I love a good, cheap fashion update, and with hair tie looping all the rage now, I decided to share this version of a flip-flop refashion. It looks absolutely fabulous! You can use fun colors for this or keep it somewhat serious like I did. The supplies are so simple, it takes minutes to assemble, and it is a fun and easy process. By creating these braided straps, you end up with a comfy braided sandal that is perfect for everyday wear.

What you’ll learn

• Upgrade simple, inexpensive flip-flops into stylish summer footwear using only woven hair ties and a basic braiding technique.
• No sewing or glue is required; the design is held securely in place by looping the braided ties over the strap ends and re-securing them into the sole.
• Choose flip-flops with soft rubber or plastic straps to make the assembly process easier, as rigid materials can be difficult to work with.
• Practice the looping and braiding technique on a pen or headband first to get comfortable with the motion before moving to your flip-flops.

Tips for making hair tie DIY braided flip flops

Getting the basic process straight

Making DIY braided flip flops follows the same general process as the braided hair tie headbands. Just like those headbands, you can adapt this braiding technique to suit different styles. Instead of going through all the different ways you can loop your hair ties, I focused on the main method to show you how to adapt it to flip flops. From there, you can experiment and make it your own.

Whenever you try a new craft, I always recommend starting with the easiest version first. On the flip flop version, because the natural strap twists, you have a bit of an extra challenge. It is not difficult, but it is worth practicing first on a simpler surface, such as a headband.

The cool thing is that if you do not want to make anything else, you can simply practice on a pen. The hair ties come off and can be reused, so getting the hang of the looping process on a simpler object can help your flip flop design come out fab on the first try.

Don’t want to practice? If it doesn’t come out right, you can always start from scratch by pulling off your hair ties and starting again.

These DIY braided flip flops are surprisingly durable and can last for an entire summer season of regular wear. Since the hair ties are held securely in place by the sandal strap design, they stay put well, though the fabric ties may eventually show some signs of light fraying after heavy use.

Which hair ties should you use?

The hair ties used in these DIY braided flip flops are thick and small woven ties. Hair tie quality will matter in your final result. I honestly just got super cheap ones. If quality is important for this craft, I recommend reading reviews thoroughly and choosing accordingly.

Since hair ties are fabric, they are great summer footwear, but they will stay damp longer than plain plastic if they get wet. For that reason, synthetic hair ties, such as those made from nylon are ideal.

I did buy a big stash to use in different crafts, and a couple that I bought were the wrong type, so definitely look beyond product listing photos and check the review photos if you can.

I chose muted colors so it should feel wearable for me as a 30-something year old woman. I also wanted to show how this technique really can look quite classy. You can go bright and colorful if you want something that feels more playful.

Choosing your base flip flops for the craft

The flip flop that I used is not quite a dollar store pair, it is something in between. Your goal should be to get a simple flip flop, without any decorations, that will feel comfortable to wear. You can certainly use inexpensive pairs, as they are often easier to work with.

When selecting your base, look for soft rubber or plastic straps. These are much easier to work with than stiff leather straps, which may be too rigid to accommodate the added thickness of your new design. The braided straps fit perfectly over the original plastic straps, creating a comfortable and custom look.

Part of the process is to pull the end of the strap through the foam base. The basic requirement for the flip flops that you choose is the ability to do that so you can finish off your braid and it won’t slide off. That is what secures it, no glue needed.

If the foam is too thick, this might be more challenging. My foam was quite dense, so I had to make a little cut to get the strap out. It is a fix that works, but it slightly complicates the project.

How to make DIY Braided Flip Flops Step by Step

You’ll need

• Flip flops (any that allow the strap to be removed or opened on one side, and then replaced)
• Woven fabric hair ties (thick and small ones)
• Clamp (or binder clip, clothespin, or bag clip)
• Craft knife (optional, to help with removing and replacing the flip flop strap)
• No hot glue is needed for this project!

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Process

1. Loop your hair ties on the flip flop

To loop all your hair ties on the flip flop, start by folding it in half over the flip flop strap.

Pull one side through the other. It doesn’t matter which one you pull through which, but do it the same way on each hair tie.

Pull tight. Continue adding hair ties in your chosen pattern. You can do one color for a simpler, more braided look.

Make sure that the pulled out loop of each hair tie sits at the flat side of the strap – the one that eventually faces the top of the sandal when you reach the toe. It’s important that they are all following that twist of the strap, all in the same direction.

When you reach the toe piece, just skip over it and continue on the top strap of the sandal. You don’t want to wrap around the toe piece, because then it’ll be too thick and uncomfortable to wear.

Keep adding hair ties until you reach the end, following the direction of the twist. When you reach the end, it might get a bit challenging, but keep filling it until you hit that end.

2. Connect your hair ties.

Once you’ve finished attaching each one to your flip flop, you need to link them together to form that “braid”. Start with the first one (on either side). Open it up with your fingers, so that your thumb and index finger are inside the loop.

Grab the next loop and pull it through.

Now open that loop with your thumb and index finger, and grab the next. This will become a natural movement after a couple.

Keep going until you reach the end.

3. Finishing off your braided flip flop

So what do you do with that final loop? You can seal this off seamlessly with no glue by looping it around the end of the strap!

First, we want to secure that piece so our whole braid doesn’t come undone. I used a clamp, but use whatever you have handy – a bag clip, a clothespin, a binder clip…

Push the end of your strap out of the foam sole. If your sole is very thick and stiff, you may need to use a craft knife to CAREFULLY (so you don’t make a visible slice) extend the hole a bit.

Grasp that last loop that you pulled through and remove the clamp. Pull the loop over the end of the strap.

It’ll now hold in place independently.

Push that strap right through the hole fully, ensuring that the circular stopper comes through completely to the other side.

Repeat with the second flip flop!

Your DIY braided flip flops are complete and ready to wear!

How to customize your DIY braided flip flops

The way I did it, the braid continues in the same direction around the strap. If you want to make them both facing the same way – parallel to each other, just braid each side separately towards the center OR starting from the center. You’ll need to either loop them both around the center, or loop them each around their own ends. If looping around the center, make sure not to be disruptive to the toes…

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to use glue to keep the braids from coming undone?

No, you do not need any adhesive for this project. The final loop of the braid is secured by pulling it over the end of the flip-flop strap, which holds everything firmly in place once the strap is pushed back through the sole.

Can I use something other than hair ties for this craft?

Since the tutorial requires loops, you can’t really substitute other materials for hair ties – unless you happen to have a similarly sized and shaped fabric bit to use. You can use materials like tee shirt yarn to make braided flip flops, but the process won’t be the same, so it’s a different project.

Are these flip-flops durable enough for everyday wear?

These braided sandals are surprisingly sturdy and typically last for a full summer season of regular use. While the fabric ties may eventually show minor fraying, they remain securely attached to the base of the flip-flop.

The post DIY Braided Flip Flops – Easy Summer Fashion Craft! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

It’s been quite a bit of time since I’ve shared a new origami tutorial, and so today I’m sharing a very cool and easy one for beginners: a simple origami flower, in a basic petal shape.

This might not appeal as much to origami purists, as it’s made from multiple parts glued together, but that makes it so easy to do. Master one petal and then make a few of them. It turns it into a bit of a fidget, keep the hands busy kind of craft.

Tips for Making an Origami Flower for beginners

This is quite a simple tutorial, but I figured I’d share some ideas for expanding on it, turning it into a bouquet, as well as advice for getting it right the first time.

Getting your petals right

The only thing about making an origami flower that might be challenging for true beginners is the size. We started with a 2×2 inch piece of paper, which is really small. You can practice on larger papers first, or make a bigger flower by scaling up if you’d like, but the 2×2 size makes a final size that’s close to what you’d expect of origami.

A couple of things that are critical to getting it right – especially if you’re using small papers:

• Get your creases really sharp. I sometimes use a bone folder for this, but for this one, nails were enough.
• Use thin origami paper. Bulkier paper will create, you know, bulk…

Turning it into a Bouquet

The flowers form a hole in the center, that is the perfect place to slide through a stem and turn the top into a stamen. You can see how I turned similar paper flower templates into bouquets, with even more strategies with these paper flower folding templates.

I love using chenille stems and pony beads for this type of thing, and super jumbo chenille stems can be so much fun for finishing origami flowers into a bouquet.

Making this next level

There are two ways to scale origami flowers:

• Increase or decrease your paper size
• Increase or decrease your petal count.

Increasing or decreasing the petal count will cause the flower to cone more or less. The main flower here is a 7 petal flower. You can create a flat 8 petal flower, a 7 petal and then start decreasing to make it cone up more. Stack the flowers together so that the tightest cone is on top, and the others gradually underneath.

How to Make an Origami Flower

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

You’ll Need

• Origami Paper
• Scissors
• Glue stick

Step by Step Instructions

Make a Petal

1. Cut a piece of origami paper to about a 2-2.5 inch square.

2. Hold your origami rotated 90 degrees so that it’s in a diamond position. Fold the bottom corner up to the top corner to form a triangle.

3. Fold the right corner to meet the left corner to mark the center, and unfold.

4. Fold the right side up so that the right point meets the top point, and what was the right half of the bottom side now sits along the center fold.

5. Repeat on the left side.

6. Fold down the top layer only of the left side halfway so that the top corner meets the bottom.

7. Repeat on the right.

8. Flip your origami over. Fold the right side in to meet the center, but don’t fold that back layer – let that fully come to the front. We’re forming a new diamond on the front.

9. Repeat on the left side.

10. Fold a little corner of the right side in to round it out (the taller base layer, not the top diamond).

11. Repeat on the left.

12. Unfold those last folds, and tuck/reverse that fold so that it sits on the inside of the origami. Again, do this on both sides.

Assembling your flower

13. Make seven petals by repeating steps 1-12. The flat side is the front of your petal, so after step 12, flip them over.

14. Glue your petals together by tucking the flaps into each other, connecting the petals at the center point.

15. Keep connecting your petals until all 7 are connected.

Then connect your first one to your last one. Your origami flower is complete!

If you want you can fold down the tips to make rounded petals, or leave them pointy for pointed petals.

You can really play with this – roll back the ends of the petals a bit to add some dimension, leave it as is, add stems – the possibilities are endless!

The post Origami Basic Flower – Step by Step Tutorial with Video appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Shells are easy to collect and hard to use. As I kid, I couldn’t go to the beach without collecting handfuls of shells. But the moment I tried to craft with them, I ran into an issue: they didn’t have holes!

The moment you try to drill into shells, they can chip, crack, or split right where you wanted a neat little hole.

The good news is that making holes in shells doesn’t take force. It takes the right bit, a little water, and patience. Once you know the setup, you can prep beach shells for bracelets, charms, wind chimes, and other beach-inspired projects.

Start with shells that give you room to work

I love crafting jewelry with found shells. In fact, you CAN use shells you found at the beach, and that is part of what makes this project fun. The best shells for this method have a bit more surface area, because you get more room to place the hole and more control while you work. A broader shell is easier to hold steady under the water, and that will really help you when you’re using your tool to make this.

That doesn’t mean every shell has to be large. It means the area where you plan to drill should be wide enough that the bit can stay in one spot. When the shell gives you that room, the hole comes out cleaner and the process is easier.

It also helps to think about your finished project before you drill. One hole is great for a pendant, charm, or hanging accent. Two holes can turn a shell into a bracelet connector or focal piece. In the example shown in this post, two holes were added so a double-strand could pass through the shell and start a bracelet. Yes, I will be sharing the tutorial so make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss it!

This technique works for more than jewelry, too. A clean drilled shell can become part of a wind chime, a hanging charm, or another summer project. If you want ideas for what to make after the holes are done, these DIY seashell jewelry tutorials have plenty of ways to use your drilled shells.

Use the right tool and set up at the sink

To make clean holes in shells, you’ll want to use a simple rotary tool. The brand of rotary tool is flexible – as long as it comes with a diamond tip. In this tutorial, a WORX Maker X rotary tool is used, but a Dremel or another similar rotary tool can work too.

For this project, the key part is a diamond tip. That is what helps the tool grind through the shell cleanly. You are not punching through the shell. You are slowly wearing away one tiny spot until the bit passes through.

This is one of those projects that works better at the sink than on a craft table. The shell needs to stay wet while you drill, so moving your setup to the sink makes the whole process easier. Turn the faucet down to a thin, steady trickle. You don’t need a hard stream. You want enough water to keep the shell and bit wet the whole time.

Before you start, check your tool’s manual and make sure it can be used safely near water.

Once your shell is drilled, one clean hole is enough to turn it into a simple pendant. If you want to use your beach finds that way, this guide to make a custom seashell necklace is a nice next project.

The water trick is what keeps the hole smooth

The biggest reason this method works so well is the water. Keeping the shell wet helps reduce heat and dust while you drill. It also helps the drilling stay controlled, which is why the finished hole looks clean instead of rough or chipped.

A dry shell is much less forgiving. Shell material can get brittle fast under friction, and the dust gets messy too. Under a light stream of water, the bit keeps moving through the same spot without building up as much heat. That small change makes a huge difference in the finish.

Keep the shell wet, stay in one spot, and use the lightest pressure you can. That is the whole secret.

Pressure matters just as much as water. The tool does the work, not your hand. If you push hard, the bit is more likely to skid, catch, or stress the shell. When you barely press and let the diamond tip grind slowly, you get far more control.

Patience is part of the process. You won’t see a full hole right away. First, you’ll notice a worn spot starting to form. As the bit works through the shell, that area can start to look a little translucent. That is a good sign. It means you’re thinning the shell in the right place and getting close to breaking through cleanly.

Try not to move the bit around once you’ve chosen your spot. Stay there and let the tool keep working. The more steady you are, the smoother the opening will be when it comes through. It is a slow method, but it is also the one that gives the neat result most people want for jewelry. And the total time is about a minute per hole, which is totally manageable.

How to make holes in shells, step by step

Supplies needed

• a seashell with enough surface area to drill
• a rotary tool, such as a Dremel or WORX Maker X
• a diamond-tip bit (which is likely included in your bit kit but double check)
• a sink with a light, steady stream of water

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Process

1. Pick the shell and choose the hole placement.
Start with a shell that has enough room to work with. Decide where the hole should go before you turn on the tool.

2. Move to a sink and turn on a thin stream of water.
Set the faucet so it gives you a light, steady trickle. You want the shell to stay wet the whole time, but you do not need strong water pressure.

3. Attach a diamond tip to your rotary tool.
A rotary tool like a Dremel or WORX Maker X can work for this. The important part is the diamond-tip bit, because that is what grinds through the shell material.

4. Turn on the tool and bring it under the water.
Hold the shell where the water can run over the spot you plan to drill. Then place the spinning bit against that spot with the slightest amount of pressure.

5. Stay in the same place and let the bit work slowly.
Don’t press hard, and don’t bounce around the surface. Be patient while the shell starts to wear down. As it thins, the spot may look a little translucent.

6. Keep drilling until the hole comes through cleanly.
Continue in that same spot under the water until the bit passes through. When done this way, the opening should look smooth and neat.

7. Flip the shell and repeat if you need a second hole.
For bracelet pieces or connectors, a second hole can go on the other side of the shell. Use the same slow process, under water, with the same light pressure.

8. Check the size of the finished holes.
If you’re planning to string the shell, make sure the opening is wide enough for your cord or thread. In the video example, the holes were large enough for a double-strand to pass through for bracelet making.

9. Wipe the shell and get it ready for your project.
Once both holes are drilled, the shell is ready to use. At this point you can string it, turn it into a charm, or save it for a larger beach-themed piece.

After you’re done, take a close look at the edges of the holes. They should feel smooth, not jagged. That clean finish is what makes the shell look polished once it is part of jewelry. It won’t snag fabric cords or scratch the wrist.

Smaller drilled shells also work beautifully for earrings. If that is next on your list, this tutorial on how to make earrings with seashells gives you another simple way to use your beach finds.

Your beach shells are ready to use

If cracked shells have been stopping you from making jewelry, this method fixes the problem with a few simple changes. Water, a diamond tip, and light pressure are what make the holes come out clean.

Once you’ve drilled one shell successfully, the rest feel much less intimidating. A few minutes at the sink can turn a beach keepsake into something you can wear, hang, or build into your next summer project.

The post How to Make Clean Holes in Shells for Jewelry appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

This winter, A got VERY involved with making paper snowflakes, and as the weather warmed up, she had a problem. What next? She approached me with this problem and I suggested that she learn how to make flowers using the same paper folding technique.

But when we sat down to do it, she just couldn’t get it. So I made her some templates. The running joke in our house is that she doesn’t even realize that it’s not so normal for your mom to just design you a template that minute when you can’t figure out a craft. But the good news is, other moms don’t need to, becauese I designed it for you.

Get the easy paper flower folding templates

Most of the templates that I found online using this technique were more complex – more “snowflake style”. I wanted to use the same method but with simpler petals. I figured I’d create a few styles (eight to be exact). Some of them look similar, but when you cut them they’re all different.

Crafting tips are below, but meanwhile, you can get your easy flower paper folding templates here. I decided to offer the basic shape I first designed for A for free, and the full bundle for a few bucks  in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT.

Get them all

The full bundle includes eight petal shapes. Each page has the same shape in three sizes. Two are very similar in size and one is significantly larger. This allows you to stack them or mix ‘n match.

The full bundle also includes a PDF with assembly instructions, so that you can have it handy.

This is a premium download, available in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Get the basic petal shape (free download!)

Get the most basic petal shape for free. This includes one size and is for those of you who don’t need much and just want a basic template for this craft.

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

Different ways to use these easy flower paper folding templates

I assembled my own flowers a few different ways. A liked to just cut them and do nothing with them – and that’s totally fine too! But I like to share some more practical ways to finalize it and turn it into something you can enjoy after you’ve crafted it.

Flat stemmed flowers

Some of my favorites are these “pinwheel” style flowers. To make these, I stacked two cut paper flowers using a brad pin. I then taped it (hot glue works more permanently) to a colorful dowel.

The result is a forward facing flower that is so much fun for display and doesn’t try to look too realistic.

I curled the petals on these to add some drama, and even made some extra cuts on one, showing how you can really play with the template within the provided framework.

A flower bouquet

Another favorite is this stemmed flower that can be arranged more naturally in a vase. It doesn’t try to look real, but it has that gathered vibe.

I used chenille stems to make stems and leaves, and added pony beads to the mix too. For these, I stacked 2-3 flowers, and I played around with curling the petals or leaving them flat.

Flat paper crafts

And finally, I wanted to show a scrapbooky use of the paper flowers. I went ahead and found buttons as the center, and glued them on a trimmed-down scrapbook paper background.

This is a great application for using the easy paper flower folding templates in scrapbook pages, but also as wall art/collages/shadow boxes, greeting cards, and as embellishments for any flat craft.

Tips for using easy paper flower folding templates

There are so many different ways to craft with this as it’s really just a basic template. I like to share ideas beyond what I tried, so that you can take it a few steps further – and because it’s impossible for me to physically try everything that can be done with this!

Adapting for different age groups

For younger kids, you may want to keep it simple. A, my main tester, is five. She really handled the simplest petal shapes in the largest size best.

This does make great cutting practice, as it can get pretty challenging. So go ahead and give them things that are a bit harder to try! My daughter tried it, skipped a few curves and grooves, and it still came out great!

You may need to help finish it for younger kids by separating the petals, if they don’t cut over the parts of the fold they were supposed to.

As for folding these correctly: I showed A how to do it once and she totally got the hang of it. So it’s definitely doable for most kids ages 6+ (she’s a relatively crafty 5.5 year old).

Either way, for younger kids I’d definitely focus on the larger flowers and then give smaller ones as they get more advanced. You can supply them with white glue and markers and they can decorate it and then glue the layers on each other.

For older kids, more advanced art supplies (as I’ll share in a bit), curling petals, and assembling it into stemmed flowers can be a cool finish.

The base flowers – paper, decorating, and more

To make these bright and colorful, I went ahead and printed the templates directly onto colored copy paper. I had the most fun with the post-cutting process. I pulled out automatic ink, easy to use paint markers and had fun adding doodles.

I also played with colored pencils – specifically these super soft oil-based ones which showed up really well on the medium blue paper.

You definitely want to print on regular paper (not cardstock) as it’ll make the folding and cutting process easier.

Some more ideas for decorating the base flowers include:

• Watercolor paints – since you’re using paper, you’ll want to go easy on this and allow for generous dry time. You can do this before cutting on the whole sheet, or after cutting, to make actual flower details.
• Paint sticks are a favorite for younger kids.
• Gel pens are fabulous for finer, more intricate doodles. Good quality gel pens are important as cheaper ones tend to be single-use.
• You can trace the template onto scrapbook paper or other fancy papers too! You really just need to main square template and the single petal. Just trace the square, fold it without the dashed lines, and use that single petal as a template on the final triangle.

There are so many more ways you can craft this, so if you have ideas, just drop a comment!

Playing with different materials

As you can see, I really did completely turn over my craft room pulling out a zillion different craft supplies. I experimented with layering different flower patterns. I really played.

I encourage you to do the same. Try buttons as the centers of stemmed flowers. Use large sequins as centers on flat crafts. Try crafting these with actual paper flower supplies. Pull pom poms into the mix.

There is really so much you can do here, and being creative with it will make it your own!

How to make a paper flower bouquet using easy paper flower folding templates

You’ll need

For the basic folded paper flowers

• The templates – get them  in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT, printed on (colorful) paper
• A bone folder for crisper folds (optional but recommended)
• Good scissors that have a smallish (and pointed if not working with young kids) blade

For assembling it different ways (all optional/as needed)

• Coloring supplies such as paint markers, colored pencils
• Hot glue gun (adults only) – my recommendations for best hot glue guns
• Tape/double sided tape
• Dowels
• Chenille stems/pipe cleaners
• Pony beads
• Buttons
• Brad pins

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Photo Tutorial

1. First, if you haven’t yet, print your templates. I used colorful copy paper.

2. Cut it out on the outer solid square.

3. Fold it on the full-width dashed line. A bone folder can help you get a good, sharp crease so that your end project goes smoother.

4. Fold it again on the new full-width crease (the one that went perpendicular to the previous crease.)

5. You have one final dashed line that’ll again fold it into even halves, but this time into triangles. Fold it on that line. At this point, make sure all your folds are nice and sharp.

6. Cut out your petal on the solid line. Make sure to go along your folds as needed, but to leave the center fully connected.

7. If you’ll be placing something through the center, you can snip off a tiny bit of the still-connected corner to make a center hole for later.

8. Open up your flower You’ll see that some flowers will have “grouped” petals – that’s okay. If petals that are meant to be separate are connected, just fix that now with your scissors.

9. To make a stacked flower, cut another size.

10. Decorate your flower! My favorite way is with paint markers, creating random or floral-inspired doodles.

11. Now assemble them as you’d like! If layering flowers, stagger the leaves so that the top layer(s) fill in the gaps on the bottom one.

I hope you enjoyed your easy flower paper folding templates! Got more ideas for how to craft this? Comment below! And in case you didn’t yet, get the template in my shop, on Etsy, and at TpT!

If you enjoy fun, open-ended creative crafts like this one, you’ll also want to check out these paper clothespin butterfly templates, this origami tulip tutorial, and these viral paper clothespin puppets.

The post Easy Flower Paper Folding Templates – “Snowflake” Flowers Craft for Kids! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you want a friendship bracelet that looks bright, neat, and a little bit magical, the candy stripe pattern is the one I always come back to. It’s the classic diagonal stripe, the one that looks great in school colors, summer brights, or soft pastels, and it’s honestly so satisfying once you see those stripes stack up.

I love this pattern because it’s so brainless and calming to make. You get into a rhythm, your hands stay busy, and the bracelet starts to look “real” pretty fast. Plus, it’s beginner-friendly, so it’s a sweet win if you’re helping a kid learn. In fact, I consider it to be one of the foundational friendship bracelets for beginners, alongside the spiral (Chinese Staircase) friendship bracelet.

In this guide, you’ll get simple options for colors, sizing tips that actually help, and clear instructions to carry you through, from your first knot to your final tie. Keep it relaxed, your first one doesn’t need to be perfect, it just needs to be yours.

Since the goal of this post is to teach you everything you need to know about making and designing the candy stripe friendship bracelet, it got a big long. So I decided to include a table of contents so that you can find your answers quicker.

What a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Is (and Why It’s So Popular)

What is the candy stripe pattern?

The Candy Stripe friendship bracelet pattern is very simple: form diagonal stripes by repeating the same knot direction across the row. You’re knotting stripes – the diagonal line forms naturally, as you knot and the level of the knots go down.

With the candy stripe friendship bracelet, you get a clean, bold look even with simple color choices. It’s really hard to get wrong. It works in 2 colors, rainbow, or ombré color schemes. It’s easier than similar bracelets, like the flip flop friendship bracelet.

Why people love it

The candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern is arguably one of the most common ones for a few reasons:

1. The pattern is easy to memorize – once you get the hang of one line, you don’t need to refer to the instructions anymore.
2. It’s easy to personalize and “theme” by choosing colors that work for a particular subject.
3. Progress is quick, satisfaction comes almost immediately as the stripes form.
4. They come together quite quickly, making them great for gifting, swapping, and summer camp or classroom projects.

Quick Pattern Snapshot (For Busy Readers)

Here’s a quick overview of the pattern that’s skimmable:

• Skill level: Beginner
• Time: About 30 to 90 minutes (depends on length and how fast you knot)
• Best string: Embroidery floss
• Common setup: 6 to 12 strands
• Core idea: Forward knot across each row to form the diagonal stripe

Material Choices for the Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

Did you know that there are different strings you can use to create friendship bracelets? Here’s a quick overview of the best ones for this candy stripe friendship bracelet.

Embroidery floss

This is my go-to for most friendship bracelets. It comes in so many colors, has a delicate look when knotted, and comes in large affordable variety pack. It’s the correct scale for a bracelet like this. The friction is good and the knots hold well.

Standard embroidery floss is definitely what I’d recommend when doing the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern with beginners.

Other string options

You don’t have to stick to embroidery floss! Whether you’re looking to upgrade, availability is an issue, or you’re just wanting a change, here are some other options:

• Pearl cotton size 8- this finer embroidery floss gives a much thinner, realer, upgraded look. It’ll be harder to work with and produce smaller results for the same effort, but is a great option for a bracelet that looks more like real jewelry.
• Crochet thread – This is also quite fine, but tends to be cheaper. Get these in big spools in more limited colors rather than big mixed package sizes.
• Nylon cord – This satin-effect cord looks playful on bracelets. It won’t hold its knot as well, so pull tight and glue the finishing knots shut.

Tools that make it easier

While all you really need for friendship bracelet making is the floss you’ll be using and any pair of scissors you have handy, these tools can make things go more smoothly:

• Good fabric-dedicated thread snippers will give you a cleaner cut (with less fraying) than ordinary scissors that are also used for paper.
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard – Bracelet makers come in two types: “secure your bracelet” knotters and “knot in your hand” knotters. I’m the second type. But if you prefer to have your bracelet secured while knotting, use a safety pin to pin it to your pants/skirt, a clipboard, tape on a desk, or a binder clip and folder.
• Measuring tape or a ruler – of course, to get accurate measurements, you’ll want measuring tools.

Optional extras

• Beads – I’ve shared more beaded friendship bracelets in the past, but if you want a little glam in this bracelet too, adding beads is a great way to do it.
• Glue – I like to glue my final knots. It just makes things more secure, protecting my hard work.
• Clasps – I love to add clasps to my friendship bracelets – it really upgrades the bracelet, and helps it last longer by making it easily removable.

Tips for designing and planning your candy stripe friendship bracelet

When you have a friendship bracelet as simple as the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern, you know that your design choices and plans will make the whole impact.

Choosing Colors That Look Good in Candy Stripe

Color choice will be your biggest deciding factor for how this looks.

Easy color formulas

Here are some basic color approaches I take when choosing colors for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

• 2-color bold stripe – this high contrast effect chooses two colors with contrast to repeat through the whole design.
• 3-color balanced stripe – a classic and playful approach to color choice with more transition between shades.
• Rainbow stripe – Choose ROYGBIV colors in any shade for a more child-friendly and playful look.
• Monochrome stripe – One of my favorite approaches with any bracelet is to use the same color family in different shades for a gorgeous ombre.
• Themed scheme – Since the bracelet is so simple, choose different colors to fit a theme. Think: yellow, white, and green for a daisy vibe, red, green, and gold for Christmas, school or team colors…

Pastels are great for Spring, brights for Sumer , deep shades for fall…

How to order your strands

When choosing the order of your strands, consider the color wheel. I find that it’s simply the harmonious choice – the way the eye is used to seeing and the brain is used to processing colors.

Sizing and Measuring (So It Fits the First Time)

You want it to fit – adding strings to a bracelet can be annoying – but you also don’t want to be wasteful. These tips for sizing and measuring your bracelet will allow you to get it right the first time.

How long to cut each strand

Since each wrist size is different, the general guideline is to start with your “wingspan” – that is, the size when you spread your arms. Take the end of the string with one hand, then, using the other, unspool it until your arms are stretched and the string is taught. Cut it there.

But there are so many variables at play! Someone who is very short but has a wide wrist may want to add a few inches. 45inches is a very safe zone for cutting, allowing space for knots and extras..

Here are some more factors that will affect.

How wide the bracelet will be

More strands equals a wider bracelet. If you’re using a lot of colors, you may want to add a few inches just to be safe. Keep in mind that you’re also using more strands, so you don’t need that much more.

The same strand count using tighter knots equals a slightly narrower look and will use less string.

Planning for ties

I do have a dedicated post on how to start and finish friendship bracelets, but keep in mind that it’ll affect the length of your starting strings too. If you’re using a knotted loop, you’ll need to choose one color to add a good 6-8 inches to.

What you need to know before making this candy stripe friendship bracelet

Let’s walk you through the details of this bracelet beyond materials.

Setting Up Your Strings for Success

How many strands to use

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is that there are no rules with how many strings you can use!

The general guidelines are:

• 6 strands for a slim bracelet
• 8 to 12 strands for a classic width (you can double strands for fewer colors

Keep in mind that your bracelet will be one knot narrower than your strand count.

If you go too wide, you may start having curling.

How to fold or not fold

So do you double strings and fold them over or do you use one of each?

The general guideline is: Fold in half for a loop start and don’t fold for a tie start. If you fold, you’ll need half the colors of your strand count, so keep that in mind when planning.

How to anchor your work

You don’t need to anchor your bracelet as you work, but if you prefer to, here are some ideas:

1. Tape it to a table
2. Clip to a clipboard
3. Pin to a pillow or jeans (great for travel)

I usually work in my hands, but I do have a clipboard with storage inside in general for friendship bracelet making.

The Only Knots You Need: the forward knot

One of the cool things about this bracelet is that you only need ONE knot – the forward knot. Here are some tips for beginners.

Forward knot basics

A knot is made of two hitches – so it’s really a “double knot” as we’d know it. In a forward knot, you’re knotting the left string around the right string twice in the same direction. The working string travels from one non-working string to the next horizontally. You work one string across each row until you reach the next, and then start again from the left.

Common knot mistakes and quick fixes

• Knots loosening – if your knots aren’t holding, it could be because the string is too slick. You can wet them and tighten again before you put your work down, but otherwise, just make sure you tighten them back before “locking them in” with the next knot.
• Stripe looks bumpy – your rows should come out smooth. If not, it’s probably that you’re using different tension to knot each one. Tension refers to how tightly you knot and is heavily affected by your energy levels and mood. Consider doing each row in a single sitting.
• Holes near the top – the first row can really be wonky. Your strings aren’t straight yet. Don’t worry about that. Do make sure to pull that first row tight, but regardless, that’s not your core bracelet, so leave it be – you’ll figure that out when you gain some more experience.

Mini practice tip

Muscle memory is your fingers literally knowing what to do because they are used to make a certain motion. It’s what I’m now using to touch type this tutorial, it’s how you make your coffee before actually having coffee (because we know that’s NOT your brain doing it).

Muscle memory can be valuable with friendship bracelet making, and a key to keeping your knots in order and your tension even.

If you want your first bracelet to come out fabulous, consider building muscle memory by practicing the knots on some scraps first.

Taking your candy stripe friendship bracelets to the next level

Ready to upgrade your bracelets? Here are some ways to do this.

Candy Stripe Pattern Explained (How the Stripes Form)

Knowing the “science” behind how the knots form patterns was the key component I used to come up with my own designs – including knotted name bracelets, this open-weave ombre chevron, and more.

The core pattern rule

One working string travels across the row, creating the stripe color. The first hitch creates the top of the stitch. The second secures the bottom. These two create a stitch on the front of the bracelet. Moving along from left to right, you’re knotting (two hitches) around each string, creating a single stitch on the front of each vertical string.

What changes row to row

After each row, the working string moves to the far right.

The next row starts again from the left with the new first string. This “resets” it again, making a stitch in the next color on each string.

How to keep your place

One of the cool things about the candy stripe friendship bracelet is how easy it is to keep track. Keep strands flat and in order and you won’t lose your spot.

Pause at the end of each row, then gently comb strings with fingers to avoid knotting and confusing strings.

Variations and Cute Add-Ons

Ready to make this candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern your own? Here are some quick tips for doing that in a beginner-friendly way.

Stripe width changes

Repeat one color more often for thicker stripes. Meaning, you can do two blues in a row, three pinks, and one orange for a sunsetty-vibe.

Use fewer colors for a bolder look when doing this.

Texture options

Try thicker thread for a chunkier bracelet. You can even mix thick with thin threads (carefully as it’ll heavily affect the final result).

Mix matte and shiny floss for subtle contrast. You can consider a metallic blue and a flat blue to be two different colors for a classy “color on color” look.

Personal touches

Adding beads doesn’t mean you have to add beading throughout. You can add a small bead section near the center for a simple, classy look.

Choose a decorative toggle clasp to add some glam. And you can even use fabric paint for a bold finish, such as vertical color blocking.

How to Make a Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet

As always, here is the step-by-step process for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern.

Supplies Needed

• Embroidery floss (6 to 12 strands total, about 36-45 inches each color, 54 inches doubled over on the 6-strand bracelet is perfect.)
• Scissors
• Tape, binder clip, safety pin, or clipboard
• Ruler or measuring tape
• Optional: bead(s), needle for bead threading, clasp set

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step Instructions with Photos

1. Cut and organize your strands

Choose your colors and lay them in the exact order you want the stripes to repeat.

2. Anchor the top

Tie an overhand knot, then tape or clip it down so it won’t move, unless you feel comfortable working in your hands.

3. Separate the strings

Fan them out so they don’t overlap, keep them flat.

4. Make forward knots across the first row

Use the leftmost string as the working string. Tie a forward knot onto the next string. You’re tying left-to-right twice around the same string.

5. Finish the row and reset

Knot the rest of the row, using the working string to make a forward knot around each string. After you knot across, the working string ends on the far right.

Slide knots up gently to keep the row tight and clean (if needed).

6. Start the next row with the new leftmost string

Your new leftmost string becomes the new working string. Repeat the same forward knots across the row again. Keep your tension even so the edges stay straight and your bracelet looks neat.

7. Continue until it fits

Repeat this process, knotting the leftmost string around each string to its right. Check the length around your wrist before you finish.

Stop a little early if you plan on adding any decorative clasps or loop closures.

8. Finish the ends

You can finish so many different ways, but here are a few:

Option A: split your strings into 2 groups and make braided ties.

Option B: Just knot the ends.

Option C: Tie it off and add a ribbon crimp and clasp.

Troubleshooting (Fixes for the Most Common Problems)

Here are some quick fixes in bullet-point format in case you’re still having issues.

• Tension problems
  • Too tight (bracelet curls, strings feel stiff)
  • Too loose (gaps, uneven edges)
  • Fix: adjust tightening motion, keep knots snug but not yanked
• Edge problems
  • Wavy sides
  • Fix: keep the outer strings straight before each knot
• Twisting and curling
  • Why it happens (normal spiral effect plus tension)
    • Fix: flatten as you go, keep tension even, blocking post-crafting
• Wrong stripe order
  • Cause: strand order changed mid-project
  • Fix: stop and re-sort strands before continuing
• String issues
  • Fraying floss
  • Fix: cut a fresh end, avoid over-twisting, knot with smooth motion

FAQs

• How many strings do you need for a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Anywhere between 4-12+ works great, with 8-10 being the sweet spot.
• How long should I cut embroidery floss for a candy stripe bracelet?
  • “Wingspan” – or from fingertips-to-fingertips when arms are spread is great. Or just cut 45 inches.
• What’s the easiest way to start a candy stripe bracelet, loop start or ties?
  • The easiest way to begin is just to knot the ends together, but I do share other ways in this post. My favorite way to start is using a ribbon crimp and clasp.
• Why is my candy stripe bracelet curling or twisting?
  • It’s probably a tension issue, combined with the natural effect of repeated forward knots. Try “blocking” it but wetting it when you’re done and securing it flat.
• How do you keep the edges of a friendship bracelet straight?
  • By keeping your tension even. It IS best to complete the bracelet in one sitting as tension is affected by things like mood and energy levels, but you can also just be conscious of those affects.
• Can you make a candy stripe bracelet with yarn instead of embroidery floss?
  • Yes, but your knots won’t glide as smoothly or be as even. The result will be more childish and less sophisticated. If you need to use yarn for whatever reason, go for a finer yarn if you can, and use fewer colors.
• What knot do you use for the candy stripe friendship bracelet pattern?
  • The only knot you need to know is the forward knot.
• How do you change colors in a candy stripe bracelet?
  • The color change comes naturally by arranging different color strings. f
• How long does it take to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet?
  • Depending on how many colors you’re using, your experience level, and other factors, it can take as quick as half an hour or as long as an hour and a half – or longer.
• What’s the difference between candy stripe and chevron bracelets?
  • Candy stripe bracelets has you knotting from left to right to form a single diagonal. Chevron has you knotting from right to left and left to right to meet in the center and form a V-shape.

Conclusion

Congrats! You’ve officially learned how to make a candy stripe friendship bracelet – and even how to adapt it and make it your own. I hope you’ve found this to be truly helpful, and even a replacement for an in-person workshop.

I recommend that you start simple: go for 2-3 colors and 6 strands, then gradually add more colors and strands. See how wide you can stretch it before deciding on your limits. Craft the basics, then add beads and other embellishments.

Bookmark this post, or print out the steps for when you’re ready to actually start knotting!

The post Foundations: Candy Stripe Friendship Bracelet Pattern – Step by Step Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Every time I throw a birthday party, especially one that’s craft focused, I try to provide some sort of coloring page or printable activity that’s more open-ended for early finishers. This is usually not something that’s a main craft or that requires direction. It’s something the kids can just do so that they’re not bored.

When we threw A a mock-sleepover themed party, we also made a bit of a bedtime story corner, so bookmarks were just the perfect activity for that.

For A’s 5th un-slumber party (or “sleep under”), I created some really fun bookmarks in a sleepover theme and decided to offer them here as a free download as well. You can download these right here, or scroll to the end of the post to learn more about them, and get some crafting tips.

You’ll have another opportunity to download it at the end of this post, so if you prefer craft direction first, go ahead and read along!

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

Crafting the slumber party bookmarks at a party

Since crafting at a party is not quite the same as crafting this at home with the littles, I figured I’d offer some of my best tips.

We crafted it as part of a structured party setup with preschoolers. If it’s tweens or teens, a smaller slumber party, or a more open-ended craft workshop, it’ll look different. I’ll include as many pointers as I can based on the party style below.

Preparation

Print your bookmarks on good cardstock.

For older kids, coloring pages can just be cut out. Give each kid a sheet to work with. For younger kids – and as a secondary activity – I do recommend pre-cutting them. It’s not hard, and you can use a paper trimmer to keep it neater, or just cut it by hand.

What to put out

This can be just a coloring activity or a bit more of a craft. We used colored pencils, so that the kids felt like they had something a bit more grown-up to color it with, but it’s still affordable, and neat.

You can definitely play it up a few notches by offering stick-on gems or other decorating supplies. I do recommend sticking with things that don’t need dry time – so self-adhesive decorating supplies (as opposed to glue) and fast-drying art supplies.

For older kids, go a bit more sophisticated. My favorite for the tween-and-up age group is gel pens. Quality does matter. For one-time use, you can go with a cheap set, but if you want one that you can pull out again and again, go for gelly rolls. You don’t need to get the full spectrum, but get a good color assortment.

Sending it home

Before each party, I usually prepare a goody bag with each participant’s name, with extra space for the projects. (We do have a few extras that can be labeled on the fly if needed). That way, we can collect the projects we make in their bags as we go along.

When I run craft workshops at other parties, I do the same with a Ziploc bag (or organza bag for jewelry making).

For this particular party, it was even more helpful. The crafts were a big element of the favor bags (specifically the sleep masks that they decorated) so the bags had the basic favors and the crafts were added in along the way.

Bookmarks fit nicely in lolly-sized bags, and can be sent home looking nice – not just like a coloring page – but like a “make-and-take” party favor.

Tips for finishing off and crafting the slumber party bookmarks

Want to take your slumber party bookmarks up a notch? Here are some crafting tips for finishing them off.

Of course, you can also stick to just coloring. If you’re doing this in place of basic coloring/activity pages for early finishers, you really can leave it just at that. But a few little touches can bring this pretty inexpensive craft up a notch and make it look really nice.

Tassels and other finishing touches

We pre-punched holes in our bookmarks before giving them to the kids to take home. Then, we added simple tassels to each. Just thread the loop end through, and pull the tassel end through the loop. It takes a second, doesn’t require glue and is an easy finishing touch that makes it look “real”.

Some other ideas for finishing it off:

• Use a corner punch to round off the edges (do this post laminating if you plant to laminate). This is both practical – it’ll minimize distress – and makes it look much more polished. A corner punch is one of my best craft-room investments – I use it all the time to polish up my prints.
• Let kids reinforce edges by framing them with decorative washi tape. It’s a great activity extension, especially when crafting with teens or tweens.
• For teens and tweens, turn it into more of a substantial craft by letting them craft their own tassels or beaded charms from scratch.

Should you laminate the bookmarks?

If you have a designated helper, you can definitely laminate the bookmarks before sending them home. They will look much nicer and be more durable. Don’t do this for an “early finisher” activity, but if it’s a primary take-home it’ll be a serious upgrade with minimal cost and effort.

Make sure to write names on each bookmark, laminate, and cut out to the edge of the bookmarks. Any finishing touches should be added after (tassels, gems, corner punches…)

Download the free printable slumber party bookmarks

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

I hope you enjoy your FREE printable slumber party bookmarks! Got an early-finisher party tips? Comment below!

The post Free Printable Slumber Party Bookmarks Printable – a fun party activity and craft! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When I was a kid, I used to take piles of hair ties and loop them together different ways. I made all sorts of things with it – my favorite was actually bracelets. But when I saw braided hair tie headbands all over my social media feeds, I knew it was time to revisit that!

Today I’ll be sharing FOUR fun ways to make these braided hair tie headbands. You’ll see presented in the photos and tutorial and another one in the embedded video tutorial. I just ran out of hair ties so I had to dismantle one to show you the last style!

That’s what’s so cool about theses hair tie headbands. There’s no gluing – it’s just looping. They are addictive and relaxing to make. They are inexpensive and look so cute with the different braids you can assemble. And you can even repurpose the hair ties a limited number of times (they do stretch out eventually).

Trying different methods of making braided hair tie headbands

I played with a few different methods of looping these. I wanted to show you just how much you can do with just two supplies. Yes, that is all you need. Two supplies and you have some really cool headbands with literally nothing else – not even glue!

1. The basic braid – front and top

The basic braid is the one that you may have seen the most. It requires a very basic looping method, where each hair tie is looped through the one next to it. You can make the braid portion (that’s formed by the looping hair ties) face forward or face up. We turned ours upward but I actually think it looks pretty cute facing forward, especially on hair that has more texture or volume.

2. The Cobra Braid – 2 Color

The Cobra braid looks like the classic cobra knot that I showed on these Gimp bracelets. They form the “braid” on both the front on the back, and on top you have a zipper-type look just like a Cobra knot would form. I like doing it with two colors – and specifically two shades of a single color – but you can definitely bring in more colors!

3. The Three Color Layered Braid

This method works best with three colors. You want an odd number so that you can cross over to the other side and get that criss-cross effect. And more than three will need to stretch too far.

Do it by looping each one with the next color, positioned on the opposite side of the headband.

4. The 3 Color ZigZag Braid

This one is pictured in the video only – I didn’t have enough ponies and wanted to try the style above as well so I did dismantle this one.

It’s accomplished by placing the ponies in two directions and looping each one over the next consecutive one on the other side for a zigzag braided effect. I did it with three colors but it can be done with any numer.

The best supplies to use for braided hair tie headbands

While there is some flexibility in the materials you use to make braided hair tie headbands, here are some pointers and key features for success.

Your pony holders

Your ideal pony holder is a no-crease small sized cotton pony holder that’s thick. This gives you good coverage while allowing for a tight “braid”.

While you CAN play with others (especially for the layered braid) you’ll want it to have these qualities.

The base headband

The base headband should be a rigid headband with a bit of width. While you can use metal headbands for this, you’ll need to go for a nice, wide one. My ideal headband for this is a rigid plastic one. You can also use satin covered ones.

I don’t recommend using one with teeth. It’ll be harder to move things around if you need to, and you’re anyway covering the teeth.

How to make braided hair tie headbands step by step tutorials

Supplies needed

• 32-35 hair ties per headband
• Rigid headbands

Watch the video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos. The video shows four ways, the photos show three.

Process Breakdown

Method 1: Basic Braided hair tie headband

1. Wrap your hair tie around the headband in the spot where you want your braid to start. The headband should not go through the hole – you’re folding the hair tie in half over the headband.

2. Pull one side through the loop formed at the other side.

3. Pull through till it’s tight.

4. Continue adding hair ties this way until you reach the end of where you want the braid to be. All hair ties should be in the same direction for this style.

5. Start “braiding.” Pull your second hair tie through the loop of the first.

6. Grab the third and pull it through the loop of the second.

7. Continue doing this until you pull the last one through the loop of the second to last.

8. Pull that one over the end of the headband to sit next to the rest of that pony. Your “braid” is complete.

9. I find that when I make this style, I naturally make it along the side of the headband. This can look cute – it’ll face front when worn. But you can also turn it to sit on top of the headband.

Your basic braided hair tie headband is complete!

Method 2: two-color Cobra braided headband

1. Start looping ponies onto the headband in the same way. Only this time you’re alternating between two colors and alternating directions.

2. Keep going until you’ve covered the area you want your “braid” to cover.

3. You’ll be connecting the loops the same way you did above, only this time you’ll be doing it one side/one color at a time.

Finish it off the same way too.

Your cobra-style braided hair tie headband is complete!

Method 3: The Three Color Layered Braid

1. On this one, you’re alternating directions again, but alternating between three colors.

2. Work one color at a time and loop only the same colors together, zigzagging across the headband. Keep in mind that the first color you “braid” will show the least, and the last one will show the most, so choose which colors you want to be the most and least dominant.

Your layered braided hair tie headband is complete!

I really hope you enjoyed watching how to make braided hair tie headbands using these three easy methods! It’s such a fun addictive craft – perfect for sleepover parties, birthday parties (no dry time!) and just everyday accessory making.

If you enjoyed this, you can check out this DIY tiara headband tutorial too!

The post Braided Hair Tie Headbands – 4 ways! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A’s big brothers often have sleepovers, so when we were looking for a theme for A’s fifth birthday, a “sleepover” theme was the perfect choice! This unslumber party (or “sleepunder” party) was an absolute hit and such an adorable party.

The primary activity as well as party favor was sleep mask decorating with kids – we made this easy sleep mask craft that doubled as a party favor too.

This is a hit both as a party craft but also as something for kids to make at home, at sleepaway camp, or anytime this is a fit!

The kids absolutely loved it. It was very engaging, and they spent much longer on it than anticipated. In fact, they spent so long on it that I didn’t even have time to do all the planned activities!

And they wore them for the rest of the party, and some kids even wore them to school the next day (the kids ranged from 4-5 years old).

In this post, I’ll be sharing with you how to make this sleep mask craft (which isn’t much of a tutorial – it’s self explanatory) but also my tips for decorating them with kids and setting it up as a party activity.

Tips for sleep mask decorating with kids at a party

This makes such a good party activity because:

• There’s no dry time
• It’s open-ended – kids can really be creative
• It’s special – it requires specific supplies that are more affordable in bulk and isn’t just another thing they can make at home any time
• It doubles as a part favor.

Activity Setup and Guidelines

I decided to get a stick-on varsity initial to make it special and personalized for each kid. Make sure to get enough letters for each participant (I needed two packs of initials). You can purchase letters individually.

I also got a big pack of stick-on gems. These stuck really well and did make for a semi-permanent application (kids can pull them off but they won’t come off on their own.)

When the kids arrived, they each had a plate set up with their name, a mask, and the initial on it. The gem sheets were scattered across the table. Be generous with your gems – I regret not getting two packs. They’re great for other crafts too and inexpensive, and that way kids have more choices.

I find that having an open-ended (unguided) craftivity set up for kids right when they arrive is a great way to warm them up for an at-home birthday party. It helps them jump right in when they’re stil feeling a little shy and makes them excited about what’s to come.

Since everything is effectively a sticker, the kids just jumped right in and got VERY busy. They did not need any instruction at all. They were hypnotized by the activity, dedicating themselves fully to blinging their sleep mask crafts.

Just a quick seating tip: I seated the two friends who weren’t in her class next to A and the classmates together, just to make things less intimidating for those two.

Make sure to have a sample on the table for kids to follow (the upside down w “M” one you see was my sample).

Sending them home as favors

Especially when the activity doubles as a favor like by this Dog Man party – but even when it’s just a craft-heavy party – I like to have bags prepared in advance with the kids’ names.

That way, as they complete their crafts, I can simply slip it into their bags. Most of the kids wore their masks after but I did get bags for them regardless. The masks came in bags, but most of them tore when I took the masks out so I recommend getting separate bags.

Each bag was prepared with this laser heart keychain, and two scrunchies, and had plenty of space for the sleep mask crafts and the bookmarks they created (which I’ll share at a later date).

When they finished decorating the masks, they went to the reading corner (again, I’m going to share all the details in a later post) and I collected any masks that were left behind to put in their labeled bags.

The sticker was a Canva design (the same one I used for the invitation), printed on sticker paper.

You can see that the favor bags and labels were really inexpensive. While the sleep mask craft was a bit pricier, it was balanced out by savings in other areas, AND it was both the primary entertainment and the primary favor.

More tips for making a sleep mask craft

Whether you’re crafting this at home, at camp, at a party, or for any other occasion, I figured I’d share some tips and tricks for making this.

Embellishments and ideas

The only embellishments we provided were:

• An adhesive initial per person
• Sheets of adhesive gems.

That WAS enough, but if you’d like to offer more, here are some more ideas. Some are suitable for parties, and some should only be done in a one-on-one crafting scenario.

• Adhesive shapes – many initial sets come with more chenille style stick-ons. Those can be fun too, but you’ll still only want 1-2 per person.
• Adhesive patches – again, unless doing this at home, stick with adhesive, but you can get loads of embroidered patches for a cool look.
• Glue-on gems – you can do larger glue-ons but again, you’ll need more supervision with this and it’s best for when you’re just crafting at home.
• Buttons – bigger kids can sew on fun buttons.
• Paint markers or fabric markers – kids can color and decorate their sleep masks. Just test the markers in advance of the activity.

Favorite occasions and themes to make this craft

IF you spotted this craft not for a specific occasion, but just while browsing, here are some fun times to make them, besides for an unslumber party!

• An actual sleepover party
• A sleepover with one or two friends – you can get more detailed if you have an adult handling the hot glue gun.
• A take-home activity at a larger gathering, such as a school event
• This is so cool as a get-to-know-you icebreaker at sleepover camp
• Or if you’re having an overnight for day camp
• It’s cool for pajama day at any school or camp

How to assemble this sleep mask craft

The assembly process is very basic, but you’ll enjoy seeing the kids actually putting theirs together!

Pay close attention to my guidelines for the materials to use.

You’ll need

• Sleep masks: good quality satin ones make a big difference, especially if it’s a party favor. HOWEVER, the ones I got were adult sizes and too big for preschoolers. I did run them through the sewing machine for a second to take in the elastic at the back. You can also get adjustable ones.
• Gems: get enough gems in a good mix of shapes to go around – at least 2-3 sheets per kid. You’ll have extras for another project, but you want the kids to be able to choose.
• Initials: one for each kid. Double names still got one.

Tutorial

1. Stick the initial in the center of the mask.

2. Decorate with gems.

That is all! No dry time, just stickers. The kids had a blast! I hope you enjoyed!

The post Sleep Mask Craft – Decorating with Kids appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain is one of those tiny projects that makes everyday life feel a little more hands-free. A wristlet keychain is a short leather loop that slips over your wrist, with your keys attached at the end, so your hands stay free while you juggle coffee, kids, groceries, or all three.

It also makes keys just plain easy to find. Instead of fishing around in a bottomless bag, you’ve got a loop you can grab in one second. And because it looks polished (even when it’s made from scraps), it’s a sweet, practical gift that doesn’t feel last-minute.

If you’re new to leather or faux leather, don’t stress. This is a no-sew project that uses basic tools and scrap materials. You’re basically cutting a strip, folding it, and crimping hardware in place. It’s beginner-friendly and budget-friendly, I promise.

Before you start, choose a design that fits your hand and your hardware

The best wristlet keychain is the one that feels good on your wrist. Too small, and it’ll pinch, or won’t slide on easily. Too big, and you might just lose those keys. The “sweet spot” is usually a loop that slips over your hand without effort, then sits comfortably at your wrist.

Here’s the simple way to think about sizing: Start from your bangle size. Then, add a couple of inches. If you like it roomier (or you want it to slide on fast), go a bit larger.

Your hardware choice changes the whole build, too. A classic key ring is sturdy and simple. A swivel clasp (like I used) is great if you want to clip it onto a bag strap or switch key sets. Choose this if you’re selling your final product.

Leather thickness matters more than you might think. Stiff, thick leather can feel uncomfortable. If you’re working from a scrap bag, that’s fine. Just match your plan to what your leather can comfortably do. For mine, I chose two pieces of fun, colorful, and super soft leather. For more scrap-friendly ideas, this list of leather scrap crafting inspiration is full of quick wins.

Picking the right leather (scraps are perfect)

For beginners, look for leather that folds without cracking. You’ll usually run into two types: vegetable tanned leather (often stiffer and better for stamping) and chrome-tanned (often softer and more flexible); PVC or PU leather sheets make a great flexible alternative. Either can work here, as long as it bends nicely.

A good thickness range for this project is about 2 oz to 5 oz (roughly 0.8 to 2 mm). Very thick leather can be frustrating because it may not fit into standard ribbon crimps, and it can leave bulky ends.

Quick test: fold a corner over with your fingers. If it creases neatly and doesn’t show tiny cracks, it’s probably a good candidate.

How to size your strap so it feels good on your wrist

Measure around the widest part of your hand (usually over your knuckles with your thumb tucked in), or measure the loop size you want. Add a little breathing room, about 1-2 inches, so it slides on easily.

Add another half-inch for the hardware.

Example: if you want an 10-inch finished loop, cut about 10.5 inches of leather (then you can trim a touch shorter before crimping if it feels oversized). It’s easier to shorten than to magically add length, so don’t cut too aggressively at the start.

Hardware options and what to buy if you are new

The easiest hardware for a no-sew leather wristlet keychain is a ribbon crimp (also called a ribbon clamp), though advanced makers might prefer a saddle stitch using waxed thread. The width of the crimp should match the width of your leather strip. If your strip is 1 inch wide, buy a 1-inch crimp. The thickness matters too, since some crimps are shallow. You can also get dedicated key fob hardware.

If your crimp cuts it a little narrow, you’ll be able to work with it, by try to get as close as you can.

For the key attachment, you can use key fob hardware like a split ring, a lobster clasp, or a swivel clasp. A jump ring is optional, but handy if you want a little extra movement between parts.

Two mistakes to avoid: buying a crimp that’s too small (it won’t close cleanly), and using a flimsy key ring that bends open over time.

Tools and setup tips that make the project look clean

A clean result comes from two boring things that help a lot: a steady surface and a straight cut. Set yourself up at a table with good light, and put down a cutting mat. Leather can shift while you cut, so it helps to secure it with masking or blue painters tape and take your time.

You don’t need fancy leather tools to make a wristlet that looks giftable. At a basic level, you’ll want a ruler, a sharp blade, and pliers. That’s it.

If you enjoy the process and want to upgrade later, there are some nice extras: a strap cutter for perfect strips, a mallet if you decide to stamp the leather, a hole punch (useful if you ever add rivets), and edge paint or burnishing supplies. Even a tiny bit of leather conditioner can make scraps look richer.

One safety note from someone who’s cut “just one more strip” while tired: keep your fingers out of the cut path, and use slow, controlled pressure. Leather is tough, and blades slip when you rush.

If you want to see ribbon crimps used on a leather project in a slightly different way, this magic leather braid bracelet tutorial is a great visual reference for how crimps should close.

Cutting safely and getting straight edges without special tools

Tape the leather down to your cutting mat so it can’t wiggle. Use a rigid metal ruler if you have one, since plastic rulers can get nicked by blades. For even easier straight edges, try a rotary blade if available.

Make light passes with your craft knife instead of trying to cut through in one go. Think of it like slicing a bagel, gentle pressure, repeat, and you get a cleaner edge. Keep your non-cutting hand well away from the ruler edge. You can also score it with the ruler and finish the cut with scissors, but work slowly, with very sharp scissors if you do it like this.

Easy finishing touches that upgrade the look

Round the corners with scissors if you want a softer, store-bought feel. Rub the edges briskly with a cloth to smooth fuzz, then add a tiny dab of leather conditioner and buff it in. For a pro touch, run an edge beveler along the edges before burnishing them smooth.

If you have edge paint, use it, but don’t feel like you need it. A neat cut and rounded corners already do a lot.

How to make a DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain

This is the part that feels like magic. You start with a plain strip, and a few minutes later you’ve got a wristlet keychain you’ll use every day. Go slow on the cutting, and take two seconds to check the loop size before you crimp it shut. That tiny pause saves a lot of frustration later.

Supplies Needed

• Leather scraps (I’ve found good packs of this at Michaels and Blick)
• Cutting mat
• Cricut Maker – just make a rectangle to your chosen dimensions in Cricut Design Space (optional for precise digital cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Strong grip mat (for stabilizing leather during Cricut cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Knife blade
• Masking tape
• Rigid ruler
• Craft knife or rotary cutter
• Ribbon crimp (to match the width of your wristlet keychain) or dedicated key fob crimps
• Key fob hardware (key ring or clasp)
• Pliers – you can get specialized key fob pliers with crimps or just use chain nose pliers (for secure assembly of ribbon crimps)
• Optional: jump ring (additional key fob hardware), edge finisher, heat transfer vinyl, EasyPress Mini, etc.

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step tutorial

1. Choose a ribbon crimp that matches your strap width and has enough depth for your leather thickness (test-fit the leather inside before cutting everything).

2. Tape leather scrap to cutting board (or strong grip mat if using Cricut Maker).

3. Use ruler to cut to size (1 inch by the circumference of your final strap, plus half an inch); or send an SVG file through Cricut Design Space.

4. If your knife isn’t sharp enough to go through on one run, you may want to score it and finish the job using scissors.

5. Cut the corners a bit if needed to fit the ribbon crimp. Optional: Decorate the strap with heat transfer vinyl using an EasyPress Mini, or stamp it, before assembly.

6. Connect two ends with a ribbon crimp and attach the key fob hardware.

7. Before you fully flatten the crimp, slip the loop over your wrist to check the fit, then squeeze the crimp firmly with pliers until it feels solid and doesn’t gap.

Conclusion

A DIY leather wristlet keychain is one of those quick projects that feels like a little victory. It’s fast, forgiving, and a smart way to use scraps that would otherwise sit in a drawer. You’ll end up with something that’s actually useful, which is my favorite kind of making.

Once you’ve got the basic version down, try small upgrades: add a tassel, use leather letter stamps for initials, color edges with sharpie markers, or switch hardware colors (gold, silver, black) to match your bag. For care, keep it as dry as you can, and condition lightly if it starts to look brittle.

Make a second wristlet keychain while your tools are already out; it’s the easiest way to build a gift stash. If you want another keychain-style idea, grab leather needles and a stitching pony for sewn leather goods; or if you’re not up to that, this personalized leather keychain tutorial is a fun next project to try.

The post DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain (No-Sew, Beginner-Friendly) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Thinking about trying rug tufting at home? This Clawlab review covers the tufting gun, the aluminum frame, and a real project making tufted initials for my kids. When you’re done, check out my LaserPecker LX2 review too! The kit was gifted, and this post includes affiliate links.

In this Clawlab review, you’ll get a clear understanding of my take on setup, ease of use, and what to expect as a first-time tufter.

Some highlights of what you’ll see below include:

• Fast tension on the frame
• A one-hand gun that feels like a lot like a glue gun
• Smooth speed control
• Critiques of a few missing extras – like a yarn mount and a shearing tool.

If you want a compact setup that stores easily, this is a strong option for small rugs and wall decor. I’ll also share tips that saved my second take, like using latex carpet adhesive instead of thin craft glue.

First, you may prefer to watch the in-depth video review to see it in action:

What you get in the Clawlab tufting kit, and what you still need

The Clawlab tufting kit comes ready for a first project, and the differenet tools feel thought out. The frame focuses on tension and portability. The gun focuses on handling and – portability too! It all fits into a streamlined workflow you can pack away and use even if you do not have a dedicated craft room.

In the box: gun, frame, cloth, backing, yarn

• Tufting gun with USB-C to USB-C cable, a power brick, and an EU adapter
• Sturdy aluminum frame with side clamps and a rolling feed bar
• Starter piece of monks cloth (primary cloth), about 36 inches wide
• A piece of carpet backing
• 10 smallish balls of 8‑ply tufting yarn
• Several wire threaders
• A hard case for compact storage

The power cable is long, which helps if your outlet is not close by. The case keeps everything together between sessions.

If you want just one of the elements, you can get them individually – or as a set. Get the Clawlab Tufting Gun, the Clawlab Frame, or the all-in-one Clawlab Kit.

Supplies you’ll probably want to get in addition

• Latex carpet adhesive, not thin craft glue. I tried Mod Podge first. It was too runny, soaked in, and cost more per ounce than proper adhesive. The right glue makes a big difference. I used this latex carpet adhesive.
• Extra monks cloth. The Clawlab cloth gripped better than the generic roll I tried. If you can, get the tufting cloth from Clawlab.
• Backing materials: felt, or felt plus cardboard for stiffness – this is optional. The kit comes with rug backing cloth, but if making something like wall art or other small projects, felt is a great option.
• Fabric scissors, like these sharp fabric scissors
• Rug shaver or shears for finishing
• Markers for sketching your design
• Optional: a projector for transferring and tracing designs.

The included 8‑ply yarn are the ideal weight for your tufting, but it really just comes with a practice amount, so I recommend stocking up on much more yarns.

Thinner acrylic yarns from your stash can work if you double thread them. You’ll use more yardage when you do that.

Who it’s good for

This kit is a great fit for beginners, casual makers, and sellers of small rugs or wall art who want fast setup at home. It is great for small spaces since the gun packs into a case and the frame stores flat. It is less ideal if you need very wide pieces in one pass or want built-in yarn management. You can go long, but you’re limited to the width of the kit. It is good for pros too who don’t need anything wider than the existing width.

Clawlab Frame review: fast tension, solid clamps, easy storage

The frame is where setup stress usually lives when starting out with tufting. Clawlab’s easy to use frame eliminates that. It clamps to a surface, feeds the fabric with a rolling bar, and locks tension with simple knobs. That means you can get the fabric tension tight without wrestling nails or re-stretching again and again.

Setup and clamping in minutes

The side clamps grab a counter or table with a decent lip. Rubberized feet help the frame stand and prevent sliding.

Once it is clamped, it stays put under pressure – even if you’re pushing your gun into it. I mounted it on my kitchen counter and was tufting within minutes. If your desk has drawers right below the work surface, pick a surface with a few inches of depth so the clamps can have what to hold onto.

Tension knobs and rolling feed explained

The top bar has hook and loop to grab the monks cloth.

You roll the cloth onto the bar, seat the rod in the side notches, then feed it down through the upper and then lower bar slots. Pull about 7 cm of cloth through before you lock it. That little bit matters.

After that, crank the lower knob, make sure it clicks into place. Attach the fabric to the side bars and then crank the top knob. Keep turning until the fabric sounds tight when you tap it. You want that crisp, drum-like feel. It’ll take you a try or to to totally get the hang of it but once you do, it’ll be super easy.

Portability and build quality

The frame is thick aluminum, so it is sturdy but still light enough to carry with one hand. I could move it along with the gun in the other hand without a problem. It stores flat and slides behind a shelf or into a closet. If you do not have a craft room, that portability matters.

Limits to know before you buy

You need full-width cloth to get side-to-side tension, and you will use a few extra inches to lock it in. The width is fixed, not modular. If you plan to do very wide pieces in one pass, that is a constraint. The cloth edges can fuzz a bit when you clamp and release. That is normal for tufting and not a flaw in the frame.

Clawlab Tufting Gun review: one-hand control, quiet power, smooth results

The gun changed the way tufting felt in my hands. Most guns are bulky and two-handed. This one grips like a full-size glue gun, which makes it less intimidating. It is still weighty and solid, just simpler to hold and steer.

Ergonomics and handling

The plastic shell encloses the metal mechanism, so there are fewer exposed parts to catch on things. The one-hand grip is friendly if you deal with wrist or elbow issues. Tendinitis keeps me from lots of crafting experiences, and Clawlab makes tufting still be accessible for me.

Keeping the barrel straight does have a short learning curve, since two-hand models force that alignment. After a few practice passes, straight lines felt natural.

Speed dial and noise

A color bar on the back shifts from green to blue as you twist the dial. There is no numeric readout, but you can count clicks if you care. I outlined on a slower speed, then bumped it up for fills to get tight, even loops. The motor is quiet for a tufting tool. It gets louder when it hits the cloth, but it is still within pleasant ranges for heavy crafting.

Threading, yarn, and tension tips

You thread the gun with the included wire tool. Keep the gun off while threading – I kept forgetting to turn mine off but it seemed to power off on its own.

Leave plenty of yarn slack so the gun can feed smoothly. Before gluing, you’ll want to just yank out those hanging starting threads. 8‑ply tufting yarn fed best. If you use thinner acrylic, double thread it so the pile is full. There is a built-in tension adjuster on the gun, but beginners can leave it alone at first.

Real use: curves, outlines, and jams

Outlines were clean, and the gun handled tight curves nicely. A lighter one-hand body makes it easier to rotate your wrist around a bend without moving your whole body. I had no jams AT ALL while testing. Every hiccup came down to yarn issues, like a knot in the skein or not enough slack. I was absolutely amazed at how smooth the experience was for a beginner.

The hard case keeps the gun, threaders, and cable together so nothing wanders off between sessions.

Hands-on test: tufted kids initials, step by step

For the test project, I made letters for my kids to hang on their walls. I finished four letters total. The A used peach, purple, and orange blocks. The J used orange, green, and yellow to match my redhead’s vibe. I backed the letters with felt and used cardboard in some for extra stiffness.

Plan and sketch mirrored letters

Sketch letters on the back side of the cloth. The loops face the opposite side, so mirror anything directional, like J. Use a ruler for clean block shapes, or use a projector if you want perfect curves and angles. Mark color zones before you start if you plan a color-blocked letter – if you’d like to be very intentional with it. I just winged it.

Outline slow, fill fast for clean loops

Keep the barrel straight and move forward steadily. Do not tilt. Outline first on a low speed to stay on the line. Then fill on a higher speed in tight rows. Keep the rows close for a denser pile. Always keep a lot of the yarn pulled loose so it doesn’t resist the tufting and fail.

Glue, back, and trim for a clean finish

Use latex carpet adhesive and spread it with a scraper or a piece of cardboard. Let it dry fully before trimming. For wall decor, felt makes a neat back, and a layer of cardboard helps the piece stay flat. Trim strays with scissors. A rug shaver will clean the surface faster and crisper than scissors alone.

Results, timing, and cleanup

Each 10 to 11 inch tall letter took about 15 minutes to tuft once set up. Expect yarn fluff on the floor. That is normal. You will use more cloth than the letter size to lock in tension across the frame. That means that you might have some waste. I tufted a small project between the letters (which I’ll share with you) to avoid waste.

The final letters looked bright and bold. After glue and a quick trim, they were ready for hanging.

Conclusion

If you want an easy entry into tufting, this Clawlab review points to a smart pick for a beginner tufting gun and frame.

Pros include fast tension on the frame, portable build, one-hand lightweight gun, quiet motor, smooth results, tidy case. Cons include a fixed frame width (standard for frames but I’d love to see them make it adjustable), no yarn mount, and no shearing tool in the kit.

For first rugs, small wall pieces, and custom initials, it hits the sweet spot of simplicity and control. Add latex carpet adhesive, extra monks cloth, felt backing, and a rug shaver to your list. Ready to try it? Check the current price for the Clawlab Kit, or choose the Clawlab Frame or Clawlab Tufting Gun on their own.

The post Clawlab Review: Tufting Gun and Frame for Beginners (With Kids’ Initials Project) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.