A DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain is one of those tiny projects that makes everyday life feel a little more hands-free. A wristlet keychain is a short leather loop that slips over your wrist, with your keys attached at the end, so your hands stay free while you juggle coffee, kids, groceries, or all three.

It also makes keys just plain easy to find. Instead of fishing around in a bottomless bag, you’ve got a loop you can grab in one second. And because it looks polished (even when it’s made from scraps), it’s a sweet, practical gift that doesn’t feel last-minute.

If you’re new to leather or faux leather, don’t stress. This is a no-sew project that uses basic tools and scrap materials. You’re basically cutting a strip, folding it, and crimping hardware in place. It’s beginner-friendly and budget-friendly, I promise.

Before you start, choose a design that fits your hand and your hardware

The best wristlet keychain is the one that feels good on your wrist. Too small, and it’ll pinch, or won’t slide on easily. Too big, and you might just lose those keys. The “sweet spot” is usually a loop that slips over your hand without effort, then sits comfortably at your wrist.

Here’s the simple way to think about sizing: Start from your bangle size. Then, add a couple of inches. If you like it roomier (or you want it to slide on fast), go a bit larger.

Your hardware choice changes the whole build, too. A classic key ring is sturdy and simple. A swivel clasp (like I used) is great if you want to clip it onto a bag strap or switch key sets. Choose this if you’re selling your final product.

Leather thickness matters more than you might think. Stiff, thick leather can feel uncomfortable. If you’re working from a scrap bag, that’s fine. Just match your plan to what your leather can comfortably do. For mine, I chose two pieces of fun, colorful, and super soft leather. For more scrap-friendly ideas, this list of leather scrap crafting inspiration is full of quick wins.

Picking the right leather (scraps are perfect)

For beginners, look for leather that folds without cracking. You’ll usually run into two types: vegetable tanned leather (often stiffer and better for stamping) and chrome-tanned (often softer and more flexible); PVC or PU leather sheets make a great flexible alternative. Either can work here, as long as it bends nicely.

A good thickness range for this project is about 2 oz to 5 oz (roughly 0.8 to 2 mm). Very thick leather can be frustrating because it may not fit into standard ribbon crimps, and it can leave bulky ends.

Quick test: fold a corner over with your fingers. If it creases neatly and doesn’t show tiny cracks, it’s probably a good candidate.

How to size your strap so it feels good on your wrist

Measure around the widest part of your hand (usually over your knuckles with your thumb tucked in), or measure the loop size you want. Add a little breathing room, about 1-2 inches, so it slides on easily.

Add another half-inch for the hardware.

Example: if you want an 10-inch finished loop, cut about 10.5 inches of leather (then you can trim a touch shorter before crimping if it feels oversized). It’s easier to shorten than to magically add length, so don’t cut too aggressively at the start.

Hardware options and what to buy if you are new

The easiest hardware for a no-sew leather wristlet keychain is a ribbon crimp (also called a ribbon clamp), though advanced makers might prefer a saddle stitch using waxed thread. The width of the crimp should match the width of your leather strip. If your strip is 1 inch wide, buy a 1-inch crimp. The thickness matters too, since some crimps are shallow. You can also get dedicated key fob hardware.

If your crimp cuts it a little narrow, you’ll be able to work with it, by try to get as close as you can.

For the key attachment, you can use key fob hardware like a split ring, a lobster clasp, or a swivel clasp. A jump ring is optional, but handy if you want a little extra movement between parts.

Two mistakes to avoid: buying a crimp that’s too small (it won’t close cleanly), and using a flimsy key ring that bends open over time.

Tools and setup tips that make the project look clean

A clean result comes from two boring things that help a lot: a steady surface and a straight cut. Set yourself up at a table with good light, and put down a cutting mat. Leather can shift while you cut, so it helps to secure it with masking or blue painters tape and take your time.

You don’t need fancy leather tools to make a wristlet that looks giftable. At a basic level, you’ll want a ruler, a sharp blade, and pliers. That’s it.

If you enjoy the process and want to upgrade later, there are some nice extras: a strap cutter for perfect strips, a mallet if you decide to stamp the leather, a hole punch (useful if you ever add rivets), and edge paint or burnishing supplies. Even a tiny bit of leather conditioner can make scraps look richer.

One safety note from someone who’s cut “just one more strip” while tired: keep your fingers out of the cut path, and use slow, controlled pressure. Leather is tough, and blades slip when you rush.

If you want to see ribbon crimps used on a leather project in a slightly different way, this magic leather braid bracelet tutorial is a great visual reference for how crimps should close.

Cutting safely and getting straight edges without special tools

Tape the leather down to your cutting mat so it can’t wiggle. Use a rigid metal ruler if you have one, since plastic rulers can get nicked by blades. For even easier straight edges, try a rotary blade if available.

Make light passes with your craft knife instead of trying to cut through in one go. Think of it like slicing a bagel, gentle pressure, repeat, and you get a cleaner edge. Keep your non-cutting hand well away from the ruler edge. You can also score it with the ruler and finish the cut with scissors, but work slowly, with very sharp scissors if you do it like this.

Easy finishing touches that upgrade the look

Round the corners with scissors if you want a softer, store-bought feel. Rub the edges briskly with a cloth to smooth fuzz, then add a tiny dab of leather conditioner and buff it in. For a pro touch, run an edge beveler along the edges before burnishing them smooth.

If you have edge paint, use it, but don’t feel like you need it. A neat cut and rounded corners already do a lot.

How to make a DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain

This is the part that feels like magic. You start with a plain strip, and a few minutes later you’ve got a wristlet keychain you’ll use every day. Go slow on the cutting, and take two seconds to check the loop size before you crimp it shut. That tiny pause saves a lot of frustration later.

Supplies Needed

• Leather scraps (I’ve found good packs of this at Michaels and Blick)
• Cutting mat
• Cricut Maker – just make a rectangle to your chosen dimensions in Cricut Design Space (optional for precise digital cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Strong grip mat (for stabilizing leather during Cricut cutting)
• If cutting with a Cricut: Knife blade
• Masking tape
• Rigid ruler
• Craft knife or rotary cutter
• Ribbon crimp (to match the width of your wristlet keychain) or dedicated key fob crimps
• Key fob hardware (key ring or clasp)
• Pliers – you can get specialized key fob pliers with crimps or just use chain nose pliers (for secure assembly of ribbon crimps)
• Optional: jump ring (additional key fob hardware), edge finisher, heat transfer vinyl, EasyPress Mini, etc.

Watch the Video

Watch the full-length video on YouTube if you prefer to learn that way! Or scroll down for written instructions with photos.

Step by Step tutorial

1. Choose a ribbon crimp that matches your strap width and has enough depth for your leather thickness (test-fit the leather inside before cutting everything).

2. Tape leather scrap to cutting board (or strong grip mat if using Cricut Maker).

3. Use ruler to cut to size (1 inch by the circumference of your final strap, plus half an inch); or send an SVG file through Cricut Design Space.

4. If your knife isn’t sharp enough to go through on one run, you may want to score it and finish the job using scissors.

5. Cut the corners a bit if needed to fit the ribbon crimp. Optional: Decorate the strap with heat transfer vinyl using an EasyPress Mini, or stamp it, before assembly.

6. Connect two ends with a ribbon crimp and attach the key fob hardware.

7. Before you fully flatten the crimp, slip the loop over your wrist to check the fit, then squeeze the crimp firmly with pliers until it feels solid and doesn’t gap.

Conclusion

A DIY leather wristlet keychain is one of those quick projects that feels like a little victory. It’s fast, forgiving, and a smart way to use scraps that would otherwise sit in a drawer. You’ll end up with something that’s actually useful, which is my favorite kind of making.

Once you’ve got the basic version down, try small upgrades: add a tassel, use leather letter stamps for initials, color edges with sharpie markers, or switch hardware colors (gold, silver, black) to match your bag. For care, keep it as dry as you can, and condition lightly if it starts to look brittle.

Make a second wristlet keychain while your tools are already out; it’s the easiest way to build a gift stash. If you want another keychain-style idea, grab leather needles and a stitching pony for sewn leather goods; or if you’re not up to that, this personalized leather keychain tutorial is a fun next project to try.

The post DIY Leather Wristlet Keychain (No-Sew, Beginner-Friendly) appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Of all the things I’ve engraved, leatherette is a favorite. It gives a luxurious vibe and allows you to craft some really nice gifts and easy sales items.

In this post, I’ll be teaching you everything you need to know about laser engraving leatherette! At the end of this post, I share with you the files I used in this project (which I created specially for it) – including the Super Mom Vibes SVG, the floral pattern on the bracelet, and the files for the cord taco and leather band bracelet.

To teach you about laser engraving leatherette, I used my F1 Ultra. You can read my review of the F1 Ultra here. This post will show settings for that machine; however, many of my settings were xTool defaults – which means you can just use their default settings for YOUR machine if you’re an xTool user.

And finally, you can also read my full comparison of xTool F1 vs. the Ultra here.

Laser Engraving leatherette – two types!

There are two main textures of leatherette that I’ll show you here: standard faux leather and suede.

Laser engraving textured leatherette blanks

To show you how to engrave on faux leather, I used laser engraving blanks. The main difference between that and using yardage of faux leather is that blanks will usually have an under-layer that is a specific color. When you engrave it, you’re removing the top coat to reveal a specific color – in this case silver.

There are advantages and disadvantages to this. The main advantage is extremely predictable and replicable results. That makes it perfect for fulfilling bulk orders with consistent outcomes.

The downside is that it can almost look like you took a marker to it! It doesn’t give you the more authentic “stained leather” look.

There are so many leatherette blanks out there – just keep your eyes open for which color you’re engraving to with those, and choose accordingly!

Laser engraving faux suede sheets

The other material I’m approaching is faux suede sheets. As you can see, you can engrave a subtle texture that’ll remove the top suede layer to reveal what’s underneath.

Sometimes that’s a bit unexpected – and that’s why you always want to test!

On this faux suede that I used, I got a subtle yellow look. I actually really like it – though I’d envisioned a slightly darker brown. Playing around with settings and trying test grids will get you the results you really want when laser engraving leatherette, and it’s always advisable to do that.

If you’re engraving a decorative pattern, subtle color-on-color results look really fabulous. If you’re engraving a name, quote, or specific imagery, you may want something darker. Play around!

Laser cutting leatherette

While this post does focus on engraving, I did create actual projects to show you too. And once I was at it I figured – why not address a common issue I see in laser groups – how to get rid of the char marks! This is especially pronounced when you have a specific texture you want to highlight.

Troubleshooting char marks

The going advice for avoiding char marks is always going to be to mask it. That is, you’ll want to cover your piece with masking tape so that any soot caused by the engraving falls on the tape.

In the image below, the bracelet on the right was masked. The cord taco on the left wasn’t.

Masking is always a good idea when you want professional, polished results. While some materials can be scrubbed clean, this leatherette is much more porous and post-processing didn’t really rid me of char marks.

The issue you may run into is with the engraved texture. That throws a curveball into the masking process. You need to engrave, remove it, and only then mask. So you can’t cut the pattern to fit only where you’re cutting, as you’re moving the material in between.

The best solutions would be:

1. Either engrave a full pattern into your whole sheet. I don’t like doing this as I may end up wasting material.
2. Or, engrave with overlap and be very careful with your masking that you’re noting where the engraving is.

Masking does, however, eliminate the char marks, leaving only slight darkening on the cut lines (which actually looks fabulous).

More tips and tricks

There are other things to keep in mind when cutting leatherette – and also when engraving it. Here are a few additional tips:

1. The most important thing is to know your material! If you are not cutting laser-specific materials, look for PU leather. Never laser cut or engrave PVC as it releases toxic gases. Your best bet is to buy materials marked for laser crafting.
2. When possible, tape your material in place, especially if cutting from smaller pieces. Since it’s a very lightweight material, any blowing on the part of your fan or ventilation method can make it shift.
3. It can cause quite the fumes, so ventilate properly! I HIGHLY recommend xTool’s SafetyPro AP2 Air purifier – it turns on automatically to the right levels based on what you’re cutting, and it’s very effective.
4. Make sure that if your machine isn’t fully enclosed, you wear protective goggles. I run into this when working with larger pieces of material.
5. Test grids are your best friend! If you need very specific results, do a test grid. Leatherette varies so widely by brand, type that you can’t really rely on other people’s settings fully.

Cool Ideas for laser engraving leatherette

To complement these tips, I figured I’d share some favorite leatherette items that you can craft and engrave!

Favorite blanks to customize

Customizing blanks is a great way to build or scale a craft or customization business. You can create in bulk and take larger orders, as the bulk of your time will be setup!

Here are some ideas for laser engraving leatherette blanks:

• Hat patches like the one pictured here are SUPER popular
• Notebooks and journals with PU covers are an upscale pick
• Customize PU fashion blanks like handbags, totes, wallets…
• Bookmarks – especially magnetic and corner bookmarks!
• Keychains – leatherette keychains are quite upscale, but go a step further and laser engrave airtag holder keychains!

Cool things to cut, engrave, and craft

Instead of just customizing existing blanks, try cutting your own. This approach is better if you’re selling as more of an artisan rather than just doing customization work. It’s also the perfect approach for hobby crafters (like me!).

1. Cord tacos – those are little taco-shaped (or similar) wraps that go around cords to contain them.
2. Bracelets and wristbands – you’ll get the files for these two in your download.
3. Wristlets/key rings – these are longer straps that connect at the end back-to-back instead of overlapping (like a bracelet). Attach a keyring at the end to hold keys!
4. Earrings – these are still quite popular – be creative with your shapes.
5. Bows – leatherette bows are SO cute and I’ve made so many for my daughter! The ability to engrave your own designs onto them gives you a leg up on the competition!
6. Wallets – if you’re more proficient at crafting, try cutting and engraving custom wallets!

If you’re looking for more laser tips, read my guide to which colors acrylic can a diode laser cut and then check out these super fun wood and acrylic earrings!

How to Laser Engrave Leatherette – step by step

You’ll need

• A Diode laser (such as the xTool F1 Ultra)
• Safety protective goggles
• Leatherette patches or faux Suede fabric
• If cutting: masking tape
• For finishing the cord tacos and bracelet: stud rivets

Step by step tutorial

Laser engraving leatherette patches (or blanks)

1. Place your leatherette patch on the bed of the laser. (You don’t need the cutting panel for this one). Line up the blue and red lights to focus your laser.

2. Take a snapshot of your background and upload your design. Resize it to fit and “frame” to make sure it’s right.

3. Set your settings. Mine is a 20 watt diode laser at power 70%, speed 1500 mm/s, 1 pass, 120 lines per cm.

4. Hit process and watch it work (through protective gear!)

Laser engraving and cutting faux suede cord tacos and bracelets

1. Upload your designs and separate them into appropriate layers. You can cut the engraving pattern down to go over your cut layers only, but you’ll need to be more careful to get it right while cutting, since you’ll need to remove your engraved suedette to mask it.

Place your design.

2. Focus your laser on the leather. You DO want it on the cutting panel now.

3. Set the ENGRAVE layer as “output” and uncheck output on the CUT layers. To engrave, I used 60% power, 1750 speed, 1 pass, 300 lines per cm.

4. Hit process. When it’s done, remove your design from the machine.

5. To ensure I can see where my design is, I cut out the piece that I engraved to the end of the engraving (I made sure it was larger than the space I need.)

6. Mask it on the engraved side.

7. Set your cut layer to output and disable the engrave one. Settings on this one are power 70, speed 100, 2 passes.

8. Since it’s such a small piece, I recommend taping it down on the base. Make sure you’re still focused and frame your design.

9. Cut your design.

10. Remove the masking tape carefully, attach a clasp and enjoy!

I hope you enjoyed learning everything you need to know before laser engraving leatherette!

Download your free SVG files for laser engraving leatherette

To download, fill out the form below. You’ll be signed up for our free newsletter – unsubscribe at any time in the footer of the emails. I respect your privacy and the law and won’t share your information with anyone.

The post Laser Engraving Leatherette – Tips, ideas, & free files! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

While I’ve shared in the past how to make small thread tassels, as well as a yarn tassel garland, leather tassels are quite different.

Instead of tying off a bundle of string, you are rolling up some fringe. But how do you do it exactly? In this tutorial, I will show you how to make leather tassels that look beautiful and polished.

Leather vs. Faux Leather

Leather is one of my favorite materials to make tassels from, mainly because of how many options there are for material variations.

First, let’s talk the base.

The dark silver leather that I used here is actually felt-backed faux leather. It’s a thick material with a fabric-like quality.

The green one is made from genuine leather – a pretty thick scrap sheet. I like to purchase my leather for small projects in scrap packs. I can then go and choose a favorite one for each project I choose to make. You can see that it’s stiffer than the faux leather, and doesn’t flair out as much.

Each type of leather or faux leather that you choose for your leather tassel can have a different result! Some faux leathers are paper-like, and you’ll need to cut them into tiny fringe to have any “movement”. You’ll need much more to make a thick roll.

So, as you learn how to make leather tassels, you WILL want to experiment and see what works best size-wise and lengthwise for your material.

How to make leather tassels with different types of trim

You’ll also see that I finished off the leather tassels in this post using different materials. One of the fun parts of leather tassel making is that you can really play with your accent materials, getting a gorgeous multi-textured result that is so not boring!

It’s one of the more creative materials to use for tassels, since you can combine it and make it a beautiful craft on its own.

On the green “real” leather tassel, I used off-white lace ribbon to trim out the top. I used thin ricrac trim in a similar color to make the loop. It looks just fabulous. I used a different material (not leather) for the loop, since my leather was pretty stiff, and I wanted the loop to be a bit softer.

The different fabrics soften the look of leather and make it a bit shabby chic, but without losing its class.

On the dark silver faux leather tassel, I used studded leather trim.

It gives the metallic base a glamourous finish, with the very white leather and the gold studs.

I made the loop from the same faux leather, as it’s very strong, flexible, and gives things a cleaner look. I did not measure well, and my final tassels have slightly different sized loops.

How to use the leather tassels

I stuck the green pair on a keychain and attached it to my handbag, to dress it up a bit. You can make these in small for jewelry, in large for home decor like curtain ties, and in between for handbag bling!

I like to add leather tassels to my acrylic keychains that I make with my Cricut. While the keychains I use come with leather tassels, these are much more unique and would make them even more special.

Whatever you’re learning how to make leather tassels for, don’t forget to allow yourself to be creative and experiment! This is just the project for that!

What you need to make leather tassels

• Leather scraps or faux leather sheets

• Good scissors

• A ruler and chalk to mark (or a washable fabric marker works if your material is light colored)

• Hot glue gun – check out my best hot glue guns for crafts here.

• Trim: studded leather trim, lace ribbon, ricrac all work

How to Make Leather Tassels – Step by Step

Watch the video or scroll past for written steps with photos:

1. Measure a length of leather about 5 inches wide and the height you want your tassel to be (mine is about one inch)

2. If you want, you can mark the increments that you want your fringe to be cut at. You really don’t need to – it won’t be too hard to be consistent with sizing, and it’s forgiving.

3. Mark the spot that you’ll be cutting until. You’re making this the distance from the top that you want your connected top “trim” portion to be.

4. Cut your fringe.

5. Glue one one side of the loop to the edge of the top part of the fringe. This will be your starting point for rolling up your tassel.

Fold it over and glue to form a loop.

6. Start rolling your tassel, keeping the top edge as aligned as possible and gluing as you go along (I try to glue once or twice on each layer). Don’t glue too much as you’ll end up with some bulk from the thick glue.

7. Keep going until you reach the end and secure with glue just at the top level, not where the fringe is.

8. Attach your trim. I recommend keeping the “seam” of your trim (where it stops and starts) aligned with the seam of your rolled fringe.

9. My leather one was cut to 3.5×1.5 inches , with a half inch top portion. I free-formed the fringe, cutting it very small. I’m showing this mainly to showcase the variation, that you can really experiment! The loop ribbon was cut to 3 inches.

You have successfully learned how to make leather tassels! What will you be using yours for? Comment below!

How to Make Leather Tassels

Print

Materials

• Leather scraps or faux leather sheets
• Scissors
• A ruler and chalk to mark (or a washable fabric marker works if your material is light colored)
• Hot glue gun
• Trim: studded leather trim, lace ribbon, ricrac all work

Instructions

1. Measure a length of leather about 5 inches wide and the height you want your tassel to be

2. If you want, you can mark the increments that you want your fringe to be cut at. You really don't need to - it won't be too hard to be consistent with sizing, and it's forgiving.

3. Mark the spot that you'll be cutting until. You're making this the distance from the top that you want your connected top "trim" portion to be.

4. Cut your fringe.

5. Glue one one side of the loop to the edge of the top part of the fringe. This will be your starting point for rolling up your tassel. Fold it over and glue to form a loop.

6. Start rolling your tassel, keeping the top edge as aligned as possible and gluing as you go along (I try to glue once or twice on each layer). Don't glue too much as you'll end up with some bulk from the thick glue.

7. Keep going until you reach the end and secure with glue just at the top level, not where the fringe is.

8. Attach your trim. I recommend keeping the "seam" of your trim (where it stops and starts) aligned with the seam of your rolled fringe.

9. My leather one was cut to 3.5x1.5 inches , with a half inch top portion. I free-formed the fringe, cutting it very small. I'm showing this mainly to showcase the variation, that you can really experiment! The loop ribbon was cut to 3 inches.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to Make Leather Tassels appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Enjoy my in-depth review of the xTool F1 Laser engraver – including some material tests and settings! Also check out my favorite crafting gadgets. This post contains affiliate links.

Heads up: this review is long and in-depth so if you want, you can skip to your specific questions using the table of contents:

For the longest time, I wanted to upgrade my crafting capabilities with a laser engraver. My main issues: space and ventilation.

When xTool reached out to me to see if I’d like to review one of their machines, I was thrilled! The xTool F1 Deluxe Bundle was gifted to me, however, I am brutally honest in all my reviews, because I want your investment to make sense for you.

A laser engraver is a big investment that can bring an even bigger return on investment, precisely because it’s a bit less accessible to everyone than other crafting machines. Turning out quantity is also faster than with other crafts, with less time spent on assembly.

It is incredible what you can do, and I’m discovering more and more each day.

I chose the xTool F1 from their selection of machines, and you’ll shortly see why. I’ll share why this might be the correct option for you, and when it might not be.

Since I created this review, I also published an xTool F1 Ultra review – for those who want fiber laser capabilities, as well as a comparison of the xTool F1 vs F1 ultra side-by-side. Check those out if you’d like, or read on more for a thorough xTool F1 review.

Meet the xTool F1

The xTool F1 is a dual laser engraver that has two modes: red light – infrared, and blue light – diode. Each one works differently, and the combination allows you to engrave more materials.

It’s a portable model, with an enclosed engraving area, and loads of features, making it the ultimate laser-on-the-go. Think: craft fairs, events, and around the house use, with this lightweight and compact machine.

xTool F1 Review Summary

While it was designed with on-site craft show customization in mind, the xTool F1 is also the perfect choice for those who are short on space – like me! It’s a fabulous entry-level laser, a perfect choice for those who need a second option, and spot on for craft-show goers.

The xTool F1 is a galvo laser, which means that it’s super fast. That’s because instead of having a motorized laser head that moves around your projects, the laser is reflected onto your surface using mirrors. This is critical when doing on-location personalization with waiting customers – as is the enclosed work area.

The smaller surface area is expandable using accessories, and only limits the size you can engrave at once, not the end-project size. Meaning, you can do larger engravings piece by piece, such as a letter at a time on a large porch sign.

That means that for those who generally do small projects but want the capabilities to do larger engravings, this can still be the right machine for you (read on).

For a full-sized, fully featured laser engraver, the xTool S1 or P2 are probably better choices.

Dual lasers – infrared and diode – mean you can engrave more materials, and yes, I’ve provided lists below! The Infrared does a fabulous job on metals – including copper, sterling silver, gold, platinum, stainless steel, brass, and more.

The diode tackles most of the other materials, including woods, stone and brick, leather and some leatherettes, acrylic, and more.

How the xTool f1 works

The xTool F1 features a small engraving surface area, which is expandable using the slide extension – reviewed below. Place your project on the surface. Lower the head super easily using the dial on the side to focus on the project. Both the red and blue dots should be aligned to focus.

There is also an auto-focus feature.

Connect using your device and design using the free XCS app (desktop, mobile).

Frame your project – this lights up an outline on the surface. You have a choice of doing a rectangle of the farthest reaches of the design or an outline of the design itself. Send it to your xTool F1, push the dial (which is also a button) to engrave or cut.

The workspace insert is removable. That means that you can take the whole shebang, place it on a larger item, and engrave through the area of the hole, as I did with this cutting board.

You can also take it outside, and engrave your home address on the bricks on the front of your house. Engrave the paint off your car. Engrave a little graffiti on your wooden fence… You WILL need to have your device plugged in while you do this.

It comes with a triangular prism cutting panel to vent beneath your cut, so that you don’t destroy the base.

If you’re new to laser engraving, you’ll find that there is a huge learning curve to materials, settings, and how to do these things. xTool has a page with basic recommendations.

You’ll still want to run cut and engrave tests of your favorite materials so that you ultimately save time.

In the box

The xTool F1 comes with:

• The machine – fully assembled
• A “pegboard” style engraving surface that is removable, along with a positioner that screws in
• The triangular prism cutting panel
• Venting Hose
• Power, connectivity cables
• Manual
• A sample pack of materials

The xTool F1 comes very well packaged with well-engineered foam inside the box. I recommend saving this if you plan to carry it to craft shows – I think it’s the absolute best way to transport your machine. Tip: photograph where everything goes/how it’s packed as you unpack it to reference later.

Features & Specs

Specifications

Here’s a rundown of the dry features for you to reference.

Pros & Cons

Because a lot of the features have built in pros AND cons, I created this chart for you to see it visually, so that you can choose the laser that is best for you. I will elaborate on everything further down – this is for the benefit of those who want a quick list.

Favorite Features & Cool Stuff

I found xTool Creative Space, xTool’s native software, easy to learn, as an experienced Cricut crafter and graphic designer. I still prefer to design in Illustrator as there’s much more I can do there, but for quick projects and text-based customization, XCS is all I need.

The iPad app has the ability to freestyle write in it – I wish the Windows app had that too! Especially since it’s often used for onsite customization, it would be a shame not to have that. Surface computers are a popular choice for crafters and creators, and often an alternative to iPads for artists. Surface users expect to be able to do all the writing/drawing they need to on their devices. I’d love to see that feature come to Windows.

While you should still NEVER leave your machine unattended, the xTool F1 does have an auto shut off if a flame is detected. It’s nice to have that safety feature.

In addition, since it’s fully enclosed, with a laser-proof cover, you can watch your work. Keeping in mind that this is a device that you bring to work with on-site, it’s important not to allow your customers to blind themselves by looking at the laser.

While it doesn’t have a camera to show you where you’re placing your design (a feature that I imagine would majorly up the cost of the machine), you do have a live preview that shows you where your design is placed. You can nudge it on the screen to the right spot.

Of course, the biggest features are its space-saving design and portability, which is ultimately why I chose this one. It even has a carry handle, to make moving it less awkward.

The machine base has little screw holes in it, and a corner positioner so that you can place smaller, smoother items without experiencing shift. That means that you don’t need a jig for everything, and you can batch produce many things without any extras.

Overall, the xTool F1 looks sleek and modern, with intuitive handles, ease-of-use features, switches on the back, and even a “cheat sheet” sticker on the side of the machine. It has an emergency stop button on the left side of the machine.

And it can capture incredible detail when you use the right image and settings.

xTool F1 Accessories

With the F1, xTool sent me some add-ons that you can purchase with your laser engraver, or add on later. My reviews for these will be brief, but feel free to ask any questions – comment below or email me.

Slide Extension

The slide extension more than triples your work surface. This is most practical for when you want to make something larger OR when you want to batch process.

Your engraving speed will be slower, since the motor-free effect of the galvo laser is mitigated by the fact that the extension itself moves with a motor.

The surface is also a triangular prism surface ideal for cutting, and it includes a few slide-in clamps to help your materials and blanks stay in position. Setup took minutes as it was mostly assembled right out of the box.

DEFINITELY get it if you tend to process larger orders or batch process. I recommend it if you intend to engrave or cut larger items too.

RA2 Pro Rotary

The rotary extension is one that I need to learn about a LOT more. It’s got its own learning curve, loads of little features, and lots of functionality. I believe that it’s compatible with other laser engraver’s from xTool’s lineup so that is a huge plus.

The RA2 Pro basically rotates the item you’re engraving, so that you can get an all-around engrave. This allows you to engrave around a bangle bracelet or ring, or around a tumbler or ornament.

It definitely adds to the functionality for both jewelry creators and other crafters.

Set it up on the work surface, placing the insert next to the machine to stabilize it. Plug it into your machine. There is an optional support for the other side of your blank.

You can use the rollers that support the item on each side, or the chuck, which holds the item using tension. The chuck also comes with different attachments. The RA2 Pro rotary extension does require some assembly.

I don’t think it’s a must for jewelry creators unless you do a lot of personalization on rings and bangles – it is a MUST for tumbler creators. It adds an incredible amount of functionality for all crafters.

Desktop Air Purifier

One of my biggest hesitations with getting a laser engraver to begin with was the lack of an outer wall in my craft room. Laser engraving and cutting sets off smoke and fumes, and MUST be vented. And since I’m an asthmatic, it’s even more critical.

The desktop air purifier is not the best way to vent your fumes. The best way is outdoors. However, if you DON’T have that option, the desktop air purifier can be what allows you to own a laser at all.

I found it to work very well. It’s not perfect, but I do think of it as “good enough”. It connects to the air fan on the F1 (you can actually see the smoke being suctioned in) and purifies the air before allowing it out. It contains multiple levels of filtration, with a few replacements.

The replacement filters are pricey, but you can actually wash them out and reuse them a few times. Update – you can read my xTool SafetyPro series review for a less compact but more cost effective and better air purifier option!

So the purifier is a must for those without a way to vent outdoors, and a bonus for better filtration for those who can. I do have an air purifier in my craft room to help as well.

Setting it up was super easy – as easy as just attaching included ducts to the correct openings.

(Make sure you choose the deluxe bundle)

3rd Party Recommended Accessories

Here are some things that aren’t part of any packages but you’ll want to have for using with your xTool F1:

Laser Proof Goggles -Looking directly at a laser can be harmful to your eyes. While you might often work with the cover closed, you’ll also sometimes have it open (at the very least when working with extensions) and since this is basic safety, I wish it came by default.

Fire Extinguisher – Another thing to have handy for safety – just in case. I got a car sized one to keep in my craft room. I haven’t had to use it yet (and don’t plan to need to).

Digital Caliper – Not a must, but a fabulous tool for if you want precise measurements, especially on smaller jewelry items. I picked one up and I’m using it heavily.

Jigs – These can be super helpful when batch processing. Because of the removable base of the F1, you’ll find some that fit right in and make designing the same thing a breeze, using a template.

What can the xTool F1 Do?

To know if the xTool F1 is the correct machine for you, it’s important to understand from the start what it can and can’t do.

What can the xTool F1 engrave?

This is not going to be an exhaustive list (it can engrave over 300+ materials), because that would pretty much be impossible, but these are just some examples and popular materials to engrave. Keep in mind that each brand you buy from, each finish, each exact item is different from the next.

You’ll get to know the materials you like best, which work best, as you create.

• Stainless steel
• Sterling Silver
• Gold
• Platinum
• Copper
• Brass
• Coated aluminum
• Aluminum
• Opaque acrylics excl blue
• Slate
• Ceramic
• Paper
• Cardboard
• Chipboard
• Basswood
• Bamboo
• Leather
• PU Faux Leather
• Cured clay
• Some natural stones
• Brick

• Food (like macarons)

• Some fabrics like canvas and denim

xTool F1 Engraved Material tests

These are some of the materials that I tried the F1 on and how they performed.

Slate Coaster

The slate coaster that comes in the materials pack engraves beautifully. It’s a perfect starter project – and the first one I did with my machine.

Stainless Steel Jewelry

The ability to engrave jewelry is one of the big perks of the F1, and on-the-spot personalization of stainless steel blanks is a favorite craft show feature.

The Infrared laser allows beautiful metal engravings. The engraving is actually a marking and maybe a shallow etch – for a deeper engrave, you’d need a fiber laser (that costs many times the price of this one).

I tried it first using the recommended engrave settings on a medical bracelet and it made a decent mark. I then slowed it down and used the following settings on the heart pendant that came in my material sample pack: Power 100, Speed 5, and 300 lines per cm.

I got a beautiful black engraving. I will be personalizing LOTS more jewelry with this in the future!

You’ll want to do a test grid on any metals (and most materials you use) to get the look you like. You can even engrave in tinted color on metal by using a test grid to see the different effects of the different colors.

Black Cast Acrylic

Acrylic is another favorite material, and I hope to try more colors to test their engraving ability.

For now, I made simple stud earrings, engraving a rose (an xTool Creative Space included image) on it. xTools’ built-in settings for their acrylic worked beautifully. The detail is incredible.

Bamboo

I got my F1 around Hanukkah time and wanted a super easy gift I can whip out for EVERYBODY – that’ll feel special, cost very little, and be enjoyed by almost anyone of any gender or age.

I decided that fun little wooden pens with their names on them will do the trick.

Bamboo tends to have variations, and so the finish wasn’t very even, but I like the look. If you make it strong enough, it won’t matter.

I also engraved a cutting board to try engraving a larger item by removing the base plate and placing the whole machine on top of it.

Basswood

Basswood engraves much more consistently than bamboo (possibly because it’s unfinished). I made a dog tag shaped pendant to test it out, using patterns and shapes pulled from XCS.

It came out absolutely beautiful – it looks like a stain – as you can see, and I can’t wait to play with this more!

Metal Business Card

The sample pack came with something I didn’t even know exist before, but I’m super excited about as a graphic designer: metal business cards! These coated aluminum cards are super thin, and engrave beautifully.

And they’re not just for business cards!

I engraved a photo of my husband’s late grandfather on one to see the detail that the xTool F1 can engrave and it’s beautiful.

Leather

As a jewelry crafter, I HAD to play with leather. I took a piece of genuine leather from a scrap pack. It engraved very nicely. I will point out that leathers differ greatly from one another, and you’re probably best off testing small samples of any leather you plan to use.

I haven’t yet tried it with faux leather, as I’m not sure which type of faux leather my stash contains. The sample pack contains a faux leather patch, but since I don’t quite know what to do with it yet, I haven’t tested it.

Kraft Jewelry Box

Since I’m a jewelry crafter, I wanted to share specifically feedback on jewelry-style materials. I engraved a cardboard jewelry box I had hangin’ about. It did a gorgeous job. It’s a beautiful, organic way to customize packaging materials. And it goes pretty quickly. You can make yourself a jig for the lids, use the slide extension and do a few at once.

What can it NOT engrave?

The xTool F1 might not be your number one pick if you’re looking to engrave any of the following:

• Clear surfaces – both glass and clear acrylic aren’t considered engravable by this machine. However, there are hacks. I’ve seen people coat the glass or acrylic with a paint that can then be washed off. I haven’t tried this yet.
• Blue surfaces – The diode laser is the same wavelength – or close to – blue materials such as acrylic, so it absorbs the light. Once again, I wonder if painting it and then washing off the paint would work – I’d like to try that sometime as well.
• Toxic Materials – Such as PVC. Since it sets off fumes, these materials are not laser-friendly and should not be used, even with proper ventilation.

More ideas to engrave

While my list above focused on materials, I want to share some general ideas so that you can understand just how much you can craft with the xTool F1:

• Coins
• Tumblers
• Addresses on Brick Walls
• Canvas Artwork – either an outline to paint or a photo
• Cardboard notebooks – pair them with personalized pens!
• PU Leather jewelry cases, etc.
• Silicone watch bands, teethers, shallow molds
• Microfiber jewelry bags
• Coated ornaments
• Device cases
• Cutlery
• Pocket knives
• Scratch art paper
• Toast
• Cookies as a decorating template
• Cork trivets

What can the xTool F1 cut?

Once again, this is not going to be an exhaustive list, just top materials.

• Faux leather (PU not PVC)
• Colored acrylic
• Basswood
• Leather
• Cardboard
• Chipboard
• Paper

xTool F1 Cut Material tests

Black Acrylic

One of my favorite features of the xTool F1 is the ability to cut black acrylic. You need to make sure you’re getting cast acrylic for this.

The stud earrings that I shared my engraving for above were also cut with the xTool F1. The cut is clean and beautiful. Be aware that if you’re cutting too far from the center, something small like this, you’ll get a noticeable angled cut.

To cut acrylic, you need to remove the backing. Cutting without doing that will result in a flame and burning your acrylic.

Basswood

The dog tag necklace I shared above was also cut using the xTool F1. It’s very easy to get a small flame, and so you don’t want to leave your project in progress ever. However, there is automatic shutoff when a flame is detected.

3mm Basswood cuts beautifully when doing simple shapes.

As part of this post, I wanted to trial more complex shapes. It can definitely cut intricate shapes, however, I haven’t mastered the settings. A big part of doing this is getting the cut settings right, so that you don’t burn your wood too much.

I’ll update this post when I see that I’ve mastered the super-intricate cut, but for now, I’m very happy with its scoring, engraving, and simpler cutting capabilities on wood

Leather

Leather is one of the trickier materials for a simple reason: it varies so greatly – in size, weight, finish, etc.

I tried cutting a scrap of green leather. I’ll be honest, I don’t know that much about leather and if it’s sometimes coated with unnatural materials, but I was not happy with the fumes it set off. That says more about the leather than the laser.

I was, however, very VERY happy with the cut, so I’ll be trying this again with other leathers.

Cutting leather also made a small flame, so definitely supervise! It’s normal, and it is really just a tiny little flame that follows the laser as it cuts (and in fact is probably what was cutting the leather…)

Who should get the xTool F1?

The xTool F1 has its strong suits and its weaknesses. It can be the perfect first machine for some people and the perfect second machine for others. And some people will do better with the S1 enclosed Diode laser or the P2 CO2 laser. So who is it right for?

xTool F1 Review in a Nutshell

Let’s recap quickly. The xTool F1 can do a LOT and packs a punch for a machine of its size, however, it is limited in its size. For people who generally stick to projects in the scope of the F1 sizing it’s all you need. For those who are limited in space and might not otherwise be able to accommodate a laser, it is the solution you’ve been asking for.

For those who often do larger projects, the size limitations are not as efficient as full sized lasers such as the S1 or P2. For those who do tumblers, its’ very easy to use with the RA2 Pro rotary attachment. And for anyone who goes to craft shows, you’ll be ten steps ahead of the competition by being able to produce things on the spot.

Back in my craft show days, I made a critical mistake: I wanted to be able to keep my sample stock, so instead of bringing jewelry to sell, I brought “display pieces” to remake for buyers. I didn’t sell a thing. Buyers often buy on impulse, or value something they can go home with. They don’t want to make an extra stop, wait (or pay) for shipping. Sometimes they need the gift quickly.

While personalization is a bit different in that people expect wait time, it’s that much cooler to not have to have it. Your customers will be pleasantly surprised, not only to WATCH the personalization process through the laser-proof cover, but to actually go home with the custom piece.

For these reasons, I think it’s the perfect choice for jewelry makers – whether as a first machine or a second.

It’s fabulous for keychains, ornaments, wallets, and many, many other smaller items as well, but for jewelry crafters I think it’s spot on.

Here’s why I think it’s the best laser engraver for jewelry makers – hands down!

I think this is the perfect blend of laser features that jewelry makers need. The Diode laser allows you to cut popular jewelry materials: leather, PU faux leather, wood, acrylic – and the black acrylic looks so elegant in jewelry. The other colors it handles are just a perk (note: it does not handle all acrylics well, and definitely not clear or blue.)

The Infrared laser handles metal engraving like a champ and allows you to to personalized jewelry like name or initial jewelry, “mom” necklaces with kids’ names/birthdays, fan jewelry, medical IDs…

The speed, laser cover, and portability allow for onsite customization at craft shows and events (think: birthday parties, bar/bat mitzvahs, weddings).

And since the scale of jewelry is very small, even without a slide extension you’ll be able to batch produce some things. With the slide and the right jigs you can almost mass produce small items!

I love how the xTool F1 can be used for branding materials for businesses too. It’s a powerhouse tool for small businesses, especially jewelry businesses.

If you have any questions, hit me up in the comments or email me.

Got any questions on this xTool F1 review? Comment below and I’ll try to answer them asap!

The post xTool F1 Laser Engraver – Review & Material Tests appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Braided leather hoops are a fun trend in jewelry making – and they’re really, really easy. Spoiler: they’re not actually braided. They’re knotted.

First of all, you’ll want to check out this fun technique for cobra knotting string wrapped hoop earrings that I shared a while ago. This is a spinoff of that that creates what looks like a fun little “braid” on the side.

You can turn this “braid” in any direction you’d like. It can be placed on the inside of the hoop, the outside, or on one side – the right or the left. It all depends on the look you’re going for!

Which string is best to use to make braided leather earrings?

I tend to keep a well-stocked craft room and only occasionally purchase things special for posts. While making these braided leather earrings with the cheap faux leather lacing that I had handy, I realized how much better it would have come out had I used thick, soft genuine leather lacing.

It definitely works with the coarser stuff but would just be better with the real stuff.

I thought I had a pack handy and turned things upside down to find it. I didn’t want to delay this blog post. I just had to “leave good enough alone” and show you how to do it with the other stuff.

Then, I found some silk tube cording that was fabulous! It got me a similar result to leather but it’s so much more upscale! I decided to keep it understated and only braid the center portion and love how it worked out.

So you can see that you can learn how to make braided leather earrings to be sporty and casual, or elegant and upscale. It just depends on the string you use!

I also did give it a go with hemp cord, but that was very underwhelming, so I struck that from this tutorial.

What you need to make braided leather earrings

• Hoop earrings
• Flat leather lacing – the softer it is, the higher end earring you’ll make
• Krazy glue
• Scissors
• Loom band (one) or one rubber hair tie

How to make braided leather earrings

1. Create a knot and slide your hoop through at the earring point. Tighten the knot.

You can make sure that the leather cord doesn’t slide right off by placing a rubber loom band or hair tie around it as a stopper. (You’ll see a clothespin used in some of the process photos – it didn’t work as well as the loom band trick.)

2. Take your long string and forward knot it around the hoop.

3. Now backward knot it.

4. Keep alternating between forward and backward knots. You’ll see your braid beginning to form, while you also wrap your hoop. Try to keep the lacing as flat as you can for a neat, polished result.

5. When you reach the back clasp, glue your last knot that you did. Pull it as tight as you can before trimming. Glue your starting knot as well. Trim close to the knot.

You’ve nailed how to make braided leather earrings! Which color will you be making yours in? Comment below!

Fun Trendy Braided Leather Earrings

Print

Materials

• Hoop earrings
• Flat leather lacing
• Krazy glue

Tools

• Scissors
• Loom band (one) or one rubber hair tie

Instructions

1. Create a knot and slide your hoop through at the earring point. Tighten the knot.

You can make sure that the leather cord doesn't slide right off by placing a rubber loom band or hair tie around it as a stopper. (You'll see a clothespin used in some of the process photos - it didn't work as well as the loom band trick.)

2. Take your long string and forward knot it around the hoop.

3. Now backward knot it.

4. Keep alternating between forward and backward knots. You'll see your braid beginning to form, while you also wrap your hoop. Try to keep the lacing as flat as you can for a neat, polished result.

5. When you reach the back clasp, glue your last knot that you did. Pull it as tight as you can before trimming. Glue your starting knot as well.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

The post How to Make Braided Leather Earrings appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

For a while, I have on my “to craft” list to try making rolled leather beads. It’s one of those things that I figured would look so chic, but I just didn’t get to.

Table of contents:

• Tips and ideas for how to make leather beads
• Do you need a Cricut to make leather beads?
• Which glue should you use for gluing leather?
• What you need to make DIY leather beads
• How to make leather beads
• Making genuine leather beads
• Making faux leather beads

The cool thing about leather beads is that, while leather does not usually produce very minimalist results in jewelry making, leather beads are so classy and refined.

And the best part: you can use the tiniest of scraps to make this.

Tips and ideas for how to make leather beads

There are two types of leather beads featured in this tutorial:

• Genuine leather beads – I used scraps from Cricut genuine metallic leather for this. You can also use leather from scrap packs. You’ll want something thick, as these are made without overlapping. You want a bit of a surface to glue the two sides of your leather together.

• Faux leather beads – The reason that this is so different, is that no matter which faux leather you use, it’s most likely thinner and/or more fabric-like than genuine. I used Cricut’s very thin faux leather. To make these, I overlapped them twice. You’ll want to do the same if you’re using a more classic, thicker faux leather as it’s also less stiff. You can go paper bead-style on these as well, and cut them so that they’re tapered. I kept it consistent and simple.

Do you need a Cricut to make leather beads?

The short answer is, no.

You start with a basic, rectangular shape that you can make with a knife and ruler. However, it’s also very easy and clean to cut on your Cricut, if you have one, and a great practice leather project.

If your Cricut doesn’t cut all the way through, the scoring will still very much help. In fact, even when using a knife and ruler, I only scored it with that and completed the cut with scissors.

In addition, any imperfection will show. The Cricut Maker family, with the knife blade, get you a very clean cut. So while it’s not necessary, and might not be worth it if you’re only making a couple of leather beads for a small project (or using irregular scraps), if you’re making a lot of these, I’d definitely pull out the Cricut.

I created a “project” you can use in Design Space so you don’t need to set it up.

Which glue should you use for gluing leather?

The absolute best glue for a permanent bond in leather is contact cement. That’s what I used to make these.

To use contact cement, spread a thin layer using a paint brush you don’t mind ruining on each side you plan to glue. Let it sit according to package direction (about 15-20 mins) and then glue. It bonds immediately, but needs more time to fully dry.

When using a material like leather, that’ll resist the curling a bit, this quick cure time really helps.

I tried using other glues for this, namely Krazy Glue for the instant-bond quality. However, it absorbed into the leather too much and didn’t quite work.

With contact cement, you do want to make sure to keep things neat as it doesn’t look pretty if it shows.

Another option that I haven’t tried, that’ll likely work, is E6000. You will need to have a way to hold it together until it cures.

I used contact cement for the rolled faux leather beads too. You probably don’t need it for that, as it holds better on its own until it cures, due to the larger glued surface area.

Next time, when I’m only making those, I’d rather try E6000 or even Krazy Glue again.

What you need to make DIY leather beads

• Thick leather – I used Cricut’s metallic leather
• Or, faux leather – I used Cricut‘s
• Contact Cement
• Paint brush
• Jar with water (for genuine leather)
• 1/4 inch dowel (for faux leather)
• Clamp or clothespin (for genuine leather)

Hand cutting:

• Steel protected-edge ruler
• Self-healing mat
• craft knife
• Good scissors

Cricut cutting:

• Cricut Maker machine + knife blade + StrongGrip mat for genuine leather
• Cricut machine (any) + fine point blade + StrongGrip mat for Cricut faux leather
• Cricut Maker machine + rotary blade + FabricGrip mat for most faux leathers that have some stretch.
• Masking tape to tape down your leather helps in most cases.

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How to make leather beads

Making genuine leather beads

1- Cut your leather to the width you want by 1 inch using your preferred method (hand or machine). I made mine 1/2 an inch wide. If you’re using your Cricut to cut, you can customize or recreate this project.

2 – You may prefer to score it with your knife/Cricut and then finish cutting by hand.

3. Wet your leather thoroughly. I dropped each piece into a jar of water as I cut them.

4. Roll your leather beads so that the two edges will connect and clamp them to hold until they dry. Note: I recommend using something that won’t mark your leather. Larger, rubber edged clamps or something that’ll hold the whole thing with a flat surface will work better than mini clothespins.

5. When it’s dry, unclamp. Spread a thin layer of rubber cement on each edge. Allow it to cure for 15-20 minutes, or according to package instructions.

6. When cured enough, connect the two ends and hold in place for a second or two. Like magic, it’ll instantly glue! Follow package instructions for wait times before actually using.

I strung these on a finished rose gold chain for a gorgeous, minimalist necklace.

Making faux leather beads

1- Cut to size. The width (short edge) determines how wide your bead will be. These are 3/4 inch. Length should be about two inches.

2. Roll around 1/4 inch dowel and measure to make sure the size works. Mark the beginning of the overlap.

3. Place rubber cement on the two sides that’ll overlap. I placed mine standing up on the surface to cure for 15-20 minutes or according to package instructions.

4. When ready, roll around the dowel starting with the side of the strip that has glue on the right side and then continue with the side that has glue on the backing so that the two glue portions overlap. Continue rolling to form your bead. If your rolling isn’t perfect, you can trim the bead down as needed.

I strung my faux leather beads onto faux leather cording to make a wrap bracelet.

How to Make Rolled Leather Beads

Print

Materials

• Thick leather - I used Cricut's metallic leather
• Or, faux leather - I used Cricut's
• Contact Cement

Tools

• Paint brush
• Jar with water (for genuine leather)
• 1/4 inch dowel (for faux leather)
• Clamp or clothespin (for genuine leather)

Hand cutting:

• Steel protected-edge ruler
• Self-healing mat
• Craft knife
• Good scissors

Cricut cutting:

• Cricut Maker machine +
• knife blade +
• StrongGrip mat for genuine leather, or
• Cricut machine (any) +
• fine point blade +
• StrongGrip mat for Cricut faux leather, or
• Cricut Maker machine +
• rotary blade +
• FabricGrip mat for most faux leathers that have some stretch
• Masking tape to tape down your leather helps in most cases

Instructions

Making genuine leather beads

1. Cut your leather to the width you want by 1 inch using your preferred method (hand or machine). I made mine 1/2 an inch wide. If you're using your Cricut to cut, you can customize or recreate this project.

2. You may prefer to score it with your knife/Cricut and then finish cutting by hand.

3. Wet your leather thoroughly. I dropped each piece into a jar of water as I cut them.

4. Roll your leather beads so that the two edges will connect and clamp them to hold until they dry. Note: I recommend using something that won't mark your leather. Larger, rubber edged clamps or something that'll hold the whole thing with a flat surface will work better than mini clothespins.

5. When it's dry, unclamp. Spread a thin layer of rubber cement on each edge. Allow it to cure for 15-20 minutes, or according to package instructions.

6. When cured enough, connect the two ends and hold in place for a second or two. Like magic, it'll instantly glue! Follow package instructions for wait times before actually using.

I strung these on a finished rose gold chain for a gorgeous, minimalist necklace.

Making faux leather beads

1. Cut to size. The width (short edge) determines how wide your bead will be. These are 3/4 inch. Length should be about two inches.

2. Roll around 1/4 inch dowel and measure to make sure the size works. Mark the beginning of the overlap.

3. Place rubber cement on the two sides that'll overlap. I placed mine standing up on the surface to cure for 15-20 minutes or according to package instructions.

4. When ready, roll around the dowel starting with the side of the strip that has glue on the right side and then continue with the side that has glue on the backing so that the two glue portions overlap. Continue rolling to form your bead. If your rolling isn't perfect, you can trim the bead down as needed.

I strung my faux leather beads onto faux leather cording to make a wrap bracelet.

Did you make this project?

Please leave a comment on the blog or share a photo on Pinterest

What will you be using these leather beads for? Comment below!

The post How to Make Rolled Leather Beads appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

A few weeks ago, I shared some leather napkin rings, and before that, DIY leather bookmarks. Today, I have another incredibly cool (and easy) leather craft to share with you. And it’s one that you’ll love so much, you’ll want to share it with all your friends.

Table of Contents:

• Two ways to follow this magic braid leather bracelet tutorial
• Finishing off your bracelets
• What you need to make braided leather bracelet cuffs
• How to make a magic braid leather bracelet
• Cricut cutting instructions
• Hand Cutting Instructions
• How to make the bracelet

I have so many things to make with leather scraps on my to do list, but I knew I had to push to get these magic braid leather bracelets done!

Have you ever seen braided leather bracelets where the ends are a solid piece of leather and thought “how on earth??” The technique for creating these is so simple, prepare to have your mind blown.

All you need to do is start braiding, and every few overlaps weave the end through one of the holes to flatten it (exact instructions, including a printable “recipe card” below).

Two ways to follow this magic braid leather bracelet tutorial

I created two variations of magic braided leather bracelets in a beautiful hunter green and a sophisticated muted navy blue. Both of these were made using leather remnants from scrap packs I’ve purchased in the past from Blick and Michaels.

The blue one was made using a tighter braid. It was braided six times.

The green one was braided three times. This means that I did two overlaps before weaving the end through.

I cut this on my Cricut Maker, however you don’t need to. If you want to, you can simply recreate my project here (make sure to follow me once you’re at it!) If you don’t want to, simply make sure to cut very even, consistent sections on your bracelet base.

Finishing off your bracelets

I finished my bracelets off using ribbon crimps. For this reason, the leather need to be sized to the width of the crimps. I was slightly off in my measurements, so I rounded the ends with a pair of scissors.

You absolutely can go fancy with your ribbon crimps to add some style! I only picked up fancy crimps after I recorded this magic braid leather bracelet tutorial – that’s my plan for the next color I try.

And I did go fancy on the green bracelet, by adding a gorgeous bronze toggle clasp. The blue one features a classic lobster claw clasp with jump rings.

What you need to make braided leather bracelet cuffs

• Leather scraps at least 1.5×8 inches (room for error if cutting with a Cricut) or 3/4 inch by 7 inches (hand cut)
• Two one-inch ribbon crimps
• Clasp
• Chain nose pliers
• To cut it, either a ruler and craft knife, Cricut Maker with knife blade, or Cricut Explore or Maker with the deep point blade.
• Cricut accessories: brayer, StrongGrip mat, masking tape

How to make a magic braid leather bracelet

Cricut cutting instructions

1. Get my project in Design Space here. Make it or customize if you need to resize. Choose the correct leather weight and insert the correct blade.

2. Tape it down well around all the edges and adhere it well with the brayer. I like to put my leather upside down to preserve my mat. You can also back it with StrongGrip transfer tape. No need to mirror it if it’s upside down, as the cut is symmetrical.

3. Cut it!

Hand Cutting Instructions

If hand cutting and measuring, you may do better making it 3/4 of an inch. Measure 3/4 of an inch by roughly 7 inches and cut it out, using a steel ruler and knife to help you get a straight edge. You may want to simply score it with the ruler and continue cutting with scissors.

Cut two slits, leaving about 1/2 inch give or take at the ends. Make sure each section you create is precise so your braid comes out right.

How to make the bracelet

1. Attach a crimp to one end of the leather.

2. Start braiding. Place the right strip over the middle.

3. Then the left over the new middle.

4. Thread the end through the gap and straighten it. It’ll be twisted but that’s fine – you’re undoing that in the next round.

5. Go right over middle and left over middle.

Straighten it out

Keep repeating this process. As you go along, you’re making your braid a bit tighter than you want it to be so that you can thread through at the end. It should be pretty clear where you need to thread as you work. Do 3 rounds.

6. When you’re happy with the bracelet, loosen your braid and spread it out evenly across the bracelet.

7. Attach your second ribbon crimp to the end, as well as one side of your clasp. If you prefer, you can use snaps at the ends.

8. Attach the other clasp to your starter crimp.

To make the longer braid that looks more like a few interconnected strands, simply braid two and thread through fewer times.

You’ve successfully learned how to make a magic leather braid bracelet – and I hope you enjoyed!

If the tutorial didn’t feel obvious to you, don’t worry! This is one of those projects that almost teaches itself once you “get” the idea – you’ll see that it’s clear where you need to thread the end. And you can play around a little with different variations on this method.

How to braid exactly depends so much on the width of your bracelet, each portion, the length. Play around with braid 3 and braid 2 versions. You don’t damage the materials as you play!

Magic Leather Braid Bracelet Tutorial

Learn how to make a magic leather braid bracelet - one of those jewelry crafts that you won't be able to get enough of!

Print

Materials

• Leather scraps at least 1.5x8 inches (room for error if cutting with a Cricut) or 3/4 inch by 7 inches (hand cut)
• Two one-inch ribbon crimps
• Clasp

Tools

• Chain nose pliers
• Cricut Maker
• Knife blade
• Brayer
• StrongGrip mat
• Masking tape
• Project in Design Space
• Ruler
• Craft knife

Instructions

Cricut cutting instructions

1. Get my project in Design Space. Make it or customize if you need to resize. Choose the correct leather weight and insert the correct blade.

2. Tape it down well around all the edges and adhere it well with the brayer. I like to put my leather upside down to preserve my mat. You can also back it with StrongGrip transfer tape. No need to mirror it if it's upside down, as the cut is symmetrical.

3. Cut it!

Hand Cutting Instructions

If hand cutting and measuring, you may do better making it 3/4 of an inch. Measure 3/4 of an inch by roughly 7 inches and cut it out, using a steel ruler and knife to help you get a straight edge. You may want to simply score it with the ruler and continue cutting with scissors.

Cut two slits, leaving about 1/2 inch give or take at the ends. Make sure each section you create is precise so your braid comes out right.

How to make the bracelet

1. Attach a crimp to one end of the leather.
2. Start braiding. Place the right strip over the middle.
3. Then the left over the new middle.
4. Thread the end through the gap and straighten it. It'll be twisted but that's fine - you're undoing that in the next round.
5. Go right over middle and left over middle. Now thread the end through the gap again to untangle. As you go along, you're making your braid a bit tighter than you want it to be so that you can thread through at the end. It should be pretty clear where you need to thread as you work. Do 3 rounds.
6. When you're happy with the bracelet, loosen your braid and spread it out evenly across the bracelet.
7. Attach your second ribbon crimp to the end, as well as one side of your clasp. If you prefer, you can use snaps at the ends.
8. Attach the other clasp to your starter crimp. To make the longer braid that looks more like a few interconnected strands, simply stop after one rounds (two braid-over - thread throughs).

Notes

You've successfully learned how to make a magic leather braid bracelet - and I hope you enjoyed!

If the tutorial didn't feel obvious to you, don't worry! This is one of those projects that almost teaches itself once you "get" the idea - you'll see that it's clear where you need to thread the end. And you can play around a little with different variations on this method.

How to braid exactly depends so much on the width of your bracelet, each portion, the length. Play around with braid 3 and braid 2 versions. You don't damage the materials as you play!

Recommended Products

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  How to Make Jewelry Out of Anything: A Complete Out-of-the-Box Jewelry Making Guide for Teens and Teens-at-Heart!

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The post Magic Leather Braid Bracelet Tutorial appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

When I was headed to my sister for an extended weekend/holiday, I realized I’d love to give her a nice gift a few hours before we needed to leave – when I still had to finish packing. I had something for the kids and helped with food prep, but wanted something for her.

I decided to pull out some faux leather and make napkin rings! They make fabulous napkin rings that don’t take longer than half an hour to pull together and can be made in batches!

These leather napkin rings can be made with faux leather or genuine. They can be made in rustic shades with textured leather and dark snaps. You can glam them up by using pink metallic leather and gold snaps.

If you’d like, you can round the edge around the snap that shows. That’ll take a bit of extra time but gives it a bit more style. I did that on my sister’s but skipped it on mine as the leather on mine was too thick.

My absolute favorite thing about these leather napkin rings? They store flat!

They legit take up almost no space! I could have used brad fasteners or something along those lines… but I chose snaps because you can open and close them and store them very efficiently between uses.

I made my sister’s set using 4 inch leather strips for paper (or very fine) napkins.

For mine, I used 6 inches for thick cloth napkins.

When you’re done, you may want to make a set for every occasion! I made my first as service for eight and now I’m thinking I need service for twelve in a different color…

What you need to make these

• Leather of faux leather sheets (1×6 inches for each ring)
• Self-healing mat
• Ruler
• Craft knife or other leather cutting tool
• Leather hole punch
• Leather snaps
• Leather snap setting kit
• Hammer

How to make leather napkin rings

1. Cut a strip of leather 1 inch thick by six inches long.

2. Punch a hole roughly 3/4-1 cm from the edge of your strip, centered.

3. Roll your strip into a ring to measure placement of the second hole. It should be the same distance from the other end, also centered. (Measuring it allows for a bit of room for error in placing the center.

If you’d like, at this point, you can round off the edge of your napkin ring that’ll have the pretty snap.

4. Set the female side of your snap. Take the portion with the smooth or decorative outer “button” and the side that the other side goes into. Place the pretty part on the front of your leather as that’s what will show.

Set your snap. Place the strip of leather on the base so that the flat top of the snap (the pretty part) is face down. Place the tool that fits in the center of that snap in the center, hold straight, and hammer down in quick, firm motions until it feels secure.

5. Now set the male side.

The functional part – the one that goes into the other side – needs to be on the pretty side of the leather. Thread the back through the hole and place that on top.

Place it on the circular base. Take the tool that has a little indentation that can fit around the part of your snap that sticks out. Place it on top and once again, hammer in quick, firm motions until secure.

Test your leather napkin ring for strength and fix your snap if needed. You’re all done and ready to set a beautiful table!

A few months ago I shared with you some DIY leather bookmarks in which I told you about a pilot program I’m participating in. I’m so thrilled to be one of Google’s paid early testers for their Thank with Google pilot program. This is an experimental feature that allows you to purchase a virtual sticker and directly show your appreciation for the ideas you love on my website. As a loyal supporter, this is an easy way to engage and give feedback on the ideas you love.

There are a variety of stickers to select from, ranging from free and up, and every time you send a paid sticker, you can add a personal message. I love receiving your personal messages – it shows me who that human at the other end is that is reading my post. For me, these virtual stickers also translate into direct revenue to support the work that goes into the crafts that you are enjoying on my blog.

You can find the Thank with Google feature in multiple places on my site, including my sidebar, and the beginning and end of every blog post. If you try it out, let me know what you think! Thanks as always for your support.

The post Leather Napkin Rings – An Easy DIY appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Making DIY leather bookmarks is a great way to bust that scrap stash! I don’t know about you but I always have scraps lying around, and bookmarks are the kind of thing that you can never have too many of. They always go missing. Plus, cute bookmarks just make you want to pick up that book!

These come together in minutes. If you have nice leather scraps, why get fussy with what you make with them? Craft something simple and elegant. And as a bonus, these make fabulous Mother’s Day and Father’s Day that anyone can craft – from big kid through adult.

My best tip would be to choose a good, firm piece of leather scrap (faux leather is fantastic too) that isn’t too thick. Add a tassel – either handmade or purchased – for the perfect finishing touch. And if you have larger scraps, you can double your DIY leather bookmarks by making it long enough to stick out of both sides of the book, with a tassel at each end!

What you need to make bookmarks from leather scraps

• Leather or faux leather scraps
• Good scissors or knife
• Ruler
• .75-1 inch ribbon crimps
• Chain nose pliers
• Tassels
• Jump ring

How to make DIY leather bookmarks in minutes

1. Cut your leather scraps to size. You can make them very long to fit through the whole book or just a few inches. Make sure the width is identical to, or just narrower than your ribbon crimps.

2. Place the end into a ribbon crimp. Start by squishing one side closed with your pliers.

Complete the crimping by squishing the other end with the pliers too, as well as the center.

If you’re making one that goes through the whole book, add a ribbon crimp to the other end as well. If not, it’ll keep your book nicer if you leave it off.

3. Add your tassel. To do this, just open a jumpring and thread it through the hole on the ribbon crimp and the hole on the tassel. Close it well.

Your DIY leather bookmarks are complete! Who will you be making these for? Comment below!

Check out the Pilot Thank with Google Feature!

I’m thrilled to share with you that I am one of Google’s paid early testers for their Thank with Google pilot program. Thank with Google is an experimental feature that allows you to purchase a virtual sticker and directly show your appreciation for the ideas that I share. As a loyal supporter, you can now provide feedback in a way that is meaningful and shows me what type of content to create more of.

There are different options for stickers to choose from, both free and paid, and every time you send a paid sticker, you can add a personal message. I absolutely love receiving personal messages from you! In addition, these virtual stickers translate into direct revenue to support the work that goes into the ideas that you are enjoying.

You can find the Thank with Google feature in multiple places on my site, including in my sidebar. You can choose to send it publicly or anonymously. If you try it out, let me know what you think!

Thanks as always for your support.

The post DIY Leather Bookmarks in minutes! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.

Some of my favorite things to make are things to make with leather scraps. Leather can be quite pricey, and not only do you not want to waste a teensy bit, you also might not want to buy full size pieces to begin with.

Enter leather scrap bundles… I just adore these. They include so many unique finds!!

Where to get leather scraps for crafts

Maybe you have piles of leftover leather from projects… but of all the crafts out there, leather scrap crafters tend to buy their sraps.

So where do you get affordable leather for crafting? Here are a few of my favorite picks. Keep in mind that these are mostly scrap bundles, so they vary greatly and I can only share my personal experiences trying these:

• Blick Art Supplies – this is one of my favorite leather scrap bundles for jewelry making especially. There were more small scraps in this one, but some with incredibly unique textures and colors.
• Michaels – I find that these tend to have mostly blacks and browns (though I’m not guaranteeing that at all! This is just my experience from what I’ve purchased). I sometimes get a few nice sheets of other colors. I also have gotten slightly larger pieces – just barely enough to make things like luggage tags, credit card wallets, etc.
• Etsy – many leather crafters will sell off their scraps. I’d definitely recommend looking into the listing description closely, as some will show a huge box with all their scraps rather than what you’re getting. Don’t rely only on the images.
• Ebay – is similar but maybe a bit more commercialized. I’ve seen lots of upholstery leather scraps there (which are also great for crafting).
• Cricut – Finally, while these are not quite scraps, they are more affordable pieces of small batch leather that’s great for these crafts to make with leather scraps, and for when you’re looking to save. Mostly available in 12×12 sheets, these are perfect for your Cricut crafts, but also great for others. They’re fantastic for when you’re trying to fill a shop with small leather projects you can repeat accurately.

Things to Make with Leather Scraps

Leather Jewelry Crafts

Jewelry is my go-to for any kind of scrap busting projects, but especially leather jewelry looks so chic!

DIY Leather Earrings

Your smallest scraps will look fantastic on leather earrings! You can really use itty bitty scraps for these, engrave them, paint them, iron onto them, or just keep them as is. The post linked above has LOADS of ideas, so head on over and check it out!

Woven Leather Bracelet

These woven leather bracelets are so easy to assemble and have gotten me loads of compliments! These are ideal for those longer strips of scraps. You can even use thin ribbons that are too small to run through a cutting machine for the center part if you want.

DIY Leather Hoop Earrings

What do you do when you see some cool bling but you’re not about to dish out $$ for it? If you’re a crafter, you make it! I saw these online, but decided to go the DIY route. Using a scrap of leather with a super cool texture really upped the chic factor.

DIY Leather Dangle Earrings

When my brother first saw them he said “cool, taco earrings!” What a brotherly thing to say! Either way, I loved them to death back when I made them. No cutting machine is required for these either.

Leather Bow Cuff Bracelet

A leather bow cuff acts as an accessory more than bling, but it’s really really pretty! You’ll need a slightly larger scrap – but still a scrap! You’ll also do best with soft garment leather, rather than stiffer leather (I’ve gotten a mix in the scrap packs I bought).

Magic Leather Braid Bracelet

The braid on this bracelet comes together magically so that the ends remain connected! It’s so much fun to make, you’ll want one in every color to match your wardrobe.

Leather Accessory Crafts

Go beyond jewelry with some super cool, super giftable accessories made from scraps! Many of these were gifts and some were also made from faux leather, but you can definitely try each and every craft in this section using real leather scraps.

DIY Leather Keychain

There’s nothing like personalization for gift giving! WE made these from faux leather for lots of M’s friends as drive-by birthday gifts. Then when Daddy’s birthday came around the boys said “we need to make him a keychain!” So we made his from real leather scraps for him.

DIY Glasses Case

Carry your shades (or regular glasses) in style! If you have a piece large enough – which many scrap packs do come with – you can give this adorable glasses case a go! lt’s super slim too, making it easy to toss into a handbag. Or, gift it! It’s easy to get right the first time with a free template.

DIY Flower Hair Accessories

These flower hair ties were made for my nieces as gifts, using faux leather. But there’s no reason you can’t make them from those pretty scraps in your stash. I even used leather rivets to put these together.

Crochet & Leather Bow

I love contrasting textures, and there’s something cool about cozy crochet and cool leather combined in one project. This is another hand cut project that can use your smallest scraps.

Ribbon & Leather Hair Bow

Here, I treated small leather strips as ribbon to make cool hair bows for Princess A. Again, I contrasted chic, shiny leather with softer lace.

Leather Pencil Cap

A sweet gift for the men in your life, these pencil caps are great for that guy who always has one sticking out of his front pocket. Let it look a little classier!

DIY Leather Cufflinks

Take your smallest scraps and turn them into an incredibly cool personalized gift! These monogrammed cufflinks can be made with literally any type of leather scrap (although some types of leather take better to stamping than others).

Leather Trimmed Scarf

Projects like this that use leather strips are cool, because they’re really easy to hand cut. Just use a knife and steel ruler to keep you on the straight-and-narrow. Here, it once again contrasts with something that’s a bit more of a “cozy” look for an incredible textured effect. This cowl scarf is totally unisex too!

DIY Leather Coin Pouch

This coin purse is incredibly simple and brilliant and so so fun to carry! It’s a cute idea for those of us who still always need a stash of quarters for parking.

Leather Crafts for the Home

I am obsessed with leather in the home! I’m a big fan of texture over prints when it comes to home decorating, and leather just oozes that texture – whether in large scale uphostery, or small things to make with leather scraps like these.

Leather Plant Label

What a cool way to both label plant pots and upgrade them!

Leather Valet Tray

One of the cool things about making this leather valet tray from scraps is that its size is not an exact science, so you can customize it to the size of your scrap! It’s great as a key/sunglasses drop zone in entryways, a ring tray, or a valet tray.

DIY Leather Drawer Pulls

While I’ve seen this look in kitchens too, leather scraps work best on smaller projects. So give that dresser upgrade a fashion-forward twist with leather pulls! And since you’re using scraps, they likely don’t even cost more than real pulls would cost (and possibly much less).

What are your favorite things to make with leather scraps? Comment below!

The post Things to Make With Leather Scraps: Home, Jewelry, Accessories, and more! appeared first on Moms and Crafters.