Shells are easy to collect and hard to use. As I kid, I couldn’t go to the beach without collecting handfuls of shells. But the moment I tried to craft with them, I ran into an issue: they didn’t have holes!

The moment you try to drill into shells, they can chip, crack, or split right where you wanted a neat little hole.

The good news is that making holes in shells doesn’t take force. It takes the right bit, a little water, and patience. Once you know the setup, you can prep beach shells for bracelets, charms, wind chimes, and other beach-inspired projects.

Start with shells that give you room to work

I love crafting jewelry with found shells. In fact, you CAN use shells you found at the beach, and that is part of what makes this project fun. The best shells for this method have a bit more surface area, because you get more room to place the hole and more control while you work. A broader shell is easier to hold steady under the water, and that will really help you when you’re using your tool to make this.

That doesn’t mean every shell has to be large. It means the area where you plan to drill should be wide enough that the bit can stay in one spot. When the shell gives you that room, the hole comes out cleaner and the process is easier.

It also helps to think about your finished project before you drill. One hole is great for a pendant, charm, or hanging accent. Two holes can turn a shell into a bracelet connector or focal piece. In the example shown in this post, two holes were added so a double-strand could pass through the shell and start a bracelet. Yes, I will be sharing the tutorial so make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss it!

This technique works for more than jewelry, too. A clean drilled shell can become part of a wind chime, a hanging charm, or another summer project. If you want ideas for what to make after the holes are done, these DIY seashell jewelry tutorials have plenty of ways to use your drilled shells.

Use the right tool and set up at the sink

To make clean holes in shells, you’ll want to use a simple rotary tool. The brand of rotary tool is flexible – as long as it comes with a diamond tip. In this tutorial, a WORX Maker X rotary tool is used, but a Dremel or another similar rotary tool can work too.

For this project, the key part is a diamond tip. That is what helps the tool grind through the shell cleanly. You are not punching through the shell. You are slowly wearing away one tiny spot until the bit passes through.

This is one of those projects that works better at the sink than on a craft table. The shell needs to stay wet while you drill, so moving your setup to the sink makes the whole process easier. Turn the faucet down to a thin, steady trickle. You don’t need a hard stream. You want enough water to keep the shell and bit wet the whole time.

Before you start, check your tool’s manual and make sure it can be used safely near water.

Once your shell is drilled, one clean hole is enough to turn it into a simple pendant. If you want to use your beach finds that way, this guide to make a custom seashell necklace is a nice next project.

The water trick is what keeps the hole smooth

The biggest reason this method works so well is the water. Keeping the shell wet helps reduce heat and dust while you drill. It also helps the drilling stay controlled, which is why the finished hole looks clean instead of rough or chipped.

A dry shell is much less forgiving. Shell material can get brittle fast under friction, and the dust gets messy too. Under a light stream of water, the bit keeps moving through the same spot without building up as much heat. That small change makes a huge difference in the finish.

Keep the shell wet, stay in one spot, and use the lightest pressure you can. That is the whole secret.

Pressure matters just as much as water. The tool does the work, not your hand. If you push hard, the bit is more likely to skid, catch, or stress the shell. When you barely press and let the diamond tip grind slowly, you get far more control.

Patience is part of the process. You won’t see a full hole right away. First, you’ll notice a worn spot starting to form. As the bit works through the shell, that area can start to look a little translucent. That is a good sign. It means you’re thinning the shell in the right place and getting close to breaking through cleanly.

Try not to move the bit around once you’ve chosen your spot. Stay there and let the tool keep working. The more steady you are, the smoother the opening will be when it comes through. It is a slow method, but it is also the one that gives the neat result most people want for jewelry. And the total time is about a minute per hole, which is totally manageable.

How to make holes in shells, step by step

Supplies needed

• a seashell with enough surface area to drill
• a rotary tool, such as a Dremel or WORX Maker X
• a diamond-tip bit (which is likely included in your bit kit but double check)
• a sink with a light, steady stream of water

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Process

1. Pick the shell and choose the hole placement.
Start with a shell that has enough room to work with. Decide where the hole should go before you turn on the tool.

2. Move to a sink and turn on a thin stream of water.
Set the faucet so it gives you a light, steady trickle. You want the shell to stay wet the whole time, but you do not need strong water pressure.

3. Attach a diamond tip to your rotary tool.
A rotary tool like a Dremel or WORX Maker X can work for this. The important part is the diamond-tip bit, because that is what grinds through the shell material.

4. Turn on the tool and bring it under the water.
Hold the shell where the water can run over the spot you plan to drill. Then place the spinning bit against that spot with the slightest amount of pressure.

5. Stay in the same place and let the bit work slowly.
Don’t press hard, and don’t bounce around the surface. Be patient while the shell starts to wear down. As it thins, the spot may look a little translucent.

6. Keep drilling until the hole comes through cleanly.
Continue in that same spot under the water until the bit passes through. When done this way, the opening should look smooth and neat.

7. Flip the shell and repeat if you need a second hole.
For bracelet pieces or connectors, a second hole can go on the other side of the shell. Use the same slow process, under water, with the same light pressure.

8. Check the size of the finished holes.
If you’re planning to string the shell, make sure the opening is wide enough for your cord or thread. In the video example, the holes were large enough for a double-strand to pass through for bracelet making.

9. Wipe the shell and get it ready for your project.
Once both holes are drilled, the shell is ready to use. At this point you can string it, turn it into a charm, or save it for a larger beach-themed piece.

After you’re done, take a close look at the edges of the holes. They should feel smooth, not jagged. That clean finish is what makes the shell look polished once it is part of jewelry. It won’t snag fabric cords or scratch the wrist.

Smaller drilled shells also work beautifully for earrings. If that is next on your list, this tutorial on how to make earrings with seashells gives you another simple way to use your beach finds.

Your beach shells are ready to use

If cracked shells have been stopping you from making jewelry, this method fixes the problem with a few simple changes. Water, a diamond tip, and light pressure are what make the holes come out clean.

Once you’ve drilled one shell successfully, the rest feel much less intimidating. A few minutes at the sink can turn a beach keepsake into something you can wear, hang, or build into your next summer project.

The post How to Make Clean Holes in Shells for Jewelry appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you want a friendship bracelet that looks bright, neat, and a little bit magical, the candy stripe pattern is the one I always come back to. It’s the classic diagonal stripe, the one that looks great in school colors, summer brights, or soft pastels, and it’s honestly so satisfying once you see those stripes stack up.

I love this pattern because it’s so brainless and calming to make. You get into a rhythm, your hands stay busy, and the bracelet starts to look “real” pretty fast. Plus, it’s beginner-friendly, so it’s a sweet win if you’re helping a kid learn. In fact, I consider it to be one of the foundational friendship bracelets for beginners, alongside the spiral (Chinese Staircase) friendship bracelet.

In this guide, you’ll get simple options for colors, sizing tips that actually help, and clear instructions to carry you through, from your first knot to your final tie. Keep it relaxed, your first one doesn’t need to be perfect, it just needs to be yours.

Since the goal of this post is to teach you everything you need to know about making and designing the candy stripe friendship bracelet, it got a big long. So I decided to include a table of contents so that you can find your answers quicker.

What a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Is (and Why It’s So Popular)

What is the candy stripe pattern?

The Candy Stripe friendship bracelet pattern is very simple: form diagonal stripes by repeating the same knot direction across the row. You’re knotting stripes – the diagonal line forms naturally, as you knot and the level of the knots go down.

With the candy stripe friendship bracelet, you get a clean, bold look even with simple color choices. It’s really hard to get wrong. It works in 2 colors, rainbow, or ombré color schemes. It’s easier than similar bracelets, like the flip flop friendship bracelet.

Why people love it

The candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern is arguably one of the most common ones for a few reasons:

1. The pattern is easy to memorize – once you get the hang of one line, you don’t need to refer to the instructions anymore.
2. It’s easy to personalize and “theme” by choosing colors that work for a particular subject.
3. Progress is quick, satisfaction comes almost immediately as the stripes form.
4. They come together quite quickly, making them great for gifting, swapping, and summer camp or classroom projects.

Quick Pattern Snapshot (For Busy Readers)

Here’s a quick overview of the pattern that’s skimmable:

• Skill level: Beginner
• Time: About 30 to 90 minutes (depends on length and how fast you knot)
• Best string: Embroidery floss
• Common setup: 6 to 12 strands
• Core idea: Forward knot across each row to form the diagonal stripe

Material Choices for the Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

Did you know that there are different strings you can use to create friendship bracelets? Here’s a quick overview of the best ones for this candy stripe friendship bracelet.

Embroidery floss

This is my go-to for most friendship bracelets. It comes in so many colors, has a delicate look when knotted, and comes in large affordable variety pack. It’s the correct scale for a bracelet like this. The friction is good and the knots hold well.

Standard embroidery floss is definitely what I’d recommend when doing the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern with beginners.

Other string options

You don’t have to stick to embroidery floss! Whether you’re looking to upgrade, availability is an issue, or you’re just wanting a change, here are some other options:

• Pearl cotton size 8- this finer embroidery floss gives a much thinner, realer, upgraded look. It’ll be harder to work with and produce smaller results for the same effort, but is a great option for a bracelet that looks more like real jewelry.
• Crochet thread – This is also quite fine, but tends to be cheaper. Get these in big spools in more limited colors rather than big mixed package sizes.
• Nylon cord – This satin-effect cord looks playful on bracelets. It won’t hold its knot as well, so pull tight and glue the finishing knots shut.

Tools that make it easier

While all you really need for friendship bracelet making is the floss you’ll be using and any pair of scissors you have handy, these tools can make things go more smoothly:

• Good fabric-dedicated thread snippers will give you a cleaner cut (with less fraying) than ordinary scissors that are also used for paper.
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard – Bracelet makers come in two types: “secure your bracelet” knotters and “knot in your hand” knotters. I’m the second type. But if you prefer to have your bracelet secured while knotting, use a safety pin to pin it to your pants/skirt, a clipboard, tape on a desk, or a binder clip and folder.
• Measuring tape or a ruler – of course, to get accurate measurements, you’ll want measuring tools.

Optional extras

• Beads – I’ve shared more beaded friendship bracelets in the past, but if you want a little glam in this bracelet too, adding beads is a great way to do it.
• Glue – I like to glue my final knots. It just makes things more secure, protecting my hard work.
• Clasps – I love to add clasps to my friendship bracelets – it really upgrades the bracelet, and helps it last longer by making it easily removable.

Tips for designing and planning your candy stripe friendship bracelet

When you have a friendship bracelet as simple as the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern, you know that your design choices and plans will make the whole impact.

Choosing Colors That Look Good in Candy Stripe

Color choice will be your biggest deciding factor for how this looks.

Easy color formulas

Here are some basic color approaches I take when choosing colors for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

• 2-color bold stripe – this high contrast effect chooses two colors with contrast to repeat through the whole design.
• 3-color balanced stripe – a classic and playful approach to color choice with more transition between shades.
• Rainbow stripe – Choose ROYGBIV colors in any shade for a more child-friendly and playful look.
• Monochrome stripe – One of my favorite approaches with any bracelet is to use the same color family in different shades for a gorgeous ombre.
• Themed scheme – Since the bracelet is so simple, choose different colors to fit a theme. Think: yellow, white, and green for a daisy vibe, red, green, and gold for Christmas, school or team colors…

Pastels are great for Spring, brights for Sumer , deep shades for fall…

How to order your strands

When choosing the order of your strands, consider the color wheel. I find that it’s simply the harmonious choice – the way the eye is used to seeing and the brain is used to processing colors.

Sizing and Measuring (So It Fits the First Time)

You want it to fit – adding strings to a bracelet can be annoying – but you also don’t want to be wasteful. These tips for sizing and measuring your bracelet will allow you to get it right the first time.

How long to cut each strand

Since each wrist size is different, the general guideline is to start with your “wingspan” – that is, the size when you spread your arms. Take the end of the string with one hand, then, using the other, unspool it until your arms are stretched and the string is taught. Cut it there.

But there are so many variables at play! Someone who is very short but has a wide wrist may want to add a few inches. 45inches is a very safe zone for cutting, allowing space for knots and extras..

Here are some more factors that will affect.

How wide the bracelet will be

More strands equals a wider bracelet. If you’re using a lot of colors, you may want to add a few inches just to be safe. Keep in mind that you’re also using more strands, so you don’t need that much more.

The same strand count using tighter knots equals a slightly narrower look and will use less string.

Planning for ties

I do have a dedicated post on how to start and finish friendship bracelets, but keep in mind that it’ll affect the length of your starting strings too. If you’re using a knotted loop, you’ll need to choose one color to add a good 6-8 inches to.

What you need to know before making this candy stripe friendship bracelet

Let’s walk you through the details of this bracelet beyond materials.

Setting Up Your Strings for Success

How many strands to use

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is that there are no rules with how many strings you can use!

The general guidelines are:

• 6 strands for a slim bracelet
• 8 to 12 strands for a classic width (you can double strands for fewer colors

Keep in mind that your bracelet will be one knot narrower than your strand count.

If you go too wide, you may start having curling.

How to fold or not fold

So do you double strings and fold them over or do you use one of each?

The general guideline is: Fold in half for a loop start and don’t fold for a tie start. If you fold, you’ll need half the colors of your strand count, so keep that in mind when planning.

How to anchor your work

You don’t need to anchor your bracelet as you work, but if you prefer to, here are some ideas:

1. Tape it to a table
2. Clip to a clipboard
3. Pin to a pillow or jeans (great for travel)

I usually work in my hands, but I do have a clipboard with storage inside in general for friendship bracelet making.

The Only Knots You Need: the forward knot

One of the cool things about this bracelet is that you only need ONE knot – the forward knot. Here are some tips for beginners.

Forward knot basics

A knot is made of two hitches – so it’s really a “double knot” as we’d know it. In a forward knot, you’re knotting the left string around the right string twice in the same direction. The working string travels from one non-working string to the next horizontally. You work one string across each row until you reach the next, and then start again from the left.

Common knot mistakes and quick fixes

• Knots loosening – if your knots aren’t holding, it could be because the string is too slick. You can wet them and tighten again before you put your work down, but otherwise, just make sure you tighten them back before “locking them in” with the next knot.
• Stripe looks bumpy – your rows should come out smooth. If not, it’s probably that you’re using different tension to knot each one. Tension refers to how tightly you knot and is heavily affected by your energy levels and mood. Consider doing each row in a single sitting.
• Holes near the top – the first row can really be wonky. Your strings aren’t straight yet. Don’t worry about that. Do make sure to pull that first row tight, but regardless, that’s not your core bracelet, so leave it be – you’ll figure that out when you gain some more experience.

Mini practice tip

Muscle memory is your fingers literally knowing what to do because they are used to make a certain motion. It’s what I’m now using to touch type this tutorial, it’s how you make your coffee before actually having coffee (because we know that’s NOT your brain doing it).

Muscle memory can be valuable with friendship bracelet making, and a key to keeping your knots in order and your tension even.

If you want your first bracelet to come out fabulous, consider building muscle memory by practicing the knots on some scraps first.

Taking your candy stripe friendship bracelets to the next level

Ready to upgrade your bracelets? Here are some ways to do this.

Candy Stripe Pattern Explained (How the Stripes Form)

Knowing the “science” behind how the knots form patterns was the key component I used to come up with my own designs – including knotted name bracelets, this open-weave ombre chevron, and more.

The core pattern rule

One working string travels across the row, creating the stripe color. The first hitch creates the top of the stitch. The second secures the bottom. These two create a stitch on the front of the bracelet. Moving along from left to right, you’re knotting (two hitches) around each string, creating a single stitch on the front of each vertical string.

What changes row to row

After each row, the working string moves to the far right.

The next row starts again from the left with the new first string. This “resets” it again, making a stitch in the next color on each string.

How to keep your place

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is how easy it is to keep track. Keep strands flat and in order and you won’t lose your spot.

Pause at the end of each row, then gently comb strings with fingers to avoid knotting and confusing strings.

Variations and Cute Add-Ons

Ready to make this candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern your own? Here are some quick tips for doing that in a beginner-friendly way.

Stripe width changes

Repeat one color more often for thicker stripes. Meaning, you can do two blues in a row, three pinks, and one orange for a sunsetty-vibe.

Use fewer colors for a bolder look when doing this.

Texture options

Try thicker thread for a chunkier bracelet. You can even mix thick with thin threads (carefully as it’ll heavily affect the final result).

Mix matte and shiny floss for subtle contrast. You can consider a metallic blue and a flat blue to be two different colors for a classy “color on color” look.

Personal touches

Adding beads doesn’t mean you have to add beading throughout. You can add a small bead section near the center for a simple, classy look.

Choose a decorative toggle clasp to add some glam. And you can even use fabric paint for a bold finish, such as vertical color blocking.

How to Make a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

As always, here is the step-by-step process for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

Supplies Needed

• Embroidery floss (6 to 12 strands total, about 36-45 inches each color, 54 inches doubled over on the 6-strand bracelet is perfect.)
• Scissors
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Optional: bead(s), needle for bead threading, clasp set

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Instructions with Photos

1. Cut and organize your strands

Choose your colors and lay them in the exact order you want the stripes to repeat.

2. Anchor the top

Tie an overhand knot, then tape or clip it down so it won’t move, unless you feel comfortable working in your hands.

3. Separate the strings

Fan them out so they don’t overlap, keep them flat.

4. Make forward knots across the first row

Use the leftmost string as the working string. Tie a forward knot onto the next string. You’re tying left-to-right twice around the same string.

5. Finish the row and reset

Knot the rest of the row, using the working string to make a forward knot around each string. After you knot across, the working string ends on the far right.

Slide knots up gently to keep the row tight and clean (if needed).

6. Start the next row with the new leftmost string

Your new leftmost string becomes the new working string. Repeat the same forward knots across the row again. Keep your tension even so the edges stay straight and your bracelet looks neat.

7. Continue until it fits

Repeat this process, knotting the leftmost string around each string to its right. Check the length around your wrist before you finish.

Stop a little early if you plan on adding any decorative clasps or loop closures.

8. Finish the ends

You can finish so many different ways, but here are a few:

Option A: split your strings into 2 groups and make braided ties.

Option B: Just knot the ends.

Option C: Tie it off and add a ribbon crimp and clasp.

Troubleshooting (Fixes for the Most Common Problems)

Here are some quick fixes in bullet-point format in case you’re still having issues.

• Tension problems
  • Too tight (bracelet curls, strings feel stiff)
  • Too loose (gaps, uneven edges)
  • Fix: adjust tightening motion, keep knots snug but not yanked
• Edge problems
  • Wavy sides
  • Fix: keep the outer strings straight before each knot
• Twisting and curling
  • Why it happens (normal spiral effect plus tension)
    • Fix: flatten as you go, keep tension even, blocking post-crafting
• Wrong stripe order
  • Cause: strand order changed mid-project
  • Fix: stop and re-sort strands before continuing
• String issues
  • Fraying floss
  • Fix: cut a fresh end, avoid over-twisting, knot with smooth motion

FAQs

• How many strings do you need for a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Anywhere between 4-12+ works great, with 8-10 being the sweet spot.
• How long should I cut embroidery floss for a candy stripe bracelet?
  • “Wingspan” – or from fingertips-to-fingertips when arms are spread is great. Or just cut 45 inches.
• What’s the easiest way to start a candy stripe bracelet, loop start or ties?
  • The easiest way to begin is just to knot the ends together, but I do share other ways in this post. My favorite way to start is using a ribbon crimp and clasp.
• Why is my candy stripe bracelet curling or twisting?
  • It’s probably a tension issue, combined with the natural effect of repeated forward knots. Try “blocking” it but wetting it when you’re done and securing it flat.
• How do you keep the edges of a friendship bracelet straight?
  • By keeping your tension even. It IS best to complete the bracelet in one sitting as tension is affected by things like mood and energy levels, but you can also just be conscious of those affects.
• Can you make a candy stripe bracelet with yarn instead of embroidery floss?
  • Yes, but your knots won’t glide as smoothly or be as even. The result will be more childish and less sophisticated. If you need to use yarn for whatever reason, go for a finer yarn if you can, and use fewer colors.
• What knot do you use for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern?
  • The only knot you need to know is the forward knot.
• How do you change colors in a candy stripe bracelet?
  • The color change comes naturally by arranging different color strings. f
• How long does it take to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Depending on how many colors you’re using, your experience level, and other factors, it can take as quick as half an hour or as long as an hour and a half – or longer.
• What’s the difference between candy stripe and chevron bracelets?
  • Candy stripe bracelets has you knotting from left to right to form a single diagonal. Chevron has you knotting from right to left and left to right to meet in the center and form a V-shape.

Conclusion

Congrats! You’ve officially learned how to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet – and even how to adapt it and make it your own. I hope you’ve found this to be truly helpful, and even a replacement for an in-person workshop.

I recommend that you start simple: go for 2-3 colors and 6 strands, then gradually add more colors and strands. See how wide you can stretch it before deciding on your limits. Craft the basics, then add beads and other embellishments.

Bookmark this post, or print out the steps for when you’re ready to actually start knotting!

The post Foundations: Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Pattern – Step by Step Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

“Mommy, I really want a pickle necklace. A sour pickle necklace! Sour pickles are yummy. They’re not really sour. They’re yum.” is an unconventional request coming from a four-and-a-half year old, but…. challenge accepted!

My kids rarely ask me to make anything – besides for Cricut shirts, that they ask for all the time – and so if my child will present me with the ultimate challenge, how can I say no?

The cool thing about making a polymer clay pickle necklace is that it’s incredibly simple, and you don’t really need to have much experience working with clay to get it to look really good.

I did debate making this from air dry clay – but I wanted to have it done in one session (no drying time.) I will, though, share a basic air dry clay adaptation. If you’re more of an air dry clay person, check out my list of things to make with air drying clay.

One of the coolest things about this beginner polymer clay craft is that it really doesn’t require specialty equipment! It requires just polymer clay and basic hand tools for clay (which can really be improvised with things around the house of the correct shape.) Any clay tool that I recommend in the supplies list can be replaced if you really don’t want to invest in it.

Two ways to make a sour pickle necklace

My original idea was to make a cartoonish pickle necklace, with a “sour face”. And while it did come out quite cute, it’s not perfect (my technique isn’t 100% with working with tiny parts yet) and so I decided to try it again, but in simple. It also feels like not the thing I want my sweet little daughter to wear – and the simple pickle is just so much cuter.

I did include instructions for making both, though. You also have the choice of whether to add the “tail” or not. Again, I REALLY prefer the simple one.

It also lends itself to adding more realistic touches if you’d like, with finishes like chalk pastels. It can be mixed with classier jewelry for a quirky little touch without being overly tacky.

Tips for beginners making this pickle necklace

One of my things I always like to share before approaching a tutorial that I’m not an expert in is: I have a general expertise in crafting. I have done many different craft types in the past, and am at an intermediate level with most.

One of the advantages of teaching from this perspective is the ability to understand what the beginner needs to be taught, rather than what might be thought of as “understood” or a given with a teacher who’s deeper into the journey.

I do my best to do due diligence and not mis-teach anything. However, if you see a bigger expert than me teach something that contradicts my advice (especially since this is mostly about idea sharing, not technique sharing) definitely go with theirs – or at least try both!

However, as someone with a high level of experience in general crafting, there are some tips I can teach from experience here.

Mixing the right colors

I worked with a pack of clay that only had a bright green. While it might be tempting to pick up a pack of a zillion colors, you’re better off getting a high quality clay with fewer colors and mixing up your own. I used DAS Smart air dry clay, and wanted to get a much more muted clay.

This is where color theory comes into play. You can mix in black to get it darker, but it will give you a dull, muddy color. Instead, you mix in a complementary shade to majorly tone down your color. I mixed in too much red, so I pinched off a piece of that and mixed it with a fresh batch of green to get this pickle-perfect shade.

Connecting parts

One rookie mistake when crafting anything with clay is to assume that clay is adhesive and will stick to itself. In reality, you do need to use some sort of liquid clay to connect parts – and usually you’ll want to distress the connection points first. This can be challenging when working with very small pieces.

The basic pickle version of this necklace doesn’t require connecting parts, however the sour face pickle does.

The screw-eye that turns this pickle necklace into a pendant has something to hold it, but it can unscrew. I do recommend baking your clay with it inside, unscrewing it, and gluing it in place after.

Adapting this tutorial for air dry clay

If you want to stick to air dry clay for this, you definitely can! While you can definitely color your plain white air drying clay, you will get a more muted color that way. I recommend simply painting your finished project with craft acrylics!

You will definitely want to seal your project since acrylic paints can chip. You can use polymer clay sealers on air drying clay too.

You’ll also want to avoid very fine parts as air dry clay works better with thicker creations – so skip that tail!

How to make a (sour) pickle necklace

You’ll need

• Polymer clay – a deep green or green and red. I used this set from DAS
• Basic clay tools – I used this tool set from DAS
• An acrylic board
• If adding details, liquid clay
• Something to bake on (a clay-dedicated baking pan, for example)
• A screw eye
• A pendant bail
• Glue (such as Weldbond or E6000)

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Tutorial

1. If you don’t have the right color, mix it up. I added some red to bright green to get this pickle-y green.

As you mix it with your hands, you’re also conditioning it.

2. Take a small piece (about the size of a small olive). Place it on a smooth surface.

3. Use your acrylic board to roll it into a small cylinder. The benefit of using the board for this is that you avoid fingerprints. Avoiding using fingers to shape as much as possible helps to minimize prints.

4. Round off the ends (I did do this part with my hands.)

5. Use the acrylic board to roll very gently a little more on one end, tilting it slightly, to give you that slightly irregular shape.

6. Use your fingers to gently curve it and smooth any creases.

7. If you’d like to add a tail, form a little hole. Create a thin rope, dab a bit of glue into the hole, and insert the tail, using the pick tool to help you.

8. Use the ball tip tool to add texture.

9. If you’d like you can create a face. Make two tiny white balls (mine are too big!) Add them to the pickle using liquid glue. When you press it on, you’ll naturally form two tiny wells for the pupil.

10. Use the pick tool to fill those two tiny holes with two tiny black balls – of course, using liquid clay to connect it.

11. I did mess up a bit with the mouth (I should have taken it off and redone it) but it’s a rope, connected the same way. Use a smoother tool to connect that. The nose is a ball of the same color, formed as I connected it between the eyes. I pressed it in with the pick tool where the nostrils should be.

12. Screw in your eye hook. Bake according to package instructions, remove the eye hook, and glue back in.

Your polymer clay pickle necklace is complete! What will you make yours from? Comment below!

The post Sour Pickle Necklace from Polymer Clay appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

I had a very good reason to make a fresh DIY Tiara Headband this summer. I went to Sweet Suite, a toy show for content creators and influencers, and this year was their Sweet 16. That felt like a perfect excuse to go all in on sparkle.

I decided to make a crystal beaded tiara headband for myself, which I can then pass on to my daughter A. She is a full-on diva and never turns down a chance to dress up, so she was all over this project the second she saw the crystals.

Where you’ll want to wear your DIY tiara headband

This tiara isn’t just for pretend! It’s gorgeous and can be worn at an actual Sweet Sixteen party. Use it as a princess accessory for a costume or as a “birthday crown”.

This is elegant enough to craft for a flower girl to wear at a wedding. And while I wouldn’t quite put it on a bride, you can definitely adapt my tutorial to create a more mature design than the simple crown shape to make it for a bride.

Tips for making a DIY tiara headband

Wire gauge – striking the right balance

This DIY tiara headband uses wire as its structure, and to form the base. Wire comes in different sizes called gauge – the higher the gauge the thicker the wire.

I used two sizes.

• 18 gauge wire – I used this for the structure of the DIY tiara headband. It has good solid structure while still being quite pliable for beginners. It also fits nicely in the beads. Go too big and it’ll actually break the beads and be too hard to work with.
• 20 gauge wire – this still has good structure, but is a bit more pliable. I used this to wrap and add structure and strength to my tiara.

Choosing your beads

You can absolutely make a DIY tiara headband with just about any beads. I chose crystals because of their sparkle factor – and yes, there’s just something so compelling to it.

While you don’t need to stick to crystals, keep in mind hole size when choosing. While this would look fabulous with pearls, natural pearls are usually drilled much smaller. You can get special large-hole pearls for this, or use glass pearls (again, check the hole size.)

Really, this can be made with any glass bead, however, keep in mind that the gorgeous cut of the Swarovski crystal is what makes it so sparkly. I even used their AB coated ones that have an extra iridescent finish for bonus sparkle. FYI they are no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, just pick up another brand crystal.

Getting the “magic” look

One cool trick I used here was to put it on a black headband. Since both A and I have very dark hair, this makes the headband disappear and it looks like the flat crown is perched right on our heads and magically staying in place!

The look is really easy to achieve on darker hair. For lighter hair tones, try for bronze or gold toned headbands – whatever blends best with the hair color.

How to make a DIY tiara headband – step by step process

What you’ll need

• 18 and 20 gauge copper wire
• Wire nippers
• Jewelry pliers – I used a mix of chain nose pliers and nylon jaw pliers
• A metal base headband close to the wearer’s hair color
• Crystal beads – I used a mix of 8mm and 6mm Swarovski crystal round beads. Note: Swarovski is no longer available to the public, so if you don’t already have a stash, get good quality crystals.

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Tutorial

1. Choose the beads you plan to use. I stuck with soft beige, blush, and light blue (almost silvery) beads.

2. String them onto the 18 gauge wire as follows: 5 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 6 6-mm beads, 1 8-mm (peak) bead, 5 6-mm beads. Don’t cut the wire from the spool just yet.

3. Take the tip of the wire Wrap it around the headband a few times. It should be a few inches off center (you’ll be able to reposition it a bit).

4. Snip off any excess from the open end that you wrapped if needed.

5. We’re going to start shaping our crown! The first five 6-mm beads form the left side of the crown. Pull that down so that the bottom one sits against the headband, and the next form a line going up.

6. Bend your wire back a bit right above those beads.

7. Bring your 8 mm bead down. Curve the wire down around it.

8. You should now have your first point with a bead inside it. Squish it with pliers right under the 8mm bead if you need to refine the shape. Now bring three of your 6mm beads up to form a triangle.

9. Bend the wire up right below those three beads to form the valley between the spokes of the crown. The next three 6-mm beads will form the other half of that V.

10. Keep on going with the rest of the beads, allowing the 8mm beads to be the spokes of the crown, the second set of six split in half to form another V, and the last set of five forming the right side of the crown.

11. Trim your wire off the spool to a few inches from the end of the beads. Wind it around the headband a few times to secure it in place.

You now have a basic crown shape formed on your headband. You can tweak it a bit if you’d like at this point to refine it. We’re now going to stabilize the whole thing.

12. Take the 20 gauge wire and cut about a 6-inch segment. Center it on the wire below the larger spoke bead.

13. Wind it around a few times in that space below the bead (and over it a bit if you need to). Wind one side at a time. When you’re happy with it, trim it.

14. Do this for all three spokes. Position your crown where you like it on the headband and use your pliers to squash the wire wrap down in those spots to secure the crown.

15. We’re now going to form a base for our crown. String about 6 6-mm beads (depending on the final width of your crown – it should fill that space at the base.) I used 20 gauge wire here because it’s anyway sitting on the headband.

16. Hold that bit of wire up against the headband at the base of that crown. Wrap it a few times around the headband on each side, so that it sits flush on the headband. Repeat with the other side.

17. Take another piece of wire (20mm) and wrap it around the beads – between each bead – and around the headband at the ends.

18. Trim that wire. Your DIY tiara headband is complete and ready to wear!

Who will you be making this DIY tiara headband for? Comment below!

The post DIY Tiara Headband – Wire Wrapped Crystal Crown appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

The spiral friendship bracelet – often referred to as the “Chinese staircase” bracelet, is a foundational friendship bracelet that is one of the first tools to learning how to make a friendship bracelet that everyone should try!

It’s so easy and helps new crafters practice the very basic knots that will eventually be used to make insanely cool bracelets – including these name bracelets, diamond friendship bracelets, zig zag bracelets, and more!

And while all of the above are flat bracelets, this one is round. But unlike other round friendship bracelets (such as wrapped friendship bracelets and kumihimo bracelets), these spiral friendship bracelets actually use the same knots you’ll eventually be using to make elaborate flat bracelets.

Before we teach you how to craft your own, here are some tips for crafting success!

Tips for making spiral friendship bracelets

Practicing your knot

One of the cool things about making spiral friendship bracelets is that it’s a practice knot! It comes together quickly and so you don’t really need to practice making your knot in advance. If you don’t love the first bracelet, consider it a learning mistake and move onto the second.

The knot used here is a forward knot, that you simply repeat and repeat and repeat – and the spot where the string “moves down” to the next level is where your spiral is forming.

When you make a knot, tension matters. That is, how tight you pull it. Usually this can be influenced by things like mood, fatigue level, comfort or sitting position. For that reason, you’ll likely get the most naturally consistent results doing this in one sitting.

Again, it’s a quick bracelet, so you can. But you can also just keep your eyes open and make sure you’re pulling your string equally tight each time.

Choosing your colors

This bracelet, like many, is influenced heavily by which colors you choose. While for many bracelets I like to choose different shades of the same color, for spiral friendship bracelets, I typically like a little contrast.

Tip: choose your colors from a color wheel! Stick to a color scheme – such as analogous colors or complementary colors.

Another idea is just to spread out your strings and see what looks good, but focus on colors that have a similar tone. For example, all pastels, all muted colors, etc.

Crafting with it!!!

One of the coolest thing about spiral friendship bracelets is that once you master it, you don’t need to stick to bracelets! I mean, you can literally make knots around something. I’ve seen people do it around phone cords, and I have a tutorial for doing this around earring hoops in my book How to Make Jewelry Out of Anything.

You can try it around bangles, with thicker yarn around backpack handles, and even around a thin hairband!

How to make spiral friendship bracelets

You’ll need

• Embroidery floss – about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount – you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you’re adding) but don’t do less – it’ll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard – some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Knots used

The only knot you’re using here is a forward knot – that is where you knot a strand from left to right around the next one – or group of threads.

We’ll show you how to do it!

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by step instructions

1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you’re doubling colors)

2. If you’re doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

3. Choose which color you’re starting with and pull it to the left of your project.

4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left – over the top of your starting strand.

5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.

6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn’t be on top of each other. After a few knots, you’ll begin to see the spiral forming.

7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.

8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.

9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.

10. Repeat with your third color!

11. If you’re using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don’t run out.

12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!

13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.

14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.

15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.

16. Repeat on the other side and trim.

Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete!

You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands… You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

I hope you enjoyed learning how to make spiral friendship bracelets! Comment if you have any questions, or with which bracelet you want me to show you next.

How to Make a Chinese Staircase Friendship bracelet

This spiral friendship bracelet tutorial - otherwise known as the Chinese Staircase is the first bracelet I recommend that every new crafter make! It's easy, satisfying, and builds muscle memory for foundational knots

Print

Materials

• Embroidery floss - about six 20 inch strands in 3-6 colors. This is a baseline amount - you can do more (add an inch or two for each strand you're adding) but don't do less - it'll be too thin.
• Scissors
• Optional: clipboard - some people like to clip it to a surface or pin it to their pants to work with it. I work in my hands.

Tools

Instructions

1. 1. Cut your floss into six strands, about 20 inches long, or three 40-inch strands (if you're doubling colors)
2. If you're doubling your strands (using the same color twice), fold it over in the center. Make a knot about an inch from the end. You can also check out my dedicated tutorial on how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.
3. Choose which color you're starting with and pull it to the left of your project.
4. Make a forward knot: Take it and bring it in front of the bunch of the rest of the strands, around and behind, and through the loop you just formed on the left - over the top of your starting strand.
5. Pull it tight, up against your first knot.
6. Take that same strand and continue this same knot around about 20 times (or however wide you want that color to be). Each round should rest just below the previous, with no internal strands sticking up or showing, but they shouldn't be on top of each other. After a few knots, you'll begin to see the spiral forming.
7. Now, let your working thread join the bundle. Take the next color you want to use and pull out a thread of that color from the bundle.
8. Turn your bracelet a bit so that string is on the left of the bundle of strings, and go ahead and make the same forward knot using that next color.
9. Keep on going for the same amount of knots as you did the first color.
10. Repeat with your third color!
11. If you're using three colors, make sure round two uses the longer strings so you don't run out.
12. Keep going until your bracelet is long enough and then knot the ends together!
13. A simple and fun way to finish this would be the braid method, and it works best if you have a loop at the top (folded over strands/3 color bracelet). Split your end strings in half, with one of each color on each side.
14. Take one side and make a simple 3-strand braid.
15. Carefully knot the end to secure it.
16. Repeat on the other side and trim. Your spiral friendship bracelets are complete! You can switch this up with longer runs of each color, more colors, more strands... You can even do uneven blocks of color, just make sure you have enough string for that!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Spiral Friendship Bracelets – the first bracelet you should make! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This buffalo plaid bracelet pattern is not your childhood friendship bracelet! It’s sophisticated, modern, and oh, so cool – the perfect fall or winter jewelry accessory!

The idea popped into my head the other day: I MUST figure out how to make a buffalo plaid friendship bracelet! And so started a month long process.

First, despite my huge stash of strings, I simply did not have the correct colors.

Then, the original process didn’t quite cut it. And then finally, I LOST one of the bracelets I had worked on for a long time!!

I’m really excited to finally sharing with you this buffalo plaid friendship bracelet pattern.

This bracelet uses an alpha pattern with a running string that is used in every single knot and runs from left to right and then to left again.

It’s not an easy bracelet really, since you’re working with long strings and constantly switching off, however the concept is very simple with a basic set of rules that’s easy to remember.

One of my favorite features of this buffalo plaid bracelet is that it looks fabulous on both sides!! The back takes on a basket-weave look and is quite beautiful as well.

The textile look of this bracelet is so much more sophisticated than your typical friendship bracelet and makes it a fabulous fall or winter accessory.

I tried making it in three color schemes that are relatively neutral: tans, muted reds, and olive greens. You can also make it in very seasonal colors: bright red or green, pink, blue.

As long as you choose the correct color combo, it’ll look fab – and I offer tips on that below, so you’ll get it right!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

While I do outline step by step instructions below, I want to summarize the process for those of you who might be more skilled. I also share some of the crafting tips and decision making process that makes a big difference to the final bracelet here, so definitely skim it, even if you’re not a pro!

Choosing your colors

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

Just like when I created a 3d zig zag friendship bracelet and a 3D diamond friendship bracelet pattern, the color creates the effect. This might not be 3D but choosing the right colors is what makes it look like a Buffalo plaid bracelet.

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

If you look at classic Buffalo plaid, it often has a very bright “light”. That’s okay, as long as you can get a good medium for it. I purchased my strings individually in-store (at Michaels) from open-stock embroidery floss for this bracelet. This way, I could lay it out and choose.

DMC Colors I used (dark to light):

• Green bracelet: 500, 501, 504
• Red bracelet: 3371, 3830, 3779
• Brown bracelet: 3021, 3790, 3033

The Basic Rules to Making a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

To make a buffalo plaid bracelet, you do NOT need to sit with an actual pattern in front of you. Remember to follow these basic rules:

• You’re creating 4×4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot – either it’s being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium – it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you’re up to – a light row or a dark row.

And that pretty much sums up the rules of making a buffalo plaid bracelet! See? No pattern needed! But I’ll give you one anyway.

Buffalo Plaid Bracelet Pattern Summary (for pros)

This is for those of you who just want the process in brief, without step-by-step photos. There is a printable version at the end of this post.

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Starting and finishing your bracelet

When it comes to classier friendship bracelets like this one, I like to give it that kind of respect. Therefore, I used the ribbon crimp method to finish this off.

This not only gives it a polished “real jewelry” touch, but it also allows it to be taken on and off more easily. It also makes it fabulous to stack with real jewelry. Simply make sure to get the correct size crimp. This will depend in part on the size of your string and the tension of your knots. I purchased this package which has a few sizes that are close enough that you have what to choose from.

There are more traditional ways to finish this off – you can read how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

Step by Step Tutorial for a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Supplies needed

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Thread snips
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Clasp and jump rings

Starting your bracelet

1. Cut your string as follows: Light: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Dark: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Medium: 13 feet. It can be hard to work with a very long string, so you may want to wrap it around a scrap of cardboard with wider ends, to make a mini skein.

2. Arrange your strings as follows: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Tape them down with a bit of tape. I found it best to start this bracelet flat and NOT with a knot. It’s just clearer. To do this, I started it taped in order (closer than pictured) to a surface. after one round, I was able to remove it from the surface. You can also simply lay it on a flat piece of tape in order, and place another piece of tape on top, if you prefer not to work attached to a surface.

Knotting your bracelet

To make this, you NEED to know how to make forward and backward knots. It’s not really a total beginner bracelet (although it’s not very complex.) If you don’t yet, first learn how to make a friendship bracelet and then come back to this tutorial.

Rule: you’re always moving your ONE medium colored string along to the next knot.

Row 1:

Work this row from left to right, moving your medium string along to the next position with each knot.

1. Start with your left (medium) string. Forward knot it around the string to its right (light) and pull tight.

2. Forward knot the same (medium) string around the next light to the right.

3. Backwards knot the next string to the right of your medium (dark) around the medium. The next string to the right will again be a dark. Backward knot it around your medium.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the next four strings. Forward knot your medium around the light to its right. You’ll have another light to its right so forward knot medium around it. The next string is a dark so backward knot the dark around the medium and repeat with the next dark.

Row 2:

Row two needs to look exactly like row one, only you’re working from right to left since your medium string is at the right.

5. Forward knot the dark to the left of your medium around your medium. This IS the string you just worked with.

6. Forward knot the next dark around medium.

7. Backward knot medium around the right to the left of it. Repeat with the next light that’s now to the left of it.

8. Repeat: Forward knot dark around medium, forward knot dark around medium, backward knot medium around dark, and backward knot medium around dark until you’re back at your starting point and your original string order.

Rows 3 & 4:

Row 3 works left to right, moving the medium along as you did before and row 4 mimics row 3, working from right to left.

9. Backward knot light around medium. Repeat with the next light to the right: backward knot around medium.

10. Forward knot medium around dark. Forward knot medium again around the next dark.

11. Repeat: Backward knot light around medium, and the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then around the next dark.

12. Repeat row 3 working from right to left. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium.

Repeat this process until your bracelet is almost long enough to wear! Leave an inch for the clasp and crimps.

Finishing it off

13. Carefully remove the starting tape and hold your strings so that they form a row no wider than the width of your bracelet. Place a thin line of hot glue where the strings end. Repeat on the finishing point of your bracelet. When the hot glue is totally dry, flip it over and repeat on the back .

14. When your hot glue is dry on both sides, attach a ribbon crimp to each end. Attach a clasp and connector to your ribbon crimp – or read this tutorial for how to add a clasp to a friendship bracelet. Your buffalo plaid bracelet is complete!

I hope you love your gorgeous buffalo plaid friendship bracelet and wear it all year long! Which color combination will YOU try? Comment below!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to make a gorgeous, sophisticated buffalo plaid firnedship bracelet - or micro macrame! This stunning winter accessory is simple to DIY and fun for teens through adults.

Print

Materials

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Clasp and connector - I used jump rings

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Thread snips

Instructions

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Notes

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

This bracelet follows basic rules:

• You're creating 4x4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot - either it's being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium - it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you're up to - a light row or a dark row.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet Pattern appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Clay heishi beads have taken over the beaded friendship bracelet craze – and it’s legit. They are inexpensive, lightweight, and still look so classy! Their matte finish and often muted colors make for gorgeous, affordable, wearable, and easy jewelry.

But what about necklaces?

I decided to share with you three unique clay bead necklace ideas using heishi beads. These are the same beads that I used in my beaded wristlet keychain tutorial – so go ahead and make that too!

First of all, what exactly are heishi beads, and do you need them to make these clay bead necklace ideas?

Heishi refers to the flat, smooth disc beads that come in many different materials – but are very often made from clay. You can get them in gemstones and they’ll have more weight.

All of these ideas can be done with heishi beads of any material. In fact, I even mixed it up with metal on two of the styles!

However, only the bar necklace and the linked one can easily be done with clay beads of any sort. For the pendant style, you’ll need a larger jumpring (and the one I used was already quite large.

3 Clay Bead Necklace Ideas

When trying to figure out which necklaces are best to make with clay heishi beads, I start by thinking in terms of my typical necklace styles. But heishi beads are very different, and clay beads in particular are as well.

Heishi beads have a much narrower visible space than your typical bead.

Clay beads are also very lightweight and don’t settle or hang much.

With that in mind, I did play around a little bit and created three styles of clay bead necklace ideas that worked great:

A bar necklace – this sits in the center of a mostly-chain necklace, adding class to it. It sits quite nicely on the neck and looks great as a shorter or mid-length necklace.

On this one, I interspersed it with metal disc spacers as well to add a bit of glam.

Linked necklace – Here, I made small single-color links of clay beads and joined them with fancy jump rings – though you can try other links too!

You can try this one linked all the way around, or finish it off with a more comfortable chain like I did. I find that clay beads tend to get a bit scratchy on the neck, and this is a bit more comfortable.

This clay bead necklace idea can be worn shorter or longer, depending on how you like it. You can make it super long if you do clay links all around instead of the chain.

Tiny pendant – If you’re getting tired of stringing on all those tiny clay beads, but maybe want to match up a set, you can make these tiny pendants.

Since they’re so small, I recommend them on shorter or medium chains – but not chokers. You can definitely also turn these into earrings. The charm in the center is optional – but it adds a lot of, you know, charm.

How to make clay bead necklaces

Of course, I’m sharing very specifically how I did these, however, switch them up as needed to add your own style or improve on it as you’d like.

You’ll need

• Jewelry pliers: round nose, chain nose, flush cutters. I used bail making pliers, but regular round nose pliers will do.
• 20-gauge beading wire
• Clay heishi beads
• Metal heishi beads (disc spacers)
• Fancy jumprings – look for thick, large, sturdy ones (link and pendant style only)
• Regular jumprings
• Chain by the yard – paperclip/long link chain is so pretty!
• Spring ring clasp
• Pendant bail (pendant only)
• Optional charm (pendant only)

Clay bead necklace idea 1 – bar necklace

1. Cut a piece of wire a few inches long. It should be at least an inch longer than you want your beaded portion to be, but be generous – you can trim, you can’t add.

Make a small loop at the end.

2. String on your clay beads.

I did blocks of a few at a time in different colors and placed metal spacers in between.

3. When you’re satisfied, trim off the excess besides for about 8-10 mm, and form a loop at the end. Slightly curve your bar.

4. Figure out the total desired length of your necklace. Subtract an inch for the clasp. Subtract the width of your beaded bar. Cut two equal pieces of chain to make up your final size.

5. Open your loop slightly, slide on the chain, and close it. Repeat on the other side.

6. Add a clasp using a jump ring. On the other side, connect a few jump rings to make the clasp easier to close (and adjustable in length).

Clay bead necklace idea 2 – links

1. Make a loop at the end of your wire.

2. Trim it to about 2 inches. Add a few beads to make up the length you want your link to be.

3. Trim your wire, leaving about 8-10 m,m and then make another loop.

5. Create as many links as you’d like on your final necklace (depending on how much of it you want beaded vs. just chain).

6. On this one, I did the chain a bit differently. This method is best if you want to actually measure it on yourself for length. Attach a fancy jumpring to the end link of your spool of chain. Connect a clay bead link to that. Keep linking jumprings and links, alternating between the two. Finish with an open jump ring.

7. Place the entire thing around your neck to figure out how much chain to cut. Figure about an inch for the clasp and connector. Cut your chain and connect it to the last jumpring.

8. At the halfway point, split your chain.

9. Attach a clasp and connector (jumpring – or a few jumprings) to the two ends of the chain.

Clay bead necklace idea 3 – minimalist pendant

1. Open a large fancy jump ring.

2. String on some clay beads. I did three on either side of a single metal spacer. You can add more, but it should hang nicely.

3. String on a pendant bail as well. Close your jumpring.

4. I felt like it was missing something, so I hung a star charm directly from the bail as well.

Wear this one on any finished chain.

I hope you enjoyed these three simple clay bead necklace ideas! Which is your favorite? Got any questions or tips? Comment below!

The post Clay Bead Necklace Ideas – 3 Ways appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Let me guess: you were walking through the bead aisle in Michaels, a beautiful mistake, and you happened upon gorgeous beads that you figured you’d wear on your wrist every day.

But you want to string it up with a clasp, and you don’t want to lose it.

I’m happy to share with you how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp – in a way that is so durable, I’ve worn it through dozens of showers and it’s still holding strong!

Yes, that is possible and I’m going to share with you my best techniques and tips for how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp!

I do recommend that you read through the “intro” to this post – it’s not a nostalgic take (though I can go there if you want…) it’s really full of tips and advice, consider it the introductory paragraphs if you were taking a “course” on the matter.

Tips for How to Make a Beaded Bracelet with a Clasp

Choosing your beads

Back in that bead aisle in Michaels, your possibilities are endless. The best way to choose your beads is to figure what’ll be most comfortable. What do you want on your wrist all day?

If you’re going for round beads, choose something on the smaller end. I used 8mm gemstone beads and they are a great size for weak-hand wearing. They are a bit bulky for wearing on my writing hand.

They are a gorgeous matte finish gemstone in a color palette that operates as a neutral, and has just the right amount of color. And if you follow me on social media, or on YouTube, you’ll see it presenting in many of my videos.

If you do want to go larger, choose a flat bead. Faceted beads can be used as well, but they’re not my favorite for bracelets.

Types of strings and string ends

Your stringing materials make a huge difference, and if you’ll be making a lot of these to sell, I recommend experimenting with a few types of strings and finishes when learning how to make a beaded bracelet with clasp.

My favorite stringing material that I find absolutely strongest, especially when attaching a clasp is tigertail wire. It’s made of metal wires, that are twisted together in fiber-style, making it flexible like a string but strong as a wire.

There are so many different ways you can finish off the ends. I’ve played with a lot of styles. I do love using crimp beads and crimp covers, however, they do often come off.

For these, I chose instead to use crimp cord ends. I glued the wire in for added durability, and then also crimped it very well.

You can play with different methods and do what works best for you. I made these in sterling silver so that they can last me a while.

When making mostly beaded bracelets, it’s worth using better metal like sterling. It uses minimal metal – so it’s not crazy expensive – but it makes it much more durable. And if you’re selling it, your profit margin for your labor can be higher, since you can mark it up more.

Choosing your clasp

The cool thing about bracelets is that you can really make a statement with your clasp! On this one, I chose a sterling silver toggle clasp. Since the clasp tends to move around your wrist, it helps if it’s pretty!

The biggest disadvantage of the toggle is that it can open. Make sure to look for a toggle clasp that doesn’t have too narrow a bar. You should need to pull it all the way through and then let it loose to close it.

How to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp – step by step

While there are so many techniques for how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp- and I’ve shared my tips above, this tutorial will focus specifically on how I did it.

Feel free to switch out supplies and techniques as it suits your needs.

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Supplies

• 8mm gemstone beads – smooth round (about 5 inches strung). Mine are Fancy Jasper
• 3mm sterling silver spacer beads
• Tigertail beading wire
• Weld Bond glue
• Sterling silver end crimps – narrow ones with loops
• Sterling silver toggle clasp
• Chain nose pliers and wire cutters
• Sterling silver wire (18-20 gauge, 18 preferred. Pricey but you’re only using a teensy bit for each bracelet)
• Wire looping pliers
• A surface to work on that’ll stop your beads from rolling (a beading mat works, I pulled out a ceramic tile and flipped it upside down because I couldn’t find mine!)

Process

1. Stick the end of your wire into the bottle of glue so that the tip (about the length of your cord end) is covered.

2. Place the crimp end over the glue.

3. Squeeze it shut as tight as you can using the chain nose pliers.

4. Start beading! I let the gorgeous beads speak for themselves and interspersed them with the spacers.

5. A standard sized adult bracelet is about seven inches long. Keep in mind the size of the end crimps and clasp combined and bead as much as you need to.

6. Spread some glue in the area right past the last bead on the wire. Just a thin coating works, and it should be about the length of the crimp end.

7. Grip the wire in that spot tightly using the thinnest part of the pliers that’ll still hold it securely. Use the wire cutters to trim your wire.

8. Holding it carefully so that the wire doesn’t slide out, slide on your crimp end. I found that holding my bracelet by the beads, pushing back on the beads, and holding it on a table surface worked best.

9. Crimp it well.

10. Because I don’t solder, and I want my bracelet to be really secure, I like to make split rings using sterling wire, instead of jumprings. To do this, simply wrap your wire from the very tip around your wire looping pliers 2-3 times.

11. Snip it off.

12. Attach the split ring to one side of yoru bracelet. You may want to open it slightly with your pliers.

13. Attach your clasp to the other end.

14. Squish the split ring shut using your pliers.

15. Repeat with the other half of the clasp.

You’ve successfully learned how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp. Which types of clasp is your favorite to use for this? Comment below!

DIY Beaded Bracelet with a Clasp

Print

Materials

• 8mm gemstone beads - smooth round (about 5 inches strung). Mine are Fancy Jasper
• 3mm sterling silver spacer beads
• Tigertail beading wire
• Weld Bond glue
• Sterling silver end crimps - narrow ones with loops
• Sterling silver toggle clasp
• Chain nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Sterling silver wire (18-20 gauge, 18 preferred)
• Wire looping pliers
• A surface to work on that'll stop your beads from rolling (a beading mat works, I pulled out a ceramic tile and flipped it upside down because I couldn't find mine!)

Instructions

1. Stick the end of your wire into the bottle of glue so that the tip (about the length of your cord end) is covered.

2. Place the crimp end over the glue.

3. Squeeze it shut as tight as you can using the chain nose pliers.

4. Start beading! I let the gorgeous beads speak for themselves and interspersed them with the spacers.

5. A standard sized adult bracelet is about seven inches long. Keep in mind the size of the end crimps and clasp combined and bead as much as you need to.

6. Spread some glue in the area right past the last bead on the wire. Just a thin coating works, and it should be about the length of the crimp end.

7. Grip the wire in that spot tightly using the thinnest part of the pliers that'll still hold it securely. Use the wire cutters to trim your wire.

8. Holding it carefully so that the wire doesn't slide out, slide on your crimp end. I found that holding my bracelet by the beads, pushing back on the beads, and holding it on a table surface worked best.

9. Crimp it well.

10. Because I don't solder, and I want my bracelet to be really secure, I like to make split rings using sterling wire, instead of jumprings. To do this, simply wrap your wire from the very tip around your wire looping pliers 2-3 times.

11. Snip it off.

12. Attach the split ring to one side of yoru bracelet. You may want to open it slightly with your pliers.

13. Attach your clasp to the other end.

14. Squish the split ring shut using your pliers.

15. Repeat with the other half of the clasp.

You've successfully learned how to make a beaded bracelet with a clasp. Which types of clasp is your favorite to use for this? Comment below!

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to make a beaded bracelet with clasp appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking into getting a laser engraver, you’ll find my thorough review of the LaserPecker LP5 laser engraver helpful! When you’re done, go ahead and try these fun wood and acrylic laser earrings. This post contains affiliate links.

Getting your first (or second, or third) laser engraver can be intimidating. When LaserPecker reached out to me to review their LP5 laser engraver, I decided that it’s a great way to help you approach this purchase with a bit more clarity.

They did send me a sample to review. Because I do not currently need another one with these specs, and so you can rest assured that my review is completely honest. In fact, when they reached out, I agreed to review it on the condition of complete and total transparency and honesty, and they agreed.

Below I’ll be sharing everything you need to know about the LaserPecker LP5 before purchasing, so that you can make an educated decision to purchase or not to.

I’m reviewing it from the perspective of someone who has some experience with laser engravers but wouldn’t be classified as a “pro” – so I’ll be able to evaluate usability from closer to your own skill level if you’re relatively new or an emerging laserengraver.

And one final note before I begin reviewing: all links to LaserPecker in this post ARE affiliate links. If you do decide to purchase, I ask that you do so through my link. I use lots of material while testing (including those I purchase myself, and pricey items too), and spend many many hours away from other work doing so. I also disable in-post ads on long reviews like this one, so your reading experience is smoother. Purchasing through my affiliate links is the only real compensation I get for this post, helps support my kids’ education, and costs you nothing extra. It is very much appreciated!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

About the LaserPecker LP5

Technical Specs – Know what you’re purchasing

The LaserPecker LP5 is a 20 Watt Diode and 20 Watt Fiber laser engraver. Those are fabulous, effective specs for a multi-purpose laser engraver.

It is a compact laser engraver, with some cutting capability. It is a galvo laser. That means that the laser is moved around via mirrors (and not physically). This typically results in much faster speeds – and a slight angle for thick cuts that are not in the center. This is the same across all galvo lasers.

Here’s a quick list of specs:

• Dual laser sources:
  • 20 Watt (Blue) Diode Laser (≈ 450 nm): this is ideal for materials like wood, black acrylic, leather (PU or real), slate, ceramic, paper, cork, and silicone.
  • 20 Watt Fiber Laser (≈ 1064 nm) – this is for metals, such as stainless steel, aluminum, brass, titanium, silver, platinum, and engraving plastics. This also performs really well on slate.
• Maximum working speed: up to 10,000 mm/s – thanks to the Galvo laser
• Cutting depth:
  • Diode: up to 20 mm Basswood, 15 mm black acrylic
  • Fiber: up to 1 mm brass, stainless steel, aluminum, titanium sheets
• Engraving Area:
  • Basic engraving area (ellipse): 120 × 160 mm (around 4.7×6.3 inches)
  • Square engraving area: 100 × 100 mm (3.9×3.9 inches)

The cutting and engraving area is expandable with a slide extension (which I have not tested)

• Laser spot size:
  • Diode: 0.08 × 0.1 mm
  • Fiber: 0.06 × 0.06 mm
• Positioning and motion accuracy: 0.0027 mm
• Image resolution options: 1K / 2K / 4K / 8K
• Software support: LaserPecker Design Space (mobile app and PC), and LightBurn (Diode only)
• Supported file formats:
  • PC: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG, DXF, etc.
  • Mobile: G-code, JPG, PNG, BMP, SVG
• Connection methods: USB and Wi-Fi
• Supported operating systems:
  • Mobile: iOS 9.0+ (or 13.0+ per one page), Android 7.0+
  • Desktop: Windows 10+, macOS 10.15+
• Dimensions:
  • Laser Unit: 255 × 98 × 183 mm / 10.04 × 3.86 × 7.21 in
  • Electric Stand: 198 × 286 × 323 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
  • Conical Protective Cover: 167 × 231 × 160 mm / 7.80 × 11.26 × 12.72 in
• Weight:
  • Laser unit: 3.36 kg / 7.41 lb
  • Electric stand: 2.28 kg / 5.03 lb
  • Protective cover: 0.38 kg / 0.84 lb
  • Total: ~6.02 kg / 13.27 lb
• Preview Modes: Offers live preview options: Rectangle Preview, Outline Preview, and Center Point Preview
• Optional Accessories:
  • Slide Extension (expands working area)
  • Rotary Extension (engravable cylinders — 1 mm to 145 mm diameter)
  • Air Purifier
  • Safety Enclosure (with camera – reviewed below)

Unboxing – What you get

In the box, you get everything you need to get started including:

• The laser head – a separate unit that can needs to be supported in one of these ways:
  • With the cone attached, held against an object
  • On the stand
  • On the safety enclosure
• The stand base
• The stand
• A cone enclosure
• Manual
• Connection cables
• Ventilation ducts/connectors
• A starter material packet
• Safety goggles (win!)
• A toolkit in a case (win!)
• Positioning brackets with screws to use in the threaded base
• A cutting plate
• A USB drive

Feature rundown

The LaserPecker LP5 has loads of features, which I’ll outline here. This is not an exhaustive list – it’s a focus on the features I’ve been evaluating.

• Various engraving options – This is a PORTABLE laser engraver, which means you have a handheld unit that you can use anywhere. To make it doable, it has a cone attachment that connects around the laser head. Lean it on something and you can engrave. Or, use the stand, with the base for a desktop setup. You can also use it with larger items as it’s not “self-contained” – so there’s no limit on object size to engrave, just on engrave area. There’s also a full enclosure which is limited in size. I’ll review that separately below.
• Threaded base with brackets – You can easily position items for repeat engraving using the L brackets that are included.
• Up down physical buttons on the stand allow you to focus easily. Long press and it continues going, eliminating the need for repeated pressing.
• Engraving directly from USB – You will go through your device to run the engrave, but this allows for more fast and efficient engraving and reduces disconnect.
• Emboss, engrave, cut modes – You can deep emboss, engrave, score, or cut various materials.
• Easy carry handle – It features a handle on the top for easy transport and portability. Overall, the structure is one that’s easy to move around.
• Magnetic safety shield – You can remove the orange safety shield on the cone to give you access to the item you’re engraving, move it around. It is attached with strong magnets and comes on and off easily.
• Easy to remove side vent allows you easy access for cleaning and maintenance.

Software Overview

The brand software of LaserPecker is called LaserPecker Design Space. It is kind of a “known fact” that their software kind of lags behind others in user-friendliness.

You can use LightBurn with the LP5, however, only with the diode laser.

I found LaserPecker Design Space quite cumbersome to use, but also found that it had some features that were beneficial. For starters, they do have good image conversion features, especially for beginners. And while their design tools aren’t advanced, if you’re designing off-app (like me for the most part) that doesn’t matter.

What I did find most cumbersome was the whole panel where you work the settings. The workflow there isn’t very efficient, you can’t move around your artwork while framing, you have tabs that should always show but sometimes don’t… You get used to it after a number of uses.

One BIG advantage is that they do have an extensive clipart library.

In a nutshell: there is a learning curve, there aren’t good presets, but it’s definitely more than workable, can do what you need, and you WILL learn.

LaserPecker LP5 Review and Analysis of the Enclosure

What is the enclosure?

The enclosure is a full standalone unit that completely replaces the stand. You attach the laser head with the handle to the top opening, reconnect all those little cables, the exhaust, and then use it as is. It’s a self-contained unit that totally seals it off and has its own base that moves up and down.

Enclosure features

One of the biggest perks of the enclosure is that it allows your work to be fully enclosed – with no light leak. While the main unit has a cone cover, it moves up and down with the laser head, so you usually have a bit of a gap with light leakage there.

The enclosure is… fully enclosed. It has magnetic front and back doors so that you can engrave something longer – but then it’s not fully enclosed. It does have a stop feature that pauses engraving if the door is opened in middle.

The enclosure also adds a camera feature to the mix so you can preview your work area and blank from the screen.

More features/quick specs:

• Dimensions: 310 × 350 × 345mm / 12.20 × 13.78 × 13.58 in
• Weight: 8.9kg / 19.62 lb
• Automatic fill for engraving multiple items
• Optimal working area is the same – as it’s dependent on the laser output.

Enclosure vs. no enclosure

So do you want to use the enclosure or not?

The biggest advantage of the enclosure as far as I’m concerned is that it’s just so much easier to position your design using the camera. I did run into some hiccups with it and needed to calibrate it a few times before getting it right, and once again, the software for this is not intuitive. But once I had it set up, it was so much easier.

It also contains the fumes better and makes the air purification more effective, and of course offers no light leakage.

The biggest disadvantage of using it with the enclosure is that it’s just not compact that way. One of the biggest perks overall of the LP5 (which I will highlight below) is its compact size. It truly allows it to stand out in the market. You lose that with the enclosure. It turns it more into a full-sized laser engraver BUT you sill have the portability.

If you tend to use your laser engraver on your desktop but want the possibility to move it around, the enclosure is still a really cool optional feature to have.

Overall LaserPecker LP5 Review

This section of the LaserPecker LP5 review is designed simply to show you what I personally liked or didn’t like about it. When choosing a laser engraver, focus on your own needs, how much the pros meet those, and to what degree the cons don’t contradict your needs.

Pros of the LaserPecker LP5

• Compact size – is perfect for smaller spaces. Its footprint is very small and it can simply sit on a tiny corner of a desk.
• Portable – It’s not only small, it’s also lightweight and easy to transport with the carry handle. That means that for lighter use, it can even be stored up on a shelf, brought to markets…
• Enclosure – This fully enclosed zero light leak setup allows me to move around the room and do other things during longer runtimes without annoying goggles.
• Large item engraving – Since it can be placed on any surface, it can be used to engrave logos on handmade furniture, addresses on wall bricks, or anything anywhere really – as long as you can vent it and power it on. There is only an engraving size limit, no object/surface size limit.
• Individual previews – A more obscure feature that I loved that is not to be taken for granted is the fact that it shows each element as its own preview when you preview your engrave. That means that if you are engraving ten pens with different names, each one will show as a separate rectangle – not as one long rectangle. That allows me to position it for better engraving.
• Extremely accurate engraving with fine detail
• Galvo laser gives extremely high speeds – fabulous for batch processing, despite working area limits.
• Sturdy and solid – Its compact size and relatively light weight does not come at the cost of feeling cheep. It is a solid, metal piece and has weight to it – though a very manageable weight.
• Outline preview – the light preview can show a rectangle or outline. The outline mode is very stable and easy to use.
• Dual lasers open up a world of possibilities – and both have decent entry-level power. There are so many things this can engrave that it makes it a perfect machine for those who aren’t looking to set up a huge workshop with dedicated machines for each material type.

Cons of the LaserPecker LP5

• No adjustments in preview – when using the light preview feature, you can’t adjust your design. I do personally use that feature a lot but keep in mind that you CAN adjust your material.
• No curve map – I’d love to see them add software capabilities for curved surface engraving on the enclosure! It has a camera so that would be a great addition. Now, you’d need to use the rotary, which I haven’t tried personally, to do a tumbler.
• Software learning curve – As I mentioned above, the software is not very intuitive and has a steep learning curve, and some quirks.
• No good material settings library – While you’ll typically want to run your own material tests for things you plan to engrave and cut, a material settings library is a very good jumpstart. I found LaserPecker’s to be lacking and hard to understand. I recommend keeping your own spreadsheet, and finding starting points in their project library and Facebook groups.
• Slow file transfer – Unless you’re working from the USB, it sends each item individually – and is so slow. You need to combine every element on the design into one shape to enhance speed.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Material Tests and Results

When it comes to writing a laser engraver review, material tests are so helpful in indicating what you can or can’t do with your machine, and what it’ll take to get each material done, how well it performs, etc. It’s a great way to analyze whether a machine is right for you.

But it comes with a caveat: it’s endless. When working on this LaserPecker LP5 review, my goal was to get a good overview and sampling. If you want to know a specific material, feel free to drop a comment or email me and I’m happy to guide you on it!

Meanwhile, I tried my own top used materials and shared the results of some gifts I’m making too, and things I’m personalizing for my own kids.

Wood Engraving and Cutting

The LaserPecker LP5 can engrave different types of wood and can cut up to 20mm basswood.

Bamboo Pens (Diode engraving)

I love engraving these bamboo pens for gifts for everyone – counselors, teachers, family. They are also a very hot seller.

They engraved nicely and quicky, with the basic unevenness that you’ll pretty much always find in bamboo engravings. The trick is to keep the design small enough that it doesn’t curve and fade on the edges.

Wood Keychains (Diode engraving)

This is another blank that engraves beautifully. It’s easy to get a nice, deep engrave on these and they make fun swag and handouts. I engraved my husband’s logo on these.

Basswood Plywood (Diode engraving and cutting)

I tested the 3mm basswood plywood that came with the sample pack by engraving my own logo and cutting out a circle around it. The fine detail on this isn’t the greatest because my logo doesn’t scale well (note to the designer – me!) However, it engraved easily and quickly. It cut well as well – I personally prefer to do a few passes at higher speeds and get very little charring that way.

Metal Engraving, Deep Embossing and Cutting

Since I’m a jewelry designer, and the 20 watt fiber laser is a standout feature on the LP5, I focused a lot of my material tests for my LaserPecker LP5 review around metal.

It performed as expected for a 20 watt fiber. It performed best on brass. Sterling silver is a bit more complex to cut because of its high thermal conductivity.

The LP5 can cut up to 1mm of brass – which I did not test, but figuring that I embossed that deep, cutting should be a no-brainer.

Challenge Coin (Fiber Deep Embossing)

One of the coolest things you can do with a fiber laser is deep embossing… and challenge coins are quite popular. I am so not into them so I really honestly didn’t feel like trying it – but then I realized it’s a great test to see how it would perform on brass signet rings.

I should have just gotten a brass signet ring because the surface area is so much smaller, which makes the engrave time much shorter.

I ended up running it twice, once since one time it got disconnected. HOwever, it did do a great job and look forward to eventually trying a signet ring. I plan to keep designs simpler – just because that’s my style, rather than the complex designs. I ran the coin test to push it to the max.

Once I got to see this, I figure it’ll do even better on the simpler deep emboss projects I plan to run on brass.

I did polish these up with a rotary tool and a steel brush.

Aluminum Stamping Blank (Fiber Engraving)

Stamping blanks are a nice, soft metal and I wanted to see how well they engrave. I did this super quick heart and it zapped it in a second. This is a super fun, affordable customizable jewelry option.

Coated Tumblers (Fiber Engraving)

I engraved a monkey from the clipart library on my son’s tumbler, and once again, it went okay. However, I was very limited in the width of the design without the rotary, so if you plan to do these, get the rotary. I wish they had a curve mapping feature so I could do this without a rotary – I really only like to use a rotary extension for full wraps.

Coated Aluminum Sheet/Business Card (Fiber Engraving and Cutting)

These popular business cards go so fast with the galvo Fiber, however I never thought to cut them! The material sample pack came with a sheet version and it cut like a charm (no pun intended). I don’t think I’d use this for jewelry, however it can be fabulous for engraved inlaid plaques or any other inlay as it comes in many different colors. You can also do die cut aluminum business cards as a premium product, or even make clip-on bookmarks with it.

Since it’s a thin material you don’t have the slanted edge issue.

Brass (Engraving and Cutting)

Brass up to 1mm can be cut, however, I went a bit thinner to test it for brass inlays. I cut .2mm brass sheet and again, it just sliced right through it like butter.

It engraved beautifully as well, and once again, brass is a favorite material to work with.

925 Sterling Silver (Engraving and Cutting)

Sterling is more challenging with a laser engraver. I did manage to cut 24 gauge sterling. You always want to tape it down to secure it, as it’s lightweight and the fans can blow it out of place.

It engraves beautifully, and this charm was already claimed by my four year old!

Black Cast Acrylic Engraving (Fiber) and Cutting (Diode)

Acrylic is a popular material for laser crafters and while it can be cut using a diode laser, you’re really better off with a CO2 laser if you plan to dedicate yourself to different colored acrylic.

However, those are very pricey, harder to maintain, and the diode laser can cut many colors of acrylic. When it comes to a diode laser, black acrylic is really your best bet – and it can look adorable!

I made these name keychains for my son’s day camp counselors using 3mm black acrylic. It works quickly and effectively. I engraved using the fiber laser, which looks fabulous and gives a high contrast.

Cutting acrylic is tricky because of the angle, however, in small projects like this it doesn’t matter. It was centered vertically and the angling isn’t really prominent.

I engraved the thank you message in tiny on the back and it’s nice and sharp. I designed the whole thing in LaserPecker Design Space (the font is a system/self-owned font, not an app font).

Leather and Leatherette Engraving and Cutting

I’ve shared before that I’m NOT the biggest fan of working with a laser on leather just because of the fumes and the inconsistency between various leathers. However, I did test it here and it worked quite well, as expected.

Leatherette Hat Patch (Diode Engraving)

I engraved a black-to-silver adhesive hat patch with my logo. My settings were too strong and it engraved right through the coating, so yes, you’ll want to run tests and be very accurate with your focusing.

I like how the silver outline looks, though.

PU Leather (Diode Engraving and Cutting)

The sample pack came with a sheet of PU leather. I didn’t love how it engraved, but again, it’s leather dependent and you’ll want to test different PU leather types, run test grids, etc. so that you get the perfect engrave.

It cut beautifully and I was pleasantly surprised. I might rethink my whole attitude towards lasers and leather.

Genuine Leather (Engraving and Cutting)

I also engraved a piece of leather that I had at home and, well, the results are again the leather’s fault. It went beautifully through the top layer – but it’s too close in color to the surface to be visible. Colored leather or leather with a different core would look quite different. I need to try burning raw tooling leather now!

It cut nicely – I need to tweak my settings so it cuts a bit better – but again, I’m thinking that maybe I DO like laser cutting leather after all!

Slate Coaster (rock) Fiber Deep Embossing

I don’t think I am ever doing a deep emboss on slate ever again – the dust is next level – but it did a gorgeous job. Here’s where I ran into issues: I should have run it from the USB. After a few hours of embossing, it disconnected, didn’t manage t continue, and I was done. I had designed something special for it – I wanted to try for that layered water look with a resin fill – but I had to let it go so that I can get this review live, as it takes many, many hours to emboss slate of this size.

When it comes to any deep embossing, it’ll take much longer and majorly lag between layers if you don’t work from the USB. You’ll want to run these from the USB only. Trust me.

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

LaserPecker LP5 Final Review and Analysis

In a nutshell

To summarize: the LaserPecker LP5 is a dual laser engraver that’s a powerhouse for engraving loads of materials including metal, wood, slate, PU leather and genuine leather, and more.

It’s got a 20 watt fiber and 20 watt diode laser which is quite effective at engraving a variety of materials. Since it’s a galvo laser, its cuts tend to angle a bit. This matters more on larger cuts on thicker materials. For that reason, smaller cuts on thinner materials can still cut very efficiently, and cuts that matter less (that don’t need to join accurately) can still be done very effectively.

It’s a very compact laser engraver, with its small footprint, portability, and storability being one of my favorite perks.

The software has a steep learning curve but is learnable, and there’s no really good consolidated material library, so you’ll want to collect data and do full grid tests before starting your product line.

The unit with the stand has its own cover that does have some light leakage on some thicker materials, but that cover can be held up against surfaces to allow for protected engraving. The unit does come with safety goggles, a fabulous bonus.

It’s got loads of convenience and usability features and despite the steep learning curve it is a fabulous entry level, small business, on-site market, or secondary machine.

Is it right for you?

I always recommend that when making an investment purchase like the LaserPecker LP5, you start with a lists of musts and a list of “good to haves.” Once you covered those, here’s my advice:

If you’re looking for:

• a mid-market reliable laser engraver that’s
• perfect for small cuts, jewelry, and engraving or
• is portable and has a small footprint and doesn’t require a dedicated workshop and
• can cut and engrave a larger range of materials well rather than being highly specialized for a narrow range of materials

the LaserPecker LP5 is probably the right machine for you.

Feel free to drop a comment with your specific needs and I’ll let you know if I feel it’s the best fit for you – or just email me!

Get it here!

You can get the LaserPecker LP5 here and the safety enclosure here! Or, if you prefer, you can get it on Amazon!

Use code momsandcrafters at checkout for an extra 5% off your machine!

The post LaserPecker LP5 Review – 20 Watt Fiber and Diode Laser Engraver appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

While fabric bracelets have been around for the longest time, definitely since my early blogging days, they’ve recently gained steam as bandana bracelets, although you can still use fun fabric scraps to make them.

There are so many different ways to make them and I’ve even shared two fun ideas for how to make braided bandana bracelets!

Now what about tying them off? Today I’m going to show you how to tie a bandana bracelet using four different techniques.

Now, while some of these might seem similar, they each have unique advantages and use scenarios. Some were born from having cut the fabric too short – but still fit in as an ideal solution. Some are more standard.

Whatever your reasons or your choice, I hope you find this tutorial for how to tie a bandana bracelet super helpful!

Watch the YouTube video for how to tie a bandana bracelet

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

How to tie a bandana bracelet 4 ways – Written Instructions

Method 1: Basic Tie (Big or Small)

The most obvious way to tie a bandana bracelet is to simply form two bunny ears and tie the sides together twice.

You can do this by keeping it small and compact or leaving it longer for the bandana/scarf style look.

Tying it shorter will make it harder to open and close. My recommendation would be to tie it just large enough to go over the wearer’s fists so that it can be slide on and off. It works best with fabrics that have a tiny bit of stretch so that they can be made small enough that they won’t slide off.

Tying a larger knot will make it easier to open and close. It will make things like writing and typing harder but it’s a summer camp type craft that kids can still have fun with, wear outside of school, or on their weak hand. And again, it’s more removable that way.

Method 2: Bow

I did not photograph this method (oops) but I did try tying a bow on once bracelet. This is best for bracelets that have longer and thinner bandanas, like the infinity bracelet that I made.

This allows it to be removable, and you don’t have to use extra hardware or findings. It also gives it a fun scarf-like look.

Method 3: Separate Ribbon

One of my favorite ways to maintain that scarf look but keep it a bit more compact is to use a separate ribbon to tie it. I did this also because I cut some of them too short, but again, it’s a great way to tie a bandana bracelet regardless.

Supplies:

• Ribbon crimps in assorted sizes
• Pliers
• Jumprings
• Ribbon (I used lace ribbon)
• Scissors
• Your bracelet that you’re finishing.

Step by step process for tying a bandana bracelet with a separate ribbon:

1. Begin by trimming the fabric on your bracelet to just barely fit around your wrist.

2. Fold the ends of the bracelet to fit neatly into a ribbon end crimp and crimp it shut. Note: You can use wider or narrower crimps for this – choose one that will comfortably fit your fabric!

Do this on each end.

3. Attach a jump ring to each end.

4. Cut a piece of ribbon about ten inches long (test your length – you need one that’ll comfortably tie a bow). Thread it through the two jump rings.

5. Tie your bow! It’s much more comfortable to wear than the full bulk of the bandana, you can swap them out to match different outfits, and it’s relatively easy to open and close.

Method 4: Clasp Closure

The final most polished way is to use an actual clasp to tie a bandana bracelet and not a ribbon. This has the most professional finish and is a great option if you’re selling your craft.

You do lose some of the charm of the bandana tie but it will really make your bracelet much more wearable.

To finish your bracelet with a clasp, simply follow the steps for the separate ribbon above. Instead of adding a ribbon through the loops, use smaller jumprings and attach a clasp.

I hope you enjoyed learning how to tie a bandana bracelet! Which is your favorite method? Comment below!

4 Ways to Finish Off Bandana Bracelets

While fabric bracelets have been around for the longest time, definitely since my early blogging days, they've recently gained steam as bandana bracelets, although you can still use fun fabric scraps to make them.

There are so many different ways to make them and I've even shared two fun ideas for how to make braided bandana bracelets!

Now what about tying them off? Today I'm going to show you how to tie a bandana bracelet using four different techniques.

Print

Materials

• Ribbon crimps in assorted sizes
• Pliers
• Jumprings
• Ribbon (I used lace ribbon)
• Scissors
• Your bracelet that you're finishing.

Instructions

Method 1: Basic Tie (Big or Small)

You can do this by keeping it small and compact or leaving it longer for the bandana/scarf style look.

Tying it shorter will make it harder to open and close. My recommendation would be to tie it just large enough to go over the wearer's fists so that it can be slide on and off. It works best with fabrics that have a tiny bit of stretch so that they can be made small enough that they won't slide off.

Tying a larger knot will make it easier to open and close. It will make things like writing and typing harder but it's a summer camp type craft that kids can still have fun with, wear outside of school, or on their weak hand. And again, it's more removable that way.

Method 2: Bow

This is best for bracelets that have longer and thinner bandanas, like the infinity bracelet that I made.

This allows it to be removable, and you don't have to use extra hardware or findings. It also gives it a fun scarf-like look.

Method 3: Separate Ribbon

1. Begin by trimming the fabric on your bracelet to just barely fit around your wrist.

2. Fold the ends of the bracelet to fit neatly into a ribbon end crimp and crimp it shut. Note: You can use wider or narrower crimps for this - choose one that will comfortably fit your fabric!

Do this on each end.

3. Attach a jump ring to each end.

4. Cut a piece of ribbon about ten inches long (test your length - you need one that'll comfortably tie a bow). Thread it through the two jump rings.

5. Tie your bow! It's much more comfortable to wear than the full bulk of the bandana, you can swap them out to match different outfits, and it's relatively easy to open and close.

Method 4: Clasp Closure

The final most polished way is to use an actual clasp to tie a bandana bracelet and not a ribbon. This has the most professional finish and is a great option if you're selling your craft.

You do lose some of the charm of the bandana tie but it will really make your bracelet much more wearable.

To finish your bracelet with a clasp, simply follow the steps for the separate ribbon above. Instead of adding a ribbon through the loops, use smaller jumprings and attach a clasp.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to tie a bandana bracelet appeared first on Moms and Crafters.