This buffalo plaid bracelet pattern is not your childhood friendship bracelet! It’s sophisticated, modern, and oh, so cool – the perfect fall or winter jewelry accessory!

The idea popped into my head the other day: I MUST figure out how to make a buffalo plaid friendship bracelet! And so started a month long process.

First, despite my huge stash of strings, I simply did not have the correct colors.

Then, the original process didn’t quite cut it. And then finally, I LOST one of the bracelets I had worked on for a long time!!

I’m really excited to finally sharing with you this buffalo plaid friendship bracelet pattern.

This bracelet uses an alpha pattern with a running string that is used in every single knot and runs from left to right and then to left again.

It’s not an easy bracelet really, since you’re working with long strings and constantly switching off, however the concept is very simple with a basic set of rules that’s easy to remember.

One of my favorite features of this buffalo plaid bracelet is that it looks fabulous on both sides!! The back takes on a basket-weave look and is quite beautiful as well.

The textile look of this bracelet is so much more sophisticated than your typical friendship bracelet and makes it a fabulous fall or winter accessory.

I tried making it in three color schemes that are relatively neutral: tans, muted reds, and olive greens. You can also make it in very seasonal colors: bright red or green, pink, blue.

As long as you choose the correct color combo, it’ll look fab – and I offer tips on that below, so you’ll get it right!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

While I do outline step by step instructions below, I want to summarize the process for those of you who might be more skilled. I also share some of the crafting tips and decision making process that makes a big difference to the final bracelet here, so definitely skim it, even if you’re not a pro!

Choosing your colors

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

Just like when I created a 3d zig zag friendship bracelet and a 3D diamond friendship bracelet pattern, the color creates the effect. This might not be 3D but choosing the right colors is what makes it look like a Buffalo plaid bracelet.

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

If you look at classic Buffalo plaid, it often has a very bright “light”. That’s okay, as long as you can get a good medium for it. I purchased my strings individually in-store (at Michaels) from open-stock embroidery floss for this bracelet. This way, I could lay it out and choose.

DMC Colors I used (dark to light):

• Green bracelet: 500, 501, 504
• Red bracelet: 3371, 3830, 3779
• Brown bracelet: 3021, 3790, 3033

The Basic Rules to Making a Buffalo Plaid Bracelet

To make a buffalo plaid bracelet, you do NOT need to sit with an actual pattern in front of you. Remember to follow these basic rules:

• You’re creating 4×4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot – either it’s being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium – it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you’re up to – a light row or a dark row.

And that pretty much sums up the rules of making a buffalo plaid bracelet! See? No pattern needed! But I’ll give you one anyway.

Buffalo Plaid Bracelet Pattern Summary (for pros)

This is for those of you who just want the process in brief, without step-by-step photos. There is a printable version at the end of this post.

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Starting and finishing your bracelet

When it comes to classier friendship bracelets like this one, I like to give it that kind of respect. Therefore, I used the ribbon crimp method to finish this off.

This not only gives it a polished “real jewelry” touch, but it also allows it to be taken on and off more easily. It also makes it fabulous to stack with real jewelry. Simply make sure to get the correct size crimp. This will depend in part on the size of your string and the tension of your knots. I purchased this package which has a few sizes that are close enough that you have what to choose from.

There are more traditional ways to finish this off – you can read how to start and finish a friendship bracelet.

Step by Step Tutorial for a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Supplies needed

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Thread snips
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Clasp and jump rings

Starting your bracelet

1. Cut your string as follows: Light: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Dark: 72 inches. Cut two of these and fold each in half. Medium: 13 feet. It can be hard to work with a very long string, so you may want to wrap it around a scrap of cardboard with wider ends, to make a mini skein.

2. Arrange your strings as follows: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Tape them down with a bit of tape. I found it best to start this bracelet flat and NOT with a knot. It’s just clearer. To do this, I started it taped in order (closer than pictured) to a surface. after one round, I was able to remove it from the surface. You can also simply lay it on a flat piece of tape in order, and place another piece of tape on top, if you prefer not to work attached to a surface.

Knotting your bracelet

To make this, you NEED to know how to make forward and backward knots. It’s not really a total beginner bracelet (although it’s not very complex.) If you don’t yet, first learn how to make a friendship bracelet and then come back to this tutorial.

Rule: you’re always moving your ONE medium colored string along to the next knot.

Row 1:

Work this row from left to right, moving your medium string along to the next position with each knot.

1. Start with your left (medium) string. Forward knot it around the string to its right (light) and pull tight.

2. Forward knot the same (medium) string around the next light to the right.

3. Backwards knot the next string to the right of your medium (dark) around the medium. The next string to the right will again be a dark. Backward knot it around your medium.

4. Repeat steps 1-3 with the next four strings. Forward knot your medium around the light to its right. You’ll have another light to its right so forward knot medium around it. The next string is a dark so backward knot the dark around the medium and repeat with the next dark.

Row 2:

Row two needs to look exactly like row one, only you’re working from right to left since your medium string is at the right.

5. Forward knot the dark to the left of your medium around your medium. This IS the string you just worked with.

6. Forward knot the next dark around medium.

7. Backward knot medium around the right to the left of it. Repeat with the next light that’s now to the left of it.

8. Repeat: Forward knot dark around medium, forward knot dark around medium, backward knot medium around dark, and backward knot medium around dark until you’re back at your starting point and your original string order.

Rows 3 & 4:

Row 3 works left to right, moving the medium along as you did before and row 4 mimics row 3, working from right to left.

9. Backward knot light around medium. Repeat with the next light to the right: backward knot around medium.

10. Forward knot medium around dark. Forward knot medium again around the next dark.

11. Repeat: Backward knot light around medium, and the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then around the next dark.

12. Repeat row 3 working from right to left. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium. Backwards knot medium around dark, medium around dark. Forward knot light around medium, light around medium.

Repeat this process until your bracelet is almost long enough to wear! Leave an inch for the clasp and crimps.

Finishing it off

13. Carefully remove the starting tape and hold your strings so that they form a row no wider than the width of your bracelet. Place a thin line of hot glue where the strings end. Repeat on the finishing point of your bracelet. When the hot glue is totally dry, flip it over and repeat on the back .

14. When your hot glue is dry on both sides, attach a ribbon crimp to each end. Attach a clasp and connector to your ribbon crimp – or read this tutorial for how to add a clasp to a friendship bracelet. Your buffalo plaid bracelet is complete!

I hope you love your gorgeous buffalo plaid friendship bracelet and wear it all year long! Which color combination will YOU try? Comment below!

How to Make a Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Active Time: 2 hours

Total Time: 2 hours 5 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $1

Learn how to make a gorgeous, sophisticated buffalo plaid firnedship bracelet - or micro macrame! This stunning winter accessory is simple to DIY and fun for teens through adults.

Print

Materials

• Light, medium, and dark of the same color embroidery floss (I used DMC 25 open stock)
• Washi tape (or other low-tack tape)
• Ribbon crimps
• Clasp and connector - I used jump rings

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Hot glue gun
• Thread snips

Instructions

Cut strings: Light: 72 inches, cut 2; Dark: 72 inches, cut 2; Medium: about 13 feet (or half a skein)

Arrange strings: Medium single, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over, Light doubled over, Dark doubled over. You have a total of nine working strands.

Knots used: Forward, backward.

Row 1: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Forward knot medium around light, then light. Backward knot dark around medium. Backward knot next dark around medium. Forward knot medium around light and again around the next light. Backward knot dark around medium and again with the next dark.

Row 2: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Forward knot dark (the one you just used) around medium. Forward knot next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and again around light. Forward knot dark around medium and next dark around medium. Backward knot medium around light and then the next light.

Row 3: Work this row left to right. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves one to the right. Backward knot light around medium, then the next light around medium. Forward knot medium around dark, and then medium around the next dark. Backward knot the following light around medium, and again with the next. Forward knot medium around the next dark, and then the next.

Row 4: Work this row right to left. Make sure that with each knot the medium one moves to the left. Mimic the row before: each knot should be the same as the one above. Backward knot medium around dark, and again around dark. Forward knot the next light around medium, and same with the next light. Backward knot medium around the next two dark (separately). And then forward knot the next two lights (individually) around medium.

Repeat these four rows until your bracelet is complete!

Notes

Color choice is EVERYTHING when making a buffalo plaid bracelet!

You want a dark (which can be black, brown, charcoal gray), a light (which could be white or tinted), and a medium (a brighter color, can be more dull, as if it has some black in it.)

You can also use bright, dulled, and black as your light, medium, and dark.

This bracelet follows basic rules:

• You're creating 4x4 squares of each color of knot.
• The medium color moves throughout the bracelet and is involved in each knot - either it's being knotted or knotted around.
• You have alternating mediums in each row, but dark or light in every other row. And medium should never be on top of medium - it should always be under dark or light.
• Whether you knot the medium or around the medium depends where in your pattern you're up to - a light row or a dark row.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Buffalo Plaid Friendship Bracelet Pattern appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

My favorite trick for setting a pretty table: accessorize! One of my favorite ways to dress up my weekly Shabbat table, or any holiday tablescape, is using pretty fabric napkins with napkin rings. I’ve created so many different types (these resin napkin rings are one of my favorites, and these clay napkin rings are pretty cool too).

I decided that I needed to try to crochet napkin rings so that I can offer you a free pattern – and for a bit of a different vibe! While most napkin rings add a bit more glam or work as “jewelry” for the table, these crochet napkin rings are totally sweater chic!

How to set a cozy fall table with crochet napkin rings

Tablescaping Tips

My vision for these crochet napkin rings was to make a little sweater to go on each napkin. While I’ve shown it to you in two different colors, I’d recommend sticking with one.

Stick to neutral napkins or ones with a bold print. If using a printed napkin, go for a solid colored plate.

These pair beautifully with tables that are full of texture: think pampas instead of flowers, deep nature-derived colors, and a textured tablecloth instead of a patterned one.

Styling the napkin rings

The napkin rings are not stiff like some others. If you want another great fall option that has more structure, these DIY leather napkin rings that open flat might be a better option for you.

These need to be shaped on the napkin itself. Wiggle the napkin through (it has traction, so you’ll need to feed it on, like stockings). Then shape the ring around the napkin.

Depending on how smooth or visible your seam is, you may want to place the seam on the bottom.

Tips for making your own crochet napkin rings – perfect crochet for beginners!

One of the reasons that these crochet napkin rings are such a great crochet project for beginners is that they’re SO forgiving. Missed your count? Just make it the right size!

And since you need to make a set, it’s a fabulous practice craft for new stitches that you want to get the hang of before investing in a larger project. Just make napkin rings until you get the hang of the stitch!

Ready to learn? I’ve used a rib stitch in this tutorial, and it’s easier than you think, but first, some tips.

Tension and sizing

When it comes to crochet, tension and the weight of your yarn make a very big difference to the final result. On this one, the yellow was made using very loose tension, because I was leaving things open to show you clearly in the tutorial.

The burnt orange one was made using tighter stitches. That allows it to hold and shape the napkin better and is ideal.

Choosing your yarn

I chose a very basic “super saver” worsted yarn for this, but you can go with anything! If you’re a true beginner, stick to simple. If you’re used to crochet, you can go for something fuzzy like a chenille yarn to up the cozy factor. You won’t see the ribbing as well on that.

For a more elegant look, go for a finer and smoother yarn.

Rib stitch crochet

I used a very easy rib crochet stitch to add a bit more texture to these crochet napkin rings. Don’t run now!

The way you rib stitch crochet is by simply stitching into one loop instead of two! We did a single crochet since it’s a small project. You know how each row creates a row of chain at the top? And your next row goes into both loops of those chains? Instead, we’re just using the front row. It’s that easy.

Adapting the tutorial

I’ve shared a specific pattern for these crochet napkin rings, but you’ll find that you really don’t need to follow it! You may want yours narrower or wider, very small, or big enough to hold a very thick napkin.

The concept is so simple: just crochet a long rectangle, connect the ends, and you have a crochet napkin ring!

And since I didn’t add anything to it – it’s just a ring, try the following ways to dress it up:

• Sew on buttons
• Add beads to the center stitch of each row (do an odd number).
• Crochet a simple flower to add to the front – or maple leaves.
• Add stitching/yarn embroidery with initials or fall motifs

Crochet Napkin Rings Pattern

Supplies Needed

• Medium-weight yarn. I used size 4 worsted Super Saver yarn
• Crochet hook – I used a 5mm hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Stitches Used

You can do this with any stitch, and I did teach you how to do each stitch, but if you’re following my tutorial, I recommend you know the following stitches first:

• CH – chain
• SC – single crochet (we did a ribbed version of it, I’ll show you how)

Watch the YouTube video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos. I highly recommend you also watch the video for this one – I added some tips as I worked.

How to make crochet napkin rings – step by step

1. Create a slipknot and insert your hook.

2. Chain 7. This will determine the WIDTH of your crochet napkin rings, so feel free to adjust accordingly.

3. Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook.

4. Single crochet: yarn over, pull through the first loop so that you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull it through both loops so that you’re left with one loop on the hook.

5. Repeat this four more times (you have a total of SIX single crochets – the turning one, the one we did to show you, and now four more.)

6. Chain one turning chain.

7. Now we’re going to switch things up again. We’re still single crocheting, but we want to create a ribbed texture. So instead of inserting the hook through BOTH loops of the stitch, we’re only inserting it through the FRONT LOOP. Skip your turning stitch and start from there.

8. Single crochet five times across in the front loop only.

9. Keep repeating this process: chain 1, single crochet in the front loop only five times (skipping the first chain). Do 5-8 rows. This will depend on your tension, your preferred ring size – just keep adding rows until you have enough to form a ring the size you want it.

10. Leave about a foot of yarn and trim it from the spool. Pull the loop open, pulling the tail through until it’s hanging and no longer a loop.

11. You’ll now want to connect your ends. Attach a darning needle to your tail.

12. There are many ways you can choose to do this, but I decided to simply sew the ends together flat, to keep it as seamless as possible. Match up your first and last rows of stitches, and stitch one or two times in each of the corresponding stitches.

13. Weave in your ends and trim.

Your crochet napkin rings are complete! Now go ahead and crochet sunflowers to attach to them! Or try this free crochet daisy pattern for a lighter look.

DIY Crochet Napkin Rings

Active Time: 30 minutes

Total Time: 30 minutes

Difficulty: Intermediate

Estimated Cost: $8

Learn how to crochet napkin rings for some cozy fall table decor!

Print

Materials

• Medium-weight yarn. I used size 4 worsted Super Saver yarn
• Crochet hook - I used a 5mm hook
• Darning needle
• Scissors

Instructions

1. Create a slipknot and insert your hook.

2. Chain 7. This will determine the WIDTH of your crochet napkin rings, so feel free to adjust accordingly.

3. Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook.

4. Single crochet: yarn over, pull through the first loop so that you have two loops on the hook. Yarn over again, and pull it through both loops so that you're left with one loop on the hook.

5. Repeat this four more times (you have a total of SIX single crochets - the turning one, the one we did to show you, and now four more.)

6. Chain one turning chain.

7. Now we're going to switch things up again. We're still single crocheting, but we want to create a ribbed texture. So instead of inserting the hook through BOTH loops of the stitch, we're only inserting it through the FRONT LOOP. Skip your turning stitch and start from there.

8. Single crochet five times across in the front loop only.

9. Keep repeating this process: chain 1, single crochet in the front loop only five times (skipping the first chain). Do 5-8 rows. This will depend on your tension, your preferred ring size - just keep adding rows until you have enough to form a ring the size you want it.

10. Leave about a foot of yarn and trim it from the spool. Pull the loop open, pulling the tail through until it's hanging and no longer a loop.

11. You'll now want to connect your ends. Attach a darning needle to your tail.

12. There are many ways you can choose to do this, but I decided to simply sew the ends together flat, to keep it as seamless as possible. Match up your first and last rows of stitches, and stitch one or two times in each of the corresponding stitches.

13. Weave in your ends and trim.

Notes

You can do this with any stitch, and I did teach you how to do each stitch, but if you're following my tutorial, I recommend you know the following stitches first:

• CH - chain
• SC - single crochet (we did a ribbed version of it, I'll show you how)

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Crochet Napkin Rings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

As I was coloring in these leaf coloring pages, I realized that I must – I mean MUST – turn them into suncatchers. They were so beautiful, with bright pops of color that just had to adorn the house for fall.

I’m thinking of all those glorious and cozy fall holidays, especially Thanksgiving! These are just perfect decorations that anyone can make.

I experimented with different methods of turning the paper translucent on a scrap paper, and found the baby oil method to be the perfect idea. It’s easy, affordable, and hard to get wrong.

I’ll be sharing loads of tips for making these, but meanwhile, you can grab the coloring pages right here!

Tips for making autumn leaf suncatchers

Using baby oil to make paper translucent

I wanted to turn the paper translucent, and I tried a few methods. I found that using dish soap mixed with water made colors run. However, baby oil, due to the nature of oil and water not mixing, really just soaked into the paper and didn’t affect the coloring.

I chose baby oil because I felt like it was very neutral and unlikely to go rancid, unlike food oils. Definitely feel free to try this with other oils!

The trick really worked wonderfully. I used a cotton ball with a clothespin as a brush to really hold enough oil to allow me to sufficiently soak it.

You can also pour the oil onto a plate and place the leaf inside, allowing it to soak in.

The only downside of the baby oil method: it does leave your project slightly greasy! However, it’s baby oil, and not a “dirty” grease, so I’m personally fine with it. It’s not necessarily the best project to store from year to year, but it’s really fun while you’re using it.

Which art supplies can you use to color these?

One of the cool things about using baby oil is that you can really use a number of art supplies, especially water-based ones. Water and oil don’t mix, so scientifically, the oil shouldn’t smudge it. And even alcohol based art supplies, like the Ohuhu markers I used, worked fabulously.

For younger kids, I’d recommend using washable markers or other water-based markers. Again, it does not matter if they are water soluble, as it won’t mix! For wax crayons or oil pastels, I would recommend testing them first. I’d imagine that if you have too thick a surface on the autumn leaf suncatchers, it will prevent the oil from absorbing.

So if you’re using something else, test it first! Just swatch your art supply, dab on (or soak in) baby oil, and see if it works!

Hanging up your autumn leaf suncatchers

One of the biggest challenges when crafting these autumn leaf suncatchers: how do you tack it up if it has a slick surface??!! While we DID dab away as much of the baby oil as possible, some will naturally sit on the surface. I’ll share the fixes that I did myself and some other ideas to play with – to see for yourself if they work.

For starters, I used Duck Brand’s Nano Grab circles. This is a very strong permanent or temporary double-sided tape (the kind with the gel texture). It just barely holds the lightweight leaves with all the grease involved, but it held for the time I tested it.

It’s also translucent, and you can barely see it through. The only caveat is that you might not know if it comes off the window cleanly. I pulled hard to get it off the window, and it did come totally off without leaving residue. I recommend deciding for yourself and testing it, as I offer no guarantees it’ll come off.

Some other ideas for finishing off and hanging your autumn leaf suncatchers:

• You can cut out frames for it using black paper and staple them in place, but it’s a bit of a complex shape, and you’ll want it around the leaf, not backing the leaf, to retain the suncatcher effect.
• You can laminate it or enclose it in clear contact paper. I don’t know how it’ll hold or how well it’ll be preserved. But it’ll be held together around it (even though it won’t adhere to the actual leaf), and you can hang it from the plastic cover.
• Punch a hole and hang it from a string or a suction hook.

These are fabulous to make as a fall craft for the classroom, a library activity, or in art class! Make these to decorate the classroom window or even your sukkah!

How to make autumn leaf suncatchers – step by step

You’ll need

• The leaf coloring pages, printed on regular copy paper, nothing thicker
• Art supplies (see notes above) – I used Ohuhu alcohol markers
• Scissors
• Clothespin
• Cotton ball
• Baby oil (other oils may work – feel free to test them)
• A protective surface
• Paper towels
• Nano-Grab mounting dots Important: I cannot guarantee that this will come cleanly off your window. I tested it on mine on the window, and it came off nicely, but I don’t take responsibility for your use of it!

Watch the video:

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Process

1. Color in your leaves however you’d like! Go fancy or keep it simple.

2. Cut out your leaves. The stem is a bit delicate, so be careful with it!

3. We’re going to be using regular baby oil to make the page translucent. Start by protecting your surface – oil usually stains permanently.

4. Use a clothespin as a handle and insert a cotton ball.

5. Pour some baby oil onto the cotton ball.

6. Start dabbing and painting! You’ll want to cover the whole surface with a layer of baby oil.

7. Let it sit for a few minutes (at least) to absorb into the paper. Then, dab off the excess oil by placing it between two sheets of paper towel and patting off what you can.

8. It’ll still be a bit greasy. See more ideas for finishing it off in the intro to this post if you want alternatives. The best way I found to hang it was using Nano-Grab circles – they’re transparent and they hold the greasy surface, although not extremely strongly. Test it on a surface you don’t mind ruining before using it on a window you care about.

Your autumn leaf suncatchers are complete – aren’t you just thrilled with them?

DIY Autumn Leaf Suncatchers Using Baby Oil

Print

Materials

• The leaf coloring pages, printed on regular copy paper, nothing thicker
• Art supplies (see notes above) - I used Ohuhu alcohol markers
• Scissors
• Clothespin
• Cotton ball
• Baby oil (other oils may work - feel free to test them)
• A protective surface
• Paper towels
• Nano-Grab mounting dots Important: I cannot guarantee that this will come cleanly off your window. I tested it on mine on the window, and it came off nicely, but I don't take responsibility for your use of it!

Instructions

1. Color in your leaves however you'd like! Go fancy or keep it simple.

2. Cut out your leaves. The stem is a bit delicate, so be careful with it!

3. We're going to be using regular baby oil to make the page translucent. Start by protecting your surface - oil usually stains permanently.

4. Use a clothespin as a handle and insert a cotton ball.

5. Pour some baby oil onto the cotton ball.

6. Start dabbing and painting! You'll want to cover the whole surface with a layer of baby oil.

7. Let it sit for a few minutes (at least) to absorb into the paper. Then, dab off the excess oil by placing it between two sheets of paper towel and patting off what you can.

8. It'll still be a bit greasy. See more ideas for finishing it off in the intro to this post if you want alternatives. The best way I found to hang it was using Nano-Grab circles - they're transparent and they hold the greasy surface, although not extremely strongly. Test it on a surface you don't mind ruining before using it on a window you care about.

Your autumn leaf suncatchers are complete - aren't you just thrilled with them?

Notes

I experimented with different methods of turning the paper translucent on a scrap paper, and found the baby oil method to be the perfect idea. It's easy, affordable, and hard to get wrong.

I wanted to turn the paper translucent, and I tried a few methods. I found that using dish soap mixed with water made colors run. However, baby oil, due to the nature of oil and water not mixing, really just soaked into the paper and didn't affect the coloring.

I chose baby oil because I felt like it was very neutral and unlikely to go rancid, unlike food oils. Definitely feel free to try this with other oils!

The trick really worked wonderfully. I used a cotton ball with a clothespin as a brush to really hold enough oil to allow me to sufficiently soak it.

You can also pour the oil onto a plate and place the leaf inside, allowing it to soak in.

The only downside of the baby oil method: it does leave your project slightly greasy! However, it's baby oil, and not a "dirty" grease, so I'm personally fine with it. It's not necessarily the best project to store from year to year, but it's really fun while you're using it.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post Autumn Leaf Suncatchers – Baby Oil Translucent Paper Method appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

If you’re looking for pretty and simple printable leaf coloring pages, this set includes maple, oak, palm, aspen – and 8 more leaves! When you’re done, check out these mushroom coloring pages, too. This post contains affiliate links.

If you’re a fan of coloring of any age, leaf coloring pages are a must-try. Leaves are one of those wonders of nature: they are so similar in basic structure, yet so different! Virtually any plant can be identified by simply snapping a photo of its leaves.

That’s why these leaf coloring pages were kept simple: focus on the simplified shape of each leaf and have fun coloring!

And yes, grown-ups and kids can both have fun learning about leaf shapes and coloring in leaves with these. Kids can color them in more simply or get creative, and adults can practice shading and highlighting, and blending various art supplies on these.

Learn more about the Leaf Coloring Pages

A peek at the whole bundle

These coloring pages are sold as a bundle, ready for you to download and explore. They include the following leaves.

You have a magnolia, maple, ash, and palm. These are obviously not proportionate to each other and are designed to fill the page as much as possible.

There’s Linden, chestnut (note: the spelling has been fixed on your copy).

Finally, you get Lilac (did you know that’s a tree?) Birch, Poplar, and Holly.

While these are great for any time, they are fabulous for coloring and using in fall crafts – or even Christmas! Do them all at once or break them out for certain occasions.

Download the leaf coloring pages

This is a premium download, available in my shop, on Etsy, and on TpT. Your purchase helps keep this blog alive and the tutorials coming.

Tips for coloring leaf coloring pages

What I used

I always like to share my best tips for coloring these when I can.

For these, I pulled out my Ohuhu alcohol markers. I pulled out sets of similar colors – and stepped a bit outside the expected bounds, going deeper, darker, yellower, and browner than the obvious.

I protected my surface using a sheet of plastic for backing. The markers I used were fine tip on one side and chisel on the other. I do find brush-tip alcohol markers easier to blend since they fade more naturally.

Alcohol markers are fabulous for layering and blending on projects like this one because they won’t soak the page and shrivel it – they just absorb right in.

Color theory in leaf coloring pages

When choosing your colors, don’t just stick with the obvious. Think of the variation in color in what you see, and step outside the box. On the red maple leaf, I added a splash of yellow that really made it pop more than the others.

The aspen would never be a flat yellow. It always has a brown tone to it.

Studying photos of leaves as you color your leaf coloring pages is a really helpful way to get a convincing effect.

More cool supplies for coloring leaf coloring pages

If you’re not up for using alcohol markers, or just aren’t in the mood for them, try this (and yes, you can follow the steps below roughly using these media too):

• Try this with chalk pastels instead
• Soft core colored pencils are a favorite! A good mid-range brand is Prismacolor Premiere.
• Trace the design onto a watercolor board using carbon paper and color it with watercolors.

You can also add highlights using a white gel pen, sparkle using a gold paint marker, or use your imagination to overlay it with doodles and mandalas!

How to color leaf coloring pages – step by step tutorial

I usually stick to basic tips and not an exact process for coloring pages, because you need to be the artist.

However, since this is a more nature-sourced and specific – “technical” – coloring page, I’ll follow a process – but do whatever YOU’D like!

1. Swatch each color you plan to use before you start, testing how they blend. For the maple leaf, start with a darker red. Fill in around the border, adding thicker blocks of color in some spaces.

Avoid making things too homogeneous.

2. Take a lighter and brighter shade of red and color over it, blending the colors together. I recommend coloring over your darker color, too, to get a better blend. Use light blending strokes as needed.

3. Keep going lighter and brighter. Don’t be afraid to go more orange and yellow. If you go too bright too fast, choose an in-between color to blend things better.

And remember, nature doesn’t have perfect blends either!

4. Keep going, overlapping and blending.

I often like to find a very light shade that I can use to go over the whole thing and set a specific “tone”.

5. For the aspen leaf, which I colored “yellow”, I started out with tans as my deeper color, working my way into golden tones and yellow. This one I left flat and less dynamic.

6. On the oak, which I colored green, I started out with deeper colors on the inside, working my way lighter. I did jump ahead a bit on this one, coloring the outline in the light shade first just because I wanted to block that in with neat strokes to allow me to then do more fast strokes on the inside.

I did then go over the whole leaf with the same process.

Have fun coloring your leaf coloring pages! And no, you don’t need to keep them realistic! You can color them in a rainbow spectrum, see how many shades of green you can discover, or just work with any fantastical color scheme!

And yes, this would make a FABULOUS classroom project – whether it’s a bulletin board or garland. Give everyone a leaf to color and see what they come up with!

In case you missed it, download your leaf coloring pages in my shop, on Etsy, and on TpT!

If you enjoyed this, you’ll definitely want to check out my tutorial on how to draw a maple leaf!

The post 12 Printable Leaf Coloring Pages – Maple, Oak, Palm, and more! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

It’s been a while since I shared a good back to school craft, so I decided to design some back to school Shrinky Dinks templates for you to enjoy! These school supplies are super fun and friendly, and include a printable traceable template so that anyone can craft them.

They’re the perfect way to keep your big kids and tweens busy in the days before school starts, with a relaxing craft that’s functional and fun!

Tips for making your Back to School Shrinky Dinks

Shrinky dinks are the type of craft that can be done at virtually any level – and I’m going to teach you how to do it right. But you can, of course, take the “I’m just doing it” approach and ignore these instructions – do it the way you always have!

Which markers to use

You can do Shrinky Dinks with many different types of markers, however, my personal preference will always be paint markers! They give a gorgeous, professional, opaque finish.

There is, however, one big downside: they do not absorb into the surface of your project at all. When you have a paint that sits on a non-porous (smooth) surface, it scratches off very easily. So you’ll want to seal it.

Sharpies (or any regular alcohol-based permanent markers) don’t represent that problem. They absorb right in, giving you a seamless finish. However, they are translucent so your effect will be a bit different.

I wanted to show this to you using an affordable but high quality paint marker, so I used Ohuhu’s dual tipped acrylic markers for this. They are great but I do find that my (pricey) Poscas have a more consistent solid finish and last far longer.

So if you’re looking to invest in high quality art supplies, get those Poscas, but if you’re looking for a more affordable supply for you next few crafts, the Ohuhus are fabulous.

Shrinking them

The classic way to shrink Shrinky Dinks is to pop them in the oven (or whatever the package says). My personal preference is to zap it with a heat gun. You have more control, you’re not melting toxic plastics in your food prep areas, and it can be done right in the craft room.

The plastic will twist and turn all different ways but once you’ve properly melted it all, it should lay mostly flat. I did mess up a bit on the eraser, stopping too soon, but it was mostly fixable.

You can then flatten it further with a silicone turner or whatever you have handy (I used my metal water bottle.)

Sealing them

Sealing Shrinky Dinks is a million dollar question – and there are many ways to do it (I’m working on a separate post for that!). You absolutely need to seal them if you’re creating something you want to last long, and if you’re using paint markres.

I sprayed an acrylic spray over it. The trick is to go very light with your layer and do multiple layers if needed.

More options for sealing it are UV resin (really my favorite), Dimensional Magic from Mod Podge, or other hard finishing Mod Podge formulas (such as outdoor, Ultra gloss, or Dishwasher safe formulas).

What to make with these back to school Shrinky Dinks

The question really is – what do you do with your back to school Shrinky Dinks once you’ve made them? There are so many things you can do – you can just do them for fun or turn them into something cool!

Turning them into keychains

I decided that keychains are the perfect back to school craft so that’s what I did! The backpack has a natural point on the design to add a jumpring and keychain but the others needed holes punched.

I used two types of keychains for this: ball chain for some, and a regular split ring keychain for some. I really liked the ball chain better but I made the hole too small on some. It’s a fun choice for back-to-school workshops as it is so easy to install and comes in fun colors.

Once you turn them into keychains, you can hang them on backpacks – but don’t stop there! Attach them to your zipper binders, pencil cases, or even hoodie zippers!

You can even use these as name labels, writing a name on the back (post shrinking) with a permanent marker. Just be aware that keychains sometimes do fall off, so add an alternative name to the item as well.

Making Jewelry and other ideas

Shrinky dinks can also be turned into jewelry, however, these school supplies were sized for keychains. Some of the smaller ones are still the right size for dangle earrings (like the pencil sharpener and eraser) or even pendants (like the notebook and crayon). Some need to be printed at smaller scale.

You can make these smaller and try the following:

• Punch holes, add a jumpring, and hang from a string to make a necklace.
• Punch holes, add a jumpring and a bead link and then an earwire to make dangle earrings.
• Glue onto flat pad ear studs to make stud earrings.
• Punch a hole, add a jumpring, and attach to a link bracelet to make a charm bracelet!

The Back to School Shrinky Dinks designs

Before I share the actual tutorial, I want to show you the designs that I made:

First is a friendly crayon! I colored her purple.

Next is a bright and colorful backpack.

I created a marble composition notebook too. You can ditch the face on this one and write something in the name space instead.

Classic yellow pencils with bright pink erasers are always winners!

But we did include a standalone eraser, a mainstay on supplies lists, too.

And why not add in a long ruler for interest! You can make this as a bracelet or ring if you manage to size it right – and curl it around something while still hot (wear heat-proof gloves to do this.)

The sharpener is way too cute – with a toothy smile, of course!

These fit beautifully on one sheet of Shrinky Dinks, but you can, of course, make just the ones you like best!

How to make back to school Shrinky Dinks

Supplies Needed

• The template printed on paper (download it at the end of this post)
• A sheet of clear Shrinky Dinks
• Washi or other low tack paper tape
• Paint markers
• Scissors
• Hole punch
• Resin (UV resin + lamp + silicone paintbrush) or acrylic sealer to seal it
• Keychains – split ring or ball chain

To shrink it manually (you can use an oven instead)

• Heat gun
• Protective surface (something you’d iron on)
• Pick tool to hold it in place while shrinking
• Silicone spatula, metal water bottle, or some other heat-resistant item that can be used to flatten it.

Process

1. Tape your Shrinky Dinks over your template.

2. Start coloring your design! I like to first fill in the inside color, making sure not to color over the outlines (since the paint marker is opaque – you won’t be able to see it well. )

3. Then, I go over the outlines. If an area is white make sure to color that as well.

Trace all the ones you plan to make!

4. Remove the images from the background, and make sure you didn’t miss any important spots.

5. Cut them out around the border. I cut them on the lines -you can leave a bit of a border if you want.

6. Punch a hole (the backpack doesn’t need it if you cut out inside the top handle.) I do recommend using a regular sized hole punch – not a small one. It shrinks quite a lot. Leave enough space at the edge for it to stay strong (at least the size of the hole).

7. Place your plastic on a heat protective surface. Hold it in place with a pick in the hole (so you don’t poke a new one) and zap! Move your gun around and shrink it evenly all around, until it’s basically re-proportionate and stops shrinking.

8. If you can, quickly flatten it further with something heat-resistant. I used a water bottle but a spatula can work more efficiently.

Shrink all your pieces!

9. Seal your back to school shrinky dinks using your preferred method.

10. Attach a keychain and enjoy!

Your back to school Shrinky Dinks are complete! Which will you be making? Comment below!

Download the Back to School Shrinky Dinks traceable Templates

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Back to School Shrinky Dinks – Free Traceable Templates appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Are you ready for a sweet stitching project that’s both adorable and functional? This teacup bookmark is an excellent craft for those who like to sew but don’t have much time, or those who are newer to sewing. Or just anyone who likes cute things in miniature (that’s me!)

What I love the most about this bookmark design is that it’s really something different – instead of a piece of paper sticking up out of the edge of your book with some cute but random design, in this case the bookmark is a real part of the tea motif, with the string from the tea bag holding your place. I also love this because a simple strand of yarn is very low-profile and won’t cause your book’s pages to wrinkle at all.

The stitching gives this project a quaint, cottage look that goes with the classic feeling of a warm cup of tea. It will go perfectly with a relaxing book under a cozy throw blanket!

The tea motif also makes this a great activity for a tea party. It’s easy enough to do in a group, as long as you have enough needles to go around. Due to the small size of the pieces and the needlework, this project requires good fine motor skills and is best suited for a party of crafters in or beyond middle school. (Of course, if you’re doing it individually and not in a group, you can assess your own or your child’s level of capability at any age and provide support as needed.)

If you love the idea but want to use it with younger crafters, you can use the same template for the shapes, substituting foam instead of felt and craft glue instead of sewing. 

The instructions below do not specify what type of stitches to use for sewing, leaving you the choice of whether to do what is most comfortable for you or to learn or practice something new! Beginners might want to start with a simple whip stitch or running stitch, while those who are ready for something more can try using a blanket stitch around the edges of the cup and tag.

The illustrations suggest colors to use for each of the parts, but this too is your choice. Choose felt sheets or scraps in colors that make you happy! Make sure to use nice, sharp scissors to cut the felt cleanly.

I love crafting things like this as a sweet gift for the book lover in your life, and it’s a fabulous companion gift to bundle with a favorite book

What you need

• Soft felt sheets
• Scissors – I recommend having good, sharp fabric and detail scissors handy.
• Yarn (white) 
• Embroidery floss or thread
• Sewing needle
• Marker or fabric chalk
• Teacup template (download and print at the end of this post)

Instructions:

1. Print and cut out the template pieces – three teacup parts, tea, tea bag tag, flower, and leaf. Trace them onto the felt colors of your choice, and cut them out.

2. Take one of the tea bag tags and place a leaf cutout on it. Arrange the flower pieces on the front teacup piece.

Thread a needle with thread that matches or complements the flower.

3. Sew the center of the flower (the circle) around the edge. Go through all the layers,  attaching both the circle and the flower petals to the cup.

Arrange the flower leaves around the flower and thread your needle with a color that matches or complements the leaves.

4. Stitch the leaves down their centers to attach them to the teacup. 

Because the shapes are so small, these few stitches will hold them all together – you don’t need to sew around the edges of the leaves or petals.

5. Sew the leaf on the tea bag tag by stitching around the edges.

Cut a length of yarn a little longer than the height of a typical book. Place about an inch of the yarn on top of the unused tea bag tag. Thread your needle with white thread.

6. Place the tag with the leaf on top of the plain tag, with the end of the yarn in between them.

7. Stitch the tags together along the edges. Get some of the top stitches going through the strand of yarn to secure it (you can also use some glue to help hold the yarn in place. You won’t see it inside the tag.)

8. Take the back of the cup cutout and place the handle on one side, slightly overlapping the side of the cup.

9. Put the tea near the top of the teacup base.

10. Put the front of the cup on top – line up the bottom against the bottom of the teacup back, and make the top overlap the tea.

Thread your needle with a color that matches or complements the teacup.

11. Sew together the teacup pieces around the outside edge (bottom and sides). Make sure to attach the handle as you go around that side.

12. Leave the top open for now.

13. Place the other end of the yarn from the tea bag between the tea and the back of the teacup. Thread the needle with a color similar to the tea.

14. Sew the tea to the back of the teacup, making sure to attach the strand of yarn in middle.

There you go – your teacup bookmark craft is comlete!! Use the yarn to mark your place in a book, with the tea bag tag hanging out one end and the teacup on the other. When you’re ready to keep reading, just tug on the tag like you would when making real tea!

Download your Teacup Bookmark Template:

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Teacup Bookmark Craft appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Last year, while browsing the Dollar Tree, I bumped into the hula hoops which looked like they were large enough for… a one year old? But they were the perfect size for making a DIY hula hoop wreath!

It’s a large statement for a front door, but small enough to still fit on my oddly slim 1930’s single door too (they were built for horses and buggies it seems).

And it makes a gorgeous table centerpiece – just cluster some pillar candles in the center!

I made these as a fall wreath because I used fall flowers (yes, they were from the Dollar Tree too) but you can DEFINITELY make it for any season, of course.

Which flowers are best for a DIY hula hoop wreath

Something that’s important to know about faux flowers: it’s one of those “you get what you pay for” things. I got mine from the Dollar Tree because I was there (case in point: the hula hoop). Since you normally only see a wreath from afar it doesn’t really matter if your flowers look very fake.

But if you’re making these as a table centerpiece, you may want to opt for better flowers. I usually pick mine up from Michaels, and they often run sales. The quality of flower is definitely above and beyond – they look more real, are closer inspired to the real deal, have more color variation and shape variation like real flowers.

You’ll want a few bouquets in a cohesive color scheme. I went with burgundy, rust, and cream. You can get 5-10 varieties as long as you’re repeating the same 2-3 colors (and yes, you can vary the tone a bit).

Change up the scale a bit. Ideally, you have a few very large flowers, some medium sized ones, and loads of small ones to add dimension.

Look for flowers that can be pulled right off the stem and remain intact, and bonus points for those that’ll have usable leaves too (separate).

Using a hot glue skillet to make this (optional)

I crafted this DIY Hula Hoop Wreath using Surebonder’s hot glue skillet (they gifted it to me to share elsewhere) and I think it’s a great solution for this type of craft.

The skillet keeps the glue melted, and allows you to just dip your flowers and apply them to the wreath. You can get nonstick stirrers separately to help with application but you don’t need to.

It has variable heat settings and an on/off switch – just watch the edges – it’s hot.

I found that it helped me avoid the repetitive stress of the glue gun’s trigger with such a glue-intensive craft, and since the DIY hula hoop wreath doesn’t need precision in gluing, this really helped.

Otherwise, you can find my favorite hot glue guns for crafts here.

How to craft a DIY hula hoop wreath

The step by step process is written out with images/links here and repeated in a more printer-friendly “recipe card” at the end of this post.

Supplies

• Hula hoop – unless you have a huge place to hang it, aim for one on the smaller end. (Note: Dollar Tree has it seasonally)
• Faux flowers – I used about 12 small bouquets. Gauge this by having your hula hoop in-store, or you can do math!! based on the circumference of the hoop and the width of the flower heads (aim for 2-2.5 times to allow for some layering/overlapping)
• Glue gun – or hot glue skillet – see notes above
• Ribbon scrap for hanging (optional)

Process

1. Peel the outer decorative wrapping off the hula hoop if relevant, exposing the base hoop (this ensures that if any spaces show, it looks nice). If you can’t do this, you can spray paint your hoop instead.

Heat up your glue. Pull your first flower off the stem and dip the end in. I recommend holding the petals together to avoid them dipping in. If they dip a little, it’ll be fine – that part will likely stick to the hoop.

2. Place your flowers one at a time. Vary the scale. If you want a very balanced look, use a bouquet at a time starting with the largest, placing those at intervals, and create an imperfect pattern.

Keep placing flowers, ticking them between each other, overlapping them a bit, and making sure they look full until you’ve covered the front of your hula hoop.

3. Now pull off your leaves. Dip them and stick them on at intervals between flowers that can use a bit more green.

4. When you’re done, you may want to flip it over and see if there are any loose spots that need a bit more glue. Then, find a bare spot to loop a ribbon onto for hanging (skip this if using as a table centerpiece.)

You’ve successfully crafted a DIY hula hoop wreath!

How to Make a Wreath from a Hula Hoop

Print

Materials

• Hula hoop - unless you have a huge place to hang it, aim for one on the smaller end.
• Faux flowers - I used about 12 small bouquets. Gauge this by having your hula hoop in-store, or you can do math!! based on the circumference of the hoop and the width of the flower heads (aim for 2-2.5 times to allow for some layering/overlapping)
• Glue gun or hot glue skillet
• Ribbon scrap for hanging (optional)

Instructions

1. Peel the outer decorative wrapping off the hula hoop if relevant, exposing the base hoop (this ensures that if any spaces show, it looks nice). If you can't do this, you can spray paint your hoop instead.
Heat up your glue. Pull your first flower off the stem and dip the end in. I recommend holding the petals together to avoid them dipping in. If they dip a little, it'll be fine - that part will likely stick to the hoop.

2. Place your flowers one at a time. Vary the scale. If you want a very balanced look, use a bouquet at a time starting with the largest, placing those at intervals, and create an imperfect pattern.

Keep placing flowers, ticking them between each other, overlapping them a bit, and making sure they look full until you've covered the front of your hula hoop.

3. Now pull off your leaves. Dip them and stick them on at intervals between flowers that can use a bit more green.

4. When you're done, you may want to flip it over and see if there are any loose spots that need a bit more glue. Then, find a bare spot to loop a ribbon onto for hanging (skip this if using as a table centerpiece.)

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post DIY Hula Hoop Wreath appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Easy Apple Crafts for Preschoolers

Apples are a great craft theme for kids. They go perfectly with fall and back-to-school, but they can really be applied to any time of the year. They can be used to discuss nutrition, life cycles, and even colors. These 20 apple crafts for kids will offer all sorts of apple activities to keep kids busy. This post contains affilaite links.

1

Sensory Apple Crafts

Engage little ones' sense of touch with exciting textures and explore science with fizzing reactions and light play. These crafts are perfect for sparking curiosity and imaginative exploration.

2

Easy Tissue Paper Apple Craft

Photo Credit: www.darcyandbrian.com

Another activity great for younger ones, this tissue paper apple craft has multiple benefits. Kids can learn colors by sticking different colored tissue paper to the templates provided, working on letter recognition for the letter A, and developing fine motor skills with the gluing process. And the added fine motor and sensory benefit of (optional) crumpled tissue paper makes this apple craft for preschoolers a win.

Read More

3

Fizzy Apple Art For Fall

Photo Credit: littlebinsforlittlehands.com

Most people don’t realize how much potential baking soda and vinegar have. They can even be used for painting! Kids will love the crazy reaction and the amazing-looking apples that result - and learn a little science on the way.

Read More

4

Apple Suncatchers

Photo Credit: www.firefliesandmudpies.com

This apple craft involves a hot oven, so adult supervision is necessary. But kids can do most of the work themselves, and the suncatchers that result don’t look like anything else. They're so pretty! This is best done at home rather than in the classroom.

Read More

5

Creative Play Apple Crafts

Spark imaginative adventures with adorable apple puppets, playful pie creations, and story-inspiring characters. These crafts let kids bring their apple-themed ideas to life!

6

Free Printable Apple Puppet Template and Craft

Photo Credit: homanathome.com

This template makes adorable little apple puppets that kids can put together themselves. Who knows what sorts of adventures these little apple buddies will have once they’re done?

Read More

7

Apple Pie Craft: Paper Plate Craft for Kids

Photo Credit: alittlepinchofperfect.com

Paper plate apple pie crafts that are suitable even for very little ones? This is such a great idea. And it’s quick and easy, with almost no prep required.

Read More

8

Paper Plate Apple Craft for Kids

Photo Credit: www.mommymadethat.com

Kids will love this easy, super-cute paper plate craft. And the little worm poking out is sure to be a fast favorite. It has loads of personality and kids will enjoy playing with it when they're done.

Read More

9

Art Technique Apple Crafts

Introduce young artists to exciting techniques like stamping, weaving, and sculpting. These crafts help develop fine motor skills and artistic expression through fun apple creations.

10

Apple Stamping – An Apple Basket Craft for Preschool

Photo Credit: simplyfullofdelight.com

Speaking of keeping things simple, this apple craft couldn’t be more straightforward! The printable template makes setup a cinch, and you only need paint and apples for supplies.

Read More

11

Easy Fingerprint Apple Tree Art for Kids

Photo Credit: taminglittlemonsters.com

This apple craft has three stages. Print up the template, let kids paint the green leafy part, and then get to stamping red fingerprint “apples.” It’s so easy, they will want to make a whole orchard.

Read More

12

Paper Apple Weaving Craft

Photo Credit: www.artycraftykids.com

Paper weaving crafts are great for developing little hands. Kids have to pay attention and use fine motor skills to set these up just right. The apple template helps ensure that parents aren’t the ones doing all the work.

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13

Make Paper-Mache Apples With Kids for Fall Art and Play

Photo Credit: barleyandbirch.com

This project is the real deal: actual paper-mache apples. Kids will love gluing the paper down as the apples gradually take shape. A protip for smaller kids is to make most of the apples ahead of time and let them put on the finishing touches.

Read More

14

Apple Popsicle Stick Craft For Kids [Free Template]

Photo Credit: www.simpleeverydaymom.com

This apple popsicle stick craft lets kids work on gluing and painting skills. Plus the free template makes adding the cute faces a cinch.

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15

Felt Apple Pencil Topper

Create these adorable Felt Apple Pencil Toppers for the back-to-school season with a free template! These make the perfect teacher gift. It's a bit advanced sewing for preschoolers, but if you precut the pieces, they can assemble them with a bit of tacky glue - call it a win!

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16

Origami Apple - Beginner Origami

Make a simple origami apple craft using two simple shapes combined – the perfect Origami for beginners! Older preschoolers will learn to follow basic instructions in this craft - and it's a great entry-level into more "real" origami.

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17

How to make an Apple Core Craft

Make an easy apple core craft from popsicle sticks – an easy activity for back to school! Your little ones will love the quirky touches of apple cores. The shapes are super simple and great scissors skill-builders.

Read the Guide

18

Apple Craft for Kids: make an apple wall hanging

Make this fun apple craft for kids – a pretty wall hanging that will really make your house or classroom shine! It's quite simple for kids to make and uses really easy to find materials.

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19

Keepsake Apple Crafts

These adorable keepsakes preserve memories and add a touch of apple charm to any home.

20

Bushel of Thumbprint Apples

Photo Credit: www.ourkidthings.com

Here is one of those crafts that doesn’t need a template because it’s so easy. Kids' thumbprints make the perfect apples to fill these brown paper baskets.

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21

Apple Handprint Craft for Preschoolers

Photo Credit: familyfocusblog.com

Or for a more “handmade” look, try this apple handprint craft. A cut out handprint and paper plate make a perfect little apple craft.

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22

Super simple cutting activity for toddlers: 3D apple or pumpkin craft

Photo Credit: busybloomingjoy.com

This 3D apple craft is unique in that it was designed specifically for toddlers to handle it. It’s a great introductory cutting activity for them, and older kids will enjoy the process enough to want to participate, too.

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23

Johnny Appleseed Paper Plate Craft - Mom. Wife. Busy Life.

Photo Credit: momwifebusylife.com

Did you know Johnny Appleseed was a real person, not just a legend? It’s true. And kids can learn about what he did with this craft project that includes a printable template.

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24

3D Apple Basket Craft

Photo Credit: kidscraftroom.com

This apple basket craft is a fun option for kids’ craft projects. Taking things a little out into the third dimension makes it much more fun.

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I hope you enjoyed these apple crafts for preschoolers! Got any to add to the list? Comment below!

The post Easy Apple Crafts for Preschoolers appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Thanksgiving is such a wholesome holiday, and between the Fall harvest and the theme of thanks it presents excellent crafting opportunities! You can gift these bookmarks to people you feel thankful to, or make them to use for yourself while enjoying the seasonal designs.

Have fun choosing either classic Fall colors or your own creative twist to represent classic autumn treats – corn, pumpkin, turkeys, maple, and sunflowers. Then, consider writing a small note or word of inspiration on the back of your bookmark.

In an earlier post, we showed you how to easily make origami corner bookmarks out of any square piece of paper. Here, you’ll find templates and directions to decorate your corner bookmarks with autumn-themed pictures.

If you find you don’t need that many bookmarks, you can also use the templates for other autumn-themed projects – glue them onto cards, magnets, signs, whatever you think of.

Or, if you like the bookmark idea but want something simpler than origami – perhaps to craft with preschoolers – glue the designs onto jumbo craft sticks or even simply a rectangle cut out of cardstock.

To help them last longer and to add an extra shine, you might want to protect the designs using either a laminating machine or clear tape.

What you need

• Colored paper or cardstock
• Scissors
• Glue
• Pencil 
• Markers

How to make your own Thanksgiving bookmarks

1. Choose colored papers to use for your bookmarks. The template includes patterns for a turkey, pumpkin, maple leaf, sunflower, acorn, and corn, so think about what colors you would like to use for each of these items.

We’re going to start with the turkey design, so trace the turkey template onto the colored paper of your choice and carefully cut out the pieces.

2. Glue the smaller tail shape onto the bigger one.

The body and head of the turkey are one piece. Glue the beak onto the middle of the head part.

3. Glue the teardrop-shaped cutouts onto the tail.

4. Use markers to draw eyes on the turkey’s face, wings on the side of the body (as shown) and outline the whole body shape.

5. Prepare a few squares of paper to make the corner bookmarks (ours is about 6 inches squared). Use copy paper or something light enough to fold.

6. Follow these directions to fold the papers into corner bookmarks.

7. Glue the completed turkey design onto the triangle side of a bookmark.

Take the colored paper you chose for the maple leaf design. Trace the maple leaf shape from the template onto that paper and cut it out. Use a coordinating color of marker to outline the leaf shape and add vein details. Glue the maple leaf onto the triangle side of the next bookmark.

Similarly, trace, cut out and glue the designs for the rest of the items in the template to make a full set of Thanksgiving-themed bookmarks!

Download the Thanksgiving Bookmarks

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The post Thanksgiving Bookmarks (Free Templates) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Get ready because we’re about to combine two of my favorite things – Thanksgiving and fuse beads! These Thanksgiving fuse bead templates take things to the next level.

If you’re not already familiar with fuse beads – otherwise known as Perler beads or Hama beads, you’re in for a real treat. And if you are already into fuse beads, you probably never thought of using them with this twist – read on!

I love Thanksgiving because really, everyone can find something to be thankful for, and what could be more positive and enriching than recognizing this and expressing it? Gratitude is an extremely healthy thing, and we’d do well to spend more than one season focusing on it.

In this craft, you’ll be creating fall-themed napkin rings that will make a great accent on your Thanksgiving table – or someone else’s. These would make a great host/hostess gift if you’re joining someone else’s feast, or a perfect table decor if you’re the one serving. 

And if you’re not having a feast this year, you can use them any time to take your table setting to the next level. The designs inspired by fall leaves, pumpkins, and corn can easily complement any other seasonal decor. You can make some of each design, or if you have a favorite you can just copy that one multiple times to make a full set.

Now, on to fuse beads. Whether following a pattern or making up their own, fuse beads can keep kids busy for hours. They love the way the little pieces come together to make intricate designs. \

I actually find it quite relaxing myself, and have joined my kids in this activity more than once (check out these cool fuse bead keychains, for example, made using Flycatcher’s Smart Pixelator!)

The supplies aren’t very expensive, especially compared to the amount of time and activity you get out of them, so this is a really easy hobby to try out. While there are very economical huge assortments of beads available, for this craft you might want to look for packages of specific colors since you’ll be using a lot of the same few colors. Of course, you can also decide to vary your colors beyond what’s used here.

Fuse beads are amazing for fine-motor exercise. The beads are very small so this is a good pick for older kids or those with more refined skills. You can either use fingers or a tweezer to position the beads – both will engage different types of grasping and pincer grip skills. My kids actually prefer to use some of each; this helps them not to get tired too quickly.

Copying a pattern with the beads, like you’ll do for this craft, adds another level of hand-eye coordination and working memory practice. For those who have difficulty copying from one place to another, you can use transparent bead trays and lay it directly on top of the pattern so copying is not needed. Just make sure to print the Thanksgiving fuse bead templates at 100% scale.

The final steps of this project require you to apply heat and then reshape the beads while still very hot, so if you have kids making the pattern you’ll want to engage a grownup to finish it off – I recommend using heat-resistent gloves for this!

I have written the directions according to what usually works for fuse beads, but depending on the brand of beads you’re using, it might come with different recommendations for ironing. Check the package your beads came in to see if their instructions are different. They’ll all be fairly similar but may require slightly different times or levels of heat for the best results.

And here we go – let’s make napkin rings from this Thanksgiving fuse bead template!

How to Assemble the Thanksgiving Fuse Bead Templates

Supplies

• Fuse bead peg board (at least 29×29 pegs; about 5.7” square)
• Fuse beads (5mm – standard size) in fall colors
• Fuse bead paper or parchment paper
• Iron (I keep a mini one dedicated for crafting)
• Small drinking glass or other heat-safe cylinder
• Template – download and print at the end of this post.
• Optional: needle and thread

Making the napkin rings

1. Print the template. If you’re planning to place your bead tray directly onto the pattern, make sure to print it at 100% scale and print a copy for each person doing the craft.

Optional but recommended: If you’re using an assorted collection of beads, sort out a bunch of yellow, orange, red, brown, and green beads.

2. Using the dots on the template as a guide, copy the design by placing beads onto the little pegs. You can copy by matching the pattern, or you can lay your tray on top of the pattern sheet and place the beads directly on top of each colored dot as shown.

3. When all the beads are laid out, carefully cover them with a piece of fuse bead or parchment paper. It is helpful to cut the paper down to a size just a little larger than the peg board.

Preheat the iron to a medium setting, or the level indicated by the instructions on your bead package.

4. Place the iron carefully on top of the paper. Apply very gentle pressure while moving it in small circles to heat the entire project evenly. Do this for 30 seconds OR as indicated by the instructions on your bead package.

5. Gently lift a corner of the paper. Observe if the tops of the beads have become stuck together. If they seem loose, put down the paper and repeat the ironing for another 10 seconds, and check again.

When the tops of the beads seem to be stuck together, turn the project upside down and carefully lift off the peg board.

6. Cover the exposed side of the pattern with another sheet of the paper. Iron it the same way you did the first side. When done, the beads should be firmly fused together.

7. Immediately, while the beads are still hot and soft, keep them between the sheets of paper and wrap it around a glass so that the designs form three bands around the glass. Hold it in place until the shape is set.

8. Gently peel off the paper.

At this point, you can leave the napkin rings as they are, or sew the ends together. If you wish to sew them together, use a needle to widen the holes in the last row at each end of the design (this will be easier while it is still warm). When it finishes cooling, use a strong thread to sew the ends together.

Download the Thanksgiving Fuse Bead Template

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

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