A metal base headband close to the wearer’s hair color
• Crystal beads – I used a mix of 8mm and 6mm Swarovski crystal round beads. Note: Swarovski is no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, get good quality crystals.

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Tutorial

1. Choose the beads you plan to use. I stuck with soft beige, blush, and light blue (almost silvery) beads.

2. String them onto the 18 gauge wire as follows: 5 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 5 6-mm beads. Don’t cut the wire from the spool just yet.

3. Take the tip of the wire Wrap it around the headband a few times. It should be a few inches off center (you’ll be able to reposition it a bit).

4. Snip off any excess from the open end that you wrapped if needed.

5. We’re going to start shaping our crown! The first five 6-mm beads form the left side of the crown. Pull that down so that the bottom one sits against the headband, and the next form a line going up.

6. Bend your wire back a bit right above those beads.

7. Bring your 8 mm bead down. Curve the wire down around it.

8. You should now have your first point with a bead inside it. Squish it with pliers right under the 8mm bead if you need to refine the shape. Now bring three of your 6mm beads up to form a triangle.

9. Bend the wire up right below those three beads to form the valley between the spokes of the crown. The next three 6-mm beads will form the other half of that V.

10. Keep on going with the rest of the beads, allowing the 8mm beads to be the spokes of the crown, the second set of six split in half to form another V, and the last set of five forming the right side of the crown.

11. Trim your wire off the spool to a few inches from the end of the beads. Wind it around the headband a few times to secure it in place.

You now have a basic crown shape formed on your headband. You can tweak it a bit if you’d like at this point to refine it. We’re now going to stabilize the whole thing.

12. Take the 20 gauge wire and cut about a 6-inch segment. Center it on the wire below the larger spoke bead.

13. Wind it around a few times in that space below the bead (and over it a bit if you need to). Wind one side at a time. When you’re happy with it, trim it.

14. Do this for all three spokes. Position your crown where you like it on the headband and use your pliers to squash the wire wrap down in those spots to secure the crown.

15. We’re now going to form a base for our crown. String about 6 6-mm beads (depending on the final width of your crown – it should fill that space at the base.) I used 20 gauge wire here because it’s anyway sitting on the headband.

16. Hold that bit of wire up against the headband at the base of that crown. Wrap it a few times around the headband on each side, so that it sits flush on the headband. Repeat with the other side.

17. Take another piece of wire (20mm) and wrap it around the beads – between each bead – and around the headband at the ends.

18. Trim that wire. Your DIY tiara headband is complete and ready to wear!

Who will you be making this DIY tiara headband for? Comment below!

The post DIY Tiara Headband – Wire Wrapped Crystal Crown appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

The spiral friendship bracelet – often referred to as the “Chinese staircase” bracelet, is a foundational friendship bracelet that is one of the first tools to learning how to make a friendship bracelet that everyone should try!

It’s so easy and helps new crafters practice the very basic knots that will eventually be used to make insanely cool bracelets – including these name bracelets, diamond friendship bracelets, zig zag bracelets, and more!

And while all of the above are flat bracelets, this one is round. But unlike other round friendship bracelets (such as wrapped friendship bracelets and kumihimo bracelets), these spiral friendship bracelets actually use the same knots you’ll eventually be using to make elaborate flat bracelets.

Before we teach you how to craft your own, here are some tips for crafting success!

Tips for making spiral friendship bracelets

Practicing your knot

One of the cool things about making spiral friendship bracelets is that it’s a practice knot! It comes together quickly and so you don’t really need to practice making your knot in advance. If you don’t love the first bracelet, consider it a learning mistake and move onto the second.

The knot used here is a forward knot, that you simply repeat and repeat and repeat – and the spot where the string “moves down” to the next level is where your spiral is forming.

When you make a knot, tension matters. That is, how tight you pull it. Usually this can be influenced by things like mood, fatigue level, comfort or sitting position. For that reason, you’ll likely get the most naturally consistent results doing this in one sitting.

Again, it’s a quick bracelet, so you can. But you can also just keep your eyes open and make sure you’re pulling your string equally tight each time.

Choosing your colors

This bracelet, like many, is influenced heavily by which colors you choose. While for many bracelets I like to choose different shades of the same color, for spiral friendship bracelets, I typically like a little contrast.

Tip: choose your colors from a color wheel! Stick to a color scheme – such as analogous colors or complementary colors.

Another idea is just to spread out your strings and see what looks good, but focus on colors that have a similar tone. For example, all pastels, all muted colors, etc.

Crafting with it!!!

One of the coolest thing about spiral friendship bracelets is that once you master it, you don’t need to stick to bracelets! I mean, you can literally make knots around something. I’ve seen people do it around phone cords, and I have a tutorial for doing this around earring hoops in my book How to Make Jewelry Out of Anything.

You can try it around bangles, with thicker yarn around backpack handles, and even around a thin hairband!

How to make spiral friendship bracelets

You’ll need

• Embroidery floss – about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount – you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you’re adding) but don’t do less – it’ll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard – some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Knots used

The only knot you’re using here is a forward knot – that is where you knot a strand from left to right around the next one – or group of threads.

We’ll show you how to do it!

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by step instructions

1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you’re doubling colors)

2. If you’re doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

3. Choose which color you’re starting with and pull it to the left of your project.

4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left – over the top of your starting strand.

5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.

6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn’t be on top of each other. After a few knots, you’ll begin to see the spiral forming.

7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.

8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.

9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.

10. Repeat with your third color!

11. If you’re using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don’t run out.

12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!

13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.

14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.

15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.

16. Repeat on the other side and trim.

Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete!

You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands… You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make spiral friendship bracelets! Comment if you have any questions, or with which bracelet you want me to show you next.

How to Make a Chinese Staircase Friendship bracelet

This spiral friendship bracelet tutorial - otherwise known as the Chinese Staircase is the first bracelet I recommend that every new crafter make! It's easy, satisfying, and builds muscle memory for foundational knots

Print

Materials

• Embroidery floss - about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount - you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you're adding) but don't do less - it'll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard - some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Tools

Instructions

1. 1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you're doubling colors)
2. If you're doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.
3. Choose which color you're starting with and pull it to the left of your project.
4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left - over the top of your starting strand.
5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.
6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn't be on top of each other. After a few knots, you'll begin to see the spiral forming.
7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.
8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.
9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.
10. Repeat with your third color!
11. If you're using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don't run out.
12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!
13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.
14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.
15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.
16. Repeat on the other side and trim. Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete! You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands... You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Spiral Friendship Bracelets – the first bracelet you should make! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This buffalo plaid bracelet pattern is not your childhood friendship bracelet! It’s sophisticated, modern, and oh, so cool – the perfect fall or winter jewelry accessory!

The idea popped into my head the other day: I MUST figure out how to make a buffalo plaid friendship bracelet! And so started a month long process.

First, despite my huge stash of strings, I simply did not have the correct colors.

Then, the original process didn’t quite cut it. And then finally, I LOST one of the bracelets I had worked on for a long time!!

I’m really excited to finally sharing with you this buffalo plaid friendship bracelet pattern.

This bracelet uses an alpha pattern with a running string that is used in every single knot and runs from left to right and then to left again.

It’s not an easy bracelet really, since you’re working with long strings and constantly switching off, however the concept is very simple with a basic set of rules that’s easy to remember.

One of my favorite features of this buffalo plaid bracelet is that it looks fabulous on both sides!! The back takes on a basket-weave look and is quite beautiful as well.

The textile look of this bracelet is so much more sophisticated than your typical friendship bracelet and makes it a fabulous fall or winter accessory.

I tried making it in three color schemes that are relatively neutral: tans, muted reds, and olive greens. You can also make it in very seasonal colors: bright red or green, pink, blue.

As long as you choose the correct color combo, it’ll look fab – and I offer tips on that below, so you’ll get it right!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

While I do outline step by step instructions below, I want to summarize the process for those of you who might be more skilled. I also share some of the crafting tips and decision making process that makes a big difference to the final bracelet here, so definitely skim it, even if you’re not a pro!

Choosing your colors

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

Just like when I created a 3d zig zag friendship bracelet and a 3D diamond friendship bracelet pattern, the color creates the effect. This might not be 3D but choosing the right colors is what makes it look like a Buffalo plaid bracelet.

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

If you look at classic Buffalo plaid, it often has a very bright “light”. That’s okay, as long as you can get a good medium for it. I purchased my strings individually in-store (at Michaels) from open-stock embroidery floss for this bracelet. This way, I could lay it out and choose.

DMC Colors I used (dark to light):

• Green bracelet: 500, 501, 504
• Red bracelet: 3371, 3830, 3779
• Brown bracelet: 3021, 3790, 3033

The Basic Rules to Making a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

To make a buffalo plaid bracelet, you do NOT need to sit with an actual pattern in front of you. Remember to follow these basic rules:

• You’re creating 4×4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot – either it’s being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium – it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you’re up to – a light row or a dark row.

And that pretty much sums up the rules of making a buffalo plaid bracelet! See? No pattern needed! But I’ll give you one anyway.

Buffalo Plaid Bracelet Pattern Summary (for pros)

This is for those of you who just want the process in brief, without step-by-step photos. There is a printable version at the end of this post.

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Starting and finishing your bracelet

When it comes to classier friendship bracelets like this one, I like to give it that kind of respect. Therefore, I used the ribbon crimp method to finish this off.

This not only gives it a polished “real jewelry” touch, but it also allows it to be taken on and off more easily. It also makes it fabulous to stack with real jewelry. Simply make sure to get the correct size crimp. This will depend in part on the size of your string and the tension of your knots. I purchased this package which has a few sizes that are close enough that you have what to choose from.

There are more traditional ways to finish this off – you can read how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

Step by Step Tutorial for a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Supplies needed

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Thread snips
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Clasp and jump rings

Starting your bracelet

1. Cut your string as follows: Light: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Dark: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Medium: 13 feet. It can be hard to work with a very long string, so you may want to wrap it around a scrap of cardboard with wider ends, to make a mini skein.

2. Arrange your strings as follows: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Tape them down with a bit of tape. I found it best to start this bracelet flat and NOT with a knot. It’s just clearer. To do this, I started it taped in order (closer than pictured) to a surface. after one round, I was able to remove it from the surface. You can also simply lay it on a flat piece of tape in order, and place another piece of tape on top, if you prefer not to work attached to a surface.

Knotting your bracelet

To make this, you NEED to know how to make forward and backward knots. It’s not really a total beginner bracelet (although it’s not very complex.) If you don’t yet, first learn how to make a friendship bracelet and then come back to this tutorial.

Rule: you’re always moving your ONE medium colored string along to the next knot.

Row 1:

Work this row from left to right, moving your medium string along to the next position with each knot.

1. Start with your left (medium) string. Forward knot it around the string to its right (light) and pull tight.

2. Forward knot the same (medium) string around the next light to the right.

3. Backwards knot the next string to the right of your medium (dark) around the medium. The next string to the right will again be a dark. Backward knot it around your medium.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the next four strings. Forward knot your medium around the light to its right. You’ll have another light to its right so forward knot medium around it. The next string is a dark so backward knot the dark around the medium and repeat with the next dark.

Row 2:

Row two needs to look exactly like row one, only you’re working from right to left since your medium string is at the right.

5. Forward knot the dark to the left of your medium around your medium. This IS the string you just worked with.

6. Forward knot the next dark around medium.

7. Backward knot medium around the right to the left of it. Repeat with the next light that’s now to the left of it.

8. Repeat: Forward knot dark around medium, forward knot dark around medium, backward knot medium around dark, and backward knot medium around dark until you’re back at your starting point and your original string order.

Rows 3 & 4:

Row 3 works left to right, moving the medium along as you did before and row 4 mimics row 3, working from right to left.

9. Backward knot light around medium. Repeat with the next light to the right: backward knot around medium.

10. Forward knot medium around dark. Forward knot medium again around the next dark.

11. Repeat: Backward knot light around medium, and the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then around the next dark.

12. Repeat row 3 working from right to left. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium.

Repeat this process until your bracelet is almost long enough to wear! Leave an inch for the clasp and crimps.

Finishing it off

13. Carefully remove the starting tape and hold your strings so that they form a row no wider than the width of your bracelet. Place a thin line of hot glue where the strings end. Repeat on the finishing point of your bracelet. When the hot glue is totally dry, flip it over and repeat on the back .

14. When your hot glue is dry on both sides, attach a ribbon crimp to each end. Attach a clasp and connector to your ribbon crimp – or read this tutorial for how to add a clasp to a friendship bracelet. Your buffalo plaid bracelet is complete!

I hope you love your gorgeous buffalo plaid friendship bracelet and wear it all year long! Which color combination will YOU try? Comment below!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to make a gorgeous, sophisticated buffalo plaid firnedship bracelet - or micro macrame! This stunning winter accessory is simple to DIY and fun for teens through adults.

Print

Materials

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Clasp and connector - I used jump rings

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Thread snips

Instructions

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Notes

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

This bracelet follows basic rules:

• You're creating 4x4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot - either it's being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium - it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you're up to - a light row or a dark row.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet Pattern appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Clay heishi beads have taken over the beaded friendship bracelet craze – and it’s legit. They are inexpensive, lightweight, and still look so classy! Their matte finish and often muted colors make for gorgeous, affordable, wearable, and easy jewelry.

But what about necklaces?

I decided to share with you three unique clay bead necklace ideas using heishi beads. These are the same beads that I used in my beaded wristlet keychain tutorial – so go ahead and make that too!

First of all, what exactly are heishi beads, and do you need them to make these clay bead necklace ideas?

Heishi refers to the flat, smooth disc beads that come in many different materials – but are very often made from clay. You can get them in gemstones and they’ll have more weight.

All of these ideas can be done with heishi beads of any material. In fact, I even mixed it up with metal on two of the styles!

However, only the bar necklace and the linked one can easily be done with clay beads of any sort. For the pendant style, you’ll need a larger jumpring (and the one I used was already quite large.

3 Clay Bead Necklace Ideas

When trying to figure out which necklaces are best to make with clay heishi beads, I start by thinking in terms of my typical necklace styles. But heishi beads are very different, and clay beads in particular are as well.

Heishi beads have a much narrower visible space than your typical bead.

Clay beads are also very lightweight and don’t settle or hang much.

With that in mind, I did play around a little bit and created three styles of clay bead necklace ideas that worked great:

A bar necklace – this sits in the center of a mostly-chain necklace, adding class to it. It sits quite nicely on the neck and looks great as a shorter or mid-length necklace.

On this one, I interspersed it with metal disc spacers as well to add a bit of glam.

Linked necklace – Here, I made small single-color links of clay beads and joined them with fancy jump rings – though you can try other links too!

You can try this one linked all the way around, or finish it off with a more comfortable chain like I did. I find that clay beads tend to get a bit scratchy on the neck, and this is a bit more comfortable.

This clay bead necklace idea can be worn shorter or longer, depending on how you like it. You can make it super long if you do clay links all around instead of the chain.

Tiny pendant – If you’re getting tired of stringing on all those tiny clay beads, but maybe want to match up a set, you can make these tiny pendants.

Since they’re so small, I recommend them on shorter or medium chains – but not chokers. You can definitely also turn these into earrings. The charm in the center is optional – but it adds a lot of, you know, charm.

How to make clay bead necklaces

Of course, I’m sharing very specifically how I did these, however, switch them up as needed to add your own style or improve on it as you’d like.

You’ll need

• Jewelry pliers: round nose, chain nose, flush cutters. I used bail making pliers, but regular round nose pliers will do.
• 20-gauge beading wire
• Clay heishi beads
• Metal heishi beads (disc spacers)
• Fancy jumprings – look for thick, large, sturdy ones (link and pendant style only)
• Regular jumprings
• Chain by the yard – paperclip/long link chain is so pretty!
• Spring ring clasp
• Pendant bail (pendant only)
• Optional charm (pendant only)

Clay bead necklace idea 1 – bar necklace

1. Cut a piece of wire a few inches long. It should be at least an inch longer than you want your beaded portion to be, but be generous – you can trim, you can’t add.

Make a small loop at the end.

2. String on your clay beads.

I did blocks of a few at a time in different colors and placed metal spacers in between.

3. When you’re satisfied, trim off the excess besides for about 8-10 mm, and form a loop at the end. Slightly curve your bar.

4. Figure out the total desired length of your necklace. Subtract an inch for the clasp. Subtract the width of your beaded bar. Cut two equal pieces of chain to make up your final size.

5. Open your loop slightly, slide on the chain, and close it. Repeat on the other side.

6. Add a clasp using a jump ring. On the other side, connect a few jump rings to make the clasp easier to close (and adjustable in length).

Clay bead necklace idea 2 – links

1. Make a loop at the end of your wire.

2. Trim it to about 2 inches. Add a few beads to make up the length you want your link to be.

3. Trim your wire, leaving about 8-10 m,m and then make another loop.

5. Create as many links as you’d like on your final necklace (depending on how much of it you want beaded vs. just chain).

6. On this one, I did the chain a bit differently. This method is best if you want to actually measure it on yourself for length. Attach a fancy jumpring to the end link of your spool of chain. Connect a clay bead link to that. Keep linking jumprings and links, alternating between the two. Finish with an open jump ring.

7. Place the entire thing around your neck to figure out how much chain to cut. Figure about an inch for the clasp and connector. Cut your chain and connect it to the last jumpring.

8. At the halfway point, split your chain.

9. Attach a clasp and connector (jumpring – or a few jumprings) to the two ends of the chain.

Clay bead necklace idea 3 – minimalist pendant

1. Open a large fancy jump ring.

2. String on some clay beads. I did three on either side of a single metal spacer. You can add more, but it should hang nicely.

3. String on a pendant bail as well. Close your jumpring.

4. I felt like it was missing something, so I hung a star charm directly from the bail as well.

Wear this one on any finished chain.

I hope you enjoyed these three simple clay bead necklace ideas! Which is your favorite? Got any questions or tips? Comment below!

The post Clay Bead Necklace Ideas – 3 Ways appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Let me guess: you were walking through the bead aisle in Michaels, a beautiful mistake, and you happened upon gorgeous beads that you figured you’d wear on your wrist every day.

But you want to string it up with a clasp, and you don’t want to lose it.

I’m happy to share with you how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp – in a way that is so durable, I’ve worn it through dozens of showers and it’s still holding strong!

Yes, that is possible and I’m going to share with you my best techniques and tips for how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp!

I do recommend that you read through the “intro” to this post – it’s not a nostalgic take (though I can go there if you want…) it’s really full of tips and advice, consider it the introductory paragraphs if you were taking a “course” on the matter.

Tips for How to Make a Beaded Bracelet with a Clasp

Choosing your beads

Back in that bead aisle in Michaels, your possibilities are endless. The best way to choose your beads is to figure what’ll be most comfortable. What do you want on your wrist all day?

If you’re going for round beads, choose something on the smaller end. I used 8mm gemstone beads and they are a great size for weak-hand wearing. They are a bit bulky for wearing on my writing hand.

They are a gorgeous matte finish gemstone in a color palette that operates as a neutral, and has just the right amount of color. And if you follow me on social media, or on YouTube, you’ll see it presenting in many of my videos.

If you do want to go larger, choose a flat bead. Faceted beads can be used as well, but they’re not my favorite for bracelets.

Types of strings and string ends

Your stringing materials make a huge difference, and if you’ll be making a lot of these to sell, I recommend experimenting with a few types of strings and finishes when learning how to make a beaded bracelet with clasp.

My favorite stringing material that I find absolutely strongest, especially when attaching a clasp is tigertail wire. It’s made of metal wires, that are twisted together in fiber-style, making it flexible like a string but strong as a wire.

There are so many different ways you can finish off the ends. I’ve played with a lot of styles. I do love using crimp beads and crimp covers, however, they do often come off.

For these, I chose instead to use crimp cord ends. I glued the wire in for added durability, and then also crimped it very well.

You can play with different methods and do what works best for you. I made these in sterling silver so that they can last me a while.

When making mostly beaded bracelets, it’s worth using better metal like sterling. It uses minimal metal – so it’s not crazy expensive – but it makes it much more durable. And if you’re selling it, your profit margin for your labor can be higher, since you can mark it up more.

Choosing your clasp

The cool thing about bracelets is that you can really make a statement with your clasp! On this one, I chose a sterling silver toggle clasp. Since the clasp tends to move around your wrist, it helps if it’s pretty!

The biggest disadvantage of the toggle is that it can open. Make sure to look for a toggle clasp that doesn’t have too narrow a bar. You should need to pull it all the way through and then let it loose to close it.

How to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp – step by step

While there are so many techniques for how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp- and I’ve shared my tips above, this tutorial will focus specifically on how I did it.

Feel free to switch out supplies and techniques as it suits your needs.

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Supplies

• 8mm gemstone beads – smooth round (about 5 inches strung). Mine are Fancy Jasper
• 3mm sterling silver spacer beads
• Tigertail beading wire
• Weld Bond glue
• Sterling silver end crimps – narrow ones with loops
• Sterling silver toggle clasp
• Chain nose pliers and wire cutters
• Sterling silver wire (18-20 gauge, 18 preferred. Pricey but you’re only using a teensy bit for each bracelet)
• Wire looping pliers
• A surface to work on that’ll stop your beads from rolling (a beading mat works, I pulled out a ceramic tile and flipped it upside down because I couldn’t find mine!)

Process

1. Stick the end of your wire into the bottle of glue so that the tip (about the length of your cord end) is covered.

2. Place the crimp end over the glue.

3. Squeeze it shut as tight as you can using the chain nose pliers.

4. Start beading! I let the gorgeous beads speak for themselves and interspersed them with the spacers.

5. A standard sized adult bracelet is about seven inches long. Keep in mind the size of the end crimps and clasp combined and bead as much as you need to.

6. Spread some glue in the area right past the last bead on the wire. Just a thin coating works, and it should be about the length of the crimp end.

7. Grip the wire in that spot tightly using the thinnest part of the pliers that’ll still hold it securely. Use the wire cutters to trim your wire.

8. Holding it carefully so that the wire doesn’t slide out, slide on your crimp end. I found that holding my bracelet by the beads, pushing back on the beads, and holding it on a table surface worked best.

9. Crimp it well.

10. Because I don’t solder, and I want my bracelet to be really secure, I like to make split rings using sterling wire, instead of jumprings. To do this, simply wrap your wire from the very tip around your wire looping pliers 2-3 times.

11. Snip it off.

12. Attach the split ring to one side of yoru bracelet. You may want to open it slightly with your pliers.

13. Attach your clasp to the other end.

14. Squish the split ring shut using your pliers.

15. Repeat with the other half of the clasp.

You’ve successfully learned how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp. Which types of clasp is your favorite to use for this? Comment below!

DIY Beaded Bracelet with a Clasp

Print

Materials

• 8mm gemstone beads - smooth round (about 5 inches strung). Mine are Fancy Jasper
• 3mm sterling silver spacer beads
• Tigertail beading wire
• Weld Bond glue
• Sterling silver end crimps - narrow ones with loops
• Sterling silver toggle clasp
• Chain nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Sterling silver wire (18-20 gauge, 18 preferred)
• Wire looping pliers
• A surface to work on that'll stop your beads from rolling (a beading mat works, I pulled out a ceramic tile and flipped it upside down because I couldn't find mine!)

Instructions

1. Stick the end of your wire into the bottle of glue so that the tip (about the length of your cord end) is covered.

2. Place the crimp end over the glue.

3. Squeeze it shut as tight as you can using the chain nose pliers.

4. Start beading! I let the gorgeous beads speak for themselves and interspersed them with the spacers.

5. A standard sized adult bracelet is about seven inches long. Keep in mind the size of the end crimps and clasp combined and bead as much as you need to.

6. Spread some glue in the area right past the last bead on the wire. Just a thin coating works, and it should be about the length of the crimp end.

7. Grip the wire in that spot tightly using the thinnest part of the pliers that'll still hold it securely. Use the wire cutters to trim your wire.

8. Holding it carefully so that the wire doesn't slide out, slide on your crimp end. I found that holding my bracelet by the beads, pushing back on the beads, and holding it on a table surface worked best.

9. Crimp it well.

10. Because I don't solder, and I want my bracelet to be really secure, I like to make split rings using sterling wire, instead of jumprings. To do this, simply wrap your wire from the very tip around your wire looping pliers 2-3 times.

11. Snip it off.

12. Attach the split ring to one side of yoru bracelet. You may want to open it slightly with your pliers.

13. Attach your clasp to the other end.

14. Squish the split ring shut using your pliers.

15. Repeat with the other half of the clasp.

You've successfully learned how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp. Which types of clasp is your favorite to use for this? Comment below!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to make a beaded bracelet with clasp appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking into getting a laser engraver, you’ll find my thorough review of the LaserPecker LP5 laser engraver helpful! When you’re done, go ahead and try these fun wood and acrylic laser earrings. This post contains affiliate links.

Getting your first (or second, or third) laser engraver can be intimidating. When LaserPecker reached out to me to review their LP5 laser engraver, I decided that it’s a great way to help you approach this purchase with a bit more clarity.

They did send me a sample to review. Because I do not currently need another one with these specs, and so you can rest assured that my review is completely honest. In fact, when they reached out, I agreed to review it on the condition of complete and total transparency and honesty, and they agreed.

Below I’ll be sharing everything you need to know about the LaserPecker LP5 before purchasing, so that you can make an educated decision to purchase or not to.

I’m reviewing it from the perspective of someone who has some experience with laser engravers but wouldn’t be classified as a “pro” – so I’ll be able to evaluate usability from closer to your own skill level if you’re relatively new or an emerging laserengraver.

And one final note before I begin reviewing: all links to LaserPecker in this post ARE affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase, I ask that you do so through my link. I use lots of material while testing (including those I purchase myself, and pricey items too), and spend many many hours away from other work doing so. I also disable in-post ads on long reviews like this one, so your reading experience is smoother. Purchasing through my affiliate links is the only real compensation I get for this post, helps support my kids’ education, and costs you nothing extra. It is very much appreciated!

About the LaserPecker LP5

Technical Specs – Know what you’re purchasing

The LaserPecker LP5 is a 20 Watt Diode and 20 Watt Fiber laser engraver. Those are fabulous, effective specs for a multi-purpose laser engraver.

It is a compact laser engraver, with some cutting capability. It is a galvo laser. That means that the laser is moved around via mirrors (and not physically). This typically results in much faster speeds – and a slight angle for thick cuts that are not in the center. This is the same across all galvo lasers.

Here’s a quick list of specs:

• Dual laser sources:
  • 20 Watt (Blue) Diode Laser (≈ 450 nm): this is ideal for materials like wood, black acrylic, leather (PU or real), slate, ceramic, paper, cork, and silicone.
  • 20 Watt Fiber Laser (≈ 1064 nm) – this is for metals, such as stainless steel, aluminum, brass, titanium, silver, platinum, and engraving plastics. This also performs really well on slate.
• Maximum working speed: up to 10,000 mm/s – thanks to the Galvo laser
• Cutting depth:
  • Diode: up to 20 mm Basswood, 15 mm black acrylic
  • Fiber: up to 1 mm brass, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium sheets
• Engraving Area:
  • Basic engraving area (ellipse): 120 × 160 mm (around 4.7×6.3 inches)
  • Square engraving area: 100 × 100 mm (3.9×3.9 inches)

The cutting and engraving area is expandable with a slide extension (which I have not tested)

• Laser spot size:
  • Diode: 0.08 × 0.1 mm
  • Fiber: 0.06 × 0.06 mm
• Positioning and motion accuracy: 0.0027 mm
• Image resolution options: 1K / 2K / 4K / 8K
• Software support: LaserPecker Design Space (mobile app and PC), and LightBurn (Diode only)
• Supported file formats:
  • PC: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG, DXF, etc.
  • Mobile: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG
• Connection methods: USB and Wi-Fi
• Supported operating systems:
  • Mobile: iOS 9.0+ (or 13.0+ per one page), Android 7.0+
  • Desktop: Windows 10+, macOS 10.15+
• Dimensions:
  • Laser Unit: 255 × 98 × 183 mm / 10.04 × 3.86 × 7.21 in
  • Electric Stand: 198 × 286 × 323 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
  • Conical Protective Cover: 167 × 231 × 160 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
• Weight:
  • Laser unit: 3.36 kg / 7.41 lb
  • Electric stand: 2.28 kg / 5.03 lb
  • Protective cover: 0.38 kg / 0.84 lb
  • Total: ~6.02 kg / 13.27 lb
• Preview Modes: Offers live preview options: Rectangle Preview, Outline Preview, and Center Point Preview
• Optional Accessories:
  • Slide Extension (expands working area)
  • Rotary Extension (engravable cylinders — 1 mm to 145 mm diameter)
  • Air Purifier
  • Safety Enclosure (with camera – reviewed below)

Unboxing – What you get

In the box, you get everything you need to get started including:

• The laser head – a separate unit that can needs to be supported in one of these ways:
  • With the cone attached, held against an object
  • On the stand
  • On the safety enclosure
• The stand base
• The stand
• A cone enclosure
• Manual
• Connection cables
• Ventilation ducts/connectors
• A starter material packet
• Safety goggles (win!)
• A toolkit in a case (win!)
• Positioning brackets with screws to use in the threaded base
• A cutting plate
• A USB drive

Feature rundown

The LaserPecker LP5 has loads of features, which I’ll outline here. This is not an exhaustive list – it’s a focus on the features I’ve been evaluating.

• Various engraving options – This is a PORTABLE laser engraver, which means you have a handheld unit that you can use anywhere. To make it doable, it has a cone attachment that connects around the laser head. Lean it on something and you can engrave. Or, use the stand, with the base for a desktop setup. You can also use it with larger items as it’s not “self-contained” – so there’s no limit on object size to engrave, just on engrave area. There’s also a full enclosure which is limited in size. I’ll review that separately below.
• Threaded base with brackets – You can easily position items for repeat engraving using the L brackets that are included.
• Up down physical buttons on the stand allow you to focus easily. Long press and it continues going, eliminating the need for repeated pressing.
• Engraving directly from USB – You will go through your device to run the engrave, but this allows for more fast and efficient engraving and reduces disconnect.
• Emboss, engrave, cut modes – You can deep emboss, engrave, score, or cut various materials.
• Easy carry handle – It features a handle on the top for easy transport and portability. Overall, the structure is one that’s easy to move around.
• Magnetic safety shield – You can remove the orange safety shield on the cone to give you access to the item you’re engraving, move it around. It is attached with strong magnets and comes on and off easily.
• Easy to remove side vent allows you easy access for cleaning and maintenance.

Software Overview

The brand software of LaserPecker is called LaserPecker Design Space. It is kind of a “known fact” that their software kind of lags behind others in user-friendliness.

You can use LightBurn with the LP5, however, only with the diode laser.

I found LaserPecker Design Space quite cumbersome to use, but also found that it had some features that were beneficial. For starters, they do have good image conversion features, especially for beginners. And while their design tools aren’t advanced, if you’re designing off-app (like me for the most part) that doesn’t matter.

What I did find most cumbersome was the whole panel where you work the settings. The workflow there isn’t very efficient, you can’t move around your artwork while framing, you have tabs that should always show but sometimes don’t… You get used to it after a number of uses.

One BIG advantage is that they do have an extensive clipart library.

In a nutshell: there is a learning curve, there aren’t good presets, but it’s definitely more than workable, can do what you need, and you WILL learn.

LaserPecker LP5 Review and Analysis of the Enclosure

What is the enclosure?

The enclosure is a full standalone unit that completely replaces the stand. You attach the laser head with the handle to the top opening, reconnect all those little cables, the exhaust, and then use it as is. It’s a self-contained unit that totally seals it off and has its own base that moves up and down.

Enclosure features

One of the biggest perks of the enclosure is that it allows your work to be fully enclosed – with no light leak. While the main unit has a cone cover, it moves up and down with the laser head, so you usually have a bit of a gap with light leakage there.

The enclosure is… fully enclosed. It has magnetic front and back doors so that you can engrave something longer – but then it’s not fully enclosed. It does have a stop feature that pauses engraving if the door is opened in middle.

The enclosure also adds a camera feature to the mix so you can preview your work area and blank from the screen.

More features/quick specs:

• Dimensions: 310 × 350 × 345mm / 12.20 × 13.78 × 13.58 in
• Weight: 8.9kg / 19.62 lb
• Automatic fill for engraving multiple items
• Optimal working area is the same – as it’s dependent on the laser output.

Enclosure vs. no enclosure

So do you want to use the enclosure or not?

The biggest advantage of the enclosure as far as I’m concerned is that it’s just so much easier to position your design using the camera. I did run into some hiccups with it and needed to calibrate it a few times before getting it right, and once again, the software for this is not intuitive. But once I had it set up, it was so much easier.

It also contains the fumes better and makes the air purification more effective, and of course offers no light leakage.

The biggest disadvantage of using it with the enclosure is that it’s just not compact that way. One of the biggest perks overall of the LP5 (which I will highlight below) is its compact size. It truly allows it to stand out in the market. You lose that with the enclosure. It turns it more into a full-sized laser engraver BUT you sill have the portability.

If you tend to use your laser engraver on your desktop but want the possibility to move it around, the enclosure is still a really cool optional feature to have.

Overall LaserPecker LP5 Review

This section of the LaserPecker LP5 review is designed simply to show you what I personally liked or didn’t like about it. When choosing a laser engraver, focus on your own needs, how much the pros meet those, and to what degree the cons don’t contradict your needs.

Pros of the LaserPecker LP5

• Compact size – is perfect for smaller spaces. Its footprint is very small and it can simply sit on a tiny corner of a desk.
• Portable – It’s not only small, it’s also lightweight and easy to transport with the carry handle. That means that for lighter use, it can even be stored up on a shelf, brought to markets…
• Enclosure – This fully enclosed zero light leak setup allows me to move around the room and do other things during longer runtimes without annoying goggles.
• Large item engraving – Since it can be placed on any surface, it can be used to engrave logos on handmade furniture, addresses on wall bricks, or anything anywhere really – as long as you can vent it and power it on. There is only an engraving size limit, no object/surface size limit.
• Individual previews – A more obscure feature that I loved that is not to be taken for granted is the fact that it shows each element as its own preview when you preview your engrave. That means that if you are engraving ten pens with different names, each one will show as a separate rectangle – not as one long rectangle. That allows me to position it for better engraving.
• Extremely accurate engraving with fine detail
• Galvo laser gives extremely high speeds – fabulous for batch processing, despite working area limits.
• Sturdy and solid – Its compact size and relatively light weight does not come at the cost of feeling cheep. It is a solid, metal piece and has weight to it – though a very manageable weight.
• Outline preview – the light preview can show a rectangle or outline. The outline mode is very stable and easy to use.
• Dual lasers open up a world of possibilities – and both have decent entry-level power. There are so many things this can engrave that it makes it a perfect machine for those who aren’t looking to set up a huge workshop with dedicated machines for each material type.

Cons of the LaserPecker LP5

• No adjustments in preview – when using the light preview feature, you can’t adjust your design. I do personally use that feature a lot but keep in mind that you CAN adjust your material.
• No curve map – I’d love to see them add software capabilities for curved surface engraving on the enclosure! It has a camera so that would be a great addition. Now, you’d need to use the rotary, which I haven’t tried personally, to do a tumbler.
• Software learning curve – As I mentioned above, the software is not very intuitive and has a steep learning curve, and some quirks.
• No good material settings library – While you’ll typically want to run your own material tests for things you plan to engrave and cut, a material settings library is a very good jumpstart. I found LaserPecker’s to be lacking and hard to understand. I recommend keeping your own spreadsheet, and finding starting points in their project library and Facebook groups.
• Slow file transfer – Unless you’re working from the USB, it sends each item individually – and is so slow. You need to combine every element on the design into one shape to enhance speed.

LaserPecker LP5 Material Tests and Results

When it comes to writing a laser engraver review, material tests are so helpful in indicating what you can or can’t do with your machine, and what it’ll take to get each material done, how well it performs, etc. It’s a great way to analyze whether a machine is right for you.

But it comes with a caveat: it’s endless. When working on this LaserPecker LP5 review, my goal was to get a good overview and sampling. If you want to know a specific material, feel free to drop a comment or email me and I’m happy to guide you on it!

Meanwhile, I tried my own top used materials and shared the results of some gifts I’m making too, and things I’m personalizing for my own kids.

Wood Engraving and Cutting

The LaserPecker LP5 can engrave different types of wood and can cut up to 20mm basswood.

Bamboo Pens (Diode engraving)

I love engraving these bamboo pens for gifts for everyone – counselors, teachers, family. They are also a very hot seller.

They engraved nicely and quicky, with the basic unevenness that you’ll pretty much always find in bamboo engravings. The trick is to keep the design small enough that it doesn’t curve and fade on the edges.

Wood Keychains (Diode engraving)

This is another blank that engraves beautifully. It’s easy to get a nice, deep engrave on these and they make fun swag and handouts. I engraved my husband’s logo on these.

Basswood Plywood (Diode engraving and cutting)

I tested the 3mm basswood plywood that came with the sample pack by engraving my own logo and cutting out a circle around it. The fine detail on this isn’t the greatest because my logo doesn’t scale well (note to the designer – me!) However, it engraved easily and quickly. It cut well as well – I personally prefer to do a few passes at higher speeds and get very little charring that way.

Metal Engraving, Deep Embossing and Cutting

Since I’m a jewelry designer, and the 20 watt fiber laser is a standout feature on the LP5, I focused a lot of my material tests for my LaserPecker LP5 review around metal.

It performed as expected for a 20 watt fiber. It performed best on brass. Sterling silver is a bit more complex to cut because of its high thermal conductivity.

The LP5 can cut up to 1mm of brass – which I did not test, but figuring that I embossed that deep, cutting should be a no-brainer.

Challenge Coin (Fiber Deep Embossing)

One of the coolest things you can do with a fiber laser is deep embossing… and challenge coins are quite popular. I am so not into them so I really honestly didn’t feel like trying it – but then I realized it’s a great test to see how it would perform on brass signet rings.

I should have just gotten a brass signet ring because the surface area is so much smaller, which makes the engrave time much shorter.

I ended up running it twice, once since one time it got disconnected. HOwever, it did do a great job and look forward to eventually trying a signet ring. I plan to keep designs simpler – just because that’s my style, rather than the complex designs. I ran the coin test to push it to the max.

Once I got to see this, I figure it’ll do even better on the simpler deep emboss projects I plan to run on brass.

I did polish these up with a rotary tool and a steel brush.

Aluminum Stamping Blank (Fiber Engraving)

Stamping blanks are a nice, soft metal and I wanted to see how well they engrave. I did this super quick heart and it zapped it in a second. This is a super fun, affordable customizable jewelry option.

Coated Tumblers (Fiber Engraving)

I engraved a monkey from the clipart library on my son’s tumbler, and once again, it went okay. However, I was very limited in the width of the design without the rotary, so if you plan to do these, get the rotary. I wish they had a curve mapping feature so I could do this without a rotary – I really only like to use a rotary extension for full wraps.

Coated Aluminum Sheet/Business Card (Fiber Engraving and Cutting)

These popular business cards go so fast with the galvo Fiber, however I never thought to cut them! The material sample pack came with a sheet version and it cut like a charm (no pun intended). I don’t think I’d use this for jewelry, however it can be fabulous for engraved inlaid plaques or any other inlay as it comes in many different colors. You can also do die cut aluminum business cards as a premium product, or even make clip-on bookmarks with it.

Since it’s a thin material you don’t have the slanted edge issue.

Brass (Engraving and Cutting)

Brass up to 1mm can be cut, however, I went a bit thinner to test it for brass inlays. I cut .2mm brass sheet and again, it just sliced right through it like butter.

It engraved beautifully as well, and once again, brass is a favorite material to work with.

925 Sterling Silver (Engraving and Cutting)

Sterling is more challenging with a laser engraver. I did manage to cut 24 gauge sterling. You always want to tape it down to secure it, as it’s lightweight and the fans can blow it out of place.

It engraves beautifully, and this charm was already claimed by my four year old!

Black Cast Acrylic Engraving (Fiber) and Cutting (Diode)

Acrylic is a popular material for laser crafters and while it can be cut using a diode laser, you’re really better off with a CO2 laser if you plan to dedicate yourself to different colored acrylic.

However, those are very pricey, harder to maintain, and the diode laser can cut many colors of acrylic. When it comes to a diode laser, black acrylic is really your best bet – and it can look adorable!

I made these name keychains for my son’s day camp counselors using 3mm black acrylic. It works quickly and effectively. I engraved using the fiber laser, which looks fabulous and gives a high contrast.

Cutting acrylic is tricky because of the angle, however, in small projects like this it doesn’t matter. It was centered vertically and the angling isn’t really prominent.

I engraved the thank you message in tiny on the back and it’s nice and sharp. I designed the whole thing in LaserPecker Design Space (the font is a system/self-owned font, not an app font).

Leather and Leatherette Engraving and Cutting

I’ve shared before that I’m NOT the biggest fan of working with a laser on leather just because of the fumes and the inconsistency between various leathers. However, I did test it here and it worked quite well, as expected.

Leatherette Hat Patch (Diode Engraving)

I engraved a black-to-silver adhesive hat patch with my logo. My settings were too strong and it engraved right through the coating, so yes, you’ll want to run tests and be very accurate with your focusing.

I like how the silver outline looks, though.

PU Leather (Diode Engraving and Cutting)

The sample pack came with a sheet of PU leather. I didn’t love how it engraved, but again, it’s leather dependent and you’ll want to test different PU leather types, run test grids, etc. so that you get the perfect engrave.

It cut beautifully and I was pleasantly surprised. I might rethink my whole attitude towards lasers and leather.

Genuine Leather (Engraving and Cutting)

I also engraved a piece of leather that I had at home and, well, the results are again the leather’s fault. It went beautifully through the top layer – but it’s too close in color to the surface to be visible. Colored leather or leather with a different core would look quite different. I need to try burning raw tooling leather now!

It cut nicely – I need to tweak my settings so it cuts a bit better – but again, I’m thinking that maybe I DO like laser cutting leather after all!

Slate Coaster (rock) Fiber Deep Embossing

I don’t think I am ever doing a deep emboss on slate ever again – the dust is next level – but it did a gorgeous job. Here’s where I ran into issues: I should have run it from the USB. After a few hours of embossing, it disconnected, didn’t manage t continue, and I was done. I had designed something special for it – I wanted to try for that layered water look with a resin fill – but I had to let it go so that I can get this review live, as it takes many, many hours to emboss slate of this size.

When it comes to any deep embossing, it’ll take much longer and majorly lag between layers if you don’t work from the USB. You’ll want to run these from the USB only. Trust me.

LaserPecker LP5 Final Review and Analysis

In a nutshell

To summarize: the LaserPecker LP5 is a dual laser engraver that’s a powerhouse for engraving loads of materials including metal, wood, slate, PU leather and genuine leather, and more.

It’s got a 20 watt fiber and 20 watt diode laser which is quite effective at engraving a variety of materials. Since it’s a galvo laser, its cuts tend to angle a bit. This matters more on larger cuts on thicker materials. For that reason, smaller cuts on thinner materials can still cut very efficiently, and cuts that matter less (that don’t need to join accurately) can still be done very effectively.

It’s a very compact laser engraver, with its small footprint, portability, and storability being one of my favorite perks.

The software has a steep learning curve but is learnable, and there’s no really good consolidated material library, so you’ll want to collect data and do full grid tests before starting your product line.

The unit with the stand has its own cover that does have some light leakage on some thicker materials, but that cover can be held up against surfaces to allow for protected engraving. The unit does come with safety goggles, a fabulous bonus.

It’s got loads of convenience and usability features and despite the steep learning curve it is a fabulous entry level, small business, on-site market, or secondary machine.

Is it right for you?

I always recommend that when making an investment purchase like the LaserPecker LP5, you start with a lists of musts and a list of “good to haves.” Once you covered those, here’s my advice:

If you’re looking for:

• a mid-market reliable laser engraver that’s
• perfect for small cuts, jewelry, and engraving or
• is portable and has a small footprint and doesn’t require a dedicated workshop and
• can cut and engrave a larger range of materials well rather than being highly specialized for a narrow range of materials

the LaserPecker LP5 is probably the right machine for you.

Feel free to drop a comment with your specific needs and I’ll let you know if I feel it’s the best fit for you – or just email me!

Get it here!

You can get the LaserPecker LP5 here and the safety enclosure here! Or, if you prefer, you can get it on Amazon!

The post LaserPecker LP5 Review – 20 Watt Fiber and Diode Laser Engraver appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

While fabric bracelets have been around for the longest time, definitely since my early blogging days, they’ve recently gained steam as bandana bracelets, although you can still use fun fabric scraps to make them.

There are so many different ways to make them and I’ve even shared two fun ideas for how to make braided bandana bracelets!

Now what about tying them off? Today I’m going to show you how to tie a bandana bracelet using four different techniques.

Now, while some of these might seem similar, they each have unique advantages and use scenarios. Some were born from having cut the fabric too short – but still fit in as an ideal solution. Some are more standard.

Whatever your reasons or your choice, I hope you find this tutorial for how to tie a bandana bracelet super helpful!

Watch the YouTube video for how to tie a bandana bracelet

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

How to tie a bandana bracelet 4 ways – Written Instructions

Method 1: Basic Tie (Big or Small)

The most obvious way to tie a bandana bracelet is to simply form two bunny ears and tie the sides together twice.

You can do this by keeping it small and compact or leaving it longer for the bandana/scarf style look.

Tying it shorter will make it harder to open and close. My recommendation would be to tie it just large enough to go over the wearer’s fists so that it can be slide on and off. It works best with fabrics that have a tiny bit of stretch so that they can be made small enough that they won’t slide off.

Tying a larger knot will make it easier to open and close. It will make things like writing and typing harder but it’s a summer camp type craft that kids can still have fun with, wear outside of school, or on their weak hand. And again, it’s more removable that way.

Method 2: Bow

I did not photograph this method (oops) but I did try tying a bow on once bracelet. This is best for bracelets that have longer and thinner bandanas, like the infinity bracelet that I made.

This allows it to be removable, and you don’t have to use extra hardware or findings. It also gives it a fun scarf-like look.

Method 3: Separate Ribbon

One of my favorite ways to maintain that scarf look but keep it a bit more compact is to use a separate ribbon to tie it. I did this also because I cut some of them too short, but again, it’s a great way to tie a bandana bracelet regardless.

Supplies:

• Ribbon crimps in assorted sizes
• Pliers
• Jumprings
• Ribbon (I used lace ribbon)
• Scissors
• Your bracelet that you’re finishing.

Step by step process for tying a bandana bracelet with a separate ribbon:

1. Begin by trimming the fabric on your bracelet to just barely fit around your wrist.

2. Fold the ends of the bracelet to fit neatly into a ribbon end crimp and crimp it shut. Note: You can use wider or narrower crimps for this – choose one that will comfortably fit your fabric!

Do this on each end.

3. Attach a jump ring to each end.

4. Cut a piece of ribbon about ten inches long (test your length – you need one that’ll comfortably tie a bow). Thread it through the two jump rings.

5. Tie your bow! It’s much more comfortable to wear than the full bulk of the bandana, you can swap them out to match different outfits, and it’s relatively easy to open and close.

Method 4: Clasp Closure

The final most polished way is to use an actual clasp to tie a bandana bracelet and not a ribbon. This has the most professional finish and is a great option if you’re selling your craft.

You do lose some of the charm of the bandana tie but it will really make your bracelet much more wearable.

To finish your bracelet with a clasp, simply follow the steps for the separate ribbon above. Instead of adding a ribbon through the loops, use smaller jumprings and attach a clasp.

I hope you enjoyed learning how to tie a bandana bracelet! Which is your favorite method? Comment below!

4 Ways to Finish Off Bandana Bracelets

While fabric bracelets have been around for the longest time, definitely since my early blogging days, they've recently gained steam as bandana bracelets, although you can still use fun fabric scraps to make them.

There are so many different ways to make them and I've even shared two fun ideas for how to make braided bandana bracelets!

Now what about tying them off? Today I'm going to show you how to tie a bandana bracelet using four different techniques.

Print

Materials

• Ribbon crimps in assorted sizes
• Pliers
• Jumprings
• Ribbon (I used lace ribbon)
• Scissors
• Your bracelet that you're finishing.

Instructions

Method 1: Basic Tie (Big or Small)

You can do this by keeping it small and compact or leaving it longer for the bandana/scarf style look.

Tying it shorter will make it harder to open and close. My recommendation would be to tie it just large enough to go over the wearer's fists so that it can be slide on and off. It works best with fabrics that have a tiny bit of stretch so that they can be made small enough that they won't slide off.

Tying a larger knot will make it easier to open and close. It will make things like writing and typing harder but it's a summer camp type craft that kids can still have fun with, wear outside of school, or on their weak hand. And again, it's more removable that way.

Method 2: Bow

This is best for bracelets that have longer and thinner bandanas, like the infinity bracelet that I made.

This allows it to be removable, and you don't have to use extra hardware or findings. It also gives it a fun scarf-like look.

Method 3: Separate Ribbon

1. Begin by trimming the fabric on your bracelet to just barely fit around your wrist.

2. Fold the ends of the bracelet to fit neatly into a ribbon end crimp and crimp it shut. Note: You can use wider or narrower crimps for this - choose one that will comfortably fit your fabric!

Do this on each end.

3. Attach a jump ring to each end.

4. Cut a piece of ribbon about ten inches long (test your length - you need one that'll comfortably tie a bow). Thread it through the two jump rings.

5. Tie your bow! It's much more comfortable to wear than the full bulk of the bandana, you can swap them out to match different outfits, and it's relatively easy to open and close.

Method 4: Clasp Closure

The final most polished way is to use an actual clasp to tie a bandana bracelet and not a ribbon. This has the most professional finish and is a great option if you're selling your craft.

You do lose some of the charm of the bandana tie but it will really make your bracelet much more wearable.

To finish your bracelet with a clasp, simply follow the steps for the separate ribbon above. Instead of adding a ribbon through the loops, use smaller jumprings and attach a clasp.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to tie a bandana bracelet appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When I first saw the bandana bracelet trend hit, I knew I HAD to jump on board! I have so many fabric scraps (no, you do not need to use bandanas but I’ll share some feedback and advice on choosing fabrics below.) I love a good, easy, colorful bracelet craft, so why not share some ideas in this space?

True to my style, instead of creating a quick tutorial, I decided to create an in-depth guide for how to make it so that you can really learn the ins and outs. Many of my readers here are group craft coordinators and not just individual crafters, and I think that it’s important to understand the nuances of different styles, materials, and ways to craft something before doing it with a group.

So my goal is not just to teach you how to make bandana bracelets, but to explore the different styles you can make, techniques you can use, and materials that are best.

Different styles of bandana bracelets

There are a few different visual styles for bandana or fabric based bracelets. Here, I’ll go over them quickly so you can get an idea of what you want to make.

Wrap

Such a bracelet would have a longer fabric, and you can wrap it around a few times before tying it. This is the only style I didn’t craft for this tutorial, but I wanted to bring it up for you here.

Single

The classic bandana bracelets feature a single length of fabric, tied in a knot, with charms and/or beads. I’ll go into that further below.

Sometimes the fabric can be thick and bulky enough in relation to the embellishments, but usually you’ll want to tie simple knots to hold the elements in place.

Infinity

An infinity bandana bracelet basically uses a 2-part fabric with a component in the center to connect two lengths of fabric. This is a fabulous way to make shorter lengths more useful (such as by combining it with the wrap bracelet method) or just for interest.

In my tutorial, I used an actual infinity charm, but you can also use a larger jumpring or decorative ring connected with fabric on each side. You’ll want a nice way to finish off those knots that you use to tie the fabric on.

Braided

Braided bandana bracelets are their own huge category, since there are many ways to make it, and I already shared a separate tutorial for making those.

They can also be combined with charms or beads and are a fun way to make bandana bracelets have a rope-like look.

What to use to make Bandana Bracelets

The two main supplies you’ll need are fabric and embellishments. You’ll also need good fabric scissors of course, and there are many “extras” you can use to finish it off.

Which fabric should you use

While bandana bracelets were coined for using with bandanas, they don’t have to be. I wanted to get these tutorials out already and didn’t have bandanas handy, so I made them using fabric scraps. One thing I noticed is that you want to get as close to the quality of the bandana as possible: a tighter weave. The fabric doesn’t have to be super stiff like a bandana, but it should have that non-fray finish.

I used two types of fabric: a stiffer fat quarter fabric (above) that worked beautifully and a softer linen-like fabric (below) that frayed like crazy. There are things you can do to prevent fray (seal it with an anti-fray solution, for example, or fix up the edges with clear nail polish).

But if you’re not using bandanas – which ARE a great solution here – at least choose a fabric that doesn’t unravel easily.

Adding Charms

It’s so much fun to add charms to bandana bracelets , and yes, it’s most crafters’ go-to. It adds a slightly upper scale quality to a craft that is by nature more of a “crafty” base. You can use ANY charms if you have a nice-sized, sturdy jump ring. You can get special large-ring charms. My goal was “craft with what you have” so I simply pulled out jumprings and basic charms for this.

Adding in beads

Beads work fabulously when learning how to make bandana bracelets, but your main challenge will be getting it onto the thick fabric!

You’ll want to look for large-hole beads. You can get wood ones like I used, or go for large-hole acrylic beads, charm-bracelet beads, or anything that you want.

My trick was to cut the edge of the fabric into triangle notches to make stringing easier – more on that in the step-by-step tutorial, of course!

How do you tie bandana bracelets

I’m going to be exploring a whole separate post on how to tie a bandana bracelet, since I do want to show you a few ways more clearly but I’ll go over this quickly here.

Tying a bow

The classic way to close your bandana bracelet WILL be with a simple bunny-ear knot. You’ll want to leave enough string for this, and you’ll probably need help putting it on and off.

One trick is to close it at just the right size that you can wiggle your hand through while it’s knotted and it won’t be too big while wearing it. This is TOTALLY doable, and is what I did in all of these posts that show me wearing it that style.

Making a permanent closure

Another more professional way to finish these off is to treat it like a ribbon or cord in jewelry making. To do this, you’ll use ribbon end crimps or cord ends. This allows you to add a clasp and adjustable chain for a much more polished finish. Again, I plan to do a whole separate post on this so make sure you sign up for updates or follow me on social!

You WILL lose the “scarf” look that the tie gives it, but it’ll be much more long-lasting this way.

How to make bandana bracelets

You’ll need

• Bandanas or other fabric – stiff is better, and fat quarters work great
• Fabric scissors (I recommend having one like this and another to work with details.) Save these scissors to use only with fabric to keep them sharp and in perfect working order.
• Large hole wood beads AND/OR Charms and jump rings
• A center “connector” piece for the infinity bracelet – an infinity symbol or large circle works.
• Pliers to work with the charms

YouTube Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Instructions

Regular charm bandana bracelet

1. Cut a length of fabric. The width should be about two inches. The length should be ideally the length of a bandana or about 18-24 inches (longer is better – you can always trim it down).

Cut that piece in half on the diagonal – from the bottom left corner to the top right. It doesn’t need to be perfect. You now have a pointed end to string things on from.

2. Make a knot a few inches from the wide end.

3. Connect your charms to jump rings. String them on from the skinny end. String on beads if you’d like. Arrange them as you’d like them to be. You an open and adjust your starting knot as needed.

4. Tie a knot at the other end to hold your charms on and trim your bracelet. Your knotted and charmed portion should be in the center of the final bracelet.

Tie it up and wear it proudly!

Infinity Style Bandana Bracelet

1. To make the infinity style bracelet, we took the second half of the fabric that we cut in step one of the regular one. cut it in half from the center of the wide side to the point.

2. Take your center connector charm/ring. Thread the skinny end of one of your fabric strips through one side.

3. Tie it in place, leaving a tail of about 2-3 inches of the skinny fabric, and a longer tail of fabric that’ll make up the body of your bracelet.

4. Repeat with the other string on the other side.

5. To help secure the “tail string’ and make my piece secure, I like to thread a bead over it. It’s a bit harder to start this one since you’ll need to go over the wider end fabric. Slide your bead over both tails of fabric from the end, close to the center connector.

6. Tie it in place with an overhand knot on the other side. This knot should basically include the shorter tail of thinner fabric and hide the end of it (trim it if that tail is too long) so that now you only have one strip of fabric on each side of your bracelet.

Your infinity bandana bracelet is ready to tie off!

Scarf Style Bandana Bracelet

To get more of a scarf (rather than a ropey) look, I adapted the tutorial of the first method just a bit! I also used the better (less fraying – stiffer) fabric for this one.

1. Cut a piece of fabric about 2-3 inches wide and 18-24 long (longer is better – you can always trim it).

Cut off the corners on each end into a triangle.

2. For this one, I just used a single focal charm in the center to allow the bracelet to “fluff” out more like a scarf.

Attach your charm to a jumpring and slide it to the center of your bracelet.

3. Tie a knot on each side to secure the charm in place.

4. And yes, that is it. Just tie the ends into a bow, and fluff out the ends of the bracelet on either side of the charm as much as you’d like to make it look like a scarf.

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make bandana bracelets! This is a fabulous group project – just put out an assortment of supplies – or every day boredom buster to make in whichever color schemes you’re feeling at the moment!

The post How to Make Bandana Bracelets – Loads of Ideas! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Bandana bracelets are the latest trend and I’m all in! I have a few posts on this in the works, including a tutorial on different was to tie them, a post with a few more basic ideas and general tips.

But meanwhile, I wanted to share with you two ways to make braided bandana bracelets.

Now, you may have noticed that I didn’t use real bandanas, because I just wanted to craft with what I had handy… So I used “fat quarters“! I’ll offer more fabric tips in my main post when it goes live (make sure you sign up for updates or follow me on social!)

Of course, you can use real bandanas – or try it with t-shirts, old jeans/denim clothing, or anything fabric! In fact, it’s a great way to repurpose old and torn clothing – so let’s get crafting!

My best tip: choose a fabric with a tighter weave to minimize shedding. That is, not a loose, soft, linen-y fabric (light the light blue) rather a stiffer fabric that feels more like a bandana (like the blue and gold one).

2 types of Braided Bandana Bracelets

I created these two ways with different accessories.

Magic Braid with (or without) Charms

On one, I used the “magic braid” method. This is a method that has you only braid the middle portion so that the sides are totally intact!!

This makes for a more secure bracelet (although I did use the wrong fabric on mine.)

On this bracelet, I added a single charm, threaded onto one of the running strings. You can add a few charms, but I wanted to use this key one which looks great on its own.

You can learn more about how to make a magic braid bracelet here.

Regular Braid – Beads, Charms Blank

The other one uses a regular braid – just knot the three strands together. This one I cut too short (oops). I will share how to tie a bandana bracelet in another post but meanwhile, just make sure to leave enough length to tie your bracelets off!

On this one, I decided to teach you how to add beads to braided bandana bracelets. It’s very simple as long as you get good, large-hole beads. You can also do this one with charms, of course, and in the images you get a peek at the non-braid bandana bracelets post I’m working on.

These braided bandana bracelets are a really fun craft to put out at a party. Give kids an assortment of fabrics and bandanas – pre-cut or not. Hand them the large-hole beads, the charms, and a small assortment of tools and fabric scissors. Put out some samples for inspiration and let them get crafting!

How to make braided bandana bracelets

Supplies Needed

• Bandanas or other fabric – stiff is better, and fat quarters work great
• Fabric scissors (I recommend having one like this and another to work with details.) Save these scissors to use only with fabric to keep them sharp and in perfect working order.
• Large hole wood beads AND/OR Charms and jump rings
• Pliers to work with the charms

Process

Magic Braid Bandana Bracelet

1. All measurements are approximate. This is supposed to be a “fun” craft – not one where you pull out rulers.

Cut a strip of the bandana or fabric. If using a bandana, use the whole length. If using fabric, do about 1.5-2 feet in length (longer is better, you can always trim it later).

It should be about 2 inches wide. IF your fabric is very stiff, you can go a bit narrower.

2. Fold your fabric in half. Cut two slits about two inches deep at about 1/3 increments. Keep in mind that your bracelet fabric twists, so you want it generally even in spacing but it doesn’t have to be very accurate.

3. Unfold. You’re now going to braid those three center portions of your fabric strip.

4. Braid left over center and then right over the new center.

5. Take the bottom end of the bracelet and bring it from the back to the front through one of your slits. Straighten your bracelet. You’ll see a braid forming from both sides – the bottom and top.

6. Continue braiding – left over center and right over center. Bring the bottom end from back to front through the other slit – that you did not do before.

7. When you straighten it out, it should look like this – a braid formed from both directions.

8. I recommend making your braid quite tight. I did another set of braids – left over center, right over center, bring to the front, alternating which slit you bring it through. You should have a tightly braided ropey center.

9. To add a charm: Open a jumpring (get one large enough to fit over the cut bandana/fabric comfortably. Pull out one string of your braid enough to get a comfortable opening.

10. Place the jumpring on that bit of fabric.

11. Hang the charm and close the jumpring. Repeat with more charms if you’d like.

Beaded Braid Bandana Bracelet

1. Cut three even strips of fabric or bandana. Each one was about half an inch wide and I actually didn’t make it long enough – so follow my size guidelines above: about 22 inches long – you can always trim it later. This is a thicker fabric, meaning I was able t make thinner stripes.

2. At the bottom end of each, cut off the two corners to form a point.

3. Tie the ends together at the top, leaving enough “extra” on top to tie it after (4-5 inches)

4. Start braiding! I did three full sets of right over center and left over center.

5. Curl the notched end and thread a bead onto your center strip. You should be able to nudge it into the bead and through it quite easily if you’re using a nice, stiff fabric, large hole bead, and cut that point.

6. Braid three more (left over center, right over center, left over center) and thread on another bead.

7. Repeat step 6 with another bead (right over center, left over center, right over center and bead). Braid six (3 sets) like you did in the beginning.

8. Tie the braid together at the end to hold the strands together.

Your braided bandana bracelets are complete! You can definitely mix and match styles – add charms on the second (separate strand) version but if you want to add beads to the magic braid version you’ll need to do it on the ends – outside the braid.

The post Braided Bandana Bracelets – 2 Ways appeared first on Moms and Crafters.